I  ^l^ZA.^^"^'^^-^ 


^     y      ^  y  /^    I ,  ^^  ,. 


ROCKY    MOUNTAIN 

ADVENTURES, 

BRISTLING    WITH    ANIMATED    DETAILS    OP 

FEARFUL  FIGHTS  OF  AMERICAN   HUNTERS  WITH 

SAVAGE  INDIANS,  MEXICAN  RANCHEROS, 

AND  BEASTS  OF  PREY. 

GIVIN©    TKUTHFUL    ACCOUNTS    OP    THE 

AWFUL  FATE   OF    HUNDREDS   OF    OVERLAND   EMI- 
GRANTS   AMID   THE   SNOW-DRIFTS   OF    THE 
TRUCKEE    PEAKS, 

FKOM    WHENCE 

HALF-FEOZEX    MEN,     WOMEX     AND      CHILDREN      WEEE 
CAURIED    OVER    SLIPPERY    CLIFFS,    LASHED 
TO  THE  BACKS    OF    THEIR    GAL- 
LANT  RESCUERS. 

By  Edwin  Bryant. 

TO    WHICH    IS    ADDED    A    PULL    ACCOUN.T    OP 

THE   BEAR   CONQUEST   OF  CALIFORNIA. 

BV    A    HANDFUL    OF   AMERICAN     ADVENTURERS,     WHO 

LEVELLED    THE    WAY    FOR    THE     TRIUMPHS     OF    STOCKMON    AND 

FREMONT,    AND    THE 

GLORIOUS  AND  GLITTERING  DAYS  OF  '48  AND  '49, 


NEW  YORK 

HURST    &    CO.,    PUBLISHERS. 


LIBRARY 

UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNK 

SANTA  BARBARA 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Leave  Louisville — Independence,  Mo. — New-Mexicai.  teamsters — Outfit- 
ting— Masonic  celebration — Improbable  rumors — Mormons — Indiana — 
Marvellous  stories, P^go  13 

CHAPTER  II. 

Aj>^<v;f^rance  of  the  country — Vexatious  difficulties  of  starting — First  camp 
— '"lotent  thunder-storm — Four-footed  tragedian — First  view  of  the  prai- 
riei — Soil — Flowers — Emigrant  camp — Frontier  family — Thunder-storm 
on  the  prairie — Lodgings  on  the  frontier — More  of  the  Mormons — Rain- 
bow on  the  prairies — Indian  Creek — Place  of  organization — Straying  of 
CG '*,!'■  and  horses — Election  on  the  prairies — Shawnee  Indians, 19 

CHAPTER  HI. 

Leave  Indian  Creek — "  Catching  up" — A  corral — Droves  of  mules  from 
New  Mexico — Santa  F^  traders  returning — Dismal  accounts  of  the  jour- 
ney— Leave  the  Santa  Fe  trail — VVjId  onions — Difficult  crossings — Pot- 
awattomie  Indian — Ex-governor  Boggs  and  other  emigrants  come  uf — 
Reasons  assigned  for  emigration — Solitude  of  the  prairies — More  Ir.dians 
— First  news  of  war  with  Mexico — signs  of  dissolution  of  the  party — An 
adventure  almost — Extreme  heat — SuSerings  of  cattle — Division — Kan- 
sas River — A  luxury  in  the  wilderness — New-comers — Rumors  of  war 
confirmed, 32 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Methodist  Mission  on  the  Kansas — Soldier  Creek — Lustration — A  ruined 
Indian  town — A  rose  in  the  wihlemees — Another  division — Kansas 
Indian  towns — Ki-he-ga-.ca-chuck-ee — Prairie  potato — Mountain  trap- 
pers— Beauty  of  scenery  and  fertility  of  soil — Vermilion  Creek — Brilliant 
meteor — Big  Blue  River — Prairie-pea — Legislation  on  the  prairies, ...  45 

CHAPTER  V. 

Terrible  storm — More  legislation — Alcove  spring — Honey — A  death  and 
funeral — Boat-launch — Blue  River  Rover — Soil  and  scenery  along  the 
Blue — Fresh  graves — Pawnee  country — Quarrels  in  camp — Withdrawal 
of  the  Oregon  emigrants — Indian  hunters — Indian  appetites — More  fight- 
ing— Antelopes — False  buffalo-chase — Blacksmithing  on  the  plains,      60 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Sickness  among  the  emigrants — Effects  of  travel  and  exposure  upon  the 
appearance  and  habits  of  our  party — Method  of  travel — The  Little  Blue 
River — Change  in  the  soil — A  break-down — Platte  River — Soil  of  the 
Flatte  bottom— Uuman  bones — Bufi:alo  bouea— Fost-offices — Islands  of 


O  CONTEKTf. 

the  Platte — Boio  de  Vache — Mackinaw  boat*-— Prairie-dog  town — ^Roeky 
Mountain  hunters,  and  boatmen — The  bluffs  of  the  Platte — Immense 
fungi — First  buffaloes^Men  in  search  of  a  doctor — Disposition  among 
emigrants  to  take  large  doses  of  medicine — Effects  often  fatal — Barbarous 
aortrical  operation — Distressing  scene — Funeral — Wedding — Birth, ...  74 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Country  becomes  more  arid  and  sterile — Return  party  from  Oregon — 
Herds  of  buffalo — Dead  oxen — Chalybeate  spring  at  the  ford  of  the 
Platte — Killiug  buffaloes — Buffalo  meat — Resignation  of  Colonel  Rus- 
sell and  other  officers — Determination  to  change  our  mode  of  travel — 
Ash  Hollow — General  post-office — Grave  opened  by  wolves — Chimney 
Rock  in  the  distance — Court-House  Rock — Foetid  water  and  tainted 
atmosphere — Quicksands — Near  view  of  Court-House  Rock — A.  r.ir.n 
in  a  fright — Near  view  of  Chimney  Rock — Scenery  at  Chimney  }*..'>o k 
— Horse-trading — Furious  storm — Scott's  Bluff — First  view  of  Ro^k"- 
Mountains — Horse  Creek — Fort  Bernard — Fort  Laramie — Siorx  fn- 
dians — Beauty  of  the  Sioux  women — Sioux  Lodges, ?9 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Procession  of  the  Sioux — Purchase  of  mules — Extreme  high  prices  for  cof- 
fee, sugar,  tobacco,  flour,  etc. — Shooting-match  with  the  Sioux  Indians 
— A  return  party  from  California — Denunciaiion  of  the  country  by  them 
— Resume  the  journey  on  pack-mules — Vexations  of  mule-packing — 
Caiion  of  the  Platte — First  appearance  of  wild  sage— View  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains — Another  Oregon  return  party — Swarms  of  crickets — An  ex- 
tinct volcano — Green  peas — A  good  supper — Frost  in  the  mountains — 
Effects  of  earthquakes — Hunters  and  trappers:  their  numbers,  habits,  etc. 
— Celebration  of  the  4th  of  July — Gnats  and  mosquitoes — Joined  by  Mr. 
Buchanan — Alkaline  lakes — Impure  water,  its  effects — Sweet-water 
Mountains, HI 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Independence  Rock — Sweetwater  River — Devil's  Gate — A  solitary  traveller 
— Distant  view  of  Wind  River  Mountains — Chalky  Lakes — Deleterioi;8 
effects  of  milk — Sickness  in  emigratinsr  parties — Another  return  party  from 
California — Buffalo-chase — Mortality  among  the  oxen  of  the  emigrants — 
Wolves  in  chase  of  diseased  oxen — South  Pass  of  the  Rocky  Mountains — 
Pacific  Springs — Last  view  of  the  Atlantic  slope — Jacob's  Tower — Little 
Sandy  River — Troublesome  visiters — The  Mirage — Big  Sandy  River — 
Greenwood's  Cutofl^— Curious  incident — Snake  Indian  hunting-party,   125 

CHAPTER  X. 

Sreen  River — Terrific  storm — Desolate  scenery — Black's  Fork — Rainbow 
bluffs — lif-marhahle  butte — Arrival  at  Fort  Bridgor — Messrs.  Hastings 
and  Hnd.spetli — 'I'raders  and  lrap|)orB  from  Taos — Capt.  Walker — Culifor- 
uian  liorsiH — Snow  showMrs  «ii  llie  mountains — Resume  our  march  by  the 
new  route  via  the  (Vreat  Salt  Lake — Cold  weather — Ice  in  July — Bear 
Btrer — Ditlicult  puBuage  Uirougb  tiie  muuntaius — Elephant  statue,     138 


eoKTMwn  7 

CHAPTER  XI. 

More  extreme  cold  weather — Ogden's  Hole — Utah  Indiane — Weber  Rivet 
—Canons— Indian  visiters — Disgusting  practice — Great  fires  in  the  moun- 
tains— First  view  of  the  great  Salt  Lake — Salmon-trout — Great  Salt 
Lake— A  sunset  on  the  lake — Broke  my  thermometer — Indian  chase — 
Warm  sulphur  springs — More  Indian  visiters — Indian  fruit-cake — Grass- 
hopper jam — Mode  of  taking  grasshoppers  by  the  Indians, ..   150 

CHAPTER  XIl. 

Utah  Outlet  and  Lake — Enter  the  desert — Utah  language — CoL  Russell's 
niue-ehooter — Digger  Indians — Utter  sterility, 163 

CHAPTER  Xin. 

Mt.rcii  -vej  the  g.eal  Salt  Desert — Preparations — Singular  illusion — Volcanic 
debTS — Distant  view  of  the  great  Salt  Plain — Utter  desolation — The  mi- 
rage— Gigantic  phantoms — Fata  Morgana — Spectral  army — Tempest  on 
the  Salt  Plain — Clouds  of  salt — Instinct  of  mules — Mule-race — Excessive 
thirst — Arrival  at  oasi<?.  ind  spring — Buchanan's  well, 169 

CHAPTER  XIV, 

The  oasis — Anxiety  respecting  our  animals — Prodigious  tall  grass — Deserted 
Indian  huts — Old  trail  of  lost  wagons — Desert  valley — Extinct  volcanoes 
— Mountain  spring— Elevated  camp — Vast  extent  of  the  Salt  Plain — Sub- 
limity of  scenery — Moonlight  \iew — Sunrise — Indian  picket  or  game-trap 
— Another  oasis — Altercation — Extreme  heat  of  the  sun — Wells  in  the  des- 
ert— More  desert  valleys — Stream  of  running  water — View  of  Mary's 
River,  and  valley — Indian  signal-fires, 182 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Mary's  river  Indians — Their  fleetness — Maiy's  river — Unexpected  and 
singular  meeting — Applegate's  exploring  party  from  Oregon — Energy 
of  the  emigrant  population  on  the  Pacific — More  Indian  visiters — Large 
herds  of  antelopes — Flora  of  Mary's  river — A  merry  Indian — Indian 
fish-trap — Extensive  boiling  springs — Rain  in  the  desert — Large  body  of 
Indians — Indian  foot-race  with  our  mules 194 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Refreshing  rain — Dense  smoky  vapor — Scarcity  of  provisions — Horses 
giving  out^ — Dismal  journey — Soup  of  fresh-water  shellfish — Agreeable 
meeting — Obtain  a  supply  of  provisions — Merry  Digger  Indian  visiters 
— An  Indian  coil — Petrifactions — Sink  of  Mary's  river — Bitter  watera 
— The  desert  between  Mary's  and  Truckee  river — Toilsome  march — 
Unexpected  refreshment — Remarkable  boiling  springs, 206 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Mjt'  ,-.' — Phantom  cataract — Signs  of  water — Truckee  river — Insanity  pro- 
liuceJ  by  apprehension  and  excitemeiW  -Enter  the  California  moun< 
toil'' — Mountain  forests — Mountain  valley — Truckee  river  Indians- 
Cold  nights — Mountain  lake — Origin  of  the  name  of  Truckee  river  and 
Imke— Scenery  of  the  Sierra  Nevada — Log-cabin  erected  by  enugranti  i| 


o  CONTENTS. 

distress — Mountain  raspberry — Pass  of  the  Sierra — Uber  valley — Spiing 
in  August — An  attack  by  hornets — Beautiful  encampment — Human 
BkuU 218 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 
Bear  Valley — Provisions  exhausted — California  quail — Manzanita — The 
pine-nut — Deep  hollow — Evergreen  oak — First  view  of  the  Sacramento 
valley — A  body  of  California  Indians — Live-oak  acorns — Arrive  at  John- 
son's— Indian  dandy — Cheering  and  astonishing  news  from  Mexico^ 
Obtain  food — A  Californian  newspaper, 234 

CHAPTER  XIX. 
Soil  of  Johnson's  rancho — His  crops — Price  of  flour — Soil  of  the  Sacra- 
mento   valley — Sinclair's    rancho — A  white    woman — Sutter's    Fort — 
New  Helvetia — Interview  with  Captain  Sutter — Reflections  upon  our 
journey — Table  of  distances  from  Independence  to  San  Francisco,  ...244 

CHAPTER  XX. 
Account  of  the  disasters  to  the  emigrating  parties  of  1846 — The  Oregon  emi- 
grants— Causes  of  delay  which  resulted  in  fatal  consequences — Generosity 
of  the  people  of  San  Francisco,  and  Capt.  Sutter — John  Sinclair's  state- 
ment— Dreadful  sutFeriugs  of  the  first  party  who  crossed  on  the  snows — 
George  McKiustry's  statement — Journal  of  one  of  the  sufferers — List  of 
those  who  perished — Particulars  of  the  death  of  George  Donner  and  wife 
— Keysburg's  cannibalism — Interment  of  the  bones  by  Gen.  Kearny's 
party  in  June,  1847, 249 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

California  Indians — Captain  Sutter — Difficulties  in  making  his  first  settle- 
ment in  California — Laboring  Indians — Propensity  for  gambling — Cap- 
tain Sutter's  coin — Account  of  their  games — Food  of  the  Indians — Cap- 
tain Sutter's  wheat  crops  in  1846 — Scarcity  of  flouring-mills — Water- 
power — Hemp — Dine  with  Captain  Sutter;  description  of  the  dinner — 
Oppressive  impost-duties  of  the  Mexican  government — Indian  rancherias 
— Indian  orgies — Sacramento  river — Salmon — New  Helvetia — Indian 
sweat-liouse — Reported  Indian  invasion  by  the  Walla- Wallas — Descrip- 
tion of  the  Walla-Wallas, 265 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

Geographical  sketch  of  California — Its  political  and  social  institutions — 
Colorado  river — Valley  and  river  of  San  Joaquin — Forraor  government — 
Presidios — Missions — Ports  and  commerce, 275 

CHAPTER  XXin. 
Leave  .San  Francisco  for  Sonoma — Sonoma  creek — "  Boar  men" — Islands 
in  the  bay- -Liberality  of  Uncle  Sam  to  sailors — Sonoma — Beautiful  coun- 
try— General  Valldjo — Softora  Vall6jo — Thomas  O.  Larkin,  U.  S.  Con- 
sul— SiguH  of  rain — The  seasons  in  California — More  warlike  rumore 
from  the  south — Mission  of  Sun  Rafael — An  Irish  ranchero — Sausolito — 
Return  to  Sau  P'ranciaco— Moot  Lippincott — Discomfort  of  Culifomian 
bowea, 386 


CONTENTS.  " 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Resume  my  travels — Leave  New  Helvetia  for  San  Francisco— Cos^umne 
river — Mick^lemes  river — Ford  of  the  San  Joaquin — Extensive  plain — 
Tule  marshes — Large  droves  of  wild  horses  anc  elk — Arrive  at  Dr. 
Marsh's — Vineyard — Californiau  grape — Californiau  wine — Aguardiente 
— Mormon  settlements  on  the  San  Joaquin — Califomian  beef — 
Cattle — Grasses  of  California — Horses — Breakfast — Leave  Dr.  Marsh's 
— Arrive  at  Mr.  Livermore's — Comforts  of  his  dwelling — Large  herds  of 
cattle — Sheep — Swine — Californian  senora — Slaughtering  of  a  bullock 
— Fossil  oyster-shells — Skeleton  of  a  whale  on  a  high  mountain — Arrive 
at  mission  of  San  Jos6 — Ruinous  and  desolate  appearance  of  the  mission 
— Pedlers — Landlady — Filth — Gardens  of  the  mission — Fruit  orchards — 
Empty  warehouses  and  workshops — Foul  lodgings, 299 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

Armies  of  fleas — Leave  the  mission — Clover — Wild  mustard — A  carreta— • 
Family  travelling — Arrive  at  Pueblo  de  San  Josi — Capt.  Fisher — De- 
scription of  the  Pueblo — The  embarcadero — Beautiful  and  fertile  valley 
of  the  Pueblo — Absence  of  architectural  taste  in  California — Town  squir- 
rels — Fruit  garden — Grapes — Tropical  fruits — Gaming  rooms — Contrast 
between  Californian  and  American  gamesters — Leave  San  Jos^ — 
Beautiful  avenue — Mission  of  Santa  Clara — Rich  but  neglected  lands — 
Effects  of  a  bad  government — A  senora  on  the  road-side — Kindness  of 
Californian  women — Fast  riding — Cruel  treatment  of  horses — Arrive  at 
the  mission  of  San  Francisco — A  poor  but  hospitable  family — Arrive  at 
the  town  of  San  Francisco — W.  A.  Leidesdorff,  Esq.,  American  vice- 
consul — First  view  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco^Muchachos  and  Mu- 
chactis — Capt.  Montgomery — U.  S.  sloop-of-war  Portsmouth — Town  of 
San  Francisco ;  its  situation,  appearance,  population — Commerce  of 
California— Extortion  of  the  government  and  traders,  313 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Climate  of  San  Francisco — Periodical  winds — Dine  on  the  Portsmouth — 
A  8upp<*r  party  on  shore — Arrival  of  Commodore  Stockton  at  San  Fran- 
cwjo— Rumors  of  rebellion  from  the  south — Californian  court — Trial  by 
jury — Fandango — Californian  belles — American  pioneers  of  the  Pacific 
— icjeception  of  Commodore  Stockton — Sitga — Captain  Fremont  leaves 
Stii  Francisco  for  the  south — Offer  our  serviies  as  volunteeis, 325 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 

Sketch  of  the  Bear  revolution,  and  first  conquest  of  California  by  the 
American  troops — Capture  of  Lieut-  Dp  Atc6 — Capture  of  Sonoma,  by 
Capt.  Merritt  and  party,  on  the  14th  of  July — Proclamation  of  William 
B.  Ide — Barbarous  and  brutal  murder  of  Cowie  and  Fowler — Four 
fingered  Jack — Capt.  Ford's  engagement  with  the  Califomians  ;  defeat 
of  the  latter — Flight  of  De  la  Torre — Proclamations  of  Castro- — Capt 
Fremont  joins  the  revolutionists  at  Sonoma,  on  the  25th  of  July — Com- 
modore Sloat's  arrival  in  California — Raising  of  the  U.  S.  flag  at  Monterey- 
San  Francisco,  Sonoma,  and  other  nlaces — Proclamation  of  Com.  Sloa> 


10  CONTENTS. 

— Capt  Fremont  occupies  San  Juan — Castro  retreats  to  the  South — Los 
Angeles  captured  by  Com.  Stockton — Com.  Stockton's  proclamation,  333 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

Boat  trip  up  the  bay  and  the  Sacramento  to  New  Helvetia — An  appeal  to 
the  alcalde — Kanackas — Straits  of  San  Pueblo  and  Pedro — Straits  of 
Carquinez — Town  of  Francisca — Feather-beds  furnished  by  nature — 
Mouth  of  the  Sacramento — Islands — Delaware  Tom — A  man  who  has 
forgotten  his  mother  tongue — Salmon  of  the  Sacramento — Indian  fisher- 
men— Arrive  at  New  Helvetia,  340 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Disastrous  news  from  the  south — Return  of  Colonel  Fremont  to  Monterey — 
Call  for  volunteers — Volunteer  our  services — Leave  New  Helvetia — 
Swinmiing  the  Sacramento — First  fall  of  rain — Beautiful  and  romantic 
valley — Precipitous  mountains — Deserted  house — Arable  land  of  Cali- 
fornia— Fattening  qualities  of  the  acorn — Lost  in  the  Coast  Mountains — 
Strange  Indians — Indian  women  gathering  grass-seed  for  bread — Indian 
guide — Laguna — Rough  dialogue — Hunters'  camp — "  Old  Greenwood" — 
Grisly  bear  meat — Greenwood's  account  of  himself — His  opinion  of  the 
Indians  and  Spaniards — Retrace  our  steps — Severe  storm — Nappa  valley 
— Arrive  at  Sonoma — More  rain — Arrive  at  San  Francisco — Return  to 
New  Helvetia, 346 

CHAPTER  XXX. 

Leave  New  Helvetia — Pleasant  weather — Meet  Indian  volunteers — Tule- 
boats — Engagement  between  a  party  of  Americans  and  Californians — 
Death  of  Capt.  Burroughs  and  Capt.  Fo.ster — Capture  of  Thomas  O.  Lar- 
kin — Reconnaissance — San  Juan  Bautista — Neglect  of  the  dead — Large 
herds  of  cattle — Join  Col.  Fremont, 358 

CHAPTER  XXXI. 

California  battalion — Their  appearance,  and  costume — List  of  the  ofiicers 
— Commence  our  march  to  Los  Angeles — Appearance  of  the  country  in 
the  vicinity  of  San  Juan — Slaughter  of  beeves — Astonishing  consumption 
of  beef  by  the  men — Beautiful  morning — Ice — Salinas  river  and   ''alley 

'  — Califoruian  prisoners — Horses  giving  out  from  fatigue — Mission  <  ■"  San 
Miguel — Sheep — Mutton — March  on  foot — More  prisoners  taken — Death 
of  Mr.  Stanley — An  execution — Dark  night — Capture  of  the  mission  of 
San  Luis  Obispo — Orderly  conduct  and  good  deportment  of  the  Califor- 
nia battalion, 365 

CHAPTER  XXXII. 

Tremendous  rain — Mission  of  San  Luis  Obispo — Gardens — Various  fruits — 
Farm — Cactus  Tuna — Calinche — Pumpkins — Trial  of  Tortoria  Pico^ 
Procession  of  women — Pico's  |)ardon — Leave  San  Luis — Surf  of  the  Pa- 
cific— Captain  Dana — Tem|)csluous  night — Mission  of  St.  Yues — EfTecta 
of  drought — Morses  cxhau.slcd — St.  Yncs  mountain — View  of  the  plain 
of  Uouta  Barbara  and  the  Pacific — A  wretched  Christmas-day — DeacoB' 


CONTENTS.  11 

of  St.  Ynes  mountain — Terrible  storm — Fightful  destruction  of  horses — 
Dark  niglit — What  we  are  fighting  for — Airive  at  Santa  Barbara — Town 
detserted, 375 

CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

Santa  Barbara — Picturesque  situation — Fertility  of  the  country — Climate— 
Population — Society — Leave  Santa  Barbara — Rincon — Grampus — Mis- 
sion of  St.  Buenaventura — Fine  gardens — Meet  a  party  of  mounted  Cali- 
fornians — They  retreat  before  us — Abundance  of  maize — Arrival  of 
couriers  from  Com.  Stockton — EtFects  of  war  upon  the  country — More 
of  the  enemy  in  sigiit — News  of  the  capture  of  Los  Angeles,  by  Gen. 
Kearnj'  and  Com.  Stockton — Mission  of  San  Fernando — The  Maguey- 
Capitulation  of  the  Californians — Arrive  at  Los  Angeles — General  re- 
flections upon  the  march — Meet  with  old  acquaintances, 3B4 

CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

S^llitarf  operatJc.ns  of  General  Kearny  and  Commodore  Stockton — Their 
TAOonc  to  :he  S'scretaries  of  War  and  Navy — Battles  of  San  Pasqual  and 
San  uabriel, 394 

CHAPTER  XXXV. 

City  of  Angels — Gardens-  Vineyards — Produce  of  the  vine  in  California — 
General  products  of  the  country — Reputed  personal  charms  of  the  fe- 
males of  Los  Angeles — San  Diego — Gold  and  quicksilver  mines — Lower 
California — Bituminous  springs — Wines — A  Kentuckian  among  the  an- 
gels— Missions  of  San  Gabriel  and  San  Luis  Rey — Gen.  Kearny  and 
Com.  Stockton  leave  for  San  Diego — Col.  Fremont  appointed  Governor 
of  California  by  Com.  Stockton — Com.  Shubrick's  general  order — lusur- 
rection  in  the  northern  part  of  California  suppressed — Arrival  of  Col. 
Cook  at  San  D'ego, 405 

CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

L6<»ve  L'x,  Angeles  for  San  Francisco — Don  Andres  Pico — A  Californian 
reium'.ng  from  the  wars — Domestic  life  at  a  rancho — Women  in  favor  of 
peace — Hospitable  treatment — Fandango — Singular  custom — Arrive  at 
oantt.  Barbara — Lost  in  a  fog — Valley  of  the  Salinas — Californians  want- 
iaor  YirJte'*  wives — High  waters — Arrive  at  San  Francisco, 417 

CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

Progress  of  the  town  of  San  Francisco — Capt.  Dupont — Gen.  Kearny — 
The  presidio — Appointed  Alcalde — Gen.  Kearny's  proclamation — Arri- 
val of  Col.  Stevenson's  regiment — Horse-thief  Indians — Administration 
of  justice  in  Crvlifomia — Sale  of  lots  in  San  Francisco, 427 

CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 

First  settlement  of  the  missionar  es — Population — Characteristics  of  white 
population — Employments — Pleasures  and  amusements — Position  of  wo- 
men— Soil-  Grasses — Vegetable  productions — Agriculture— Fruits — Cat- 
l»— Horses — Wild    animals — Minerals — Ciunat» — Flora 

«4] 


ROCKY  MOUNTAIN  ADVENTURES. 


CHAPTER  I. 

INTRODUCTION. 

Leave  Louisville — Independence,  Mo. — New-Mexican  teamsters — Outhi 
ting — Masonic  celebration — Improbable  rumors — Mormons- —ludiaiie^ 
Marvellous  stories. 

With  my  travelling  companions  for  a  journey  over  the  Rockj 
Mountains  to  California,  (Mr.  R.  T.  Jacob  and  Mr.  R.  Ewing,) 
I  left  Louisville,  Ky.,  on  the  18th  of  April,  1846  ;  and  arrived 
at  Independence,  Mo.,  the  starting-point,  on  the  1st  of  May. 

The  town  of  Independence  is  situated  about  six  miles  from 
the  Missouri  river,  on  the  southern,  or  left-hand  side  as  you 
ascend  it.  The  surrounding  country  is  undulating,*  picturesque, 
and  highly  fertile.  Tlie  growth  of  timber  is  various,  and  all 
indicative  of  a  fat  and  exuberantly  productive  soil.  Its  popu- 
lation is  about  one  thousand  ;  and,  at  this  season,  cv-;n  man 
seems  to  be  actively  and  profitably  employed.  It  hac  been 
for  some  years  the  principal  outfitting  point  for  the  Saat.&  Fe 
traders,  and  will  probably  so  continue.  Many  of  the  houses 
around  the  public  square  are  constructed  of  brick,  but  the 
majority  of  the  buildings  are  frames.  I  noticed,  among  the 
busy  multitude  moving  to  and  fro  through  the  streets,  a  large 
number  of  New- Mexicans,  and  half-breed  Indians,  with  theii 
dusky  complexions  and  ragged  and  dirty  costumes.  They  were 
genf  rally  mounted  on  miserably  poor  mules  or  horses,  and 
presented  a  most  shabby  appearance.     Long  trains  of  oxen, 

2 


14  IKTRODUCTIOH. 

sometimes  as  many  as  ten  or  fifteen  yokes,  strung  together  and 
pulling  huge  tented-wagons,  designed  for  some  Santa  Fe  trading 
expedition,  were  moving  about  the  streets,  under  the  direction 
of  numerous  drivers,  cracking  their  whips  and  making  a  great 
noise.  Ox-teams  seem  to  be  esteemed  as  preferable,  in  these 
journeys,  to  either  mules  or  horses.  Following  the  example  of 
others  more  sxperienced  in  these  matters  than  ourselves,  we 
determined  vo  procure  oxen,  instead  of  mules,  for  our  wagon, 
as  originally  we  had  intended. 

Accordingly  I  purchased  three  yokes  of  oxen,  which  it  was 
believed  would  be  a  team  sufficiently  powerful  for  the  trans- 
portation of  our  baggage  and  provisions.  The  average  piice 
paid  per  yoke  was  $21.67,  which  was  considered  very  cheap. 
Ths  streets  were  nlled  with  oxen  oflfered  for  sale  by  the  neigh- 
boring farmers-  but  few  of  them  were  in  good  condition  or  well 
trained.  This  was  the  case  in  regard  to  those  we  purchased  ; 
but  they  were  all  young  cattle,  and  improvable.  Young  and 
medium-sized  cattle  should  be  selected  for  a  journey  over  the 
plains  and  mountains,  in  preference  to  the  heavy-bodied  and  old ; 
the  latter  almost  invariably  become  foot-sore,  and  give  out  after 
travelling  a  few  hundred  miles.  We  engaged  a  man,  who  had 
spent  some  time  in  the  Rocky  Mountains  as  a  servant  of  the 
trading  and  trapping  companies,  for  our  driver  and  cook,  and 
the  cattle  were  placed  under  his  charge  to  be  educated.  Al- 
though we  had  made  many  purchases  in  St.  Louis,  we  found 
upon  consultation  after  our  arrival  here,  that  there  was  a  long 
list  of  small  articles  necessary  for  the  journey  yet  to  be  pro- 
cured. These  I  obtained  at  reasonable  rates,  of  Messrs.  Wilson 
iSi  Clarke,  who  keep  a  general  furnishing  store  for  these  expe- 
ditions. Other  mercantile  houses  in  the  place  were  also  well 
supplied,  and  sold  their  wares  at  fair  prices. 

The  masonic  lodges  of  Independence  commemorated  the 
departure  of  tlieir  brother  masons,  connected  with  the  Santa 
¥6.  a.nd  emigrating  parties,  by  a  public  procession  and  an  ad- 
dress, with  othei"  religious  exercises.  The  lady-masons,  tliat 
!£,  llie  wives  of  tlie  members  of  the  fraternity,  walked  '•  the 
procession  to  and    from    the   church.      A  huge  audience  was 


INTRODUCTION.  15 

collected  to  hear  the  address,  and  participate  in  the  exercises 
The  address  was  delivered  by  Mr,  Reese,  the  grand-master, 
or  principal  masonic  officer  in  the  place.  It  was  appropriate 
to  the  occasion,  except,  as  I  thought,  that  it  was  rather  over- 
strained in  pathos.  The  orator,  at  the  close  of  his  discourse, 
consigned  us  all  to  the  grave,  or  to  perpetual  exile.  He  was 
responded  to  in  suitable  and  eloquent  terms,  on  behalf  of  the 
Santa  Fe  traders  and  the  emigrants  to  Oregon  and  Cahfornia, 
by  Col.  Waul  and  Col.  Russell.  After  the  addresses,  an 
original  hymn,  written  for  the  occasion,  as  I  understood,  was 
sung  with  much  feeling  by  the  whole  audience,  to  the  tune  of 
"  Old  Rosin  the  Bow."  These  farewell  ceremonies  were  con- 
cluded by  an  affecting  prayer  and  benediction.  The  ladies 
of  the  auditory,  I  thought,  were  the  most  interested  in  and 
excited  by  these  proceedings.  Some  of  thee  wept,  and  man- 
ifested strong  emotions. 

It  rained  heavily  and  incessantly  the  whole  day  on  the  3d, 
and  the  unpaved  streets  of  the  town  were  so  muddy  and  so 
much  inundated  with  water,  that  walking  about  was  quite  out 
of  the  question.  We  therefore  confined  ourselves  to  our  room 
in  the  hotel,  where  we  had  scores  of  visiters ;  who,  finding  it 
impossible  to  do  any  thing  else,  lounged  and  talked  over  the 
various  rumors  connected  with  the  several  expeditions. 

One  of  these  rumors  was,  that  five  thousand  Moimons  were 
crossing,  or  had  crossed,  the  Kansas  river ;  that  they  marched 
with  ten  brass  fieldpieces,  and  that  every  man  of  the  party 
was  armed  with  a  rifle,  a  bowie-knife,  and  a  brace  of  large 
revolving  pistols.  It  was  declared  that  they  were  inveterate!}' 
hostile  to  the  emigrant  parties ;  and  when  the  latter  came  up 
to  the  Moimons,  they  intended  to  attack  and  murder  them, 
and  appropriate  to  themselves  their  property.  Another  rumor 
was,  that  the  Kansas  Indians  had  collected  in  large  numbers 
on  the  trail,  for  the  purpose  of  robbery  and  murder.  A  third 
was,  that  a  party  of  five  Englishmen,  supposed  to  be  emis- 
saries of  their  government,  had  started  in  advance  of  us,  bour.d 
for  Oregon ;  and  that  their  object  was  to  stir  up  the  Indian 
tribes  along  the  route,  and   incite  them  to  deeds  of  hostility 


16  INTRODUCTION. 

towards  the  emigrants ;  to  attack  their  trains,  rob,  murderj 
and  annihilate  them.  All  these  reports  were  sufficiently  ap- 
palling to  deter  prudent  men  from  incurring  the  dangers  which 
they  suggested,  had  there  been  any  foundation  for  them  to  rest 
upon.  Similar  rumors  will  probably  be  current  every  year, 
about  the  time  that  emigrants  are  organizing  their  companies 
to  start  west.  ^ 

Among  the  gentlemen  who  honored  us  with  their  company 
during  the  day,  were — Mr.  Webb,  editor  of  the  "  Independence 
Expositor,"  to  whom  I  was  indebted  for  several  acts  of  kind- 
ness ;  Mr.  LiPPiNCOTT,  a  gentleman  from  New  York,  visiting 
California  for  commercial  purposes  ;  and  Mr.  Curry,  late  one  of 
the  editors  of  the  "St.  Louis  Reveille,"  yrho  wUl  be  our  fellow- 
traveller  over  the  plains  and  mountains.  Many  tales  of  Rocky 
Mountain  adventure,  some  of  which  were  sufficiently  dismal 
and  tragical  for  the  most  horror-tinctured  taste,  others  con- 
trasting as  widely  therefrom  as  possible,  were  related.  The 
merits  of  the  couniries  bordering  the  Pacific  were  discussed : 
by  some  they  were  denounced  as  abodes  suitable  only  fof  the 
condemned  ind  aoandoned  of  God  and  man ;  by  others  they 
w^re  extolled,  as  beiijg  scarcely  inferior  in  their  attractions  to 
tne  Eden  described  in  the  history  of  the  creation,  and  present- 
in.'^  such  fascinations  as  almost  to  call  the  angels  and  saints 
from  their  bi'sstul  gardens  and  diamond  temples  in  the  heavens. 
Such  are  the  r  ntipodes  of  opinion  among  those  who  I'ely  upon 
second-hand  testimony  for  their  information,  or  are  governed  by 
their  prejudices,  in  reference  to  this  subject. 

A  story  was  told  in  regard  to  the  climate  of  California,  which, 
because  it  serves  to  illustrate  the  extravagances  above  referred 
to,  I  will  endeavor  to  recite.  It  was  of  a  man  who  had  lived  in 
California,  until  he  had  reached  the  advanced  age  of  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  years!  Although  that  number  of  years  had 
passed  over  hira,  such  were  the  life-giving  and  youth-preserving 
qualities  of  the  climate,  that  he  was  in  the  perfect  enjoyment  of 
his  health,  and  every  faculty  of  mind  and  hod}'  which  he  had 
ever  possessed.  But  he  was  lired  of  life.  Having  lived  so  long 
in  a  turbident  and   unquiet  world,  he  anxiously  desired  som*" 


INTRODUCTION.  17 

new  state  of  existence,  unincumbered  with  its  cares,  and  imruf- 
fled  by  its  passions  and  its  strifes.  But  notwithstanding  all  his 
efforts  to  produce  a  result  which  he  so  much  wished,  and  for 
which  he  daily  and  hourly  prayed  to  his  Maker,  health,  and 
vigor,  and  life  still  clung  to  him — he  could  not  shake  them  off. 
He  sometimes  contemplated  suicide  ;  but  the  holy  padres,  to 
whom  be  confessed  his  thoughts,  admonished  him  that  that 
was  damnation :  he  was  a  devout  Christian,  and  would  not 
disobey  their  injunctions.  A  lay  friend,  however,  (his  heir, 
probably,)  with  whom  he  daily  consulted  on  this  subject,  at 
last  advised  him  to  a  course  which,  he  thought,  would  produce 
the  desired  result.  It  was  to  make  his  will,  and  other  arrange- 
ments, and  then  travel  into  a  foreign  country.  This  suggestion 
was  pleasing  to  our  venerable  Californian  patriarch  in  search  of 
death,  and  he  immediately  adopted  it.  He  visited  an  adjoining 
country ;  and  very  soon,  in  accordance  with  his  pian  and  his 
wishes,  he  took  sick  and  died.  In  his  will,  however,  he  required 
his  heir  and  executor,  upon  pain  of  disinheritance,  to  transport 
his  remains  to  his  own  country  and  there  entomb  them.  This 
requisition  was  faithfully  complied  with.  His  body  was  interred 
with  great  pomp  and  ceremony  in  his  own  cemetery,  and  prayers 
were  rehearsed  in  all  the  churches  for  the  rest  of  his  soul.  He 
was  happy,  it  was  supposed,  in  heaven,  where,  for  a  long  series 
of  years,  he  had  prayed  to  be ;  and  his  heir  was  happy  that  he 
was  there.  But  what  a  disappointment !  Being  brought  back 
and  interred  in  Californian  soil,  with  the  health- breathing  Cal- 
ifornian zephyrs  rustling  over  his  grave,  the  energies  of  lift 
were  immediately  restored  to  his  inanimate  corpse  !  Herculean 
strength  was  imparted  to  his  frame,  and  bursting  tb»=  prison- 
walls  of  death,  he  appeared  before  his  chapfallen  hei*-  reinvested 
with  all  the  vigor  and  beauty  of  early  ifianhood  !  He  submitted 
to  his  fate,  and  determined  to  live  his  appointed  time.  Stori'^? 
similar  to  the  foregoing,  although  absurd,  and  so  intended  to 
be,  no  doubt  leave  their  impressions  upon  the  minds  of  many, 
predisposed  to  rove  in  search  of  adventures  and  Eldorados. 

A  party  of  gentlemen  from  Baltimore,  bound  for  Santa  Fe 
on  a  pleasure  excursion,  among  whom  were  Messrs.  HoflbiaDf 

2* 


18  INTRODUCTION 

Morris,  and  Meredith,  arrived.  The  small  town  seemed  to  Iw 
literally  overflowing  with  strangers  of  every  grade  of  character 
and  condition  of  life,  collected  from  all  parts  of  the  continents 
of  America  and  Europe,  civilized  and  uncivilized.  On  the  4th 
our  additional  purchases  were  made  and  other  arrangements 
completed,  with  the  exception  of  some  fixtures  to  our  wagon, 
with  duplicate  axletrees,  ox-bows,  &c.  (fee,  which  were  prom- 
ised to  be  in  readiness  the  next  morning.  From  the  5th,  there- 
fore, I  shall  date  the  commencement  of  our  journey,  describing 
as  minutely  as  will  be  interesting  or  useful  the  events  and  ob 
servations  of  each  day  consecutively,  from  notes  taken  at  the 
close  of  our  several  diurnal  marches. 

I  bespeak  the  patience  of  the  reader  whenever  these  pag  ^s 
shall  appear  to  him  monotonous,  as  they  doubtless  frequently 
will.  My  design  is  to  give  a  truthful  and  not  an  exaggerated 
and  fanciful  account  of  the  occurrences  of  the  journey,  and  of 
the  scenery,  capabilities,  and  general  features  of  the  countries 
through  which  we  shall  pass,  with  incidental  sketches  of  the 
leading  characteristics  of  their  populations.  The  journey  across 
the  Rocky  Mountains  to  the  Pacific,  is  one  of  protracted  dura- 
tion, owing  to  the  necessarily  slow  progress  of  those  who  un- 
dertake it,  arising  from  the  numerous  difficulties  and  obstructions 
they  must  encounter.  The  scenery  is  neither  so  diversified,  nor 
are  the  incident  and  adventure  so  dramatic  and  striking  as  most 
••eaders  may  suppose,  from  having  perused  the  msmy  unauthen- 
cicated  histories,  fabulous  and  imaginary,  with  which  the  press 
has  of  lute  teemed,  professing  to  be  descriptive  of  mountain  and 
prairie  life.  The  vast  interior  of  North  America,  with  the  re- 
puted Eldorado  on  the  shore  of  the  Pacific,  furnishes,  however, 
much  that  is  worthy  of  the  inquiry,  examination,  and  admiration 
of  the  naturalist,  and  much  that  is  calculated  to  awaken  and 
please  the  desultory  curiosity  of  the  niass.  Wbatever  I  saw 
and  noted  at  the  time,  with  the  impressions  n«»*le  upon  my 
mind,  will  be  faithfully  and  truthfully  :ecorded 


APPEARANCE  OF  THE  COUNTST  19 


CHAPTER  II. 

A.ppea;auce  of  the  country — ^Vexatious  difficultiea  of  starting — First  camp 
— Violent  thunder-storm — Four-footed  tragedian — First  view  of  the  prai- 
ries— Soil — Flowers — Emigrant  camp — Frontier  family — Thunder-storm 
on  ttie  prairie — Lodgings  on  the  frontier — More  of  the  Mormons — Rain- 
bow on  the  prairies — Indian  Creek — Place  of  organization — Straying  of 
cattle  and  horses — Election  on  the  prairies — Shawnee  Indians. 

May  5. — The  beauties  and  glories  of  spring  are  now  unfold- 
ing themselves,  and  earth  and  skv  seem  to  vie  with  each  other 
in  presenting  the  most  pleasing  inflviences  to  the  eye  and  upon 
the  sensibilities.  Vegetable  nature  in  this  region  has  arrayed 
herself  in  a  gorgeous  garniture,  and  every  object  that  raises  it- 
self above  the  surface  of  the  ground,  is  so  adorned  wdth  verdure 
and  all  the  variegated  and  sparkling  array  of  floral  coloring,  as 
to  challenge  the  admiration  of  the  most  unobservant  eye. 

Our  wagon,  which  has  been  in  the  hands  of  the  smith  several 
days  for  the  purpose  of  adapting  it  in  all  respects  to  our  jour- 
ney, we  expected  would  be  ready  early  this  morning;  but 
when  I  went  to  the  shop  to  ascertain  if  the  alterations  and  fix- 
tures were  completed,  I  found  but  little  done.  The  smith  made 
his  excuses  as  usual  in  such  cases,  but  promised  to  go  about 
the  work  and  finish  it  immediately.  I  had  learned  how  to 
value  his  promises,  and  determined  not  to  leave  the  spot  until 
I  saw  the  work  finished.  This  was  done  about  three  o'clock, 
p.  M.  Our  ox-team,  which  had  been  kept  in  readiness  for  sev- 
eral hours,  was  immediately  attached  to  the  wagon,  and  ou** 
luggage  placed  in  it  with  all  dispatch,  and  at  four  o'clock  the 
wagon  and  team,  under  the  guidance  of  Brownell  the  driver, 
left  the  town.  Business  detaining  me  a  short  time,  I  did  POt 
overtake  the  wagon,  until  it  had  "  rolled,"  as  the  teamster's  ex- 
pression is,  about  a  mile  ircia.  its  starting-point,  where  I  found 


20  FIRST  CAMP. 

it  firmly  and  immoveably  stalled  in  the  mud,  so  far  as  the 
power  of  our  team  could  be  considered  an  agent  for  its  extrica- 
tion. The  oxen  being  untutored  and  unmanageable,  coidd  not 
be  prevailed  upon  to  unite  their  strength.  I  dismounted  from 
my  horse,  and  with  the  aid  of  Curry,  McKinstry,  and  Nuttall, 
endeavored  to  raise  the  wheels  and  thus  assist  the  oxen  in  their 
efforts.  But  all  our  exertions  were  vain.  Fortunately  a  negro 
man  with  a  well-trained  yoke  of  oxen  came  down  the  road, 
while  we  were  thus  engaged,  and  hitching  his  team  to  ours  the 
wagon  was  immediately  drawn  out  of  the  mud,  and,  to  use  a 
nautical  expression,  we  were  "  set  afloat"  again. 

Proceeding  a  mile  farther,  I  determined  to  encamp  for  the 
night,  it  being  nearly  simset,  on  a  small  stream  which  crossed 
the  road.  Having  selected  the  site  of  our  camp  in  a  grove 
near  a  log-house,  the  wagon,  driven  by  Brownell,  soon  camo 
up,  but  in  attempting  to  cross  a  causeway  thrown  over  the 
stream,  the  wheels  ran  off  on  one  side,  and  we  were  stalled  a 
second  time.  We  were  relieved  finally  from  this  difficulty  by 
a  Santa  Fe  teamster  and  his  oxen,  who  came  down  the  road 
during  our  labors  to  extricate  the  wagon.  A  Mr.  Ross,  of  In- 
dependence, passing  at  the  time,  acted  as  master-teamster  on 
the  occasion,  and  performed  his  duty  to  admu-ation.  The  oxen 
seemed  willing  to  obey  him,  when  they  would  not  heed  the 
commands  of  others.  We  ascended  a  small  elevation  and  en- 
camped for  the  night. 

Our  provisions  and  cooking  utensils,  in  the  haste  of  de- 
parture, had  been  packed  in  the  wagon-  without  much  regard 
to  convenience,  in  case  we  should  be  obliged  to  make  use  of 
them  ;  and  we  were  consequently  compelled  to  remove  many 
heavy  boxes  and  trunks  before  arriving  at  our  meal,  flour,  and 
bacon,  and  the  pans  and  dishes  of  our  kitchen  and  table.  Upon 
a  careful  inspection,  we  moreover  found  that  sundry  pots,  skil- 
lets, and  frying-pans,  whicli  we  had  specially  ordered  and  paid 
for,  were  wanting. 

During  tlie  process  of  cooking  supper,  it  commenced  raining 
and  blowing  with  great  violence.  Our  fire  was  nearly  extin- 
jfuiahed  by  the  deluge  of  water  from  Ihe  clouds,  and  our  dough 


THUNDER-STORM.  21 

was  almost  turned  to  hatter.  Curry,  after  most  persevering 
and  praiseworthy  eflforts,  succeeded  in  browning  the  coflfee,  but 
Jacob,  when  he  set  about  grinding  it,  could  not  make  the 
coflfee-mill  perform  its  appropriate  duty,  and  it  was  voted  a 
cheat.  The  rain  came  down  so  copiously  at  last,  that  our  fire 
was  entirely  extinguished,  and  our  cuhnary  operations  were 
suspended  until  nearly  10  o'clock.  The  violence  of  the  storm 
abated  at  that  hour.  Brownell  soon  after  succeeded  in  placing 
before  us  a  supper  of  half-baked  corn-bread,  fried  bacon,  and 
coffee.  We  ate  standing,  with  the  rain  falling,  and  our  clothing 
completely  saturated  with  water. 

Our  oxen  become  entangled  in  the  ropes  by  which  we  had 
secured  them  from  straying  during  the  night,  and  it  was  not 
without  much  labor  and  difficulty  that  they  were  released. 
Jacob  and  myself  made  our  bed,  or  rather  took  sheltpr  from 
the  storm,  among  the  boxes  in  our  wagon ;  McKinsiry  and 
Brownell  bivouacked  under  the  wagon,  and  Curry  and  Nuttall 
under  a  large  tree.  The  suspension  of  the  fury  of  the  storm 
lasted  until  about  2  o'clock  in  the  morning,  when  the  rain  re- 
commenced falling  in  torrents,  accompanied  by  peals  of  crash- 
ing thunder  and  flashes  of  ligiitning  so  brilliant,  as  to  illumi- 
nate the  whole  vault  of  the  heavens.  Notwithstanding  all  these 
inconveniences,  we  rested  pretty  well.     Distance  two  miles. 

May  6. — The  atmosphere  was  clear  and  calm,  cicd  thousands 
of  birds  were  chanting  their  matin  hymn,  rendering  the  grove 
musical  with  their  melodies. 

Three  Santa  Fe  wagons  which  passed  our  camp  last  night 
during  the  storm,  were  stalled  in  the  road  just  beyond  us.  We 
purchased  some  corn  for  our  oxen  at  the  log-dwelling  near  by, 
which  they  devoured  with  a  good  appetite,  having  eaten  noth- 
ing for  about  eighteen  hours.  Our  breakfast,  which  consisted 
of  uadly-baked  corn-bread,  bacon,  and  coffee,  being  over,  we 
readjusted  the  baggage  and  resumed  our  journey.  Just  as  we 
were  starting,  one  of  our  best  oxen  having  become  entangled  in 
the  rope  by  which  he  was  tied,  was  thrown  to  the  ground  with 
great  force,  and  after  struggling  some  time  he  rolled  up  his  eyes, 
which  became  iixed,  and  be  manifested  all   the  symptoms  of 


22  THE    BLUE    PRAIRIE. 

death  by  a  broten  neck,  or  some  other  fatal  mjury.  The  rope 
was  cut,  but  he  waa  motionless  and  apparently  breathless. 
Here,  as  we  supposed,  was  a  disaster,  stopping  further  progress 
until  we  could  supply  the  place  of  the  dead  ox.  I  was  about 
starting  back  to  town  to  purchase  another  animal,  when  he 
very  calmly  and  deliberately  rose  upon  his  legs,  and  began  to 
feed  upon  the  corn  as  composedly  as  if  nothing  had  occuned. 
He  evidently,  after  struggling  with  the  rope  a  long  time,  thought 
himself  dying,  and  made  signs  accordingly. 

As  we  approached  what  is  called  the  Blue  Prairie,  the  road 
became  much  drier  and  less  difficult.  The  vast  prairie  itself 
soon  opened  before  us  in  all  its  grandeur  and  beauty.  I  had 
never  before  beheld  extensive  scenery  of  this  kind.  The  many 
desciiptions  of  the  prairies  of  the  west  had  forestalled  in  some 
measure  the  first  impressions  produced  by  the  magnificent  land- 
scape that  lay  spread  out  before  me  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach,  bounded  alone  by  the  blue  wall  of  the  sky.  No  de- 
scription, however,  Avhich  I  have  read  of  these  scenes,  or  which 
can  be  written,  can  convey  more  than  a  faint  impression  to  the 
imagination  of  their  effects  upon  the  eye.  The  view  of  the 
illimitable  succession  of  green  undulations  and  flowery  slopes, 
of  every  gentle  and  graceful  configuration,  stretching  away  and 
away,  until  they  fade  fi-om  the  sight  in  the  dim  distance,  cre- 
ates a  wild  and  scarcely  contiollable  ecstasy  of  admiration.  I 
felt,  I  doubt  not,  some  of  the  emotions  natural  to  the  abo- 
riginal inhabitants  of  these  boundless  and  picturesque  plains, 
when  roving  with  unrestrained  freedom  over  them  ;  and  care- 
less alike  of  the  past  and  the  futuie,  luxuriating  in  the  bloom- 
ing wilderness  of  sweets  which  the  Great  Spirit  had  created  for 
tl)eir  enjoyment,  and  placed  at  their  disposal. 

The  soil  of  these  prairies  is  of  the  most  inexhaustibly  fertile 
composition,  being  a  black  loam,  usually  several  feet  in  depth. 
Among  the  flowers  which  spangle  the  waves  of  this  ocean  of 
luxuriant  vegetation,  were  the  wild  pink-veibena,  and  the  wild 
indigo,  witli  a  blue  bean-like  blossom.  The  larkspur,  and  myr- 
iads of  smaller  flowers,  ornament,  the  velvety  carpet  of  grass. 
Having  alighted  from  my  horse  to  gather  some  fine  specimena 


INTERESTING  EMIGRANTS.  2? 

oi  these  flowers,  when  I  was  careiessiy  remounting,  encuniijered 
with  my  gun  and  several  other  articles,  the  saddle  turned,  and 
my  horse  becoming  restive  or  alarmed,  threw  me  with  great 
violence  to  the  ground.  My  wrist  and  both  shoulders  were 
much  injured,  and  my  right  side  was  severely  bruised. 

At  two  o'clock  we  reached  an  encampment,  composed  of  the 
wagons  of  Colonel  Russell  and  the  family  of  Mr.  West,  of  Cal- 
loway county.  Mo.,  and  some  others.  Tliey  were  emigrating  to 
California.  The  wagons  numbered  in  all  about  fifteen.  When 
our  wagon  arrived  it  was  drawn  up  alongside  the  others,  and 
our  oxen  released  to  feed  upon  the  grass  of  the  prairie.  I 
visited  the  tents  of  our  fellow-travellers,  and  found  the  ladies 
busily  employed,  as  if  sitting  by  the  fireside  which  they  had 
recently  left  for  a  long  and  toilsome,  if  not  a  dangerous  journey, 
and  a  country  of  which  they  knew  but  little.  Mrs.  West,  a  lady 
of  seventy,  and  her  daughter,  Mrs.  Campbell,  were  knitting. 
Mr.  West,  the  head  of  his  family,  was  originally  from  Virginia, 
and  was,  he  told  me,  seventy-five  years  of  age.  His  four  sons 
and  son-in-law.  Major  Campbell,  having  determined  to  emigrate 
to  California,  he  and  his  wife  had  resolved  to  accompany  them. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  W.,  although  so  mucli  advanced  in  life,  appeared 
to  be  as  resolute  as  the  youngest  of  their  family,  and  to  count 
with  certainty  upon  seeing  the  Eldorado  of  the  Pacific.  The 
former  realized  this  expectation,  the  latter  did  not. 

A  log-house,  the  residence  of  a  Mr.  Milliron,  an  emigrant  to 
this  country  from  Virginia,  was  situated  about  half  a  mile  from 
our  encampment.  We  visited  this  house  soon  after  Ave  en- 
camped. The  family,  consisting  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  M.  and  several 
sons  and  daughters,  have  resided  here,  on  the  outskirts  of  civil- 
ization, four  years.  They  have  annually  been  afflicted  with  the 
prevailing  sickness  of  the  country,  (the  fever  and  ague,)  except 
their  eldest  daughter,  a  very  fair-skinned,  handsomely-featured 
and  graceful  young  woman.  In  a  field  not  far  from  the  house, 
one  of  the  sons  of  Mr.  M.,  with  a  horse-team,  was  plowing  up 
the  ground.  I  followed  the  plow  several  times  backwards  and 
forwards,  and  I  never  saAv  a  soil  indicative  of  a  higher  degree 
of  fatness,  or  more  productive  qualities. 


£4  A  THUNDER-STORM. 

About  five  o'clock,  p.  m.,  a  very  black  and  threatening  cloud, 
which  had  been  gathering  for  some  hours  in  the  west,  rose  ovei 
us,  and  discharged  rain  with  the  copiousness  of  a  water-spout, 
accompanied  with  brilhant  and  incessant  flashes  of  Hghtning, 
and  crashing  peals  of  thunder.  The  scene,  during  the  violenc<^ 
of  the  storm,  was  inexpressibly  grand.  I  had  never  previous!)' 
witnessed  any  meteoric  displays  comparable  with  it.  The  storm 
continuing  after  dark,  we  determined  to  shelter  ourselves  in  thr- 
house  for  the  night. 

A  good  supper  of  fried  bacon,  eggs,  fresh  butter,  and  hot 
corn-bread  and  biscuit,  with  a  cup  of  coffee,  was  prepared  for 
us,  to  the  merits  of  which  we  did  ample  justice.  I  met  at  the 
supper-table  a  traveller  named  O'Bryant.  He  was  a  young 
man,  and  last  from  Santa  Fe,  bound  for  Independence,  He 
had  been  absent  from  the  United  States  six  years,  during  which 
time,  impelled  by  the  spirit  of  adventure  and  the  temptations  of 
gain,  he  had  visited  Santa  Fe,  Chihuahua,  Mexico,  the  mines  of 
Sonora,  and  the  country  of  Lower  California.  He  could,  how- 
ever, give  us  no  information  respecting  the  route  we  were  about 
to  travel. 

The  capacity  of  the  log-house  in  which  we  had  taken  lodg- 
ings for  the  night,  was  confined  to  two  small  rooms ;  and  of 
men,  women,  and  children,  all  counted,  there  were  some  fifteen 
persons  to  be  accommodated.  But  this,  singular  as  it  may 
seem  to  the  uninitiated  in  frontier  life,  Tas  done  to  the  perfect 
satisfaction  and  comfort  of  all  concerned.  Such  are  the  inven- 
tions of  necessity,  and  so  soon  do  our  real  wants  and  comforts 
overshadow  and  annihilate  the  artificial  desires  and  luxuries  of 
civilization  to  which  we  have  been  accustomed.  I  letircd  early, 
but  the  feverish  and  painful  sensations  produced  by  the  injuiies 
of  tlie  morning,  tog(;tlier  with  the  exciting  impressions  upon 
my  imagination  made  by  the  remarkable  aspect  of  the  country 
through  which  we  had  travelled,  prevented  sleep.  We  were 
now  on  the  line  which  divides  savage  life  and  civilization.  A 
few  miles  further,  and  we  shall  pass  beyond  the  incorporated 
territories  of  the  United  States  into  the  countries  inhabited  by 
the  untutored   tribes   of  the  wilderness.     But  notwithstanding 


PICTURESQUE  LANDSCAPE.  25 

such  is  our  position,  the  scenery  arouDil  us  presents  greater 
pastoral  charms  than  I  have  witnessed  in  the  oldtst  and  most 
densely  populated  districts  of  the  United  States;  houses  alone 
are  wanting  to  render  the  landscape  perfect.  It  would  seem 
as  if  in  mockery  of  the  puny  eli'orts  and  circumscribed  results 
of  the  labors  of  man  to  ornament  the  landscape  by  art  and 
cultivation,  the  power  and  taste  of  Omnipotence  had  here  been 
manifested,  preparing  for  his  children  a  garden  as  illimitable  in 
extent  as  it  is  perfect,  grand,  and  picturesque  in  appearance. 
Distance  10  miles. 

May  7. — A  rainbow  formed  a  perfect  and  brilliant  arch  in  the 
west,  as  the  sun  rose  above  the  eastern  horizon.  A  black  cur- 
tain of  clouds  shaded  the  entire  heavens,  with  the  exception  of 
a  narrow  fringe  of  yellow  light  above  the  far-off  green  undula- 
tions to  the  east.  The  impending  masses  of  watery  vapor  soon, 
however,  shut  down,  and  closing  this,  the  whole  heavens  were 
shrouded  in  deep  gloom. 

The  rain  fell  almost  imsessantly  during  the  night,  accom- 
panied by  loud  and  continual  peals  of  thunder,  and  flashes  of 
lightning  so  vivid  as  to  illuminate  the  apartment  in  which 
we  slept,  through  the  unchinked  crevices  between  the  logs. 
During  these  fierce  bursts  of  the  storm,  I  could  not  but  sympa- 
thize with  my  fellow-travelers  without,  with  no  shelter  but  the 
thin  covering  of  their  tent-cloths,  and  no  floor  to  rest  upon  but 
the  wet,  cold  ground.  Such  are  the  exposures  of  the  western 
emigrants. 

We  resumed  our  march  in  the  rain,  at  9  o'clock,  accompanied 
by  Colonel  Russell  and  his  wagon,  leaving  the  other  wagons 
encamped  where  we  found  them.  We  traveled  about  four 
miles  to  a  small  creek  which  is  called  "  Blue  Creek,"  and  find- 
ing the  waters  so  much  swollen  by  the  late  heavy  rains,  that  it 
was  not  fordable,  we  encamped  in  a  narrow,  timbered  bottom, 
a  hundred  yards  from  the  stream.  About  twelve  o'clock  the 
dark  masses  of  clouds  which  had  obscured  the  heavens,  and 
poured  out  upon  the  earth  sucli  floods  of  water,  cleared  away, 
and  tlie  sun  shone  out  warm  and  bright.  We  took  advantage 
of  this  interregnum  in  the  water  dynasty  to  dry  our  drenched 


86  EMIGRATING    MORMONS. 

clothing.  Large  fires  were  made  of  the  dead  and  fallen  timbei 
in  the  bottom,  and  an  excellent  dinner  of  fried  bacon  and  corn- 
bread  was  prepared  by  our  cook.  The  severe  bruises  which  I 
had  received  from  the  accident  of  yesterday,  aggravated  by  the 
inclemency  of  the  weather,  were  excessively  painful,  and  ren- 
dered me  quite  unfit  for  travelling. 

Ewing,  who  had  been  dispatched  yesterday  to  Fort  Leaven- 
worth to  ascertain  the  truth  of  the  various  rumors  respecting 
the  numbers  of  the  Mormons  bound  west,  their  disposition,  etc. 
etc.,  came  into  camp  whooping,  about  2  o'clock,  p.  m.,  with 
a  man  (McClary)  riding  behind  him  on  his  horse.  He  brought 
a  letter  from  Colonel  Kearny,  commandant  of  the  fort,  the 
purport  of  which  was,  that  a  thousand  Mormons  had  crossed  the 
Missouri  river  about  four  weeks  since,  and  that  a  number  about 
equal  to  the  foregoing  were  now  crossing  at  St.  Joseph's. 
Others,  it  was  reported,  were  soon  to  follow,  but  with  proper 
circumspection  on  our  part,  no  diflBculties  with  them  need  be 
apprehended. 

The  emigrants  with  whom  I  have  met,  express  generally 
much  apprehension  in  regard  to  the  designs  of  the  Mormons. 
Many  predict  collisions  with  them  and  fatal  results;  and  it  is 
probable  that  some  who  have  started  will  turn  back  in  conse- 
quence of  these  apprehensions. 

We  sounded  the  creek  this  evening,  but  found  the  depth  of 
water  too  great  for  fording.  We  consequently  resolved  to  en- 
camp for  the  night,  and  pitched  our  tent  for  the  fiist  time. 
Just  before  sunset  another  storm  of  lightning,  thunder,  and  rain 
rose  in  the  west,  and  passing  over  us  to  the  east,  the  most  per- 
fect and  brilliant  rainbow  I  ever  beheld  was  defined  .  upon  the 
face  of  the  dark  masses  of  clouds,  displaying  by  a  most  brilliant 
presentation  all  the  colois  of  the  prism.     Distance,  four  miles. 

May  6. — The  creek  had  fallen  several  feet  during  the  night, 
and,  much  to  our  gratification,  was  now  fordable.  But  our  oxen 
had  strayed  away,  and  it  was  not  until  after  a  long  search 
through  the  brushy  and  limbered  bottom  of  the  creek,  that  they 
were  found.  These  diflicuUics  in  respect  to  cattle  are  a  ways 
experienced  at  the  outset  of  a  journey  over  the  prairies.     At  0 


n 


MAGNIFICENT   PRAIRIE  27 

o'clock  we  resumed  our  march.  Fording  the  creek,  and  cross 
ing  the  timbered  bottom  of  the  stream  over  a  very  deep  and 
muddy  road,  we  entered  another  magnificent  prairie  beyond  the 
Missouri  hne  and  within  the  Indian  territory.  It  is  impossible 
for  me  to  convey  to  the  reader  the  impressions  made  upon  my 
mind  by  a  survey  of  these  measureless  undulating  plains,  with 
their  ground  of  the  freshest  verdure,  and  their  garniture  of 
flame-like  flowers,  decorating  every  slope  and  hill-top.  It 
would  seem  as  if  here  the  Almighty  had  erected  a  finished 
abode  for  his  rational  creatures,  and  ornamented  it  with  beau- 
ties of  landscape  and  exuberance  and  variety  of  production  far 
above  our  feeble  conceptions  or  eSbrts  at  imitation. 

Our  cow,  which  we  found  it  impossible  to  drive  before  us, 
we  secured  by  a  rope  attached  to  her  head,  and  tied  to  the  rear 
of  the  wagon.  In  the  course  of  the  day  she  became  entirely 
exhausted  by  her  own  intractability,  and  fell  down  in  the  road. 
We  were  compelled  to  leave  her,  and  forego  the  luxury  of  milk 
on  our  journey.  Some  distance  to  the  right  of  our  trail,  about 
two  o'clock,  p.  M.,  we  saw  an  encampment  of  several  emigrant 
wagons.  Colonel  Russell  and  myself  proceeded  to  them. 
Composing  a  portion  of  this  party,  were  Mi-,  and  Mrs.  Newton, 
recently  from  Virginia,  and  bound  for  California.  Mrs.  N.  is  a 
lady  of  good  appearance  and  manners,  and  of  cultivated  taste. 
We  dined  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  N. ;  and  although  our  dinner  was 
not  set  out  in  *the  style  of  the  St.  Charles,  the  Gait  House,  or 
the  Astor  House,  nor  the  viands  so  various,  I  certainly  enjoyed 
it  more  than  I  ever  did  a  repast  at  either  of  those  celebrated 
places  of  luxury  and  resort. 

Pursuing  our  journey,  after  dinner,  we  overtook  ten  emigrant 
wasfons,  with  a  numerous  drove  of  cows  and  other  stock.  Most 
of  these  wagons  are  the  property  of  Mr.  Gordon,  of  Missouri, 
who,  with  his  entire  family,  consisting  of  several  sons  and 
daughters,  is  removing  to  California.  After  some  conversation 
we  passed  them,  and  overtook  our  own  wagons  just  as  they 
were  driving  up  to  the  encampment  on  Indian  Creek,  where 
the  organization  for  our  journey  is  to  take  place.  The  position 
of  this  encampment  is  highly  picturesque.     The  margin  of  th« 


28  FLOWERS  AND  PLANTS. 

small  stream  is  fringed  with  a  grove  of  timber,  and  from  tte. 
gentle  slope,  where  our  wagons  are  drawn  up,  the  verdant 
prairie,  brilliant  with  flowers  of  every  dye,  stretches  far  away 
on  all  sides,  diversified  in  its  surface  by  every  conceivable  va- 
riety of  undulation. 

We  found  two  wagons  encamped  here,  one  of  which  belonged 
to  Mr.  Grayson,  of  St.  Louis.  Mrs.  G.,  an  intelligent  and  culti- 
vated lady,  with  a  small  child,  accompanies  her  husband  to  the 
shores  of  the  Pacific.  A  party  from  Michigan,  imder  ,the 
direction  of  Mr.  Harlan,  we  learned,  was  encamped  in  a  grove 
of  timber  about  a  mile  beyond  us.  They  left  Michigan  in  Octo- 
ber last,  and  wintered  near  Lexington,  Mo.  From  thence,  this 
spring,  by  land,  they  had  proceeded  thus  far  on  their  journey 
to  the  Pacific.  I  visited  them  in  the  afternoon ;  and,  as  usual 
among  the  emigrants,  found  them  cordial  and  friendly  in  their 
salutations.  They  had  been  in  their  present  encampment  more 
than  a  month,  but  appeared  to  be  contented  and  happy,  and, 
with  the  numerous  women  and  children,  who  greatly  outnum- 
ber the  men,  to  possess  a  persevering  energy  and  confidence 
in  the  future,  that  would  sustain  them  in  a  journey  round  the 
globe,  whatever  might  be  its  difficulties. 

Returning  to  our  camp,  and  accompanied  by  Curry  and  Nut- 
tall,  I  walked  some  distance  down  the  creek  to  try  my  luck  at 
angling.  The  aggregate  result  of  two  hours'  patient  toil,  was 
about  fifteen  small  fish,  with  which  we  returned  to  camp.  They 
were  cooked  in  the  pan,  and  our  appetites  were  such  that  we 
enjoved  them  with  a  relish  unknown  to  the  epicure  of  the 
"  settlements." 

Among  the  flowers  and  plants  which  I  have  noticed  to-day, 
are  tlie  verbena  and  the  indigo-plant,  in  larger  quantities  and  a 
Jiighcr  degree  of  perfection.  Also  a  species  of  wild  geranium, 
atid  the  losin-weed,  the  stalk  of  the  last  of  which,  on  being 
rjroken,  exudes  a  gum  of  the  consistence  and  odor  of  turpentine. 
Tlie  lupin  (not  in  bloom)  in  many  places  seems  to  dispute  the 
occupancy  of  the  soil  with  the  grass.  I  observed,  also,  a  plant 
producing  a  fruit  of  the  size  of  the  walnut,  called  tlie  prairie- 
pea.     The  fruit  has  an  agreeable  taste,  resembhng  thai   of  thf« 


ELECTIONEERING.  29 

green  pea  of  our  gardens.  In  a  raw  state,  it  is  eaten  by  travel- 
lers on  the  plains  to  quench  thirst.  It  makes  a  most  excellent 
pickle,  as  we  afterwards  discovered,  scarcely  inferior  to  the  olive. 

I  killed  a  moccasin-snake  this  afternoon,  when  returning  from 
our  angling  excursion  down  the  creek.  I  had  nearly  stepped 
upon  him  before  he  was  discovered,  and  from  his  attitude,  he 
was  evidently  prepared  to  strike  at  me.  He  was  about  three 
feet  in  length. 

The  sky,  since  twelve  o'clock,  m.,  has  been  perfectly  clear, 
and  the  atmosphere  calm.  At  eight  o'clock,  p.  m.,  the  moon 
and  stars  are  shining  in  all  their  splendor,  presenting  to  the  eye 
a  scene  of  imposing  sublimity,  and  of  the  most  profound  solitude. 
Distance,  16  miles. 

May  9. — Immediately  after  breakfast  I  commenced  the  ar- 
rangement of  our  baggage  and  provisions,  so  as  to  render  them 
convenient  of  access  in  our  wagon.  A  party  which  went  out 
in  the  morning  to  angle,  brought  in  an  abundant  supply  of 
small  fish  about  12  o'clock.  Several  emigrant  wagons  have 
arrived  during  the  day  and  encamped  alongside  of  us.  The 
wagons  at  our  camp  this  evening  numbered  thirty-four.  We 
were  visited  by  Mr.  Harlan  and  a  number  of  his  party. 

It  was  proposed  to-day,  and  there  was  a  general  concurrence 
to  the  proposition,  that  the  party  for  California  should  be  or- 
ganized and  officerv.d  by  the  free  choice  of  those  concerned,  on 
Monday  next.  Singular  as  it  may  appear,  there  is  as  much 
electioneering  here  for  the  captaincy  of  this  expedition,  as  there 
would  be  for  the  generalship  of  an  army,  or  for  the  presidency 
of  the  United  States.  The  many  interests  of  the  ambitious  as- 
pirants to  office,  and  the  vehemence  with  which  their  claims  are 
urged  by  their  respective  friends,  augur  unfavorably  to  har- 
mony on  the  journey. 

Our  camp  this  evening  presents  a  most  cheerful  appearance. 
The  prairie,  miles  around  us,  is  enlivened  with  groups  of  cattle, 
numbering  six  or  seven  hundred,  feeding  upon  the  fresh  green 
grass.  The  numerous  white  tents  and  wagon-covers  before 
which  the  camp-fires  are  blazing  brightly,  represent  a  rustic 
village ;  and  men,  women,  and  children  are  talking,  playing,  and 

3* 


30  RELIGIOUS    EXERCISES. 

singing  around  them  with  all  the  glee  of  light  and  careleM 
hearts.  While  I  am  writing,  a  party  at  the  lower  end  of  the 
camp  is  engaged  in  singing  hymns  and  sacred  songs. 

The  dew  is  very  heavy,  the  grass  being  as  wet  as  if  a  hard 
shower  had  fallen  during  the  night.  This  diurnal  condensation 
of  dampness,  and  the  great  difference  between  the  temperature 
of  the  day  and  the  night,  are  doubtless  strong  agents  in  pro- 
ducing the  prevailing  diseases  of  this  country, — the  ague  and 
bilious  fevers. 

Several  of  the  oxen  and  horses  belonging  to  ourselves  and 
others  of  the  party  encamped,  strayed  away  and  could  not  be 
found  this  morning.  A  general  hunt  to  recover  this  valuable 
property  became  necessary,  and  it  proved  successful.  Emi- 
grants cannot  be  too  watchful  of  their  cattle  and  horses  when 
first  starting  upon  this  journey.  They  are  all  more  or  less 
disposed  to  stray  and  return  to  the  settlements,  and  frequently 
they  range  to  such  a  distance,  that  they  cannot  be  recovered. 

Numerous  parties  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  from  the  neighbor- 
bg  villages  visited  our  camp  in  the  course  of  the  day,  and  at- 
tended divine  service,  the  exercises  of  which  were  performed  by 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Dunleavy  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  church,  one 
of  the  emigrants  to  California. 

Six  additional  wagons  came  into  our  camp  in  the  course  of  the 
afternoon,  one  of  which,  drawn  by  mules,  belonged  to  Mr.  Lip- 
pincott  of  New  York,  whom  I  have  already  mentioned.  The  sun, 
until  late  in  the  afternoon,  shone  with  scorching  intensity.  Just 
before  sunset  I  took  a  stroll  over  the  verdant  plain  to  gather 
flowers  for  preservation.  I  strayed  to  a  stone  monument  erected 
by  an  emigrating  company,  commemorative  of  their  departure 
for  Oregon,  on  a  commanding  position  :  f  the  prairie. 

Ex-irovernor  Boir(rs,  of  Missouri,  who,  with  his  family,  de- 
signs  to  emigrate  to  California,  came  to  our  camp  this  evening, 
and  soon  after  left,  returning  to  Independence,  liis  residence. 
He  stated  that  it  was  impossible  for  his  wagons  to  come  up 
with  us  until  Thursday. 

May  11. — Tills  day  had  been  appointed  for  the  organization 
of  the  emigrant  company  bound  for  California,  the  choice  of 


ELECTION  OF  COMMANDER.  31 

officers,  &c.  Mr.  Harlan  and  his  party  came  over,  and  at 
nine  o'clock,  a.  m.,  all  the  men  were  assembled  in  the  grove  tc 
proceed  to  business. 

Edwin  Bryant  was  chosen  chairman,  and  Mr,  Curry  ap- 
pointed secretary  of  the  meeting.  Mr.  Harlan,  after  the  or- 
ganization of  the  meeting,  moved  a  postponement  of  the  election 
of  officers,  until  the  emigrants  had  passed  the  Kanzas  river. 
This  motion  was  rejected.  Mr.  H.  then  requested  leave  tc 
withdraw  from  the  meeting,  and  by  a  vote  his  request  was 
granted.  He  then  withdrew,  stating,  however,  before  he  left, 
his  belief  that  companies  of  moderate  size  would  travel  with 
much  more  convenience  and  celerity  than  large  companies,  and 
that  his  party  added  to  those  on  the  ground,  he  believed,  would 
render  the  train  too  unwieldy  for  convenience  and  progress. 
This  view  was  afterwards  found  to  be  entirely  correct. 

Colonel  W.  H.  Russell  was  then  chosen  captain  of  the  party 
encamped  around  us.  A  committee  was  appointed,  of  which 
Governor  Boggs  was  chairman,  to  draft  rules  or  laws  for  the 
government  of  the  party  during  their  journey.  They  reported 
in  the  afternoon,  and  it  was  further  resolved  that  we  should 
recommence  our  journey  in  the  morning.  A  guard  was  set 
over  our  cattle  to-night,  for  the  first  time,  to  prevent  them  from 
straying. 

A  male  and  female  of  the  Shawnee  Indian  tribe  came  into 
our  camp  this  afternoon.  Their  age  apparently  was  about  fifty. 
They  were  mounted  on  ponies,  and  the  female  rode  sidewise 
on  the  saddle.  They  were  dressed  in  the  costume  of  the  whites 
oi  the  frontier.     They  were  very  taciturn,  and  soon  left  us. 


Si  "C4TCHING  UP,* 


CHAPTER   III. 

Le&Te  Indian  Creek — "  Catching  up" — A  corral — Droves  of  mules  from 
New  Mexico — Santa  Fe  traders  returning — Dismal  accounts  of  the  jour- 
ney— Leave  the  Santa  Fe  trail — Wild  onions — Difficult  crossings — I'ot- 
awattomie  Indian — Ex-governor  Boggs  and  other  emigrants  come  up — • 
Reasons  assigned  for  emigration — Solitude  of  the  prairies — IVIore  Indians 
— First  news  of  war  with  Mexico — Signs  of  dissolution  of  the  party — An 
adventure  almost — Extreme  heat — Sufferings  of  cattle — Division — Kan- 
sas River — A  luxury  in  the  wilderness — New-comers — Rumors  of  war 
confirmed. 

Mat  12. — All  the  wagons  and  teams  were  this  morning  in- 
spected by  a  committee  appointed  for  that  purpose.  It  ap- 
peared from  their  report  that  the  number  of  wagons  belonging 
to  the  company  was  63  ;  of  men  119  ;  of  women  59 ;  of  chil- 
dren, male  and  female,  110;  pounds  of  breadstuflfs  58,484;  of 
bacon  38,080 ;  of  powder  1,065  ;  of  lead  2,55*7 ;  number  of 
guns,  mostly  rifles,  144  ;  pistols  94.  The  number  of  cattle  was 
not  reported,  but  I  estimate  it  at  700,  including  the  loose  stock, 
and  150  horses. 

The  scene  of  "  catching  up,"  as  the  yoking  and  attaching  of 
the  oxen  to  the  wagons  is  called  in  emigrant  phraseology,  is 
one  of  great  bustle  and  confusion.  The  crack  of  the  ox-goad, 
the  "  whoa-haws"  in  a  loud  voice,  the  leaping  and  ruimmg 
about  of  the  oxen  to  avoid  the  yoke,  and  the  bellowing  of  the 
loose  stock,  altogotlier  create  a  most  Babel-like  and  ex<:iting 
confusion.  The  wagons  commenced  moving  at  nine  o'clock, 
and  at  ten  the  camp  was  entu-ely  deserted.  In  consequence  of 
there  being  no  order  of  march  to-day,  the  train  of  wagons  was 
strung  out  two  or  three  niiU;s  in  length.  The  views  of  tliis  long 
procession,  occasionally  sinking  into  the  depiessions  of  the  prai- 
rie, and  then  riBing  therefrom  and  winding  along  the  curves  of 


A  CORRAL.  33 

the  ridges  to  avoid  the  wet  and  soft  groimd,  were  highly  pictu- 
resque. 

Our  journey  has  been  over  a  prairie  entirely  destitute  of 
timber,  or  shrubbery  of  any  kmd.  The  soil  is  generally  com- 
posed of  a  black  argillaceous  loam,  several  feet  in  depth.  The 
summits  of  the  highest  elevations  exhibit  a  more  sandy  compo- 
sition of  soil,  with  a  debris  of  flint  and  porous  sandstone.  The 
grouse,  or  prairie-hens,  have  been  frequently  flushed  during  our 
maich.  Smaller  birds  are  not  very  numerous.  The  heat  of  the 
sun  has  been  extremely  oppressive. 

A.t  one  o'clock,  v.  m.,  we  reached  a  small  grove,  composed  of 
a  few  oaks,  cotton-wood,  maple,  and  hickory  trees,  on  the  banks 
of  a  small  branch,  (head  of  Blue  Creek,)  where  we  encamped 
for  the  day.  The  wagons,  in  forming  the  encampment,  were 
what  is  called  corraled,  an  anglicised  Spanish  word,  the  signifi- 
cance of  which,  in  our  use  of  the  term,  is,  that  they  vv  ere  formed 
in  a  circle ;  constituting  a  wall  of  defence  in  the  event  of  an 
attack  from  the  Indians,  and  a  pound  for  the  confinement  of  the 
cattle  and  horses,  whenever  necessary  or  desirable.  A  Spanish 
corral  is  a  common  cattle  or  horse  pound.  The  area  of  this 
circle  is  sufficiently  large  to  graze,  during  the  night,  such  horses 
and  cattle  as  are  most  likely  to  stray,  if  not  thus  confined.  On 
the  outside  of  the  corral  the  tents  are  pitched,  with  their  doors 
outwaids ;  and  in  front  of  these  the  camp-fires  are  lighted,  and 
the  culinary  operations  for  the  several  families,  or  messes,  per- 
formed. 

This  afternoon  the  company  was  divided  into  four  sections, 
and  a  leader  for  each  was  appointed,  to  superintend  their  order 
of  march.  Several  subordinate  or  stafi"  officers  were  appointed, 
as  assistants  to  the  captain,  etc.,  etc.  Regular  guard-duty  was 
established,  and  our  organization,  theoretically,  appeared  to  be 
very  perfect,  and  entirely  sufficient  for  all  the  purposes  requhed 
of  it.     Distance,  six  miles. 

May  13. — Brownell,  our  driver,  having  left  camp  last  night, 
to  ride  a  distance  of  ten  or  twelve  miles  on  some  business,  did 
not  return  until  after  we  had  commenced  our  march.  It  was 
not  without  great  trouble  that  we  collected  our  oxen,  and  sue- 


34  SANTA   FE  TRADERS.  • 

ceeded  in  attaching  them  to  the  wagons.  Nuttall  volunteeied 
to  act  as  driver  pro  tern,  for  the  day,  or  until  Brownell  returned. 

Our  march  was  along  the  Santa  Fe  trail,  through  an  undu- 
lating prairie-country,  occasionally  dotted  with  a  few  trees  and 
clumps  of  small  hazel-bushes.  But  generally  there  was  no 
object  for  the  eye  to  rest  upon  but  the  green  and  flowery  slopes 
and  gentle  and  ever-varying  irregularities  in  the  surface  of  the 
prairie.  About  one  o'clock  we  passed  what  is  called  the  "  Lone 
Elm,"  a  solitary  tree,  standing  near  a  pool  of  water. 

I  met,  this  afternoon,  three  retmniing  Santa  Fe  trading-com- 
jjanies ;  two  of  them  with  three  or  foui-  wagons,  and  the  other 
with  twelve  wagons,  all  drawn  by  mules.  They  were  driving 
before  them  several  large  herds  of  mules,  in  the  aggregate  about 
one  thousand.  The  mules  were  so  lean  that  the  ribs  of  most 
of  them  were  defined  with  precision,  and  the  bones  of  some  of 
them  appeai'ed  to  have  worn  through  the  flesh.  I  never  saw  a 
more  ghostlj^  collection  of  animals.  The  operative  men  com- 
posing these  companies  were  principally  New-Mexicans ;  the 
chiefs  of  the  parties,  however,  were  Americans.  They  all  pre- 
sented a  most  fagged  and  worn  appearance. 

I  stopped  and  convei'sed  some  time  with  one  of  the  leading 
men  of  these  companies.  He  was  intelligent,  notwithstanding 
his  soiled  and  ragged  costume,  and  appeared  to  be  very  candid 
in  all  his  statements.  He  said  that  the  principal  part  of  the 
mules  had  been  driven  from  Chihuahua,  and  cost  there  twenty 
dollars  per  head  ;  that  they  were  taken  in  exchange  for  such 
commodities  as  had  been  carried  out  with  them,  and  he  ex- 
pected to  dispose  of  them  at  a  profit  on  his  arrival  in  the 
settlements  of  Missouri.  He  said  that  the  journey  to  Santa  Fe 
and  Chihuahua  was  one  of  great  fatigue  and  hardsliip,  as  he 
knew,  but  that  tlie  journey  to  California  was  infinitely  more  so ; 
that  our  lives  would  be  shortened  ten  years  by  the  trip,  and 
before  we  returned,  if  we  experienced  such  good  fortune,  our 
heads  would  be  white,  not  with  the  frosts  of  age,  but  from  the 
effects  of  exposure  and  exLieme  hardships.  This  was  not  very 
cheering  informaticn,  and  bidding  him  a  polite  good-day,  we 
left  him. 


WILD    ONIONS.  8* 

About  4  o'clock,  p.  M.,  I  reached  the  point  where  I  supposed 
i/he  Oregon  trail  diverged  from  the  Santa  Fe  road.  It  was 
raining  copiously.  At  some  distance  in  the  prairie,  I  saw  a 
man  mounted  on  a  horse,  with  a  loose  mule  feeding  near  him. 
Supposing  him  to  be  a  member  of  some  of  the  front  emigrating 
parties,  I  rode  up  to  him  and  inquired  the  probable  distance 
to  the  next  camping-ground.  He  was  a  man  of  that  non-com- 
mittal order  sometimes  met  with,  from  whom  no  satisfactory  or 
explanatory  information  can  be  drawn  by  any  inquiry,  however 
pointed.  He  appeared  to  be  afraid  of  exposing  his  own  igno- 
rance by  committing  himself  in  any  direct  reply ;  and  in  a  vain 
effort  to  seem  eminently  wise  and  discreet,  his  affii-mative  re- 
sponses were  rebutted  by  such  a  volume  of  negative  qualifica- 
tions and  reservations,  that  he  was  entirely  incomprehensible. 

The  rain  had  abated  before  this  unsatisfactory  colloquy  was 
ended,  and  a  bright  rainbow  was  formed  in  the  east,  the  arch 
of  which  was  not  raised  more  than  one  degree  above  the  hori- 
zon. Our  train  of  wagons  coming  up,  we  continued  on  the 
Santa  Fe  trail  four  miles  farther,  when  we  left  it  on  the  right 
hand,  and  soon  afterwards  crossing  a  small  creek  with  high  and 
steep  banks,  we  encamped  on  the  western  side  of  it,  in  a  small 
grove  which  fringes  the  margin  of  the  stream.  Large  quanti- 
ties of  wild  onions  were  gathered  by  many  of  our  party  to-day, 
and  being  cooked  with  their  bacon,  composed  the  vegetable 
portion  of  their  evening  meal.  Their  odor  is  rank,  and  any  thing 
but  agreeable.  The  rain  recommenced  falling  before  we  could 
pitch  our  tent,  heavily  and  steadily,  with  every  prospect  of  a 
stormy  night.     Distance  16  miles. 

May  14. — The  rain  of  yesterday  and  last  night  has  again  so 
much  saturated  and  softened  the  ground,  as  to  render  travelhng 
with  wheels  very  difficult. 

The  first  mile  and  a  half  of  our  route  was  through  the  tim- 
bered bottom  of  the  branch  on  which  we  had  encamped.  Our 
progress  through  this  was  very  greatly  obstructed  by  the  un- 
evenness  of  the  ground  and  its  soft  and  miry  condition.  We 
were  frequently  obliged  to  fell  trees  and  to  cut  down  large 
quantities  of  small  binish  and  throw  them  into  the  muddy  ra- 


36  DIFFICULT    CROSSINGS. 

vines,  in  order  to  enable  our  animals  and  wagons  to  pass  over 
them.  These  difficulties  operate  as  serious  discouragements 
upon  the  energies  of  mai  /,  but  I  look  for  a  better  road  before 
we  advance  a  great  distance.  Throughout  the  day  the  tra^^;l- 
ling  has  been  very  fatiguing  to  our  oxen,  the  wagons  frequently 
stalling  in  the  mud-holes  and  the  crossings  of  the  small  branches. 
Three  or  four  hours  were  occupied  in  fording  a  diminutive  tribu- 
tary of  the  Wakarusa  creek.  Tlie  banks  on  the  eastern  side 
are  so  steep,  that  the  wagons  were  let  down  Avith  ropes,  and 
the  teams  were  doubled,  sometimes  quadrupled,  in  order  to 
draw  them  up  on  the  other  side. 

The  largest  portion  of  our  train  reached  the  banks  of  the 
Wakarusa  about  5  o'clock,  and  encamped  on  a  sloping  lawn  in 
a  curve  of  the  stream,  carpeted  with  verdant  and  luxmiant  grass. 
A  grove  of  small  trees  (oak,  hickory,  dogwood,  and  willows) 
nearly  surrounds  our  camp.  Their  foliage  is  of  the  deepest 
green,  and  flowers  of  all  the  brilliant,  and  the  softer  and  more 
modest  hues,  enliven  the  landscape  around  us.  The  face  of  the 
country  over  which  we  have  travelled  to-day,  has  been  more 
broken  and  picturesque  than  yesterday.  We  passed  during 
our  march  an  elevated  conical  swell  of  the  plain,  which  I  as- 
cended ;  and  the  view  from  it  was  one  of  commanding  extent 
and  great  richness  and  beauty.  The  configuration  of  the  vast 
diameter  of  the  plain  which  can  be  observed  from  this,  presents 
all  the  graceful  and  gentle  curves,  and  the  delicate  shading  and 
coloring  that  would  charm  the  enthusiastic  landscape  artist  in 
his  dreaming  sketches. 

A  number  of  wagons  being  behind  at  dark,  a  party  was 
formed  and  returned  on  the  trail  to  their  assistance.  We  found 
two  or  three  of  the  wagons  stalled  in  the  deep  mud,  and  the 
tongue  of  one  of  them,  belonging  to  some  highly  worthy  young 
men  from  Lexington,  Ky.,  named  Putnam,  was  broken.  After 
groat  exertions  they  were  all  drawn  out  and  up  to  the  camp, 
but  it  was  near  midnight  before  this  was  accomplished.  Dis- 
tance 15  miles. 

May  15. — A  Polawattomie  Indian,  accompanied  by  a  hall- 
breed  who  r.poke  English  correctly,  came  to  our  camp  early 


MORE    INDIANS.  87 

this  morcLig.  The  Potawattomie  was  a  tall,  athletic  young 
man  of  a  syraraetrlcal  figure,  and  rode  a  fat  and  handsome  In- 
dian pony,  which  several  of  our  party  made  overtures  to  pur- 
chccse,  but  they  were  not  successful.  He  was  dressed  in  a 
calico  shirt,  with  buckskin  pantaloons,  gaiters,  and  moccasins. 
He  brought  with  him  several  pairs  of  moccasins,  some  of  them 
second-hand,  which  he  wished  to  trade  for  meat.  He  soon  sold 
Dut  his  small  stock  of  wares  and  left  us.  The  morning  was 
spent  in  cleaning  our  rifles  and  pistols,  which  had  become  rusty 
and  foul  from  the  frequent  rains. 

In  the  afternoon  we  were  joined  by  Ex-governor  Boggs,  of 
Missouri,  and  Colonel  Thornton  and  another  gentleman  from 
Illinois.  The  general  reason  assigned  for  emigration  to  the 
Pacific,  by  those  from  the  frontier  settlements  of  IlUnois  and 
Missouri,  is  the  extreme  unhealthiness  of  those  districts.  They 
state  that  during  the  summer  and  autumnal  months  they  are 
afiiicted  with  the  ague  and  fever ;  and  of  late  years,  in  the  win- 
ter season,  the  congestive  fever  prevails,  and  sometimes  it  is  so 
fatal  in  its  ravages  as  nearly  to  depopulate  whole  neighbor- 
hoods. They  emigrate  to  the  Pacific  in  search  of  health,  and 
if  they  can  find  this  with  a  reasonable  fertility  of  soil  on  their 
irrival,  they  will  not  only  be  satisfied  but  feel  thankful  to  Prov- 
idence for  providing  them  such  a  retreat  from  the  miseries  they 
have  endured. 

In  the  afternoon  we  crosodd  the  Wakarusa  creek,  and  en- 
camped on  the  opposite  bank  in  a  grove  of  large  timber.  Sev- 
eral Shawnee  Indians  came  to  our  camp  in  the  evening ;  one  of 
whom,  calUng  himself  John  Wolf,  spoke  English.  They  begged 
for  whiskey.     Distance  1  mile. 

May  16. — Several  Potawattomie  Indians,  male  and  female, 
visited  our  camp  this  morning.  None  of  them  spoke  Enghsh. 
They  could,  however,  pronounce  the  word  "  whiskey,"  and  ut- 
tering this  and  at  the  same  time  exhibiting  small  pieces  of  silver, 
was  the  common  salutation  of  these  miserably-clad,  half-starved 
creatures.  They  excited  mingled  emotions  of  loathing  and 
commi»3ration.  John  Wolf,  the  Shawnee,  whose  acquaintance 
I  made  yesterday,  apphed  to  me  to  indite  for  him  a  letter,  and 


38  SOLITUDE  OF  THE  PRAIRIE. 

to  cany  it  westward  to  some  gi  jat  Indian  captain  of  his  tiibe. 
The  letter,  written  from  his  d  otation,  was  only  four  lines  in 
'ength.  It  informed  his  friend  that  two  Shawnee  chiefs,  named 
Henry  Clay  and  Ben  Kiasas,  and  a  sister  of  the  Indian  addressed, 
named  Black  Poddee,  were  dead.  I  folded,  sealed,  and  super- 
scribed the  letter,  but  I  could  never  hear  of  the  friend  of  John 
Wolf,  and  consequently  the  brief  epistle  was  never  dehvered. 

The  grove  in  which  we  were  encamped  presented,  this  morn- 
ing, a  most  noisy  and  animated  scene.  The  oxen  belonging  to 
our  teams,  and  in  daily  use,  now  number  about  seven  hundred  ; 
and  the  mules,  horses,  and  other  loose  animals,  amount  to  three 
hundred,  numbering,  in  the  aggregate,  one  thousand  head  of 
cattle  and  horses.  "  Gee-up  !"  "  gee-haw  !"  and  "  whoa- 
haw !"  with  incessant  cracks  of  the  whip,  resounded  on  all 
sides,  as  soon  as  the  word  to  "  catch  up"  was  given.  As  usual, 
a  portion  of  the  cattle  could  not  be  found  when  wanted,  not- 
withstanding a  guard  had  been  placed  over  them  during  the 
night ;  and  it  was  ten  o'clock,  a.  m.,  before  the  rear  division  of 
the  train  left  the  encampment. 

Our  route,  with  the  exception  of  the  low  rich  bottom  of  the 
Wakarusa,  has  been  over  the  high  rolling  prairie.  In  the  far 
distance  we  could  see  the  narrow  dark  lines  of  timber,  indicating 
the  channels  of  the  small  water-courses,  stretching  far  away, 
until  lost  in  the  haze,  or  concealed  from  our  \new  by  the  inter- 
position of  the  horizon.  Some  of  the  slopes  of  the  plain,  in  the 
perspective,  were  beautifully  ornamented  with  clumps  and  rows 
of  trees,  representing  the  parks,  avenues,  and  pleasure-grounds 
of  some  princely  mansion,  which  the  imagination  was  continually 
conjecturing  might  be  hidden  behind  tlieir  dense  fohage.  Not" 
a  hving  or  moving  object  of  any  kind  appears  upon  the  face  of 
the  vast  expanse.  The  while-topped  wagons,  and  the  men  and 
animals  belonging  to  them,  winding  slowly  over  the  hill-tops 
and  through  the  hollows,  are  the  only  rehef  to  the  motionless 
torpor  and  tomblike  stillness  of  the  landscape.  A  lovcUer  scene 
was  never  gjized  uj)on,  nor  one  of  more  profound  solitude. 

A  short  time  before  we  encamped,  this  afternoon,  a  small 
party  of  Indiana  were  seen  in  a  hollow  about  a  mile  to  our  right 


NBWS  OP  WAR  WITH  MEXICO.  39 

We  n)de  to  them,  and  ascertained  them  to  be  Kachinga,  a  chief 
of  the  Kansas  tribe,  two  warriors,  and  two  squaws,  with  their 
famihes  of  children.  They  were  here  encamped,  their  tents 
being  smoke- colored  skins  sewn  together,  and  raised  on  small 
sticks,  about  two  feet  from  the  ground.  Kachinga  carried  a 
rifle,  which  appeared  to  be  new.  He  did  not  seem  to  under- 
stand veiy  well  the  use  of  it.  He  was  rouged  with  vermilion 
paint,  and  his  hair  was  shorn  to  the  skin,  except  a  small  tuft  on 
the  crown  of  his  head,  and  under  his  chin.  He  wore,  suspended 
by  a  buckskin  string  from  his  neck,  two  medals,  one  represent- 
ing, in  alto  relievo,  the  hkeness  of  Thomas  Jefferson,  President 
of  the  United  States.  The  other  medal,  the  device  on  which  I 
do  not  recollect,  purported,  from  the  inscription,  to  have  been 
presented  to  him  by  a  citizen  of  Hartford,  Ct., — evidently  a 
"  Yankee  notion."  Kachinga  appeared  to  be  a  man  of  about 
sixty,  and  the  expression  of  his  countenance  and  his  general 
appearance  were  prepossessing.  The  two  squaws  were 
miserable-looking  objects  in  their  features,  figures,  and  cloth- 
ing. The  Indians  broke  up  their  encampment  when  we  left 
them,  and  soon  overtaking  our  train,  travelled  along  with  us. 
The  two  squaws  had  each  a  pony,  heavily  laden  with  baggage. 
The  children  were  in  a  state  of  nudity*  and  the  infants  were 
carried  by  their  mothers,  being  fastened  to  their  backs  by 
closely-drawn  blankets.  They  came  around  us  while  eating 
supper,  and  begged  something  to  eat,  which  we  gave  them. 
Their  appearance  was  extremely  wretched. 

We  were  overtaken  to-day,  during  our  march,  by  a  man 
belonging  to  one  of  the  forward  trains,  but  who  left  the  settle- 
ments since  we  did.  He  brought  with  him  a  late  number  of  the 
"  St.  Louis  Republican,"  from  the  columns  of  which  we  derived 
intelligence  of  the  first  overt  acts  of  hostility  between  Mexico 
and  the  United  States.  The  paper  contained  an  account  of  the 
defeat  and  capture  of  a  company  of  dragoons  on  the  Rio  Grande, 
under  the  command  of  Captain  Thornton,  by  the  Mexicans,  and 
also  of  the  supposed  critical  situation  of  the  United  States 
troops  composing  the  command  of  General  Z.  Taylor.  Not- 
withstanding this  war  ike  demonstration,  none  of  the  enugrantr 


40  DIFFICULTIES  IN  CAMP. 

to  California,  so  far  as  I  could  learn,  manifested  a  disposition  tc 
turn  back  in  consequence  of  it. 

That  discordance,  arising  from  many  trifling  circumstances 
and  unavoidable  inconveniences,  which  I  had  heard  mentioned 
as  inevitable  concomitants  of  this  journey,  was  displayed  in 
several  instances  to-day.  Many  of  the  men  manifested  much 
petulance,  incivility,  and  the  want  of  a  spirit  of  accommodation. 
In  short,  there  appears  to  be  considerable  wrangling  and  in- 
trigue in  camp,  which  will  probably  result  in  a  division  of  our 
party.     Distance,  12  miles. 

May  17. — The  morning  was  so  delightful  and  the  atmosphere 
so  bracing,  that  I  started  on  foot  in  advance  of  the  train ;  and 
noticing  on  the  right  some  attractive  objects  at  a  distance  of 
two  or  three  miles,  I  left  the  trail,  and  proceeding  towards 
them,  passed  over  two  or  three  elevated  swells  of  the  prairie 
and  through  several  deep  and  lonely  hollows.  In  one  of  the 
latter  I  saw  two  horses  grazing.  My  first  conjecture,  seeing  no 
signs  of  emigrants  or  Indians  about,  was,  that  these  horses  had 
strayed  either  from  our  own  camp  or  from  some  of  the  forward 
emigrating  parties,  and  I  attempted  to  drive  them  before  me ; 
but  they  were  not  to  be  controlled,  running  off  in  a  contrary  di- 
rection, prancing  and  snorting. 

In  the  next  hollow,  through  which  flows  a  small  spring 
branch,  I  saw  the  embers  of  an  Indian  camp-fire,  with  the  low, 
rude  frame  upon  which  their  tent-skins  had  been  spread  sur- 
rounding it.  I  stirred  the  ashes  and  discovered  a  few  live 
coals,  showing  that  the  camp  had  been  occupied  last  night. 
The  diminutive  bottom  bordering  the  miniature  stream  was 
covered  with  hazel  brush,  with  a  few  alders  and  larger  shrub- 
bery. I  crossed  through  the  brush,  and  was  commencing  the 
ascent  on  the  other  side,  when  six  Indians,  movmted  on  horses, 
came  in  siglit  on  tlie  top  of  the  hill,  and  began  to  descend  it. 
They  did  not  discover  me  immediately,  but  as  soon  as  they 
did,  they  halted  on  the  side  of  the  hill.  I  was  sufficiently  near 
to  see  tliat  one  of  them  carried  in  liis  hand  a  broadsword,  with 
a  bright  metal  scabbard,  whicli  glittered  in  tlie  sunbeams.  This 
Indian,  the  foremost  of  the  party,  was  leading  a  horse.     When 

4* 


CNPLEASANT    SURPRISE.  41 

he  saw  me  he  gave  the  horse  m  charge  of  another.  I  had  very 
carelessly,  in  order  to  be  unincumbered  by  weight,  left  all  my 
arms  in  the  wagon,  except  my  hatchet.  I  was  now  several 
miles  distant  from  our  train  and  entirely  concealed  from  them, 
and  there  was  no  probability  of  any  of  our  party  passing  this 
way.  Not  liking  the  manoeuvres  of  the  Indians,  or  knowing 
what  might  be  their  designs,  I  never  felt  more  regret  for  any 
misadventure,  than  for  not  bringing  my  gun  and  pistols  with 
me.  Ascertaining  that  my  hatchet  was  in  a  right  position  for 
use,  if  necessary,  I  advanced  up  the  hill  to  the  place  where  the 
Indians  had  halted,  and  stopped. 

I  ascertained  that  the  party  was  composed  of  three  men  and 
three  squaws.  The  men  were  armed  with  bows  and  arrows 
.md  tomahawks.  The  leader  spoke  to  me  in  English,  and  said, 
'How  do?"  I  replied  and  reciprocated  the  inquiry  in  the 
usual  manner.  He  then  asked,  in  his  broken  English,  if  there 
were  more  white  men  with  me  ?  I  replied  that  there  was  a 
great  number  just  behind.  He  nodded  his  head  and  looked  at 
his  companions  with  an  expression  of  disappointed  intelligence. 
I  asked  him  if  he  was  a  Kansas  ?  His  reply  was,  "  No, — Sac." 
I  then  passed,  leaving  them  standing  and  apparently  in  earnest 
consultation. 

I  was  glad  to  be  reheved  of  their  company,  for  I  felt 
doubtful  of  their  intentions,  and  my  arms  were  insufficient 
for  a  successful  defence  against  them,  if  they  had  made  an  at- 
tack,— from  wliich  I  believe  they  were  deterred  by  the  supposi- 
tion that  my  fellow-travellers  would  immediately  be  upon  them. 
I  rose  the  hill,  and  saw,  at  a  distance  of  about  two  miles,  a  man 
on  horseback  riding  in  such  a  direction  across  the  prairie  that 
I  could  easily  intercept  him.  I  soon  came  up  to  him  and 
found  it  to  be  Mr.  Grayson,  one  of  our  own  company,  out 
hunting.  We  walked  onward,  and  came  up  to  the  caravan 
while  our  party  were  nooning. 

After  procuring  from  our  wagon  some  refreshments,  and  rest- 
ing an  hour,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Curry  I  again  started  a  pe- 
destrian, in  advance  of  the  train  of  wagons,  for  a  walk  of  twelve 
or  fifteen  miles,  the  nearest  point  in  our  route,  to  water.     The 


48  THIRST — ^UNRULY   OXBK 

fresh  breeze  which  had  fanned  us  during  the  forenoon,  died 
away  entirely,  and  the  sun  shone  with  an  almost  scorching  fer- 
vency of  heat,  unmitigated  by  a  soUtary  cloud  on  the  face  of 
the  sky.  The  trail  is  smooth  and  hard,  running  .over  the  high 
table-land  of  the  prairies.  Clumps  and  rows  of  timber  could  be 
seen  at  long  distances,  giving  to  the  background  of  the  scenery 
a  cultivated  and  inhabited  aspect.  The  effects  of  the  intense 
heat,  aggravated  by  the  severe  exercise  of  fast  walking,  became 
uitolerably  oppressive,  and  produced  a  thirst  and  faintness  such 
as  I  had  not  before  experienced.  We  hunted  along  the  roadside 
for  even  a  puddle  of  water  to  moisten  our  mouths  and  throats, 
but  could  discover  none.  Finding  some  prairie  peas,  we  filled 
our  pockets  with  them,  and  their  juice  afforded  a  httle  relief  to 
our  thirst.  At  length  we  arrived  within  the  distance  of  two 
miles  of  a  line  of  timber  on  the  left,  indicative  of  water.  Leaving 
the  trail  we  marched  directly  towards  it,  and  reaclung  its  banks 
we  found  it  to  be  a  small  creek  which  empties  into  the  Kansas 
river,  about  five  miles  distant.  We  satisfied  our  thirst  with 
long  draughts  of  the  tepid  water,  and  then  plunged  into  the 
current  of  the  stream  to  cool  our  almost  broilmg  flesh  and 
purify  our  bodies  from  the  dust  accumulated  upon  them  by  the 
day's  march. 

Refreshing  ourselves,  in  the  manner  above  described,  for  an 
hour,  the  invigorating  effects  of  which  were  most  salutary, 
we  returned  again  to  the  trail,  just  as  the  train  of  wagons 
was  coming  up  and  passing.  Many  of  the  oxen  weie  so  much 
exhausted  that  they  could  with  difficulty  move  forward  at  a 
very  slow  pace.  Their  tongues  were  hanging  out,  and  several 
had  fallen  down,  being  unable  to  proceed.  One  had  died  on 
the  march.  The  order  had  been  given  to  encamp  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  stream,  and  several  of  the  front  wagons  when 
they  reached  it  attempted  to  cross ;  but  the  oxen,  mad  with 
thirst  and  heat,  when  they  came  in  sight  of  the  water,  became 
uncontrollable,  and  ran  down  the  steep  bank  into  the  stream, 
threatening  destruction  to  the  wagons  and  their  contents.  All 
efforts  to  prevail  upon  them  to  leave  the  water  and  ascend  the 
oppofiite  bank,  for  a  long  time,  were  unavailing.     Such  being 


DIVISION  OF  PARTY  48 

the  difficulties,  the  order  was  countermanded,  and  our  camp 
formed  on  the  southeastern  bank  of  the  stream. 

Naar  our  camp  there  is  a  crescent-shaped  chain  of  elevated 
mounds,  the  natural  undulations  of  the  praiiie,  which  I  had 
plainly  seen  this  morning  when  we  commenced  our  march. 
These  mounds  stretch  some  four  or  five  miles,  and  their  bases 
being  precipitous  and  wall-like,  but  for  their  extent,  in  outline 
they  would  represent  the  foundations  and  the  fallen  and  ruined 
superstructure  of  some  vast  temple  or  overthrown  city. 

This  evening,  after  we  had  encamped,  it  appeared  from  a 
speech  delivered  by  Mr.  Dunleavy,  that  a  portion  of  the  company 
had  determined  to  separate  from  the  main  party,  being  dissatis- 
fied with  its  present  organization.     Distance  24  miles. 

May  18. — Mr.  Jacob,  who  had  been  appointed  sub-captain 
of  one  of  our  divisions ;  Mr.  Kirkendall,  who  had  been  appointed 
quartermaster ;  and  Mr.  Greenbury,  our  pilot,  were  dispatched 
early  this  morning  to  a  mission  about  ten  miles  distant  up  the 
Kansas  river,  to  ascertain  if  the  river  was  fordable  at  that 
point.  Colonel  Russell,  our  captain,  rode  to  the  Kansas  ferry, 
five  miles  distant,  to  ascertain  if  the  ferry-boats  were  disengaged, 
and  could,  if  we  deemed  it  expedient  to  cross  here,  ferry  our 
wagons  over  the  river. 

Although  the  morning  was  fine  and  pleasant,  it  clouded  up 
before  eight  o'clock  and  commenced  raining,  accompanied  by 
thunder.  After  considerable  labor  and  difficulty  we  succeeded 
in  crossing  the  creek  without  any  accident,  except  the  breaking 
of  an  axletree  of  one  of  the  wagons  in  descending  the  steep 
bank.  Colonel  Russell  met  us  on  the  opposite  bank,  and,  some 
conversation  ensuing  with  the  leaders  of  the  disaffected  party, 
it  was  proposed  that  the  company  should  divide,  it  being  too 
numerous  and  cumbrous  for  convenient  progress.  Those  who 
were  in  favor  of  remaining  with  the  originally  organized  com- 
pany were  requested  to  move  towards  the  ferry.  Thirty-five 
of  the  wagons  moved  forward,  and  the  remainder  separated 
from  them. 

The  signs  were  so  strongly  indicative  of  a  heav}'  rain,  that  it 
was  thought  imprudent  to  delay  crossing  the  Kansas  until  the 


44  FERRIAGE — BIRTH  OP  TWINS. 

return  of  the  gentlemen  dispatched  up  the  river  this  morning; 
but  that  we  should  proceed  to  the  ferry  and  cross  forthwith, 
The  Kansas,  at  the  ferry,  which  is  owned  by  two  half-breed 
Indians,  is  about  two  hundred  yards  in  width  at  this  time ;  but 
at  some  seasons  of  the  year,  from  its  banks,  it  evidently  is  much 
narrower.  The  approach  to  it,  on  either  side,  is  through  a 
timbered  bottom  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  in  width.  The 
trees  are  chiefly  oak,  linden,  and  hickory.  Hazel  and  a  variety 
of  underbrush  and  grapevines,  make  up  the  small  shiiibbery 
of  the  bottom. 

The  labor  of  ferrying  our  wagons  over  was  commenced  at 
one  o'clock.  The  wagons  were  hauled  as  near  the  boat-landing 
as  they  could  be  by  the  teams,  and  then  with  their  loads  in 
them  were  lifted  and  pushed  into  the  boats  by  the  united 
strength  of  the  men.  By  hard  and  unremitting  toil  the  thirty 
five  wagons,  which  now  constituted  our  train,  were  safely  trans 
ported  to  the  other  side ;  and  all  our  oxen,  hoises,  and  loose 
stock  swam  over,  by  six  o'clock,  p.  m.  The  fee  for  ferriage, 
per  wagon,  was  one  dollar.  Two  boats  are  employed,  and  they 
are  large  enough  to  transport  two  wagons  each  trip.  They  are 
pushed  across  the  stream  with  long  poles  handled  by  Indians, 
All  being  over,  we  moved  forward  about  three  miles  and  en- 
camped on  the  bank  of  Soldier  Creek,  a  small  stream  emptying 
into  the  Kansas. 

While  on  our  march  from  the  Kansas  to  our  encampment, 
Mr.  Branham  and  myself,  being  in  advance  of  the  main  party, 
discovered  an  abundance  of  ripe  strawberries.  We  stopped 
and  gathered  several  quarts,  and,  carrying  them  to  camp,  they 
were  served  up  by  Mrs.  B.,  with  rich  cream  and  loaf-sugar,  a 
genuine  luxury  in  this  wild  region. 

This  morning,  before  we  commenced  our  march,  a  Mrs.  Hall, 
the  wife  of  one  of  the  emigrants,  was  safely  delivered  of  a  paii 
of  twins.  Thus  two  were  added  to  our  number.  These  young 
natives  of  the  wilderness  were  appropriately  named.  The 
mother  and  children  were  doinjr  well  this  eveninjj. 

Mr.  Webb,  editor  of  "the  "Independence  Expositor,"  accom- 
panied by  Mr.  Hay,  a  great-grandson  of  Daniel  Boone,  arrived 


METHODIST  MISSION.  46 

at  our  camp,  dii-ect  from  the  settlements,  just  after  dark.  They 
came  express  to  communicate  to  us  the  last  intelligence  we  shall 
receive  from  the  United  States,  before  reaching  the  Pacific. 
They  brought  with  them  all  the  letters  at  the  Independence 
and  Westport  post-offices  addressed  to  emigrants,  and  several 
files  of  papers  to  the  latest  dates.  These  gave  positive  infor- 
mation of  the  existence  of  hostilities  between  Mexico  and  the 
United  States  on  the  Rio  Grande,  and  confirmed  the  rumor 
respecting  the  perilous  situation  of  Gen.  Taylor.  How  this 
important  event  is  to  affect  us  upon  our  arrival  in  California,  it 
is  impossible  to  foresee.  No  one,  however,  is  in  the  least  dis- 
posed to  turn  back  in  consequence  of  it.     Distance  10  miles. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Methodist  Mission  on  the  Kansas — Soldier  Creek — Lustration — A  ruined 
Indian  town — A  rose  in  the  wilderness — Another  division — Kansas 
Indian  towns — Ki-he-ga-wa-chuck-ee — Prairie  potato — Mountain  trap- 
pers— Beauty  of  scenery  and  fertility  of  soil — Vermilion  Creek — Brilliant 
meteor — Big  Blue  River — Prairie-pea — Legislation  on  the  prairies 

Mat  19. — We  remained  encamped  to-day,  in  order  to  enable 
Mr.  Boone,  a  grandson  of  Daniel  Boone,  and  his  family  and 
party,  who  wish  to  join  us,  to  come  up.  Messrs.  Kirkendall, 
Jacob,  and  Greenbury,  reached  camp  this  morning  about  seven 
o'clock,  relieving  me  of  some  uneasiness  on  their  account.  They 
had  found  a  ford,  near  the  mission,  about  twelve  miles  up  the 
Kansas ;  but  when  they  returned  to  the  ferry,  finding  that  our 
train  had  all  passed  over,  and  it  being  late,  they  remained  during 
the  night  with  the  party  that  separated  from  us  this  morning. 
Tlie  mission  which  they  had  visited,  and  at  which  they  were 
well  received  and  entertained,  is  an  establishment  for  the  edu- 
cation and  christianization  of  the  Indians,  supported  in  part  by 
the  United  States  government,  and  under  the  patronage  and 


46  SOLDIER  CREEK LUSTRATION 

superintendence  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal "  Church  of  the 
United  States.  There  is  a  blacksmith's  shop  at  the  mission, 
and  an  extensive  farm  under  cultivation. 

The  stream  on  which  we  are  encamped  is  called  "  Si  <Idier 
Creek,"  from  the  circumstance,  as  I  learned,  that,  some  years 
since  a  company  of  traders  having  smuggled  into  the  Indian 
territoiy  a  quantity  of  whiskey,  were  pursued  by  a  detachment 
of  United  States  soldiers,  and  overtaken  at  the  spot  where  our 
wagons  are  formed  into  a  corral.  Their  whiskey  was  taken  and 
emptied  into  the  stream ;  and  the  soldiers  having  encamped 
here  during  these  proceedings,  gave  its  present  name  to  the 
creek.  The  bank  of  the  small  rivulet  was  hned  at  an  early 
hour  after  breakfast  with  fires,  kettles,  washtubs,  and  piles  of 
unwashed  linen,  showing  conclusively  that  a  general  lustration 
was  to  be  performed  by  the  female  portion  of  our  party.  The 
timber  on  the  creek  consists  of  oak,  linden,  and  some  maple 
trees.  They  are  of  good  size,  and  in  several  places  the  bends  of 
the  stream  are  well  covered  with  them.  I  had  heard  reports 
of  the  creek  being  richly  stocked  with  a  variety  of  fish ;  but 
after  two  trials  of  several  hours  each,  without  a  single  nibble  at 
my  hook,  I  was  compelled  to  entertain  strong  doubts  of  the 
accuracy  of  the  reports.  The  whiskey  poured  into  the  stream 
may  have  poisoned  the  fish,  as  it  would  have  done  the  Indians, 
had  the  traders  been  successful  in  their  designs. 

The  soil  of  the  Kansas  bottom,  and  where  we  are  encamped, 
is  a  rich  argillaceous  loam,  of  great  depth,  and  capable  of  pro- 
ducing any  crop  adapted  to  this  latitude.  The  natural  grasses 
grow  with  great  luxuriance,  but  they  are  of  a  coarse  species,  and 
when  matuied  must  be  rather  tough,  and  not  very  nutritious. 

A  new  census  of  our  party  was  taken  this  morning,  and  it  was 
found  to  consist  of  98  fighting-men,  60  women,  46  wagons,  and 
350  cattle.  Two  divisions  were  made  of  the  wagons,  for  con- 
venience in  marching.  We  were  joined  to-day  by  nine  wagons 
from  Illinois,  belonging  to  Mr.  Reed  and  the  Messrs.  Donner, 
highly  respectable  and  intelligent  gentlemen,  with  interesting 
families.     Thej  were  received  into  the  company  by  a  unanimoui 


RUINED  INDIAN  TOWN  41 

A  Kansas  Indian  village  was  visible  from  our  camp  on  thj 
plain  to  tlie  south,  at  a  distance  of  two  or  three  miles.  As  sooi 
as  the  sun  was  sufficiently  low  in  the  afternoon,  accompanied 
by  Jacob,  I  visited  this  village.  The  walk  was  much  longer 
and  more  fatiguing  than  we  expected  to  find  it.  While  on  the 
way  we  counted,  for  a  certainty,  on  our  arrival,  to  be  received 
and  entertained  by  the  female  4lite  of  the  Kansas  aristocracy, 
clad  in  their  smoke-colored  skin  costumes,  and  with  their 
copper  complexions  rouged  until  they  vied,  in  their  fiery  splen- 
dors, with  the  sun,  seen  through  a  vapor  of  smoke.  We  carried 
some  vermilion  and  beads  along  with  us  for  presents,  to  orna- 
ment the  most  unadorned,  in  accordance  with  the  taste  of  the 
savages.  But,  alas !  after  all  our  toil,  throuo^h  the  lank  and 
tangled  grass,  when  we  approached  the  village  not  a  soul  came 
out  to  welcome  us.  No  Kansas  belle  or  stern  chief  made  her 
or  his  appearance  at  the  doors  of  any  of  the  wigwams.  We 
entered  the  village,  and  found  it  entirely  deserted  and  desolate, 
and  most  of  the  wigwams  in  a  ruinous  state. 

A  large  wigwam,  or  cabin,  near  the  centre  of  the  village, 
had  recently  been  burnt  to  the  ground.  The  whole  number 
of  the  buildings  standing  was  fourteen.  They  varied  in 
dimensions,  from  twenty  to  thirty-six  feet  in  length,  by  fifteen 
in  breadth.  The  cabins  are  constructed  by  insertmg  in  the 
groimd  hickory  saplings,  and  bending  them  so  as  to  form  an 
arch  about  eight  or  ten  feet  in  height  at  the  top.  These  sap- 
lings are  bound  firmly  together  by  willow  twigs,  making  a 
strong,  though  light  framework.  This  frame  is  shingled  over 
with  bark,  peeled  from  the  hnden  and  other  large  trees,  in  strips 
of  about  twelve  inches  in  breadth  and  five  feet  in  length.  Over 
this  is  another  frame  of  sapHngs  and  willow-Avithes,  securing 
the  roof  and  walls,  and  binding  the  whole  building  together. 
Each  cabin  has  one  small  entrance,  ^bout  four  feet  in  height, 
and  three  feet  in  breadth.  We  passed  through,  and  examined 
four  or  five  of  them.  The  bark-walls,  on  the  inside,  were  orna- 
mented with  numerous  charcoal-sketches,  representing  horses ; 
horses  with  men  mounted  upon  them,  and  engaged  in  combat 
with  the  bow  and  arrow ;  horses  attached  to  wagons ;  and,  in 


18  ROSE  IN  THE  WILDERNESS 

one  instance,  horses  drawing  a  coach.  Another  group  repre- 
sented a  plow,  drawn  by  oxen.  There  were  various  other 
figures  of  beasts  and  reptiles,  and  some  which  I  conjectured  to 
be  the  Evil  Spirit  of  the  Indian  mythology.  But  they  were  all 
done  in  a  style  so  rude,  as  to  show  no  great  progress  in  the  fine 
arts.  None  of  the  cabins  which  we  entered  contained  a  sohtary 
article  of  any  kind.  I  returned  to  our  camp,  disappointed  in 
my  expectations  of  meeting  the  Indians  at  their  village,  and 
saddened  by  the  scene  of  desolation  I  had  witnessed. 

In  reference  to  the  present  number  of  the  Kansas  tribe  of 
Indians,  I  could  obtain  httle  satisfactory  information.  They 
appear  to  be  wretchedly  poor.  The  country  they  claim  as 
theirs,  and  inhabit,  affords  Uttle  or  no  game  ;  and  so  far  as  my 
observation  has  extended,  they  give  no  attention  to  agriculture. 
The  number  of  warriors  which  the  tribe  can  assemble,  I  heard 
estimated  at  three  hundred  ;  but  I  have  no  means  of  judging  of 
the  accuracy  of  this  estimate. 

May  20. — Our  driver  was  helplessly  sick  this  morning  from 
the  efiects  of  an  over-night's  drunken  frohc,  upon  some  wretched, 
adulterated  whiskey  which  he  had  procured  somewhere  in  the 
camp.  We  were  compelled  to  employ  a  new  driver  for  the  day, 
and  to  haul  om*  old  one  in  the  wagon. 

We  travelled  several  miles  over  a  flat  plain,  in  some  places 
wet  and  boggy.  The  Kansas  river  skirted  with  timber,  with  a 
rich  and  extensive  landscape  beyond,  could  be  seen  on  our  left  • 
and  on  our  right  Soldier  Creek,  with  scenery  equally  attractive. 

I  saw  near  the  trail  this  morning,  a  solitary  wild  rose,  the  first 
I  have  seen  blooming  in  the  prairies,  the  delightful  fragrance  of 
which  instantly  excited  emotions  of  sadness  and  tenderness,  by 
reviving  in  the  memory  a  thousand  associations  connected  with 
home,  and  friends,  and  civilization,  all  of  which  we  had  left 
behind,  for  a  weary  journey  through  a  desolate  wilderness.  It 
is  not  possible  to  describe  the  effect  upon  the  sensibihties  pro- 
duced by  this  modest  and  lonely  flower.  The  perfume  exhaled 
from  its  petals  and  ein-ichiiig  the  "  desert  air,"  addressed  a 
language  to  the  heart  more  tlirilling  than  the  plaintive  and  im- 
passioned accents  from  the  iuspued  voice  of  music  or  poesy. 


THUNDER-STORM.  49 

We  encamped  at  3  o'clock,  p.  m.,  in  a  heavy  rain,  accom- 
panied by  thunder  and  lightning,  which  had  been  pouring  down 
upon  us  three  houi-s.  Our  camp  is  on  the  high  ground  of  the 
prairies,  a  mile  from  wood  and  water,  which  necessaiy  articles 
have  to  be  hauled  to  it  in  the  rain  and  through  the  deep 
mud. 

The  Indians  have,  thus  far,  made  no  attempts  to  steal  oui 
cattle.  They  generally  keep  a  respectful  distance,  showing 
themselves  in  small  numbers  on  the  summits  of  the  prairie, 
adjacent  to  the  route  of  our  train.  I  watched  to-night  until  one 
o'clock.  The  howls  and  sharp  snarling  barks  of  the  wolves ; 
the  mournful  hootings  of  the  owl,  and  the  rush  of  the  winds 
through  the  tree-tops  of  the  neighboring  grove,  are  the  only 
sounds  disturbing  the  deep  solitude  of  the  night.  Distance 
eight  miles. 

May  21. — The  views  from  the  high  elevations  of  the  prairie, 
have,  as  usual,  been  stiikingly  picturesque.  The  country  we 
have  passed  through  for  the  last  one  hundred  miies,  presents 
greater  attractions  to  the  eye  than  any  that  I  have  ever  previ- 
ously seen.  What  the  climate  may  be  in  winter,  or  how  it 
may  effect  the  health  of  settlers  in  summer  and  autumn,  I  have 
no  means  of  judging.  Its  elevated  and  \mdulating  sm-face, 
however,  would  seem  to  indicate  salubrity. 

About  noon  we  arrived  at  another  small  creek,  the  banks  of 
which  on  both  sides  are  steep,  and  very  difficult  to  pass.  Our 
wagons  were  low^ered  down  by  ropes,  and  by  doubling  teams, 
they  were  all  finally  drawn  out  of  the  bed  of  the  stream,  and 
lip  the  opposite  bank.  It  was  four  o'clock  when  this  was  ac- 
complished. We  encamped  in  a  bend  of  the  stream,  about  a 
mile  from  where  we  crossed  it. 

The  day  has  been  delightfiil,  and  a  more  cheerful  spirit  seems 
to  prevail  in  our  party  than  usual.  Mr.  Boone,  whom  we  have 
been  expecting  several  days,  came  up  and  joined  us  this  after- 
noon. The  men  amused  themselves,  after  we  encamped,  by 
firing  at  a  target.  The  distances  were  80  and  200  yards. 
Among  the  best  shots,  with  the  rifle,  were  those  of  Brown  of 
Lexington,  Ky.     At  dark  our  cattle  were  driven  into  the  corra} 

6 


50  KANSAS    INDIANS. 

to  prevent  them  from  straying,  and  from  being  stolen  by  th« 
Indians.     Distance  6  miles. 

May  22. — This  morning  thirteen  wagons,  about  half  of  which 
belonged  to  Mr.  Gordon,  of  Jackson  county,  Mo.,  separated  from 
the  main  party,  assigning  as  a  reason  therefor,  that  the  com- 
pany was  too  large,  and  that  as  a  consequence  of  this,  our 
progress  was  too  slow  for  them.  This  is  the  second  division  in 
our  party  which  has  taken  place  since  we  started,  and  there  is 
a  strong  probability  that  soon  there  will  be  others.  A  restless- 
ness of  disposition,  and  dissatisfaction  from  trivial  causes,  lead 
to  these  frequent  changes  among  the  emigrating  parties. 

The  trail  along  which  we  have  travelled  to-day,  has  been  drj , 
compact,  and  easy  for  our  teams.  It  runs  over  a  high  undulating 
country,  exhibiting  a  great  variety  of  rich  scenery.  As  the 
traveller  rises  the  elevated  swells  of  the  prairie,  his  eye  can 
frequently  take  in  at  a  glance,  a  diameter  of  60  or  80  miles 
of  country,  all  clothed  at  this  season  with  the  deepest  verdure, 
and  the  most  luxxuiant  vegetation.  We  encamped  for  the  day 
on  what  was  called  by  some  "  Black  Paint"  Creek,  by  others 
"  Sandy,"  a  tributary  of  the  Kansas  river.  The  bottom  on 
either  side  of  the  creek,  is  timbered  with  large  and  handsomely- 
shaped  oaks 

Mr.  Kirkendall  and  myself  were  two  or  three  miles  in  ad- 
vance of  our  train,  when  we  commenced  winding  through  the 
ravines  of  the  bluffs,  in  order  to  descend  to  the  bottom-lands 
bordering  the  stream.  We  were  met  here  by  four  young  In- 
dians, apparently  riding  a  race.  They  were  mounted  on  fat 
ponies,  which  they  urged  forward  at  their  highest  powers  of 
speed,  until  coming  up  to  us  they  drew  their  horses  in,  and 
passing  by  a  short  distance,  wheeled  about  and  rode  along  at  our 
side  to  tlie  bank  of  tlie  stream.  Here  we  met  some  forty  or 
fifty  more  Indians,  and  we  soon  discovered  that  about  two  mile* 
below  there  were  two  large  Kansas  villages. 

One  of  those  whom  we  met  at  the  creek  was  a  very  hand 
some  young  man,  (a  chief,)  whose  dress  was  much  more  cleanly 
and  of  better  materials  than  his  followers  or  associates.     He 
carried  in  his  hand  a  small  looking-glass,  which  he  consulted 


THISIR  DRESS  AND  PERSONAL  APPEARANCE.  51 

with  great  frequency  and  earnestness,  evidently  much  pleased 
with  his  personal  appearance.  A  profusion  of  bone  and  tin 
trinkets  ornamented  his  ears,  and  nose,  and  necK.  A  medal 
with  the  likeness  on  one  side  of  "  John  Tyler,  President  of  the 
United  States,"  was  suspended  on  his  breast.  On  the  other 
side  there  was  a  device  of  a  pipe  and  a  tomahawk,  and  the  fol- 
lowing inscription,  "  Peace  and  Friendship."  This  Indian  ap- 
peared to  have  great  influence  over  the  young  men  of  his  tribe. 
I  did  not  learn  his  name. 

Our  train  came  up  and  encamped,  and  it  was  not  long  before 
the  two  villages  appeared  to  be  entirely  emptied  of  their  men, 
women,  and  children.  The  camp  was  filled  and  surroimded 
by  them.  They  numbered  probably  some  four  or  five  him- 
dred.  Those  who  last  came  from  the  villages  were  mostly  in  a 
wretched  condition,  so  far  as  their  clothing  was  concerned.  An 
exceedingly  foul  blanket,  more  than  half  worn,  and  sometimes  in 
tatters,  with  a  pair  of  leggins,  constituted  their  suits  of  gar- 
ments. A  large  portion  of  the  men  were  well-proportioned 
and  above  medium  stature ;  and  the  countenances  of  many 
were  prepossessing  and  intelligent,  if  not  handsome.  Some  of 
them  wore  their  hair  long,  and  it  presented  a  tangled  and  mat- 
ted appearance.  The  heads  of  others  (probably  warriors)  were 
shorn  close  to  the  skin,  except  a  tuft  extending  from  the  fore- 
head over  the  crown  of  the  head  down  to  the  neck,  resembling 
the  comb  of  a  cock.  The  faces  of  many  were  rouged, — some 
in  a  fanciful  manner,  with  vermilion.  The  eyelids  and  lips 
only,  of  several,  were  painted ;  the  cheeks  and  ears  of  others, 
and  the  forehead  and  nose  of  others.  There  appeared  to  be  a 
great  variety  of  tastes  and  no  prevailing  fashion.  I  noticed 
that  the  ears  of  a  great  number  of  the  men  were  bored  with 
four  large  holes  in  each,  so  large  that  the  finger  could  be  passed 
through  the  perforations,  from  which  were  suspended  a  variety 
of  ornaments,  made  of  bone,  tin,  and  brass.  Small  globular 
and  hollow  metal  buttons,  with  balls  in  them,  were  strung 
around  the  neck  or  fastened  to  the  leggins  of  others,  so  that 
every  motion  of  their  bodies  created  a  jingUng  sound. 

Such  as  rode  ponies  were  desirous  of  swapping  them  fortha 


52  KI-HE-GA-WA-CHUCK-EE. 

American  horses  of  the  emiffiants,  or  of  trading  them  for  wliis- 
key.  They  all  appeared  to  be  most  unblushing  and  practised 
beggars.  There  was  scarcely  an  object  which  they  saw,  ft-om 
a  cow  and  calf  to  the  smallest  trinket  or  button  upon  oui 
clothing,  that  they  did  not  request  us  to  present  to  them. 
Bread,  meat,  tobacco,  and  whiskey,  they  continually  asked  for; 
and  the  former  we  gave  to  them,  the  last  we  had  not  to  give — 
and  if  we  had  had  it,  we  should  not  have  given  it.  Among 
these  very  troublesome  visiters  was  Ki-he-ga-wa-chuck-ee. 
(words  importing  "  the  rashly  brave,"  or  "  fool-hardy.")  This 
personage  is  a  principal  chief  of  the  Kansas  tribe.  His  wife  ac- 
companied him.  He  appeared  to  be  a  man  of  about  fifty-five 
years  of  age,  of  commanding  figure,  and  of  rather  an  intellect- 
ual and  pleasing  expression  of  countenance.  I  presented  liis 
squaw,  whose  charms  were  not  of  the  highest  order,  with  a 
dozen  strings  of  glass  beads,  with  which  she  and  her  spouse 
seemed  to  be  much  delighted.  They  both  spoke  and  said, 
"  Good !  very  good  !"  A  turban ;  a  soiled  damask  dressing- 
gown  of  onginally  brilliant  colors,  but  much  faded ;  buckskin 
leggins  and  moccasins,  composed  the  dress  of  Ea-he-ga-wa- 
chuck-ee.  He  wore  the  usual  quantity  of  bone  and  tin  orna- 
ments about  his  ears  and  neck,  and  the  little  jingling  buttons 
or  bells  on  his  legs.     His  face  was  painted  with  vermilion. 

The  reputation  of  the  Kansas  Indians  for  honesty  is  far  froni 
immacidate  among  the  emigrants,  and  a  strong  guard  was 
placed  around  the  camp  and  over  our  cattle,  notwithstanding 
the  pledge  of  Ki-he-ga-wa-chuck-ee,  that  none  of  his  people 
should  steal  from  or  molest  us  in  any  manner.  About  10 
o'clock  at  night,  two  Indians  were  taken  prisoners  by  the  sen- 
tinels on  duty.  They  were  greatly  alarmed  when  brought  to 
tlie  guard-tent,  expecting  immediate  punishment.  An  investi- 
gation took  place,  and  it  turned  out,  that  they  had  come  into 
the  camp  by  appointment  with  some  individual  of  our  party, 
who  liad  promised  to  trade  with  them  for  a  horse,  for  which 
they  were  to  receiv^e  four  gallons  of  whiskey.  Their  motive  in 
coming  late  at  night  was,  that  they  wished  to  conceal  the  trade 
from  the  Indians  generally,  as  in  the  event  of  its  being  known, 


INDIAN    STRATAGEM.  63 

they  would  be  compelled  to  divide  the  whiskey  among  the 
whole  tribe,  whereas  they  wished  to  drink  it  themselves.  The 
tradt!  was  broken  off,  and  the  Indian  captives,  much  to  their  re- 
lief, were  discharged.  Several  of  the  young  men  from  our 
camp  visited  the  nearest  Kansas  village  after  dark.  They  had 
not  been  in  the  village  long,  before  the  cry  of  "  Pawnee !  Paw- 
nee !"  was  raised  by  the  Indians,  and  several  guns  were  dis- 
charged immediately.  This  alarm  was  probably  raised  by  the 
Indians,  to  rid  themselves  of  theh  white  visiters,  and  the  ruse 
was  successful.  The  Pawnees,  as  I  learned,  had  a  short  time 
pre^'iously  made  an  attack  upon  the  Kansas,  and  besides  killing 
a  number  of  the  latter,  had  burnt  one  of  then-  villages.  Distance 
18  mUes. 

May  23. — The  Indians  were  in  and  around  our  camp  before 
we  were  fairly  aroused  from  our  slumbers,  begging  with  great 
vehemence  for  bread  and  meat.  Ki-he-ga-wa-chuck-ee,  and 
his  wife,  took  their  seats  upon  the  ground'  near  our  tent,  it 
being  headquarters,  and  there  remained  until  the  train  was 
ready  to  move.-  In  consideration  of  the  fulfilment  of  the  prom- 
ise of  the  chief  that  nothing  should  be  stolen  from  us  by  his 
people,  a  general  contribution  was  made,  of  flour,  bacon,  and 
sundry  other  articles,  amoVmting  in  the  aggregate  to  a  large 
quantity,  which  was  given  to  the  chief  to  be  divided  as  he  saw 
fit  among  his  people.  This  appeared  to  give  general  satisfac- 
tion to  OUT  visiters,  and  we  left  them  in  the  full  enjoyment  ot 
their  luxuiies. 

The  ford  of  the  small  creek  on  which  we  encamped  last 
night  was  difficult,  owing  to  its  steep  banks  and  muddy  channel. 
We  were  obliged  to  fell  small  trees  and  a  large  quantity  of 
brush,  and  fill  up  the  bed  of  the  stream,  before  the  wagons 
could  pass  over.  Ovir  route  for  several  miles  was  through  a 
highly  fertile  valley,  bounded  on  the  east  by  a  chain  of  moimd- 
shaped  elevations  of  the  prairie,  on  the  west  and  in  front  by 
"  Hurricane  Creek,"  the  timber  skirting  which  is  plentiful  and 
large.  The  most  enthusiastic  votary  of  agriculture  and  a  pas- 
toral life,  could  here,  it  seems  to  me,  realize  the  extent  of  his 
lesires — the  full  perfection  of  rural  scenery,  and  all  the  pleas- 

6* 


54  PRAIRIE    POTATO. 

ures  and  enjoyments  arising  from  the  most  fruitful  reproduction 
in  the  vegetable  and  animal  kingdoms.  Granite,  flint,  and 
sandstone  are  exhibited  in  boulders  and  a  debris  on  the  slopes 
of  the  highest  elevations. 

Several  of  the  Kansas  Indians  followed  us  from  our  last  en- 
campment. One  of  them  presented  to  me  a  root  or  tuber,  of 
on  oval  shape,  about  one  and  one-half  inch  in  length,  and  an 
inch  in  diameter.  This  root  is  called  the  prairie  potato.  lt& 
composition  is  farinaceous  and  highly  nutritious,  and  its  fla- 
vor is  more  agreeable  than  that  of  the  finest  Irish  potato.  I 
have  but  httle  doubt,  if  this  plant  was  cultivated  in  our  gar- 
dens, it  would  be  an  excellent  and  useful  vegetable  for  ordinary 
consumption ;  and  very  probably  it  would  be  so  improved  as  tc 
form  a  substitute  for  the  potato.  The  wild  rose,  which  is  now 
in  full  bloom,  perfumes  the  atmosphere  along  our  route  with  a 
delicious  fragrance.  The  wild  tuhp,  (yellow  and  variegated,) 
a  plume-shaped  white  flower,  and  several  flowers  of  tlie  cam- 
panella  or  bell-shaped  classification,  have  ornamented  the 
prairie  to-day. 

We  crossed  the  creek  on  our  left  at  12  o'clock,  m.  Twc 
hours  were  occupied  in  passing  our  wagons  over  it.  Our  route 
from  the  creek  continued  over  an  open  and  rolling  prairie, 
broken  by  small  branches  and  ravines  ; — the  last  of  which  are 
now  dry,  but  seem  to  serve  as  aqueducts  to  convey  the  water 
from  the  rolUng  plains  to  the  principal  streams  in  rainy  seasons, 
or  dining  the  melting  of  tlie  snows  early  in  the  spring. 

In  the  afternoon,  near  a  small  pond  of  water,  we  met  four 
trappers  from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  returning  to  the  "  settle- 
ments." They  were  accompanied  by  several  Delaware  Indians, 
all  of  whom  spoke  Enghsh  so  as  to  be  vmderstood.  There 
were  suspended  from  the  saddle  of  one  of  the  trappers,  a  wild 
turkey,  a  racoon,  and  several  squirrels,  which  they  had  taken 
last  niglit.  To  acquire  tlie  trapper's  art,  a  long  apprenticeship 
Is  evidently  requisite.  AUliough  the  country  through  which  we 
are  travelling  abounds  in  all  the  natural  vegetable  riches  which 
%  most  generous  soil  can  be  supposed  to  produce  without  culti- 
ration,  we  have  rarely  seen  signs  of  game  of  any  descriptioa 


RICH   AGRICULTURAL    COUNTRY  55 

beast  or  bird.  By  the  mystery  of  their  art,  however,  these 
hunters  of  the  mountains  have  contrived  to  supply  themselves 
with  a  sufficiency  of  meat  to  keep  themselves  from  starvation 
They  were  packing  several  large  sacks  of  fur-skins.  The) 
reported  that  on  the  Platte,  some  one  or  two  hundred  miles  in 
advance  of  us,  there  were  large  herds  of  buffaloes,  and  that  we 
should  experience  no  difficvdty  while  in  this  region  in  supplying 
ourselves  with  fresh  meat.  The  costume  of  these  men  was 
outr^  surpassing  description. 

We  encamped  this  afternoon  in  a  small  depression  of  the 
prairie,  near  a  fine  spring  of  cold  pure  water,  surrounded  by  a 
few  trees.  The  water  of  this  spring  was  as  grateful  to  us  as 
nectar  to  the  fabled  deities  of  heathen  mythology.  Several  of 
the  Kansas  Indians  followed  us  all  day,  and  are  with  us  to- 
night.    Distance  12  miles. 

May  24. — The  first  five  miles  of  our  march  was  over  a  rolling 
prairie  country,  dotted  Avith  occasional  clumps  of  timber.  We 
then  crossed  a  creek  with  a  rapid  and  hmpid  current,  flowing 
over  a  rocky  and  gravelly  bed.  This  stream  would  afford  fine 
water-power  for  mills.  The  banks  above  and  below  the  ford 
are  well  supphed  with  oak,  elm,  and  Unden  trees,  of  good  size  ; 
and  the  land,  which  on  the  western  side  rises  from  the  creek  in 
gentle  undulations,  is  of  the  richest  composition,  and  covered 
with  a  carpet  of  the  greenest  and  most  luxuriant  vegetation. 
We  found  here,  gushing  from  a  ledge  of  limestone  rock,  a 
spring  of  excellent  water,  from  which  we  refreshed  ourselves  in 
draughts  that  would  be  astonishing  to  the  most  fanatical  cold- 
water  advocate. 

Rising  from  the  bottom  of  this  stream,  upon  the  table-land 
the  scenery  for  a  long  distance  to  the  north  and  the  south  is 
surpassingly  attractive.  On  the  eastern  bank  of  the  rivulet,  a 
chain  of  mound-shaped  bluffs  stretches  far  away  to  the  right 
and  the  left,  overlooking  the  gentle  slopes  and  undulations  on 
the  western  side.  It  is  impossible  to  travel  through  this 
country  with  the  utilitarian  eye  and  appreciation  natural  to  all 
Americans,  without  a  sensation  of  regret,  that  an  agricultiiral 
resource  of  such  immense  capacity  as  is  here  supplied  by  a 


66  A  MORE  ELEVATED  COUNTRY. 

bountiful  Providence,  is  so  utterly  neg.  acted  and  waste.  The 
soil,  1  am  persuaded,  is  capable  of  producing  every  variety  of 
crop  adapted  to  this  latitude,  which  enters  into  the  consump- 
tion, and  conduces  to  the  comfort  and  luxury  of  man,  with  a 
generosity  of  reproduction  that  would  appear  almost  marvel- 
lous to  the  farmers  of  many  of  our  agricultural  districts  on  the 
coast  of  the  Atlantic.  This  fair  and  extensive  domain  is  peopled 
by  a  few  wandering,  hal^naked  and  half-starved  Indians,  who 
have  not  the  smallest  appreciation  of  the  great  natural  wealth 
of  the  country  over  which  they  roam  in  quest  of  such  small 
game  as  now  remains,  to  keep  themselves  from  absolute  famine. 
Having  destroyed  or  driven  farther  west  all  the  vast  herds  of 
deer,  elk,  and  buffalo  which  once  subsisted  here  upon  the  rank 
and  nutritious  vegetation,  they  are  now  starving,  and  have 
turned  pensioners  upon  the  government  of  the  United  States, 
and  beggars  of  the  emigrants  passing  west,  for  clothing  and 
food.  •  Beautiful  as  the  country  is,  the  silence  and  desolation 
reigning  over  it  excite  irrepressible  emotions  of  sadness  and 
melancholy. 

Passing  over  the  undulations,  in  a  few  miles  we  discovered, 
on  the  right-hand  of  the  trail,  another  spring  of  cold  water, 
from  which  again  we  refreshed  ourselves.  At  this  point  the 
country  becomes  much  more  elevated,  and  the  view  on  all  sides 
still  more  extensive,  bovmded  by  the  far,  far-off  green  hill-tops, 
without  a  solitary  tree  in  the  vast  expanse.  Where  timber  exists 
on  these  plains,  it  is  usually  in  the  ra\dnes  and  bottoms,  and 
along  the  water-courses,  frequently  entirely  concealed  from  tl\e 
eye  of  the  traveller  when  surveying  the  coimtry  from  the  ridges. 

I  noticed  this  morning,  in  a  ravine  near  our  camp,  a  species 
of  honeysuckle.  Its  blossom  was  white,  and  without  fragrance. 
The  wild  rose,  perfuming  the  atmosphere  witli  its  delicate  and 
delicious  fragrance,  the  swcetbrier,  tulip,  and  tlie  usual  variety 
of  other  flowers,  have  exhibited  themselves  on  our  march. 

The  oxen,  overcome  by  the  extreme  heat  of  tlie  sun  during 
the  marches,  arc  beginning  to  perish.  I  saw  two  dead  oxen 
by  tlie  wayside,  this  morning,  which  belonged  to  some  of  the 
forward  companies. 


SLOW  TRAVBLLING.  67 

We  encamped,  this  afternoon,  in  a  hollow  where  there  is  a 
fine  spring  of  cold,  pure  Avater,  but  no  timber,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  three  elm-trees.  A  dead  and  fallen  elm  has  been  drawn 
to  our  camp,  and  di\aded  among  the  several  messes  for  fuel. 
This  tree  was  entirely  consumed  by  us,  and  the  next  three 
emigrating  parties  wUl  consimie  the  three  standing  elms.  Our 
progress  is  very  slow.  But  notwithstanding  this,  many  of  the 
wagons  are  late  in  reaching  camp,  and  the  train  is  frequently 
strung  out  several  miles.  I  am  beginning  to  feel  alarmed  at 
the  tardiness  of  our  movements,  and  fearfiU  that  winter  wUl 
find  us  in  the  snowy  mountains  of  California,  or  that  we  shall 
suffer  from  the  exhaustion  of  our  supply  of  provisions.  I  do 
not  fear  for  myself,  but  for  the  women  and  children  of  the 
emigrants.  Singular  as  it  may  seem,  there  are  many  of  our 
present  party  who  have  no  just  conceptions  of  the  extent  and 
labor  of  the  journey  before  them.  They  appear  to  be  desiroiis 
of  shortening  each  day's  march  as  much  as  possible,  and  when 
once  encamped  are  reluctant  to  move,  except  for  the  benefit  of 
fresh  grass  for  their  cattle,  and  a  more  convenient  and  plentifiu 
supply  of  wood  for  the  purposes  of  cooking.  There  are  several 
persons  in  camp  ill  with  bilious  complaints.     Distance  10  miles. 

May  25. — Our  route  to-day  has  been  over  a  more  broken 
country  than  I  have  seen  since  entering  upon  the  prairies.  The 
timber  fringing  the  margin  of  Vermihon  Creek,  seen  in  the  dis- 
tance, has  been  the  only  rehef  to  the  nakedness  of  the  country, 
with  the  exception  of  two  or  three  sohtary  trees,  standing 
isolated  on  the  verdant  plain.  We  reached  the  Vermihon  about 
noon.  The  bank  of  this  stream  on  the  eastern  side  was  so  steep, 
and  the  ford  in  other  respects  so  difficult,  that  we  were  detained 
several  hours  in  crossing  it.  The  VeimUion  is  the  largest  water- 
course we  have  crossed  since  leaving  the  Kansas.  Its  current  is 
more  rapid  than  has  been  usually  exhibited  by  the  streams  of 
these  prairies,  and  would  afford  very  good  water-power.  The 
timber  at  this  point  on  its  banks,  is  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
m  width,  and  consists  chiefly  of  oak  and  elm.  It  has  been 
reported  to  be  abundantly  supplied  with  a  variety  of  fish. 
Ewing  and  Nuttall,  who  encamped  with  an  emigrant  party 


18  BIO  BLUE  RITER. 

aere  last  night,  caught  two  good-sized  catii&h,  but  none  of  t 
liflferent  species. 

Between  this  and  the  Big  Blue,  on  the  trail,  there  was  said 
/o  be  neither  wood  nor  water,  and  consequently  our  water-casks 
ivere  filled,  and  a  supply  of  wood  placed  in  our  wagons,  suffi- 
.ient  for  fires  at  night  and  in  the  morning.  We  encamped  this 
vftemoon  on  a  high  elevation  of  the  prairie,  about  five  miles 
yest  of  the  Vermilion.  Just  as  our  wagons  were  forming  the 
:orral,  a  storm  of  thimder,  lightning,  rain  and  wind,  bxirst  upon 
us,  drenching  us  to  the  skin,  and  nearly  upsetting  some  of  our 
wagons  with  its  furious  violence.  The  cloud  rose  from  the 
west,  and  soon  passing  over  to  the  east,  within  a  hundred  yards 
of  us  the  most  brilliant  rainbow  I  ever  beheld  was  formed,  the 
bases  of  the  arch  resting  upon  two  imdulations  between  which 
we  had  passed.  No  Roman  general,  in  all  his  gorgeous  tri- 
xmiphal  processions,  ever  paraded  beneath  an  arch  so  splendid 
and  imposing.  The  clouds  soon  cleared  away,  the  rain  ceased, 
and  the  brilliant  meteor  faded,  leaving  nature  around  us  fresh- 
ened and  cleansed  from  the  dust  and  impurities,  which  for  two 
days  past  have  been  excessively  annoying. 

The  ridges  over  which  we  had  marched  to-day,  have  gen- 
erally exhibited  a  coarse  gravel  of  flint  and  sandstone,  with 
boulders  of  the  latter,  and  of  granite.     Distance  15  miles. 

May  26. — Our  route  to-day  has  continued  over  a  rolling,  and 
rather  broken  country,  compared  with  former  marches.  We 
crossed  a  small  stream  about  three  miles  from  our  encampment, 
the  limpid  waters  of  which  flow  merrily  over  a  gravelly  bed, 
and  a  few  straggling  trees  ornament  its  banks.  From  this 
we  continued  to  ascend  over  elevated  lidges,  untU  we  reached 
the  bluffs  which  overlook  Big  Blue  River.  Descending  from 
these,  and  ascertaining  that  from  the  late  rains  the  stream  was 
so  much  swollen  as  not  to  be  fordable,  we  encamped  on  a  slope 
of  the  prairie,  near  the  timber,  at  one  o'clock,  p.  m. 

The  Big  Blue  in  its  present  state,  at  the  ford,  is  a  stream 
about  one  himdred  yards  in  width,  with  turbid  water  and  a  strong 
and  rapid  current.  A  large  quantity  of  drift  ia  floating  on  its 
mriiace.     The  timber  on  it  at  this  point  is  about  half  a  mile  in 


PRAIRIE    PEA.  59 

width,  and  is  composed  of  oak,  cotton- wood,  walnut,  beach,  and 
sycamore.  The  trees  are  large,  and  appear  to  be  sound  and 
thrifty.  A  small  spring  branch  empties  into  the  main  river,  which 
here  nms  nearly  from  the  north  to  the  south,  just  above  the 
ford.  The  waters  of  the  branch  are  perfectly  limpid,  and  with 
a  lively  and  sparkling  current  bubble  along  over  a  clear  bed  of 
gravel  and  large  flat  rocks.  In  the  banks  and  the  bed  of  this 
small  stream,  there  are  several  spiings  of  deUcious  cold  water, 
which  to  the  traveller  in  this  region  is  one  of  the  most  highly- 
prized  luxuries.  Should  our  government  determine  to  establish 
military  posts  along  the  emigrant  traU  to  Oregon,  a  more  favor- 
able position  than  this,  for  one  of  them,  could  not  be  selected. 
The  range  of  bluffs  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  river,  about  two 
hxmdred  yards  from  it,  overlooks  and  commands  the  entire 
bottom  on  both  sides,  fonning  a  natural  fortification. 

The  river  has  continued  to  rise  rapidly  since  our  arrival  here, 
and  at  sunset  the  muddy  waters  were  even  with  its  banks.  It 
is  not  probable  that  we  shall  be  able  to  ford  it  for  two  or 
three  days.  The  two  companies  immediately  in  advance  of  us, 
were  so  fortunate  as  to  reach  the  stream  last  night  before  the 
great  rise  took  place,  and  we  saw  them  on  our  arrival  wending 
their  way  west,  over  the  high  and  distant  ridges. 

A  fruit  called  the  prairie  pea,  which. I  have  previously  no- 
ticed has  been  very  abundant  along  our  route.  The  plant 
which  produces  it  is  about  eight  inches  in  length,  and  has  a 
leaf  similar  to  that  of  the  wild  pea  vine.  The  fruit,  which  varies 
from  half  an  inch  to  an  inch  in  diameter,  has  a  tough  rind,  with 
a  juicy  pulp,  the  flavor  of  which  resembles  that  of  the  green 
pea  in  its  raw  state.  In  the  heart  of  the  fruit  there  are  a  nvmi- 
ber  of  small  seeds.  Mrs.  Grayson,  having  the  necessary  spices, 
&c.,  made  of  the  prairie  pea  a  jar  of  pickles,  and  they  were 
equal  if  not  superior  to  any  dehcacy  of  the  kind  which  I  have 
ever  tasted.  The  wild  rose  with  its  dehcate  perfume,  and  the 
wild  tulip,  have  been  the  most  conspicuous  flowers. 

The  afternoon  has  been  devoted,  by  the  female  portion  of 
our  party,  to  the  important  duty  of  "  washing."  I  noticed  that 
the  smaU  branch  was  lined  with  fires,  kettles,  tubs,  and  aU  the 


60  TERR  FIC  STORM. 

parapliernalia  necessary  to  the  process  of  purifying  linen. 
The  Big  Blue  is  said  to  abound  ia  fish,  but  its  extreme  height, 
has  prevented  much  success  with  our  anglers.  A  catfish 
about  three  feet  in  length  was  taken  this  evening  by  one  of  our 
party. 

While  I  am  writing,  a  public  meeting  is  being  held  in  the 
area  of  the  corral.  There  is  much  speaking  and  voting  upon 
questions  appertaining  to  the  enforcement  of  by-laws,  and 
regulations  heretofore  adopted,  but  rarely  enforced.  We  are  a 
pure  democracy.  AU  laws  are  proposed  directly  to  a  general 
assembly,  and  are  enacted  or  rejected  by  a  majority.  The 
court  of  arbitrators,  appointed  to  decide  disputes  between 
parties,  and  to  punish  offenders  against  the  peace  and  order  of 
the  company,  does  not  appear  to  have  much  authority.  The 
party  condemned  is  certain  to  take  an  appeal  to  an  assembly 
of  the  whole,  and  he  is  nearly  as  certain  of  an  acquittal,  what- 
ever may  have  been  his  transgressions. 

The  day  has  been  delightful.  No  disagreeable  incident  has 
marred  the  general  harmony  and  good  feeling.  The  new  moon 
exhibited  its  faint  crescent  above  the  tree-tops  contiguous  to 
our  camp,  soon  after  the  sun  sank  behind  the  western  horizon. 
She  was  recognised  as  an  old  and  familiar  acquaintance  of  the 
great  family  of  Adam,  with  whom  our  friends  of  the  orient 
might  be  shakuig  hands  at  the  same  time  that  we  were  gazing 
upon  her  pleasmg  features.     Distance  10  miles. 


CHAPTER    V. 

Terrible  storm — More  legislation — Alcove  spring — Honey — A  death  and 
funeral — Boat-launch — Blue  River  Rover — Soil  and  scenery  along  the 
Blue — Fresh  graves — Pawnee  country — Quarrels  in  camp — Withdrawal 
of  the  Oregon  emigrants— Indian  hunters — Indian  appetites — Mora 
fighting — Antolopob — False  bnffalo  chase — Blacksmithiug  on  the  plains 

May  27. — A  terrific  thunder-storm  roared  and  raged,  and 
poured  out  its  floods  of  water  tliroughout  a  great  portion  of  thf 


F&AIKIE    LEGIS1.ATI0N.  61 

night.  But  for  the  protection  against  the  violence  of  the  wind, 
afiForded  by  the  bluffs  op  one  side  and  the  timber  on  the  other, 
our  tents  would  have  been  swept  away  by  the  storm.  The 
whole  arcli  of  the  heavens  for  a  time  was  wrapped  in  a  sheet  ot 
flame,  and  the  almost  deafening  crashes  of  thunder,  following 
each  other  with  scarcely  an  intermission  between,  seemed  as  if 
they  would  rend  the  sohd  earth,  or  topple  it  from  its  axis.  A 
more  sublime  and  awful  meteoric  display,  I  never  witnessed  or 
could  conceive. 

The  river  since  last  night  has  risen  several  feet,  and  there  is 
now  no  hope  of  fording  it  for  several  days.  At  eight  o'clock, 
A.  M.,  an  adjom-ned  meeting  of  the  company  was  held  in  the 
corral,  to  hear  and  act  upon  a  report  of  a  committee,  appointed 
by  the  meeting  last  night,  to  draw  up  additional  regidations 
for  our  government  during  the  journey.  As  usual  in  these  as- 
semblies, violent  language  was  used,  producing  personal  alter- 
cation and  much  excitement.  A  motion  having  been  made  by 
one  of  the  company,  to  appoint  a  standing  committee  to  try 
the  officers,  when  charged  with  tyranny  or  neglect  of  duty  by 
any  indiiidual  of  the  party,  it  was  carried ;  whereupon  all  the 
oflScers  announced  their  resignations,  and  we  were  thrown  back 
into  our  original  elements,  without  a  head  and  without  organi- 
zation. I  felt  fully  satisfied  that  a  large  majority  of  the  emi- 
grants composing  our  party  were  in  favor  of  order,  and  a 
restraining  exercise  of  authority  on  the  part  of  their  officers, 
and  that  they  had  voted  without  xmderstanding  the  effects 
which  must  follow  the  measure  adopted.  Not  having  partici- 
pated in  the  proceedings  of  the  meeting  pi-e^dously,  I  moved  a 
reconsideration  of  the  vote  just  taken,  and  explained  the  reasons 
therefor.  My  motion  was  carried  by  a  large  majority ;  the 
resolution  raising  the  standing  committee  was  rescinded,  and 
the  officers  who  had  just  resigned  were  re-elected  by  acclama- 
tion !  These  matters  I  describe  with  some  minuteness,  because 
thev  Ulustrate  emigrant  life  while  on  the  road  to  the  Pacific, 
where  no  law  prevails  except  theli  \vill.  So  thoroughly,  how- 
ever, are  our  people  imbued  with  conservative  repubhcan  prin- 
eiples,  and  so  accustomed  are  thev  to  order  and  propriety  c< 

6 


68  ALCOVE  SPRING HONBT. 

djportment,  that  with  a  fair  understanding,  a  majority  wili 
always  be  found  on  the  side  of  right,  and  opposed  to  disor- 
ganization. "  Our  glorioiis  constitution,"  is  their  motto  and 
their  model,  and  they  mU  sanction  nothing  in  derogation 
of  the  principles  of  the  American  constitution  and  American 
justice.  There  are,  however,  men  in  all  emigrating  parties, 
desperate  and  depraved  characters,  who  are  perpetually  en- 
deavoring to  produce  discord,  disorganization,  and  collision ; 
and  after  a  proper  organization  of  a  party,  as  few  public  assem- 
blages as  possible  should  be  convened  for  legislative  purposes. 

This  afternoon,  accompanied  by  several  of  the  party,  I  strolled 
up  the  small  branch,  which  I  have  previously  mentioned  as 
emptying  into  the  river  just  above  the  ford.  About  three- 
fourths  of  a  mile  from  our  camp  we  foimd  a  large  spring  of 
water,  as  cold  and  pure  as  if  it  had  just  been  melted  from  ice. 
It  gushed  from  a  ledge  of  rocks,  which  composes  the  bank  of 
the  stream,  and  falUng  some  ten  feet,  its  waters  are  received 
into  a  basin  fifteen  feet  in  length,  ten  in  breadth,  and  three  or 
four  in  depth.  A  shelving  rock  projects  over  this  basin,  from 
which  falls  a  beautiful  cascade  of  water,  some  ten  or  twelve 
feet.  The  whole  is  bmied  in  a  variety  of  shrubbery  of  th^ 
richest  verdure,  and  surrounded  by  small  mound-shaped  ine- 
qualities of  the  prairie.  Altogether  it  is  one  of  the  most  roman- 
tic spots  I  ever  saw.  So  charmed  were  we  with  its  beauties, 
that  several  hours  unconsciously  glided  away  in  the  enjoyment 
of  its  refreshing:  waters  and  seductive  attractions.  We  named 
this  the  "  Alcove  Spring ;"  and  future  travellers  will  find  the 
name  graven  on  the  rocks,  and  on  the  trunks  of  the  trees  sur- 
rounding it. 

There  are  indications  of  the  existence  of  mineral  coal  on  the 
Big  Blue.  Mr.  Grayson  and  others  went  out  in  search  of  honey 
this  morning,  and  returned  in  the  afternoon  with  several  buckets 
full  of  the  pure  and  delicious  product  of  the  labors  of  the  bee. 
Our  hunters  and  fishermen  met  with  no  success.  Some  of  them 
discovered  a  large,  but  deserted  Indian  encampment,  about 
four  miles  up  the  river,  which  they  conjectured  had  been  occu- 
pied by  the  Pawnees. 


BOAT  BUILDING ^A  DKATH  63 

May  28. — ^The  river  having  fallen  only  fifteen  inches  dur- 
ing the  night,  after  breakfast  the  whole  party  capable  of 
performing  duty  were  summoned  to  repair  to  a  point  on  the 
river  about  half  a  mile  above  us,  to  assist  in  the  construction 
of  a  raft  to  ferry  our  wagons  over  the  stream.  The  response  to 
this  call  was  not  very  general ;  but  a  nimiber  of  the  men  armed 
with  their  axes,  adzes,  and  a  variety  of  other  mechanical  tools, 
immediately  assembled  and  repaired  to  the  place  designated. 
We  labored  mdustriously  the  entire  day,  in  making  "  dug -outs. '' 
Two  large  cotton- wood  trees  were  felled,  about  three  and  a  half 
or  four  feet  in  diameter.  From  these  canoes  were  hollowed  out, 
twenty-five  feet  in  length.  The  two  canoes  are  to  be  imited  by 
a  cross-frame,  so  as  to  admit  the  wheels  of  our  wagons  into 
them.  Lines  are  then  to  be  attached  to  both  ends,  and  omx 
water-craft  is  thus  to  convey  our  wagons  over  the  river,  being 
pidled  backwards  and  forwards  by  the  strength  of  the  men. 

I  strolled  up  another  small  branch,  which  empties  into  the 
B5g  Blue  not  far  distant  from  our  encampment.  The  water  is 
abundant,  ?nd  of  the  finest  quahty,  and  the  scenery  most  pic- 
tiu-esque  and  romantic.  I  procured  in  my  rambles  a  plentiful 
supply  of  the  prairie  pea  for  pickling,  and  I  would  recommend 
all  emiorrants  travelling:  this  road  to  do  the  same.  A  man  be- 
longing  to  one  of  the  forward  companies  returned  back  this 
afternoon,  in  search  of  some  lost  cattle  or  horses.  He  reported 
that  a  child  of  Judge  Bowlin,  one  of  the  emigrants  to  Oregon, 
died  yesterday.  The  man  in  crossing  the  river  was  thrown 
from  his  horse,  and  it  was  with  great  difiiculty  that  he  could 
save  himself  from  drowning.  He  sank  several  times,  and  was 
carried  down  the  stream  by  the  rapid  current ;  at  last  he  suc- 
ceeded in  grasping  the  tail  of  his  horse,  and  was  thus  kept 
above  water  untU  he  was  drawn  to  the  shore. 

May  29. — Last  night  Mrs.  Sarah  Keyes,  a  lady  aged  70,  a 
member  of  the  family  of  Mr.  J.  H.  Reed  of  Illinois,  and  his 
mother-in-law,  died.  Mr.  Reed,  with  his  family,  is  emigrating 
to  California.  The  deceased  Mrs.  Keyes,  however,  did  not  in- 
tend to  accompany  him  farther  than  Fort  Hall,  where  she  ex- 
pected to  meet  her  son  who  emigrated  to  Oregon  two  or  three 


64  FUNERAL. 

years  since.  Her  health,  from  disease  and  the  debility  of  age, 
was  so  feeble,  that  when  she  left  her  home,  she  entertained  but 
faint  hopes  of  being  able  to  endure  the  hardships  of  the  jour- 
ney. Her  physicians  had  announced  to  her  that  she  could  liv«'. 
but  a  short  time,  and  this  time  she  determined  to  devote  to  ar. 
effort  to  see  her  only  son  once  more  on  earth.  Such  is  a 
mother's  affection !  The  effort,  however,  was  vain.  She  ex- 
pired without  seeing  her  child. 

The  event,  although  it  had  been  anticipated  several  days, 
cast  a  shade  of  gloom  over  our  whole  encampment.  The  con- 
struction of  the  ferry-boat  and  all  recreations  were  suspended, 
out  of  respect  for  the  dead,  and  to  make  preparations  for  the 
funeral.  A  cotton-wood  tree  was  felled,  and  the  trunk  of  it 
split  into  planks,  which  being  first  hewn  with  an  axe  and  then 
planed,  were  constructed  into  a  coflBn,  in  which  the  remains  of 
the  deceased  were  deposited.  A  grave  was  excavated  a  sho. 
distance  from  the  camp^  under  an  oak-tree  on  the  right-liana 
side  of  the  trail.  A  stone  was  procured,  the  surface  of  which 
being  smoothed,  it  was  fashioned  into  the  shape  of  a  tombstone, 
and  the  name  and  age,  and  the  date  of  the  death  of  the  de- 
ceased, were  graved  upon  it. 

At  2  o'clock,  p.  M.,  a  funeral  procession  was  formed,  m  which 
nearly  every  man,  woman,  and  child  of  the  company  united, 
and  the  corpse  of  the  deceased  lady  was  conveyed  to  its  last 
resting-place,  in  this  desolate  but  beautiful  wilderness.  Her 
coffin  was  lowered  into  the  grave.  A  prayer  was  offered  to  the 
Throne  of  Grace  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Cornwall.  An  appropriatt 
hymn  was  sung  by  the  congregation  with  much  pathos  and  ex- 
pression. A  funeral  discourse  was  then  pronounced  by  the  of- 
ilciating  clergyman,  and  the  services  were  concluded  by  another 
liynin  and  a  benediction.  The  grave  was  then  closed  and  care- 
fully sodded  with  the  green  turf  of  the  prairie,  from  whence 
annually  will  spring  and  bloom  its  brilliant  and  many-colored 
flowers.  The  inscription  on  the  tombstone,  and  on  the  tree  be- 
neath which  is  tlie  grave,  is  as  follows :  "  Mrs.  Sauaii  Keyes, 
Died  May  29,  L846:  Aged  70." 

The  night  is  perfectly  calm.     The  crescent  moon  sheds  h«i 


FBRRT1N6   THE    BLUB.  66 

pale  rays  over  the  dim  landscape ;  the  whippoorwill  is  chant- 
ing its  lamentations  in  the  neighboring  grove;  the  low  and 
mournful  hooting  of  the  owl  is  heard  at  a  far-off  distance,  and 
altogether  the  scene,  with  its  adjuncts  around  us,  is  one  of 
peace,  beauty,  and  enjoyment. 

May  30. — The  river  having  remained  stationary  during  the 
night,  and  from  the  frequency  of  rains  there  being  no  present 
probability  of  its  falUng  so  as  to  be  fordable,  the  business  of 
completing  our  ferry-boat  was  resumed  with  energy  at  an  early 
hour.  This  work  being  finished,  the  nondescript  craft  was 
christened  the  "  Blue  River  Rover,"  and  launched  amid  the 
cheers  of  the  men.  She  floated  down  the  stream  like  a  cork, 
and  was  soon  moored  at  the  place  of  embarkation.  The  work 
of  ferrying  over  was  commenced  immediately.  Much  difficulty, 
as  had  been  anticipated,  was  experienced  in  working  the  boat, 
on  account  of  the  rapidity  of  the  stream  and  the  great  weight 
of  many  of  the  wagons.  The  current  was  so  strong,  that  near 
the  shore,  where  the  water  was  not  more  than  three  or  four  feet 
in  depth,  the  strength  of  a  man  could  with  difficulty  breast  it. 
One  of  the  canoes  was  swamped  on  the  western  side  in  draw- 
ing the  third  wagon  from  it.  The  damage,  however,  was  soon 
repaired  and  the  work  resumed.  Nine  wagons  and  their  con- 
tents were  safely  ferried  over  during  the  afternoon. 

May  31. — The  business  of  ferrying  was  resimied  at  an  early 
hour,  and  continued  with  vigor  until  nine  o'clock  at  night,  when 
all  the  wagons,  oxen,  and  horses  were  safely  landed  on  the 
western  bank  of  the  river,  where  our  corral  was  formed.  The 
labor  has  been  very  severe,  and  sometimes  dangerous  ;  but  was 
rendered  still  more  disagreeable  by  a  very  sudden  change  in 
the  temperatm-e.  A  chilling  wind  commenced  blowing  from  the 
northwest  at  four  o'clock,  p.  m.  Soon  after  dark  masses  of 
clouds  rolled  up,  and  it  rained  violently.  At  six  o'clock  the 
thermometer  had  fallen  to  48° ;  and  our  men,  many  of  whom  have 
been  standing  in  the  water  the  whole  day,  when  they  came  into 
camp  were  shivering  as  if  under  the  influence  of  a  pKxroxysm  of 
the  ague. 

A  fisticuff  fight,  in  the  progress  of  wliich  knives  were  drawn, 

6* 


66  FINE    SPRINGS. 

took  place  near  the  river  bank,  between  two  drivers,    who 

ordinarily  were  very  peaceable  and  well-disposed  men.  Fortu- 
nately, by  the  interposition  of  those  standing  by,  serious  results 
were  prevented.  The  pugnacious  and  beUigerent  propensities 
of  men  display  themselves  on  these  prairie  excursions,  for  sUght 
causes  and  provocations.  The  perpetual  vexations  and  hard- 
ships are  well  calculated  to  keep  the  nerves  in  a  state  of  great 
Irritability. 

Jacob  was  taken  quite  sick  this  evening  from  the  effects  of 
the  wet  and  the  cold.  He  was  reheved,  however,  in  a  short 
time.  The  growth  of  timber  on  the  western  bank  of  the  rivt 
is  oak,  walnut,  elm,  a  few  poplars,  cotton-wood,  the  black  haw, 
(in  bloom,)  dog- wood,  and  a  variety  of  small  shrubbery.  Grape- 
vines cover  many  of  the  trees.     Distance  one  mile. 

June  1. — Cloudy,  with  a  cold,  raw  wind  from  the  northwest. 
The  great  and  sudden  change  of  the  temperatiu'e,  connected 
with  the  hea\'y  fall  of  rain  last  night,  completely  drenching 
every  thing  exposed  to  it,  is  exceedingly  distressing  to  the 
women  and  children,  who  generally  are  thinly  clothed,  and 
unprepared  to  resist  the  effects  of  exposme  and  atmospheric 
eccentricities.  Many  of  them  suffered  greatly  last  night,  and 
this  morning  and  during  the  entire  day  the  wind  has  blown 
with  the  rawness  and  bleakness  of  November,  rendering  over- 
coats necessary  to  the  comfort  of  those  who  have  been  constantly 
exercising  themselves  by  walking  or  otherwise. 

We  resumed  our  march  after  a  detention  of  four  days.  As 
we  rose  from  the  bottom  of  the  Blue,  upon  the  high  and  rolling 
prairie,  a  vast  diameter  of  country  spread  itself  before  us  in  all 
directions,  presenting  a  landscape  surpassingly  attractive. 
Springs  of  cold,  pure  water,  gushing  from  the  cUffy  banks  of 
the  small  branches  and  ravines,  are  abmidant  on  all  sides. 
These  delightful  watering-places  are  usually  shaded  by  small 
clumps  of  trees  ;  and  their  existence  and  locality  are  thus  indi- 
cated to  the  thirsty  traveller  in  quest  of  the  delicious  and  indis- 
pensable beverage  wliich  they  so  generously  supply. 

The  general  features  and  characteristics  of  the  country  over 
which  we  have  travelled  to-day,  are  not  very  dissimilar  from 


NATURAL   RESOCRCAS.  67 

the  lescriptions  previously  given.  There  is  a  paucity  of  tim- 
ber The  soil  is  exuberantly  rich,  and  productive  of  the  most 
luxui.ant  grass  and  a  great  variety  of  plants,  few  of  which, 
howevtr,  are  now  in  bloom.  The  surface  of  the  country  is  higfc 
and  unaiiU.Ling.  There  are  no  stagnant  pools  or  boggy  marshee 
to  produce  malaria.  All  the  aspects  are  indicative  of  a  healtlifuJ 
climate  ;  but  \,  hether  this  conclusion  is  experimentally  correct, 
I  have  no  metuio  ""f  judging. 

The  strongest  objection  to  the  territory  we  have  passed 
through,  since  we  !i,ft  the  Missouri  line,  is  the  sparseness  of  tim- 
ber. With  this  sing  J  V  objection,  the  country  appears  to  be  the 
most  desirable,  in  an  'igriciiltural  point  of  view,  of  any  which  I 
have  ever  seen.  It  pos^osec  such  natural  wealth  and  beauties, 
that  at  some  futm-e  day  iv  Avill  be  the  Eden  of  America.  When 
that  epoch  arrives,  he  wtio  is  so  fortunate  as  to  be  then  a 
traveller  along  this  route,  may  stand  upon  one  of  the  high 
undulations,  and  take  in  at  a  fejugle  glance  a  himdred,  perhaps 
a  thousand  villas  and  cottages,  xvith  their  stately  parks,  bloom- 
ing gardens  and  pleasure-grounds ;  their  white  walls  seen 
through  the  embowering  foliage,  and  glitt^^ring  in  the  sunbeams 
from  every  hill-top  and  slope  of  these  magnificent  plains. 

I  saw  a  solitaiy  cluster  of  a  pure  \^hite  flower,  of  the  popp-y 
family,  which  previously  I  have  not  seen.  The  lupin  is  abundant, 
but  not  in  bloom.  At  four  o'clock,  p.  m.,  we  reached  a  small 
branch,  a  tributary  of  the  Blue,  which  presented  so  many  diffi- 
culties in  crossing,  that  the  remainder  of  the  day  was  laboriously 
occupied  in  passing  our  wagons  to  the  opposite  bank,  where  we 
encamped,  forming  our  corral  in  the  bottom,  to  avoid  the 
ground  so  often  occupied  by  emigrant  companies  which  have 
preceded  us.  The  grass,  for  a  long  circumference,  has  been 
cropped  in  many  places  to  the  roots,  showing  that  large  herds 
of  cattle  are  in  advance  of  us. 

Near  our  camp  there  is  a  dead  ox,  and  two  graves  of 
children,  which  have  died  and  been  buried  within  the  last  fovir 
days.  A  stone  with  the  inscription,  "May  28,  1846,"  stands 
at  the  head  of  one  of  the  graves  ;  at  the  head  of  the  other, 
there  is  a  small  wooden  cross.     The  bones  of  these  childier 


68  DISPUTES  AND  DIFFICULTIES. 

will  sleep  in  their  nameless  graves,  in  this  remote  wilderness, 
unless  disturbed  by  the  cupidity  of  the  savage,  or  the  hunger 
of  the  wolf,  until  the  last  trump  shall  summon  them  from  their 
repose. 

We  are  now  in  the  territory  of  the  Pawnees,  reported  to  be 
vicious  savages,  and  skilful  and  daring  thieves.  Thus  far  we 
have  lost  nothing  of  consequence,  and  met  with  no  disaster  from 
Indian  depredation  or  hostihty. 

Several  unpleasant  difficulties  and  altercations  have  occurred 
to-day,  from  the  perverse  obstinacy  of  some  of  the  men,  who 
refuse  obedience  to  the  orders  of  our  captain.  Tlie  standing 
committee  appointed  to  adjust  such  matters,  have  been  in 
session  the  whole  of  this  evening.  The  result  of  their  investiga- 
tions I  have  not  heard.  There  has  been,  for  several  days,  a  very 
troublesome  dispute  between  two  Oregon  emigrants,  partners 
for  the  journey,  one  owning  the  wagon  and  the  other  the  oxen. 
The  claimant  of  the  oxen  insists  upon  his  right  to  take  them 
from  the  wagon.  The  proprietor  of  the  wagon  denies  this 
right.  The  difference  was  brought  to  a  crisis  on  the  road 
to-day,  by  a  personal  rencoimter  produced  by  an  attempt  of 
the  ox  claimant  to  take  the  oxen  from  the  wagon,  and  thus  to 
leave  it  to  move  along  by  the  best  mode  that  could  be  invented 
for  such  an  exigency.  If  a  man  is  predisposed  to  be  quarrel- 
some, obstinate,  or  selfish,  from  his  natural  constitution,  these 
repulsive  traits  are  certain  to  be  developed  on  a  journey  over 
the  plains.  The  trip  is  a  sort  of  magic  mirror,  and  exposes 
every  man's  qualities  of  heart  connected  with  i(,  vicious  or 
amiable.     Distance  14  miles. 

June  2. — The  temperature  continues  tmsHasonably  cool,  and 
there  is  much  suffering  and  some  sickness  among  the  women 
and  children  in  consequence  of  it. 

A  scene  of  angry  altercation,  threatening  lo  terminate  in  vio- 
lence and  blood,  occurred  last  night  about  elevpn  o'clock,  during 
the  sitting  of  the  committee  of  arbitration  od  the  oxen  and 
wagon  controversy  which  I  mentioned,  yesterday.  Happily, 
through  the  interposition  of  those  roused  from  thoir  slumbers 
by  the  loud  threats,  epi'hets,  and  language  of  defiaivw  vVv»l) 


«lSPARATION.  6i 

passed  between  the  parties  at  variance  and  their  respective 
friends,  the  affair  waa  quieted  without  more  serious  conse- 
quences. This  morning  the  men  composing  the  company 
were  summoned,  at  an  early  hour,  to  meet  at  the  guard-tent  for 
the  purpose  of  adopting  measures  for  the  prevention  of  similar 
outbreaks,  disturbing  the  peace  and  threatening  the  lives  to  an 
indefinite  extent,  of  the  party. 

The  two  individuals  at  variance  about  their  oxen  and  wagon, 
were  emigrating  to  Oregon,  and  some  eighteen  or  twenty  wag- 
ons, now  travelling  with  us,  were  bound  to  the  same  place.  It 
was  proposed,  in  order  to  relieve  ourselves  from  the  conse- 
quences of  disputes  in  which  we  had  no  interest,  that  all 
the  Oregon  emigrants  should,  in  a  respectful  manner  and  a 
friendly  spirit,  be  requested  to  separate  themselves  from  the 
California  emigrants,  and  start  on  in  advance  of  us.  This 
proposition  was  unanimously  carried,  and  the  spirit  in  which  it 
was  made  prevented  any  bad  feeling,  which  otherwise  might 
have  resulted  from  it.  The  Oregon  emigrants  immediately 
drew  their  wagons  from  the  corral  and  proceeded  on  their 
way. 

Many  of  them,  especially  the  females,  separated  from  us 
with  much  apparent  reluctance  and  regret.  When  making  their 
adieux,  several  of  them  were  affected  to  tears.  Doubtless 
tender  ties  of  affection  and  friendship,  formed  between  the 
young  men  and  young  women  of  the  two  parties,  were  then 
sundered,  and  will  never  be  reunited.  Such  are  the  stem  and 
inflexible  decrees  of  Fate  in  the  delicate  affairs  of  the  heart. 

Our  march  to-day  has  been  for  the  most  part  over  a  smooth 
inchned  plane,  in  some  places  wet  and  marshy.  We  encamped 
on  another  small  affluent  of  the  Blue.  Just  before  we  en- 
camped, we  saw,  at  the  distance  of  about  three  miles,  some 
moAring  objects,  which  being  inspected  through  a  glass  proved 
to  be  Indians.  They  were  a  party  of  four  Shawnee  Indians, 
one  or  two  of  whom  spoke  English,  and  had  been  out  on  a 
trappmg  and  hunting  expedition.  They  were  now  returning 
to  their  homes.  Two  of  them  by  invitation  came  to  the  camp, 
supped  and  remained  all  night  with  us.     We  piu-chased  of 


70  INDIAN  GOURMANDS. 

them  some  dried  buffalo  tongues  and  jerked  meat,  which  they 
packed  in  skins  on  their  horses.     Distance  12  miles. 

June  3. — A  bitter  wind  blows  from  the  northeast,  chilling 
as  the  blasts  of  November.  Flannels,  overcoats,  and  all  the 
clothing  of  winter  are  necessary  to  comfort.  The  day  has  been 
the  coldest  and  most  disagreeable  that  I  ever  experienced  in 
the  month  of  June. 

The  two  Shawnee  Indians  parted  from  us  on  their  homeward 
journey,  at  the  same  hour  that  we  commenced  our  march. 
They  carried  with  them  a  large  budget  of  letters,  which  had 
been  written  during  the  night  by  those  composing  our  party, 
addressed  to  their  friends  at  home.  We  also  supplied  them 
with  bacon,  flour,  coffee,  and  sugar,  sufficient  for  the  remainder 
of  their  journey.  They  supped  and  breakfasted  with  our  mess, 
and  I  never  saw  men  swallow  food  with  such  apparent  enjoy- 
ment and  in  such  prodigious  quantities.  Each  of  them  consumed 
as  much  at  one  meal,  as  a  man  with  ordinary  appetite  and  pow  ■ 
ers  of  disrestion  would  eat  at  six.  Our  cook  this  morninff,  in 
order  that  there  should  be  no  deficiency,  prepared  five  or  six 
times  the  usual  quantity  of  bread,  and  fried  bacon,  and  coffee, 
but  it  all  disappeared,  besides  nearly  a  quart  of  lard  in  which 
the  bacon  was  swimming. 

A  few  scattering  trees  on  a  small  branch  which  we  crossed 
this  morning,  are  all  that  we  have  seen  during  our  day's  march. 
Our  route  has  been  over  ascending  ground  nearly  the  whole 
day.  Late  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  the  summit  of  a  ridge, 
overlooking  a  valley,  through  which  winds  a  small  rivulet,  the 
banks  of  which  are  fringed  with  timber.  The  view  from  the 
ridge  of  the  beautiful  valley  below,  appeared  almost  like  a 
creation  of  enchantment.  Involuntary  exclamations  of  pleasure 
and  admiration  escaped  from  the  lips  of  the  whole  advance 
party  as  soon  as  the  scene  became  visible. 

Descending  into  the  valley  and  crossing  the  stream,  we  en- 
camp(.'d  in  a  grose  of  oak  on  tlie  western  side.  Vegetation  here 
Ls  much  more  backward  tlian  it  has  appeared  generally  on  our 
route.  The  grass  is  not  so  high,  and  many  of  the  oaks  display 
DO  foliage  and  are  still  in  the  bud.     I  account  for  this  by  sup* 


A  FIGHT.  "  71 

posing  the  country  to  be  much  more  elevated  than  that  which 
,  we  have  passed  over.  I  noticed,  on  a  gravelly  bluff  overlooWng 
the  valley,  the  cactus  or  prickly-pear,  and  some  beautiful  spe- 
cimens of  the  flower  called  "  Adam's  Needle,"  and  a  bell-shapeo 
flower  of  variegated  colors.  Two  elk,  a  panther,  and  some  wild 
turkeys  have  been  seen  during  our  march,  but  they  were  beyond 
the  reach  of  our  rifles. 

Two  men,  who  joined  us  a  few  days  since,  had  a  violent 
quarrel  in  camp  this  evening.  Blows  were  exchanged,  knives 
and  pistols  drawn ;  and  but  for  the  interference  of  Mr.  Kirken- 
dall,  who  was  standing  near  at  the  time  and  rushed  between 
the  parties,  one  or  both  would  probably  have  been  killed,  A 
wagon  belonging  to  a  German  emigrant  named  Keyesburgh, 
whose  wife  carried  in  her  arms  a  small  child,  and  was  in  a  deli- 
cate situation,  was  upset,  and  the  woman  and  child  precipitated 
into  a  pool  of  water.  The  tongue  of  the  wagon  was  broken, 
and  all  its  contents  were  thoroughly  wet  and  plastered  with 
mud.  Fortimately,  however,  no  other  damage  was  done.  The 
woman  and  child  escaped  without  material  injury.  Distance 
18  miles. 

June  4. — Our  march,  as  usual,  has  been  over  the  high  table- 
land of  the  prairie,  occasionally  dotted  with  one  or  more  small 
trees,  indicating  the  localities  of  springs  or  pools  of  stagnant 
water.  The  undulations  and  ravines  have  been  less  frequent, 
the  surface  of  the  country  presenting  before  us  an  expansive 
inclined  plane,  which  we  have  been  climbing  the  entire  day. 
We  crossed  several  affluents  of  the  Blue,  with  sandy  and  grav- 
elly beds ;  the  waters  having  ceased  to  flow,  stand  in  pools  of 
considerable  depth.  The  soil  as  we  advance  is  becoming  sandy 
and  less  fertile,  and  the  grass  and  other  vegetation  is  much 
shorter  and  thinner.  Vegetation  appears  to  be  very  backward, 
many  of  the  trees  being  bare  of  foliage ;  and  the  flowers  which 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  back  were  dropping  their  blossoms, 
are  here  budding  and  bursting  into  bloom. 

About  noon  a  number  of  antelopes  were  seen  grazing,  about 
two  or  three  miles.  A  party  started  out  immediately  on  the  best 
horses  to  hunt  them.     We  spread  out  to  the  right  and  left,  and 


78  *  ANTELOPB    CHA8B. 

the  antelopes  did  not  discover  us  until  we  had  approached  with- 
in the  distance  of  half  a  mile.  They  then  raised  their  heads, 
and  looking  towards  us  an  instant,  fled  almost  with  the  fleetness 
of  the  wind.  I  never  saw  an  animal  that  could  run  with  the 
apparent  ease,  speed,  and  grace  of  these.  They  seem  to  fly,  or 
skim  over  the  ground,  so  bounding  and  buoyant  are  their  strides, 
and  so  bird-like  their  progress.  A  chase  was  commenced  im- 
mediately, but  it  ended  as  might  have  been  expected ;  the 
antelopes  were  very  soon  two  or  three  miles  distant,  notwith- 
standinar  we  rode  fleet  horses,  and  as  if  in  derision  of  our  slow 
progress,  would  stop  occasionally  and  look  around  until  we 
came  near  to  them,  when  again  they  would  bovmd  ofi",  and  in  a 
few  minutes  be  out  of  sight.  In  shape  they  resemble  in  many 
respects  the  goat ;  their  size  is  considerably  below  that  of  the 
common  deer.  Their  limbs  are  very  small  and  sinewy.  Their 
hair  is  coarse,  and  of  a  hght  chestnut  color  mingled  with  white. 
Beneath  the  tail  on  the  thighs  behind,  there  is  a  small  oval- 
shaped  spot  of  white  hair.  All  our  efi"orts  to  approach  them 
within  gunshot  were  entirely  fruitless.  The  sport,  however, 
was  very  good  for  us,  but  not  so  agreeable  to  our  horses. 

We  encamped  this  afternoon  on  the  Little  Blue,  in  sight  of 
the  timber  "skirting  which  we  liave  travelled  most  of  the  day. 
The  trees  are  ^niefly  oaK,  cotton- wood  and  hickory.  Mr.  Gray- 
son brought  in  a  fine  fat  doe,  which  he  had  succeeded  in  shoot- 
ing after  a  day's  hunt.  This  is  the  first  game  of  consequence, 
that  has  been  killed  since  we  commenced  our  journey,  and  it 
was  a  luxury  highly  appreciated  after  subsistmg  so  long  upon 
salt  meat. 

We  are  beginning  now  to  look  for  buffalo,  with  great  curi- 
osity and  interest.  Every  dark  object  descried  upon  the 
horizon  is  keenly  scrutinized,  and  manufactured  into  one  of  those 
quadrupeds,  if  its  shape,  color  and  proportiuns,  can  be  tortured 
•nto  the  slightest  resemblance.  So  eager  and  excited  afo  our  men 
in  this  respect,  that  two  of  them  in  advance,  discovering  two 
others  at  a  distance  of  three  miles,  were  so  cei  tarn  that  they  were 
bulfaloes,  that  they  commenced  a  chase,  which  lastea  several 
hours,  the  distance  between  the  parties  being  maintained  for 


BLACKSMITHING POOR    SOIL.  73 

some  time  by  nearly  equal  speed.  The  pursuers  were  greatly 
shagrined  when  they  discovered  their  mistake.  The  day  has 
been  highly  favorable  to  our  cattle,  being  so  cool  that  over- 
coats were  comfortable.     Distance  22  mUes. 

June  6. — Our  march  to-day  has  been  along  the  bottom,  or 
in  sight  of  the  Little  Blue,  which  is  skirted  by  a  few  large  trees, 
chiefly  oak  and  cotton-wood.  We  crossed  the  dry  gravelly 
bed.s  of  several  streams,  which  in  rainy  seasons,  or  during  the 
melting  of  the  snows,  flow  into  the  Little  Blue.  In  passing  over 
one  of  these,  our  wagon  was  so  much  injured  that  we  were 
compelled  to  stop  several  hours  to  repair  it.  A  fire  was  hghted, 
irons  heated,  and  the  "  art  and  mystery"  of  blacksraithing, 
without  anvil,  and  witli  axes  and  hatchets  for  hammers,  in  the 
course  of  two  hours  repaired  the  injury.  The  train  in  the 
mean  time  had  moved  on,  and  we  were  left  far  in  the  rear. 

The  composition  of  the  soil  continues  to  exhibit  fewer  fertile 
quahties.  It  is  sandy,  and  the  vegetation  is  scattered  and  short. 
I  noticed  to-day  a  beautiful  crimson,  five-leafed  flower,  produced 
by  a  small  vine.  The  shape  of  the  flower  resembles  the  holly- 
hock, but  its  leaves  are  much  more  delicate,  and  its  color  more 
deep  and  brilliant. 

We  encamped  this  afternoon  in  a  handsome  bottom  of  the 
Little  Blue,  with  good  water  and  grass,  and  a  plentiful  supply 
of  dry  wood.  The  scenery  is  attractive,  and  the  evening, 
although  cool  for  the  season,  is  not  unpleasant.  Distance  21 
rsiles.  7 


74  EFFECTS    OF    EXPOS [JRE. 


CHAPTER    VI. 

Sickness  among  the  emigrants — Effects  of  travel  and  exposure  upon  the 
appearance  and  habits  of  our  party — Method  of  travel — The  Little  Blue 
River — Change  in  the  soil — A  break-down — Platte  River — Soil  of  the 
Platte  bottom — Human  bones — Buffalo  bones — Post-offices — Islands  of 
the  Platte — Bois  de  Vache — Mackinaw  boats — Prairie-dog  town — Rocky 
Mountain  hunters,  and  boatmen — The  bluffs  of  the  Platte — Immense 
fungi  —First  buffaloes — Men  in  search  of  a  doctor — Disposition  among 
emigrants  to  take  large  doses  of  medicine — Effects  often  fatal — Barba- 
rous surgical  operation — Distressing  scene — Funeral — Wedding — Birth. 

June  6. — There  has  been  considerable  sickness  in  camp  during 
the  past  ten  days ;  resulting,  as  I  believe,  from  mprudent  expo- 
sure and  indulgence.  The  complaints  are  chills  and  fevers,  and 
diaiThoea,  The  cases  have,  however,  generally  yielded  to  medi- 
cine. FevF  of  our  company  have  been  accustomed  to  the  fa- 
tigues, exposiu'es,  and  piivations  of  a  camp-ltfe,  and  on  the 
whole  it  is  rather  surprising  that  the  outset  of  the  journey  has 
not  affected  us  more  seriously  than  it  has.  Many  have  de 
cidedly  improved  in  health,  and  are  now  becoming  so  inured  to 
our  present  mode  of  life,  that  the  usually  deleterious  effects  of 
exposure  to  dampness,  cold  and  heat,  are  not  a  sul)ject  of  much 
consideration. 

Our  faces  are  nearly  as  dark,  from  the  effects  of  the  stm  and 
the  weather,  as  those  of  the  copper-colored  inhabitants  of  these 
plains  whom  we  have  so  often  met.  Before  our  evening  ablu- 
tions, after  encamping,  are  performed,  and  the  black  dust  of 
the  prairie  is  laved  from  our  skins,  if  a  friend  from  the  "  set.- 
tlements"  were  to  meet  us,  clad  as  we  are  in  our  grotesque  and 
careless  costume,  he  might  very  naturally  mistake  us  for  a  com- 
pany of  the  savages  who  roam  over  this  wide  wilderness.  Once 
a  week  is  as  often  as  the  most  particular  and  fastidious  exqui- 
site of  the  party  consults  his  pocket-mirror  and  admires  his 
physiognomy ;   and  the  not  very  delicate  nerves  of  most  of 


SYSTEM    OF    TRAVEL.  75 

them,  it  must  be  admitted,  arc  then  often  sever«v'y  shocked; 
and  they  regard  their  own  images  with  feehngs  ort  terror  and 
aversion,  rather  than  with  emotions  of  admiration.  The  anec- 
dote of  the  very  ugly  man  who,  after  surveying  liKnself  in  the 
glass,  exclaimed,  "  Not  handsome,  but  d — d  genteel !"  is  not  ap- 
plicable to  any  of  us.     No  one  is  either  genteel  or  handsome. 

Our  system  of  travel  is  thus :  The  whole  encampment  is 
roused  by  the  sound  of  a  trumpet  at  or  before  suurif^e.  Break- 
fast, which  hitherto  has  consisted  of  bread,  fried  bacon,  and 
coffee,  is  prepared  and  discussed  as  soon  as  possible,  usually  by 
six  o'clock,  when  the  morning  cattle-guard  is  summoned  to  drive 
the  oxen  into  the  corral  preparatory  to  "  catching  up  '  or  yoking. 
This  occupies  an  hour  or  more,  and  at  seven  or  hal  -past  seven 
o'clock,  our  march  commences.  Between  12  o'clt  rk  and  one 
o'clock  the  train  is  halted  in  the  road  foi  the  oxer  to  breathe. 
There  is  a  delay  of  an  hour,  during  which  each  per-  on  partakes 
of  such  refreshment  as  has  been  provided  for  him  bt  fore  leaving 
camp  in  the  morning.  The  march  is  then  resumed,  and  con- 
tinued according  to  circumstances  in  reference  to  jrass,  water, 
and  wood,  until  5  or  6  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  wh«n  our  corral 
is  formed,  our  tents  pitched,  and  our  evening  meal  urovided. 

Until  last  night  the  oxen  have  been  diiven  into  f.he  wrral  at 
8  o'clock,  to  guard  against  Indian  thefts ;  but  now  i,hat  we  have 
approached  so  near  the  buffalo  region,  Avhere  catile  a'-e  of  no 
value  in  the  estimation  of  the  savages,  this  practice  has  been 
discontinued.  We  have  seen  no  Indians,  except  the  Shawnees 
mentioned,  since  we  left  the  Big  Blue  River.  Tne  Shawnees 
reported  that  there  was  an  encampment  of  300  Pawnee  war- 
riors, at  a  point  now  about  five  days'  journey  in  advance. 

Our  route  has  been  up  the  Little  Blue,  which  rims  in  a  south- 
east direction.  We  have  generally  travelled  upon  its  bank 
The  waters  of  the  stream  at  present  are  confined  to  a  channel 
about  ten  yards  in  width,  but  during  high-water,  or  freshets, 
they  overflow  the  most  of  the  bottom.  The  deposite  of  sana 
and  detritus  from  an  overflow  of  the  present  year,  is  so  deep  in 
many  places  that  the  grass  has  not  penetrated  through  it.  The 
soil  of  the  bottom  appears  to  be  of  a  fertile  composition,  but 


76  ACCIDENT DELAY. 

that  of  the  table-land  or  prame  undulations  is  sandy  and  grav- 
elly, producing  but  little  grass.  Among  the  flowers  which  1 
noticed  to-day  were  the  foxglove,  and  a  plume-  shaped  flower, 
the  petals  of  which  are  pink,  purple,  and  blue.  The  wild  pea, 
in  bloom,  is  quite  abundant  in  places ;  and  the  lupin  disputes 
the  tenantry  of  the  ground  with  the  grass. 

The  mirage  has  displayed  itself  several  times  to-day  with  fine 
effect,  representing  groves  of  waving  timber  and  lakes  of  limpid 
water.  Oiu-  amateur  hunters,  several  of  whom  have  been  out  all 
day,  brought  in  no  game.  They  saw  large  numbers  of  ante- 
lope, but  never  were  so  successful  as  to  approach  within  rifle- 
shot of  them.  We  are  encamped  to-night  on  a  handsome  bot- 
tom, between  the  Little  Blue  and  a  small  branch  emptying  into 
it.  The  moon  is  shining  brilhantly,  and  the  evening  is  more 
pleasant  than  any  we  have  enjoyed  for  some  time.  The  trail 
has  been  dry  and  firm,  and,  with  the  exception  of  the  ravines 
we  are  compelled  to  cross,  a  better  road  could  not  be  desired. 
Distance  20  miles. 

June  7. — We  continued  along  the  banks  of  the  Little  Blue 
untn  noon,  when  the  trail  diverged  from  the  stream  to  the 
right,  ascending  over  the  bluffs,  into  the  high  table-land  of  the 
prairie,  in  order  to  strike  the  Platte  river,  the  estimated  dis- 
*iance  of  which  from  this  point  is  twenty-seven  miles.  We 
supplied  ourselves  with  water  and  wood,  expecting  to  encamp 
'.o-night  where  neither  of  these  could  be  obtained.  The  soil  of 
*-he  praiine  is  thin,  and  the  grass  and  other  vegetation  presents 
X  bUghted  and  stunted  appearance.  I  did  not  notice  a  solitary 
flower  in  bloom,  between  the  Little  Blue  and  our  encampment. 

About  two  o'clock,  p.  m,,  in  crossing  a  ravine  the  btxnk  of 
which  was  steep,  one  of  the  axletrees  of  our  wagon  broke  down 
entirely,  and  our  progress  consequently  was  suspended. 
This  would  have  been  a  most  serious  disaster,  detaining  us 
probably  a  whole  day,  but  for  the  fact  that  we  had  brought 
with  us  from  Independence  duplicate  axletrees.  The  train 
"  rolled"  past  us,  but  a  number  of  men  sufficient  to  assist  in 
repairing  the  damage  to  our  vehicle  remained.  The  tools 
with  which  we  had  provided  ourselves  in  the  event  of  accidents. 


AN  AGREEABLE  SCENE  T7 

consisting  of  a  saw,  shaving-knife,  augers,  chisels,  hammers, 
etc.  etc.,  were  now  found  indispensable.  With  the  aid  of  these, 
Mr.  Eddy,  a  carriage-maker  by  trade,  was  soon  as  busUy  at 
work  in  adjusting  the  new  axletree  to  the  size  of  the  irons 
appertaining  to  the  wheels,  as  if  he  had  been  in  his  own  shop  at 
home.  The  damage  was  fully  repaired,  and  our  wagon  as  strong 
if  not  stronger  than  before  at  sunset,  when  we  started  for  camp. 

The  twilight  soon  melted  into  moonlight,  and  the  evening 
was  serene  and  beautiful.  As  we  jogged  along  at  our  leisure 
over  the  smooth  road,  objects  indistinctly  observed  in  the  dim 
distance  were  shaped  according  to  the  taste  or  fancy  of  the 
several  individuals  of  the  party,  to  represent  buffaloes,  bears, 
elk,  and  Indians.  We  came  in  sight  of  om-  encampment  about 
half-past  ten  o'clock.  The  tents  and  wagon-covers  at  the  dis- 
tance of  a  mile,  appeared  in  tlie  moonlight  like  a  cluster  of 
small  white  cottages  composing  a  country  village.  Some  trees 
near  tlie  tents  strengthened  the  tigreeable  illusion.  To  my 
surprise,  wlien  I  approached  nearer  the  encampment,  1  foxmd 
the  corral  formed  on  a  handsome  sloping  lawn  near  the  brink  of 
a  chain  of  small  pools  of  clear  water,  shaded  by  ash  and  elm 
trees.  This  was  imexpected,  as  we  had  been  informed  there 
was  no  water  between  the  Little  Blue  and  the  Platte.  The 
scene  was  peaceful  and  pleasing,  awakenmg  such  emotions  as 
are  felt  when  revisiting  some  favorite  haunt  of  boyhood,  en- 
graven upon  the  memory  and  consecrated  by  juvenile  affection. 
Being  a  mile  or  two  in  advance  of  our  wagon,  I  sat  down  under 
a  tree  on  the  bank  of  the  first  pool,  and  contemplated  the 
scene  of  peace  and  solitude  until  my  companions  came  up. 
We  then  drove  into  camp,  unharnessed  om-  team,  and  pitched 
our  tent  for  the  night.     Distance  16  miles. 

June  8. — The  prairie  over  which  we  travelled,  xmtil  we 
reached  the  bluffs  that  overlook  the  wide  valley  or  bottom  of 
the  Platte,  is  a  gradually  ascending  plane.  The  soil  is  sandy ; 
the  grass  is  short,  and  grows  in  tufts  and  small  bunches.  I  saw 
no  flowers. 

We  reached  the  bluffs  bordering  the  valley  of  the  Platte, 
about  three  o'clock,  p.  m.,  and    from  these   we  had  a  vie'W 

*** 


78 


PAWNEE    ALARM. 


of  the  valley  beyond  and  the  river  windmg  through  it.  We 
encamped  late  in  the  afternoon  on  the  river  bank,  about 
four  miles  above  the  point  vrhere  we  entered  the  valley.  Op- 
posite to  our  camp  is  Grand  Island,  which  extends  up  and 
down  the  river  farther  than  the  eye  can  reach,  but  its  exact 
dimension  I  do  not  know. 

The  Platte  here  (its  waters  being  divided  by  Grand  Island) 
IS  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  in  breadth.  Its  current  is 
sluggish  and  turbid.  The  timber  consists  of  a  few  cotton- wood 
trees,  and  these  piincipally  are  on  the  island.  The  bottom  on 
the  southern  side  is  about  three  or  three  and  a  half  miles  in 
width.  The  soU  near  the  river  appears  to  be  fertile,  but  next 
to  the  blufife  it  is  sandy,  and  the  grass  and  other  vegetation  pre- 
sent a  stunted  and  blighted  appearance.  Small  spots  in  the 
bottom  are  covered  with  a  white  efflorescence  of  sahne  and  alka- 
line substances  combined. 

While  marchmg  across  the  valley  this  afternoon,  I  saw 
numbers  of  antelopes,  and  of  the  curlew,  a  large  and  fine  bird. 
One  of  the  former  was  killed  by  Mr.  Grayson,  and  brought  into 
camp.  The  flesh  is  coarser  than  that  of  the  deer,  but  I  thought 
it  more  juicy  and  tender. 

We  met  this  morning  a  man  belonging  to  a  company  of 
Oregon  emigrants,  which  had  encamped  last  night  about  five 
miles  in  advance  of  us.  He  stated,  that  a  party  of  twenty  or 
thirty  Pawnee  Indians  had  attempted  to  break  into  their  camp, 
and  that  they  had  much  difficulty  in  keeping  them  off.  This 
company,  to-night,  is  about  three  miles  from  us ;  and  the  report 
of  fire-anns  being  heard  in  that  direction,  it  was  conjectured 
i,hat  their  difficulties  with  the  Indians  had  been  renewed.  A 
party  of  our  men  volunteered  to  march  to  their  assistance. 
They  returned,  and  reported  that  no  Indians  had  been  seen  in 
the  vicinity. 

The  wood  for  our  camp-fires,  to-night,  has  been  obtained 
(by  wading  the  river)  from  the  island  opposite.  Although  the 
turbid  water,  rolling  in  eddies,  appears,  by  a  glance  at  its  sur- 
face, to  be  of  great  depth,  yet  when  sounded,  in  no  place  is  it 
more  than  four  feet  deep.     Distance  26  miles. 


PLATTE    RIVER HUMAN    BONES.  79 

June  9. — Tlie  morning  air  is  pleasant  and  imigoratmg.  The 
dew,  heretofore,  has  wet  the  grass  as  much  as  a  fall  of  rain , 
and  usually  it  has  not  been  evaporated  until  eleven  or  twelve 
o'clock.  This  morning  the  grass  was  not  perceptibly  damp ; 
and  from  this  time  forward,  I  am  informed,  we  shall  rarely 
witness  the  phenomenon  of  copious  dew. 

Our  route,  to-day,  has  been  along  the  bank  of  the  Platte ; 
the  general  course  of  which  is  nearly  from  the  west  to  the  east. 
After  passing  the  head  of  Grand  Island,  about  eight  miles 
above  our  encampment,  the  river  expands  in  breadth,  presenting 
a  surface  of  water  two  miles  wide  ;  and  resembling  the  Missouri 
or  the  Mississippi.  Although  the  channel  is  so  broad,  indica- 
ting to  the  eye  a  large  volume  of  water,  the  stream  is,  never- 
theless, so  shallow,  that  in  many  places  it  can  be  forded  without 
wetting  the  pantaloons,  if  well  rolled  up  above  the  knees.  The 
bed  of  the  river  is  composed  of  sand.  This  is  constantly  shifting 
its  position  by  the  action  of  the  current,  and  fresh  deposites  are 
made.  The  banks  of  the  Platte  are  low,  not  rising  more  than 
four  feet  above  the  present  sm-face  of  the  water.  The  bottom, 
at  this  point,  I  do  not  think,  is  often  inundated ;  such  is  the 
breadth  of  the  channel,  that  an  immense  body  of  water  would  be 
required  to  raise  the  stream  above  its  banks.  For  all  the  pui-- 
poses  of  na-\agation  the  Platte  is  a  nullity. 

The  soil  of  the  Platte  bottom  appears  to  be  indurated  by 
drought.  Occasionally  there  are  rnarshy  places,  but  these  are 
easily  avoided ;  and  the  trail  in  general  is  dry  and  hard. 

One  of  our  party  who  left  the  train  to  hunt  through  the 
valley,  brought  into  camp  this  evening  a  human  skull.  He 
stated  that  the  place  where  he  found  it  was  whitened  with 
human  bones.  Doubtless  this  spot  was  the  scene  of  some 
Indian  massacre,  or  a  battle-field  where  hostile  tribes  had  met 
and  destroyed  each  other.  I  could  learn  no  explanatory  tradi- 
tion ;  but  the  tragedy,  whatever  its  occasion,  occurred  many 
years  ago.  The  bones  of  buffalo,  whitened  by  the  action  of 
the  atmosphere,  are  seen  every  few  yards. 

A  sort  of  post-office  communication  is  frequently  established 
by  the  emigrant  companies.     The  information  which  they  de- 


80  ISLANDS BUFFALO    CHIPS. 

are  to  communicate  is  sometimes  written  upon  the  skulls  of  buf- 
faloes,— sometimes  upon  small  strips  of  smooth  planks, — and  at 
others  a  stake  or  stick  being  driven  into  the  ground,  and  split 
at  the  top,  a  manuscript  note  is  inserted  in  it.  These  are  con- 
spicuously placed  at  the  side  of  the  trail,  and  are  seen  and  read 
by  succeeding  companies.  One  of  the  last-described  notices 
we  saw  this  morning.  It  purported  to  be  written  by  the  cap- 
tain of  a  company  from  Platte  county.  Mo.,  a  portion  of  which 
was  bound  for  California,  and  a  portion  for  Oregon.  It  con- 
sisted of  sixty-six  wagons.  They  had  travelled  up  the  Platte  a 
considerable  distance,  passing  through  the  Pawnee  villages, 
with  which  Indians  they  had  had  some  difficulties.  They  had 
also  suffered  much  from  the  rains  and  high  waters.  They  were 
now  one  day  in  advance  of  us.  The  number  of  emigrants  on 
the  road  for  Oregon  and  California,  I  estimate  at  three  thou- 
sand. 

We  encamped  late  this  afternoon  on  the  bank  of  the  Platte. 
From  our  position  I  counted  twenty-five  islands,  varying  in 
dimensions,  generally  from  a  rod  to  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  di- 
ameter. The  green  herbage,  trees,  and  shrubbery  upon  them, 
assume  many  singular  and  rather  fantastic  shapes,  representing 
in  the  distance,  ships,  gondolas,  elephants,  camels,  flat-boats, 
etc.  etc.  The  landscape  composed  of  these  objects  in  the  river, 
is  fairy-like  and  highly  pleasing  to  the  eye. 

At  this  time  there  are  but  few  flowers  in  bloom  in  the  valley 
of  the  Platte.  I  have  noticed  none  varying  from  those  of  the 
prairies  which  we  have  travelled  over,  and  rarely  any  of  these. 
Our  fuel  for  cooking  is  what  is  called  "  buff'alo  chips,"  which  is 
the  deposite  of  manure  made  by  the  herds  of  buff'alo  that  have 
roamed  over  this  region  in  years  past,  and  has  become  per- 
fectly dry,  burning  with  a  lively  blaze  and  producing  a  strong 
heat.  Tlie  "  chips"  are  an  excellent  substitute  for  wood.  Some 
ducks,  plover,  and  curlews,  were  killed  to-day.  Distance  18 
miles. 

June  10. — Our  route  the  entire  day  lias  been  up  the  bottom 
of  the  Platte,  frequently  near  its  bank.  The  river  maintains  its 
expansive  width,  and  is  dotted  with  numerous  small  green  islets 


PRAIRIE-DOG   TOWN.  81 

The  valley  on  the  opposite  side  appears,  from  the  distance  at 
which  we  view  it,  to  be  a  plain  of  sand.  The  vegetation  of  last 
year  not  having  been  burnt  off,  is  still  standing,  and  hides  with 
its  brown  drapery  the  fresh  growth  of  the  present  year,  and 
hence  the  barren  aspect. 

We  saw  from  our  encampment  this  morning  eight  small 
boats,  loaded,  as  we  ascertained  by  the  aid  of  a  glass,  with  bales) 
of  furs.  Tlie  boats  were  consti-ucted  of  light  plank,  and  wei'e 
what  are  called  "  Mackinaw  boats."  The  water  of  the  river  is 
so  shallow,  that  the  men  navigating  this  fleet  were  frequentl}- 
obliged  to  jump  into  the  stream,  and  with  their  strength  force 
the  boats  over  the  bars  or  push  them  into  deeper  water.  We 
watched  them  from  sunrise  until  8  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and 
in  that  time  they  did  not  advance  down  stream  more  than  a 
mile. 

I  rode  to-day  through  a  village  of  prairie-dogs.  The  village 
covered  several  acres.  Scattered  over  this  space  there  were, 
perhaps,  five  hundred  small  conical  elevations  raised  by  these 
animals  in  excavating  their  subterraneous  dweUings.  I  saw 
large  numbers  of  the  diminutive  residents  of  this  populous  town. 
They  are  about  the  size  and  of  the  proportions  of  the  Norway 
rat,  and  their  hair  is  a  mixture  of  light  brown  and  black 
When  I  approached  then-  habitations  a  multitude  could  be  seen 
scampering  about,  and  hard  barking  with  a  shrill  but  rather 
playful  and  pleasing  sound,  or  tone  of  voice.  The  whole  of 
them,  however,  soon  ceased  their  music,  and  ran  into  their 
holes,  from  whence  they  peered  their  heads  with  a  very  timid 
and  innocent  expression  of  countenance.  The  rattlesnake  and 
the  owl  are  said  to  be  the  associates  of  these  singular  and  or- 
derly little  animals,  but  whether  this  statement  is  or  is  not  true, 
I  could  not,  from  what  I  saw,  determine.  Some  of  our  party 
shot  several  of  them,  and  the  meat  is  said  to  be  tender  and  of 
a  good  flavor. 

We  encamped  this  afternoon  on  a  small  creek  emptying  into 
the  Platte,  the  waters  of  which  are  brackish  and  disagreeable 
to  the  taste,  and  not  conducive  to  health.  This  remark  is  ap- 
plicable to  many  of  the  small  affluents  of  the  Platte.    The  moa< 


82  MODNTAIN  VOYAGERS. 

quitoes,  morning  and  evening,  have  been  very  troublesome  since 
we  entered  this  valley.  They  collect  about  our  animals  and 
ourselves  in  immense  swarms,  and  bite  with  the  most  ravenous 
eagerness.  The  slightest  puncture  of  their  probosces,  inflames 
the  skin  and  produces  a  most  painful  sensation.  Distance  18 
miles, 

June  11. — ^The  soil  and  scenery  of  oui*  day's  march  have  pre- 
sented few  varieties  worthy  of  notice.  The  breadth  of  the  river 
bottom  on  the  southern  side,  is  from  two  and  a  half  to  foui- 
miles.  The  blufi"s,  as  we  advanced  up  the  stream,  become 
more  elevated  and  broken.  Sometimes  they  present  a  sloping, 
grassy  surface,  blending  gently  with  the  level  plain  ; — at  others, 
they  assume  the  form  of  perpendicular,  or  overhanging  preci- 
pices, with  a  face  of  bare  and  barren  sand,  so  compact  as  to 
appear  like  solidified  rock. 

The  tracks  and  other  signs  of  buffalo  have  been  seen  fre- 
quently dm'ing  the  day,  but  none  of  the  animals  have  yet  been 
discovered.  It  is  probable  that  the  large  nimiber  of  emigrants 
who  have  preceded  us,  have  driven  the  few  bufi'aloes  which 
descend  the  Platte  so  low  as  this,  into  the  hills.  The  bleaching 
skeletons  of  these  animals  are  strewn  over  the  plain  on  all  sides, 
ghastly  witnesses  deposited  here,  of  a  retreating  and  fast  perish- 
uig  race.  At  some  future  epoch  in  geological  history,  they 
will  claim  the  attention  of  the  curious  scientific  natm^alist. 

I  observed  the  cactus,  or  common  prickly-pear,  in  bloom, 
frequently  on  the  march.  The  flower  is  a  pale  yellow.  Many 
antelopes  have  been  seen,  but  it  seems  almost  vain  to  attempt 
to  hunt  them.  Their  timidity  and  fleetness  are  such,  that  they 
cannot  be  approached  except  by  stealth,  and  to  do  this  on 
the  level  and  bare  plain,  is  very  difficult. 

About  1 1  o'clock  this  morning,  being  considerably  in  advance 
of  our  train,  I  discovered  a  man  at  the  distance  of  half  a 
mile,  standing  in  tlie  trail  leaning  upon  his  rifle.  He  was  dressed 
in  the  hunting  costume  of  tlie  mount^-ibis, — buckskin  sliirt,  pan- 
taloons, and  moccasins.  After  the  ordinary  salutations,  he 
informed  me  that  his  name  was  Bourdeau ; — that  he  was  from 
St,  Charles,  Mo.,  and  was  one  of  a  party  which  left  a  small 


MOUNTAIN    VCYAGEURS.  83 

tradiiig-post  on  the  Platte,  a  few  miles  below  Fort  Laramie, 
early  in  May.  They  were  navigating  two  "  Mackinaw  boats" 
loaded  with  buflfalo  skins,  and  were  bound  for  the  nearest  port 
on  the  Missouri.  He  stated  that  they  had  met  with  continual 
obstructions  and  difficulties  on  then-  voyage  from  its  commence- 
ment, owing  to  the  lowness  of  the  water,  although  their  boats, 
when  loaded,  drew  but  fifteen  inches.  They  had  at  length 
found  it  impossible  to  proceed,  and  had  drawn  their  boats  to 
the  shore  of  the  river,  and  landed  their  furs.  Their  intention 
now  was  to  procure  wagons  if  they  could,  and  wheel  then-  cargo 
into  the  settlements. 

To  meet  men  speaking  ovir  own  language,  in  this  remote 
wilderness,  was  to  us  an  interesting  incident.  Our  train  com- 
ing up,  we  determined  to  proceed  as  far  as  the  place  where  the 
party  of  Mr.  Bourdeau  had  landed  their  furs,  (about  four  miles,) 
and  there  to  noon,  in  order  to  give  all  interested  an  opportvmity 
of  making  inqiuries,  and  to  write  letters  to  their  friends  in  the 
(Jnited  States,  to  send  by  this  conveyance.  The  company  of 
voyageurs  consisted  of  Mr.  Bourdeau,  Mr.  Richard,  Mr.  Bran- 
ham,  formerly  of  Scott  county,  Ky.,  a  half-breed  Mexican,  an 
Indian,  and  several  Creole  Frenchmen,  of  Missoiui.  The  Mexi- 
can and  the  Indian  were  engaged  in  frying  bread  in  buffalo 
tallow  for  dinner.  Their  cooking  apparatus  and  arrangements 
did  not  present  the  most  cleanly  aspect,  but  the  results  of  their 
culinary  operations  were  such  as  to  excite  the  appetite  of  the 
epicure  of  the  mountains.  The  whole  party  presented  a  half- 
civilized  and  half-savage  appearance  in  their  dress  and  manners. 
The  Americans  were  all  well-formed,  athletic,  and  hardy  young 
men,  with  that  daring,  resolute,  and  intelhgent  expression  of 
coimtenance  which  generally  characterizes  the  trappers,  hunters, 
and  traders  of  the  mountains.  Their  avocation,  position,  and 
connections  force  them  to  be  ever  watchful,  and  ever  ready  to 
meet  danger  in  its  most  threatening  forms. 

We  traded  with  them  for  their  buffalo  skins,  giving  in  ex- 
change flour,  bacon,  sugar,  and  coffee,  which  they  needed. 
Sugar  and  coffee  were  rated  at  one  dollar  per  pound,  flour  a* 
fifty  cents,  and  buffalo-robes  at  three  dollars. 


84  BLUFF    SCENERY. 

Messrs.  Bourdeau,  Richard,  and  Branham  accompanied  lis  to 
our  encampment  this  afternoon,  and  remained  with  us  dmiiig 
the  night.  They  procured  a  horse  and  such  other  articles  a> 
they  needed  for  their  joiu-ney  into  the  settlements.  Our  camp 
is  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Platte,  which  at  this  point  presents  a 
sheet  of  turbid  water,  between  two  and  three  miles  in  breadth, 
dotted  with  mmierous  small  green  islets,  which  give  a  most 
pleasing  rehef  to  the  monotonous  landscape.  Distance  17 
miles. 

June  12. — The  mornings  are  uniformly  deUghtful  and  the 
atmosphere  elastic  and  bracing,  in  this  region.  The  sun  shine-s 
with  great  power  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  but  visually  a  fresh 
breeze  mitigates  the  intensity  of  its  heat. 

The  banks  of  the  river,  like  those  of  the  Mississippi,  are  con- 
siderably higher  than  the  sm-face  of  the  plain  next  to  the  bluft's. 
There  is  a  verj^  gradual  descent  from  the  stream  to  the  point 
where  the  bluffs  'comiect  with  the  plain.  This  is  produced  by 
the  deposite  of  detritus  when  tlie  water  from  the  melting  snows 
above  overflow  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  partially  inundate 
the  valley. 

This  afternoon,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Kirkendall,  I  left  tlie 
train  for  the  purpose  of  crossing  the  valley  and  exploring  the 
hills  or  bluffs,  in  search  of  buffalo.  We  saw  grazing  on  the 
plain,  near  the  foot  of  the  bluffs,  numerous  herds  of  antelopes  ; 
but  could  never  approach  them  within  lifle-shot.  We  entered 
the  bluffs  through  a  gorge  or  ra\'ine,  which  we  followed  for 
about  two  miles,  when  vt^e  ascended  to  the  summit  of  one  of  the 
highest  elevations.  From  this,  on  one  side,  we  could  see  the 
Platte  and  its  broad  valley  for  a  long  distance.  On  the  other 
side  were  the  innumerable  sandy  peaks,  assuming  every  variety 
of  rude  and  misshapen  configuration ;  and  separated  from  each 
other  by  deep  hollows  and  ravines  and  impassable  gulfs, 
hollowed  out  by  torrents  of  water,  or  the  action  of  the  winds 
upon  tlie  dry  and  sandy  composition  of  the  ground.  More 
wUd,  desolate,  and  i*ugged  scenery  than  is  presented  by  these 
bluffs,  after  you  enter  them,  is  rarely  seen.  Our  attempt  to 
reach  the  prairie,  where,  from  the  signs,  we  expected  to  find 


FIRST    BUFFALO    HEAT.  86 

buffalo,  was  abortive.  After  winding  over  the  steep  ridges  and 
through  the  deep  hollows  for  several  hours,  we  at  last  became 
so  entangled,  that  for  some  time  we  felt  doubtful  of  forcing  our 
way  out,  without  returning  by  the  same  route  which  we  had 
come.  This,  at  the  risk  in  several  instances  of  our  horses'  necks, 
we  finally  accomplished,  reaching  the  valley  in  safety. 

I  noticed  numerous  fungi,  of  a  globular  shape  ;  some  of  which 
were  ten  inches  in  diameter,  and  perfectly  wliite.  Indications 
of  iron  and  copper  ores  were  seen  in  several  places. 

We  encamped  this  afternoon  on  a  small  branch,  the  waters  of 
which,  when  they  flow,  empty  into  the  Platte.  At  present,  the 
water  stands  in  stagnant  pools.  A  few  cotton-wood  trees  are 
scattered  along  the  stream.  The  dead  limbs  of  these,  with 
"  buftalo  chips,"  compose  our  fuel.  Mr.  Reed  shot  a  large  elk 
to-day,  and  brought  the  carcass  into  camp.  The  flesh  of  the 
elk  is  coarse,  but  this  was  tender,  fat,  and  of  a  good  flavor. 
Distance  16  miles. 

June  13. — The  wood- work  of  many  of  the  wagon-wheels 
have  contracted  so  much  from  the  efiects  of  the  dry  atmosphere 
on  the  Platte,  that  the  tires  have  become  loose,  and  require  re- 
setting. There  being  sufficient  wood  to  make  the  fires  necessary 
for  this  purpose  at  this  encampment,  it  was  determined  that 
we  should  remain  for  the  day. 

Messrs.  Grayson  and  Boggs,  who  crossed  the  Platte  yesterday 
afternoon  for  the  purpose  of  hunting,  returned  this  morning 
with  their  horses  loaded  with  the  choice  pieces  of  a  buffalo  cow 
which  they  had  killed  about  fifteen  miles  below  our  camp.  The 
meat  was  tender  and  juicy,  but  not  fat.  They  reported  that 
they  saw  large  numbers  of  buftalo  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river ;  and  that  they  could  apprc  ach  them  within  rifle-shot 
without  difficulty.  The  day  has  been  pleasant,  with  a  most 
agreeable  temperature  under  the  shade  of  our  tents. 

June  14. — An  Indian  was  discovered  last  night  by  one  of  the 
guard,  lurking  in  the  bushes ;  no  doubt  intending  to  steal  some 
of  our  horses  He  ran  off"  with  great  speed  when  the  alarm 
was  given. 

We  resumed  our  march  at  the  usual  he  u*.     About  five  miles 

8 


86  FATAL  EFFECTS  OP  MEDICIKB. 

from  our  encampment  we  were  met  by  three  men  belonging  t« 
an  emigrant  company,  which  they  h^d  left  last  night  about 
tweuty-five  or  thirty  miles  in  advance.  They  were  in  search 
of  a  doctor.  A  boy  eight  or  nine  years  of  age  had  had  his  leg 
cnished  by  falling  from  the  tongue  of  a  wagon,  and  being  run 
over  by  its  wheels ;  and  besides,  there  were  in  the  company  a 
number  of  persons  ill  with  fevers  and  other  complaints. 

There  being  no  physician  in  our  party ,^and  possessing,  from 
my  former  studies  and  later  experience,  some  pathological  and 
anatomical  knowledge,  together  with  such  a  knowledare  of  the 
pharmacopoeia  and  materia  medica  as  to  be  fully  sensible  that 
many  patients  are  killed,  rather  than  cured,  by  the  injudicious 
use  of  medicine,  I  had  consented  on  several  occasions,  when 
persons  belonging  to  our  company  were  seized  with  sickness,  to 
give  them  such  advice  and  to  prescribe  and  administer  such 
medicines  as  I  thought  would  be  beneficial.  I  informed  the 
patients  in  all  cases  that  I  was  no  "  doctor,"  but  acted  rather 
in  the  character  of  the  "  good  Samaritan."  By  using  this  phrase 
I  would  not  be  understood  as  assuming  to  myself  the  merits  and 
virtues  of  the  indi\adual  who,  under  that  name,  has  been  ren- 
dered forever  memorable  and  illustrious  for  his  humanity  by 
the  impressive  parable  of  our  Saviour.  In  all  cases  of  sickness 
in  our  party  where  I  was  called,  I  have  the  satisfaction  of  know- 
ing that  no  one  died.  This  I  do  not  attribute  to  any  medical 
skill  or  science  of  my  own,  but  to  the  fact  that  medicines  were 
exhibited  in  small  quantities,  and  such  as  would  not  crush  the 
recuperative  powers  and  sanative  impiilses  of  nature.  On  this 
long  and  toilsome  journey,  during  wliich  it  is  impossible  to  sus- 
pend the  march  for  any  length  of  time,  doses  of  exhausting 
medicines  should  never  be  administered  to  the  patient.  If  the} 
are,  the  consequences  most  frequently  must  result  in  death. 
The  fatigues  of  the  journey  are  as  great  as  any  ordinary  consti- 
tution can  bear;  and  the  relaxing  and  debilitating  effects  of 
medicines  injudiciously  prescribed  in  large  quantities,  are  often, 
I  believe,  fatal,  when  the  patient  would  otherwise  recover. 

It  80  turned  out  that  I  had  acquired  the  imdeserved  repu- 
tetiou  of  being  a  great  "doctor,"  in  several  of  the  emigrant 


MOSQUITOES  AND  GNATS.  87 

companies  in  advance  and  in  our  rear,  and  the  three  men  who 
had  met  us,  above  noticed,  had  come  for  me.  I  told  them, 
when  they  appKed  to  me,  that  I  was  not  a  physician,  that  1 
had  no  surgical  instruments,  and  that  I  doubted  if  I  could  be 
of  any  service  to  those  who  were  suffering.  They  stated  in 
reply  that  they  had  heard  of  me,  and  that  they  would  not  be 
satisfied  unless  I  accompanied  them  in  all  haste  to  their  en- 
campment. I  finally  consented  to  their  urgent  demands,  feel- 
ing desirous  of  alleviating  as  far  as  I  could  the  miseries  of  the 
sick  and  disabled,  which  here  are  more  dreadful  than  can  be 
imagined. 

Making  my  arrangements  as  soon  as  I  could,  I  mounted  the 
horse  which  had  been  brought  for  my  conveyance — one  of  those 
hard  trotters  whose  unelastic  gait  is  painfully  fatiguing  to  the 
rider.  You  are  obliged  to  protect  yourself  from  the  concussion 
caused  by  the  contact  of  his  feet  with  the  earth,  by  springing 
from  the  saddle  at  each  stride.  We  crossed,  in  a  few  miles,  a 
small  branch  shaded  by  some  oak-trees.  In  the  bank  of  this 
we  foimd  a  spring  of  cool  water.  There  was,  however,  such  a 
multitude  of  mosquitoes  and  gnats  surrounding  it,  that  we  had 
but  little  enjoyment  in  its  generous  supply  of  refreshing  waters. 
The  air  is  in  places  filled  Avith  these  troublesome  insects,  and  the 
venom  of  their  bite  is  frequently  seriously  afflictive.  At  the 
spring  above  alluded  to,  the  trail  recedes  from  the  river,  and 
runs  along  imder  the  bluffs,  which,  to-day,  seemed  to  shut  from 
us  every  breath  of  air,  rendering  the  heat  of  the  sun  oppressive 
almost  to  suffocation.  I  observed  that  some  of  the  bluffs  which 
we  passed  were  composed  of  calcareous  rock,  and  the  debris 
below  was  of  the  same  composition.  I  shot  with  my  pistol, 
while  riding  this  morning,  an  antelope,  at  a  distance  of  150  yards. 

After  a  most  fatiguing  and  exhausting  ride,  we  reached  the 
encampment  to  which  I  had  been  called  about  five  o'clock,  p.  m. 
The  men  who  had  been  sent  for  me  had  given  no  description  of 
the  case  of  fracture,  other  than  that  which  has  above  been  stated. 
I  supposed,  as  a  matter  of  course,  that  the  accident  had  occurred 
whe  preceding  day.  When  I  reached  the  tent  of  the  unfortunate 
family  to  which  the  boy  belonged,  I  found  him  stretched  out 


88  BARBAROUS  SURGICAL  OPERATION 

upon  a  bench  made  of  planks,  ready  for  the  operation  which 
they  expected  I  would  perform.  I  soon  learned,  from  the 
mother,  that  the  accident  occasioning  the  fracture  had  occurred 
nine  days  previously.  That  a  person  professing  to  be  a  "  doc- 
tor," had  wrapped  some  hnen  loosely  about  the  leg,  and  made 
a  sort  of  trough,  or  plank  box,  in  which  it  had  been  confined. 
In  this  condition  the  child  had  remained,  without  any  dressing 
of  his  wounded  Umb,  amtU  last  night,  when  he  called  to  his 
mother,  and  told  her  that  he  could  feel  worms  crawling  in  his 
leg !  This,  at  first,  she  supposed  to  be  absurd ;  but  the  boy 
insisting,  an  examination  of  the  wound  for  the  first  time  was 
made,  and  it  was  discovered  that  gangrene  had  taken  place,  and 
tlie  limb  of  the  child  was  swarming  with  maggots !  They  then 
immediately  dispatched  their  messengers  for  me.  I  made  an 
examination  of  the  fractured  limb,  and  ascertained  that  what 
the  mother  had  stated  was  correct.  The  limb  had  been  badly 
fractured,  and  had  never  been  bandaged  ;  and  from  neglect 
gangrene  had  supervened,  and  the  child's  leg,  from  his  foot  to 
his  knee,  was  in  a  state  of  putrefaction.  He  was  so  much  en- 
feebled by  his  sufierings  that  death  was  stamped  upon  his 
countenance,  and  I  was  satisfied  that  he  could  not  live  twenty- 
four  hours,  much  less  survive  an  operation.  I  so  informed  the 
mother,  stating  to  her  that  to  amputate  the  Hmb  would  only 
hasten  the  boy's  death,  and  add  to  his  pains  while  li\ang ;  de- 
clining at  the  same  time,  peremptorily,  all  participation  in  a 
proceeding  so  useless  and  barbarous  under  the  circumstances. 
She  implored  me,  with  tears  and  moans,  not  thus  to  give  up 
her  child  without  an  effort.  I  told  her  again,  that  all  efforts 
to  save  him  would  be  useless,  and  only  add  to  the  anguish  ol 
which  he  was  now  dying. 

But  tins  could  not  satisfy  a  mother's  affection.  She  could 
not  thus  yield  her  offspring  to  the  cold  embrace  of  death,  and  a 
tomb  in  the  wilderness.  A  Canadian  Frenchman,  who  belonged 
to  this  emigrating  party,  was  present,  and  stated  that  he  had 
formerly  been  an  assistant  to  a  surgeon  in  some  hospital,  and 
had  seen  many  operations  of  this  nature  performed,  and  that  he 
would  amputate  the  child's  limb,  if  I  declined  doing  it,  and  tb« 


I 


DISTRESSING  SCENE.  89 

mother  desired  it.  I  could  not  repress  an  involuntary  shud- 
der when  I  heard  this  proposition,  the  consent  of  the  weeping 
woman,  and  saw  the  preparations  made  for  the  butchery  of 
the  httle  boy.  The  insti-uments  to  be  used  were  a  common 
butcher-knife,  a  carpenter's  handsaw,  and  a  shoemaker's  awl 
to  take  up  the  arteries.  The  man  commenced  by  gashing  the 
flesh  to  the  bone  around  the  calf  of  the  leg,  which  was  in  a 
state  of  putrescence.  He  then  made  an  incision  just  below  the 
knee  and  commenced  sawing ;  but  before  he  had  completed  the 
amputation  of  the  bone,  he  concluded  that  the  operation  should 
be  performed  above  the  knee.  During  these  demonstrations 
the  boy  never  uttered  a  groan  or  a  complaint,  but  I  saw  from 
the  change  in  his  countenance,  that  he  was  dying.  The  opera- 
tor, without  noticing  this,  proceeded  to  sever  the  leg  above 
the  knee.  A  cord  was  drawn  round  the  limb,  above  the  spot 
where  it  was  intended  to  sever  it,  so  tight  that  it  cut  through 
the  skin  into  the  flesh.  The  knife  and  saw  were  then  apphed 
and  the  limb  amputated.  A  few  drops  of  blood  only  oozed 
from  the  stump  ;  the  child  was  dead — his  miseries  were  over ! 

The  scene  of  weeping  and  distress  which  succeeded  this 
tragedy  cannot  be  described.  The  mother  was  frantic,  and  the 
brothers  and  sisters  of  the  deceased  boy  were  infected  by  the 
intense  grief  of  their  parent.  From  this  harrowing  spectacle,  I 
was  called  to  visit  the  father  of  the  dead  child,  who  was  lying 
prostrate  in  his  tent,  incapable  of  moving  a  limb,  with  an  inflam- 
matory rheumatism,  produced,  as  I  supposed  from  his  relation, 
by  wading  streams  and  exposure  to  rains  d\u-ing  the  com- 
mencement of  the  journey,  while  under  the  influence  of  large 
doses  of  calomel.  He  was  sufiering  from  violent  pains  in  all  of 
his  bones,  which,  added  to  his  mental  afiiiction  from  the  death 
of  his  child,  seemed  to  overwhelm  him.  He  told  me  that  he 
had  been  unable  to  walk  or  sit  upright  for  four  weeks.  He 
begged  that  I  woidd  prescribe  something  for  his  rehef.  I 
comforted  him  with  all  the  encouragement  in  reference  to  his 
case  that  I  could  conscientiously  give,  and  left  some  medicines, 
enjoining  him,  however,  not  to  deviate  the  thousandth  part  of 
a  scruple  from  my  directiors,  unless  he  wished  to  die  at  oncQ 

8-- 


90  MEDICAL    PRACTICE. 

The  propensity  of  those  afflicted  by  disease,  on  this  journey 
b  frequently,  to  devour  medicines  a^  they  would  food,  undei 
the  delusion  that  Urge  quantities  will  more  speedily  and  effect- 
ually produce  a  cure.     The  reverse  is  the  fact,  and  it  is  some- 
time dangerous  to  trust  a  patient  with  more  than  a  single  dose. 

From  this  famUy  I  was  called  to  visit  a  woman,  the  wife  of 
one  of  the  emigrants,  who  had  been  Ul  for  several  weeks  of  an 
intermittent  fever.  She  had  taken  large  quantities  of  medicine, 
and  her  strength  and  constitution  appeared  to  be  so  much  ex- 
ha\isted,  that  I  had  no  hopes  of  her  recovery,  unless  the 
company  to  which  she  belonged  could  s\ispend  their  march  for 
a  week  or  more,  and  give  her  rest.  This  I  commimicated  to 
her  husband,  and  left  such  medicines,  and  gave  such  advice  in 
regard  to  nursing  as  I  thought  would  be  the  most  useful  in  hei 
case.  A  yoimg  man  appUed  to  me  for  relief,  who  after  I  had 
examined  him,  I  beUeved  to  be  laboring  under  a  disease  of  the 
heart.  I  told  him  that  I  could  do  nothing  for  him ;  that  the 
journey  might  effect  his  cure,  but  that  no  medicine  which  I 
possessed  woiild  have  any  other  than  an  injurious  effect. 

After  \asiting  some  four  or  five  other  persons  more  or  less 
indisposed,  and  prescribing  for  them,  by  invitation  of  CoL 
Thornton  I  walked  from  this  encampment  to  his,  about  three- 
fourths  of  a  mUe  distant.  Col.  T.,  it  will  be  recollected,  was  a 
member  of  the  Oregon  party,  which  separated  fi'om  us  about 
two  weeks  since.  In  crossing  the  Platte  bottom  to  his  encamp- 
ment, we  forded  two  small  streams  flowing  into  the  main  river. 
Their  waters  are  brackish  and  bitter  with  saline  and  alkaline 
impregnation.  On  our  arrival  at  Col.  T.'s  camp,  my  old  acquaint- 
ances and  late  fellow-travellers  were  rejoiced  to  see  me.  They 
evinced  their  pleasure  by  many  kind  and  cordial  manifestations. 
Mrs.  Thornton,  a  lady  of  education  and  polished  manners,  re- 
ceived me  in  her  tent  as  she  would  have  done  in  her  parlor  at 
home.  I  was  most  hospitably  and  agreeably  entertained,  by 
these  my  respected  friends. 

Between  eight  and  nine  o'clock  in  the  evening,  I  was  invited 
to  attend  a  wedding  wliicli  was  to  take  place  in  the  encamp- 
meuL     The  oume  of  Ihe  biidegroom  I  did  not  leam,  but  the 


DEATH — FUNERAL WEDDING BfRTH.  91 

bride  was  a  Miss  Lard,  a  very  pretty  young  lady,  who,  I  doubt 
not,  will  be  the  ancestress  of  future  statesmen  and  heroes  on  the 
shores  of  the  Pacific.  The  wedding  ceremonies  were  performed 
by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Cornwall,  and  took  place  in  the  tent  of  her 
father.  The  candles  were  not  of  wax  nor  very  numerous,  nor 
were  the  ornaments  of  the  apartment  very  gorgeous  or  the 
bridal  bed  very  voluptuous.  The  wedding-cake  was  not  frosted 
with  sugar,  nor  illustrated  with  matrimonial  devices,  after  the 
manner  of  confectioners  in  the  "  settlements ;"  but  cake  was 
handed  round  to  the  whole  party  present.  There  was  no 
music  or  dancing  on  the  occasion.  The  company  separated  soon 
after  the  ceremony  was  performed,  leaving  the  happy  pair  to 
the  enjoyment  of  their  connubial  felicities.  This  was  the  first 
wedding  in  the  wilderness,  at  which  I  had  been  a  guest. 

After  we  left  the  bridal  tent,  in  looking  across  the  plain,  I 
could  see  from  the  light  of  the  torches  and  lanterns  the  funeral 
procession  that  was  conveying  the  corpse  of  the  little  boy  whom 
I  saw  expire,  to  his  last  resting-place,  in  this  desolate  wilder- 
ness. The  faint  glimmer  of  these  hghts,  with  a  knowledge  of 
the  melancholy  duties  which  those  carrying  them  were  per- 
forming, produced  sensations  of  sadness  and  depression.  While 
surveying  this  mournful  funeral  scene,  a  man  arrived  from  another 
encampment  about  a  mile  and  a  half  distant,  and  informed  me 
that  the  wife  of  one  of  the  emigrants  had  just  been  safely  deliv- 
ered of  a  son,  and  that  there  was,  in  consequence  of  this  event, 
great  rejoicing.  I  could  not  but  reflect  upon  the  singular  con- 
currence of  the  events  of  the  day.  A  death  and  funeral,  a 
wedding  and  a  birth,  had  occurred  in  this  wilderness,  within  a 
diameter  of  two  miles,  and  within  two  hours'  time ;  and  to- 
morrow, the  places  where  these  events  had  taken  place,  would 
be  deserted  and  unmarked,  except  by  the  grave  of  the  unfor- 
tunate boy  deceased !  Such  are  the  dispensations  of  Provi- 
dence ! — such  the  checkered  map  of  human  sutfering  and  hu- 
man enjoyment ! 

I  saw  numbers  of  buflfalo  to-day,  and  large  numbers  of  an- 
telope. The  grass  surrounding  the  encampments  is  green  ana 
luxuriant,  but  more  distant  from  the  river  it  is  short  and  thin, 


92  EXTREME  HEAT. 

and  has  a  blighted  appearance.  Buffalo  chips  constitute  the 
only  fuel.  Having  left  my  thermometer  in  the  wagon,  I  could 
not  make  an  observation  to-night.  Wind  east,  with  clouds  and 
flashes  of  lightning.     Distance  30  miles. 


CHAPTER    VII. 

• 

Country  becomes  more  arid  and  sterile — Return  party  from  Oregon — 
Herds  of  bufFalo— Dead  oxen — Chalybeate  spring  at  the  ford  of  the 
Platte — Killing  buffaloes — Buffalo  meat — Resignation  of  Colonel  Rus- 
sell and  other  officers — Determination  to  change  our  mode  of  travel — 
Ash  Hollow — General  post-office. — Grave  opened  by  wolves — Chimney 
Rock  in  the  distance — Court-House  Rock — Foetid  water  and  tainted 
atmosphere — Quicksands — Near  view  of  Court-House  Rock — A  man 
m  a  fright — Near  view  of  Chimney  Rock — Scenery  at  Chimney  Rock 
— Horse-trading — Furious  storm — Scott's  Bluff — First  view  of  Rocky 
Mountains — Horse  Creek — Fort  Bernard — Fort  Laramie — Sioux  In- 
dians— Beauty  of  the  Sioux  women — Sioux  Lodges. 

June  15. — Accompanied  by  two  men,  I  started  back  on  the 
irail  to  meet  the  train  to  which  I  was  attached.  We  came  in 
sight  of  the  advance  party  after  travelling  about  four  miles,  and 
I  stopped  until  the  wagons  came  up, — the  two  men  leaving  me 
in  pursuit  of  their  own  party.  When  our  train  came  up,  1  as- 
certained that  they  had  travelled  yesterday  23  miles,  and  about 
three  miles  this  morning. 

Colonel  Russell,  our  captain,  had  been  seized  during  the 
night  with  a  violent  attack  of  chills  and  fever,  and  I  found  him 
in  his  wagon  quite  ill. 

As  wc  advance  up  the  Platte,  tlie  soil  becomes  less  fertile. 
The  vegetation  is  thin  and  short.  The  river  to-day  has  gener- 
ally been  eight  or  ten  miles  from  us  on  our  right.  Ledges  of 
calcareous  rock  frequently  display  themselves  in  the  bluflfs. 
The  lieat  of  the  sun  during  the  day's  march,  has  been  exces- 
wvely  oppressive.     Not  u  cloud  lias  exhibited  itself  on  the  fac« 


TRAVELLERS  FROM  OREGON.  93 

of  the  heavens,  nor  a  tree  or  a  shrub  on  the  surface  of  the 
plain  over  which  we  have  travelled,  or  in  the  distance  as  far 
as  the  eye  could  reach. 

We  encamped  this  afternoon  about  a  mile  from  the  junction 
of  the  north  and  south  forks  of  the  Platte,  near  a  spring  of  cold 
pure  water,  than  which  to  the  weary  and  thirsty  traveller  in 
this  region  nothing  cim  be  more  grateful  and  luxmious.  Na- 
ture, in  tliis  region,  is  parsimonious  m  the  distribution  of  such 
bounties,  and  consequently  when  met  with,  their  value  is  price- 
less to  those  who  have  suffered  through  a  long  day's  march 
under  a  burning  sun,  and  whose  throats  are  parched  with  dust 
and  heat.  Several  of  our  party  who  have  been  hunting  to-day, 
reported  that  they  saw  large  droves  of  buffalo  on  the  plains  to 
the  south  of  us,  numbering  from  five  hundred  to  one  thousand. 
Distance  travelled  from  my  place  of  encampment  last  night  18 
miles. 

June  16. — A  number  of  our  party  were  seized  with  violent 
and  painful  sickness,  brought  on  no  doubt  by  indulging  too 
freely  in  the  cold  water  of  the  spring.  Our  route  to-day  has 
been  up  the  south  fork  of  the  Platte,  the  trail  generally  run- 
ninff  throuo'h  the  bottom  near  the  river.  The  bottom  is  much 
narrower  than  on  the  main  Platte,  and  the  bluffs  are  more  gen- 
tle and  sloping.  The  grass  near  the  bank  of  the  stream  is 
green  and  luxuriant,  but  near  the  bluffs  it  is  very  thin ;  and 
the  soU  still  farther  back  is,  in  many  places,  quite  bare  of  vege- 
tation. 

About  12  o'clock  we  met  a  party  of  five  men,  from. Oregon, 
retm-ning  to  the  United  States.  They  were  a  portion  of  a  com- 
pany which  originally  numbered  eighteen,  and  which  left  Ore- 
gon city  on  the  first  of  March.  They  stopped  at  the  Walla- 
walla  mission  one  month,  and  the  residue  of  the  time  they 
have  been  marching.  Their  baggage  and  provisions  are  packed 
on  mules  and  horses,  and  they  average  from  twenty-five  to 
thirty  mUes  per  day.  One  of  the  party  having  dislocated  his 
shoulder,  with  three  others  stopped  at  Fort  Laramie  until  the 
jijm-ed  man  could  recover  s\iflficiently  to  travel.  The  remain- 
der of  the'  company,  they  stated,  were  about  fifteen  miles  in 


04  rORD  OF  THE  PLATTE CHALYBEATE  SPRING. 

their  rear.  They  had  not  been  molested  in  any  manner  by  tht 
Indians  on  their  route,  although  they  had  met  them  in  various 
places.  They  had  kept  an  accoimt  of  the  emigrant  wagons,  as 
they  met  them,  and  reported  the  number  at  430,  which,  added 
to  our  own,  make  a  total  of  470.  These  are  about  equally 
divided  between  California  and  Oregon.  They  gave  a  flattering 
description  of  the  fertile  portions  of  Oregon.  After  visiting  the 
United  States,  they  intend  to  return  and  settle  permanently  on 
the  Pacific. 

We  saw,  in  the  course  of  the  day,  several  herds  of  buffalo 
grazing  on  the  plains  two  or  three  miles  distant  from  the  trail. 
A  large  and  fat  cow  was  chased  and  shot  near  our  camp  this 
afternoon,  by  Mr.  Grayson,  supplying  us  with  an  abundance  of 
excellent  fresh  beef.  Cacti,  tulips,  and  the  primrose,  have  dis- 
played their  blossoms  along  the  trail  dming  our  march. 

Soon  after  we  encamped,  this  afternoon,  nine  men  belonging 
to  the  Oregon  party,  reported  by  those  we  met  this  morning, 
came  up,  and,  by  our  invitation,  encamped  with  us.  Among 
this  party  is  an  intelligent  young  man  by  the  name  of  Wall, 
from  St.  Louis,  who  has  been  on  the  Pacific  coast  of  South  and 
North  America,  and  among  the  islands,  for  some  years,  and  is 
now  returning  home  by  this  route.  We  learned  from  Mr.  Wall 
that  some  of  the  forward  emigrant  companies  had  lost  their 
cattle  and  horses  by  Indian  depredations.  We  pass,  every  day, 
several  cattle  which  have  been  left  behind,  too  much  crippled, 
or  exhausted  by  fatigue,  to  proceed.  The  Platte  rose  five 
inches  last  night.     Distance  11  miles. 

June  IV. — We  reached  the  ford  of  the  Platte  about  two 
o'clock,  p.  M.,  and  ascertained  by  an  examination  that,  although 
the  river  was  still  rising,  our  wagons  could  pass  over  without 
much  difficulty.  While  waiting  at  the  river  for  our  party  to 
come  up,  I  discovered,  a  short  distance  above  Avhere  the  trail 
enters  tlie  stream  to  cross  it,  a  large  spring  of  cold  water, 
sircjiigly  impregnated  with  iron,  and  slightly  with  sulphur.  I 
drank  freely  of  the  water  of  this  spruig  dming  the  afternoon, 
and  found  its  effects  upon  mc  beneficial.  I  would  advise  thosi 
emigrants  passing  this  way,  who  are  afflicted  with  the  ordinarv 


SHOOTING    BUFFALOES.  9i 

complaints  on  this  portion  of  the  route,  to  visit  this  spring,  and 
when  they  leave  it  to  fill  their  casks  with  the  water,  for  use  on 
the  road. 

Our  wagons  were  all  passed  safely  over  the  river  before  sun- 
set, an  event  thought  to  be  worthy  of  general  congratulation. 
Tlve  stream  was  rising  rapidly  ;  and  when  so  high  that  it  cannot 
be  forded,  owing  to  the  absence  of  timber,  it  forms  an  impassa- 
ble ban-ier  to  the  progress  of  emigrant  parties.  Their  only 
course,  in  such  a  case,  is  to  halt  until  the  water  falls.  Two  or 
three  buffaloes  were  killed  near  our  camp  this  evening.  Dis- 
tance 17  miles. 

June  18. — The  trail  to-day  has  run  along  the  north  bank  of 
the  south  fork  of  the  Platte,  and  we  encamped  at  that  point 
where  the  road  diverges  from  the  stream  to  cross  over  the  prai- 
rie to  the  north  fork.  The  soU  of  the  bottom  is  sandy ;  and 
the  grass,  which  appears  to  have  been  bhghted  by  drought,  is 
short,  thin,  and  brown. 

We  saw  large  herds  of  buffalo  during  our  march,  some  of 
which  approached  us  so  nearly  that  there  was  danger  of  their 
mingling  with  our  loose  cattle.  The  buffalo-hunt  is  a  most 
exciting  sport  to  the  spectator  as  well  as  to  those  engaged  in 
it.  Their  action  when  running  is  awkward  and  clumsy,  but 
their  speed  and  endurance  are  such,  that  a  good  horse  is  required 
to  overtake  them  or  break  them  down  in  a  fair  race.  Although 
the  uninitiated  in  this  sport  may  without  much  difficulty  wound 
one  of  these  animals  with  his  rifle  or  pistol,  it  require."  the  skill 
and  practice  of  a  good  hunter  to  place  the  ball  in  those  parts 
which  are  fatal,  or  which  so  much  disable  the  strong  and  shaggy 
quadruped  as  to  prostrate  him  or  force  him  to  stop  running. 
I  have  known  a  buffalo  to  be  perforated  with  twenty  balls,  and 
yet  be  able  to  maintain  a  distance  between  himself  and  nis  piu-- 
suers.  Experienced  hunters  aim  to  shoot  them  in  the  lungs  or 
the  spine.  From  the  skull  the  ball  rebounds,  flattened  as  from 
a  rock  or  a  surface  of  iron,  and  has  usually  no  other  effect  upon 
the  animal  than  to  increase  his  speed.  A  wound  in  the  spine 
brings  them  to  the  ground  instantly,  and  after  a  woimd  m  the 
lungs  then*  career  is  Soon  suspended  from  difficulty  of  breathing 


96  RESIGNATION  OF  OFFICERS 

They  usually  sink,  rather  than  fall,  upon  their  knees  and 
haunches,  and  in  that  position  remain  until  they  are  dead,  rarely 
rolling  upon  their  backs. 

The  flesh  of  the  bull  is  coarse,  dry,  tough,  and  generally 
poor.  The  beef  from  a  young  fat  heifer  or  cow,  (and  many  of 
them  are  very  fat,)  is  superior  to  oiu-  best  beef.  The  unctuous 
and  juicy  substances  of  the  flesh  are  distributed  through  all  the 
muscular  fibres  and  membranes  in  a  manner  and  an  abundance 
highly  agreeable  to  the  eye  and  delightful  to  the  palate  of  the 
epicure.  The  choice  pieces  of  a  fat  cow,  are  a  strip  of  flesh 
along  each  side  of  the  spine  from  the  shoulders  to  the  rump  ; 
the  tender-loin ;  the  liver ;  the  heart ;  the  tongue ;  the  hump- 
ribs;  and  an  intestinal  vessel  or  organ,  commonly  called  by 
hunters  the  "marrow-gut,"  which,  anatomically  speaking,  is 
the  chylo-poetic  duct.  This  vessel  contains  an  unctuous  matter 
resembling  marrow,  and  hence  its  vulgar  name.  No  delicacy 
which  I  have  ever  tasted  of  the  flesh  kind  can  surpass  this 
when  properly  prepared.  All  parts  of  the  buffalo  are  corre- 
spondingly palatable  with  those  of  tame  cattle;  but  when  they 
are  abundant,  the  principal  part  of  the  carcass  is  left  by  tht 
hunter  to  feast  the  beasts  and  birds  of  prey. 

This  evening,  after  we  encamped,  Colonel  Russell,  who  has 
been  suff"ering  for  several  days  from  an  attack  of  bilious  fever, 
tendered  his  resignation  of  the  office  of  captain  of  our  party. 
His  resignation  having  been  accepted  by  a  vote  of  the  company 
uss*^n>blpd.  Ex-governor  Boggs  was  called  to  the  chair.  A  mo- 
tion was  then  made  by  E.  Bryant,  and  unanimously  adopted, 
that  the  thanks  of  the  company  be  expressed  to  Colonel  Russell 
for  the  manner  in  which  he  has  discharged  his  duties  since  his 
election  to  the  office  of  captain.  The  other  subordinat  .^,  officers 
then  resigned  their  places.  These  were  Messrs.  Kirkendall, 
Oonner,  Jacob,  and  West.  A  similar  vote  of  tlianks  was  adopt- 
ed in  regard  to  them.  Mr.  F.  West  was  afterwards  f.ppointeci 
captain  pro  lem.,  and  the  meeting  adjoiuned.  Distance  12 
miles. 

June  19. — A  paity  of  eight  or  ten  persons,  including  mv8<?if. 
Und  determined,  on  our  arrival  at   Fort  Tiaramie.  to  change  00 


ASH  HOLLOW.  97 

mode  of  travel,  provided  we  could  make  suitable  arrancrenients. 
Tf  mules  could  be  obtained  for  packing,  our  design  was  tc 
abandon  our  oxen  and  wagons,  and  all  baggage  not  absolutely 
necessary  to  the  journey.  This  would  enable  us  to  proceed 
with  much  greater  expedition  towards  the  point  of  our  destina- 
tion. 

The  distance  from  the  south  to  the  north  fork  of  the  Platte, 
by  the  emigrant  trail,  is  about  twenty-two  miles,  without  water. 
The  country  between  the  two  streams  is  elevated  and  rolling. 
The  soil  is  poor,  and  the  grass  and  other  vegetation  thin  and 
siiort.  Tlie  bloom  of  the  lupin  in  many  places  gives  a  blue 
coloring  to  the  undulations  of  the  prairie.  No  trees  or  shrubs 
are  visible. 

While  halting  at  noon,  midway  of  our  day's  march,  we  were 
overtaken  by  Messrs.  Lippincott  and  Burgess,  two  gentlemen 
who  left  us  at  the  Kansas,  and  had  joined  some  of  the  advance 
companies.  They  had  been  out  six  days  in  search  of  some 
mules  composing  their  team,  which  they  supposed  had  at  first 
strayed  from  their  encampment,  and  then  been  driven  off  by  tlu' 
Indians.  In  then*  excm-sion,  they  had  been  as  high  up  as  the 
head- waters  of  the  Little  Blue,  where,  as  they  stated,  they  found 
the  soil  of  the  country  sandy  and  sterile,  and  vegetation  parched 
by  the  drought.     Their  search  had  been  unsuccessful. 

We  descended  into  the  valley  of  the  north  fork  of  the  Platte, 
through  a  pass,  known  as  "  Ash  Hollow."  This  name  is  derived 
from  a  few  scattering  ash-trees  in  the  dry  ravine,  through  which 
we  wind  our  way  to  the  river  bottom.  There  is  but  one 
steep  or  difficult  place  for  wagons  in  the  pass.  I  saw  wild 
currants  and  gooseberries  near  the  mouth  of  Ash  Hollow. 
There  is  here,  also,  a  spring  of  pure  cold  water.  We  met  at 
this  spring  the  four  members  of  the  Oregon  party  which  had 
been  left  at  Fort  Laramie.  The  man  with  the  disabled  arm,  by 
restiDg  two  or  three  days,  had  recovered  sufficiently  to  be  able 
to  travel.  He  informed  me  that  he  was  returning  to  Ohio  for 
the  purpose  of  disposing  of  his  property  there,  which  he  should 
invest  in  sheep  and  cattle,  and  drive  them  to  Oregon  nerl 
jeu, 

9 


98  PARCHED    VEGETATION. 

We  found  near  the  mouth  of  "  Ash  Hollow,"  a  small  log 
cabin,  which  had  been  erected  last  winter  by  some  trappers, 
retiiming  to  the  "  settlements,"  who,  on  account  of  the  snows, 
had  been  compelled  to  remain  here  until  spring.  This  nide. 
structure  has,  by  the  emigrants,  been  turned  into  a  sort  of 
general  post-office.  Numerous  advertisements  in  manuscript  are 
posted  on  its  walls  outside  ;  descriptive  of  lost  cattle,  horses, 
etc.  etc. ;  and  inside,  in  a  recess,  there  was  a  large  number  of 
letters  deposited,  addressed  to  persons  in  almost  every  quarter 
of  the  globe,  with  requests,  that  those  who  passed  would  con- 
vey them  to  the  nearest  post-office  in  the  states.  The  place 
had  something  of  the  ah  of  a  cross-roads  settlement ;  and  we 
Ungered  around  it  some  time,  reading  the  advertisements  and 
overlooking  the  letters.     Distance  22  miles. 

June  20. — Ha^'ing  made  my  arrangements  for  the  purpose, 
last  night,  w^ith  a  view  of  carrying  into  effect  the  design  of 
changing  oxor  method  of  travel  I  left  the  encampment  early 
this  morning,  accompanied  by  Messrs.  Kirkendall,  Putnam, 
Holder,  and  Curry,  for  Fort  Laramie,  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  distant.  In  the  course  of  the  day  we  were  joined  by 
Messrs.  Lippincott,  Burgess,  Brown,  and  Ewing. 

For  several  miles,  after  lea-sing  our  encampment  near  the 
mouth  of  "  Ash  Hollow,"  the  wagon-trail  passes  over  a  sandy 
soil,  into  which  the  wheels  sink  eight  or  ten  inches.  The  sur- 
face of  the  ground,  however,  becomes  gradually  more  compact ; 
and  the  bottom  of  the  river  occasionally  exhibits  patches  of 
green  grass.  The  bluffs  which  wall  in  the  river  valley,  are  be- 
coming rugged  and  sterile,  exhibiting  barren  sands  and  perpen- 
dicular ledges  of  rock.  The  general  aspect  of  the  scenery  is 
that  of  aiidity  and  desolation.  The  face  of  the  country  presents 
here  those  featuics  and  characteristics  which  proclaim  it  to  be 
uninhabitable  by  ci\  ilized  man.  The  hght  sands,  driven  by  the 
bleak  winds,  drift  across  the  parched  plain,  filling  the  atmo- 
sphere, and  coloring  the  vegetation  with  a  gray  coating  of  dust. 
The  Platte  preserves  the  same  general  features  as  below  the 
forks.  Its  width  is  not  so  great ;  but  still  it  is  a  wide  stream 
with   sliallow  and  turbid  water,  the  flavor  of  which  is,  to  me. 


PROMINENT    LANDMARKS.  99 

excessively  disagreeable.     But  we  are  forced  to  make  use  of 

it  to  quench  our  thirst. 

I  noticed  several  times  to-day,  on  the  bluifs,  a  few  stunted 
cedars,  the  deep-green  foliage  of  which  was  some  relief  to  the 
dreary  monotony  of  the  scenery.  We  found  a  grave  which  had 
been  opened  by  the  wolves  or  the  Indians,  and  the  corpse 
exhumed.  Some  of  the  bones  were  strewn  around  the  excava- 
tion from  whence  they  had  been  taken. 

About  four  o'clock,  p.  m.,  we  overtook  a  train  of  twenty-one 
emigrant  wagons,  under  the  command  of  Captain  Dickinson. 
This  company  is  the  same  that  separated  from  us  soon  after 
crossing  the  Kansas  river.  We  accepted  Captain  D.'s  invitation 
to  encamp  with  him  for  the  night ;  and  travelling  along  with 
him,  we  passed  another  small  emigrant  party  which  had  halted 
for  the  day.  Our  camp  is  near  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  th<^ 
grass  immediately  surrounding  it  is  green.  Another  emigrant 
party  is  in  sight,  about  three  miles  in  advance  of  us.  A  thunder- 
storm rose  from  the  southwest  about  five  o'clock,  and  there 
was  a  copious  and  refreshing  fall  of  rain.  A  beautiful  bow,  of 
the  most  brilliant  colors,  displayed  a  perfect  arch  in  the  east 
immediately  after  the  shower  had  passed  over.  Our  party  were 
distributed  among  the  tents  of  the  emigrants  for  the  night.  I 
was  most  hospitably  entertained  at  the  tent  of  Mr.  Gordon,  an 
intelligent  and  highly  respectable  gentleman,  with  an  interesting 
family  of  sons  and  daughters.     Distance  30  miles. 

Simday,  June  21. — The  shower  of  last  evening  has  washed 
the  grass  and  laid  the  dust.  The  landscape  wears  a  greener 
and  more  attractive  drapery. 

The  atmosphere  this  morning  being  clear,  we  saw  distinctly 
the  "  Chimney  Rock,"  at  a  probable  distance  of  thirty-five  or 
forty  miles.  Some  ten  or  twelve  miles  this  side  of  it  we  also 
saw  an  elevated  rock,  presenting  an  imposing  and  symmetrical 
architectural  shape.  At  this  distance  its  appearance  was  not  un- 
Hke  that  of  the  capitol  at  Washington  ;  representing,  mth  great 
distinctness  of  outUne,  a  main  building,  and  wings  surmounted 
by  domes.  This,  I  believe,  has  been  named  by  emigrants  the 
"  Court-house." 


100  COURT-HOUSE  ROCK — QUICKSANDS. 

As  we  approached  this  large  rock,  it  assumed  still  more  def- 
initely the  regular  proportions  of  an  artificial  structure.  At 
times  its  white  walls  and  domes  would  appear  in  a  state  of 
perfect  preservation ;  in  other  views  they  appeared  partially 
ruinous,  like  some  vast  edifice  neglected  or  deserted,  and  moul- 
deiing  and  faUing  under  the  influence  of  time.  Desirous  of 
examming  this  object  more  closely  than  could  be  done  by  an 
observation  from  the  trail,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Lippincott,  I 
left  our  party,  turning  oui-  horses  in  a  direction  towards  it. 
After  riding  about  four  miles  we  ascended  the  bluffs,  the  view 
from  which,  over  the  plain  to  the  south,  was  one  of  sterile  des- 
olation. The  wind  was  blowing  fresh,  and  the  white  sand  and 
dust  were  driving  through  the  air  and  drifting  in  heaps,  like 
freshly-fallen  snow  in  a  furious  storm.  A  foetid  odor,  highly 
offensive,  probably  arising  from  some  stagnant  lake  at  a  dis- 
tance, impregnated  the  atmosphere.  While  riding  at  full  speed 
we  came  suddenly  upon  a  stream  of  clear  running  water.  It 
apjeared  so  inviting  to  the  eye,  that  we  dismounted  for  the 
purpose  of  drinking  from  its  hmpid  current ;  but  a  single  swal- 
low was  sufficient  to  produce  nausea.  In  attempting  to  cross 
the  stream,  which  is  about  two  rods  in  width,  Lippincott's  horse 
sank  into  the  quicksands  so  that  his  body  became  entirely  cov- 
ered. After  some  difficulty  he  was  extricated,  and  farther 
down  the  stream  we  found  a  safe  ford  with  a  compact  bottom 
of  bluish  clay.  I  noticed  along  the  bank  of  this  stream  several 
round  rolls  of  clay  and  sand,  combined  in  layers  from  one  and 
a  half  to  two  feet  in  diameter,  and  about  the  same  in  length. 
These  singular  formations  appear  to  have  been  produced  by 
the  action  of  the  wind,  forcing  a  small  lump  of  soft  clay 
forward  until  by  accumulation  its  si^e  is  increased  to  the  above 
dimensions. 

We  continued  our  course  towards  the  rock  about  three  miles 
farther,  when  its  distance  from  us  appeared  to  be  still  so  great, 
that  we  concluded  we  could  not  visit  it  and  overtake  our  fellow- 
travellers  before  night.  The  rock  appeared,  from  the  nearest 
•  point  whore  we  saw  it,  to  be  from  300  to  500  feet  in  height, 
aad  about  a  mile  in  circumference.     Its  walls  so  nearly  resemble 


A  HAN  IN  A  FRIGHT.  iOl 

masonry,  and  its  shape  an  architectural  design,  that  if  seen  in 
an  inhabited  coimtiy,  it  would  be  supposed  some  coUossal  edi- 
fice, deserted  and  partially  in  ruinB. 

Turning  our  comse  towards  the  river  we  kept  along  over  the 
bluffs  for  several  miles,  from  which  we  had  an  extensive  view 
of  the  arid  plain  to  the  south,  with  clouds  of  dust  and  sand 
flying  over  it.  The  "  Chunney  Rock"  has  been  in  sight  the 
whole  day.  About  five  miles  before  we  reached  it  a  very 
amusing  incident  occuiTed.  A  man  on  horseback  appeared 
in  front  coming  towards  us.  He  was  about  two  miles  distant 
when  we  first  saw  him.  He  appeared  to  be  riding  leisurely 
along  the  trail,  and  did  not  discover  iis  imtU  he  had  approached 
withm  the  distance  of  half  or  three-quarters  of  a  mile.  He  then 
suddenly  halted,  turned  his  horse  partly  round,  and  seemed  in 
doubt  whether  to  advance  or  retreat.  In  the  mean  time  we 
continued  to  approach  htm ;  and  several  of  the  party  starting 
their  horses  suddenly  forward  on  a  gallop,  gave  a  loud  Indian 
whoop.  This  appeared  to  operate  with  electrical  force.  Jle 
fled  with  all  the  speed  that  his  horse  was  capable  of.  Whip 
and  spur  were  apphed  with  an  energy  indicating  that  the  rider 
supposed  his  life  dependent  upon  their  influence  over  the  animal 
he  rode.  He  would  occasionally  look  back,  and  then  renew 
with  increased  zeal  the  lashes  upon  his  poor  beast.  Away  and 
away  he  went,  almost  with  the  fleetness  of  the  wind,  and  was 
soon  lost  to  our  sight  in  a  distant  depression  of  the  plain.  He 
evidently  supposed  us  to  be  a  party  of  Indians,  whom  he  did 
not  wish  to  encounter,  and  seized  with  a  panic,  fled  with  the 
precipitation  I  have  described.  I  did  not  see  him  afterwards 
He  was  an  emigrant  probably  in  search  of  lost  cattle. 

"We  encamped  about  five  o'clock,  p.  m.,  on  the  bank  of  the 
Platte,  about  three  miles  from  the  "  Chimney  Rock."  This  re- 
markable landmark  derives  its  name  from  some  resemblance 
which  it  bears  to  a  chimney.  Its  height  from  the  base  to  the 
apex  is  several  hundred  feet,  and  in  a  clear  atmosphere  it  can 
be  seen  at  a  distance  of  forty  miles.  It  is  composed  of  soft 
rod:,  and  is  what  remains  of  one  of  the  bluffs  of  the  Platte,  the  * 
fierce  storms  of  wind  and  rain  which  rage  m  tliis  region,  having 

0* 


102  CHIMNEY  ROCK — REMARKABLE  SCENERY. 

worn  it  into  this  shape.  The  column  whicli  represents  the 
chimney,  will  soon  crumble  away  and  disappear  entirely. 

The  scenery  to  the  right  of  the  rock  as  we  face  it  from  the 
river,  is  singularly  picturesque  and  Dteresting.  There  are  four 
high  elevations  of  architectural  configuration,  one  of  which  would 
represent  a  distant  \'iew  of  the  ruins  of  the  Athenian  Acropolis  ; 
another  the  crumbling  remains  of  an  E^'ptian  temple  ;  a  third, 
a  Mexican  pyramid  ;  the  fourth,  the  mausoleum  of  one  of  the 
Titans.  In  the  background  the  bluffs  are  worn  into  such  figure? 
as  to  represent  ranges  of  castles  and  palaces.  A  black  cloud 
which  has  risen  in  the  west  since  three  o'clock,  hangs  suspended 
like  a  sable  curtain  over  this  picture  of  nature  in  ruin  and  des- 
olation. A  narrow  bright  line  of  lurid  light  extends  along 
the  western  horizon  beneath  the  dark  mass  of  vapor  where  the 
sun  is  setting,  casting  huge  and  lengthened  shadows  over  the 
plain,  from  pyramids,  spires,  and  domes,  in  the  far  distance. 

The  illusion  is  so  perfect  that  no  efibrt  of  the  imagination  is 
required  to  suppose  ourselves  encamped  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
ruins  of  some  vast  city  erected  by  a  race  of  giants,  contempora- 
ries of  the  Megatherii  and  the  Ichthyosaurii. 

An  emigrant  party  is  encamped  about  two  mUes  below  us  on 
the  bank  of  the  river.  Two  of  them,  after  ha^ang  visited  the 
"  Chimney  Rock,"  rode  over  to  our  camp.  We  invited  them  to 
partake  of  our  humble  fare,  and  if  they  thought  proper,  a  bed 
in  our  spacious  chamber.  The  first  consisted  of  bacon  broiled 
on  a  stick  over  a  fire  of  buffalo  chips  ;  and  the  last  was  the 
illimitable  canopy  of  the  heavens.  What  was  wanting  in  variety 
and  simiptuousness  of  fare,  was  fully  made  up  in  the  dimensions 
of  our  sleeping  apartment.  They  declined  our  invitation,  but 
were  resolutely  bent  on  making  a  horse-trade  before  they  btvdc 
us  good-evening.  This  duty  was  performed  to  their  satisfaction 
by  my  friend  Lippincott.  Horses  were  traded  and  exchanged, 
but  which  party  liad  the  advantage,  it  would  reqidre  one  more 
leanicd  than  mysc^lf  in  horseflesh  to  decide.  Were  I  to  give 
an  opiaion,  I  should  go  so  far  as  to  intimate  that  both  parties 
•were  sufferers  by  the  contract. 

Our  party  being  small,  every  individual  composmg  it  was 


SUBLIME  SCENERY.  103 

compelled  to  stand  a  watch  during  the  night,  for  the  protection 
of  our  animals  and  ourselves.  My  watch  come  on  in  the  early 
part  of  the  night.  The  dark  masses  of  clouds  which  had  been 
rising  from  the  west  for  many  hours,  continued  to  become  more 
and  more  threatening.  I  never  witnessed  more  brilhant  displays 
of  electricity,  or  heard  more  deafening  crashes  of  thunder. 
While  standing  in  our  camp  with  a  pistol  in  my  nand,  sparks 
of  electricity  rolled  along  the  barrel  and  dropped  to  the  ground. 
I  was  several  times  sensibly  but  not  violently  affected  by  elec- 
trical shocks.     Distance  35  miles. 

June  22. — The  rain  poured  down  in  torrents  about  one 
o'clock  this  morning,  and  the  storm  continued  to  rage  vdth 
much  violence  for  several  hours.  A  great  change  had  taken 
place  in  the  temperature  during  the  night,  and  when  I  rose 
from  my  bivouac,  my  clothes  were  dripping  wet,  and  I  was 
shivering  with  cold.  The  buffalo  chips  being  too  wet  to  ignite, 
we  were  forced  to  leave  our  encampment  without  our  coffee,  a 
great  deprivation  under  present  cncumstances. 

If  I  could  I  would  endeavor  to  describe  to  the  reader  by  the 
use  of  language,  a  picture  presented  this  morning,  at  simrise, 
just  as  we  were  lea\ing  our  encampment,  among  these  colossal 
niins  of  nature.  But  the  essay  would  be  in  vain.  No  lan- 
guage, except  that  which  is  addressed  directly  to  tlie  eye,  by 
the  pencil  and  brush  of  the  artist,  can  portray  even  a  faint  out- 
line of  its  almost  terrific  sublimity.  A  line  of  pale  and  wintiy 
ight  behind  the  stupendous  ruins,  (as  they  appeared  to  the 
I -ye,)  served  to  define  their  innumerable  shapes,  their  colossal 
L^^randeur,  and  their  gloomy  and  mouldering  magnificence. 
Over  us  and  resting  upon  the  summits  of  these,  were  the  black 
masses  of  vapor,  whose  impending  weight  appeared  ready  to 
fall  and  crush  every  thing  beneath  them.  The  cold  winds  blew 
with  the  force  of  a  tornado,  and  the  dark  drapery  which  ob- 
scured the  heavens  was  wrapping  its  sable  folds,  as  if  to 
shelter  and  protect  the  skies  from  the  fury  of  the  storm.  The 
sublime  conceptions  of  Martui,  representing  infernal  scenery, 
were  vividly  brought  to  mind  by  these  phenomena ;  and  nothing 
which  previously  I  have  witnessed  in  nature,  has  so  nearly  re- 


104  scott's  bluff — legend. 

sembled  those  extraordinary  imaginative  sketches  of  this 
artist. 

About  twenty  miles  distant  from  our  encampment  of  last 
night  is  "  Scott's  Bluff,"  a  very  elevated  and  remarkable  forma- 
tion. It  derives  its  name,  as  I  have  been  informed  by  one  who 
was  m  part  cognizant  of  the  facts,  from  these  circumstances : — ^A 
party  of  some  five  or  six  trappers,  in  the  employment  of  the 
American  Fur  Company,  were  returning  to  the  "  settlements," 
under  the  command  of  a  man — a  noted  mountaineer — named 
Scott.  They  attempted  to  perform  the  journey  in  boats,  down 
the  Platte.  The  current  of  the  river  became  so  shallow  that 
they  could  not  navigate  it.  Scott  was  seized  with  a  disease, 
which  rendered  him  helpless.  The  men  with  him  left  him  in 
the  boat,  and  when  they  returned  to  their  employers,  reported 
that  Scott  had  died  on  the  journey,  and  that  they  had  buried 
him  on  the  banks  of  the  Platte.  The  next  year  a  party  of 
hunters,  in  traversinsf  this  recfion,  discovered  a  human  skeleton 
wrapped  in  blankets,  which  from  the  clothing  and  papers  found 
upon  it,  was  immediately  recognised  as  being  the  remains  of 
Scott.  He  had  been  deserted  by  his  men,  but  afterwards  re- 
covering his  strength  sufficiently  to  leave  the  boat,  he  had 
wandered  into  the  bluffs  where  he  died,  where  his  bones  were 
found,  and  which  now  bear  his  name. 

The  bluff  is  a  large  and  isolated  pile  of  sand-cUffs  and  soft 
sandstone.  It  exhibits  all  the  architectural  shapes  of  arch, 
pillar,  dome,  spire,  minaret,  temple,  gothic  castle,  and  modem 
fortification.  These,  of  course,  are  upon  a  scale  far  surpassing 
the  constructive  efforts  of  human  strength  and  energy.  The 
tower  of  Babel,  if  its  bnilders  had  been  permitted  to  proceed  in 
their  ambitious  imdertaking,  would  have  been  but  a  feeble  imi- 
tation of  these  stupendous  structures  of  nature.  While  survey- 
bg  this  scenery,  wliich  is  continuous  for  twenty  or  thirty  miles, 
the  traveller  involuntarily  imagines  himself  in  the  midst  of  the 
desolate  and  deserted  ruins  of  vast  cities,  to  which  Nineveh, 
Thebes,  and  Babylon  were  pigmies  in  grandeur  and  magnifi- 
cence. 

The  trail  leaves  the  river  as  we  approach  "  Scott's  Blnff." 


BARREN  COUNTRY — STORM  106 

and  runs  over  a  smooth  valley  in  the  rear  of  the  bluff  seven  or 

eight  miles.  From  this  level  plain  we  ascended  some  distance, 
and  foimd  a  faint  spring  of  water  near  the  summit  of  the  ridge, 
as  cold  as  melted  ice.  I  need  not  say  that  we  refreshed  our- 
selves from  this  beneficent  gift  of  natiu-e  to  the  weary  and 
thirsty  traveller.  We  reached  the  extreme  height  of  the 
dividinff  ridge  about  three  o'clock,  p.  m.,  and  from  it  we  had  the 
first  view  of  the  peaks  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Laramie's 
Peak,  and  several  other  elevations  about  one  hundred  or  one 
himdred  and  fifty  miles  distant,  were  very  distinctly  visible, 
and  I  think  I  saw  the  summits  of  the  Wind  River  Mountains, 
about  four  himdred  miles  distant.  The  atmosphere  was  very 
clear,  and  the  summits  of  the  last-named  mountains  appeared 
like  small  white  clouds,  restmg  upon  the  horizon.  I  may  be 
mistaken  in  my  supposition. 

Descending  from  the  ridge,  we  passed  over  a  barren  country, 
broken  by  deep  chasms  and  ravines  hollowed  out  by  the  winds 
and  the  torrents  of  water  pouring  from  the  hills  in  wet  seasons, 
for  twelve  miles,  when  we  reached  Horse  Creek,  where  we  ex- 
pected to  encamp.  But  the  grass  being  very  indifferent,  al- 
though it  was  near  sunset  we  determined  to  find,  if  possible,  a 
better  encampment  on  the  river  some  five  or  six  miles  distant. 
We  accordingly  laid  our  course  for  the  nearest  point  on  the 
Platte,  passing  over  a  plain,  the  prevailing  growth  being  the 
cactus,  the  thorns  of  which  were  very  troublesome  to  the  feet 
of  our  animals.  We  reached  the  bank  of  the  river  just  before 
dark,  and  encamped,  although  the  grass  around  us  was  ver}' 
indifferent.  Dark  clouds  had  been  rising  for  some  hours  from 
the  south  and  the  southwest,  and  we  had  scarcely  completed 
the  labor  of  imsaddling  our  animals  when  a  strife  of  the  ele- 
ments commenced.  Lightning,  thunder,  and  wind  seemed  to 
vie  with  each  other  for  predominance.  We  succeeded,  after 
much  difficulty,  in  striking  a  tire  in  the  hurly-burly  of  the 
storm,  and  preparing  as  hastily  as  possible  a  cup  of  coffee  and 
a  slice  of  broiled  bacon,  we  made  our  beds  upon  the  ground, 
and  accommodated  our  philosophy  to  a  thorough  saturation  by 
water  before  morning,  which  expectation  was  not  disappointed 


106  FORT  BERNARD. 

The  rain  fell  in  torrents  about  ten  o'clock,  and  in  a  short  time 
my  blankets  and  all  my  clothing  vi  ae  as  wet  as  if  they  had 
been  submerged  in  the  river.     Distance  45  miles. 

June  23. — My  physical  sensations  when  I  rose  this  morning 
were  not  agreeable.  Every  article  of  bedding  and  clothing 
which  I  possessed  was  perfectly  saturated  with  water.  A  thick 
driving  mist  concealed  from  our  view  all  distant  objects,  and 
seemed  almost  to  penetrate  the  pores  of  the  skin.  It  was  a 
long  time  before  we  succeeded  in  striking  a  fire  for  the  prepa- 
ration of  breakfast,  of  which  we  all  stood  much  in  need,  having 
fared  indifferently  for  the  last  thirty-six  hours.  A  faint  blaze, 
sufficient  to  boil  water  for  coffee  and  to  broil  a  slice  of  bacon 
for.  each,  was  at  last  raised,  and  as  soon  as  our  hasty  morning 
meal  was  over,  we  resumed  our  march. 

We  found  two  emigrant  encampments  in  a  few  miles,  from 
one  of  which  I  purchased  a  tin  cup,  (a  great  prize,)  having  been 
so  unfortunate  as  to  lose  my  own  on  the  march  since  leaA-ing 
the  wagon.  The  channel  of  the  Platte  has  become  much  com- 
pressed ;  during  our  march  to-day  its  average  breadth  has  not 
been  more  than  three  hxmdred  yards.  The  soil  of  the  bottom 
is  sandy  and  barren ;  there  is  but  a  scant  vegetation  upon  it, 
owing  to  drought  or  other  causes.  I  noticed,  in  several  places, 
clusters  of  small  islands  ornamented  with  willows  and  occasion- 
ally a  ■cotton-wood  tree.  Looking  down  upon  these  islands  from 
the  bluffs,  they  presented  a  cultivated  appearance ;  the  green 
foliage  of  the  willows,  in  contrast  with  the  white  sand,  repre- 
sented circular  and  serpentine  walks  of  shrubbery  in  the  dis- 
t;ince,  and  the  barren  soil,  cultivated  ground.  These  appear- 
ances were  numerous  and  very  pleasing  just  below  a  small 
trading-post,  called  "  Fort  Bernard,"  about  eight  miles  from 
Fort  Laramie. 

We  reached  "  Fort  Bernard,"  a  small  building  rudely  con- 
structed of  logs,  about  two  o'clock,  i\  m.  Wliile  approaching 
it,  I  saw  a  large  herd  of  mules  grazing  on  the  plain  and  guarded 
by  Mexican  Indians.  One  of  tliese  liad  a  small  looking-glass, 
with  which  he  conveyed  the  reflected  rays  of  the  sun  into  our 
faces,  by  way  of  a  distant  salutation.     The  mules  (animals  of 


rORT  LARAMIE SIOUX  WOMBN.  107 

which  we  were  in  quest)  were  objects  more  agreeable  and  in- 
teresting to  us  than  their  keepers.  I  had  a  letter  of  introduc- 
tion to  Mr.  Richard,  the  principal  of  this  trading-post,  from  his 
brother,  one  of  the  party  which  we  met  on  the  Platte.  Mr.  R. 
received  us  with  mountain  cordiality,  inviting  us  to  remain  with 
him  over  night.  We  dechned  the  invitation,  having  determined 
to  proceed  as  far  as  Fort  Laramie.  An  inhabited  house,  al- 
though of  the  rudest  construction  and  with  accommodations  far 
inferior  to  an  ordinary  stable,  was  nevertheless  a  cheering  sight. 
Several  traders  from  Taos  and  the  head -waters  of  the  Ar- 
kansas in  New  Mexico  were  collected  here,  to  whom  the  herd 
of  mules  we  saw  belonged.  They  had  packed  flour,  some  four 
hundred  miles,  for  the  purpose  of  trading  with  the  Sioux  In- 
dians. 

We  arrived  at  Fort  Laramie  in  the  midst  of  a  violent  storm 
of  rain,  thunder,  and  lightning,  just  before  sunset.  About  three 
thousand  Sioux  Indians  were  encamped  in  the  plain  surround- 
ing the  fort.  The  lodges,  as  I  understood,  numbered  about  six 
hundred ;  and  the  whole  plain,  at  a  distance,  appeared  like  a 
vast  cultivated  field,  from  which  the  crop  had  been  gathered 
and  secured  in  stacks.  An  immense  number  of  horses,  belong- 
ing to  the  Indians,  were  grazing  on  the  plain.  The  Sioux  had 
collected  here  to  this  number  for  the  piu'pose  of  organizing  a 
war-party  to  attack  the  Snakes  and  Crows.  They  held  a  grand 
war-dance  in  the  fort  to-day,  which  had  just  concluded  when 
we  arrived.  Many  of  them,  I  could  perceive,  were  intoxicated 
with  the  excitement  of  the  dance,  or  from  the  effects  of  whiskey. 
The  females  especially  appeared  to  be  under  the  influence  of 
this  excitement.  Notwithstanding  the  rain,  a  large  number  of 
them  were  outside  the  walls  of  the  fort,  dancing,  singing,  and 
throwing  themselves  into  a  variety  of  grotesque  and  not  very 
decent  attitudes,  according  to  our  notions  of  feminine  delicacy 
and  decorum.  Many  of  these  women,  for  regularity  of  features 
and  symmetry  of  figure,  would  bear  off  the  palm  of  beauty 
from  some  of  our  most  celebrated  belles. 

A  portion  of  the  Sioux  women  are  decidedly  beautiful.  Their 
eomplexion  is  a  light  copper  color,  and,  when  they  are  no* 


i06  f  OVX  HBN. 

rouged  artificially,  the  natural  glow  of  the  blood  b  displayed 
upon  their  cheeks  in  a  delicate  flush,  rendering  their  expression 
of  coimtenance  highly  fascinating.  The  dress  of  the  higher 
orders  (for  there  is  an  aristocracy  among  them)  is  graceful 
and  sometimes  rich.  It  consists  usually  of  a  robe  or  shirt  of 
buckskin,  with  pantaloons  and  moccasins  of  the  same,  tastefully 
embroidered  with  porcelain  beads  of  various  colors.  The  ma- 
terial of  then-  dress  is  so  prepared,  that  frequently  it  is  as  white 
as  the  paper  upon  which  I  write,  and  as  flexible  as  the  muslin 
which  envelops  in  its  misty  folds  the  forms  that  float  in  our 
ballrooms.  Their  feet  are  small  and  exquisitely  formed.  The 
student  of  sculpture,  when  he  has  acquiied  his  trade  at  Rome  or 
Florence,  should  erect  his  studio  among  the  Sioux  for  his  models. 
The  Sioux  are  one  of  the  most  powerful  tribes  of  Indians  on 
the  continent  of  America.  Theu-  warriors  number,  as  I  imder- 
stand,  about  eight  or  ten  thousand,  and  they  claim  a  district  of 
country  of  great  extent.  These  claims  and  pretensions  are  dis- 
puted by  other  tribes  suirounding  them,  and  the  consequence 
is,  that  they  are  engaged  in  perpetual  wars  with  their  neigh- 
bors. The  men  are  powerfully  made,  and  possess  a  masculine 
beauty  which  I  have  never  seen  excelled.  Conscious  of  their 
superior  strength,  of  course,  like  all  savage  nations  imder  the 
same  circumstances,  they  are  arrogant  and  exacting  towards 
their  more  feeble  neighbors ;  and  have  thus,  probably,  acquired 
a  reputation  for  cruelty  and  dupUcity.  But,  having  passed 
twice  through  them  without  injury  or  insult  of  any  kind,  I  have 
little  reason  to  suppose  that  this  reputation  would  be  sustained 
by  any  facts,  after  a  full  and  fair  investigation.  The  men,  as 
well  as  the  women,  are  generally  well  clothed  in  skins  and 
blankets,  and  they  have  every  appearance  of  being  well  fed. 
The  numerous  herds  of  buffalo  which  roam  over  the  plains  and 
mountains  witliin  the  Sioux  territory,  aff"ord  a  bountiful  supply 
of  meat ;  and  by  an  excliange  of  their  t^kins  with  the  traders 
they  obtain  blankets,  and  sometimes  flour,  sugar,  and  cofl"ee,  and 
otlier  luxuries.  They  have  among  them  a  few  muskets  and 
rifles,  but  tlielr  principal  weapons  are  the  bow  and  arrow,  toma- 
hawk, and  hunter's  knife. 


rORT  LARAMIB.  109 

Fort  Laramie,  or  "  Fort  Jolrn,"  as  it  is  otherwise  called,  has 
been  the  principal  trading-post  of  the  American  Fur  Company. 
Its  distance  from  Independence,  by  the  route  we  travelled,  is 
six  hundred  and  seventy-two  miles.  Its  latitude  is  about  42° 
40'"'  north.  It  is  situated  on  Laramie  river,  near  its  junction  with 
the  Platte,  and  is  surrounded  by  an  extensive  plain.  Timber  in 
the  vicinity  is  very  scarce.  Not  a  foot  of  grovmd  aroimd  the 
fort  is  under  cultivation.  Experiments  have  been  made  with 
corn,  wheat,  and  potatoes,  but  they  either  resulted  in  entire  fail- 
ures, or  were  not  so  successful  as  to  authorize  a  renewal.  The 
Indians,  who  claim  the  soil  as  their  property,  and  regard  the 
Fur  Company  as  occupants  by  sufferance,  are  adverse  to  all 
agricultural  experiments ;  and  on  one  or  two  occasions  they  en- 
tered the  small  enclosures,  and  destroyed  the  yoimg  com  and 
otlier  vegetables  as  soon  as  they  made  their  appearance  above 
the  ground.  The  Fur  Company  raise  cattle  and  poultry,  make 
butter,  and  have  an  abimdance  of  milk  for  their  own  consump- 
tion. They  also  have  herds  of  horses  and  mules,  which  they 
either  breed  themselves  or  purchase  from  the  Indians.  The 
Indian  horses  are  the  most  hardy  animals  of  the  kind  I  have 
ever  seen.  Many  of  the  breeds  higher  up  in  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains have  powers  of  endurance  nearly  equal  to  the  Mexican 
mule ;  an  animal  which  I  regard  as  superior  to  any  other  on  the 
continent  of  America  for  long,  toilsome,  and  difficult  journeys. 

"  The  Fort,"  as  it  is  called,  is  a  quadrangle,  the  walls  of 
which  are  constructed  of  adobes,  or  sun-dried  bricks.  The  area 
enclosed  is,  I  shoidd  suppose,  about  half  or  three-fourths  of  an 
acre  of  ground.  Its  walls  are  surmounted  by  watch-towers, 
and  the  gate  is  defended  by  two  brass  swivels.  On  three  sides 
of  the  com't,  next  to  the  walls,  are  various  offices,  store-rooms, 
and  mechanical  shops.  The  other  side  is  occupied  by  the  main 
buildincr  of  the  Fort,  two  stories  in  height.  The  Indians  have 
permission  to  enter  the  Fort  during  the  day ;  at  night,  they  en- 
camp in  their  lodges  on  the  plain. 

Theh  lodges  are  constructed  of  poles,  erected  in  a  conical 
shape,  for  a  framework,  over  which  is  thrown  and  fastened  a 
roof  or  covering  of  buffalo  skins,  so  prepared  as  to  resist  th« 

1(? 


110  INDIAN  LODGES. 

rain.  The  diameter  of  the  lodges  at  the  base  is  usually  about 
ten  feet ;  some  of  them  are  larger.  In  cold  or  stormy  weather, 
the  fire  is  lighted  in  the  centre  of  the  lodge.  In  warm  and  fair 
weather,  the  fire  for  cooking  is  lighted  near  the  entrance,  on  the 
outside.  The  floor  of  the  lodge  is  covered  with  buffalo  skins, 
forming  an  excellent  carpet.  When  the  Indians  decamp  for  the 
piu-pose  of  removing  to  another  place,  the  poles  are  fastened  to 
then  pack-horses  on  each  side,  one  end  dragging  behind  on  the 
groimd.  Short  crosspieces  are  strapped  on  these,  in  the  rear 
of  the  horse,  forming  a  framework,  upon  which  the  baggage, 
and  sometimes  the  children,  are  placed  during  the  march.  The 
small  children  are  confined  in  cages,  composed  of  willows,  in 
the  form  of  a  common  crockery  crate,  except  that  the  door  for 
mgress  and  egress  is  at  the  side.  In  this  manner,  these  Indians 
travel  fifty  or  sixty  miles  a  day,  according  to  circumstances ;  the 
women  always  taking  charge  of  the  luggage,  pack-animals,  and 
children. 

The  numerous  herds  of  horses  belonmncr  to  the  Indians  hav- 
mg  grazed  off"  all  the  grass  from  the  plain  surrounding  the  fort, 
and  it  being  unsafe  to  trust  our  animals  with  theirs,  we  deter- 
mined to  proceed  and  encamp  for  the  night  about  five  or  six 
miles  further,  at  a  point  where  we  were  informed  there  was 
good  grass.  Distance  from  our  last  encampment  to  Fort  Lara- 
mie, 40  miles — to  this  camp,  46  miles. 


PROCESSIONS  OF  INDIANS.  Ill 


CHAPTER   VIII. 

Procession  of  tb'  Sioux — Purchase  of  mules — Extreme  high  prices  for  col"" 
fee,  sugar,  tobacco,  flour,  etc. — Shooting-match  with  the  Sioux  Indians 
— A  return  party  from  California — Denunciation  of  the  country  by  them 
— Resume  the  journey  on  pack-mules — Vexations  of  mule-packing — 
Canon  of  the  Platte — First  appearance  of  wild  sage — View  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains — Another  Oregon  return  party — Swarms  of  crickets — An  ex- 
tinct volcano — Green  peas — A  good  supper — Frost  in  the  mountains — 
Effects  of  earthquakes — Hunters  and  trappers:  their  numbers,  habits,  etc. 
— Celebration  of  the  4th  of  July — Gnats  and  mosquitoes — Joined  by  Mr. 
Buchanan — Alkaline  lakes — Impure  water,  its  effects — Sweet-water 
Mountains. 

June  24. — About  8  o'clock  I  started  alone  to  return  to  Fort 
Laramie.  I  had  not  travelled  far  when  I  met  processions  of 
the  Sioux  Indians,  who  this  morning  broke  up  their  encamp- 
ment. Having  resolved  upon  and  organized  an  expedition 
against  the  Snakes  and  Crows,  their  design  was  to  conduct 
their  women  and  children  to  a  point  on  the  Platte  about  fifty 
miles  above  the  Fort,  where  they  intended  to  leave  them  in  the 
care  of  the  old  men,  until  the  war  party  returned. 

In  marching,  as  1  met  them,  they  seemed  to  be  divided  into 
numerous  parties,  at  the  head  of  each  of  which  was  a  beautiful 
young  female  gorgeously  decorated,  mounted  upon  a  prancing 
fat  Indian  horse,  and  bearing  in  her  hand  a  delicate  staff  or 
pole,  about  ten  feet  in  length,  from  the  point  of  which  were 
suspended,  in  some  instances,  a  gilt  ball  and  a  variety  of  large 
brass  trinkets,  with  brilliant  feathers  and  natural  flowers  of 
various  colors.  The  chiefs,  dressed  in  their  richest  costumes, 
followed  immediately  in  the  rear  of  this  feminine  ensign-bearer, 
with  their  bows  and  arrows  in  hand.  Next  succeeding  ihera 
were  the  women  and  children,  and  pack-animals  belonging  to 
the  party ;  and  in  the  rear  of  all,  the  warriors.  The  whole,  as 
I  met  them,  party  after  party,  was  a  most  interesting  display  of 
savage  pageantiy.     The  female  standard-bearers  appeared  to 


112  MOUNTAIN    TRADERS    AND    TRAPPERS. 

me  more  beautiful  and  fascinating  than  any  objects  connected 
with  savage  life  which  I  had  ever  read  of  or  conceived.  It  ap- 
peared as  if  this  was  a  most  solemn  occasion,  for  not  one  of 
those  composing  the  long  column,  some  three  or  four  miles  in 
length,  as  I  passed  them,  seemed  to  recognise  any  object  or  to 
utter  a  word.  They  marched  at  a  slow  pace,  in  perfect  si- 
lence, with  their  eyes  gazing  steadfastly  upon  the  vacancy  ic 
front.  I  bowed  many  times,  but  they  took  no  notice  of  my 
salutations.  Doubtless  this  stern  deportment  was  expressive  of 
their  determination  not  to  look  to  the  right  or  the  left,  until 
they  had  penetrated  into  the  country  of,  and  wreaked  their 
vengeance  upon  their  enemies,  the  Snakes  and  Crows. 

Arriving  at  Fort  Laramie,  the  business  I  had  to  transact  de- 
taining me  some  hours,  I  was  invited  by  Mr.  Bourdeau  and 
other  officers  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  to  dine  with  them. 
The  dinner  consisted  of  boiled  corned  beef,  cold  biscuit,  and  milk. 
These  gentlemen  (and  some  of  them  are  gentlemen  in  manners 
and  intelligence)  informed  me  that  this  was  their  usual  fare, 
when  they  could  obtain  flour,  which  was  not  always  the  case. 
In  the  absence  of  bread,  they  subsist  upon  fresh  buffalo- 
meat,  venison,  salt  beef,  and  milk.  Mr.  Bourdeau,  the  principal 
of  the  Fort,  who  is  a  man  of  about  thiity,  informed  me  that  he 
left  the  settlements  of  the  United  States  fifteen  years  since,  and 
had  never  returned  to  them.  Most  of  the  others  with  whom  I 
dined,  had  been  absent  from  their  homes  and  civilization  several 
years. 

From  Laramie,  I  proceeded  back  to  the  small  trading- post, 
known  as  "  Fort  Bernard,"  where  I  ascertained  that  arrange- 
ments could  be  made  with  the  traders  from  Mexico  for  mules, 
by  exchanging  for  them  our  oxen  and  wagons.  I  was  joined 
here  by  the  other  members  of  the  party  which  accompanied 
me  from  the  wagons,  and  here  we  determined  to  encamp  until 
the  wagons  came  up. 

June  25. — The  mountain  traders  and  trappers  are  not  rich  in 
mxuries  ;  but  whatever  they  possess  they  are  ever  ready  to 
divide  with  their  guests.  In  a  trade,  however,  they  are  as  keen 
as  the  shrewdest  Yankee  that  ever  peddled  clocks  or  wooden 


INDIAN    TROPHIES  113 

nutmegs.  Coffee,  sugar,  and  tobacco,  are  valued  here  at  one 
doDar  per  pound  ;  whiskey  at  a  dollar  per  pint,  and  flour  at 
fifty  cents  per  pint.  The  last-named  article  is  sometimes  a 
dollar  per  pint,  according  to  the  supply,  payable  in  bufialo  or 
deer  skins,  buckskin  shirts  and  pantaloons,  moccasins,  etc.,  etc. 
Money  is  of  no  value  among  the  Indians.  The  traders,  how- 
ever, who  come  here  from  New  Mexico  and  the  United  States, 
whenever  they  see  their  advantage,  extort  money  from  the 
emigrants. 

Several  emigrant  companies  which  we  have  passed  in  the 
last  day  or  two,  arrived  this  evening,  and  encamped  near  the 
fort.  A  party  of  Sioux  Indians,  headed  by  two  chiefs,  on  their 
way  to  join  the  main  body  in  their  expedition  against  the  Snakes, 
halted  here  for  the  night.  The  two  chiefs  had  recently  re- 
turned from  a  victorious  expedition  against  the  Pawnees  ;  bring- 
ing with  them  twenty-five  scalps,  and  a  number  of  horses. 
They  held  a  "  talk,"  and  smoked  the  pipe  of  peace  and  friend- 
ship at  the  camp  of  Capt.  Cooper.  A  contribution  of  flour  and 
meat  was  then  made  by  the  emigrants  for  their  benefit. 

June  26. — Our  wagon  reached  Fort  Bernard  this  afternoon. 
"We  entertained  at  supper,  this  evening,  all  the  trappers  and 
traders  at  the  fort.  The  banquet  was  not  very  sumptuous, 
either  in  viands  or  the  manner  in  which  it  was  served  up  ;  but  it 
was  enjoyed,  I  dare  say,  with  a  higher  relish  tlian  many  a  feast 
served  in  a  thousand  dishes  of  porcelain  and  silver.  The 
mountaineer  who  has  subsisted  for  months  on  nothing  but  fresh 
meat,  would  proclaim  bread,  sugar,  and  coffee  to  be  high  orders 
of  luxury. 

June  27. — I  concluded,  this  morning,  a  trade  with  Mr.  New, 
a  trader  from  the  head-waters  of  the  Arkansas,  by  which  Mr. 
Jacob  and  myself  realized  seven  mules  with  pack-saddles  and 
other  trappings  for  packing,  for  our  wagon  and  three  yokes  ot 
oxen  and  their  appendages.  The  whole  of  the  day  has  been 
biisily  occupied  in  selecting  such  articles  from  our  baggage  as 
■we  cannot  dispense  with,  and  in  the  arrangement  of  our  packs. 

Just  before  sunset  we  had  a  shooting-match  at  a  target,  with 
a  number  of  Sioux  Indians,  in  which  the  bow  and  arrow,  rifle, 

10* 


i  14  MULE-PACKING. 

and  pistol  were  introduced.  These  Indians  shoot  the  arrow 
with  great  accuracy  and  force,  at  long  distances.  One  of  them 
handled  the  rifle  with  the  skill  of  a  marksman  and  hunter.  The 
rapid  repeating  discharges  of  Colt's  re vohing- pistol  astonished 
them  very  much.  They  regarded  the  instrument  with  so  much 
awe  as  to  be  unAvilling  to  handle  it. 

A  party  of  eight  or  ten  persons,  some  of  whom  were  retmn- 
ing  from  California,  and  some  from  Oregon,  to  the  United 
States,  encamped  a  small  distance  below  on  the  Platte.  One 
of  these  came  up  to  the  fort  to  purchase  pro\'isions.  He  gave  a 
most  discouraging  description  of  California ;  representing  it  as 
scarcely  habitable.  He  stated,  that  he  had  resided  in  that 
country  four  years,  durmg  which  time  not  a  drop  of  rain  had 
fallen  ;  that  no  crops  had  been  raised ;  that  vegetation  had 
perished,  and  that  the  population  there  must  necessaiily  perish 
for  want  of  food.  His  account  of  the  people  in  CaUfornia  was 
not  more  flattering  than  that  of  the  soU  and  chmatc.  According 
to  his  statement,  there  was  not  a  man  in  the  country,  now  that 
he  had  left  it,  who  was  not  as  thoroughly  steeped  in  \illany  as 
the  most  hardened  graduate  of  the  penitentiary.  This  man 
made  himself  very  busy  among  the  emigrant  parties  for  Cali- 
fornia, who  had  halted  here,  or  who  were  passing ;  and  many 
of  them,  I  have  reason  to  suppose,  were  credulous  enough  to 
believe  him.  It  was  easy  to  perceive,  however,  that  he  had  a 
motive  for  his  conduct,  "more  powerful  than  his  regard  for  the 
truth. 

June  28. — By  hard  labor  all  the  arrangements  for  our  new 
mode  of  travel  were  completed  this  morning ;  and  our  mules 
being  brought  up,  saddled  and  packed,  we  resumed  our  march 
about  1 2  o'clock.  The  party  which  started  consisted,  including 
myself,  of  Messrs.  Russell,  Jacob,  Kirkcndall,  Brown,  Curry, 
Holder,  Nuttall,  and  Brookey.  Not  one  of  us  had  ever  seen  a 
mule  packed  before  this  mDrning.  Some  New  Mexicans  wlio 
came  in  with  the  irading-party  gave  us  our  fii.st  lesson,  and  it 
was  a  very  valuable  one,  although  experience  and  necessity, 
the  best  of  tutors,  instructed  us  afterwards,  so  that  many 
became  adepts  in  the  ar*  of  handhng  and  packing  mules.     W« 


THE    MEXICAN    MULE.  115 

had  not  proceeded  more  than  two  miles,  before  several  of  our 
packs,  which  at  the  start  were  very  bulky,  and  not  well  balanced, 
were  swinging  under  the  belUes  of  the  animals.  These  being 
re-arranged,  to  the  best  of  our  poor  skill,  (and  very  poor  skill  it 
was,)  in  a  short  time  other  packs  would  be  in  the  same  con- 
dition. Although  these  incidents  were  vexatious,  they  never- 
theless afforded  us  occasionally  with  matter  for  laughter  and 
amusement,  chiefly  at  our  own  ignorance.  The  mules,  stupid 
as  we  regarded  them,  knew  more  about  this  business  than  we  did ; 
and  several  times  I  thought  I  could  detect  them  in  giving  a 
wise  wink  and  sly  leer,  as  much  as  to  say,  that  we  were  perfect 
novices,  and  if  they  could  speak,  they  would  give  us  the  benefit 
of  their  advice  and  instruction.  A  Mexican  pack-mule  is  one  of 
the  most  sagacious  and  intelligent  quadrupeds  that  I  have  ever 
met  with.  After  much  trouble  of  the  nature  described,  we 
reached  our  old  camp,  six  nules  beyond  Fort  Laramie,  where  we 
halted  for  the  night. '  We  passed  a  company  of  Oregon  emi- 
grants, from  one  of  whom  I  learned  that  Ewing  had  joined  a 
party  of  traders,  boimd  for  Taos  or  the  head-waters  of  the 
Arkansas.     I  did  not  hear  from  him  after  this. 

June  29. — Colonel  Russell  and  myself  left  our  party  in  the 
valley  of  the  Platte,  in  order  to  visit  Governor  Boggs's  train, 
which  we  could  see  moving  on  another  trail  along  the  crest  of 
the  bluffs  to  our  left,  about  three  miles  distant.  We  followed 
this  trail,  after  biddmg  adieu  to  our  late  fellow-travellers,  some 
ten  or  twelve  miles,  and  then  struck  across  the  country  for  the 
Platte,  expecting  to  intercept  our  party.  We  travelled  several 
hours  over  a  broken  country  covered  with  wild  sage,  and 
reached  the  Platte  about  three  o'clock,  p.  m.,  near  a  grove  of 
cotton-wood  trees,  and  just  below  a  canon  of  the  river,  formed 
by  perpendicular  walls  of  red  sandstone  200  or  300  feet  in 
height.  A  small  creek  flows  into  the  Platte  at  this  point,  the 
banks  of  which  are  dotted  with  occasional  clumps  of  timber. 
The  trees,  although  not  large,  are  the  largest  and  most  sym- 
metrical  we  have  seen  for  300  miles.  A  few  stimted  pines 
show  themselves  on  the  hills  bordering  the  Platte,  above  and 
hekmr  the  caflon. 


116  MOUNTAIN  SCENERY. 

Contrary  to  our  expectation,  we  found  no  trail  near  the  river 
Following  the  bank  of  the  creek,  we  struck  the  path  which 
we  had  left ;  and  ascertaining,  by  an  inspection  of  the  footprints 
in  the  road,  that  our  party  had  not  passed,  we  halted  under 
the  shade  of  a  small  tree,  and  struck  a  fire  to  keep  oflf  the  mos- 
quitoes and  gnats  until  they  should  come  up.  Our  mules 
appeared  to  understand  the  object  of  the  fire,  and  instead  of 
grazing,  as  usual,  they  took  their  positions  close  to  the  blaze  and 
smoke,  by  our  side.  Being  much  fatigued,  we  fell  fast  asleep. 
Just  before  sunset  our  party  came  up,  and  roused  us  from  our 
slumbers.  They  had  experienced  great  difficulties  with  the 
packs.  Some  of  the  mules  had  become  immanageable,  and  had 
to  be  reduced  to  disciphne  and  subjection  by  the  usual  process 
of  roping,  throwing,  etc.,  etc.,  which  occasioned  long  delays. 
Hence  their  slow  progress.  We  encamped  on  the  bank  of  tin 
creek.     Distance  travelled  on  the  trail,  20  miles. 

Jime  30. — Crossing  the  creek  a  few  miles  above  our  camp, 
we  entered  the  dry  bed  of  one  of  its  branches,  which  we  fol- 
lowed some  six  or  eight  miles  to  the  summit  of  an  elevated 
dividing  ridge.  The  dust  from  the  distiu-bance  by  oiu*  mules 
of  the  deep,  light  sand  along  the  trail,  has  been  at  times  almost 
suflFocating.  We  descended  from  the  ridge  through  a  narrow 
ravine  plowed  out  between  the  hills  by  the  melting  snows  or 
ton'ents  of  water  in  rainy  seasons,  and  entered  a  narrow  valle}- 
through  which  flows  another  small  stream  of  pm'e,  limpid  water. 
From  this  valley  we  ascended  by  a  steep  and  difficult  defile  an- 
other ridge  of  hills,  of  greater  elevation  than  the  last  described. 
The  view  from  this  ridge,  to  one  unaccustomed  to  mountain 
scenery,  is  strikingly  picturesque,  although  the  extensive  land- 
scape presents  a  wild,  desolate,  and  inhospitable  aspect.  On 
our  left  are  numerous  mountain-peaks  of  great  altitude,  com- 
posed of  barren  rocks,  and  rising  oije  behind  another  in  spiral 
forms.  To  the  right  and  in  front  there  is  a  vast  prospect  of 
low  cf)nical  hills  far  below  us,  ornamented  with  occasional 
groves  of  small  j)ines,  which,  from  their  linear  and  cur\'ilinear 
shapes,  appear  in  the  far  distance  like  immense  armies  drawn 
up  in  battle  array.     We   have   passed    to-day  Laramie's,  oi 


CRICKETS EXTINCT  VOLCANO.  117 

James's  Peak,  and  -what  are  called  the  Black  Hills.  We  en- 
camped at  a  small  spring-branch,  in  a  depression  of  the  ridge. 
The  atmosphere  has  an  autumnal  feel,  and  the  wind  blows  fresh 
and  cold  from  the  northwest.     Distance  25  miles. 

July  1. — Leaving  our  camp  this  morning,  we  crossed  a  coun- 
try exhibiting  a  surface  of  conical  sand-hills,  and  furrowed  with 
deep  chasms  and  ravines.  In  the  course  of  our  morning  march 
we  had  a  view,  at  a  distance  of  some  twenty  miles,  of  the 
waters  of  the  Platte.  The  diameter  of  the  landscape  exhibited 
lo  the  eye  from  several  positions  during  the  day's  march,  was 
at  least  100  miles.  It  presented  a  broken,  barren,  and  desolate 
appearance. 

We  met  this  afternoon,  just  after  crossing  a  creek  upon  which 
we  had  nooned,  a  company  of  sixteen  men,  driving  before  them 
about  thirty  horses,  retiiming  to  the  States  from  Oregon.  I 
conversed  with  several  members  of  this  party.  They  manifested 
considerable  curiosity  and  anxiety  in  reference  to  the  Oregon 
negotiations  in  progress  with  Great  Britain.  They  expressed 
themselves  as  highly  pleased  with  the  country  on  the  Pacific, 
from  whence  they  came,  and  avowed  their  determination  to 
return  to  it  and  make  it  their  residence  for  life. 

I  noticed,  to-day,  in  the  trail,  immense  numbers  of  insects,  in 
color  and  motion  resembling  the  common  cricket.  They  are 
much  larger,  however,  and  their  bodies  more  rotund.  In  places, 
the  ground  was  blackened  with  them,  and  they  were  crushed 
imder  the  feet  of  our  animals  at  every  step. 

We  encamped,  this  afternoon,  in  a  small,  oval-shaped  valley, 
through  which  flows  a  ri^mlet  of  pure,  limpid  water.  The  val- 
ley is  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  high,  mountainous  elevations, 
several  of  which  are  composed  of  granite-rock,  upheaved  by 
the  subterranean  convulsions  of  nature :  others  are  composed 
of  red  sandstone  and  red  clay.  A  volcanic  debris  is  thickly 
scattered  in  places.  Many  ages  ago,  the  spot  where  we  are 
encamped,  and  where  the  grass  is  now  growing,  was  the  crater 
of  a  volcano  ;  but  its  torch  is  extinguished  forever.  Where  then 
flowed  the  river  of  liquid  fire,  carbonizing  and  \itrifying  the 
S'arroxmding  districts,  now  gurgles  the  cool,  limpid  current,  of 


118  6REEN  PEAS — OTHER  LTTXHEIES. 

the  brook,  in  its  laughing  and  fertilizing  career  towards  the  greai 
Father  of  Waters.  The  thunders  of  its  convidsions,  breaking  the 
granite  crust  of  the  globe,  upheaving  and  overturning  mountains, 
and  "  crushing  the  waters  into  mist,"  are  now  silenced ;  and  its 
volumes  of  sulphurous  vapor  and  heated  cinders,  darkenmg 
the  atmosphere  and  affrighting  the  huge  monster  animals  which 
then  existed,  when  gazing  from  afar,  are  dissipated,  and  Avill 
never  more  be  seen.  Instead  of  these,  the  sweet  chhp  of  tlie 
wren,  and  the  chatter  of  the  magpie,  are  heard  among  the  tree.s 
bordering  the  stream,  and  light,  fleecy  clouds  are  floating 
thi'ouffh  the  azui'e  vault  of  the  heavens.  Such  are  the  benefi- 
cent  changes  ordered  by  that  Power  whose  wisdom  can  render 
perfection  more  perfect. 

A  company  of  emigrants,  composed  chiefly  of  those  who  had 
belonged  to  our  original  party,  at  its  organization,  encamped 
near  us.  I  was  in\dted  by  Mr.  Branham,  whom  I  have  before 
mentioned,  to  take  supper  in  his  tent.  He  had  gathered,  during 
the  day,  a  mess  of  green  peas  from  the  wild  pea-vines  along 
the  trail.  These  had  been  prepared  under  the  superintendence 
of  Mrs.  B.,  and  were  a  genuine  luxury.  But,  that  the  epicure 
of  the  "  settlements  "  ma}^  not  sneer  at  our  moimtain  entertain- 
ment, I  will  state,  that  in  addition  to  the  dish  just  named,  there 
were  on  the  table  smoking  biscuits,  fresh  butter,  honey,  rich 
milk,  cream,  venison  steaks,  and  tea  and  coffee.  With  a  hearty 
welcome,  what  more  could  a  man  with  an  appetite  desire  ?  Dis- 
tance 20  miles. 

July  2. — Mr.  Kirkendall,  whom  I  expected  would  accompany 
us,  having  changed  liis  destination  from  California  to  Oregon,  in 
consequence,  as  I  suppose,  of  the  unfavorable  representations 
made  at  Fort  Bernard  in  reference  to  the  first-named  coimtry, 
we  were  compelled  to  strengthen  our  party  by  adding  to  it 
some  other  person  in  his  place.  For  this  purpose  we  remained 
encamped  during  the  day,  waiting  for  some  of  the  rear  emi- 
grant parties  to  come  up.  None  appearing  during  the  forenoon, 
in  the  afternoon,  accompanied  by  Brookey,  I  rode  back  sotne 
five  or  six  miles,  where  1  met  Governor  Boggs's  company,  and 
prevailed  ujjon  Mr.  Hiram  Miller,  a  member  of  it,  to  join  us. 


VOLCANIC  APPEARANCES,  ll9 

JiJy  3. — The  buflalo-robes  (which  compose  a  portion  of  our 
bedding)  were  hoary  with  frost,  and  the  grass  through  the 
whole  valley  was  stiffened  and  white  with  the  congealed  mois- 
ture which  had  been  condensed  upon  it  during  the  night. 

As  we  gradually  ascend  towards  the  summit  of  the  Rocky 
Moimtains,  the  face  of  the  country  on  our  right  and  left  be- 
comes more  and  more  sterile  and  broken.  We  passed,  this 
morning,  throu^'h  a  deep,  circular  hollow,  surrounded  on  all 
sides  by  masses  of  rocks  of  great  altitude,  thrown  up  by  earth- 
quakes. In  the  centre  of  this  valley,  the  bottom  of  which  is  a 
flat  plain,  there  rises  a  conical  mass  of  loose  rocks,  piled  one 
upon  another,  about  one-eighth  of  a  mile  in  diameter  at  the 
base,  and  rising  to  the  height  of  several  hundred  feet.  This 
pyramid  has  evidently  been  raised  by  subterranean  combustion, 
but  at  a  remote  period  of  geological  history. 

We  encamped  this  afternoon  at  one  o'clock  on  Beaver  creek, 
an  affluent  of  the  Platte.  The  grass  and  water  are  good,  and 
the  wood  is  abimdant.  The  timber  which  fringes  the  margin 
of  the  stream  is  chiefly  box-elder  and  large  willows.  I  noticed 
scattered  among  and  enlivening  the  brownish  verdure  of  the 
grass,  many  specimens  of  handsome  and  brilliantly  colored 
flowers.  One  of  these  was  of  the  hly  family,  presenting  pecu- 
Uarities  distinguishing  it  from  any  flower  of  the  same  genus  I 
have  before  seen.  The  prevailing  vegetation  during  the  day's 
march,  except  immediately  along  the  water-com-ses,  has  been  the 
wild  sage,  (artemisia.)  In  this  region  this  shrub  grows  frequent- 
ly to  the  height  of  two  or  three  feet.  Its  stalk  is  hgneous,  and 
is  sometimes  of  a  diameter  of  two  or  three  inches. 

We  were  joined  to-day  by  Capt.  Welles  and  Mr.  McClary, 
the  first  a  mountain-trapper,  intending  to  accompany  us  as  far 
as  Fort  Bridger,  and  the  last  an  emigrant  bound  for  California. 
Capt.  Welles,  as  he  informed  us  and  as  I  was  informed  by 
others,  had  once  held  a  commission  in  the  British  army.  He 
was  in  the  battles  of  Waterloo  and  New  Orleans.  He  was  a  man 
of  about  sixty,  vigorous  and  athletic,  and  his  manners,  address, 
and  general  intelligence,  although  clothed  in  the  rude  buckskin 
costume  of  the  wilderness,  confirmed  the  statements  in  regard 


i20  CELEBRA'l  ION  OF  INDEPEMUENCB. 

to  him,  made  by  himself  and  others.  The  Rocky  Mountains 
have  theh  white  as  well  as  their  copper-colored  population.  The 
former  I  should  estimate  at  from  five  hmidred  to  one  thousand, 
scattered  among  the  Indians,  and  inhabiting,  temporarily,  the 
various  trading-posts  of  the  Fm-  Companies.  Adventure, 
romance,  avarice,  misanthropy,  and  sometimes  social  outlawry, 
have  their  influence  in  enticing  or  driving  these  persons  into  this 
savage  wilderness.  After  takhig  up  theh  abode  here,  they 
rarely  retui-n,  to  remain  permanently,  to  civilized  life.  They 
usually  contract  ties  with  the  Indians  which  are  sufficiently 
strong  to  induce  their  return,  if  they  occasionally  visit  the 
"  settlements."  Many  of  them  have  Indian  wives  and  large 
families.  Polygamy  is  not  uncommon.  They  conform  to  sav- 
age customs,  and  from  their  superior  intelligence  have  much 
influence  over  the  Indians,  and  frequently  dhect  their  move- 
ments and  poUcy  in  war  and  peace.     Distance  1 8  miles. 

July  4. — Gov.  Boggs's  emigrant  company  having  arrived  and 
encamped  just  above  us  last  night,  it  was  resolved,  out  of  respect 
to  the  birthday  of  our  National  Independence,  to  celebrate  it 
in  the  usual  manner,  so  far  as  we  had  the  ability  so  to  do.  Mr. 
J.  H.  Reed  had  preserved  some  wines  and  Uquors  especially  for 
this  occasion — an  anniversary,  by  the  way,  which  in  this  remote 
and  desert  region  crowded  our  memories  with  reminiscences  of 
the  past,  pleasurable  from  the  associations  which  they  recalled, 
and  painful  from  the  position  which  we  now  occupied. 

At  nine  o'clock,  a.  m.,  our  united  parties  convened  m  a  grove 
near  the  emigrant  encampment.  A  salute  of  small-arms  was 
discharged.  A  procession  was  then  formed,  which  marched 
around  the  corral,  and  returning  to  the  grove,  the  Declaration 
of  American  Independence  was  read,  and  an  address  was  deUv- 
ered  by  Col.  Russell.  A  collation  was  tlien  served  up  by  the 
ladies  of  the  encampment,  at  the  conclusion  of  which,  toasts 
suitable  to  the  patriotic  occasion  were  given  and  drunk  with 
much  enthusiasm,  a  discharge  of  musketry  accompanying  each 
sentiment.  Songs  were  sung,  patriotic  and  sentunental,  and  I 
thought,  on  the  whole,  that  the  "  glorious  fourth"  was  celebrated 
here  ia  this  remote  desert  with  more  spirit  and  zest,  than  it 


FLOWERS BIRDS.  iSSl 

usually  is  in  the  crowded  cities  of  ^he  States.     The  pageantry, 
of  course,  was  not  so  imposing. 

After  participating  in  these  ceremonies  and  festivities,  in  the 
afternoon  we  resumed  our  journey,  making  a  short  march  over  a 
countiy  exhibiting  greater  fertility  than  has  been  presented  for 
several  days  past.  The  wild  sage  is  the  prevailing  vegetation 
on  the  table-land  and  on  the  sides  of  the  hills,  giving  to  them  a 
dark  and  shaggy  aspect.  Occasionally  there  are  patches  of 
biuich-grass,  which  is  heavily  seeded  and  appears  to  be  highly 
relished  by  om*  animals.  The  cactus  continues  to  display  its 
yellow  and  sometimes  crimson  blossoms  on  all  sides. 

We  encamped  this  afternoon  near  a  grove  of  box-elder, 
willows,  and  alders,  on  the  bank  of  a  creek  fifteen  or  twenty 
feet  in  width,  with  pure  limpid  water  running  over  a  gravelly 
and  sandy  bed.  The  grass  surrounding  our  camp  is  more 
abundant  and  luxm'iant  than  I  have  seen  for  several  himdred 
miles.  Oui"  mules  as  well  as  ourselves  suffer  much  from  the 
myriads  of  buftalo-gnats  and  mosquitoes,  which  take  up  their 
abode  near  all  the  water-coxirses  and  eveiy  fertile  spot.  The 
evening  is  perfectly  calm  and  very  beautiful.  The  howling  oi 
the  wolves  and  the  low  hum  of  the  insects,  are  the  only  sounds 
which  disturb  the  profound  soUtude.  We  have  seen  but  few 
bh'ds  or  signs  of  animals  smce  we  left  the  Platte  bottom.  I 
noticed  several  magpies  this  afternoon.     Distance  12  miles. 

July  5. — The  sun  rose  clear,  with  dark  banks  of  >^louds  in 
the  west,  which  soon  disappeared.  The  Uttle  grove  near  our 
camp  was  rendered  musical  by  the  notes  of  the  wren  and 
other  feathered  choristers.  The  buffalo-gnats  and  mosouitoes, 
as  usual,  were  excessively  annoying  just  after  sumisc. 

Tlie  face  of  the  country  for  several  miles  of  our  march  this 
morning,  presented  more  habitable  indications  than  X  have 
observed  since  leaving  Fort  Laramie.  Deer  and  antelope  were 
frequently  seen  grazing  at  a  distance,  and  birds  of  various 
plumage  and  notes  were  flitting  across  our  path  and  perching 
themselves  upon  the  low  bhrubbery  These  moving  objects 
relieve  the  death-Uke  -orpor  and  silence  which  generally  pre- 
vail.    Crossing  two  small  blanches  we  struck  the  Platte  onoe 


122  SHRUBS DROnOHT. 

more  about  ten  o'clock,  a.  m.  The  channel  of  the  Platte  her» 
is  not  more  than  two  hundred  feet  in  breadth.  We  travelled 
up  the  south  bank  of  the  river  imtil  we  encamped  for  the  day 

Our  camp  is  in  a  handsome  bottom  covered  with  green,  lusu- 
riant  grass,  and  ornamented  with  a  grove  of  tall,  straiarht  cotto/) 
wood  trees.  Jacob  brought  into  camp  a  specimen  of  coal 
taken  from  the  bank  of  the  Platte  Dy  ^ne  ot  tt»e  emigrants. 
It  resembled  our  commom  bitiuninous  coal,  0i.*i  when  pliced 
on  the  fire  it  did  not  seem  to  ignite  or  blaze  freely.  This*  s  the 
first  positive  indication  of  the  existence  of  coal  I  have  noticed 
during  our  journey.  A  shrub  called  grease- wood,  about  three 
feet  in  height,  with  a  bright  green  foliage  containing  a  fetid, 
oily  substance,  in  places  disputes  the  occupancy  of  the  soU  with 
the  wild  sage.  The  sun-flower,  wild  daisy,  and  a  flower  emit- 
ting an  odor  resembling  the  heliotrope,  have  exhibited  themselves. 
We  foimd  here  two  emigrant  companies,  one  for  Oregon  and 
one  for  California.  One  of  them  was  encamped  on  account 
of  the  illness  and  expected  death  of  one  of  its  members,  a 
woman.  No  rain  appears  to  have  fallen  in  this  vicinity  for  a 
long  time.  The  groimd  is  so  hard  that  it  is  with  difticulty  that 
we  can  force  our  mule-pickets  into  it.  While  on  the  march, 
we  are  frequently  enveloped  in  clouds  of  dust.  Distance  28 
miles. 

July  6. — Travelling  up  the  river  seven  or  eight  miles,  on 
the  south  bank,  we  forded  it  just  below  a  grove  of  cotton- wood 
trees.  From  the  ford  the  trail  ascends  the  high  bluifs  over- 
looking the  valley  of  the  river,  from  which  we  had  a  view  of 
several  green  islands,  one  of  which  resembles  a  heart  so  nearly 
in  shape  that  we  named  it  Heart  Island.  Vegetation  over  the 
expanse  of  table-land  on  our  right  is  brown  and  dead  with 
drought.  After  a  march  of  several  mUes  on  the  bluff's,  we 
crossed  a  deep  ravine  or  chasm,  through  which  we  descended 
agciin  to  the  bottom  of  the  Platte,  where  we  found  Capt.  West's 
company  of  emigrants  encamped  for  the  day.  Several  of  the 
emigrating  parties  have  been  encamped  here,  and  have  jerked 
buffiilo  meat.  By  invitation,  Mr.  John  C.  Buchamm,  of  Lex 
kigton,  Ey.,  joined  us  at  tliis  place. 


BITTER    WATER.  123 

After  halting  a  short  time,  our  party,  with  the  exception  of 
myself  moved  on.  I  waited  for  Mr.  Buchanan  to  complete 
his  arrangements  for  separating  from  those  with  whom  he 
had  heretofore  travelled.  We  left  the  emigrant  encampment, 
both  of  us  much  encumbered  with  his  baggage,  about  five 
o'clock,  p.  M.  The  traU  here  finally  leaves  the  Platte  river. 
Ascending  the  bluflfs  on  the  right,  we  pursued  our  way  over  an 
and  plain,  the  only  vegetation  upon  which  is  the  wUd  sage, 
grease-wood,  and  a  few  perishing  plants.  We  passed  immense 
piles  of  rocks,  red  and  black,  sometimes  in  columnar  and  some- 
times in  conical  and  pyramidal  shapes,  thrown  up  by  volcanic 
convulsions.  These,  with  deep  ravines,  and  chasms,  and  wide- 
spread sterility  and  desolation,  are  the  distinguishing  features  of 
the  landscape.  We  reached  our  camp  at  a  spring  impreg- 
nated with  salt  and  sulphur,  about  ten  o'clock  at  night.  An 
emigrant  company  had  made  their  camp  here.  In  the  course 
of  the  march  we  have  passed  several  small  lakes  or  ponds, 
incrusted  with  the  carbonate  of  soda  or  common  salera- 
tus.  Their  appearance  resembles  congealed  water.  A  few 
buffaloes  have  been  noticed  at  a  distance  during  our  march. 
On  oiir  right,  this  afternoon,  at  a  very  great  distance,  I  observed 
the  summits  of  several  high  mountains  covered  with  snow. 
Distance  28  mUes. 

July  7. — I  was  seized,  during  the  night,  with  a  violent  and 
exhausting  sickness.  The  soil  and  water  of  the  coxxntry  throxxgh 
which  we  are  now  travelling,  are  strongly  impregnated  with 
salt,  alkah,  and  sulphur ;  rendering  the  use  of  the  water,  in 
large  quantities,  deleteiious  to  health,  if  not  dangerous.  I  was 
scarcely  able  to  moxmt  my  mxde  when  we  commenced  the  day's 
march. 

A  ride  of  fourteen  miles,  over  an  arid,  xmdxdating  plain, 
with  a  growth  of  stxmted  wild  sage,  brought  us  to  a  small 
grassy  hollow,  through  which  rxms  a  faint  stream  of  limpid 
water.  Nothing,  in  my  condition  of  extreme  thirst  and  feverish 
excitement,  much  aggravated  by  the  hot  sxm  and  dust,  could  be 
more  cheering  thac  this  agreeable  sight.  Dismoxmtuig  fron 
my  mule,  in  an  almost  fainting  state,  I  hastened  to  the  stream, 


124  SWEETWATER    MOUNTAINS. 

and  sitting  down  beside  it,  filled  my  cup  with  the  water ;  but 
great  was  my  disappointment,  when  raising  the  cup  to  my  hps 
1  foimd  the  Uquid  bitter  with  salt  and  alkali,  and  imdrinkable. 
I  dug  several  holes  with  my  hand  and  cup  in  the  sand,  close  to 
the  stream,  hoping  to  obtain  water  less  impregnated  with  these 
disagreeable  substances,  but  mthout  success.  Some  one  of  our 
party  in  searching  about,  however,  discovered  at  the  lower  end 
of  the  Uttle  valley,  in  the  side  of  a  bank,  a  small  spiing  and  a 
basin  of  fresh  cold  water.  To  describe  the  deliciousness  of  this,  as 
it  tasted  to  me  in  my  diseased  and  feveiish  condition,  would  be 
impossible.  I  drank  draught  after  draught,  and  then  making  a 
shade  from  the  sun  with  my  blankets,  laid  down  to  rest  while 
oiir  mules  were  grazing. 

The  cooling  water  of  the  spring,  and  an  hour's  rest,  re\ived 
my  strength ;  and  at  three  o'clock  we  resumed  our  march. 
Five  miles  from  this  we  passed  another  spring  of  cold  water ; 
the  purest  I  have  tasted  since  leaving  the  Blue  River.  It  is  on 
the  right  hand  of  the  trail,  and  sm-rounded  b}'  clumps  of  witch- 
hazel  and  alders.  Ascending  from  this  spring  several  miles,  we 
mounted  the  summit  of  a  dividing  ridge,  from  which  we  had  a 
view  of  the  Sweetwater  River  Mountains,  raising  their  bald 
rocky  pinnacles  at  a  distance  of  some  twenty  or  thirty  miles. 
Descending  from  this  ridge,  we  reached,  about  sunset,  a  small 
Btream,  and  encamped  upon  its  grassy  banks.  A  number  oi 
small  herds  of  buffalo  have  been  seen  during  our  day's  ride, 
We  have  passed  several  dead  oxen,  and  others  alive,  but  ex 
aausted  by  the  journey.     Distance  30  milef 


INDBPBNDENCE  ROCK DEVILS  OATB.       t2b 


CHAPTER    IX. 

.ndependence  Rock — Sweetwater  River — Devil's  Gate — A  solitary  traveller 
— Distaut  view  of  Wind  River  Mountains — Chalky  Lakes — Deleterious 
effects  of  milk — Sickness  iu  emigrating  parties — Another  return  party  from 
California — Buffalo-chase — Mortality  among  the  oxen  of  the  emigrants — 
Wolves  in  chase  of  diseased  oxen — South  Pass  of  the  Rocky  Mountains — 
Pacific  Springs — Last  view  of  the  Atlantic  slope — Jacob's  Tower — LittJe 
Sandy  River — Troublesome  visiters — The  Mirage — Big  Sandy  River — 
Greenwood's  CutofF— Curious  incident — Snake  Indian  hunting-party. 

July  8. — We  reached  about  noon  a  well-known  landmark  of  the 
mountains,  called  "  Independence  Rock  ;"  from  the  circumstance 
of  the  celebration  of  the  fourth  of  July  here  by  one  of  the  first 
emigrant  companies  to  Oregon.  It  is  an  isolated  elevation, 
composed  of  masses  of  rock,  about  one  hundred  feet  in  height, 
and  a  mile  or  more  in  chcumference,  standing  in  a  central  and 
conspicuous  position  near  the  northern  bank  of  the  Sweetwater 
river,  and  between  the  ranges  of  moimtains  which  border  the 
valley  of  that  stream.  A  multitude  of  names,  to  the  niunber, 
I  should  suppose,  of  several  thousand,  are  painted  and  graven 
upon  this  rock.  I  did  not  follow  the  example  of  those  who  have 
preceded  me,  and  my  name  is  not  there.  Near  this  place  are 
several  small  lakes,  the  waters  of  which  having  evaporated, 
have  left  a  deposite  or  incrustation  of  the  carbonate  of  soda. 
They  resemble  ponds  of  frozen  water.  Col.  Russell  and  myself 
supplied  ourselves  with  saleratus,  for  cuhnary  purposes,  from 
this  bovmtiful  natural  manufactory  of  this  article,  without  price. 

Proceeding  up  the  Sweetwater  river  about  five  miles,  we 
passed  what  is  called  the  Devil's  Gate  ;  a  remarkable  fissure  in 
the  rocky  mountain-wall,  which,  above  this  point,  rims  parallel 
with  and  within  a  short  distance  of  the  stream.  The  fissure  is 
about  thirty  feet  in  breadth,  and  the  perpendicular  walls  on 
each  side  of  the  channel  of  the  stream  which  flows  through 
it,  are,  by  estimate,  between  two  and  three  hxmdred  feet  in 
height,  perhaps  more. 

11* 


126  SWEETWATER  RIVER. 

We  encamped  just  above  the  Devil's  Gate  about  twelve 
D'clock,  M.  The  camp  of  Captain  Cooper's  emigrant  company 
was  a  short  distance  from  us.  By  invitation,  Colonel  Russeli 
and  myself  dined  at  the  tent  of  Captain  C,  who,  with  a  large 
and  interestmg  family  of  sons  and  daughters,  is  d<rr*ined  foi 
California.  Wild  cun-ants  have  been  quite  abundant  along  the 
trail  in  several  places  to-day.  A  few  buffalo  were  seen.  Dis- 
tance 16  miles. 

July  9. — The  Sweetwater  mountains,  on  the  north  side  of  the 
stream,  are  composed  of  bare  granite  rocks,  entirely  destitute  of 
vegetation.  These  rise  abruptly  to  a  high  elevation.  The 
mountains  on  the  left  are  more  sloping,  and  have  a  soil  sustain- 
ing vegetation.  The  Sweetwater  river  at  this  time  is  at  this 
point  not  more  than  thirty  feet  in  breadth,  and  so  shallow  that 
it  can  be  waded  without  wetting  the  knees.  The  grass  covering 
its  bottom  seems  to  have  been  bhghted  by  drought  before  it 
reached  maturity,  and  is  for  the  most  part  brown  and  crisp. 
Following  the  wagon-trail  we  left  the  river  about  nine  o'clock, 
A.  M.,  and  returned  to  it  again  after  a  ride  of  four  hours.  We 
nooned  upon  the  bank  of  the  stream,  near  a  clump  of  small 
willows.  The  trail  diverges  again  from  the  river,  and  crosses  a 
broken  and  arid  plain,  the  vegetation  upon  which  is  the  sage 
and  grease-wood,  with  a  few  straggling  blades  of  dead  grass. 
The  flinty  gravel  mingled  with  the  sand  is  very  destructive 
to  the  feet  of  our  animals.  I  noticed  this  afternoon  two  re- 
markable dome-shaped  rocks  of  great  elevation,  between  which 
there  is  a  gap  in  the  right-hand  range  of  mountains,  affording  a 
view  to  the  north  of  great  extent,  bounded  by  some  high  moun- 
tain-peaks which  seem  almost  to  mingle  their  summits  with  the 
clouds. 

Myriads  of  the  insect  before  described,  resembling  the  cricket, 
blackened  the  ground  in  places.  We  encamped  this  afternoon 
on  the  river,  near  a  narrow  gap  between  the  ranges  of  moun- 
tains through  wliich  the  Sweetwater  forces  its  way.  Distance 
30  miles. 

July  10. — Wlien  the  sun  rose  it  shone  upon  and  illuminated 
a  denitu  bank  of  fog  resting  at  the  base  of  the  mountains  to  the 


A  80LITART  TRAVELLER SNOWY  MOUNTAINS  127 

southeast,  giving  it  the  appearance  of  an  immense  mass  of 
snow.  An  Oregon  emigrant  company  having  encamped  near 
us  last  night,  we  were  visited  by  them  this  morning ;  and  one  of 
them,  (Dr.  Davis,)  originally  from  Montgomery  county,  Kentucky, 
and,  as  he  informed  me,  a  relative  of  the  Hon.  Garrett  Davis, 
the  distinguished  member  of  Congress  of  Kentucky,  invited 
Colonel  Russell  and  myself  to  breakfast  with  his  family.  We 
accepted  the  in\'itation,  and  partook  with  strong  appetites  of  his 
good  cheer.  This  company  had  been  successful  in  hunting  deei 
and  we  obtained  from  one  of  the  party  a  supply  of  fat  venison. 

Just  before  we  were  leaving  camp  for  the  day's  march  a 
solitary  horseman  rode  up.  From  his  own  account,  which  I 
have  no  reason  to  doubt,  his  name  was  Bonney,  from  Oregon, 
and  he  had  travelled  from  Fort  Hall  to  this  place  by  himself, 
and  intended  to  make  the  journey  into  the  settlements  of  the 
United  States  alone.  He  travelled,  I  beUeve,  in  the  night,  and 
concealed  himself  and  horse  in  the  ravines  during  daylight.  He 
emigrated  to  Oregon  last  year  from  Ohio,  and  was  now  returning 
to  take  out  his  family  next  year.  There  must  have  been  a  pow- 
erful motive  to  induce  an  experienced  man  to  risk  the  hazards  of 
such  a  journey ;  and  whether  he  ever  reached  the  end  of  it  or  not 
I  can  scarcely  conceive  to  be  doubtful.  Mr.  Bonney  brought 
with  him  an  open  letter  from  L.  W.  Hastings,  Esq.,  of  California, 
dated  on  the  head-waters  of  the  Sweetwater,  and  addressed  to 
the  California  emigrants  on  the  road.  The  main  contents  of  the 
letter  I  will  not  recite.  It  hinted,  however,  at  probable  oppo- 
sition from  the  Californian  government  to  the  ingress  to  that 
country  of  American  emigrants ;  and  invited  those  bound  for 
California  to  concentrate  their  numbers  and  strength,  and  to 
take  a  new  route  which  had  been  explored  by  Mr.  H.,  from 
Fort  Bridger  via  the  south  end  of  the  Salt  Lake,  by  which  the 
distance  would  be  materially  shortened. 

Passing  through  the  gap  between  the  two  ranges  of  granite 
mountains  which  here  approach  each  other  within  a  few  him- 
dred  yards,  we  had  our  first  view  of  the  Wind  River  Mountains. 
They  were  hoary  with  a  drapery  of  snow  more  than  haKway 
from  their  simimits  to  their  bases,  and  appeared,  from  the  dis- 


128  BAD  EFFECTS  OF  MILK. 

tance  we  saw  ttem,  like  white  clouds  resting  upon  the  horia'>D. 
It  was  a  satisfaction  to  know  that  we  were  in  sight  of  the  crest 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  point  where  the  waters  of  the 
continent  di\'ide,  taking  different  courses — the  one  flowing  into 
the  Atlantic,  the  other  into  the  Pacific. 

We  passed  through  a  narrow  valley  several  miles  in  length, 
the  surface  of  which  is  white  with  an  alkahne  efflorescence.  A 
small  stream  flows  through  this  valley,  the  water  of  which  is 
bitter  with  alkaline  impregnation.  Several  numerous  flocks  of 
antelope  have  been  in  sight  to-day. 

Returning  to  the  Sweetwater  about  four  o'clock,  p.  m.,  we 
3ncamped  near  a  cluster  of  small  willows,  after  a  continuous 
march  of  nine  hours.  The  ranges  of  hills  running  parallel  with 
the  river  have,  at  this  point,  lost  in  some  degree  their  rocky 
characteristics.  They  are  not  so  elevated,  and  more  gentle  and 
sloping.  The  bottom  on  which  we  are  encamped  is  covered 
with  the  common  thistle,  and  there  is  but  little  grass.  The 
mules,  however,  crop  the  thistle-blossoms,  and  seem  to  relish 
them.  The  atmosphere  is  filled  with  swarms  of  mosquitoes, 
which  bite  with  a  fierceness  far  greater  than  their  civilized  breth- 
ren of  the  "  settlements."  Colonel  Russell  complains  of  severe 
and  painful  sickness  to-night.  Brown  shot  an  antelope  in  the 
sage  near  our  camp ;  but  lea^^ng  the  carcass  where  it  fell,  in 
order  to  obtain  a  mule  to  pack  it  on,  before  he  could  retm-n  to 
it  acrain  tlie  wolves  had  devoured  it.     Distance  33  miles. 

July  11. — We  continued  our  route  up  the  valley  of  the 
Sweetwater,  occasionally  leaving  the  bank  of  the  stream  and 
strikiniT  over  the  rollino:  and  arid  table-land  to  cut  off  the  bends 
We  nooned  near  some  small  lakes  or  ponds,  the  water  of  whicL 
is  so  saturated  a\  itli  a  cretaceous  substance  as  to  be  unfit  for  use. 
Some  of  our  mules  drank  of  it, — others  refused.  Brown's 
Oregon  emigrating-company,  consisting  of  about  thirty  wagons, 
nooned  at  the  same  place.  They  supplied  us  with  milk  anci 
buttermilk — frc'f|iu'ntly  used  by  the  emigrants  as  substitutes  lor 
water,  I'ut  I  ;im  inclined  to  the  belief  that  the  large  quantities 
of  milk  drank  by  the  emigrating  parties,  are  productive  of  the 
fatal  febrile  complaint  known  among  them  a.>-  "  camp-fever." 


SICKNESS  OF  EMIGRANTS.  129 

Most  of  the  emigrant  families  drive  along  with  them  several 
cows  which  are  regularly  milked,  and  in  a  thirsty  state  the 
milk  is  frequently  drank. in  quarts,  and  sometimes  gallons,  hi 
the  coiirse  of  a  few  hours.  It  also  composes  a  portion  of 
every  meal,  being  used  as  water  or  coffee  dui'ing  the  heart)-  re- 
pasts upon  fat  middling  of  bacon  and  buffalo  meat.  The  cow 
which  yields  the  milk,  from  being  constantly  exercised  in  the 
hot  sun,  with  little  rest  day  or  night,  is  frequently  in  a  dis- 
eased or  feverish  state.  It  is  more  than  probable  that  the  dis- 
ease afflicting  the  animal  is  communicated,  through  the  use  of 
its  milk,  to  those  who  drink  it  in  the  quantities  which  I  have 
named.  Besides  this,  the  cows  are  frequently  forced  to  sub- 
sist upon  herbage,  the  poisonous  qualities  of  which  are  im- 
parted, in  some  extent,  to  their  milk,  and  thus  communicated  to 
those  who  use  it  too  freely.  This  conclusion  may  be  erroneous, 
but  it  has  subsequently  been  confirmed  by  Dr.  Saunderson, 
a  surgeon  of  the  army,  who  accompanied  General  Kearny's 
expedition  to  New  Mexico  and  California,  for  whose  opinion  1 
entertain  great  respect. 

There  were  in  Mr.  Brown's  company  several  persons  pros- 
trated with  fevers  and  other  diseases.  I  was  called  upon  as 
usual,  when  passing  emigrant  parties,  to  prescribe  and  give  .id- 
vice  in  these  cases,  and  the  short  time  I  remained  here  was 
busily  employed  among  the  sick.  One  of  the  cases  of  fever 
was  a  young  man  about  twenty-one  years  of  age.  He  had 
been  ni  ten  or  twelve  days.  I  found  him  in  the  wagon  in  a 
state  of  half  stupor.  His  pulse  was  slow  and  irregular,  some- 
times rolling  with  a  throbbing  volume,  then  sinking  to  a  wiry 
feel.     A  cold  perspiration  stood  on  his  forehead. 

Another  case  to  which  I  was  called,  was  that  of  a  woman  of 
about  thirty-five  or  forty.  She  was  of  a  natvirally  vigorous  con- 
stitution, and  inclined  to  corpulency.  I  foimd  her  prostrate  in  a 
close-tented  wagon,  upon  the  covering  of  which  the  sun  was  pour- 
ing its  almost  scorching  rays.  A  burning  fever  had  flushed  hei 
face  to  the  color  almost  of  scarlet,  except  small  circles  of  corpse 
like  pallor  around  the  lips  and  eyes.  Her  respiration  was  so  diffi- 
cult, that  frequently  she  gasped  to  recover  her  breath.    Sh« 


130  AFFECTING    SCENE. 

could  not  speak  audibly,  but  made  known  her  wants  in  whis- 
pers. I  felt  a  shudder  of  painful  horror  when  looking  upon 
her,  distorted  as  her  features  were  with  agonizing  suffering. 
Her  daughters,  three  interesting  girls  from  twelve  to  seventeen 
years,  gathered  around  me  with  anxious  and  inquiring  looks, 
watching  every  expression  of  my  countenance  while  I  was  ma- 
king the  examination. 

I  learned  from  her  husband,  that  some  two  or  three  weeks 
ago,  after  having  labored  hard  in  washing  during  a  hot  day 
exposed  to  the  sun,  she  had  imprudently  bathed  in  very  cold 
water.  The  consequence  was,  a  severe  cold  with  a  high  fever. 
The  affection  had  increased,  until  she  had  been  brought  to  the 
condition  in  which  I  saw  her.  Calomel  and  other  medicines 
had  been  administered  in  large  quantities  without  any  bene- 
ficial result.  She  continued  to  get  worse  every  day.  The  wo- 
man was  fearfully  attacked  with  pneumonia,  and  the  violence  of 
the  disease,  with  the  exhausting  medicines  she  had  taken,  had  re- 
duced her  to  a  state  of  helpless  feebleness.  She  begged  me 
in  whispers  to  give  her  something  to  relieve  the  pressure  upon. 
her  lungs,  and  restore  her  breathing.  Poor  woman  !  I  thought 
her  breathing  hours  were  nearly  over ! 

The  daughters,  with  anxiety  and  grief  depicted  upon  their 
countenances,  questioned  me :  "  Do  you  think  she  is  better  ?" 
"  Do  you  think  she  will  get  well  ?"  "  Wliat  will  you  give 
her  ?"  I  shook  my  head,  and  told  them  that  there  was  hope 
while  there  was  life,  but  that  they  alone  could  save  their  mo- 
ther. They  regarded  me  with  an  expression  of  hopeless  sor- 
row and  disappointment.  I  then  explained  to  them,  that  any 
medicines  which  I  possessed,  would  only  aggiavate  the  disease 
and  lender  her  more  feeble  than  she  now  was ;  tluit  they  must 
make  warm  teas  and  prevail  upon  her  to  drink  them  in  large 
quantities  every  hour  in  the  day,  and  with  this  treatment  and 
good  nursing,  it  was  possible  for  her  to  lecover.  With  this  ad- 
vice I  left  them,  fully  persuaded  that  the  woman  would  n*^ 
live  twenty-four  hours.  But  I  iiave  since  learned  that  my  ad- 
vice was  followed,  and  that  the  patient  recovered  and  is  now  a 
healthy  woman. 


TRAVELLERS OXEN    AND    WOLVES.  131 

Proceeding  on  our  journey,  we  crossed  in  the  course  of  the 
afternoon  two  small  creeks,  near  'one  of  whioh  we  encamped 
about  5  o'clock,  p.  m.,  for  the  day.  Two  or  three  miles  before 
we  halted,  we  passed  the  camp  of  a  party  of  four  men  return- 
ing to  the  United  States  from  California.     They  were  Messrs. 

Sublette,  TapUn,  Reddick,  and  .     Messrs.   Taplin  and 

Reddick  had  been  members  of  Captain  Fremont's  exploring 
party.  They  left  California  with  a  party  with  which  they  trav- 
elled as  far  as  Fort  Hall,  and  from  thence  have  proceeded  on 
by  themselves,  expecting,  as  I  understood,  to  fall  in  at  Fort 
Laramie  with  some  party  of  traders  bound  to  the  frontier 
towns  of  Missouri.  Mr.  Reddick  is  a  nephew  of  an  old  friend 
and  neighbor  of  mine,  Charles  Carr,  Esq.,  of  Fayette  county, 
Kentucky,  and  had  been  absent  from  his  friends  two  years. 

A  number  of  buffaloes  were  seen  at  a  distance  of  a  mile  or 
two  from  the  trail,  just  before  we  encamped,  and  a  member  of 
this  party  was  in  full  chase  of  one  of  them.  I  watched  the 
chase  with  interest  and  no  small  degree  of  excitement,  until 
man,  horse,  and  buffalo  disappeared  in  one  of  the  ravines  of 
the  plain.  Ei-own,  discovering  that  a  buffalo  had  run  into  the 
willows  bordering  the  stream  upon  which  we  encamped,  started 
towards  the  place  on  his  mule.  Leaving  his  mule  on  the  plain, 
he  succeeded  in  approaching  and  kilHng  the  buffalo  at  a  single 
shot.  This,  to  us,  important  feat,  being  performed,  (for  we 
were  much  in  want  of  fresh  meat,)  he  remounted  his  mule  and 
rode  into  camp  swinging  his  cap  and  shouting  with  exultation. 
Two  pack-mules  were  soon  saddled,  and  a  party  went  out  t'c 
slaughter  the  fallen  animal  and  bring  in  the  meat.  The  animal 
was  a  cow,  and  although  not  fat,  the  flesh  was  tender  and 
juicy,  and  we  had  a  sumptuous  supper. 

The  lawn  surrounded  by  willows,  upon  which  we  are  encamp- 
ed, is  ornamented  with  the  lupin  and  its  blue  blossoms,  and  sev- 
eral other  more  brilliantly -colored  flowers.  We  have  passed 
to-day  som.e  eight  or  ten  dead  oxen  which  belonged  to  emigrant 
companies  in  advance  of  us.  Oxen,  when  foot-sore  or  exhaustec. 
D}'  fa  jgue,  are  left  by  the  emigrants,  and  immediately  become 
the  victims  of  tlie  wolves,  who  give  them  no  rest  until  the) 


132  SOUTH    PASS. 

fall.  I  have  sometimes  traced  an  ox  pursued  by  wolves  along 
the  trail  for  ten  or  twenty  miles,  and  noticed  the  places  where 
he  would  turn  and  give  battle  to  his  remorseless  pursuers.  The 
result  in  every  instance  was,  that  I  foimd  the  dead  carcass  or 
the  skeleton  of  the  ox,  upon  which  the  wolves  and  ravens  had 
been  feasting.  Domesticated  animals,  unprotected,  cannot  resist 
the  persevering  attacks  of  the  wolves,  urged  on  as  they  are  by 
their  appetites,  and  conducting  their  warfare  with  all  the  skill 
of  instinct,  sharpened  often  by  famine.  The  deer  and  antelope 
are  compelled  frequently  to  shelter  themselves  from  the  attacks 
of  these  animals,  under  the  strong  protection  of  the  buffaloes, 
and  you  sometimes  see  herds  of  buffaloes  and  antelopes  mingled 
and  grazing  together.     Distance  25  miles. 

July  12. — Lea^-ing  our  encampment,  in  a  few  miles  we  crossed 
.another  small  stream,  about  four  miles  from  which  we  again 
struck  and  crossed  the  main  Sweetwater  river,  and  left  it  finally, 
making  om*  way  up  a  very  gentle  ascent  to  the  South  Pass  of 
THE  Rocky  Mountains,  or  the  di\'iding  ridge  separating  the 
waters  of  the  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific.  The  ascent  to  the  Pass 
is  so  gradual,  that  but  for  our  geographical  knowledge  and  the 
imposing  landmarks  on  our  right,  (the  snow-capped  peaks  of 
the  Wind  River  Mountains  raising  their  cold,  spii-al,  and  barren 
smnmits  to  a  great  elevati9n,)  we  shoxild  not  have  been  con- 
scious that  we  had  ascended  to,  and  were  standing  upon  the 
simimit  of  the  Rocky  Mountains — the  backbone,  to  use  a  forcible 
figure,  of  the  North  American  Continent. 

There  is,  I  believe,  considerable  misconception  in  regard  tc 
the  South  Pass  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  general  supposi- 
tion is,  that  it  is  a  difficult  and  narrow  passage  by  steep  ascent 
and  descent,  between  elevated  mountain-peak-i.  This  conjectm-e 
is  very  far  from  the  fact.  The  gap  in  the  mountain  is  many 
miles  in  breadth,  and  as  will  have  been  seen  from  tlie  daily  de- 
scription of  our  marches,  the  asceii'<  up  the  Platte  and  Sweet- 
watei-  lias  been  so  gradual,  that  although  the  elevation  of  the  Pass 
tibove  the  sea  is,  according  to  some  observations,  between  seven 
and  eight,  and  others,  nine  and  ten  thousand  feet,  j-et  from  the 
■urface  we  have  travelled  over,  we  have  been  scarcely  o.onsciou* 


LAST  VIEW  OF  THE  ATLANTIC  SLOPE.  133 

of  rising  to  the  summit  of  a  higli  ridge  of  mountains.  The 
temperature  has  given  us  the  sti'ongest  admonitions  of  our  posi- 
tion. The  Pass,  where  the  emigrant  trail  crosses  it,  is  in  latitude 
about  42^°  north  and  longitude  31^°  west  from  "Washington 
City.  The  wagon  trail,  after  we  reach  the  summit,  passes  two  or 
three  miles  over  a  level  surface,  between  low  sloping  elevations 
composed  of  sand  and  clay,  and  covered  with  a  vegetation  now 
brown  and  dead,  when  it  descends  by  a  gentle  declivity  to  a 
spring  known  to  emigrants  as  the  "  Pacific  Spring,"  the  water 
from  which  flows  into  the  Colorado  River  of  the  West,  and  is 
emptied  into  the  Gulf  of  California.  The  upper  waters  of  the 
Colorado  of  the  West,  are  known  to  travellers  and  trappers  in 
the  mountains  as  Green  River,  The  stream  assiunes  the  name 
of  Colorado,  (or  Red,)  fai'ther  down  towards  the  Pacific.  The 
distance  from  Fort  Laramie,  by  the  route  which  we  travelled, 
to  the  "  Pacific  Spring,"  according  to  our  estimate,  is  three 
hundred  and  eleven  miles.  It  is  stated  at  twenty  miles  less  by 
some  travellers.  According  to  this  estimate  the  distance  from. 
Independence  to  the  "  Pacific  Spring,"  two  miles  west  of  the 
South  Pass,  is  nine  hundred  and  eighty -three  miles. 

The  health  of  Col.  Russell  being  very  feeble,  we  encamped 
for  the  day  as  soon  as  we  reached  the  spring  on  the  west  side 
of  the  Pass.  The  water  of  the  spring  is  very  cold,  and  the 
grass  surrounding  it  has  been  much  fed  down  by  the  emigrant 
parties  which  have  preceded  us.  We  found  here  a  solitary 
emigrant  wagon,  and  its  proprietor,  wife,  and  two  or  three  chil- 
dren. From  his  own  account,  he  had  had  a  difference  with  the 
company  in  which  he  had  been  travelling,  and  this  morning  he 
had  deteiTnined  to  separate  from  his  former  fellow-travellers, 
and  unite  himself  to  some  of  the  rear  companies  when  they 
came  up. 

Just  before  sunset,  accompanied  by  Jacob,  I  ascended  one  of 
the  highest  elevations  near  om-  camp  ;  and  we  took  a  farewell 
look  of  the  scenery  towards  the  Atlantic.  The  sun  went  down 
in  splendor  behind  the  horizon  of  the  plain,  which  stretches  its 
Lmmeasm-able  and  sterile  surface  to  the  west  as  far  as  the  eye 
can  reach.     The  Wind  River  Mountains  lift  their  tower-shaped 

12 


134  DESOLATE  PROSPECT. 

and  hoary  pinnacles  to  the  north.  To  the  east  we  can  see  only 
the  tops  of  some  of  the  highest  mountain  elevations.  The  scene 
b  one  of  subhme  and  solemn  solitude  and  desolation.  The 
resolution  almost  faints  when  contemplating  the  extent  of  the 
journey  we  have  already  accomphshed,  and  estimate  the  groimd 
which  is  yet  to  be  travelled  over  before  we  reach  our  final 
destination  on  the  shore  of  the  Pacific.  Ilhmitable  almost  as 
the  prospect  seems  to  the  eye,  the  ^ision  can  penetrate  to  the 
distance  of  a  few  marches  only  on  our  toilsome  journey  through 
the  barren  and  inhospitable  wilderness.  To  the  left  of  the 
"  Pacific  Spring,"  at  a  distance  of  eight  or  ten  miles,  there  is  a 
spiral  elevation,  resembhng  a  Gothic  artificial  structure.  This 
I  named  "  Jacob's  Tower."     Distance  20  miles. 

July  13. — Our  route  to-day  has  been  over  an  arid  undula- 
tmg  plain,  in  a  west-by-north  coui'se.  The  plain,  where  any 
vegetation  exhibits  itself,  is  covered  with  wild  sage,  with  a  few 
occasional  blades  of  dead  bunch-grass  between  the  sage-hillocks. 

Far  in  front,  rising  sohtary  from  the  face  of  the  plain,  are 
elevated  huttes,  of  singular  configuration.  The  plain  appears  at 
some  geological  era  to  have  been  submerged,  Avith  the  excep- 
tion of  these  huttes,  which  then  were  islands,  overlooking  the 
vast  expanse  of  water.  Some  of  these  huttes,  far  to  the  north- 
west, present  castellated  shapes.  Others  resemble  vast  structures, 
surmounted  by  domes.  As  we  approached  "  Little  Sandy  rivei'," 
an  affluent  of  Green  river,  we  came  in  view  of  a  plain  of  white 
sand  or  clay,  stretching  to  the  southeast  a  vast  distance.  We 
crossed  the  deep  channels  of  two  streams,  about  midway  of  our 
day's  march ;  but  the  waters  which  flowed  through  them 
during  the  melting  of  the  snows  on  the  mountains,  were  ab- 
sorbed by  the  sands,  and  unseen.  Their  beds  were  dry  as 
ashes. 

We  encamped  on  Little  Sandy  about  three  o'clock  p.  m., 
among  the  small  willows  along  its  margin.  The  stream,  at  this 
season,  has  a  sliullow,  limpid  current,  ruiming  over  a  bed  ol 
yellowish  sand  and  gravel,  through  a  channel  about  fifteen  or 
twenty  feet  in  breadth.  The  grass  among  the  willows  is  suflS- 
cient  for  our  animals.      The  mosquitoes  manifest  an  almost 


MEXICANS    AND   MOSQUITOES.  luc 

invincible  cov.rage  and  ferocity.  We  were  obliged  to  picket 
our  mules  and  light  fires,  made  of  the  wild  sage,  around  and 
among  them,  for  their  protection  against  the  attacks  of  these 
insects.  An  antelope  and  sage-hen  were  killed  during  our 
march  to-day.  The  hen  was  the  mother  of  a  large  brood  of 
chickens.  The  mother  and  protector  of  this  family  was  killed 
by  the  rifle-ball ;  but  the  children  escaped  by  hiding  in  the 
sage. 

The  mirage  has  deceived  us  several  times  during  the  day's 
march.  When  thirstng  for  water,  we  could  see,  sometimes  to 
the  right,  sometimes  to  the  left,  and  at  others  in  front,  represen- 
tations of  lakes  and  streams  of  nmning  water,  bordered  by 
waving  timber,  from  which  a  quivering  evaporation  was  ascend- 
ing and  mingling  with  the  atmosphere.  But  as  we  advanced, 
they  would  recede  or  fade  away  entirely,  leaving  nothing  but  a 
barren  and  arid  desert.  The  lupin  is  blooming  on  our  camp- 
ground.    Distance  28  miles. 

July  14. — The  mosquitoes,  with  an  untiring  perseverance,  and 
a  chivalry  and  courage  equalling  if  not  surpassing  the  valor  of 
the  hosts  which  met  and  fought  our  generals  and  armies  in 
Mexico,  distm-bed  our  repose  and  kept  us  awake  nearly  the 
whole  night.  Although  frequently  defeated  by  fire  if  not  by 
sword,  still  they  remained  unconquered,  and  would  listen  to  no 
propositions  of  peace.  We  determined,  therefore,  early  this  morn- 
ing, to  adopt  a  "  masterly  activity,"  and  the  "  line  of  march" 
policy,  leaving  them  in  fidl  possession  of  the  territory  which 
they  claimed,  and  which  they  are  welcome  from  me  to  hold  to 
the  end  of  time. 

Our  route  this  morning  was  across  the  plain  some  ten  or 
twelve  miles,  when  we  struck  the  Big  Sandy  river,  another 
affluent  of  the  Green,  or  Colorado.  The  emigrant  trail  known 
as  "  Greenwood's  Cut-off,"  leaves  the  old  trail  via  Fort  Bridget 
to  Fort  Hall  at  this  point.  It  is  said  to  shorten  the  distance  on 
the  Fort  Hall  route  to  Oregon  and  Cahfornia  some  fifty  or  sixty 
miles.  The  objection  to  the  route  is,  that  from  Big  Sandy  tc 
Green  river,  a  distance  of  forty-five  or  fifty  miles,  there  is  no 
water.     We  nooned  on  the  Big  Sandy,  imder  a  high  bluflF,  down 


136  SNAKE  INDIAN  HUNTING  PARTY. 

which  we  descended  to  the  water ;  but  there  was  no  grass  for 
our  mules.  A  curious  incident  occurred  here.  Colonel  Russell, 
who  has  been  suffering  from  disease  for  several  days,  when  we 
dismoimted  to  noon,  was  placed  imder  the  shade  of  a  clump  of 
small  willows  on  the  bank  of  the  stream.  In  his  unquiet  state, 
produced  by  a  periodical  fever,  he  threw  his  hands  around  him 
on  the  grass,  whereon  his  blanket  had  been  spread.  In  doing 
this  he  accidentally  grasped  something  which  had  a  metalhc 
feel,  that  upon  examination  proved  to  be  a  pair  of  silver-moimted 
spectacles.  There  were  no  signs  of  any  encampment  at  this 
place  duruig  the  present  year.  Who  could  have  left  or  lost 
these  spectacles,  so  singularly  recovered  ? 

During  our  afternoon's  march  we  fell  in  with  a  party  of  some 
sixty  or  eighty  Soshonee  or  Snake  Indians,  who  were  returning 
from  a  buffalo-hunt  to  the  east  of  the  South  Pass.  The  chiefs 
and  active  hunters  of  the  party  were  riding  good  horses.  The 
others,  among  whom  were  some  women,  were  mounted  generally 
upon  animals  that  appeared  to  have  been  nearly  exhausted  by 
fatigue.  These,  besides  carrying  their  riders,  were  freighted 
with  dried  buffalo-meat,  suspended  in  equal  divisions  of  weight 
and  bulk  from  straps  across  the  back.  Several  pack-animals 
were  loaded  entirely  with  meat,  and  were  driven  along  as  we 
drive  our  pack-mules. 

They  struck  the  wagon-trail  a  short  distance  only  before  we 
came  in  sight  of  them,  and  their  advance  party,  consisting  ot 
some  six  or  eight,  were  the  first  we  saw  and  the  first  who  dis 
covered  us.  They  appeared  to  manifest  some  uncertainty  and 
irrcsokition  when  they  saw  us  pursuing  them ;  but  they  finally 
halted  in  the  trail  and  waited  for  us  to  come  up.  We  held  out 
our  hands  in  token  of  friendship,  and  they  did  tlie  same,  giving 
a  most  cordial  sliake,  whicli  ceremony  with  Indians  is  not  usually 
expressive  of  a  higli  degree  of  warmth  or  gratification.  It  is  one 
of  the  signs  between  the  whites  and  tliemselves  which  they  have 
learned  from  the  former,  and  they  make  use  of  it  without  fully 
understanding  its  significance,  as  I  believe.  But  these  Snakes 
Boomed  truly  glad  to  see  us,  and  really  friendly.  Whether  these 
munifestations  prepossessed  me  unduly  in  tlu;ir  f,i\(>  •  1  cannol 


SNAKE  PRINCESS  131 

say,  but  I  was  much  pleased  by  tlieir  civil  deportment,  and  the 
kind  and  amiable  expression  of  thei  coimtenances. 

Oiu-  conversation,  of  course,  was  carried  on  altogether  in  signs, 
except  a  few  words  and  names  of  things  which  the  Snakes  them- 
selves had  acquired  from  the  English  and  American  traders  and 
trappers  at  the  posts  of  the  fur  companies.  The  Sioux,  in  the 
Snake  language,  when  translated  into  ours,  are  called  "cut- 
throats," and  the  sign  for  their  name  is  a  motion  with  the  hand 
across  the  throat.  We  conveyed  to  them  all  the  information 
we  had,  in  the  best  manner  we  could,  in  regard  to  the  warlike 
movements  of  the  Sioux.  They  appeared  to  comprehend  us ; 
and  I  noticed  that  a  party  of  four  or  five,  mounted  on  good 
horses,  started  off  in  advance  of  the  others  at  a  great  speed. 
The  rear  of  the  hunting  party  continued  to  overtake  us  as  we 
moved  slowly  along,  and  several  of  them  when  they  came  up 
to  shake  hands,  said,  "  Hew  do  ?"  and  asked  for  "  tobac."  I 
had  a  pound  or  two  of  tobacco  in  a  small  bag  suspended  from 
my  saddle,  which  I  distributed  among  them,  and  it  appeared  to 
give  them  great  satisfaction.  They  made  signs  inquiiing  if  we 
had  whiskey,  by  forming  their  hands  into  a  cup -shape,  putting 
them  to  their  mouths,  and  throwing  their  heads  back,  as  if  in 
the  act  of  drinking  a  long  and  refreshing  draught.  I  shook  my 
head,  in  token  that  we  had  none. 

Among  the  party  I  noticed  a  very  beautiful  young  female^ 
uhe  daughter  of  one  of  the  chiefs  of  the  party,  who  sat  upon 
her  horse  with  the  ease  and  grace  almost  of  a  fairy.  She  was 
clothed  in  a  buckskin-shirt,  pantaloons,  and  moccasins,  with 
some  really  tasteful  ornaments  suspended  around  her  neck  and 
delicate  waist  It  will  be  a  lono-  time  before  I  forget  the  cheer- 
fu]  and  attractive  countenance,  graceful  figure,  and  \'ivacity  of 
feature  and  language  of  this  untutored  child  of  nature. 

The  Soshonees  or  Snakes  occupy  the  country  immediately 
west  of  the  South  Pass  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  ;  and  their 
principal  places  of  trading  are  Fort  Hall,  a  post  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  and  Fort  Bridger,  the  estabhshment  of  an  indi- 
vidual trader.  There  are  other  white  traders  among  them, 
?fhc,  having  intermarried  with  the  Indians,  change  their  posi- 

12* 


188  GREEN  RIVER 

tions  acfording  to  circumstances.  They  art;  one  of  the  mos 
powerfiil  tribes  of  Indians  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and 
have  hitherto  on  all  occasions  manifested  a  most  friendly  dispo- 
sition towards  the  emigrants  passing  through  their  territory. 
Many  of  the  men  we  saw  were  finely  formed  for  strength  and 
agility,  with  countenances  expressive  of  courage  and  humanity. 
They  evinced  fine  horsemanship,  and  a  skilful  use  of  the  bow 
and  an'ow,  their  principal  weapon  in  hunting  and  war.  I  do 
not  know  that  the  United  States  government  has  made  treaties 
with  the  Snakes.  The  Indians  rode  along  with  us  to  our  place 
of  encampment  for  the  day. 

We  encamped  oft  the  bank  of  the  Big  Sandy,  in  a  handsome 
bottom  formed  by  a  bend  of  the  river.  The  general  aspect  of 
the  country  through  which  we  have  passed  to-day  is  much  the 
same  as  yesterday.  The  table-land  of  tlie  plain  produces  little 
vegetation  except  the  wild-sage,  and  this  is  stimted  and  seems 
to  be  dying  from  drought  or  the  poverty  of  the  soU.  On  the 
narrow  bottoms  of  the  river  there  is  grass  ;  and  immediately  on 
its  banks  there  are  clumps  or  thickets  of  small  willows,  from 
half  an  inch  to  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  from  five  to  ten  feet  in 
height.  The  lupin  is  in  bloom  around  our  camp.  Distancf 
30  miles. 


CHAPTER    X. 

Green  River — Terrific  storm — Desoiato  scenery — Black's  Fork — Rainbc ■' 
bluflTs — Remarkable  butle — Arrival  at.  Fort  Bridger — Messi's.  Hasting* 
and  Hiulspctli — Traders  and  trappors  from  Taos — Capt.  Walker — Cali- 
fornian  liorsos — Snow  sliowtirs  on  tho  niouutains — Resume  our  march  by 
the  new  route  via  the  Great  Salt  Lake — Cold  vvoathor — Ice  in  July- 
Bear  River — Difficult  passage  through  the  mountains — Elephant  statue 

Jui>v  1/5. — About  eight  miles  from  our  last  encampment  we 
struck  and  forded  Green  river,  the  head  of  the  Colorado  or  Red 
River  of  the  West,  which  empties  into  the  Gulf  of  California. 


ORBEN   RIVER TREMENDOUS    STORM  139 

The  river  at  the  ford  is  between  fifty  and  one  hundred  yards 
in  breadth,  and  the  water  in  the  channel  is  about  two  and  a 
half  feet  in  depth.  The  bed  of  the  channel  is  composed  of 
small  round  stones.  The  stream  runs  with  a  clear  rapid  cm*- 
rent.  Cotton- wood  and  small  willows  border  its  banks  as  far 
as  we  travelled  upon  it.  These,  with  some  green  islands,  afford 
an  agreeable  and  picturesque  contrast  to  the  brown  scenery  of 
liill  and  plain  on  either  side.  Continuing  down  the  river  we 
halted  at  noon  to  rest  our  animals  under  the  shade  of  some 
large  cotton-wood  trees.  There  was  but  little  grass  around  us. 
A  dark  cloud,  across  which  there  were  incessant  flashfis  of 
lightning,  rose  in  the  west  soon  after  we  halted. 

At  half-past  two  o'clock,  p.  m.,  resuming  ovir  march  w** 
travelled  about  two  miles  farther  down  the  stream,  and  left  it 
near  a  point  where  I  saw  the  ruins  of  several  log-cabins,  which 
I  have  since  learned  were  erected  some  years  ago  by  traders 
and  trappers,  and  have  subsequently  been  deserted.  The  trail 
liere  makes  a  right  angle  and  ascends  over  the  bluffs  bordering 
the  valley  of  the  stream,  in  nearly  a  west  course.  We  had 
scarcely  mounted  the  bluffs  when  we  were  saluted  by  a  storm 
of  rain,  lightning,  thunder,  and  wind,  which  raged  with  terrific 
fury  and  violence  over  the  broken  and  dreary  plain,  for  several 
hours. 

It  is  scarcely  possible  to  conceive  a  scene  of  more  forbidding 
dreariness  and  desolation  than  was  presented  to  our  view  on  all 
sides.  Precipitous  and  impending  cliff's  of  rock  and  concrete  sand 
and  clay,  deep  rapines  and  chasms  plowed  out  by  the  torrents 
of  water  or  by  the  fierce  tornadoes  which  rage  with  unre- 
strained force  and  fury  over  this  desert,  with  a  few  straggling 
and  stunted  sage-shrubs  struggling  for  an  existence  in  the 
sandy  and  gravelly  soil,  were  the  prominent  objects  that  saluted 
our  vision.  Far  to  the  left  of  us,  the  Utah  moimtains  lift  their 
summits  covered  with  perpetual  snows,  presenting  to  the  eye  a 
wintry  scene  in  the  middle  of  July. 

Wliile  travelling  onward  at  a  slow  pace,  being  some  hundred 
yards  in  advance  of  the  main  part}",  (the  storm  having  in  some 
degree  subsided,)  with   skins  thoroughly  Viret  and  in  no  very 


140  RAINBOW    BLUFFS. 

cheerful  mood,  one  of  the  party  behind  s  ,ruck  up  in  a  sonoroxu 
voice  the  serio-comic  elegy  of  "  Lord  Lovell  and  Lady  Nancy.'' 
Shouts  of  merry  hiughter  succeeded  the  rehearsal  of  each  stanza, 
and  the  whole  party,  from  being  in  a  most  gloomy  and  savage 
state  of  mmd,  were  restored  to  the  best  possible  humor.  The 
strong  contrast  between  the  sublime  which  they  had  seen  and 
felt,  and  the  ridiculous  which  they  heard,  operated  upon  them 
something  like  a  shock  of  galvanism  on  a  dead  body. 

Just  before  simset,  we  reached  the  summit  of  the  ridge  be- 
tween Green  river  and  Black's  Fork,  a  tributary  of  the  former. 
From  this,  at  a  distance  of  six  or  eight  miles,  we  could  see 
the  last-named  stream,  and  the  smoke  rising  from  the  fires  of 
an  emigrant  encampment.  We  reached  Black's  Fork  of  Green 
river,  and  encamped  upon  it  some  time  after  dark.  There 
was  no  wood  except  some  small  green  willows  which  resisted 
ignition ;  and  weary  and  wet,  we  soon  made  our  beds  and  fell 
asleep.     Distance  35  miles. 

July  16. — Black's  Fork  is  a  stream  varying  in  width  from 
fifty  to  one  hundred  feet.  Its  waters  are  limpid  and  cold. 
The  trail  crosses  this  stream  several  times  during  the  day's 
march,  leaving  it  as  often  to  cut  ofl"  the  bends,  and  returning  to 
it  again.  The  scenery  along  our  route  to-day  has  been  inter- 
esting, although  the  soil  of  the  country  for  the  most  part  is 
frightfulh  sterile. 

The  bluffs,  assuming  the  forms  and  elevation  of  huttes,  which 
border  the  valley  of  the  stream  through  which  we  are  travel- 
ling, are  composed  of  soft  sandstone  and  a  concrete  combina- 
tion of  siind  and  clay.  Their  perpendicular  walls  are  colored 
with  nearly  all  the  hues  of  the  rainbow,  in  stratified  lines.  Red; 
green,  blue,  yellow,  and  purple  are  distinctly  represented 
These  bluffs  are  worn  by  the  action  of  water  and  wind  into 
almost  every  conceivable  shape.  A  very  remarkable  isolated 
elevation  or  c/utte,  rises  abruptlv  from  the  flat  surface  of  the 
j;lain,  about  cigliteen  miles  from  our  last  encampment.  Its 
sjiape  is  irregularly  oval.  It  is  about  two  or  three  miles  in  cir- 
cumference, and  its  extreme  hi-iglit  is  probably  five  hundred 
feet  alxne  the  level  of  the  plain.     In  general  shape  and  orna" 


NATURAL   TEMPLE.  141 

meat  it  present':  the  appearance  of  a  magnificent  structiire 
erected  by  human  labor,  but  crumbling  into  ruins.  Surround- 
ing it  there  are  a  multitude  of  columns  of  unknown  architectural 
orders,  (orders  of  natui'e,)  and  grotesque  figures  in  statuary, 
and  carraigs  in  alto  and  hasso  relievo.  Some  of  these  would  be 
substitutes  for  the  sphynxes  of  Egyptian  architecture  ;  others 
for  caryatides,  etc.,  etc.  But  it  is  useless  to  multiply  similitudes, 
for  there  is  scarcely  a  prominent  animal  figui'e  in  natui-e,  or  a 
distorted  and  unnatural  shape  conceived  by  man  for  architectu- 
ral ornament,  that  has  not  some  feature  represented  here,  scxUp- 
tured  and  carved  upon  the  soft  rock  by  the  winds  and  the 
rains.  A  well-defined  cornice  suiTounds  the  western  and 
southern  sides  of  this  temple  of  nature,  and  its  roof  is  sur- 
mounted by  three  immense  domes,  in  comparison  with  which 
those  of  the  Capitol,  St.  Peter's,  and  St.  Sophia  are  toys.  A 
few  miles  beyond  this,  there  is  a  labyrinth  of  columns  formed 
in  the  bluffs  by  the  action  of  water  and  wind,  through  whict 
when  you  enter  it,  the  voice  and  sound  of  footsteps  are  echoed 
and  re-echoed  a  long  distance. 

The  mirage  displayed  here  its  illusory  invitations  with  great 
distinctness.  The  presentations  of  this  phenomenon  were  not, 
however,  different  from  those  previously  noticed.  Just  before 
simset,  we  once  more  struck  the  stream  on  which  we  were  trav- 
elling, and  had  a  \aew  of  the  landmarks  which,  we  supposed, 
were  near  Fort  Bndger.  The  trail  at  this  point  diverged  again 
from  the  stream,  and  we  travelled  over  a  barren  plain,  Avith  no 
vegetation  upon  it  except  the  wild  sage.  We  were  overtaken  by 
darkness  some  miles  before  reaching  our  destination  for  the  day. 
The  trail  was  lost  by  my  mule,  upon  the  natural  instinct  of 
which  I  relied  more  than  upon  myself,  in  the  dark.  We  pro- 
ceeded onward,  and  finally  saw  the  faint  light  of  camp-fires, 
apparently  very  near,  but  really  at  a  long  distance.  Striking  in 
a  direct  line  for  them,  we  met  many  obstacles  and  obstructions, 
some  of  which  were  imaginary,  others  real.  We  were  at  last 
successful  in  crossing,  in  the  dark,  a  ravine,  bordered  on  each 
Bide  by  timber,  and  entering  upon  the  bottom  of  grass  wlierc 
the  lights  appeared  that  we  had  so  intently  watched. 


l48  FORT    BRIDGER. 

Proceeding  on»  "ws  readied  the  encampment  of  Mr.  Hastinga 
about  eleven  o'clock  at  night.  A  shower  of  rain,  which  fell 
during  the  afternoon,  had  wet  us  to  our  skins,  and  shivering 
with  the  dampness  and  cool  temperature,  we  let  our  mules 
loose,  and  gathered  around  a  miserable  fire,  the  fuel  of  which 
was  composed  of  small,  green  willows.     Distance  40  mUes. 

July  17. — We  determined  to  encamp  here  two  or  three  days, 
for  the  purpose  of  recruiting  our  animals,  which,  being  heavily 
packed,  manifest  strong  signs  of  fatigue.  We  pitched  our  tent, 
for  the  first  time  since  we  left  Fort  Laramie,  near  the  camp  of 
Messrs.  Hastings  and  Hudspeth.  These  gentlemen  left  the  set- 
jlements  of  Cahfomia  the  last  of  April,  and  travelling  over  the 
snows  of  the  Sierra,  and  swimming  the  swollen  water-courses 
on  either  side,  reached  this  ncinity  some  two  weeks  since,  hav- 
nig  explored  a  new  route,  via  the  south  end  of  the  great  Salt 
Lake,  by  which  they  suppose  the  distance  to  Cahfomia  is  short- 
ened from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred  miles.  My 
impressions  are  unfavorable  to  the  route,  especially  for  wagons 
and  families ;  but  a  number  of  the  emigrant  parties  now  en- 
camped here  have  determined  to  adopt  it,  with  Messrs.  Hastings 
and  Hudspeth  as  their  guides ;  and  are  now  waiting  for  some  of 
the  rear  parties  to  come  up  and  join  them. 

"  Fort  Bridger,"  as  it  is  called,  is  a  small  trading-post,  estab- 
lished and  now  occupied  by  Messrs.  Bridger  and  Vasquez. 
The  buildings  are  two  or  three  miserable  log-cabins,  rudely 
constructed,  and  bearing  but  a  faint  resemblance  to  habitable 
houses.  Its  position  is  in  a  handsome  and  fertile  bottom  of  the 
small  stream  on  which  we  are  encamped,  about  two  mUes  south 
of  tlie  point  Avhere  the  old  wagon  trail,  via  Fort  Hall,  makes  an 
angle,  and  takes  a  northwesterly  course.  The  bottom  produces 
tlie  finest  qualities  of  grass,  and  in  great  abundance.  The  water 
of  the  stream  is  cold  and  pure,  and  abounds  in  spotted  moun- 
tain trout,  and  a  variety  of  other  small  fish.  Clumps  of  cotton- 
wood  trees  are  scattered  through  the  valley,  and  along  the 
hanks  of  the  stream.  Fort  Bridger  is  distant  from  the  Pacific 
Rpring,  by  our  estimate,  1,?3  miles. 

About  five  hundred   Snake  Indians  wen;  encamped  nep.r  the 


CAPT.  WALKER— CALIFORNIAN  H0R8B8.  143 

trading-post  this  morning,  but  on  hearing  the  news  respecting 
the  movements  of  the  Sioux,  which  we  communicated  to  them, 
most  of  them  left  immediately,  for  the  purpose,  I  suppose,  of 
organizing  elsewhere  a  war-party  to  resist  the  threatened  inva- 
sion. There  are  a  number  of  traders  here  from  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Taos,  and  the  head-waters  of  the  Arkansas,  who  have 
brought  with  them  dressed  buckskins,  buckskin  shirts,  pantaloons, 
and  moccasins,  to  trade  with  tlie  emigrants.  The  emigrant 
trade  is  a  very  important  one  to  the  niountain  merchants  and 
trappers.  The  countenances  and  bearing  of  these  men,  who 
have  made  the  wilderness  their  home,  are  generally  expi-essive 
of  a  cool,  cautious,  but  determined  intrepidity.  In  a  trade,  they 
have  no  consciences,  taking  all  the  "advantages;"  but  in  a 
matter  of  hospitality  or  generosity  they  are  open-handed — ready, 
many  of  them,  to  divide  with  the  needy  what  they  possess. 

I  was  introduced  to-day  to  Captain  Walker,  of  Jackson 
county,  Missouri,  who  is  much  celebrated  for  his  explorations 
and  knowledge  of  the  North  American  continent,  between  the 
frontier  settlements  of  the  United  States  and  the  Pacific.  Cap- 
tain W.  is  now  on  his  return  from  the  settlements  of  California, 
having  been  out  with  Captain  Fremont  in  the  capacity  of 
guide  or  pilot.  He  is  driving  some  four  or  five  hundred  Cali- 
fornian  horses,  which  he  intends  to  dispose  of  in  the  United 
States.  They  appear  to  be  high-spirited  animals,  of  medium 
size,  handsome  figures,  and  in  good  condition.  It  is  possible 
that  the  trade  in  horses,  and  even  cattle,  between  California  and 
the  United  States  may,  at  no  distant  day,  become  of  considera- 
ble importance.  Captain  W.  communicated  to  me  some  facts  in 
reference  to  recent  occurrences  in  California,  of  considerable 
interest.  He  spoke  discouragingly  of  the  new  route  \'ia  the 
south  end  of  the  Salt  Lake. 

Several  emigrant  parties  have  anived  here  during  the  day, 
and  others  have  left,  taking  the  old  route,  ^aa  Fort  Hall. 
Another  cloud,  rising  from  behind  the  mountains  to  the  south, 
discharged  sufficient  rain  to  moisten  the  ground,  about  three 
o'clock,  r.  M.  After  the  rain  had  ceased  fallinir,  the  clouds 
broke  away,  some  of  them  sinking  below  and  others  rsing 


i44  HIGH  PRICE  OF  WHISKEY. 

above  the  summits  of  the  mountains,  which  were  glittering  in 
the  rays  of  the  sun  with  snowy  whiteness.  While  raining  in 
the  valley,  it  had  heen  snowing  on  the  mountains.  During 
the  shower  the  thermometer  fell,  m  fifteen  minutes,  from  82° 
to  44°. 

July  18. — ^We  determined,  this  morning,  to  take  the  ne\< 
route,  via  the  south  end  of  the  great  Salt  Lake.  Mr.  Hud- 
speth— who  with  a  small  party,  on  Monday,  will  start  in  advance 
of  the  emigrant  companies  which  intend  travelling  by  this 
route,  for  the  purpose  of  making  some  further  explorations — 
has  volunteered  to  guide  us  as  far  as  the  Salt  Plam,  a  day's 
journey  west  of  the  Lake,  Although  such  was  my  own  deter- 
mination, I  wrote  several  letters  to  my  friends  among  the  emi- 
grant parties  in  the  rear,  advising  them  not  to  take  this  route, 
but  to  keep  on  the  old  trail,  via  Fort  Hall.  Our  situation  was 
different  from  theirs.  We  were  mounted  on  mules,  had  no 
families,  and  could  afford  to  hazard  experiments,  and  make  ex- 
plorations. They  could  not.  During  the  day  I  \isited  several 
of  the  emigrant  corrals.  Many  of  the  trappers  and  himters 
now  collected  here  were  lounging  about,  making  small  trades 
for  sugar,  coffee,  flour,  and  whiskey.  I  heard  of  an  instance  of 
a  pint  of  miserable  whiskey  being  sold  for  a  pair  of  buckskin 
pantaloons,  valued  at  ten  dollars.  I  saw  two  dollars  in  money 
paid  for  half  a  pint. 

Several  Indians  visited  our  camp,  in  parties  of  three  or  four 
at  a  time.  An  old  man  and  two  boys  sat  down  near  the  door 
of  our  tent,  tliis  morning,  and  there  remained  without  speaking, 
but  watchful  of  every  movement,  for  three  or  four  hours.  When 
dinner  was  over,  we  gave  them  some  bread  and  meat,  and  they 
departed  without  uttering  a  word,  Messrs.  Curry  and  Holdc 
left  us  to-day,  having  determined  to  go  to  Oregon  instead  of 
California.  Circles  of  white-tented  wagons  may  now  be  seen 
in  every  direction,  and  the  smoke  from  the  camp-fires  is  curl- 
ing upwards,  morning,  noon,  and  evening.  An  immense  num- 
ber of  oxen  and  liorses  are  scattered  over  the  entire  valley, 
grazing  upon  the  green  grass.  Parties  of  Indians,  hunters,  and 
emigrants  are  galloping  to  and  fro,  and  the  scene  is  one  of 


JOURNEY  RESUMED.  145 

«lmost  holiday  liveliness.  It  is  difficult  to  realize  that  we  are  in. 
a  wilderness,  a  thousand  miles  from  ci\'ilization.  I  noticed  the 
lupin,  and  a  brilliant  scarlet  flower,  in  bloom, 

July  19. — Bill  Smith,  a  noted  mountain  character,  in  a  shoot- 
mg-match  burst  his  gun,  and  he  was  supposed  for  some  time  u 
be  dead.  He  recovered,  however,  and  the  first  words  he  uttered 
upon  returning  to  consciousness  were,  that  "  no  d — d  gun  could 
kill  him."  The  adventures,  hazards,  and  escapes  of  this  man. 
with  his  eccentricities  of  character,  as  they  were  related  to  me, 
would  make  an  amusing  volume.  I  ancrled  in  the  stream,  and 
caught  an  abundance  of  mountain  trout  and  other  small  fish. 
Another  shower  of  rain  fell  this  afternoon,  diu'ing  which  the 
temperature  was  that  of  a  raw  November  day. 

July  20. — We  resumed  our  march,  taking,  in  accordance 
with  our  previous  determination,  the  new  route  already  referred 
to.  Our  party  consisted  of  nine  persons.  Mr.  Hudspeth  and 
three  young  men  from  the  emigrant  parties,  will  accompany 
us  as  far  as  the  Salt  Plain. 

We  ascended  from  the  valley  in  which  Fort  Bridger  is  situa- 
ted, on  the  left  of  a  high  and  rather  remarkable  butte  which 
overlooks  the  fertile  bottom  from  the  west.  There  is  no 
trail,  and  we  are  guided  in  our  course  and  route  by  the  direc- 
tion in  which  the  Salt  Lake  is  known  to  lie.  The  face  of  the 
upland  country,  after  lea\ing  Fort  Bridger,  although  broken, 
presents  a  more  cheerful  aspect  than  the  scenery  we  have  been 
passing  through  for  several  days.  The  wild  sage  continues  to 
be  the  principal  growth,  but  we  have  marched  over  two  or  three 
smooth  plains  covered  with  good  grass.  The  sides  of  the  hills 
and  mountains  have  also  in  many  places  presented  a  bright 
green  herbage,  and  clumps  of  the  aspen  poplar  frequently  orna- 
ment the  hollows  near  the  bases  of  the  hills. 

We  crossed  a  large  and  fresh  Indian  trail,  made  probably  by 
the  Snakes.  Many  of  their  lodge-poles  were  scattered  along  it, 
and  occasionally  a  skin,  showing  that  they  were  travelhng  in 
great  haste.  As  usual  for  several  days  past,  a  cloud  rose  in  the 
southwest  about  three  I'clock,  p.  m.,  and  discharged  sufficient 
rain  to  wet  us.  The  ttmcsphere  during  the  shower  had  a 
18 


146  COLD  WEATHER— SPRING  FLOWERS 

wintry  feel.  On  the  high  mountains  in  sight  of  us  to  the  left,  we 
could  see,  after  the  clouds  broke  away,  that  it  had  been  snowing. 

We  reached  a  small  creek  or  branch  called  "  Little  Muddy" 
by  the  hunters,  where  we  encamped  between  four  and  five 
o'clock  Our  camp  is  in  a  handsome  little  valley  a  mile  or  more 
in  length  and  half  a  mile  in  breadth,  richly  carpeted  with  green 
grass  of  an  excellent  quality.  An  occasional  cotton-wood  tree, 
clumps  of  small  wUlows,  and  a  variety  of  other  shrubbery 
along  the  margin  of  the  stream,  assist  in  composing  an  agreeable 
landscape.  The  stream  is  very  small,  and  in  places  its  channel 
is  dry.  The  wild  geranium,  with  bright  pink  and  purpUsh 
flowers,  and  a  shrub  covered  with  brilliant  yellow  blossoms, 
enliven  the  scenery  around.  The  temperature  is  that  of  March 
or  AprD  and  winter  clothing  is  necessary  to  comfort.  Many  of 
the  small  early  spring  flowers  are  now  in  bloom,  among  which 
I  noticed  the  strawberry.  Large  numbers  of  antelopes  were 
seen.     Distance  15  miles. 

July  21. — Our  bufl'alo-robes  and  the  grass  of  the  valley 
were  white  with  frost.  Ice  of  the  thickness  of  window-glass, 
congealed  in  our  buckets,  Notwithstanding  this  coldness  of  the 
temperature,  we  experience  no  inconvenience  from  it,  and  the 
morning  air  is  delightfully  pleasant  and  in^^gorating.  Ascend- 
ing the  hills  on  the  western  side  of  ovir  camp,  and  passing  over 
a  narrow  ridge,  we  entered  another  grassy  valley,  which  we  fol- 
lowed up  in  a  southwest  course,  between  ranges  of  low  sloping 
hills,  three  or  four  miles.  Lea^^ng  the  valley  near  its  upper 
end,  or  whe'-e  the  ranges  of  hills  close  together,  we  ascended 
a  gradual  slope  to  the  summit  of  an  elevated  ridge,  the  descent 
on  the  western  side  of  which  is  abrupt  and  precipitous,  and  is 
covered  with  gnarled  and  stunted  cedars,  twisted  by  the  winds 
into  many  fantastic  shapes.  Descending  with  some  difilculty 
this  steep  mountain-side,  we  found  oiu-selves  in  a  naiTOw  hollow, 
enclosed  on  either  side  by  high  elevations,  the  bottom  of  which 
is  covered  with  rank  grass,  and  gay  with  the  bloom  of  the  wild 
geranium  ^nd  a  shrub  richly  ornamented  with  a  bright  yellow 
blossom.  The  hills  or  mountains  enclosing  this  hollow,  are  com- 
poeed  of  red  and  yellow  argillaceous  earth.     In  the  ■^vines  thert 


WINDINGS  A^D  TWISTINGS — BEAR  7  IVER.  147 

are   a  few  aspen  poplars  of  small  size,  and  higher  up  some 

dwarfish  cedars  bowed  by  winds  and  snows. 

Following  up  this  hollow  a  short  distance,  we  came  to  an  im- 
passable barrio-  of  red  sandstone,  rising  in  perpendicular  and 
impending  masses,  and  rimning  entirely  across  it.  Ascending 
with  great  difficulty  the  steep  and  high  elevation  on  our  right 
hand,  we  passed  over  an  elevated  plain  of  gradual  ascent, 
covered  with  wild  sage,  of  so  rank  and  dense  a  growth  that  we 
foimd  it  difficult  to  force  our  way  through  it.  This  ridge  over- 
looks another  deeper  and  broader  valley,  which  we  entered  and 
followed  in  a  southwest  course  two  or  three  miles,  when  the 
ranges  of  hills  close  nearly  together,  and  the  gorge  makes  a 
short  curve  or  angle,  taking  a  general  northwest  direction.  We 
continued  down  the  gorge  until  we  reached  Bear  river,  between 
9ne  and  two  o'clock,  p.  m. 

Bear  river,  where  we  struck  and  forded  it,  is  about  fifty 
yards  in  breadth,  with  a  rapid  current  of  limpid  water  foaming 
over  a  bed  so  unequal  and  rocky,  that  it  was  difficult,  if  not 
dangerous  to  the  limbs  of  our  mules,  when  fording  it.  The 
margin  of  the  stream  is  thinly  timbered  with  cotton-wood  and 
small  willows.  The  fertile  bottom,  as  we  proceeded  down  it, 
varying  in  width  from  a  mile  and  a  half  to  one-eighth  of  a  mile, 
is  well  covered  with  grasses  of  an  excellent  quality  ;  and  I 
noticed,  in  addition  to  the  wild  geranium,  and  several  other 
flowers  in  bloom,  the  wild  flax,  sometimes  covering  a  half  acre 
or  more  vrith  its  modest  blue  blossom.  Travelling  down  the 
stream  on  the  western  side,  in  a  course  nearly  north,  six  miles, 
we  encamped  on  its  margin  about  3  o'clock,  p.  m. 

The  country  through  which  we  have  passed  to-day,  has,  on 
the  whole,  presented  a  more  fertilized  aspect  than  any  we  have 
seen  for  several  hundred  miles.  Many  of  the  hill-sides,  and 
some  of  the  table-land  on  the  high  plains,  produce  grass  and 
other  green  vegetables.  Groves  of  small  aspen  poplars,  clumps 
of  hawthorn,  and  willows  surrounding  the  springs,  are  a  great 
relief  to  the  eye,  when  surA^eying  the  general  brownness  and 
sterility  of  the  landscape.  I  observed  strawberry-vines  among 
the  grass  in  the  hollows,  and  ;n  the  bottom  of  Bear  river ;  but 


148  COLD  WEATHER   IN  1HE  MOUNTAINS 

there  was  no  fruit  upon  them.  We  have  passed  the  skeletons  of 
several  buffaloes.  These  anunals  abounded  in  this  region  some 
thirty  years  ago ;  but  there  are  now  none  west  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains. 

Brown  shot  three  antelopes  near  oiu*  camp  this  afternoon. 
A  young  one,  which  was  fat  and  tender,  was  slaughtered  and 
brought  to  camp ;  the  others  were  so  lean  as  not  to  be  con- 
sidered eatable.  The  sage-hens,  or  the  grouse  of  the  sage-plains, 
with  their  broods  of  young  chickens,  have  been  frequently 
flushed,  and  several  shot.  The  yoimg  chickens  are  very  deli- 
cate ;  the  old  fowl  is  usually,  at  this  season,  lean  and  tough. 

McClary  has  been  quite  sick  with  a  fever  which  has  pre- 
vailed among  the  emigrants,  and  frequently  terminated  fatally. 
This  afternoon  he  was  scarcely  able  to  sit  upon  his  mule,  from 
weakness  and  giddiness.     Distance  25  miles. 

July  22. — Cold,  with  a  strong  wind  from  the  snowy  mountains 
to  the  southwest,  rendering  the  atmosphere  raw  and  uncom- 
fortable. We  rose  shivering  from  our  bivouacs,  and  our  mules 
picketed  around  were  shaking  with  the  cold.  McClary  was 
so  much  relieved  from  his  sickness,  that  he  considered  himself 
able  to  traA'el,  and  we  resumed  our  march  at  seven  o'clock. 
Crossing  the  river  bottom  on  the  western  side,  we  left  it,  ascend- 
ing and  descending  over  some  low  sloping  hills,  and  entering 
another  narrow,  grassy  valley,  through  which  nms  a  small 
stream  in  a  general  course  from  the  southwest.  We  travelled 
up  this  gradually  ascending  valley  about  twelve  miles,  to  a 
point  were  the  stream /orArs.  Near  this  place  there  are  several 
springs  of  very  cold  water.  Following  up  the  right-hand  foi-k 
some  miles  farther,  in  a  northwest  course,  we  left  it  by  chmb- 
ing  the  ronge  of  hills  on  the  right  hand,  passing  along  an 
elevated  ridge,  from  which  we  descended  into  a  deep  mountain 
gorge,  about  one  o'clock,  p.  m.  • 

The  mountains  on  either  side  of  the  canada  or  gorge  are  pre- 
cipitous, and  tower  upwards  several  thousand  feet  above  the 
level  upon  wliich  we  are  travelling.  At  3  o'clock  we  crossed  a 
small  s(,n!am  flowing  into  the  Canada  from  the  nortlieast.  Con- 
tinuing down,  the  space  betweei  the  ranges  of  mountains  be- 


FLORA — elephant's  STATUE.  149 

comes  narrower,  and  choked  up  with  bnish,  prostrate  trees, 
and  immense  masses  of  rock  (conglomerate)  which  have  fallen 
from  the  summits  of  the  mountains,  affording  us  no  room  to 
pass.  We  were  compelled  to  leave  the  bottom  of  the  gorge, 
and  with  great  caution,  to  find  a  path  along  the  precipitous 
side  of  the  mountains,  so  steep  in  many  places  that  our  mules 
were  in  constant  danger  of  sliding  over  the  precipices,  and  be- 
ing thus  destroyed. 

The  snows  have  recently  disappeared.  Their  fertilizing  irri- 
gation has  produced  a  verdant  carpet  of  grass  in  the  bottoms 
of  the  small  hollows,  bespangled  with  a  variety  of  blooming 
plants  and  shrubs.  The  geranium,  wild  flax  in  bloom,  and  a 
purple  phlox,  have  been  the  most  conspicuous.  In  some  places 
the  blight  of  recent  frosts  is  visible.  I  noticed  several  fir-trees 
in  one  place,  while  descending  through  the  gorge,  from  20  to 
100  feet  in  height.  Some  of  them  were  standing  upon  inacces- 
sible projections  from  the  mountain-side.  The  mountains  on 
either  side  of  us,  during  our  march  this  afternoon,  have  raised 
their  rocky  and  barren  summits  to  a  great  height,  presenting  in 
places  perpendicular  walls  and  impending  projections  of  red 
sandstone  and  conglomerate  rock.  Immense  masses  of  many 
thousand  tons'  weight  have  fallen  from  the  sides,  and  rolled  from 
the  summits  into  the  trough  of  the  gorge,  where  they  lie  im- 
bedded deep  in  the  earth,  or  shattered  by  the  concussion  of  the 
fall.  In  other  places,  the  soft  red  sandstone  has  been  worn  by 
the  action  of  the  atmosphere  into  many  remarkable  and  som' 
times  fantastic  shapes.  Some  of  these  are  spiral  and  columnar , 
others  present  the  grotesque  forms  of  nondescnpt  animals  and 
birds.  A  very  conspicuous  object  of  this  kind,  of  colossa^  mag- 
nitude, exhibited  the  profile  of  a  rhinoceros  or  elephant.  We 
na.med  it  the  "  Elep^jant's  Statue." 

The  dislocated  skeletons  of  buffaloes  which  perished  here 
many  years  ago,  have  been  frequently  seen.  Large  flocks  of 
antelope  have  been  in  sight  during  the  day's  march.  We  have 
seen  as  many  as  five  hundred.  A  red  fox,  and  an  animal  of  a 
brown  color,  which  I  never  saw  described,  approached  within  a 
short  distance  this  afternoon. 

18* 


30  ICE — ogden's  hole. 

Just  before  sunset  we  reached  a  small  opening  between  Lbe 
mountain  ranges,  covered  with  a  dense  growth  of  willows, 
wild  CMiTants,  and  wild  rose-bushes.  The  mountain-sides  pre- 
sented clumps  of  hawthorn,  and  a  feis  diminutive  and  scatter- 
ing cedars.  Here  we  encamped  in  the  small  openings  among 
the  willows  and  other  shrubbery,  where  we  found  grass  and 
water  sufficient  for  our  animals.     Distance  35  miles. 


CHAPTER    XI. 

More  extreme  cold  weather — Ogden's  Hole — Utah  Indians — ^\Veber  River 
— Canons — Indian  visiters — Disgusting  practice — Great  fires  in  the  moun- 
tains— First  view  of  the  great  Salt  Lake — Salmon-trout — Great  Sail 
Lake — A  sunset  on  the  lake — Broke  my  thermometer — Indian  chase — 
Warm  sulphur  springs — More  Indian  visiters — Indian  fruit-cake — Grass- 
hopper jam — Mode  of  taking  grasshoppers  by  the  Indians. 

July  23. — Ice  froze  in  our  buckets  and  basins  one-fourth  of 
an  inch  in  thickness.  On  the  surface  of  the  small  shallow  brook 
which  runs  througli  the  valley,  the  congelation  was  of  the  thick- 
ness of  window-glass.  At  home,  in  the  low  and  humid  regions 
of  the  Mississippi  valley,  at  this  stage  of  the  thermometer  we 
should  suffer  from  sleeping  in  the  open  air.  But  here  the  at- 
mosphere is  so  elastic,  dry,  and  bracing,  that  we  experience  no 
inconvenience. 

Continuing  our  march  down  the  narrow  defile  in  a  south- 
west course,  generally  along  the  side  of  the  mountain,  (the 
bottom  being  choked  up  with  willows,  vines,  briers,  and  rose- 
bu.shes,)  we  crossed  the  channels  at  their  mouths,  of  two  small 
streams  emj)tying  into  the  branch  upon  which  we  are  travel- 
ling. These  streams  flow  through  narrow  mountain  defiles 
which,  as  far  as  we  could  discern,  were  timbered  with  cedars 
and  poplars.  One  of  these  gorges  presents  a  most  savage  and 
gloomy  aspect.  It  is  so  narrow  and  deep  that  the  rays  of  the 
sun  never  penetrate  to  its  bottom.  Mr.  Hudspeth  thinks  this 
b  what  is  called  by  the  hunters,  "Ogden's  Hole."     It  derives 


CANONS WEBER    RIVER  151 

Chis  name  from  the  circumstance  that  a  trapper  by  tlie  name 
of  Ogden  concealed  himself  here  from  a  body  of  pursuing  and 
hostile  Indians,  and  perhaps  perished.  I  am  not  sufficiently 
acquainted  with  the  facts  to  relate  them  with  accuracy.  The 
romantic  interest  of  the  story  is  doubtless  much  enhanced  by  a 
view  of  the  wild  and  forbidding  spot  where  its  incidents  and 
catastrophe  occurred. 

The  ranges  of  mountains,  as  we  proceeded  down  the  gorge, 
became  more  and  more  elevated,  but  less  precipitous.  I  no- 
ticed, at  a  height  of  six  or  eight  hundred  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  stream,  numberless  small  white  fossil  shells,  from 
half  an  inch  to  an  inch  in  diameter.  In  places  bare  of 
vegetation,  the  ground  was  wliite  with  these  crustaceous  re- 
mains. About  eleven  o'clock,  we  passed  through  a  grove  of 
small  poplars,  at  the  upper  end  of  a  triangular  valley.  The 
stream  down  which  we  have  been  travelling,  here  runs  through 
a  perpendicular  canon  of  great  elevation,  and  empties  into  the 
main  Weber  river,  which  flows  into  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  running 
in  a  nearly  west  course.  Ascertaming  by  examination  that  we 
could  not  pass  this  canon,  without  following  a  considerable  dis- 
tance the  rocky  channel  of  the  stream,  we  crossed  some  low 
hills,  or  a  gap  in  the  mountains  at  the  northeast  corner  of  the 
valley.  While  marching  over  these  hills,  we  Avere  overtaken 
by  five  or  six  Indians  mounted  on  horses.  The  Indians  rode 
up  and  saluted  us  with  much  apparent  friendship  and  cordi- 
ality. They  were  a  small  party  encamped  in  the  valley  that 
we  had  just  left,  whose  animals  and  lodges  we  had  seen  at  a 
distance  in  the  brush  sku-ting  the  stream,.  After  riding  two 
miles,  we  entered  a  fertile  valley  several  miles  in  length  and 
breadth,  covered  with  luxuriant  grass,  through  wWch  flows 
Weber  river ;  but  tracing  the  chamiel  down  to  where  it  enters 
the  moxmtains,  we  found  a  canon  more  difficult  to  pass  than  the 
one  we  had  just  left.  Observing  at  a  diftance  a  party  of 
Indians,  whose  encampment  was  some  two  miles  up  the  valley, 
coming  towards  us,  we  determined  to  halt  for  an  hoxir  or  two, 
and  ga  ler  from  them  such  ii/ormation  as  we  could  in  refer 
eD"*- '     he  route  to  the  Salt  Lake. 


152  tTAH    INDIANS MERRY    FELLOW. 

The  first  Indians  that  came  up  were  two  men  and  a  small 
boy.  One  of  the  men  called  hunself  a  Utah,  the  other  a 
Soshonee  or  Snake.  The  Utah  appeared  to  be  overjoyed  to 
see  us.  He  was  not  satisfied  with  shaking  hands,  but  he  miist 
embrace  us,  which,  although  not  an  agreeable  ceremony,  was 
submitted  to  by  several  of  our  party.  This  ceremony  being 
over,  he  laughed  merrily,  and  danced  about  as  if  in  an  ecstasy 
of  dehght  in  consequence  of  our  appearance.  He  examined 
with  great  curiosity  all  of  our  baggage  ;  tried  on,  over  his  naked 
shoulders,  several  of  our  blankets,  in  which  costume  he  seemed 
to  regard  liimself  with  great  satisfaction.  He  was,  for  an  Indian, 
very  comical  in  his  deportment  and  very  merry.  The  number 
of  Indians  about  our  camp  soon  accumulated  to  fifteen  or 
twenty,  all  of  whom  were  Utahs,  except  the  one  Snake  men- 
tioned, Avho  had  married  a  Utah  squaw.  A  hasty  dinner  was 
prepared,  and  we  distributed  very  sparingly  among  them  (for 
our  stock  of  provisions  is  becoming  low)  something  from  each 
dish,  with  which  display  of  hospitality  they  appeared  to  be 
gratified.  Most  of  these  Indians  Avere  armed  with  bows  and 
arrows.  There  were  among  them  a  miserable  rifle  and  musket, 
which  they  had  evidently  procur.ed  from  Mexican  trappers  or 
traders,  as,  when  I  inquired  of  the  owner  of  one  of  them  its 
name,  he  pronounced  the  word  carabina.  Those  who  had  these 
guns  were  desirous  that  we  should  wait  until  they  could  ride 
some  distance  and  bring  dressed  deer  or  elkskins,  which  they 
wished  to  trade  for  powder  and  balls.  They  were  all  miserably 
clothed,  some  wearing  a  filthy,  ragged  blanket,  others  a  shirt 
and  gaiters  made  of  skins,  and  others  simply  a  breech-cloth  of 
skins.  Tlieir  countenances,  however,  were  sprightly  and  intel- 
ligent, and  several  of  them  were  powerfully  formed. 

The  result  of  our  inquiries  in  reference  to  the  route  was  not 
satisfactory.  The  merry  old  fellow  we  first  met,  advised  us  by 
signs  to  go  southwest  a  distance  until  we  struck  water,  and  then 
go  northwest.  Another  advised  us  to  retuin  to  the  small 
valley,  and  from  thence  to  pass  through  the  mountains  parallel 
with  Weber  river.  We  determined  on  the  latter  route,  it  ap- 
pearing to  be  the  shortest. 


COUNTERMARCH.  163 

Saddling  xip,  -ne  retraced  our  tniil  into  tl  e  small  valley,  where 
we  were  overtaken  by  the  Indians,  desirous  of  trading  skins  for 
powder  and  balls.  Several  trades  were  made,  generally  at  the 
rate  of  twelve  charges  of  powder,  and  as  many  ounce-bullets, 
for  a  large  elk  or  deer  skin  well  dressed.  We  ascended  from 
the  valley  through  a  winding  and  difficult  ravine,  to  the  summit 
of  the  range  of  mountains  on  the  west,  from  which  we  could  see 
nothing  but  moimtain  after  mountain,  one  rising  behind  another, 
in  the  course  we  designed  taking.  A  halt  was  called,  and  Mr. 
Hudspeth  and  myself,  leaving  our  party,  entered  a  ravine  and 
followed  it  down  steep  declivities,  (our  mules  frequently  sliding 
ten  or  fifteen  feet  over  bare  and  precipitous  rocks,)  with  a  view 
of  ascertaining  the  practicability  of  passing  along  the  bank  of 
the  river.  Forcing  our  way,  after  our  descent,  through  the 
thick  brush  and  brambles,  and  over  dead  and  fallen  timber,  we 
finally  reached  the  stream  and  crossed  it.  The  result  of  our 
observations  was  that  the  route  was  impracticable,  without  the 
aid  of  axes  to  clear  away  the  brush  and  dead  and  fallen  timber, 
unless  we  took  the  rocky  bed  of  the  river  for  a  road,  wading 
water  generally  three  feet  deep,  and  in  places,  probably  of  swim- 
ming depth  to  our  animals.  We  returned  after  considerable 
difficulty  to  our  party,  and  countermarching,  encamped  just  as 
the  sun  was  setting,  in  the  small  valley  so  often  referred  to. 

There  are  two  Indian  lodges  near  our  camp.  We  visited 
them,  and  made  exchanges  of  small  articles  with  the  women  for 
parched  and  pulverized  sunflower  and  grass  seeds.  Its  taste 
was  much  like  that  of  parched  corn,  and  agreeable.  All  the 
men,  women,  and  children,  some  eight  or  ten  in  number,  \isited 
us  during  the  preparation  and  discussion  of  our  supper,  watch- 
ing with  much  cmiosity  and  interest  the  culinary  operations  and 
other  movements.  They  were  good-natured  and  sociable,  so  far 
as  there  can  be  sociability  between  persons  making  known  their 
thoughts  by  vague  signs.  Our  supper  to-night,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  bread  and  coff(  e,  consisted  of  a  stew  made  of  antelope 
flesh,  which,  as  it  happened,  was  very  highly  seasoned  with 
peppor.  I  distributed  several  plates  of  this  stew  among  thy 
Indians.     They  tasted  of  it,  and  immediately  made  most  lud- 


154  DAN6ERCUS  PASSAGE. 

crous  grimaces,  blowing  out  and  drawing  in  their  breath,  as  if 
they  had  been  bui-nt.  They  handed  back  the  plates  without 
eating  their  contents.  To  satisfy  them  that  we  were  playing  no 
tricks  upon  them,  which  they  seemed  to  suspect,  I  ate  from  the 
same  dishes;  but  they  coulJ  not  be  prevailed  upon  to  eat  the 
stew.  Coffee,  bread,  and  a  small  lump  of  sugar  to  each  was 
distributed  among  them,  with  which  they  seemed  much  pleased. 
The  sugar  dehghted  them  beyond  measure,  and  they  eAidently 
had  never  seen  or  tasted  of  it  before.  During  the  idsit  of  these 
Indians,  I  noticed  the  females  hunting  for  the  veimin  in  the 
heads  and  on  the  bodies  of  their  children  ;  finding  which,  they 
ite  the  animals  with  an  apparent  rehsh.  I  had  often  heard  of 
this  disgusting  practice,  but  tliis  is  the  first  instance  of  it  I  have 
Been.  They  retired  to  their  lodges  about  nine  o'clock,  and  so 
much  confidence  did  we  feel  in  their  friendship,  that  no  watch 
wa.s  set  for  the  night.    Distance  from  our  last  camp,  seven  miles. 

Jvdy  24. — Crossing  for  the  third  time  the  low  gap  at  the 
southeastern  corner  of  the  small  valley,  we  entered  the  large, 
level,  and  fertile  bottom,  on  the  edge  of  which  we  had  halted 
yesterday.  Fording  the  river,  we  took  a  south  course  over  this 
bottom,  which  is  about  three  miles  in  breadth,  covered  with  tall 
grass,  the  bloom  upon  which  shows  that,  when  ripe,  it  must  be 
heavily  seeded  and  nutritious.  From  the  valley  we  ascended 
gradually  five  or  six  miles  to  the  summit  of  a  ridge  of  hills,  from 
which,  descending  about  the  same  distance  in  a  southwest  course, 
we  struck  another  branch  of  Weber's  river,  flowing  in  a  north- 
west course.  FoUowinsr  the  stream  about  a  mile,  much  to  our 
disappointment  we  found  another  impassable  canon.  This  canon 
resembles  a  gate,  about  six  or  eight  feet  in  width,  the  arch  and 
superstructure  of  which  have  fallen  in  immense  masses,  render- 
ing a  passage  by  the  channel  of  the  stream  impossible.  The 
mountains  on  either  side  raise  their  perpendicular  walls  of  red 
»andstone  to  a  great  elevation, 

Looking  up  the  side  of  the  mountain  on  our  right,  we  saw  a 
small  Indian  trail  winding  under  and  over  the  projecting  and 
impending  chfl's.  This  evidence  that  the  Indians  had  passed 
Qm  way,  satisfied  us  that  we  could  do  the  same ;  although  to 


BEAUTIFUL  LiNDSCAPE.  155 

the  eye,  when  standing  in  the  valley  and  lookmg  upwards,  it 
seemed  impossible.  We  commenced  the  ascent,  mules  and 
men  following  each  other  along  the  narrow  and  dangerous  patli 
in  single  file.  After  much  labor  we  reached  the  summit  of  the 
ascent.  This  first  difl&culty  being  over,  we  travelled  about  two 
miles  along  the  side  of  the  mountain,  in  a  path  so  narrow  that 
a  sUght  jostle  would  have  cast  us  over  a  precipice  to  the  bottom 
of  a  gulf  a  thousand  feet  in  depth.  Continuing  down  the  stream 
five  miles,  our  progress  being  obstructed  by  many  difficulties, 
we  at  length,  much  to  our  gratification,  reached  an  opening 
between  the  mountains,  displaying  an  extensive  valley  covered 
with  grass,  and  the  meanderings  of  the  stream  upon  which  we 
were  travelling  by  the  line  of  dark  green  shrubbery  and  herbage 
upon  its  banks.  We  reached  the  jimction  of  this  stream  with 
Weber  river  between  four  and  five  o'clock,  and  encamped  for 
the  day. 

A  number  of  Utah  Indians  accompanied  us  several  miles 
this  morning.  Among  them  was  the  pleasant  and  comical  old 
fellow,  who  amused  us  so  much  yesterday.  They  all  appeared 
to  be  much  gratified  by  our  visit,  and  were  very  pressing  in 
their  invitations  to  us  to  stop  and  trade  with  them.  Near  the 
last  canon  there  was  a  solitary  lodge,  from  which  the  inhabi- 
tants, with  the  exception  of  an  old  man  and  woman,  fled  as 
soon  as  they  saw  us,  driving  before  them  their  horses.  The  old 
man  and  woman,  being  unable  to  run,  hid  themselves  under  the 
bank  qi  the  stream.  I  noticed  in  one  of  the  ravines  to-day, 
the  scrub-oak,  or  what  is  commonly  called  black-jack,  also  a  few 
small  maple-trees.  Tlie  trunks  of  none  of  these  are  more  than 
two  inches  in  diameter.     Distance  24  miles. 

July  25. — We  determined  to  remain  encamped  to-day,  to 
rest  and  recniit  our  mules,  the  grass  and  water  being  good. 
The  valley  in  which  our  camp  is  situated  is  about  fifteen  miles 
in  length,  and  varies  from  one  to  three  miles  in  breadth.  The 
mountains  on  both  sides  rise  in  benches  one  above  another,  to 
an  elevation  of  several  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  val- 
ley. The  summits  of  this  range,  on  the  west,  exhibit  snow.  It 
is  scarcely  pcssible  to  imagine  a  landscape  blending  more  v»- 


156  MOUNTAINS  ON  FIRE. 

riety,  beauty,  and  sublimity,  than  is  here  presented.  The  quiet, 
secluded  valley,  with  its  luxuriant  grass  waving  hi  the  breeze ; 
the  gentle  streamlet  winding  through  it,  skirted  with  clumps  of 
willows  and  the  wUd  rose  in  bloom ;  the  -wild  currant,  laden 
with  ripe  fruit ;  the  aspen  poplar,  with  its  silveiy,  tremulous 
fohage ;  the  low,  slopmg  hills,  rising  at  first  by  gentle  ascents, 
and  becoming  gradually  more  and  more  elevated  and  rugged, 
until  their  barren  and  snowy  summits  seem  almost  to  cleave  the 
sky,  compose  a  combination  of  scenery  not  often  witnessed. 

I  noticed  this  morning,  about  ten  o'clock,  a  column  of  smoke 
rising  from  the  mountains  to  the  west.  The  fire  which  pro- 
duced it  continued  to  mcrease  with  an  almost  frightful  rapidity, 
and  the  wind,  blowing  from  that  quarter,  has  driven  the  smoke 
into  the  valley,  darkenmg  the  sun,  and  imparting  to  every  thing 
around  a  lurid  and  dismal  colorhig. 

Jacob,  Buchanan,  and  Brown  started  early  this  morning, 
with  the  intention  of  ascending  one  of  the  snowy  mountain 
peaks.  They  returned  about  foiu-  o'clock,  p.  m.,  overcome  with 
the  fatigue  of  then  walk,  and  without  having  accomphshed  their 
design,  being  prevented  by  distance,  and  the  tangled  brush  in 
the  hollows  and  ravines.  Mr.  Hudspeth  rode  down  the  valley 
to  explore  Weber's  river  to  the  Salt  Lake.  He  returned  in  the 
afternoon,  having  passed  through  the  next  canon.  I  noticed 
several  magpies,  and  other  small  birds,  in  the  valley  during  the 
day. 

July  26. — The  fires  in  the  mountains  were  burning  with  great 
fury  all  night,  threatening,  although  probably  at  a  distance  of 
twenty  miles,  to  reacli  us  before  we  decamped.  Burnt  leaves 
and  aslics,  driven  by  the  winds,  wliirled  through  the  atmosphere, 
and  fell  around  us  in  the  valley.  Mr.  Hudspeth  and  two  of  the 
men  with  hira  left  us  here,  to  explore  the  canon  above,  and  as- 
certain tlie  practicability  of  wagons  passing  through  it.  Resu- 
ming our  march,  we  proceeded  down  the  valley  about  ten  miles, 
passing  through,  at  its  lower  end,  a  grove  of  poplars,  in  which 
a  fire  had  been  burning,  and  some  of  the  fallen  trees  were  yet 
blazing.  Entering  between  the  walls  of  the  momitams  forming 
he  caAon,  after  laborious  exertions  for  several  hours,  we  passed 


/1R8T   VIEW  OF  SALT  LAKB.  157 

through  it  without  any  serious  accident.  The  canon  is  four  or 
five  miles  through,  and  we  were  compelled,  as  heretofore,  to 
climb  along  the  side  of  the  precipitous  mountains,  frequently 
passing  under,  and  sometimes  scaling,  immense  overhanging 
masses  and  projections  of  rock.  To  be  thus  safely  enlarged 
from  this  natural  prison-house,  locked  at  every  point,  was  an 
agreeable,  if  not  an  important  event  in  the  history  of  our  journey. 

At  four  o'clock,  p.  m.,  we  encamped  on  the  bank  of  the  We- 
ber river,  just  below  the  canon.  The  stream,  at  this  point,  is 
about  thirty  feet  in  breadth,  with  a  hmpid  and  rapid  current, 
and  a  rocky  channel.  The  grass  along  its  margin  is  dry  and 
dead,  but  well  seeded,  and  consequently  nutritious  to  our  ani- 
mals. A  few  small  poplars,  generally  from  two  to  three  inches 
in  diameter  at  the  trimk,  skirt  the  stream. 

I  ascended  the  range  of  hUls  bordering  the  valley  of  the 
river  to  the  south,  from  which  I  had  a  most  extensive  and  in- 
teresting view  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  My  position  was  about 
ten  miles  distant  from  the  lake,  but  my  elevation  was  such  that 
I  could  discern  its  surface  from  the  north  to  the  south,  a  dis- 
tance which  I  estimated  at  sixty  or  eighty  miles.  The  shore 
next  to  me,  as  far  as  I  could  see  it,  was  white.  Numerous 
mountainous  islands,  dark  and  apparently  barren,  sometimes  in 
ranges  of  fifteen  or  twenty  miles,  sometimes  in  solitary  peaks, 
rise  to  a  considerable  elevation  above  its  sm-face ;  but  the  waters 
suiTOunding  these  insulations  could  be  traced  between  them  as 
far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  The  evening  was  calm,  and  not  a 
ripple  distm-bed  tlie  tranquil  bosom  of  the  lake.  As  the  sun  was 
sinking  beliind  the  far  distant  elevations  to  the  west,  the  glassy 
surface  of  this  vast  inland  ocean  was  illuminated  by  its  red 
rays,  and  for  a  few  minutes  it  appeared  like  a  sea  of  molten 
fire.  The  plain  or  valley  of  the  lake,  to  the  right,  is  some  eight 
or  ten  miles  in  width,  and  fertile.  The  Weber  river  winds 
through  it,  emptying  into  the  lake  some  ten  mUes  to  the  north 
of  oiu'  camp.  A  few  trees  fringe  its  margm.  I  could  smell  a 
strong  and  offensive  fetor  wafted  from  the  shore  of  the  lake. 

Retumir^g  to  camp.  Miller,  who  had  employed  his  leisure  in 
angling,  exhibited  a  piscatoiy  spectacle  worthy  the  admiration 

14 


158  PISCATORY  DELICACY. 

of  the  most  epicurean  iclithyophagist.  He  had  taken  with  hia 
hook  about  a  dozen  salmon-trout,  from  eight  to  eighteen  inches 
in  length ;  and  the  longest  weighing  four  or  five  poimds.  A 
delicacy  such  as  this,  and  so  abundant,  we  determined  to  enjoy, 
and  from  the  results  of  Miller's  sport  we  feasted  this  evening 
upon  a  viand  which  epicm'es  would  give  much  to  obtain ;  but 
ihey  nor  my  "  Tonglythian"  friends,  Higgins  and  Frazer,  would 
scarcely  undergo  the  fatigues  and  piivations  to  which  we  had 
been  subjected  for  its  acquisition.     Distance  16  miles. 

July  27. — By  an  arrangement  with  Mr.  Hudspeth,  we  re- 
mained encamped,  awaiting  his  retuin  from  his  exploring  trip 
.hrough  the  upper  canon  of  Weber  river.  Fishing  apparatus 
;7as  in  great  demand  this  morning ;  and  most  of  the  party,  as 
soon  as  breakfast  was  over,  were  enjoying  the  Waltonian  sport, 
in  anghng  for  the  delicious  salmon-trout  with  which  the  stream 
abounds.  Our  bait  is  the  large  insect  resembling  the  cricket, 
heretofore  described,  myriads  of  which  are  creeping  and  hop- 
ping among  the  grass,  and  other  vegetation  of  the  valley. 
Every  angler  was  more  or  less  successful,  according  to  his  luck 
or  skill.  A  quantity  of  fish,  weighing  each  from  two  to  five 
pounds,  was  taken, — more  than  sufficient  for  our  wants,  although 
our  appetites  at  this  time  are  not  easily  satisfied.  The  fires 
noticed  day  before  yesterday,  and  yesterday,  have  continued  to 
burn  ;  and  this  afternoon  they  seemed  to  have  found  fresh  fuel. 
The  wind  changing  to  the  southeast,  and  blowing  a  gale,  just 
before  simset,  dense  clouds  of  smoke  and  ashes  were  driven 
down  upon  us. 

July  28. — Some  of  the  party  went  into  the  hills  to  gather 
service-berries.  (I  do  not  know  that  this  orthography  is  correct. 
It  is  in  accordance  with  the  orthoepy.)  The  service-berry  is 
produced  by  a  shrub,  generally  from  four  to  six  feet  m  height. 
It  is  of  a  dark  color,  larger  than  the  whortleberry,  and  not 
very  unlike  it  in  flavor.     This  fruit  is  abundant  here. 

July  29. — Mr.  Hudspeth  and  two  young  men  came  into  camp 
early  (his  morning,  having  bivouacked  List  night  a  short  distance 
from  us,  on  the  opposite  side  of  tho  river.  They  had  forced 
their  way  through  the  upper  caflon,  and  proceeded  six  miles 


GREAT  SALT  LAKE.  159 

further  up  Weber  river,  where  they  met  a  train  of  abcut  forty 
emigrant  wagons  under  the  guidance  of  Mr.  Hastings,  which 
left  Fort  Bridger  the  same  day  that  we  did.  The  difficulties  to 
be  encountered  by  these  emigrants  by  the  new  route  will  com- 
mence at  that  point ;  and  they  will,  I  fear,  be  serious.  Mr. 
Hudspeth  thinks  that  the  passage  through  the  canon  is  practi- 
cable, by  making  a  road  in  the  bed  of  the  stream  at  short  dis- 
tances, and  cutting  out  the  timber  and  brush  in  other  places. 

Resuming  om*  march,  we  took  a  south  course  over  the  low 
hills  bordering  the  valley  in  which  we  have  been  encamped ; 
thence  along  the  base  of  a  range  of  elevated  moimtains  which 
slope  down  to  the  marshy  plain  of  the  lake.  This  plain  varies 
in  width  from  fifteen  to  two  miles,  becoming  narrower  as  we 
approach  what  is  called  the  "  Utah  Outlet,"  the  channel 
through  which  the  Utah  Lake  empties  its  waters  into  the  Salt 
Lake. 

The  Great  Salt  Lake  has  never  been  accm-ately  sm-veyed. 
It  is  situated  between  40  and  42  degrees  of  north  latitude,  and 
between  35  and  36  degrees  of  longitude  west  from  Washington. 
Its  length  is  variously  stated  by  the  himters  and  trappers  who 
have  travelled  along  its  shores,  at  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to 
one  hundred  and  eighty  miles.  But  in  this  estimate,  the  numer- 
ous large  bays  and  other  irregularities  are  included.  Its  extreme 
length  m  a  straight  line  is  probably  one  hundred  miles,  and  its 
extreme  breadth  between  forty  and  sixty  miles.  At  this  season 
the  shore,  as  we  pass  along  it,  is  white  with  a  crust  of  the  mmi- 
ate  and  carbonate  of  soda  combined.  The  muriate  of  soda 
predominates,  but  the  alkali  combined  with  it  is  sufficient  to 
render  the  salt  bitter  and  imfit  for  use  in  its  natural  state. 
When  the  wind  blows  from  the  lake,  the  stench  arising  from 
the  stagnant  water  next  to  the  shore  is  highly  offensive  to  tlie 
smell.  The  surface  of  the  lake  does  not  present  that  rippling 
and  sparkling  appearance  when  the  sudden  breeze  passes  over  it, 
so  frequently  seen  on  fresh- water  lakes,  and  on  the  ocean.  The 
waters  undoubtedly  are  thoroughly  saturated  with  saline  mat- 
ter, and  hence,  from  their  weight,  when  they  move  at  all,  it  is 
with  a  lazy  and  sluggish  undulatory  motion.     It  is  statMl  that 


160  EXCESSIVE  HEAT — INTERESTING  VIEWS. 

no  fish  exist  in  the  lake.  I  have  already  mentioned  that  ther 
are  numerous  moimtainous  islands  in  the  lake.  There  are  alsc 
several  large  bays  indenting  its  shores.  The  plain  or  valley 
along  which  we  have  travelled  to-day  is  in  some  places  argilla- 
ceous, in  others  sandy  and  gravelly.  Where  there  is  a  soil,  it 
is '  covered  with  a  growth  of  luxuriant  vegetation, — grass,  a 
species  of  cane,  rushes,  and  a  variety  of  small  shrubs  and  flower- 
ing plants.  A  few  scrub-oaksands  tunted  cedars  can  be  seen 
on  the  mountain- sides,  and  along  the  ravines.  There  are  many 
small  streams  of  pure  cold  water  flowing  from  the  mountains. 

The  heat'  of  the  sun  during  our  march  this  afternoon  was 
excessive.  My  bridle  reins  were  frequently  so  hot  that  it  was 
painful  to  hold  them  in  my  hands.  The  road  has  been  difficult, 
and  our  progress  slow.  We  encamped  about  three  o'clock  for 
the  day,  on  a  small  spring  branch.  The  sunset  scene  this  even- 
ing was  splendid.  The  sm-face  of  the  lake  appeared  like  a  sheet 
of  fire,  ■s^arying  in  tint  from  crimson  to  a  pale  scaz'let.  This 
flame-hke  ocean  was  bordered  as  far  as  we  could  see  to  the 
north  and  south  of  us,  with  a  field  of  salt,  presenting  all  the 
appearances  of  freshly  fjxUen  snow. 

When  I  took  out  the  thermometer  this  evening,  much  to  my 
regret  I  discovered  that  the  bulb  was  broken.  I  himg  the  frame 
and  glass  tube  on  a  wUlow  for  the  observation  of  the  Indians. 
It  will  be  some  time  before  they  will  venture  to  touch  it.  They 
stand  in  great  awe  of  the  mysterious  instruments  which  science 
has  invented,  and  never  handle  them  except  with  due  caution. 
Distance  18  miles. 

July  30. — At  simrise,  clear  and  calm,  with  an  agreeable  tem- 
perature. The  morning  scene  was  beautifully  grand.  Our 
camp  being  in  the  shadow  of  the  mountains,  the  face  of  the 
sun  was  invisiljle  to  us,  long  after  his  golden  rays  had  tipped, 
one  after  anotlier,  the  summits  of  the  far-distant  islands  in  the 
lake.  By  degrees  the  vast  expanse  of  waters  became  illumin' 
ated,  reflecting  the  bright  beams  of  the  god  of  day  with 
dazzlinf;  efruljronce. 

Our  route  to-day  continued  south,  near  the  base  of  the  range 
of  mountains  on  our  left.     We  frequently  crossed  deep  ravine* 


STRAGGLING   UTAH. — WARM  SPRINGS.  161 

and  piles  of  granite  debris,  with  which  the  slope  of  the  moun- 
tains in  places  is  covered.  TraveUing  about  ten  milefe  we  reached 
the  soutliern  extremity  of  one  of  the  bays  of  the  Salt  Lake.  Be- 
yond this  there  is  a  basin  of  water  some  three  or  four  miles  in  cir- 
cumference, surrounded  by  a  smooth  sandy  beach.  An  immense 
number  of  ducks  were  walking  and  flying  over  this  beach  and 
playing  in  the  basin.  Approaching  the  shore  of  the  pond,  a 
soUtary  Indian  rose  from  the  weeds  or  grass  near  the  water,,  and 
discovering  us,  he  started  immediately  and  ran  with  considerable 
speed  tOAvards  a  point  of  the  mountains  on  our  left.  Several  of 
us  pursued  and  overtook  him.  He  appeared  much  alarmed  at 
first,  but  after  shaking  hands  with  us,  and  discovering  that  we 
had  no  hostile  intentions,  he  soon  forgot  his  fright.  He  carried 
in  his  hand  a  miserably  lean  duck,  which  he  had  just  killed  with 
an  arrow.  A  quiver  slimg  across  his  bare  and  tawny  shoulders, 
was  well  supphed  with  this  weapon.  He  was  naked,  with  the 
exception  of  a  small  covering  around  his  loins,  and  his  skin  was 
as  dark  as  a  dark  mulatto.  Learning  from  him  that  he  was  a 
Utah,  we  endeavored  to  make  him  comprehend  that  we  wished 
to  trade  with  his  tribe  for  elk-meat.  He  shook  his  head,  t-.nd 
appearing  desirous  of  lea\ing  us,  we  dismissed  him.  He  was 
soon  out  of  sight,  hurrying  away  with  long  and  rapid  strides. 

Proceeding  about  two  miles  and  turning  the  point  of  the 
mountain,  we  came  to  seven  warm  springs,  so  strongly  impreg- 
nated with  sulphur  as  to  have  left  a  deposite  of  this  mineral  in 
some  places  several  feet  in  depth.  These  springs  gush  out 
near  the  foot  of  a  high  precipice,  composed  of  conglomerate 
rock  and  a  bluish  sandstone.  The  precipice  seems  to  have 
been  uplifted  by  some  subterraneous  convulsion.  The  tempera- 
ture of  the  water  in  the  basins  was  about  90°.  The  water  of 
most  of  them  was  bitter  and  nauseous. 

From  these  springs  we  crossed  a  level  plain,  on  which  we 
encamped  at  11  o'clock,  a.  m.,  near  a  small  stream  of  cold  wa- 
ter flowing  from  the  mountains,  which  is  skirted  with  a  few 
poplars  and  small  willows.  The  grass  immediately  around  our 
camp  is  fresh  and  green,  but  a  short  distance  from  us  it  ii 
brown,  dry,  and  crisp. 

14* 


162 


INDIAN    DELICACIE 


After  dinner  we  were  visited  by  three  Indians,  one  of  whom 
yas  the  man  with  the  duck  we  saw  this  morning.  The  eldes"'. 
of  the  three  signified  that  he  wished  a  friendly  smoke  and  a 
"  talk."  A  pipe  was  produced  and  filled  with  tobacco.  Light- 
ing it,  I  drew  two  or  three  puffs  and  handed  it  to  the  old  man, 
and  it  passed  from  him  to  his  comrades  until  the  tobacco  was 
consumed.  They  appeared  to  enjoy  the  fumes  of  the  smoke 
highly.  We  informed  them  of  our  wish  to  trade  for  meat. 
They  signified  that  they  had  none.  Three  females  of  middle  age, 
miserably  clad  and  ugly,  soon  made  their  appearance,  bring- 
ing baskets  containing  a  substance,  which,  upon  examination, 
we  ascertained  to  be  service-berries,  crushed  to  a  jam  and  mixed 
with  pulverized  grasshoppers.  This  composition  being  dried  in 
the  sun  until  it  becomes  hard,  is  what  may  be  called  the  "  fruit- 
cake" of  these  poor  children  of  the  desert.  No  doubt  these 
women  regarded  it  as  one  of  the  most  acceptable  offerings  they 
could  make  to  us.  We  purchased  all  they  broiight  with  them, 
paying  them  in  darning-needles  and  other  small  articles,  with 
which  they  were  much  pleased.  The  prejudice  against  the 
grasshopper  "  fruit-cake"  was  stronp'  at  first,  but  it  soon  wore 
off,  and  none  of  the  delicacy  was  thrown  away  or  lost. 

Two  of  our  party  mounted  their  mules  and  rode  to  the  In- 
dian encampment  to  ascertain  if  there  were  not  more  Indians, 
and  some  from  whom  meat  could  be  obtained.  As  soon  as  the 
men  and  women  in  our  camp  saw  them  riding  in  the  direction 
of  their  lodges,  they  hastened  away  with  great  speed  and  in 
much  alarm.  Returning  from  the  Indian  encampment,  Jacob 
and  Brookey  reported  that  tliere  were  no  more  Indians,  and 
that  no  meat  could  be  obtained.  They  saw  a  large  quantity  of 
grasshoppers,  or  crickets,  (tlie  insect  I  have  before  described,) 
which  were  being  prepared  for  pulverization. 

The  Indians  of  this  region,  in  order  to  capture  this  insect 
with  greater  facility,  dig  a  pit  in  the  ground.  They  then  make 
what  liunt'Ms,  foi-  brevity  of  expression,  call  a  surround  ; — that 
is,  they  form  a  circle  at  a  distance  around  this  pit,  and  drive 
the  grasshoppers  or  crickets  into  it,  when  they  are  easily  se- 
emed and   taken.     After  being  killed,  they  are  baked  before 


UTAH    OUTLET LAKE.  163 

the  fire  or  dried  in  the  sun,  and  then  pulverized  between  smooth 
ptones.  Prejudice  aside,  I  have  tasted  what  are  called  delicacies, 
less  agreeable  to  the  palate.  Although  the  Utahs  are  a  pow- 
erful and  warlike  tribe,  these  Indians  appeared  to  be  wretch- 
edly destitute. 

A  fire  was  raging  on  the  mountain-side  all  night,  and  spread 
down  into  the  valley,  consuming  the  brown  vegetation.  The 
water  of  the  small  stream  was  made  bitter  with  the  ashes. 
Our  camp-ground,  we  conjecture,  is  the  same  that  was  occu- 
pied by  Captain  Fremont  last  year.     Distance  15  miles. 


CHAPTER    XII. 

Utah  Outlet  and  Lake — Enter  the  desert — Utah  language — Col.  Russell's 
nine-shooter — Digger  Indians — Utter  sterility. 

July  31. — Morning  clear,  with  a  deUghtfuI  temperature,  and 
a  light  breeze  blowing  from  the  west.  Our  route  to-day  runs 
in  a  west  course  across  the  valley  of  the  "  Utah  Outlet,"  about 
ten  miles  south  from  the  bay  or  arm  of  the  Salt  Lake  upon 
which  we  have  been  travelling.  The  waters  of  the  Utah  Lake 
are  emptied  into  the  Salt  Lake  through  this  channel.  The 
Utah  Lake  is  a  body  of  fresh  water  between  sixty  and  eighty 
miles  in  circumference,  situated  about  twenty  miles  south  of 
the  Salt  Lake.  The  shape  of  the  extensive  plain  of  this  lake 
was  made  apparent  to  us  by  the  mountains  surrounduig  it. 
The  plain  of  the  lake  is  said  to  be  fertile,  but  of  the  extent  of 
its  fertility  I  have  no  certain  knowledge.  The  eastern  side  of 
the  valley  of  the  "  Outlet"  is  well  watered  by  small  streams 
rmming  from  the  mountains,  and  the  grass  and  other  herbage 
on  the  upland  are  abundant,  but  there  is  no  timber  visible  from 
o\u-  position.* 

Descending  from  the  upland  slope  on  which  we  encamped 
yesterday,  we  crossed  a  marsh  about  two  mUes  in  width,  covered 

*  In  1847  the  Mormons  made  a  settlehient  between  the  Utah  and  the 
Salt  Lake. 


164  UTAH    OUTLET. 

with  grass  so  dense  and  matted  that  our  animals  could  scarcely 
make  theh  way  through  it.  This  grass  is  generally  from  five 
to  eight  feet  in  height.  A  species  of  rush  called  tule  is  pi'oduced 
on  the  marsh.  It  grows  to  the  height  of  eight  and  ten  feet. 
The  ground  is  very  soft  and  tremulous,  and  is  covered  for  the 
most  part  with  water  to  the  depth  of  two  or  three  inches.  But 
our  mules  were  prevented  from  sinking  into  it  by  the  forest  of 
herbage  which  they  prostrated  under  their  feet  as  they  ad- 
vanced. From  the  marsh  we  ascended  a  few  feet  upon  hard, 
dry  ground,  producing  a  coarse  grass  with  an  ear  resembling 
our  small  grains,  wheat  or  barley,  and  some  few  flowers,  with 
bunches  of  wild  sage.  The  colors  of  the  flowers  were  generally 
yellow  and  scarlet. 

We  reached  the  Utah  Outlet  after  travelling  four  mUes,  and 
forded  it  without  difficulty.  The  channel  is  about  twenty 
yards  in  breadth,  and  the  water  in  the  deepest  places  about  three 
feet.  The  bed  of  the  channel  is  composed  of  compact  bluish  clay. 
The  plain  or  valley,  from  the  western  bank  of  the  "  Outlet"  to 
the  base  of  the  range  of  hills  to  the  west,  is  level  and  smooth,  and 
in  places  white  with  a  saline  deposite  or  efflorescence.  There  is 
but  little  vegetation  upon  it,  and  this  is  chiefly  the  wild  sage, 
indicative  of  aridity,  and  poverty  of  soil.  From  this  plain  we 
struck  the  shore  of  another  bay  of  the  Salt  Lake,  bordered 
by  a  range  of  mountains  running  parallel  with  it.  The  shore, 
next  to  the  white  crust  of  salt,  is  covered  with  a  debris  pre- 
cipitated from  the  rocky  summits  of  the  mountains. 

Our  route  for  several  hours  described  nearly  a  semicircle, 
when  there  was  a  break  in  the  range  of  mountains,  and  we 
entered  upon  another  plain.  About  three  o'clock,  p.  m.,  we 
passed  several  remarkable  rocks  rising  in  tower-Uke  shapes 
from  the  plain,  to  the  height  of  sixty  or  eighty  feet.  Beyond 
these  we  crossed  two  small  streams  bitter  witli  saline  and  alka- 
line impregnation.  The  plain  presents  a  sterile  appearance, 
but  little  vegetation  appearing  upon  it,  and  that  stunted  and 
withered.  At  seven  o'clock,  i*.  m.,  we  reached  a  spring  branch 
descending  from  a  mountain  ravine,  and  fringed  with  small  wil- 
lows, the  water  of  which  is  comparatively   fresh   and    cooi. 


UTAH    DIALECT. 


165 


Here  we  encamped  after  a  march  -^^.itliout  halting,  of  twelve 
hours.  There  is  a  variety  of  vegetation  along  the  stream — grass, 
weeds,  some  few  flowers,  briers,  and  rose-bushes. 

Soon  after  we  encamped,  tliree  Utali  Indians  visited  us. 
They  were  mounted  on  horses,  rather  lean,  and  sore-backed  from 
hard  usage.  The  men  appeared  to  be  of  a  better  class  and 
more  intelligent  than  those  we  had  before  met  with.  They 
were  young  and  manifested  much  sprightlmess,  and  an  inquisi- 
tive curiosity,  which  they  took  no  pains  to  conceal.  We 
invited  them  to  sup  with  us,  and  they  partook  of  our  simple 
viands  with  a  high  relish.  A  renewal  of  our  overtures  to  trade 
for  meat  met  with  no  better  success  than  before.  They  had 
no  meat  to  dispose  of.  They  were  dressed  m  buckskm  sliirts, 
gaiters,  and  moccasins ;  and  armed  with  bows  and  arrows. 
Two  of  these  men,  the  most  intelligent,  concluded  to  encamp 
with  us  for  the  night.  The  principal  of  these,  a  young  man  of 
about  twenty-five,  with  an  amiable  but  sprightly  expression  of 
countenance,  was  so  earnest  and  eager  in  his  inquiries  respect- 
ing every  thing  appertaining  to  us,  and  into  our  language,  that 
I  sat  conversing  with  him  until  a  late  hour  of  the  night.  Fron: 
him  I  learned  the  names  of  many  things  in  the  Utah  dialect 
I  give  some  of  these  below.  The  orthography  is  jn  strict  ac 
oordance  with  the  sound. 


ENGLISH.  UTAH. 

Tobacco Pah. 

Fire Coutouch. 

Grass Shawnip. 

Hair Pamp. 

Sun Tarp. 

Powder-horn Naup. 

Spur Tannegan. 

Mule Moodah. 

Bullet NavaL 

Knife Weitch. 

Horse Punk. 

Finger Mushevan 

Foot Mamp. 

Bear's  Claw Musheta. 

Saddle Middesah. 


ENGLISH.  UTAH. 

Water Poh. 

Eye Pooh. 

Ear Nank. 

Nose Tamoucher 

Hand Moh. 

Flint Tuck. 

Wood Schnip. 

Blanket Tochewanu^ 

Pipe Toh. 

Teeth Tamp. 

Bear Padewap. 

Rifle Wokeat 

Powder ~ JJoketouch . 

Pantaloons Waunaoovei 


166  INDIAN  PRIZE. 

These  are  some  of  tlie  words  of  the  Utah  language  whicli  I 
wrote  down,  from  his  pronunciation,  by  the  light  of  our  camp- 
fire.  Fumishmg  him  and  his  companion  some  skins,  we  re- 
quested them  to  retire  for  the  night,  which  they  seemed  to  do 
with  reluctance.     Distance  40  miles. 

August  1. — Morning  clear,  with  a  delightfully  soft  breeze 
from  the  south.  I  pm'chased,  this  morning,  of  one  of  the 
Utahs,  a  dressed  grisly  bear-skin,  for  which  I  gave  him  twenty 
charges  of  powder  and  twenty  bullets.  Several  other  small 
trades  were  made  with  them  by  om*  party.  Ha\Tng  determined 
to  cross  a  range  of  mountains,  instead  of  following  to  avoid 
it,  the  shore  of  another  cove  or  bay  of  the  Salt  Lake, — by  doing 
which  we  should  lose  in  distance  twenty-five  or  thu-ty  miles, — 
we  laid  our  com"se  nearly  west,  towards  the  lowest  gap  we 
could  discover  in  the  range. 

After  we  had  proceeded  two  or  three  miles  up  the  sloping 
plain,  towards  the  base  of  the  mountains.  Colonel  Russell  recol- 
lected that  he  had  left  his  rifle  at  the  camp — a  "nine-shooter." 
Accompanied  by  Miller,  he  returned  back  to  recover  it.  I  was 
very  well  satisfied  that  the  Indians  Avould  have  discovered  it, 
and,  considering  it  a  valuable  prize,  would  not  wait  for  the 
return  of  the  loser.  According  to  their  code  of  morals,  it  is  not 
dishonest  to  take  what  is  left  in  camp,  and  they  never  fail  to  do 
it.  I  halted  for  an  hour,  and  long  after  oui-  party  had  disap- 
peared in  a  gorge  of  the  mountains,  for  the  return  of  Colonel 
Russell  and  Miller.  I  could  see,  from  my  elevated  position,  the 
dust  raised  by  the  horses  of  the  retreating  Indians  on  the  plain, 
at  a  distance  of  six  or  eight  miles  from  the  camp.  Becoming 
impatient,  I  commenced  a  countermarch,  and  while  moving  on, 
1  saw,  at  a  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half,  a  solitary  horseman, 
urging  his  animal  with  great  speed  towards  me.  There  being 
but  one  instead  of  two,  I  felt  considerable  anxiety,  not  knowing 
but  some  disaster  inight  huve  occurred.  I  moved  faster  towards 
iL'i  hoisemun,  and,  at  the  distance  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  dis- 
coveied  tiiat  it  was  Colonel  Russell.  Riding  towards  him,  1 
inquired  what  bad  become  of  Miller?  lie  did  not  know.  He 
had  lotit  him  in  hunting  tlu-ough  the  willows  and  ravines.     My 


PRIZE    RETURNED.  167 

anxiety  was  mucli  increased  at  this  report,  and  I  started  to 
return  to  the  camp,  when  Miller,  proceeding  at  a  slow  gait, 
appeared  on  one  of  the  distant  elevations.  The  result  of  the 
search  for  the  "  nine-shooting  "  rifle  was  fruitless.  The  Indians 
had  carried  it  away  with  them.  The  only  consolation  I  could 
offer  to  Colonel  Russell  for  his  loss  was,  that  a  more  useless 
burden  was  never  carried  on  the  shoulders  of  man  or  mule.  It 
was  a  weight  upon  the  beast,  and  an  incumbrance  to  the  rider, 
and  of  no  practical  utility  on  this  journey.  This  consolation, 
however,  was  not  very  soothing. 

[I  will  state  here,  that  this  rifle  was  recovered  by  Mr.  Hud- 
speth, brought  into  California,  and  returned  to  Colonel  Russell. 
The  Indian  who  took  it  from  our  camp,  after  he  had  returned  to 
the  village  of  his  tribe,  was  much  elated  by  his  prize.  But  in 
discharging  it,  the  ball,  instead  of  making  its  passage  through 
the  barrel,  took  another  direction,  and  wounded  him  in  the  leg. 
An  instrument  so  mysterious  and  eccentric  it  was  considered 
dangerous  to  retain,  and  the  chief  ordered  its  restoration  to  the 
emigrant  parties  followuig  us.  It  was  recognised  by  Mr.  Hud- 
speth, and  returned  to  its  owner,  as  above  stated.] 

Following  the  trail  of  our  party,  we  entered  the  narrow 
mountain-gorge,  or  valley,  where  I  saw  them  disappear.  Pro- 
ceeding up  this  valley,  we  passed  several  temporary  wigwams, 
erected  by  the  Indians  along  the  side  of  the  small  stream  which 
[lows  through  it  fi"om  the  summit  of  the  mountain.  These  wig- 
wams were  all  deserted ;  but  fires  were  burning  in  front  of  them, 
ilogs  were  barking,  and  willow-baskets,  some  of  which  contained 
sorvice-berries,  were  standing  about.  A  few  poplar  and  pine 
trees,  service-bushes,  willows,  and  a  variety  of  smaU  shrubbery, 
with  an  occasional  sunflower,  ornament  this  narrow  and  roman- 
tic gorge.  As  we  ascended,  the  sides  of  the  mountain  pre- 
sented ledges  of  variegated  marble,  and  a  debris  of  the  same 
was  strewn  in  our  path.  We  overtook  our  party  when  they 
were  about  halfway  up  the  steep  ascent  to  the  crest  of  the 
range.  Mules  and  men  were  strung  out  a  mile,  toiling  and 
climbing  up  the  almost  insurmountable  acclivity. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  wigwams,  who  had  Eed  and  concealed 


168  DIGGER  INDIANS 

themselves  until  we  had  passed,  now  commenced  whooping  far 
below  us,  and  we  could  see  several  of  them  following  our  traiL 
After  much  difficulty  in  urging  om-  animals  forward,  and  great 
fatigue  to  ourselves  and  them,  we  reached  the  simimit  of 
the  ridge.  Here  we  halted  to  take  breath.  Several  of  the 
Indians,  whose  whoops  we  had  heard,  came  up  to  us.  They 
were  naked,  and  the  most  emaciated  and  wretched  human  ob 
jects  I  had  ever  seen.  We  shook  hands,  however,  and  greeted 
them  kindly.  The  descent  on  the  western  side  of  the  mountain, 
although  steej),  is  not  difficult,  there  being  but  few  obstructions. 
Four  miles  from  the  summit  brought  us  to  a  gentle  slope, 
and  to  a  faint  stream  which  flows  from  the  hills  and  sinks  in 
the  sands  just  below.  Here  we  encamped  for  the  day.  Near 
us,  on  the  slope,  there  is  a  grove  of  small  cedars,  the  deep  ver- 
dure of  which  is  some  relief  to  the  brown  and  dead  aspect  of 
vegetable  nature  sm-roimding  us.     Distance  15  miles. 

August  2. — Morning  clear,  with  a  soft  breeze  from  the  south. 
We  were  visited  early  by  three  miserable  Digger  Indians,  calUng 
themselves  Soshonees.  They  weie  naked,  with  the  exception  of 
a  few  filthy,  ragged  skins,  fastened  around  their  loins.  They 
brought  with  them  a  mixture  composed  of  parched  simflower 
seed  and  grasshoppers,  which  they  wished  to  exchange  with  us 
for  some  articles  we  possessed.  We  decHned  trading  with  them. 
One  of  them  signified,  that  he  knew  where  there  was  water  over 
the  next  ridge  of  mountains.  Water  at  the  western  base  of 
the  next  range  would  diminish  the  long  march  without  this 
necessary  element,  over  the  great  Salt  Plain,  some  ten  or  twelve 
miles.  For  a  compensation  in  shirts  and  pantaloons,  he  con- 
sented to  accompany  and  guide  us  to  the  water;  but  when  we 
started,  he  declined  his  engagement. 

Descending  into  the  plain  or  valley  before  us,  we  took  a  north- 
>v(!St  course  across  it,  striking  Capt.  Fremont's  trail  of  last  year 
after  we  had  commenced  the  ascent  of  the  slope  on  the  wesiem 
side.  The  bi-cadtli  of  this  valley  at  this  point,  from  the  base  of 
one  range  of  mountains  to  the  other,  is  about  twenty  miles. 
Large  portion  sof  it  are  covered  with  a  saline  efflorescence  of  a 
Auovty  whiteness.     The  only  vegetation  is  the  wild  sage ;  and 


MARCH    ACROSS  THE  SALT  DESERT.  169 

this  is  parched  and  shrivelled  by  the  extreme  drought.  Not  e. 
soUtary  flower  or  green  plant  has  exliibited  itself.  In  our  march 
we  crossed  and  passed  several  deep  ravines  and  chasms, 
plowed  by  the  waters  from  the  moxm tains  during  the  melting 
of  the  snows,  or  hollowed  out  by  the  action  of  the  winds.  Not 
a  living  object,  animal,  reptile,  or  msect,  has  been  seen  during 
our  day's  march. 

We  encamped  at  two  o'clock,  p.  m.  There  are  a  few  dwarf 
cedars  in  our  vicinity,  and  scattered  bunches  of  dead  grass. 
In  a  ravine  near  us  the  sand  is  moist ;  and  by  making  an 
excavation,  we  obtained  a  scant  supply  of  water,  impregnated 
with  salt  and  sulphur.  A  dense  smoky  vapor  fills  the 
valley  and  conceals  the  simimits  of  the  distant  mountains. 
The  sun  shining  through  this,  dispenses  a  lurid  light,  coloring 
the  brown  and  bai-ren  desert  with  a  more  dismal  and  gloomy 
hue.  As  soon  as  our  afternoon  meal  had  been  prepared  and 
discussed,  we  commenced  preparations  for  the  march  over  the 
Salt  Desert  to-morrow,  which  employment  occupied  us  until  a 
late  hour  of  the  night.     Distance  20  miles. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

March  over  the  great  Salt  Desert — Preparations — Singular  illusion — Volcanic 
debris — Distant  view  of  the  great  Salt  Plain — Utter  desolation — The  mi- 
rage— Gigantic  phantoms — Fata  Morgana — Spectral  army — Tempest  ou 
the  Salt  Plain — Clouds  of  salt — Instinct  of  mules — Mule-race — Excessive 
thirst — Arrival  at  oasis,  and  spring — Buchanan's  well 

August  3. — I  rose  from  my  bivouac  this  morning  at  half-past 
one  o'clock.  The  moon  appearing  like  a  ball  of  fire,  and  shining 
with  a  dim  and  baleful  liffht,  seemed  strusfo-linor  downwards 
through  the  thick  bank  of  smoky  vapor  that  overhung  and  cur- 
tained the  high  ridge  of  mountains  to  the  west  of  us.  This 
ridge,  stretching  far  to  the  north  and  the  south  as  the  eye  can 
reach,  forms  the  western  wall  (if  I  may  so  call  it)  of  the  desert 

15 


170  SOLITUDE  AND  SILENCE. 

valley  we  had  crossed  yesterday,  and  is  composed  of  rugged, 
barren  peaks  of  dark  basaltic  rock,  sometimes  exhibiting  mis- 
shapen outlines  ;  at  others,  towering  upwards,  and  displaying  a 
variety  of  architectural  forms,  representing  domes,  spu*es,  and 
tuiTeted  fortifications. 

Our  encampment  was  on  the  slope  of  the  mountain  ;  and  the 
valley  lay  spread  out  at  om*  feet,  illuminated  sufficiently  by  the 
red  glare  of  the  moon,  and  the  more  pallid  eifulgence  of  the 
stars,  to  display  imperfectly  its  broken  and  frightful  barrenness, 
and  its  solemn  desolation.  No  life,  except  in  the  little  oasis 
occupied  by  our  camp,  and  dampened  by  the  sluggish  spring, 
by  excavating  which  with  our  hands  we  had  obtained  impure 
water  sufficient  to  quench  our  own  and  our  animals'  thirst,  ex- 
isted as  far  as  the  eye  could  penetrate  over  moimtain  and  plain. 
There  was  no  voice  of  animal,  no  hum  of  insect,  distm-bing  the 
tomb-hke  solemnity.  All  was  silence  and  death.  The  atmo- 
sphere, chill  and  frosty,  seemed  to  sympathize  with  this  sepul- 
chral stillness.  No  wailing  or  whispering  soiuids  sighed  through 
the  chasms  of  the  mountains,  or  over  the  gulfy  and  waterless 
ravines  of  the  valley.  No  rustling  zephyr  swept  over  the  scant 
dead  grass,  or  disturbed  the  crumbling  leaves  of  the  gnarled 
and  stunted  cedars,  which  seemed  to  draw  a  precarious  existence 
from  the  small  patch  of  damp  earth  suiTomiding  us.  Like  the 
other  elements  sustainins:  animal  and  veo-etable  life,  the  winds 
seemed  stagnant  and  paralyzed  by  the  universal  dearth  around. 
I  contemplated  this  scene  of  dismal  and  oppressive  solitude 
until  the  moon  sunk  behind  the  mountain,  and  object  after 
object  became  shrouded  in  its  shadow. 

Rousing  Mr.  Jacob,  who  slept  soundly,  and  after  him  the 
other  members  of  our  small  party,  (nine  in  number,)  we  com- 
menced our  preparations  for  the  long  and  much-dreaded  march 
over  the  great  Salt  Desert.  Mr.  Hudspeth,  the  gentleman  who 
had  kindly  conducted  us  thus  far  from  Foit  Bridger  as  our 
pilot,  was  to  leave  us  at  this  point,  for  the  j)urpose  of  exploring 
A  route  for  the  eraiirrant  way-ons  farther  south.  He  was  accom- 
panied  by  three  gentlemen,  Messrs.  Ferguson,  Kirk  wood,  and 
Milter.     Consequently,  from  this  tune  forward  we  are  without 


PREPARATIONS.  I7i 

a  guide,  or  any  reliable  index  to  our  destination,  except  out 
course  westward,  until  we  strike  Mary's  river  and  the  emigrant 
iraU  to  California,  which  runs  parallel  with  it,  some  two  hundred 
miles  distant.  The  march  across  the  Salt  Plain,  without  water 
or  grass,  was  variously  estimated  by  those  with  whom  I  con- 
\  ersed  at  Fort  Bridger,  at  from  sixty  to  eighty  miles.  Captain 
Walker,  an  old  and  experienced  mountaineer,  who  had  crossed 
it  at  this  point  as  the  guide  of  Captain  Fremont  and  his  party, 
estimated  the  distance  at  seventy-five  miles,  and  we  found  the 
estimate  to  be  nearly  correct. 

We  gathered  the  dead  Umbs  of  the  cedars  which  had  been 
cut  down  by  Captain  Fremont's  party  when  encamped  here  last 
autumn,  and  igniting  them,  they  gave  us  a  good  light  during 
the  preparation  and  discussion  of  our  frugal  breakfast ,  which 
consisted  to-day  of  bread  and  coffee,  bacon  being  interdicted  in 
consequence  of  its  incitement  to  thirst — a  sensation  which  at 
this  time  we  desired  to  avoid,  as  we  felt  uncertain  how  long  it 
might  be  before  we  should  be  able  to  gratify  the  unpleasant 
cravings  it  produces. 

Each  individual  of  the  party  busied  himself  around  the  bla- 
zing fires  in  making  his  various  Uttle  but  important  arrangements, 
until  the  first  gray  of  the  dawn  manifested  itself  above  the  va- 
pory bank  overhanging  the  eastern  ridge  of  mountains,  when 
the  word  to  saddle  up  being  given,  the  mules  were  brought  to 
the  camp-fires,  and  every  arm  and  muscle  of  the  party  was 
actively  employed  in  the  business  of  saddling  and  packing 
"  with  care  !" — with  unusual  care,  as  a  short  detention  during 
the  day's  march  to  readjust  the  packs  might  result  in  an  en- 
campment upon  the  desert  for  the  coming  night,  and  all  i's 
consequent  dangers,  the  death  or  loss  by  straying  in  search  f 
water  and  grass  of  our  mules,  (next  to  death  to  us,)  not  taking 
into  the  account  our  own  suffering  from  thirst,  which  for  the 
Qext  eighteen  or  twenty  hours  we  had  made  up  om*  minds  to 
endure  with  philosophical  fortitude  and  resignation.  A  small 
powder-keg,  holding  about  three  or  four  pints  of  coffee,  which 
had  teen  emptied  of  its  original  contents  for  the  purpose,  and 
filled  with  that  beverage  made  from  the  brackish  spring  ivjii* 


172  SMOKY  atmosph£:rb. 

our  camp,  was  the  only  vessel  we  possessed  in  which  we  could 
transport  water,  and  its  contents  composed  our  entire  liquid 
refreshment  for  the  march.  Instructions  were  given  to  Miller, 
who  had  charge  of  this  important  and  precious  burden,  to 
husband  it  with  miserly  care,  and  to  make  an  equitable  division 
whenever  it  should  be  called  into  use. 

Every  thing  being  ready,  Mr.  Hudspeth,  who  accompanied 
as  to  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  led  the  way.  We  passed 
upwards  through  the  Canada  [pronounced  kanyeada]  or  moon- 
lain-gorge,  at  the  mouth  of  which  we  had  encamped,  and  by  a 
comparatively  easy  and  smooth  ascent  reached  the  summit  of 
the  mountain  after  travelhng  aibout  six  miles.  Most  of  us  were 
shiveiing  with  cold,  imtil  the  sun  shone  broadly  upon  us  after 
emerging,  by  a  steep  acchvity,  from  the  gorge  through  which 
we  had  passed  to  the  top  of  the  ridge.  Here  we  should  have 
had  a  \iew  of  the  mountain  at  the  foot  of  which  our  day's  jour- 
ney was  to  terminate,  but  for  the  dense  smoke  which  hung  over 
and  filled  the  plain,  shutting  from  the  vision  all  distant  objects. 

Bidding  farewell  to  Mr.  Hudspeth  and  the  gentleman  with 
him,  (Mr.  Ferguson,)  w^e  commenced  the  descent  of  the  moun- 
tain. We  had  scarcely  parted  from  Mr.  H.  when,  standing  on 
one  of  the  peaks,  he  stretched  out  his  long  arms,  and  with  a 
voice  and  gesture  as  loud  and  impressive  as  he  could  make 
them,  he  called  to  us  and  exclaimed — "  Now,  boys,  put  spurs 
to  yoiu-  mules  and  lide  like  h — !"  The  hint  was  timely  given 
and  well  meant,  but  scarcely  necessary,  as  we  all  had  a  pretty 
just  appreciation  of  the  trials  and  hardships  before  us. 

The  descent  from  the  mountain  on  the  western  side  was  more 
difficult  than  the  ascent ;  but  two  or  three  miles,  by  a  winding 
and  precipitous  path  through  some  straggling,  stunted,  and 
tempest-bowed  cedars,  brought  us  to  the  foot  and  into  the  val- 
ley, where,  aftei-  some  search,  we  found  a  blind  trail  which  we 
supposed  to  be  that  of  Captain  Fremont,  made  last  year.  Our 
course  for  the  day  was  nearly  due  Avest ;  and  following  this  trail 
where  it  was  visible,  and  did  not  deviate  from  our  course,  and 
putting  (;ur  mules  into  a  brisk  gait,  we  crossed  a  valley  some 
eight  or  ten  miles  in  width,  sparsely  covered  with  wild  sage 


SALINE  DESEAT SINGULAR  DECEPTION.  173 

(artemisia)  and  grease-wood.  These  shrubs  display  themselves 
and  maintain  a  dying  existence,  a  brownish  verdure,  on  the  most 
arid  and  sterile  plains  and  mountains  of  the  desert,  where  no 
other  vegetation  shows  itself.  After  crossing  the  valley,  we  rose 
a  ridge  of  low  volcanic  hills,  thickly  strewn  with  sharp  fragments 
of  basaltes  and  a  \'itreous  gravel  resembling  jmik-bottle  glass. 
We  passed  over  this  ridge  through  a  narrow  gap,  the  walls  of 
which  are  perpendicular,  and  composed  of  the  same  dark  sco- 
rious  material  as  the  debris  strewn  around.  From  the  western 
terminus  of  this  ominous-looking  passage  we  had  a  view  of  the 
vast  desert-plain  before  us,  which,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  pen- 
etrate, was  of  a  snowy  whiteness,  and  resembled  a  scene  of 
wintry  frosts  and  icy  desolation.  Not  a  shrub  or  object  of  any 
kind  rose  above  the  surface  for  the  eye  to  rest  upon.  The 
*aiatus  in  tlie  animal  and  vegetable  kingdoms  was  perfect.  It 
NV'as  a  scene  which  excited  mingled  emotions  of  admiration  and 
apprehension. 

Passing  a  little  fui-ther  on,  we  stood  on  the  brow  of  a  steep 
precipice,  the  descent  from  the  ridge  of  hills,  immediately  below 
and  beyond  which  a  narrow  valley  or  depression  in  the  sur- 
face of  the  plain,  about  five  miles  m  width,  displayed  so  per- 
fectly the  wavy  and  frothy  appearance  of  highly  agitated  water, 
that  Colonel  Russell  and  myself,  who  were  riding  together  some 
distance  in  advance,  both  simultaneously  exclaimed — "  We  must 
have  taken  a  wrong  co'orse,  and  stnick  another  arm  or  bay  of 
the  Great  Salt  Lake."  With  deep  concern,  we  were  looking 
around,  surveying  the  'face  of  the  country  to  ascertain  what 
■-emedy  there  might  be  for  this  formidable  obstruction  to  our 
progress,  when  the  remainder  of  our  party  came  up.  The  dif- 
ficulty was  presented  to  them  ;  but  soon,  upon  a  more  calm  and 
scrutinizing  inspection,  we  discovered  that  what  represented  so 
perfectly  the  "  rushing  waters "  was  moveless,  and  made  no 
sound  !  The  illusion  soon  became  manifest  to  all  of  us,  and  a 
Uearty  laugh  at  those  who  were  the  first  to  be  deceived  was  the 
consequence ;  denying  to  them  the  merit  of  being  good  pilots 
vr  pioneers,  etc. 

Descending  the  precipitous  elevation  upon  which  we  stood, 
1§* 


174  DRIFTING  ASHES MIRAGE. 

we  entered  upon  the  liard  smooth  plain  we  had  just  been  S'or- 
veying  with  so  much  doubt  and  interest,  composed  of  bluish 
clay,  incrusted,  in  wavy  lines,  with  a  white  saline  substance,  the 
first  representing  the  body  of  the  Avater,  and  the  last  the  crests 
and  froth  of  the  mimic  waves  and  surges.  Beyond  this  we 
crossed  what  appeared  to  have  been  the  beds  of  several  small 
lakes,  the  waters  of  which  have  evaporated,  thickly  incrusted 
with  salt,  and  separated  from  each  other  by  small  mound- 
shaped  elevations  of  a  white,  sandy,  or  ashy  earth,  so  imponder- 
ous  that  it  has  been  driven  by  the  action  of  the  winds  into  these 
heaps,  which  are  constantly  changing  their  positions  and  their 
shapes.  Our  mules  waded  through  these  ashy  imdvdations, 
sometimes  sinking  to  their  knees,  at  others  to  their  bellies,  cre- 
ating a  dust  that  rose  above  and  hung  over  us  like  a  dense  fog. 

From  this  point  on  our  right  and  left,  diagonally  in  our  front, 
at  an  apparent  distance  of  thirty  or  forty  miles,  high  isolated 
mountains  rise  abruptly  from  the  surface  of  the  plain.  Those 
on  our  left  were  as  white  as  the  snow-like  face  of  the  desert, 
and  may  be  of  the  same  composition,  but  I  am  inclined  to  the 
behef  that  they  are  composed  of  white  clay,  or  clay  and  sand 
intermingled. 

The  mirage,  a  beautiful  phenomenon  I  have  frequently  men- 
tioned as  exhibiting  itself  upon  our  journey,  here  displayed  its 
wonderful  illusions,  in  a  perfection  and  with  a  magnificence  sur- 
passing any  presentation  of  the  kind  I  had  previously  seen. 
Lakes,  dotted  with  islands  and  bordered  by  groves  of  gently 
waving  timber,  whose  tranquil  and  hmjJid  waves  reflected  their 
sloping  banks  and  the  shady  islets  in  their  bosoms,  lay  spread 
out  before  us,  inviting  us,  by  tlieir  illusory  temptations,  to  stray 
from  our  path  and  enjoy  their  coohng  shades  and  refreshing 
waters.  These  fading  away  as  we  advanced,  beautiful  villas, 
adorn(;d  with  edifices,  decorated  with  all  the  ornaments  of  sub- 
urban arcliitecture,  and  surrounded  by  gardens,  shaded  walks, 
parks,  and  stately  avenues,  would  succeed  tliem,  renewing  the 
alluring  invitation  to  repose,  by  enticing  fhe  vision  with  more 
than  Calypsan  enjoyments  or  Elysian  pleaa..res.  Tliese  melting 
from  our  view  us  tliose  before,  in  another  place  a  vast  city,  with 


THE  HOARY  DESERT  175 

countless  columned  edifices  of  marble  whiteness,  and  studded 
with  domes,  spires,  and  txirreted  towers,  would  rise  upon  the 
horizon  of  the  plain,  astonishing  us  with  its  stupendous  grandeur 
and  subhme  magnificence.  But  it  is  in  vain  to  attempt  a  de- 
scription of  these  singular  and  extraordmary  phenomena. 
Neither  prose  or  poetry,  nor  the  pencil  of  the  artist,  can  ade- 
quately portray  their  beauties.  The  whole  distant  view  around, 
at  this  point,  seemed  like  the  creations  of  a  sublime  and  gor- 
geous dream,  or  the  effect  of  enchantment.  I  observed  that 
where  these  appearances  were  presented  in  their  most  varied 
forms,  and  with  the  most  vivid  distinctness,  the  surface  of  the 
plain  was  broken,  either  by  chasms  hollowed  out  from  the  action 
of  the  winds,  or  by  undulations  formed  of  the  drifting  sands. 

About  eleven  o'clock  we  struck  a  vast  white  plain,  uniformly 
level,  and  utterly  destitute  of  vegetation  or  any  sign  that  shrub 
or  plant  had  ever  existed  above  its  snow-like  surface.  Pausing 
a  few  moments  to  rest  our  mules,  and  moisten  our  mouths  and 
throats  from  the  scant  supply  of  beverage  in  our  powder-keg, 
we  entered  upon  this  appalling  field  of  sullen  and  hoary  desola- 
tion. It  was  a  scene  so  entirely  new  to  us,  so  frightfully  forbid- 
ding and  unearthly  in  its  aspects,  that  all  of  us,  I  beheve, 
though  impressed  with  its  sublimity,  felt  a  slight  sliudder  of 
apprehension.  Our  mules  seemed  to  sympathize  with  us  in  the 
pervading  sentiment,  and  moved  forward  with  reluctance,  sev- 
eral of  them  stubbornly  setting  their  faces  for  a  countermarch. 

For  fifteen  mUes  the  surface  of  this  plain  is  so  compact,  that 
the  feet  of  our  animals,  'as  we  hurried  them  along  over  it,  left 
but  little  if  any  impression  for  the  guidance  of  the  future  trav- 
eller. It  is  covered  with  a  hard  crust  of  saline  and  alkaline 
substances  combined,  from  one-fourth  to  one-half  of  an  inch  in 
thickness,  beneath  which  is  a  stratum  of  damp  whitish  sand  and 
clay  intermingled.  Small  fragments  of  white  shelly  rock,  of  an 
inch  and  a  half  in  thickness,  which  appear  as  if  they  once  com- 
posed a  cnist,  but  had  been  broken  by  the  action  of  the  atmo- 
sphere or  the  pressure  of  water  rising  from  beneath,  are  strewn 
OTer  the  entire  plain  and  imbedded  in  the  salt  and  sand. 

As  we  moved  onward,  a  member  of  our  party  in  the  real 


176  GIGANTIC  PHANTOMS. 

called  our  attention  to  a  gigantic  moving  object  on  our  left,  at 
an  apparent  distance  of  six  or  eight  mQes.  It  is  very  difficult 
to  determine  distances  accurately  on  these  plains.  Your  esti- 
mate is  based  upon  the  probable  dimensions  of  the  object,  and 
unless  you  know  what  the  object  is,  and  its  probable  size,  you 
are  liable  to  great  deception.  The  atmosphere  seems  frequent- 
ly to  act  as  a  magnifier ;  so  much  so,  that  I  have  often  seen  a 
raven  perched  upon  a  low  shrub  or  an  undulation  of  the  plain, 
answering  to  the  outhnes  of  a  man  on  horseback.  But  this 
object  was  so  enormously  large,  considering  its  apparent  dis 
tance,  and  its  movement  forward,  parallel  with  ours,  so  distinct, 
that  it  greatly  excited  our  wonder  and  c\iriosity.  Many  and 
various  were  the  conjectm-es  (serious  and  facetious)  of  the  party, 
as  to  what  it  might  be,  or  portend.  Some  thought  it  might  be 
Mr.  Hudspeth,  who  had  concluded  to  follow  us ;  otliers  that  it  was 
some  Cyclopean  nondescript  animal,  lost  upon  the  desert ;  others 
that  it  was  the  ghost  of  a  mammoth  or  Megatherium  wandering 
on  "  this  rendezvous  of  death  ;"  others  that  it  was  the  d — 1  mount- 
ed on  an  Ibis,  &c.  It  was  the  general  conclusion,  however,  that 
no  animal  composed  of  flesh  and  blood,  or  even  a  healthy  ghost, 
could  here  inhabit.  A  partner  of  equal  size  soon  joined  it,  and 
for  an  hour  or  more  they  moved  along  as  before,  parallel  to  us 
when  they  disappeared,  apparently  behind  the  horizon. 

As  we  proceeded,  the  plain  gradually  became  softer,  and  our 
mules  sometimes  sunk  to  then-  knees  in  the  stiff  composition  of 
salt,  sand,  and  clay.  The  travelling  at  length  became  so  diffi- 
cult and  fatiguing  to  our  animals  that  several  of  the  party  dis- 
mounted, (myself  among  the  number,)  and  we  consequently 
slackened  our  hitherto  brisk  pace  into  a  walk.  About  two 
o'clock,  I'.  M.,  we  discovered  through  the  smoky  vapor  the  dim 
outlines  of  the  mountains  in  front  of  us,  at  the  foot  of  which 
was  to  terminate  our  day's  marcli,  if  we  were  so  fortunate  as  to 
reach  it.  But  still  we  were  a  long  and  weary  distance  from  it, 
and  from  tlie  "  grass  and  water"  which  we  expected  there  to 
find.  A  cloud  rose  from  tlie  south  soon  afterwards,  accom- 
panied by  several  distant  peals  of  thunder,  and  a  furious  wind, 
rushing    across   the    plain   and    filling    the    whole  atmosphere 


SPECTRAL  ARMY FATA  MORGANA.  IT"? 

aroTind  us  with  the  fine  particles  of  salt,  and  drifting  it  in  heaps 
like  the  newly  fallen  snow.  Our  eyes  became  nearly  blinded 
and  our  throats  choked  with  the  saline  matter,  and  the  very 
air  we  breathed  tasted  of  salt. 

During  the  subsidence  of  this  tempest,  there  appeared  upon 
the  plain  one  of  the  most  extraordinary  phenomena,  I  dare  to 
assert,  ever  witnessed.  As  I  have  before  stated,  I  had  dis- 
mounted from  my  mule,  and  turning  it  in  with  the  caballada, 
was  walking  several  rods  in  front  of  the  party,  in  order  to  lead 
in  a  direct  course  to  the  point  of  our  destination.  Diagonally 
in  front,  to  the  right,  our  course  being  west,  there  appeared 
the  figures  of  a  number  of  men  and  horses,  some  fifteen  or 
twenty.  Some  of  these  figures  were  mounted  and  others  dis- 
mounted, and  appeared  to  be  marching  on  foot.  Their  faces 
and  the  heads  of  the  horses  were  turned  towards  us,  and  at 
first  they  appeared  as  if  they  were  rushmg  down  upon  us. 
Their  apparent  distance,  judging  from  the  horizon,  was  from 
three  to  five  mUes.  But  their  size  was  not  correspondent,  for 
they  seemed  nearly  as  large  as  our  own  bodies,  and  consequently 
were  of  gigantic  stature.  At  the  first  view  I  supposed  them  to 
be  a  small  party  of  Indians  (probably  the  Utahs)  marchmg  from 
the  opposite  side  of  the  plain.  But  this  seemed  to  me  scarcely 
probable,  as  no  hunting  or  war  party  would  be  likely  to  take 
this  route.  I  called  to  some  of  om-  party  nearest  to  me  to 
hasten  forward,  as  there  were  men  in  front,  coming  towards  us. 
Very  soon  the  fifteen  or  twenty  figures  were  multiphed  into 
three  or  four  hundred,  and  appeared  to  be  marching  forward 
with  the  greatest  action  and  speed.  I  then  conjectured  that 
they  might  be  Capt.  Fremont  and  his  party  with  others,  from 
California,  returning  to  the  United  States  by  this  route,  although 
they  seemed  to  be  too  numerous  even  for  this.  I  spoke  to  Biown,^, 
who  was  nearest  to  me,  and  asked  him  if  he  noticed  the  figures 
of  men  and  horses  in  front  ?  He  answered  that  he  did,  and  that 
he  had  observed  the  same  appearances  several  times  previously, 
but  that  they  had  disappeared,  and  he  believed  them  to  be  op 
tical  illusions  similar  to  the  mirage.  It  was  then,  for  the  fii'st 
time,  so  perfect  was  the  deception,  that  I  conjectured  the  prob- 


178  SPECTRAL   -ARM":  — FATA  MORGA^A. 

able  fact  that  these  figures  were  the  reflection  of  our  owr 
images  by  the  atmosphere,  filled  as  it  was  with  fine  particles 
of  crystallized  matter,  or  by  the  distant  horizon,  covered  by  the 
same  substance.  This  induced  a  more  minute  observation  of 
the  phenomenon,  in  order  to  detect  the  deception,  if  such  it 
were.  I  noticed  a  single  figure,  apparently  in  front  in  advance 
of  all  the  others,  and  was  struck  with  its  likeness  to  myself. 
Its  motions,  too,  I  thought,  were  the  same  as  mine.  To  test  the 
hypothesis  above  suggested,  I  wheeled  suddenly  around,  at  the 
same  time  stretching  my  arms  out  to  their  full  length,  and 
tm'ning  my  face  side"\vise  to  notice  the  movements  of  this  figure. 
It  went  through  precisely  the  same  motions.  I  then  marched 
deliberately  and  with  long  strides  several  paces ;  the  figure  did 
the  same.  To  test  it  more  thoroughly,  I  repeated  the  experi- 
ment, and  with  the  same  result.  The  fact  then  was  cleaf .  But 
it  was  more  fully  verified  still,  for  the  whole  array  of  this  nu- 
merous shadowy  host  in  the  course  of  an  hour  melted  entirely 
away,  and  was  no  more  seen.  The  phenomenon,  however, 
explained  and  gave  the  history  of  the  gigantic  spectres  which 
appeared  and  disappeared  so  mysteriously  at  an  earlier  hour  of 
the  day.  The  figures  were  our  own  shadows,  produced  and 
reproduced  by  the  mirror-like  composition  impregnating  the 
atmosphere  and  covering  the  plain.  I  cannot  here  more  par- 
ticularly explain  or  refer  to  the  subject.  But  this  phantom  pop- 
ulation, springing  out  of  the  ground  as  it  were,  and  arraying 
itself  before  us  as  we  traversed  this  dreary  and  heaven-con- 
demned waste,  although  we  were  entirely  convinced  of  the 
cause  of  the  apparition,  excited  those  superstitious  emotions  so 
natural  to  all  mankind. 

About  five  o'clock,  v.  m.,  we  reached  and  passed,  leaving  it 
to  our  left,  a  small  butte  rising  solitary  from  the  plain.  Aroimd 
this  the  ground  is  uneven,  and  a  few  scattering  shrubs,  leafless 
and  without  verdurf ,  raised  themselves  above  the  white  sand 
and  saline  matter,  which  seemed  recently  to  have  drifted  so  as 
nearly  to  conceal  them.  Eight  miles  brought  us  to  the  north- 
«rn  end  of  a  short  range  of  mountains,  turning  the  point  of 
which  and  bending  our  course  to  the  left,  we  gradually  cam' 

# 


INDIA.N  SIGNAL-FIRES.  179 

upon  higher  ground,  composed  of  compact  volcanic  gravel.     I 

was  here  considerably  in  the  rear,  ha\ang  made  a  detour 
towards  the  base  of  the  butte  and  thence  towards  the  centre  of 
the  short  range  of  mountains,  to  discover,  if  such  existed,  a 
spring  of  water.  I  saw  no  such  joyful  presentation  nor  any  of 
the  usual  indications,  and  when  I  reached  and  turned  the  point, 
the  whole  party  were  several  miles  ahead  of  me,  and  out  of 
sight.  Congratulating  myself  that  I  stood  once  more  on  terra 
firma,  I  urged  my  tired  mule  forward  with  all  the  life  and 
activity  that  spm*  and  whip  could  inspire  her  with,  passing 
down  the  range  of  mountains  on  my  left  some  four  or  five  miles, 
and  then  rising  some  rocky  hills  connecting  this  with  a  long 
and  high  range  of  mountains  on  my  right.  The  distance  across 
these  hills  is  about  seven  or  eight  miles.  When  I  had  reached 
the  most  elevated  point  of  this  ridge  the  sim  was  setting,  and 
I  saw  my  fellow-travellers  still  far  in  advance  of  me,  entering 
again  upon  a  plain  or  valley  of  salt,  some  ten  or  twelve  miles 
in  breadth.  On  the  opposite  side  of  this  valley  rose  abruptly 
and  to  a  high  elevation  another  mountain,  at  the  foot  of  which 
we  expected  to  find  the  spring  of  fresh  water  that  was  to  quench 
our  thirst,  and  revive  and  sustain  the  drooping  energies  of  our 
faithful  beasts. 

About  midway  upwards,  in  a  canada  of  this  mountain,  I  no- 
ticed the  smoke  of  a  fire,  which  apparently  had  just  been 
kindled,  as  doubtless  it  had  been,  by  Indians,  who  were  then 
there,  and  had  discovered  our  party  on  the  white  plain  below ; 
it  being  the  custom  of  these  Indians  to  make  signals  by  fire  and 
smoke,  whenever  they  notice  strange  objects.  Proceeding  on- 
ward, I  overtook  an  old  and  favorite  pack-mule,  which  we 
familiarly  called  "Old  Jeimy."  She  canied  our  meat  and 
floi.ir — all  that  we  possessed  in  fact — as  a  sustenance  of  life. 
Her  pack  had  turned,  and  her  burden,  instead  of  being  on  her 
back  was  suspended  under  her  belly.  With  that  sagacity 
and  discretion  so  characteristic  of  the  Mexican  pack-mule, 
being  behind  and  following  the  party  in  advance,  she  had 
stopped  short  in  the  road  until  some  one  should  come  to  re- 
arrange her  cargo  and  place  it  on  deck  instead  of  vmder  the 


180  ANIMAL    INSTINCT A    CHALLENGE. 

keel.  I  dismounted  and  A%ent  through,  by  myself,  the  ralhej 
tedious  and  laborious  process  of  unpacking  and  repacking;. 
This  done,  "  Old  Jenny"  set  forward  upon  a  fast  gallop  to 
overtake  her  companions  ahead,  and  my  own  mule,  as  if  not  to 
be  outdone  in  the  race,  followed  in  the  same  gait.  "  Old 
Jenny,"  however,  maintained  the  honors  of  the  race,  keeping 
considerably  ahead.  Both  of  them,  by  that  instinct  or  faculty- 
which  mules  undoubtedly  possess,  had  scented  the  water  on 
the  other  side  of  the  valley,  and  their  pangs  of  extreme  thirst 
lu-ged  them  forward  at  this  extraordinary  speed,  after  the  long 
and  laborious  march  they  had  made,  to  obtain  it. 

As  I  advanced  over  the  plain — which  was  covered  with  a 
thicker  crust  of  salt  than  that  pre\aously  desoibed,  breaking 
imder  the  feet  of  the  animals  like  a  cnist  of  frozen  snow — the 
spreading  of  the  fires  in  the  Canada  of  the  mountain  appeared 
with  great  distinctness.  The  line  of  lights  was  regular  like 
camp-fires,  and  I  was  more  than  half  inclined  to  hope  that  we 
should  meet  and  be  welcomed  by  an  encampment  of  civilized 
men — either  hunters,  or  a  party  from  the  Pacific  bound  home 
wards.  The  moon  shone  out  abotit  nine  o'clock,  displaying  and 
illuminating  the  unnatural,  unearthly  dreariness  of  the  scenery. 

"  Old  Jenny"  for  some  time  had  so  far  beat  me  in  the  race 
as  to  be  out  of  my  sight,  and  I  out  of  the  sound  of  her  foot- 
steps. I  was  entirely  alone,  and  enjoying,  as  well  as  a  man  could 
with  a  crust  of  salt  in  his  nostrils  and  over  his  lips,  and  a  husky 
mouth  and  throat,  the  singularity  of  my  situation,  when  I  ob- 
served, about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  advance  of  me,  a  dark,  station- 
ary object  standing  in  the  midst  of  the  hoary  scenery.  I  sup- 
posed it  to  be  "  Old  Jenny"  in  trouble  once  more  about  her 
pack.  But  coming  up  to  a  speaking  distance,  I  was  challenged 
in  a  loud  voice  with  the  usual  guard-salutation,  "  Who  comes 
there  ?"  Having  no  countersign,  I  gave  the  common  response 
in  such  cases,  "  A  friend."  This  appeared  to  be  satisfactory,  for 
I  heard  no  report  ci  pistol  or  rifle,  and  no  arrow  took  its  sound- 
less flight  through  my  body.  I  rode  up  to  the  object  and  dis- 
covered it  to  be  Buchanan  sitting  upon  his  mule,  which  had 
become  so  much  exhausted  that  it  occasionally  refused  to  gc 


THIRST WATER.  181 

along,  notwithstanding  his  industrious  application  of  the  usua, 
incentives  to  progress.  He  said  that  he  had  supposed  liimself  to 
be  the  "last  man,"  before  "  Old  Jenny"  passed,  who  had  given 
him  a  surprise,  and  he  was  quite  thunderstruck  when  an  ani- 
mal, mounted  by  a  man,  came  charging  upon  him  in  his  half' 
crippled  condition.  After  a  good  laugh  and  some  httle  delay 
and  diflSculty,  we  got  his  mule  under  way  again,  and  rode 
slowly  along  together. 

We  left,  to  us,  in  our  tired  condition,  the  seemingly  inter- 
minable plain  of  salt,  and  entered  upon  the  sagey  slope  of  tht 
mountain  about  10  o'clock.  Hallooing  as  loudly  as  we  coulcf 
raise  our  voices,  we  obtained,  by  a  response,  the  direction  of 
our  party  who  had  preceded  us,  and  after  some  difficulty  in 
making  our  way  through  the  sage,  grass,  and  willows,  (the  last 
a  certain  indication  of  water  in  the  desert,)  we  came  to  where 
they  had  discovered  a  faint  stream  of  water,  and  made  their 
camp.  Men  and  mules,  on  their  first  arrival,  as  Ave  learned,  had 
madly  rushed  into  the  stream  and  drank  together  of  its  muddy 
waters, — made  muddy  by  their  own  disturbance  of  its  shallow 
channel  and  sluggish  current. 

Delay  of  gratification  frequently  gives  a  temporary  relief  to 
the  cravings  of  hunger.  The  s«,me  remark  is  applicable  to 
thirst.  Some  hours  previously  I  had  felt  the  pangs  of  thirst 
with  an  acuteness  almost  amounting  to  an  agony.  Now,  when 
I  had  reached  the  spot  where  I  could  gratify  my  desires  in  this 
respect,  they  were  greatly  diminished.  My  first  care  was  to  un- 
saddle my  mule  and  lead  it  to  the  stream,  and  my  next  to  take 
a  survey  of  the  position  of  our  encampment.  I  then  procured 
a  cup  of  muddy  water,  and  drank  it  off  with  a  good  relish. 
The  fires  before  noticed  were  still  blazing  brightly  above  us  on 
tlie  side  of  the  mountain,  but  those  who  had  hghted  them,  had 
given  no  other  signal  of  their  proximity.  The  moon  shone  bril- 
liantly, and  Jacob,  Buchanan,  McCkuy,  and  myself,  concluded 
we  would  trace  the  small  stream  of  water  until  we  could  find 
the  fountain  spring.  After  considerable  search  among  the  reeds, 
willow,  and  luxuriant  grass,  we  discovered  a  spring.  Buchan- 
an was  so  eager  to  obtain  a  draught  of  cold,  pure  water,  that 

16 


182  THE    OASIS BOTTOMLESS    WELL. 

in  dipping  his  cup  for  this  purpose,  the  yielding  weeds  undei 
him  gave  way,  and  he  sank  into  the  basin,  from  which  he  Avas 
drawn  out  after  a  good  "  ducking,"  by  one  of  those  present. 
The  next  morning  this  basin  was  sounded  to  the  depth  of  thirty- 
five  feet,  and  no  bottom  found.  We  named  this  spring  "Bu- 
chanan's well."  We  lighted  no  fires  to-night,  and  prepared 
no  evening  meal.  Worn  down  by  the  hard  day's  travel,  aftei 
relieving  our  thh'st  we  spread  our  blankets  upon  the  ground, 
and  laying  our  bodies  upon  them,  slept  soundly  in  the  brighl 
moonshine.  Several  of  our  party  had  been  on  the  road  up- 
wards of  seventeen  hours,  without  water  or  refreshment  of  any 
kind,  except  a  small  draught  of  cold  coffee  from  our  powder- 
keg,  made  of  the  salt  sulphur-water  at  our  last  encampment, 
and  had  travelled  the  distance  of  seventy-five  miles.  The  Salt 
Plain  has  never  at  this  place,  so  far  as  I  could  understand, 
been  crossed  but  twice  previously  by  civilized  men,  and  in  these 
instances  two  days  were  occupied  in  performing  the  journey. 
Distance  75  miles. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

The  oasis — Anxiety  respecting  our  animals — Prodigious  tall  grass — Deserted 
Indian  huts — Old  trail  of  lost  wagons — Dosort  valley — Extinct  volcanoes 
— Mountain  spring — Elevated  camp — Vast  extent  of  the  Salt  Plain — Sub- 
limity of  scenery — Moonlight  view — Sunrise — Indian  picket  or  game-trap 
— Another  oasis — Altercation — Extreme  heat  of  the  sun — Wells  in  the  des- 
ert— More  desert  valleys — Stream  of  running  water — View  of  MaryV 
River,  and  valley — Indian  signal-fires. 

August  4. — We  did  not  lise  from  om-  grassy  couches  this 
morning  until  the  sun  shone  brcadly  and  bright  ipon  us,  above 
the  distant  mountain  ridges  to  the  east.  The  scene  around, 
with  the  exception  of  the  small  but  highly  fertile  oasis  encir- 
cling our  encampment,  is  a  mixture  of  brown  and  hoary  barren- 
ness, aridity,  and  desolation,  of  which  no  adequate  conception 


REFLECTIONS TALL  GRASS.  183 

can  be  conveyed  by  langiiage.  The  fii-es  in  the  Canada  of  the 
mountain  were  still  smoking,  but  no  blaze  was  discernible.  Last 
night  they  appeared  as  if  not  more  than  half  a  mile  or  a  mile 
distant ;  but  considerably  to  our  surprise  this  morning,  by  a  day- 
liglit  observation,  we  saw  that  the  canada,  from  whence  the 
smoke  was  cm-ling  upwards  in  graceful  wreaths,  was  some 
four  or  five  miles  from  us. 

Our  first  care  was  to  look  after  and  collect  together  the 
animals,  which,  upon  our  arrival  last  night,  we  had  let  loose  to 
refresh  themselves  in  the  manner  most  agreeable  to  them.  We 
found  them  busily  employed  in  cropping  the  tall  seeded  grass 
of  the  oasis.  The  anxieties  respecting  the  health,  strength,  and 
safety  of  our  animals,  constitute  one  of  the  most  considerable 
drawbacks  upon  the  pleasm-es  of  our  trip, — pleasures,  as  the 
reader  may  suppose,  derived  almost  exclusively  from  the  sub- 
lime and  singular  novelties  presented  to  the  -s-ision.  The  signifi- 
cance of  the  word  is  in  no  other  respect  applicable  to  this  stage 
of  our  journey.  To  fathom  the  motives  of  an  all- wise  Providence, 
in  creating  so  vast  a  field  of  desolation ;  to  detei'mine  in  our 
minds  whether  the  little  oases  we  meet  with  are  the  beginnings 
of  a  system  or  process  of  fertilization  which  is  to  ramify  and 
extend,  and  to  render  this  hitherto  abandoned  and  uninhabitable 
waste  a  garden  of  flowers,  teeming  with  its  millions  of  life  ;  or 
whether  they  are  evidences  of  the  last  expirmg  struggles  of 
nature  to  sustain  animal  and  vegetable  existence,  which  will 
leave  this  expansive  region  impenetrable  to  the  curiosity  of  man, 
furnish  a  study  for  the  thoughts,  fruitful  of  interest  and  provo- 
cative of  investigation. 

For  the  pmpose  of  resting  and  recruiting  our  over-labored 
mides,  we  had  predetermined  to  remain  encamped  to-day. 
"We  cleared  away  with  our  hands  and  willow  sticks  the  thickly- 
matted  grass  and  weeds  around  "  Buchanan's  well,"  making  a 
hacdsome  basin,  some  five  or  six  feet  in  diameter.  The  water 
is  very  cold  and  pure,  and  tasted  to  us  more  delicious  than  any 
of  the  invented  beverages  of  the  epiciu'e  to  him.  While  engaged 
in  this  work.  Brown  brought  forward  a  remarkable  blade  of 
grass  which  he  had  pulled  up  a  short  distance  from  us,  to  which 


184  RECONNAISSANCE INDIAN    HUTS. 

he  called  my  attention,  and  desired  its  measurement.  Ii  was 
measured  and  found  to  be  thirty-five  feet  in  length.  The 
diameter  of  the  stalk  was  about  half  of  an  inch,  and  the  dis- 
tance between  the  joints  about  eighteen  inches.  It  was  heavily 
seeded  at  the  top.  With  this  prodigiously  tall  vegetable  pro- 
duction, we  endeavored  to  sound  the  depth  of  the  spring ;  but 
after  thn»«ting  it  down  to  its  full  length  we  could  discover  ao 
bottom. 

In  the  afternoon  we  saw  two  antelopes  above  us.  Col.  Rus- 
sell and  Miller  saddled  theh  mules  and  rode  further  up  the 
slope  of  the  mountain,  for  the  purpose  of  hunting  and  to  make 
other  disc'>veries.  During  their  absence  a  very  dark  cloud  rose 
from  the  west,  accompanied  by  distant  thunder  and  a  strong 
wind.  Tb<?  indications,  judging  as  we  would  of  the  signs  on 
the  Atlantic  side '  of  the  continent,  were  that  we  should  have  a 
heavy  shower  of  rain ;  but  our  experience  in  this  dry  region  had 
beeo  such,  that  we  felt  but  little  dread  of  all  the  waters  in  the 
clouds.  A  few  sprinkling  drops  of  rain  fell ;  just  enough  to 
leave  a  scarcely  perceptible  moisture  upon  the  grass.  Col.  R. 
and  M.  returning,  reported  that  they  had  killed  no  game.  They 
found  a  small  running  stream  of  water  from  the  canada  where 
the  fires  were  burning,  which  sank  in  the  sands  and  debris  of 
the  mountain  before  it  reached  the  valley ;  and  they  also  saw 
three  Indian  huts,  constructed  of  cedars  and  grass,  but  unoccu- 
pied. The  occupants  of  these  huts,  doubtless,  after  making 
their  signal-fires  upon  discovering  us,  had  all  fled.  Theh  prob- 
able motive  for  inhabiting  temporarily  this  dismal  region,  was  to 
trap  for  the  few  animals  which  roam  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
spring,  and  are  compelled  to  approach  it  for  water  and  grass. 

During  the  course  of  our  journey,  nothing  has  contiibuted  so 
largely  to  the  depression  of  the  spirits  of  our  small  party  as 
inaction.  I  found  to-day  that  the  absence  of  oui  usual  active 
employments,  added  to  the  de  olate  aspect  of  the  scenery  sur- 
rounding us,  had  jjroduced  much  despondency  in  the  minds  of 
several  of  our  ci^mpany  ;  and  1  felt  a  strong  desire  myself  to  be 
moving  forward,  to  throw  ofi"  those  formidable  mental  iucubi, 
timui  and  melancholy. 


jufl 


OLD  TRAIL LOST  EMIGRANTS.  185 

August  5.  —A  most  delightful,  clear  morning,  with  a  light, 
soft  breeze  from  the  south  fanning  the  parched  and  arid  desert, 
playing  over  the  waving  grass,  and  sporting  with  the  silvery 
leaves  of  the  willows  of  the  oasis. 

Our  mules,  notwithstanding  the  day's  rest  we  had  allowed 
them  after  the  longf  and  laborious  ride  over  the  Salt  Plain, 
evinced  much  stifihess  and  exhaustion.  We  took  a  southwest 
course  along  the  slope  of  the  range  of  mountains  under  which 
we  had  encamped.  This  slope  is  covered  with  a  debris  of  gravel 
and  sharp  fragments  of  dark  volcanic  rock,  and  is  fuiTowed  from 
the  base  of  the  mountains  down  to  the  verge  of  the  plain  with 
deep  and  almost  impassable  ravines.  The  hoary  and  utterly 
desolate  plain  of  salt  on  our  left  expands  in  breadth,  and 
stretches,  interminably  to  the  eye,  away  to  the  southeast  and 
the  southwest.  The  brisk  breeze  ha\Tng  cleared  the  atmo- 
sphere of  the  smoke,  our  view  is  much  more  extensive  than  it 
was  yesterday. 

After  travelhng  about  ten  miles  we  struck  a  wagon-trail, 
which  evidently  had  been  made  several  years.  From  the 
indentations  of  the  wheels,  where  the  earth  was  soft,  five  or  six 
wagons  had  passed  here.  The  appearance  of  this  trail  in  this 
desolate  region  was  at  first  inexplicable ;  but  I  soon  recollected 
that  some  five  or  six  years  ago  an  emigrating  expedition  to 
California  was  fitted  out  by  Colonel  Bartlettson,  Mr.  J.  Chiles, 
and  others,  of  Missouri,  who,  imder  the  guidance  of  Captain 
Walker,  attempted  to  enter  California  by  passing  roimd  the 
southern  terminus  of  the  Sierra  Nevada ;  and  that  they  were 
finally  compelled  to  abandon  their  wagons  and  every  thing  they 
had,  and  did  not  reach  their  destination  until  they  had  suffered 
incredible  hardships  and  privations.  This,  it  appeared  to  me, 
was  evidently  their  trail ;  and  old  as  it  was,  and  scarcely  per- 
ceivable, it  was  nevertheless  some  gratification  to  us  that  civil- 
ized human  beings  had  passed  here  before,  and  left  their  mark 
upon  the  barren  earth  behind  them.  My  conjectures,  above 
stated,  have  been  subsequently  confirmed  by  a  conversation 
with  Mr.  Chiles. 

Following  this  old  trail  some  two  or  three  miles,  we  left  it  on 
16* 


186  DESERT  VALLEYS EXTINCT  TOLCANO. 

the  right,  and  crossed  some  low  and  totally  barren  hills,  which 
appear  to  have  beeoi  thrown  up  by  the  action  of  volcanic  firea 
at  no  very  remote  period  of  geological  history.  They  are  com- 
posed of  a  white,  imponderous  earth,  resembling  ashes,  inter- 
mingled with  fragments  of  scoria,  resembUng  the  cinders  from 
an  hon-fomidiy,  or  a  blacksmith's  furnace.  A  vitreous  gravel, 
or  glass,  was  also  thickly  strewn  over  the  smface,  and  glittered 
brightly  in  the  simbeams. 

From  these  hills,  changing  our  coui'se  more  to  the  west,  we 
descended  into  a  spacious  and  level  valley,  about  fifteen  miles 
in  width,  and  stretcliing  north  and  south  as  far  as  the  vision 
could  penetrate.  A  continuous  range  of  high  mountains  bounds 
this  valley  on  the  west,  and  a  broken  and  irregular  range  on  the 
east.  The  only  vegetation  consists  of  patches  of  wild  sage,  and 
a  shrub  ornamented  with  a  yellow  flower,  resembling  the  Scotch 
broom  of  our  gardens.  A  considerable  portion  of  the  plain  is 
covered  vrith  salt,  or  composed  of  a  white,  barren  clay,  so  com- 
pact that  our  horses'  hoofs  scarcely  left  an  impression  upon  it. 
Crossing  this  valley,  we  entered  the  range  of  mountains  on  the 
west  of  it  by  a  naiTow  gorge,  and  following  its  windings,  we 
reached  the  foot  of  the  steep  dividing  ridge  about  six  o'clock, 
p.  M,  Here  we  had  expected  to  find  water,  but  the  ravine  was 
entirely  dry,  and  the  grass  bordering  it  was  brown  and  dead. 
An  elevated  butte  of  red  sandstone  towered  upwards  on  ovir 
right,  like  the  dome  of  some  Cyclopean  cathedral.  On  our  left 
was  a  high  but  more  sloping  mountain ;  and  in  front,  the  steep 
and  apparently  impassable  crest  of  the  Sierra. 

After  a  fruitless  search  for  water  at  the  bottom  of  the  gorge, 
among  tlie  rocks  and  crevices  of  the  ravine,  I  accidentally  dis- 
covered, near  the  top  of  the  mountain  on  oiu*  left,  a  few  strag- 
gling and  stunted  cedars,  and  immediately  beneath  them  a  small 
patch  of  green  shrubs,  which  I  conjectured  were  willows,  a 
most  welcome  indication  of  water,  after  a  ride  of  eleven  hours 
without  rest  or  refreshment  of  any  kind.  Dismounting  from 
my  mule,  and  accompanied  by  McClary,  I  ascended  the  moun- 
tain as  far  up  as  the  little  green  oasis,  in  the  centre  of  which, 
much  to  our  joy,  we  found  a  small  spiing.     No  water  flowed 


EXTENT  OF  SAIT  PLAIN.  187 

Irom  its  basin,  although  the  ground  immediately  aroiind  waa 
damp,  and  the  grass  green  and  luxuriant.  Our  party  was  soon 
apprized  of  the  discovery,  and  following  us  up  the  mountain, 
we  made  our  camp  near  the  spring,  which  the  mules  soon  com- 
pletely exhausted  of  its  scant  supply  of  water,  without  obtaining 
sufficient  to  quench  their  thirst. 

Ascending  to  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  just  as  the  sun 
was  setting,  I  had  a  more  extended  view  of  the  great  Salt  Plain 
than  at  any  time  previously.  Far  to  the  southeast,  apparently 
from  one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  a  solitary 
mountain  of  immense  height  rises  from  the  white  surface  of  the 
desert,  and  lifts  its  hoary  summit  so  as  almost  to  pierce  the  blue 
ceiling  of  the  skies,  reflecting  back  from  its  frozen  pinnacle,  and 
making  frigid  to  the  eye  the  warm  and  mellow  rays  of  the  eve- 
ning sun.  No  words  can  describe  the  awfulness  and  grandeur 
of  this  sublime  desolation.  The  only  living  object  I  saw  to-day, 
and  the  only  sign  of  animal  existence  separate  from  our  party, 
was  a  small  lizard. 

About  three  o'clock,  p.  m.,  while  we  were  on  the  march,  a 
violent  storm  of  wind,  with  some  rain,  raged  in  the  valley  to 
the  south  of  us,  raising  a  dense  cloud  of  dust,  which  swept  fu- 
riously up  the  eastern  side  of  the  valley  in  drifting  masses  that 
woidd  have  suffocated  us,  had  we  been  travelling  within  its 
range.  Fortunately,  we  were  beyond  the  more  disagreeable 
effects  of  the  storm,  although  where  we  were  the  wind  blew  so 
violently  as  almost  to  dismount  us  from  our  horses. 

We  grazed  our  mules  on  the  diy  grass  along  the  ravine  below 
us,  imtil  nine  o'clock,  when  they  were  brought  up  and  picketed 
around  the  camp,  as  usual.  The  basin  of  the  spring  was  'en- 
larged so  as  to  hold  water  enough,  when  filled,  to  satisfy  the 
wants  of  our  mules  in  the  morning.  These  matters  all  being 
attended  to,  we  bivouacked  on  the  side  of  the  mountain.  Dis- 
tance 30  miles. 

August  6. — The  knowledge  that  our  mules  had  fared  badly, 
and  were  in  a  position,  on  the  steep  side  of  the  mountain,  where 
they  could  neither  obtain  good  rest  nor  food,  kept  me  more 
*rakeful  than  Tisual.    The  heaviest  calamity  that  could  befall  us. 


188  MOONLIGHT  AND  SUNRISE. 

at  this  time,  would  be  the  loss,  by  exhaustion  or  otherwise,  of 
our  animals.  Our  condition  in  such  an  event  would  be  deplora- 
,ble.  I  rose  at  two  o'clock,  and  having  first  filled  all  our  buckets 
and  vessels  with  water  from  the  spiing,  let  the  mules  loose  to 
satisfy  their  thirst.  One  of  them  I  found  tangled  in  its  rope, 
thrown  down,  and  strangled  nearly  to  suffocation. 

The  night  was  perfectly  serene.  Not  a  cloud,  or  the  slightest 
film  of  vapor,  appeared  on  the  face  of  the  deep  blue  canopy  of 
the  heavens.  The  moon  and  the  countless  starry  host  of  the 
firmament  exhibited  their  lustrous  splendor  in  a  perfection  of 
brilliancy  unknown  to  the  night-watchers  in  the  humid  regions 
of  the  Atlantic ;  illuminating  the  numberless  moimtain  peaks 
rising,  one  behind  the  other,  to  the  east,  and  the  illimitable  des- 
ert of  salt  that  spread  its  wintry  drapery  before  me,  far  beyond 
the  reach  of  the  vision,  uke  the  vast  winding- sheet  of  a  dead 
world  !  The  night  was  cold,  and  kindling  a  fire  of  the  small, 
dead  willows  aromad  the  spring,  I  watched  until  the  rich,  red 
hues  of  the  morning  displayed  themselves  above  the  eastern 
horizon,  tinguig  slightly  at  first,  and  then  deepening  in  color, 
the  plain  of  salt,  until  it  appeared  like  a  measureless  ocean  of 
vermilion,  with  here  and  there  a  dark  speck,  the  shadow  of 
some  solitary  huttes,  representing  islands,  rising  from  its  glowing 
bosom.  The  sublime  splendors  of  these  scenes  cannot  be  con- 
veyed to  the  reader  by  language. 

As  soon  as  it  was  light,  I  saddled  my  mule,  and  ascended  to 
the  crest  of  the  ridge  to  observe  the  features  of  the  country, 
and  determine  our  route  for  the  day.  I  returned  just  as  our 
morning  meal  was  pi-epared,  and  at  seven  o'clock  we  were  all  in 
pur  saddles  and  on  the  march.  We  passed  around  the  side  of 
the  mountain  on  which  we  had  encamped,  and  rose  gradually  to 
the  summit  of  the  range.  Here  we  were  delayed  for  some 
time  in  finding  a  way  to  descend.  There  are  several  gorges 
or  ravines  leading  down,  but  they  appeared  to  be  choked  up 
with  rocks  and  brush  so  as  to  render  them  nearly  impassable. 

In  searching  to  find  a  passage  presenting  the  fewest  difficol- 
ties,  I  discovered,  at  the  entrance  of  one  of  these  gorges,  a  re- 
mark/ible  picketing  or  fence,  constructed  of  the  dwarf  cedars  of 


DESERT  VALLEY OASIS.  189 

che  mountain,  interlocked  and  bound  together  in  some  places 
by  willow  withes.  It  was  about  half  a  mile  in  length,  extend- 
ing along  the  ridge,  and  I  supposed  it  at  the  time  to  have  been 
constructed  for  defensive  purposes,  by  some  of  the  Indian  tribes 
of  this  region,  acjainst  the  invasion  of  their  enemies.  At  the 
foot  of  the  mountain  there  was  another  picketing  of  much 
greater  extent,  being  some  four  or  five  miles  in  length,  made  of 
the  wild  sage ;  and  I  have  since  learned  from  trappers  that 
these  are  erected  by  the  Indians  for  the  purpose  of  intercepting 
the  hares,  and  other  small  game  of  these  regions,  and  assisting 
in  their  capture. 

We  descended  the  mountain  through  a  very  narrow  gorge, 
the  rocky  walls  of  which,  in  many  places,  are  perpendicular, 
leaving  us  barely  room  to  pass.  Emerging  from  this  winding 
but  not  difficult  passage,  (compared  with  our  former  experi- 

Pence,)  another  spacious  and  level  valley  or  plain  spread  itself 
before  us.  The  breadth  of  this  valley  is  about  twenty  miles, 
and  its  length,  judging  from  the  apparent  distance  of  the 
mountains  which  exhibit  their  summits  at  either  end,  is  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles.  The  plain  appears  to  be  an  almost 
perfect  level,  and  is  walled  in  by  ranges  of  mountains  on  both 
sides,  rimning  nearly  north  and  south.  Wild  sage,  grease- wood, 
and  a  few  shrubs  of  a  smaller  size,  for  the  most  part  leafless, 
and  apparently  dead  or  dpng,  are  the  only  vegetation  of  this 
valley.  The  earth  is  composed  of  the  same  white  and  light 
composition,  heretofore  described  as  resembling  ashes,  imbedded 
in  and  mixed  with  which  is  a  scorious  gravel.  In  some  places 
it  is  so  soft  that  the  feet  of  our  animals  sink  several  inches ;  in 
others  it  is  baked,  and  presents  a  smooth  and  sometimes  a  pol- 
ished surface,  so  hard  that  the  hoofs  of  our  mules  leave  but  a 
faint  impression  upon  it.  The  snowy  whiteness  of  the  ground, 
reflecting  back  the  bright  and  almost  scorching  rays  of  the 
sun,  is  extremely  painful  to  the  eyes,  producing  in  some  in- 
stances temporary  blindness. 

About  two  o'clock,  p.  m.,  after  travelling  three-fourths  the 
distance  across  the  valley,  we  struck  an  oasis  of  about  fifty  acres 
of  green  grass,  reeds,  and  other  herbage,  surroimding  a  number 


190  DIFFICULTY. 

of  springs,  some  of  cool  fresh  water,  others  of  warm  sulphur 
water.  These  waters  rise  here,  and  immediately  sink  in  the 
sands.  Oiu-  information  at  Fort  Bridger  led  us  to  expect  a 
spring  and  grass  at  this  point,  and  in  order  to  make  sure  of  it, 
we  extended  the  flanks  of  our  small  party  some  three  or  four 
miles  from  the  right  to  the  left.  The  grass  immediately  around 
the  springs,  although  not  of  the  best  quality,  is  very  luxuriant, 
and  on  the  whole,  it  being  a  favorable  place  for  grazing  our 
mules, — no  apprehensions  being  entertained  of  their  straying,  or 
of  Indian  depredations, — we  determined  to  encamp  for  the  day, 

In  the  com'se  of  our  march  to-day,  we  saw  three  hares,  and 
near  the  spring.  Miller  saw  an  antelope.  McClary  and  Brookey 
each  killed  a  duck  in  one  of  the  basins  of  the  spring  soon  after 
our  arrival,  and  later  in  the  afternoon  Brown  killed  a  hawk. 
The  signs  of  animals  around  the  springs  are  numerous,  and  the 
wolves  were  howling  near  our  camp  until  a  late  hour  of  the 
night.     Distance  18  miles. 

August  7. — A  disagreeable  altercation  took  place  between  two 
members  of  our  party  about  a  very  trivial  matter  in  dispute, 
but  threatening  fatal  consequences.  Under  the  excitement  of 
angry  emotions,  rifles  were  levelled  and  the  click  of  the  locks, 
preparatory  to  discharging  the  death-dealing  contents  of  the 
barrels,  was  heard.  I  rushed  between  the  parties  and  ordered 
them  to  hold  up  their  pieces,  and  cease  their  causeless  hostility 
towards  each  other.  I  told  them  that  the  life  of  every  indi- 
vidual of  the  paity  was,  under  the  circumstances  in  which  we 
were  placed,  the  property  of  the  whole  party,  and  that  he  who 
raised  a  gun  to  take  away  a  life,  was,  perhaps  inconsideratel}', 
worse  than  a  common  enemy  or  a  traitor  to  all  of  us,  and  must 
be  so  considered  in  all  future  controversies  of  this  nature,  and 
be  denied  all  fur,ther  intercourse  with  us.  It  was  truly  a  start- 
ling spectacle,  to  witness  two  men,  in  this  remote  desert,  sur- 
rounded by  innumerable  dangers,  to  guard  against  which  they 
wore  mutually  dependent,  so  excited  by  tlieir  passions  as  to 
Beck  each  other's  destruction.  The  ebullition  of  insane  anger 
was  soon  allayed,  and  we  commenced  our  day's  march  about 
thfi  luaal  hour  of  the  moi  ning. 


WELLS  OP  THE  DESERT OASIS.  191 

Our  course  was  due  west,  and  after  travelling  some  four  or 
five  miles,  we  commenced  the  ascent  of  the  range  of  moun- 
tains in  our  front.  We  ascended  and  descended  this  range 
through  winding  canadas  such  as  I  have  previously  described. 
Another  spacious  valley  or  plain  opened  to  our  view  from  the 
western  side  of  this  sierra,  nearly  as  large  in  dimensions  as  that 
which  we  entered  upon  and  partly  crossed  yesterday,  and  vary- 
ing but  httle  from  it  in  its  general  characteristics.  Crossing 
this  valley,  the  sun  pouring  its  scorching  rays  down  upon  us 
with  such  fervor  as  nearly  to  parch  our  bridle  reins  into  a  crisp, 
we  found  on  the  slope  of  the  western  side,  near  the  foot  of  the 
mountain,  another  small  oasis,  of  an  acre  or  two  of  green  vege- 
tation, near  the  centre  of  which  were  one  or  two  small  springs 
or  wells  of  cool  fresh  water.  The  waters  of  these  springs  rise 
to  the  surface  and  sink  immediately,  moistening  only  the  small 
patch  of  fertile  ground  which  I  have  described. 

Refreshing  ourselves  and  our  animals  with  the  most  grateful 
beverage  of  this  fountain  of  the  desert,  we  pursued  our  weari- 
some journey  over  the  next  sierra,  through  a  narrow  gap,  which 
brought  us  into  another  broad  valley  of  an  oval  shape,  walled 
in  on  all  sides,  apparently,  by  an  elliptical  circle  of  elevated 
mountains.  The  hue  of  the  wild  sage  and  grease- wood  of  this 
valley,  is  a  shade  greener  than  in  the  other  valleys  we  have 
crossed  since  we  entered  the  Desert  Basin.  The  composition  of 
the  earth  is  nearly  the  same.  A  fine  white  sand,  impalpable 
almost  as  ashes,  mingled  with  which  is  a  scorious  gravel,  in 
some  places  soft  and  yielding  to  the  hoofs  of  our  mules,  in 
others  baked  and  compact  almost  to  the  hardness  of  brick,  are 
the  leading  characteristics  of  the  soil,  if  soil  it  can  be  called. 

Fifteen  miles  brought  us  to  the  slope  of  the  mountain  on  the 
western  side  of  this  valley,  where  we  found  a  bold  spring  gush- 
ing forth  a  volume  of  water  sufficient  to  turn  the  most  power- 
ful mill-wheel,  but  Uke  all  the  other  springs  of  this  desert  which 
we  have  seen,  after  running  a  short  distance,  the  water  sinks 
and  disappears  in  the  thirsting  sands.  Around  this  spring  there 
are  a  few  small  willows  and  a  luxuriant  growth  of  grass,  with 
some  handsome  yellow  flowers.     Here  we  encamped  at  six 


192  SCENIC    GRANDEUR. 

o'clock,  after  a  march  of  eleven  hours,  without  rest  to  ourselves 
or  our  animals,  which  begin  to  manifest  much  fatigue  and  ex- 
haustion. 

The  signs  of  game  around  our  encampment  are  numerous, 
but  nothing  in  the  shape  of  bird  or  beast  shows  itself.  In  the 
course  of  our  day's  journey  we  started  three  hares,  which  are 
all  of  animal  life  that  has  been  seen. 

Nothing  can  exceed  the  grandeur  and  sublimity  of  these 
magnificent  valleys,  walled  in  by  the  tall  and  spiral  mountains, 
when  lighted  as  they  now  are,  by  the  brilliant  and  powerful  rays 
of  the  moon,  and  the  sparkling  radiance  of  the  starry  host,  sus- 
pended as  it  were,  like  chandeliers  from  the  deep,  soft,  blue  can- 
opy of  the  heavens.  Their  desolation  is  mellowed,  and  there  is 
a  purity,  a  holiness  about  them,  which  leads  the  imagination  to 
picture  them  as  vast  saloons  of  nature,  fashioned  by  the  hand 
of  the  Almighty  for  the  residence  of  uncontaminating  and  un- 
sinful  essences,  and  not  for  the  doomed  children  of  passion, 
want,  sorrow,  and  care !  Should  the  economy  of  Providence, 
in  the  course  of  centuries,  fertilize  and  adapt  them  to  the  resi- 
dence of  man,  the  fabled  glories  of  Elysium  would  scarcely  ex- 
ceed their  attractions.     Distance  35  miles. 

August  8. — The  morning  was  clear  and  cool.  A  slight  dew 
was  perceptible  on  the  grass  and  on  our  blankets.  Our  course 
to-day  was  nearly  the  same  as  yesterday.  We  passed  over  the 
range  of  mountains  under  which  we  had  encamped,  by  ascend- 
ing one  of  its  most  elevated  peaks.  When  we  reached  the 
summit  of  this  peak,  after  repeatedly  stopping  on  the  side  of 
the  mountain  to  breathe  our  mules,  they  seemed  nearly  ex- 
hausted and  scarcely^  able  to  proceed  on  the  journey.  Tlie 
descent  on  the  western  side  was  so  steep  and  difficult,  that  our 
animals  and  ourselves  (dismounted  of  course)  slid  or  jumped 
down  rather  than  walked.  At  the  foot,  we  entered  a  small 
valley,  with  compnrativoly  strong  signs  of  fertility.  A  faint 
stream  of  water  runs  through  it,  from  north  to  south,  the 
margin  of  which  is  fringed  with  green  grass  ;  and  a  few  stunted 
•otton-wood  trees  and  other  shrubbery  relieve  the  everlasting 
moQOtODy  of  sage.     The  sight  of  these  trees  and  of  a  sti«am  oi 


Mary's  river  valley.  193 

running  fresh  water,  was  more  agreeable  to  us  than  can  be 
conceived  by  those  who  have  never  been  deprived  of  such 
scenic  objects. 

Crossing  this  stream  and  the  bottom  opposite,  we  passed 
through  a  low  gap  of  a  range  of  hills,  on  the  western  side  of 
which  we  struck  another  small  stream  of  water,  which  flows 
through  a  fertile,  grassy  valley,  in  a  northwestern  course. 
After  descending  this  valley  some  five  or  six  mUes,  the  stream 
canons  between  high  and  precipitous  hills,  along  the  sides  and 
over  the  tops  of  which  we  were  compelled  to  select  om*  way  to 
the  best  advantage,  imtil  we  emei'ged  into  the  spacious  valley 
of  Mary's  river,  the  sight  of  which  gladdened  om-  eyes  about 
three  o'clock,  p.  m. 

At  this  point  the  valley  is  some  twenty  or  thirty  miles  m 
breadth,  and  the  lines  of  willows  indicating  the  existence  of 
streams  of  running  water  are  so  numerous  and  diverse,  that  we 
found  it  difficult  to  determine  which  was  the  main  river  and  its 
exact  course.  After  wandering  about  for  some  time,  in  com- 
pliance with  the  various  opinions  of  the  party,  I  determined  to 
pursue  a  coiirse  due  west,  until  we  struck  the  river ;  and  at 
s\mset  we  encamped  in  the  valley  of  the  stream  down  which  we 
had  descended,  in  a  bottom  covered  with  most  luxuriant  and 
nutritious  grass.  Our  mides  fared  most  sumptuously  both  for 
food  and  water. 

After  dark,  fires  lighted  by  Indians  were  visible  on  the 
mountains  through  which  we  had  passed,  and  in  several  places 
in  the  valley  a  few  miles  distant.  Our  watch,  with  which  we 
had  dispensed  in  crossing  the  desert,  was  set  to-night,  and  it 
was  fortunate  for  us  that  we  were  thus  cautious,  as  an  attempt 
was  made  by  the  Indians  to  steal  our  mvdes,  which  was  frus- 
trated by  the  man  on  duty  at  the  time. 

The  mountains  on  either  side  of  the  valley  of  Mary's  river, 
at  this  point,  tower  upwards  to  a  great  elevation,  and  are  com- 
posed of  dark  basalt.  I  noticed  near  the  summits  of  some  of 
the  peaks,  small  patches  of  snow.     Distance  23  miles. 

17 


194  Mary's  uivep  indfans 


CHAPTER   XV. 

Mary's  river  Indians — Their  fleetness — Mary's  river — Unexpected  and 
singular  meeting — Applegate's  exploring  party  from  Oregon — Energy 
of  the  emigrant  population  on  the  Pacific — More  Indian  visiters — Large 
herds  of  antelopes — Flora  of  Mary's  river — A  merry  Indian — Indian 
fish-trap — Extensive  boiling  springs — Rain  in  the  desert — Large  body  ol 
Indians — Indian  foot-race  with  our  mules. 

August  9. — We  had  scarcely  commenced  otir  march  when  the 
Indian  signal-fires  were  relighted,  and  we  could  discover  far  up 
and  down  the  valley,  many  columns  of  smoke  ascending  from  the 
most  conspicuous  positions  on  the  sides  of  the  moimtains. 

We  took  a  west  course  down  the  grassy  bottom  of  the  stream 
on  which  we  encamped  last  night,  and  after  travelling  some  four 
or  five  miles,  discovered  at  the  distance  of  about  a  mile,  six 
Indians  running  towards  us  with  an  apparent  speed,  greater 
than  could  be  achieved  by  any  of  the  animals  we  were  riding. 
Notwithstanding  we  proceeded  at  our  usual  gait,  they  soon 
(;ame  up  to  us,  and  holding  out  their  hands  as  we  did  to  them, 
greeted  us  with  much  kindness  and  cordiality.  By  signs,  we 
inquired  of  them  their  tribe,  to  which  they  answered  that  they 
were  Soshonees,  (Snakes.)  All  the  Digger  Indians  of  this 
valley  claim  to  be  Soshonees.  The  bodies  of  two  or  three  of 
them  were  partially  covered  with  the  skins  of  hares  sewn  to- 
gether. The  others  were  entirely  naked.  Their  skins  are  dark 
— nearly  as  dark  as  that  of  the  negro.  The  distinguishing 
features  between  tliese  Indians  and  the  negro,  are  in  the  nose, 
wliich  is  aquiline,  the  long  hair,  and  their  handsome  Arabian- 
Hl)aped  feet.  Their  average  stature  is  about  five  feet  six  or 
seven  inches  is  luiight.  These  Indians,  doubtless,  wore  the  same 
that  disturbed  our  camp  and  attempted  to  steal  our  mules  last 
night. 

One  of  them  had  a  miserable  gun,  and  was  very  deairuu*  «9 


SIN'GI'I.AR     MEETIJNG.  195 

trade  some  roots  prepaied  in  a  curious  manner,  for  powder  and 
balls.  We  declined  all  trades  of  this  nature,  but  upon  his  earn- 
est solicitations  I  presented  him  with  a  few  charges  of  powder 
without  the  balls.  Two  or  three  of  the  others  were  armed 
with  bows  and  well-filled  quivers  of  iron-pointed  arrows.  These 
arrow-points  they  must  have  obtained  at  the  northern  trading- 
posts,  or  they  have  learned  the  ait  of  smelting  from  trappers 
or  emigrants  passing  down  this  valley,  who  have  supplied  them 
with  iron.  Some  of  them  had  small  pouches  or  bags  made  of 
hare-skins,  upon  which  they  seemed  to  set  a  great  value,  and 
wished  to  trade  them  for  blankets  and  other  clothing.  But  our 
estimate  of  their  wares  did  not  equal  their  own  appraisement, 
and  we  could  effect  no  trades.  We  distributed  among  them  a 
few  pieces  of  bread  and  some  fried  bacon,  the  residuum  of  our 
breakfast,  and  bid  them  a  very  courteous  and  affectionate  good- 
morning. 

Continuing  our  course  along  the  fertile  bottom  of  the  moun- 
tain branch,  after  travelling  about  two  miles  farther  we  struck 
and  crossed  Mary's  river,  which  at  this  point,  and  at  this  sea- 
son, is  a  very  small  stream.  The  channel  is  of  considerable 
depth  and  about  thirty  or  forty  feet  in  width,  with  steep,  per- 
pendicular banks.  In  many  places  the  channel  is  nearly  dry  ; 
the  water  having  been  absorbed  by  the  spongy  earth,  stands  in 
stagnant  pools  with  no  flowing  current  to  enlivent  its  sluggish- 
ness and  cool  its  offensive  warmth,  or  to  purge  it  of  the  saline, 
alkaline,  and  sulphurous  substances  with  which  the  contiguous 
soil  is  strongly  impregnated.  Clumps  of  small  willows,  an  inch 
in  diameter,  with  here  and  there  a  few  wild  currant-bushes, 
fringe  the  margin  of  the  river,  and  constitute  the  only  "  timber" 
th^tt  displays  itself  in  this  valley. 

Just  as  I  was  crossing  Mary's  river,  Colonel  Russell  being 
with  me,  considerably  in  advance  of  the  main  body  of  our 
party,  I  saw  at  the  distance  of  about  half  a  mile  a  party  of 
some  ten  or  fifteen  men  mounted  on  horses  and  mules,  march- 
ing towards  the  north.  Spurring  our  animals,  we  rode  with  as 
much  speed  as  we  could  make,  in  a  direction  to  intercept  them. 
They  soon  discovered  va,  and  halted  until  we  approached  them 


1^6  applegate's  exploring  party. 

From  tlieii:  costume  and  color  it  was  impossible,  at  a  distance, 
to  determine  to  which  of  the  classes  of  the  human  race  they 
belonged.  But  their  demeanor  was  entirely  pacific.  Their 
rifles  lay  quietly  on  the  pommels  of  their  saddles,  and  they 
seemed  to  take  advantage  of  the  few  moments  of  stoppag*^  al- 
lowed them  by  our  interruption  of  their  progress,  to  rest  in 
their  saddles  from  the  weariness  of  a  long  journey.  I  felt  quite 
confident  that  they  were  a  party  from  California,  who,  proba- 
bly, had  been  compelled  to  leave  the  country  in  consequence 
of  the  war  between  the  United  States  and  Mexico,  and  were 
returning  to  the  Atlantic  side  of  the  continent,  their  original 
homes. 

We  rode  up  to  them,  when  they  extended  their  hands  and 
saluted  us  like  brothers  who  had  been  long  parted,  and  had 
met  unexpectedly,  and  under  difficult  and  trying  circumstances. 
We  spoke  to  them  in  our  own  language  and  they  answered  us 
in  the  same  dialect,  a  sound  not  disagreeable  to  our  ears.  We 
soon  learned  that  they  were  a  party  of  men  from  the  WUha- 
mette  valley  in  Oregon,  headed  by  the  Messrs.  Applegate,  who 
had  left  their  homes  on  the  10th  of  May,  and  since  that  time 
had  been  engaged  in  exploring  a  new  and  more  feasible  wagon- 
route  to  Oregon,  by  descending  Mary's  river  some  distance 
below  this  point,  and  from  thence  striking  the  head-waters  of 
the  Wilhamette  river.  Having  completed  their  labors,  they 
were  now  on  their  way  to  Fort  Hall  for  the  purpose  of  meeting 
'-he  emigrant  trains  bound  to  Oregon,  and  guiding  them  by-  this 
route  to  their  destination.  Five  members  of  their  party  had 
preceded  them  several  days,  having  been  supplied  with  their 
best  animals,  for  the  purpose  of  reaching  Fort  Hall,  or  meeting 
the  emigrants  this  side  as  soon  as  possible,  and  returning  imme- 
diately with  supplies  for  the  relief  of  the  main  party,  they  being 
nearly  destitute  of  all  provisions,  and  having  been  on  very  short 
allowance  for  several  days.  Such  was  their  condition  in  regard 
to  provisions,  tliat  they  expected  to  be  compelled  to  slaughter 
one  of  their  horses  for  food,  unless  they  met  some  of  the  emi- 
grant trains  within  a  day  or  two.  They  all  manifested  great 
interest  in  the  "Oregon  question/'  and  with  much  (heerfulnesi 


ENTERPRISE    OF    EMIGRANTS  197 

we  gave  them  such  information  in  regard  to  it  as  we  possessed 
before  leaving  our  homes.  They  informed  us  that  there  were 
two  emlcriant  wagons  with  ten  or  twelve  men,  about  four  or  five 
Jays  in  advance  of  us. 

It  would  be  difficult  to  decide  which  of  the  two  parties,  when 
confronted,  presented  the  most  jaded,  ragged,  and  travel-soiled 
aspect,  but  I  think  the  Oregonese  had  a  little  the  advantage  of 
us  in  this  respect.  None  of  us,  within  the  settlements  of  the 
United  States,  would  have  been  recognised  by  our  nearest 
kindred  as  civilized  and  christianized  m^n.  Both  parties  had 
been  in  the  wilderness  nearly  three  months,  the  Oregon  party, 
as  we  learned,  having  started  on  the  tenth  of  May,  and  our 
party  on  the  fifth  of  the  same  month  ;  they  from  the  shores 
of  the  Pacific  travelling  east,  we  from  the  waters  of  the  Mis- 
souri travelling  west.  A  singularity  of  the  incident  was,  that 
after  having  travelled  across  a  desert  by  a  new  route  some  three 
or  four  hundred  miles,  we  should  have  met  them  just  at  the 
moment  when  they  were  passing  the  point  of  our  junction  with 
the  old  trail.  Had  we  been  ten  minutes  later,  we  should  not 
have  seen  them.  We  met  them  with  pleasure,  and  parted  from 
them  with  regret,  to  pursue  our  long  and  toilsome  journey, 
which  seems  to  lengthen  out  as  we  proceed, — our  point  of  des- 
tination, like  the  blue  wall  of  the  arch  of  the  skies,  i'eceding 
from  us  as  we  advance. 

I  could  not,  however,  but  reflect  upon  and  admire  the  public 
spirit  and  enterprise  of  the  small  band  of  men  from  whom  we 
had  just  parted.  Our  government,  doubtless,  has  been  desirous 
of  exploring  and  pomting  out  the  most  favorable  routes  to  the 
Pacific,  and  has  appropriated  large  sums  of  money  for  this  pur- 
pose. But  wliatever  has  been  accomplished  in  the  way  of  explo- 
rations, which  is  of  much  practical  utility,  has  resulted  from  the 
indomitable  energy,  the  bold  daring,  and  the  imconquerable  en- 
terprise, in  opposition  to  every  discouragement,  privation,  and 
danger,  of  our  hardy  frontier  men  and  pioneers,  unaided  directly 
or  remotely  by  the  patronage  or  even  the  approving  smiles  and 
commendations  of  the  government.  To  them  we  are  indebted 
for  the  originally  discovered  wagon-route  to  Oregon  and  Cali 
11* 


198  MORE  DIGGER  INDIANS 

forma,  and  to  them  we  are  indebted  for  all  the  valuable  improve- 
ments and  cut-offs  on  this  route.  To  them  we  are  indebted  for 
a  good,  well-beaten,  and  plain  trail  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  on  the 
shores  of  which,  in  the  face  of  almost  insvirmountable  difficulties, 
unsupported,  they  have  founded  an  emphe.  Let  us  honor  those 
to  whom  honor  is  due. 

Proceeding  down  the  river  about  two  miles,  we  encamped  at 
eleven  o'clock  for  the  day,  in  a  handsome  bottom  of  green  nu- 
tritious grass,  which  the  mules  cropped  with  an  apparent  high 
relish.  The  varieties  of  gi-asses  which  I  have  seen  since  we 
entered  this  valley  are  nimierous,  and  although  they  are  not  as 
fine  and  tender  as  the  grasses  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  they  are 
all  heavily  seeded  and  must  be  highly  sustaining. 

Jacob  and  Miller,  unknown  to  me,  when  we  left  our  encamp- 
ment this  morning,  retm-ned  back  upon  our  trail  to  search  for 
a  pocket-compass  and  some  other  small  articles  which  Jacob 
accidentally  dropped  on  the  march  yesterday,  and  they  had  not 
come  up  with  us  when  we  encamped. 

Five  more  naked  Indians,  with  which  the  valley  and  the 
canadas  of  the  mountains  seem  to  teem,  judging  from  the  nu- 
merous trails,  footprints,  and  signal-fires,  came  into  our  camp 
immediately  after  we  halted.  They  brought  with  them  a  small 
quantity  of  dried  meat  and  roots,  with  which  they  professed  a 
desire  to  make  ti'ades  with  us.  The  meat  I  judged  was  that 
of  the  ground-hog.  It  did  not  present  a  very  inviting  or  pro- 
vocative aspect  to  the  palate.  The  roots,  if  roots  they  were, 
were  still  more  repulsive,  but  the  Indians  seemed  to  set  an 
extraordinary  value  both  upon  the  meat  and  the  roots.  We 
could  effect  no  trades  with  them,  their  demands  being  quite  too 
exorbitant.  The  truth,  without  doubt  was,  that  they  came  into 
our  cam])  for  the  purpose  of  discovering  what  chance  there 
might  be  for  'theft  and  plunder. '  I  requested  such  of  our  party 
as  were  present,  (only  four  in  number,)  to  display  as  much  as 
possible  their  guns,  pistols,  and  knives,  in  order  to  give  them  to 
midt'istand  the  consequences  of  any  attempt  at  thieving  or 
depredation.  1  set  up  a  small  mark  and  shot  my  pistols  sev- 
eral times  into  the  centre  of  it,  which  seemed  to  strike  them 


TROUBLESOME  VISITERS.  19S 

with  much  astonishment.  At  each  report  of  tht  pistol,  and  the 
sphntering  of  the  small  willow  stick  shot  at,  glances  of  surprise 
passed  from  one  to  another.  They  soon  took  their  iea\  e,  much 
to  my  gratification.  Nothing  can  be  more  troublesome  than 
Indians  about  the  camp.  They  compel  us  to  keep  a  \igilant 
and  constfint  watch  upon  every  article  we  possess,  to  prevent 
and  detect  their  thievish  propensities.  We  gave  each  of  them 
a  small  piece  of  bread  when  they  were  lea\ing.  Buchan- 
an and  Brown  killed  an  antelope  soon  after  we  encamped,  on 
..he  opposite  side  of  the  river.  It  was  one  of  a  drove'iof  about 
twenty,  which  they  succeeded  in  approaching  behind  a  clump 
of  willows.  It  was  brought  to  camp  and  cooked  for  dinner, 
and  enjoyed  with  a  gusto  unkno^vn  to  the  epicure  whose  delica- 
cies are  prepared  in  the  kitchens  of  ci\'ilization. 

I  began  to  feel  considerable  uneasiness  respecting  the  non- 
appearance of  Jacob  and  Miller,  and  was  preparing  to  re- 
*yum  back  upon  the  trail  to  ascertain  what  delayed  them, 
when  about  two  o'clock,  much  to  my  relief,  they  appeared  in 
sight,  coming  down  the  valley.  They  had  mistaken  the  Oregon 
party  which  we  met  in  the  morning  for  us,  and  had  travelled 
on  after  them,  coming  up  to  them  when  they  halted  at  noon. 

I  noticed,  during  the  day,  several  grouse  or  sage-hens,  as 
they  are  commonly  called,  sand-hill  cranes,  and  many  other 
fimall  birds,  flying  near  the  banks  of  the  river.  The  day  has 
been  one  of  intense  and  scorching  heat,  mitigated  occasionally 
by  a  few  hght  clouds,  shading  us  momentarily  from  the  almost 
blistering  rays  of  the  sim.     Distance  10  miles. 

August  10. — A  cloudy  morning  with  a  pleasant  temperature, 
A  sprinkle  of  rain  fell  in  the  course  of  the  night,  which  dampened 
the  grass  and  moistened  our  blankets.  Some  Indians  were  seen 
.ui'king  in  the  willows  near  our  camp  about  midnight ;  but  dis- 
covering our  watch,  they  made  no  further  attempt  to  steal  our 
animals.  Our  camp,  aroimd  which  the  mules  are  picketed,  is 
more  than  arrow-shot  from  the  willows  ;  and  these  Indians  will 
not  make  any  hostile  demonstrations  unless  they  are  sheltered 
by  ravines  or  bushes. 

Having  reached  the  wagon-trail  to  California,  althongli  ia 


200  THREATENED  CONFLAGRATION. 

many  places  it  is  blind  and  overgrown,  yet  we  shall  have  less 
difficidty  in  searching  out  our  road,  and  less  anxiety  respecting 
our  course.  The  course  of  the  river  at  this  point  is  nearly  south- 
west, and  the  trail  runs  through  the  bottom,  occasionally  cross- 
ing the  low  sand-hills,  to  cut  off  the  bends  and  avoid  the  canons. 
We  passed  around  a  canon  early  tliis  morning.  The  road  being 
smooth,  and  generally  hard  and  level,  our  mules  travel  off  at  a 
brisk  trot,  with  comparative  ease. 

During  the  day's  march  we  have  seen  not  less  than  three  or 
four  himdred  antelopes,  with  which  the  valley  seems  to  teem. 
Ihey  are  exceedingly  timid  and  wild,  discovering  us  usually  by 
the  scent,  at  the  distance  of  a  mile,  and  running  almost  with 
the  fleetness  of  the  wind  into  the  hills  and  mountains. 

The  lupin  is  the  only  flower  I  have  seen  to-day.  A  coarse, 
hea\'ily-seeded  grass  has  been  the  prevaihng  vegetation  of  the 
river  bottom.  Benches  of  low  hills,  covered  with  sage  and 
grease-wood,  slope  down  to  the  fertile  land,  beyond  which  high 
mountains  raise  their  rocky,  totally  barren,  and  inaccessible  peaks. 
The  river  is  now  more  a  succession  or  chain  of  stagnant  pools 
than  a  stream  of  running  Mater,  and  its  banks  are  skirted,  as 
heretofore,  with  small  willows  and  wil'd  currant-bushes.  The 
soil  of  the  bottom  is  highly  fertile,  wherever  it  is  moistened  by 
the  waters  of  the  river. 

We  encamped  at  three  o'clock,  p.  m.,  as  near  the  margin  of 
the  stream  as  safety  would  permit.  The  Avind  blew  a  gale  from 
the  south  for  two  hours  this  afternoon  ;  and  some  sparks  of  fire 
catcliing  in  the  dead  grass  around  our  camp,  so  rapid  was  the 
conflagration  that  we  had  great  difficulty  in  saving  our  baggage 
from  destruction.  A  panther  approached  within  three  himdred 
yards  of  our  camp  about  sunset.  We  discharged  a  rifle  at  him, 
but  he  escajjcd.  The  heat  of  the  afternoon  has  been  intense. 
Distance  .30  miles. 

August  11. — At  eight  o'clock  we  resumed  our  march  down 
the  river,  which,  at  the  distance  of  ten  miles  from  our  last  en- 
campment, caJlons  between  ranges  of  elevated  mountains,  com- 
posed of  rugged,  precipitous  rocks,  at  the  bottom  of  which  is  a 
course  debris  of  sharp  broken  flint  and  sandstone.     The  traO 


oood-natured  digger.  201 

here  runs  immediately  upon  the  banks  of  the  nver,  and  crosses 
it  in  the  course  of  five  or  six  miles,  as  many  times,  in  order  to 
take  advantage  of  the  narrow  bottoms  made  by  the  abrupt 
and  worm-like  wndings  of  the  stream.  The  small  bottoms 
are  highly  fertile,  and  are  covered  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of 
grass  and  flowers.  Among  the  flowers  which  ornamented  these 
little  parterres,  I  noticed  the  lupin,  the  sunflower,  a  small 
trumpet-shaped  flower,  the  corol  of  which  is  blue  and  scarlet, 
a  )-are  combination  of  colors,  and  a  flower  with  a  flaming,  torch- 
like development  of  brilliant  scarlet. 

Emerging  from  this  canon  we  passed  over  another  wide  and 
fertile  bottom,  at  the  lower  end  of  which  a  naked  Indian,  more 
bold  than  his  hidden  associates,  made  his  appearance  from  the 
willows  at  some  distance,  and  ran  towards  us  with  great  speed. 
Approaching  us,  he  extended  his  arm  ;  and  when  he  came  up, 
shook  all  of  us  by  the  hand  with  great  cordiality.  A  grm,  illus- 
trative of  a  feeling  of  much  delight,  distorted  his  swarthy 
countenance,  over  which,  and  down  his  neck,  the  long,  coarse, 
coal-black,  and  matted  hair  fell  in  neglected  rankness  and  pro- 
fusion. His  delight  at  seeing  and  saluting  us,  was  apparently 
so  overwhelming,  that  he  could  not  restrain  his  emotions,  but 
laughed  outright,  (an  imusual  phenomenon  in  an  Indian,)  and 
shouted  a  gleeful  shout. 

We  did  not  suspend  our  march  on  his  account,  but  he  trotted 
along  by  my  side  for  a  mile  or  more,  his  garrulous  tongue  roll- 
ing out  with  an  oily  fluency  an  eloquence  quite  as  incomprehen- 
sible as  that  of  many  a  member  of  congress.  Three  more  of 
his  brethren  made  their  appearance  from  the  distant  wUlows, 
when  our  good-natured  and  nearly  overjoyed  friend  left  us  and 
joined  them.  We  gave  him,  as  usual,  a  small  piece  of  bread, 
which  has  become  a  scarce  commodity  with  us. 

The  trail  at  this  point,  to  avoid  a  canon,  leaves  the  river, 
turning  abruptly  from  it  to  the  right,  and  ascending  over  low 
gravelly  hills,  with  the  usual  growth  in  such  places,  of  wild  sage, 
until  it  gradually  mounts  an  elevated  ridge,  about  a  mile  down 
the  western  slope  of  which  we  found  a  small  spring  of  cold, 
piire  water.     There  being  a  stiflSciency  of  grass  around  this 


202  NUMBERS  OF  INDIANS. 

spring  for  our  mules,  we  determined  to  encamp  for  tLe  day,  tnd 
enjoy  the  luxury  of  good  water.  A  large  number  of  antelopes, 
as  usual,  were  in  sight  of  us  to-day,  and  I  saw  several  wild 
geese  and  sage-hens,  but  we  have  killed  nothing.  Distance 
32  miles. 

August  12. — Morning  clear  and  cool,  with  a  light  breeze 
from  the  west.  Continuing  down  the  narrow  valley  or  gorge, 
and  passing  within  a  mile  or  two  of  our  camp  several  springs 
of  cold,  fresh  water,  we  again,  after  travelling  some  eight  or 
nine  miles,  came  in  sight  of  the  river,  winding  through  a  spa- 
cious valley  which  stretches  far  to  the  south,  with  a  range  of 
high  moimtains  bounding  it  on  the  west.  The  river  here  makes 
a  long  bend,  turning  to  the  north,  in  which  course  it  runs  about 
fifteen  miles.  We  left  this  valley  through  a  narrow  gap,  through 
which  the  river  fqrces  its  way ;  and  about  one  o'clock,  p.  m., 
turning  the  point  of  the  mountain,  we  entered  another  large  and 
level  valley,  which  stretches  to  the  north  as  far  as  the  vision  can 
penetrate  through  the  smoky  vapor.  We  travelled  down  this 
valley,  in  a  southwest  coui'se,  about  ten  miles,  when  we  en- 
camped for  the  day,  at  three  o'clock. 

There  has  been  little  or  no  variation  in  the  general  character- 
istics of  the  countiy  and  its  productions.  Sage,  grease-wood, 
etc.,  cover  the  low  hUls  and  benches  of  the  mountains,  and 
grass  and  willows  the  margin  of  the  river.  The  soil  is  extremely 
light  and  porous,  resembling  ashes ;  and  whenever  it  is  disturbed 
by  the  feet  of  our  mules,  we  are  enveloped  in  clouds  of  dust. 
Our  hair  and  beards  look  white  a  nd  frosty,  and  our  complexions 
are  as  cadaverous  as  so  many  corpses,  untU  we  perform  our 
'"vening  ablutions. 

I  saw  to-day,  while  on  our  march,  several  Indians  standing 
on  -i  bluff  at  no  great  distance  from  the  trail,  but  they  did 
not  venture  to  approach  us.  Near  our  encampment  is  the  mis- 
erable dwelling  of  a  Digger,  but  deserted.  We  discovered,  on 
the  bank  of  the  river,  a  fish-trap,  ingeniously  constructed  of 
willows  interwoven.  It  was  about  ten  or  twelve  feet  in  length, 
and  shaped  like  the  cornucopia.  Multitudes  of  wolves  serenade 
US  every  night  with  their  harsh  and  discordant  bowlings,     Th* 


SCORCHING  WINDS  OF  THE  DESERT.        203 

day  has  been  excessively  hot,  and  the  sky  is  of  the  color  of 
copper,  from  the  effects  of  the  dense  smoke  with  which  the 
atmosphere  of  the  valley  is  filled.     Distance  30  miles. 

August  13. — About  nine  o'clock,  a.  m.,  the  temperature  be- 
came intensely  hot,  the  wind  changing  to  the  south,  and  blowing 
a  breeze  that  was  almost  scorching.  Nothing  can  be  more  op- 
pressive than  the  currents  of  hot  winds  from  the  desert,  whose 
fire-like  fervency,  sustained  by  the  almost  scorching  rays  of  the 
sun,  is  sometimes  nearly  suffocating. 

We  travelled  down  the  margin  of  the  river  about  twelve 
miles,  when  we  left  the  wagon-trail,  turning  to  the  right  over 
some  low  hills,  from  which  we  descended  into  a  wide  valley, 
through  which  the  river  winds  its  serpentine  channe.  in  a 
northwest  direction.  Laying  our  course  across  this  valley,  after 
travelling  about  ten  miles  we  again  struck  the  river  and  the 
wagon-trail,  and  continued  our  course  along  the  margin  of  the 
stream  until  we  encamped,  about  two  o'clock. 

The  low  hills  over  which  we  passed  are  covered  with  a  debris 
of  sharp  fragments  of  basalt.  The  dark  sides  of  the  mountains 
beyond  them  indicate  that  they  are  composed  of  the  same  sco- 
rious  substance.  The  general  features  of  the  country  and 
scenery  are  the  same  as  heretofore  described.  Several  miles 
of  our  route,  to-day,  the  ground  was  thickly  incrusted  with  the 
carbonate  of  soda.  A  few  antelopes  were  seen  at  a  distance, 
and  occasionally  a  sage-hen  was  flushed. 

During  the  afternoon  some  heavy,  but  dry-looking  clouds 
obscured  the  sun,  and  I  heard  distant  thunder  in  several  direc  • 
tions,  but  no  rain  fell  to  moisten  the  parched  ground.  The 
smoke  in  the  valley  continues  very  dense,  and  the  coppery  hue 
of  the  heavens  increases — the  atmosphere  feehng  as  it  looks, 
heated  almost  to  blistering.     Distance  30  miles. 

August  14. — The  morning  was  hazy  with  thick,  smoky  vapor. 
About  ten  o'clock  last  night,  a  black  cloud  rose  from  the  south, 
and  continual  and  almost  dazzling  flashes  of  lightning  were 
darting  athwart  its  face  in  all  directions,  illuminating  that  por- 
tion of  the  heavens  with  a  blaze  of  electrical  light.  The  wind 
blew  with  violence,  and  a  few  drops  of  rain  fell,  but  not  enough 


204  BOILING   SPRINGS. 

in  this  arid  region,  where  all  humidity  seeas  almost  instantly  t« 
be  evaporated,  to  leave  a  perceptible  moisture  in  the  morning. 

The  channel  of  the  river  is  very  serpentine,  winding  abruptly 
to  the  right  and  left  through  the  valley,  to  irrigate,  m  obedience 
to  the  economy  of  nature,  and  fertilize  its  ashy  and  spongy  soil. 
Our  general  course  to-day  has  been  nearly  west,  bearing  a  little 
to  the  north  of  west,  crossing  two  extensive  valleys  or  plains, 
and  passing  through  a  narrow  defile  of  the  mountains,  through 
which  the  river  forces  its  way.     The  waters  of  the  river  appeal 
to  be  decreasing,  and  the  channel  occasionally  is  quite  dry,  ex 
posing  in  some  places  a  sandy,  in  others  a  soft,  muddy  bed 
Extensive  portions  of  the  valleys  through  which  we  have  passe( 
have  been  incrusted  with  an  alkaline  efflorescence. 

We  encamped  near  the  bank  of  the  river  at  four  o'clock,  p.  m 
About  two  miles  from  our  camp,  near  the  base  of  the  moun 
tains,  we  discovered  a  cu'cle  of  dark  green  herbage.  A  phe- 
nomenon so  unusual  in  such  a  position,  excited  my  curiosity, 
and  notwithstanding  my  fatigue,  I  determined  to  visit  the  spot, 
and  ascertain  its  cause.  Accompanied  by  Jacob  and  Nuttall,  I 
walked  to  the  place,  and  discovered  that  what  produced  the 
remarkable  verdure  was  the  water  flowing  from  a  number  of 
boiling  springs,  which,  cooling  as  it  flowed  down  the  slope  of 
the  valley,  irrigated  and  fertilized  the  earth,  producing  luxuriant 
grass  in  the  small  circle  dampened  by  it,  before  sinking  and  dis- 
appearing in  the  sands.  There  are  some  ten  or  twelve  of  these 
springs,  the  basins  of  the  largest  of  which  are  ten  feet  in  diam- 
eter. The  temperature  of  the  water  is  boiling  heat.  To  test  it 
by  the  best  method  within  our  power,  (our  thermometer  having 
been  broken,)  we  procured  from  camp  a  small  piece  of  bacon, 
which,  being  placed  on  the  end  of  a  stick  and  thrust  into  the 
boiling  basin,  was  well  cooked  in  fifteen  minutes.  The  water  is 
.slightly  impregnated  with  salt  and  sulphur.  Immediately 
around  these  basins,  the  ground  is  whitened  with  a  crust  of  the 
carbonate  of  soda,  beneath  which  is  a  stratu^a  or  shell  of  red- 
dish rock,  which  appears  to  have  been  formed  by  a  dcposite 
from  the  springs. 

Our  observations  and  experiments  detained  us  until   it  was 


LAROB  BODY  OF  INDIANS.  205 

qtiite  dark,  and  we  had  great  difficulty,  the  fires  bem^  txdn- 
guished,  in  findmg  the  camp.     Distance  36  miles. 

August  15. — A  drizzling  rain  commenced  falling  this  morn- 
ing, about  one  o'clock,  which  did  not  cease  until  eight  o'clock. 
Our  blankets  and  skins  were  pretty  thoroughly  drenched  with 
water ;  but  the  clouds  clearing  away,  and  the  sun  shining  out 
before  nine  o'clock,  such  is  the  rapidity  of  evaporation  here,  that 
fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  sufficed  to  dry  our  baggage  and  the 
ground.  Judging  from  appearances,  no  rains  sufficient  to  pene- 
trate the  earth  to  any  extent,  have  fallen  in  the  valley  since  the 
wagons  passed  along  last  year.  In  those  places  over  which  the  trail 
passes,  where  there  is  no  vegetation  except  the  sage,  the  marks 
of  the  wagon-tires,  and  the  footprints  of  the  oxen  and  horses, 
are  quite  distinct,  and  do  not  appear  to  have  been  made  more 
than  a  month.  The  grass,  except  immediately  on  the  margin 
of  the  river,  is  perfectly  dry,  and  crumbles  to  powder  under  our 
feet. 

Our  course  this  morning  run  in  a  direction  north  of  west  for 
ten  miles,  when  we  t\irned  the  point  of  a  range  of  moimtains  on 
our  left,  and  the  trail  takes  nearly  a  southwest  course ;  some- 
times through  the  bottom,  near  the  banks  of  the  river,  at  others 
over  the  elevated,  barren  portions  of  the  valley,  and  through 
the  wild  sage. 

About  twelve  o'clock,  I  saw  on  a  bluff  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  river,  across  a  low  bottom  at  the  distance  of  two  miles, 
a  large  body  of  Indians — some  two  or  three  hundred.  Four 
of  them  left  the  main  body,  and  running  across  the  bottom  with 
incredible  celerity,  soon  overtook  us,  notwithstanding  Ave  were 
_  traveling  at  a  brisk  trot.  They  were  naked,  and  armed  with 
bows  and  arrows.  When  they  came  up  to  us,  they  held  out 
their  hands  in  token  of  friendship,  and  falhng  behind,  I  entered 
into  such  a  conversation  with  them  as  ray  knowledge  of  their 
signs  permitted.  All  I  could  learn  was,  that  they  wished  us  to 
make  presents  to  them  of  shirts,  and  something  to  eat.  This 
request,  of  course,  we  could  not  comply  with,  our  stock  of 
clothing  and  provisions  being  too  scant.  Two  of  them  fell 
behind  very  souu;  the  other  two  travelled  along  with  us,  without 

18 


S06  THBIR  DREAD  OF  FIRE-ARMS 

any  apparent  fatigue,  for  four  hours,  at  the  rate  of  five  mllea 
per  hour. 

They  have  a  great  dread  of  a  rifle  when  its  muzzle  is  pointed 
towards  them,  and  were  always  careful  to  keep  out  of  the  range 
of  our  pieces.  About  a  mile  before  we  encamped  for  the  day, 
Buchanan  and  Brown  being  behind,  kUled  a  wolf,  and  a  sand- 
hill crane.  They  were  greatly  astonished  at  the  report  of  the 
rifle,  and  to  them  its  mysterious  and  deadly  effects.  They  looked 
in  wonder,  first  at  the  muzzle  of  the  gun,  and  then  at  the  mor- 
tal wound  made  in  the  wolf,  causing  instant  death.  To  them  it 
was  incomprehensible.  The  wolf  and  the  crane  were  presented 
to  them,  with  which  they  seemed  to  be  delighted,  and  started 
to  retmn  to  their  fellows,  with  as  much  fleetness  as  if  they  had 
not  travelled  a  mile  during  the  day. 

We  encamped  at  half-past  four  o'clock,  descending  a 
steep  bluff"  into  a  small  low  bottom  of  the  river,  where  the 
grass  was  rank  and  green.  Another  cloud  rose  from  the  south- 
west just  before  stmset,  and  it  rained  enough  before  we  retired 
for  the  night,  to  moisten  the  grass  and  the  stirface  of  the  ground. 
The  mountains  bordering  the  valley  of  the  river  have  exhibited 
every  variety  of  rugged  form,  during  the  day's  march.  The 
rock  of  which  they  are  composed  is  volcanic  and  of  a  dark  hue  ; 
they  are  entirely  destitute  of  vegetation,  and  the  scenery,  con- 
sequently, is  most  gloomy  and  repulsive  to  the  eye.  Distance 
30  miles. 


CHAPTER   XVI. 

RofrcKhing  rain — Douse  smoky  vapor — Scarcity  of  provisions — Horses 
giviiijr  out — Disriiiil  joiirnoy — 8oup  of  fresh-wator  sliellfish — Agreeable 
meeting — Ohtain  a  Biippiy  of  provisions — Morry  Digger  Indian  visitres 
An  Indian  coil — Petrifactions — Sinli  of  Mary's  river — Bitter  waters 
— The  desert  between  Mary's  and  Truckee  rivor — Toilsome  marcli— 
Unexpected  refroslnneut — Koniaikablo  boiling  springs. 

AuocBT  IG. — When  I  woke  tliis  moriiinir  it.  was  cloudy,  and 
rain  was  falling  copiously.      Imdhi  a[)pc.arances,  it  had  been  rain- 


■CARCITY    OF    PROVISIONS EXHAUSTED  HORSES.      207 

mg  several  hoiirs,  and  those  of  our  party  who  had  bivouacked 
were  qmte  wet.  Nothing  coidd  be  more  agreeable  to  us  than 
this  rain.  By  it  the  dust  which  in  places  is  almost  suflfocating, 
has  been  laid  for  a  short  distance  at  least,  and  the  sultry  and 
dry  atmosphere  has  been  cooled  and  moistened. 

Our  course  for  the  day  has  generally  been  southwest,  and 
the  trail  which  we  have  followed  has  sometimes  passed  through 
the  grassy  bottoms  next  to  the  river,  and  at  others  over  the 
high  and  barren  slopes  of  the  valley,  with  a  growth  of  leafless 
sage  upon  them. 

We  passed  some  places  where  water  was  standing  in  pools 
.  from  the  effects  of  last  night's  rain,  a  most  unusual,  but  not  un- 
pleasing  sight  in  this  arid  region.  The  atmosphere  is  so  charged 
with  smoke,  upon  which  the  rain  of  last  night  seems  to  have 
produced  no  effect,  that  distant  objects  are  not  discernible. 
The  outlines  of  the  nearest  moimtains,  dimly  seen  through  the 
thick  vapor,  present  the  same  dark,  rugged,  and  barren  aspect 
as  has  heretofore  been  described. 

I  saw  several  Indians  to-day  at  a  distance,  but  they  ran  from 
us  and  concealed  themselves  in  the  willows  bordering  the  river. 
The  water  of  the  river  has  become  strongly  impregnated  with 
alkali,  and  being  exposed  to  the  sun,  when  taken  from  the  pools 
is  nearly  blood  heat.  It  is  not,  however,  more  distasteful  than 
we  expected  to  find  it,  and  bad  as  it  is,  our  excessive  thirst 
renders  it  palatable. 

This  evening  I  made  an  inspection  of  the  provisions  of  my 
mess,  and  found,  owing  to  its  increase  of  numbers  from  unavoid- 
able cii'cumstances  since  we  left  Fort  Laramie,  that  there 
would  be  a  deficiency,  although  we  have  been  on  short  allowance 
for  the  last  ten  days,  restricting  ourselves  to  a  single  small  slice 
of  fried  bacon  and  a  very  diminutive  piece  of  bread,  for  each, 
twice  a  day,  morning  and  evening.  We  estimate  our  journey 
to  the  settlements  of  California  at  fourteen  days  ;  and  our  pro- 
\nsions  will  not  last  us  more  than  five  or  six  days. 

Brown's  and  Brookey's  riding-horses  nearly  gave  out  to-daj. 
This  is  a  very  great  misfortime,  as  we  have  not  a  single  animal 
whose  services  we  can  well  dispense  with.     The  sun  sunk  down 


208  MISERABLE    DAYS    JOURMEY. 

behind  the  mountains  this  evening,  appearing  through  the 
smoke  hke  an  immense  ball  of  fire.     Distance  30  nules. 

August  17. — ^Tm-ning  our  com-se  considerably  to  the  left, 
the  trail  foUowiag  the  winding  and  sluggish  current  of  the 
river,  and  passing  through  a  narrow  gap  of  the  mountains,  we 
entered  upon  an  extensive  and  level  plain,  upon  which  we  saw 
large  numbers  of  antelopes,  frequently  in  droves  of  a  hun- 
dred or  more.  Leaving  this  bottom,  we  again  ascended  upon 
high  ground  composed  of  ashy  earth  mixed  with  sharp  volcanic 
gravel,  with  a  growth  of  sage,  over  which  we  continued  our 
monotonous  march  the  remainder 'of  the  day.  The  river  is 
crowded  between  steep  sandy  bluffs,  for  many  miles,  and  the, 
entire  valley  on  both  sides  of  it  presents  a  most  barren  and 
desolate  aspect.  About  five  o'clock,  p.  m.,  we  found  an  open- 
ina:  in  the  bluffs,  and  descended  into  a  large  chcidar  basin 
covered  with  a  growth  of  willows  and  other  small  brush,  which 
I  conjectiu-ed  was  the  "  Sink,"  but  I  was  mistaken.  We  de- 
scended into  this  basin  down  a  steep  bank  or  precipice,  and 
encamped  in  a  small  opening  among  the  willows,  imder  the 
bluflf. 

Brown's  horse  gave  out  entirely  to-day,  and  was  left  on  the 
road  about  six  miles  from  our  camp.  Brookey  did  not  reach 
oui'  camp  until  dark.  It  has  been  a  miserable  and  most  fa- 
tiguing day's  journey,  the  sun  shining  with  such  intense  heat, 
that  the  perspiration  rolled  from  my  face  in  large  drops. 

After  considerable  labor,  we  cut  a  way  through  the  thick 
brush  and  willows  to  the  river,  and  got  our  mules  down  to  the 
water.  In  the  bed  of  the  stream  we  found  large  quantities  of 
muscles.  Miller  brought  a  bucketful  of  them  to  camp,  and 
made  of  them  a  soup,  which  was  not  ungrateful  to  the  j.a'ate. 
Distance  30  miles. 

August  18. — We  were  in  our  saddles,  and  imder  way,  as  the 
sailors  say,  very  early  this  morning,  there  being  notlrng  in 
the  features  of  our  camp  to  entice  delay  a  moment  b*:yond 
tiie  time  necessary  to  prepare  our  coffee  and  fried  bacon  ;  the 
rtst  of  which,  by  the  way,  has  become  very  rancid,  and  is 
tovered    witli  a  thick  coating  of  tlin  dust  of  the  desert.     Thf 


AGREEABLE    MEETING.  209 

extreme  heat  of  the  sun  during  the  day,  has  melted  and  wasted 
nearly  all  the  unctuous  qualities  of  our  meat,  leaving  Uttle  else 
than  the  skin  and  cartilage,  and  these  in  a  very  bad  tondition. 

Travelhng  usually  in  front  of  our  party,  I  had  watched 
with  much  interest  and  scrutiny  the  trail  of  the  two  emigrant 
wagons  in  tidvance  of  us  wlien  we  struck  Mary's  river.  I  was 
fully  satislied  from  the  freshness  of  the  signs  on  the  trail,  and 
the  number- of  their  encampments,  that  we  could  not  be  more 
than  a  day  in  the  rear  at  this  point ;  and  I  determined,  if 
possible,  to  overtake  them  this  morning,  and  obtain  from  them, 
if  they  had  it  to  spare,  provision  sufficient  to  carry  us  into  the 
settlements  of  California.  As  soon,  therefore,  as  our  party  were 
all  fau'ly  on  the  march,  I  urged  my  mule  forward  at  a  rapid 
pace,  leaving  my  fellow-travellers,  in  a  short  time,  far  behind 
me,  and  out  of  sight. 

After  crossing  a  totally  barren  plain,  ten  miles  wide,  I  saw 
at  an  apparent  distance  of  five  or  six  miles,  two  white  specks 
upon  a  gentle  swell  of  the  plain,  surroimded  by  verdant  vegeta- 
tion. These  specks  I  instantly  knew  to  be  the  wagons  ;  and  as 
I  could  perceive  no  motion,  I  was  satisfied  that  they  were  en- 
camped. Increasing  the  speed  of  my  mule  by  a  liberal  applica- 
tion of  spur  and  whip,  it  was  not  long  before  I  approached  the 
wagons. 

I  must  remark  here,  by  the  way,  that  the  sight  of  an  emigrant 
wagon  in  these  wildernesses  and  deserts,  produces  the  same 
emotions  of  pleasure  as  are  felt  by  the  way-worn  and  benighted 
traveller,  within  the  boundaries  of  civilization,  when  approaching 
some  hospitable  cottage  or  mansion  on  the  roadside.  More 
intense,  perhaps,  because  the  white  tent-cloth  of  the  wagon  is  a 
certain  sign  of  welcome  hospitality,  in  such  form  as  can  be 
afforded  by  the  ever  liberal  proprietor,  who  without  stint,  even 
though  lie  might  have  but  a  single  meal,  would  cheerfully 
di\'ide  it  among  his  stranger  visiters.  Civilization  cannot  always 
boast  of  such  dispensers  of  hospitality  ;  but  among  the  emigrants 
to  the  Pacific,  it  is  nearly  universal. 

When  the  company  of  men  belonging  to  tlie  wagons  dis- 
covered me  at  a  distance,  much  apparent  surprise  was  mani- 

18* 


2J0  MESSRS.    CRAIG    AND   STANLEY. 

Tested.  A  solitary  individual  m  this  abandoned  region,  xras  wel3 
calculated  to  excite  curiosity.  I  saw  several  of  them  mounted 
upon  the  tops  of  theh  wagons,  to  obtain,  as  I  supposed,  a  cor- 
rect idea  of  my  nationahty  and  purposes.  When  I  came  up  to 
the  camp,  I  was  greeted  in  the  most  cordial  manner,  with  every 
mark  of  kindness  that  I  should  expect  from  my  dearest  friends. 
I  soon  explained  to  them  the  natme  and  purpose  of  my  visit, 
and  received  such  a  response  as  was  entirely  satisfactory. 

The  proprietors  of  the  two  wagons  were  Messrs.  Craig  ana 
Stanley,  from  Ray  county,  Missoviri,  accompanied  by  six  oi 
eight  yoimg  men.  I  learned  from  them  that  they  left  Fort 
HaU  on  the  23d  aay  of  July,  and  are  some  twelve  or  fifteen 
days  in  advance  of  all  the  other  emigrant  trains  boimd  for 
California.  The  intentions  of  Messrs.  Craig  and  Stanley,  are  to 
visit  California  first ;  and  after  travelling  over  it,  to  explore  the 
fertile  districts  of  Oregon  ;  and  if  upon  an  examination  they  are 
pleased  with  either  of  these  countries,  they  design  to  dispose  of 
their  property  in  the  United  States,  and  settle  on  the  Pacific. 
Messrs.  C»  and  S.  are  highly  intelligent  and  respectable  gentle 
men,  and  I  derived  from  them  much  interesting  and  useful 
information  in  regard  to  the  emigrant  route,  via  Fort  Hall. 

Our  party  came  up  in  about  an  hour  and  a  half  after  my 
arrival ;  and  the  grass  being  good,  with  a  plentiful  supply,  in  a 
reedy  slough,  of  tolerable  cool  and  fresh  water,  we  determined 
to  encamp  for  the  day.  Messrs.  Craig  and  Stanley  are  im- 
pressed with  the  belief,  that  we  have  reached  the  "  Sink"  of 
Mary's  river ;  that  is,  the  place  where  the  waters  of  the  river 
cease  to  flow,  and  disappear  in  the  dry  and  thirsting  sands  of  the 
desert.  They  informed  me  that  some  of  the  members  of  the 
parly  had  made  a  reconnaissance  of  sevcial  miles  to  the  south 
and  southeast,  ;ind  hud  not  been  able  to  discover  any  water 
beyond  this  point.  1  nevertheless  felt  douljlful  in  legard  tt> 
ihis  supposition,  as  tlie  placi;  did  not  entiiely  correspond  witL 
the  description  I  had  received  of  tlie  "  Sink." 

Messrs.  Craig  and  Stanley,  in  the  course  of  the  afternoct, 
ilthough  their  sujjjily  of  provisions  was  not  more  than  equal  t: 
»Jieir  probable  consumption,  before  tbey  would  reach  the  sctiija- 


FRIENDLY    INDIANS.  211 

ments  of  California,  generously  furnished  us  with  a  quantity  of 
floxir  and  bacon,  which  I  believed  would  be  nearly  or  quite 
sufficient  for  our  wants.  They  would  accept  of  no  compensa- 
tion for  this  very  great  favor ;  and  I  consider  myself,  as  well  as 
every  member  of  oxu*  party,  under  the  highest  obUgations  to 
them,  for  their  most  liberal  manifestation  of  kindness  and  hospi- 
tality. 

Two  Digger  Indians  came  into  our  camp  about  sunset.  One 
of  them  mounted  on  a  miserably  lean  and  broken  down  horse  , 
and  the  other  walking  by  the  side  of  the  swarthy,  and  nearly 
naked  savage  Caballero.  The  mounted  man  was  the  spokesman ; 
the  other  appearing  to  act  in  the  capacity  of  a  servant,  or  a 
personage  of  inferior  consequence.  After  the  first  salutations, 
and  shaking  of  hands,  the  piincipal  desired  a  smoke.  A  pipe 
was  produced,  filled  with  tobacco,  and  lighted.  Most  of  our 
party,  as  usual,  declined  a  participation  in  this  friendly  ceremonial 
of  the  savages  ;  but  I  took  my  turn  at  the  pipe,  and  puffed 
with  a  gusto  equalling  that  of  our  two  sable  and  naked  visiters. 

The  ceremony  of  smoking  being  concluded,  the  several  mem- 
bers of  the  party  commenced  a  conversation  with  our  good- 
natured  visiters.  When  one  of  the  party  spoke  in  English,  the 
chief  Indian  would  invariably  imitftte  \n\\\  great  precision  the 
sound  of  each  word  to  the  end  of  the  sentence.  The  remarkable 
accuracy  of  this  repetition  or  imitation,  accompanied  as  it  was 
with  an  indescribable  comic  action,  was  highly  amusing,  and 
produced  peal  upon  peal  of  loud  laughter.  This  sport  continued 
around  oiu-  willow  fires  long  after  dark. 

A  member  of  Messrs.  Craig  and  Stanley's  party,  who  for  a 
number  of  years  had  been  a  trapper  in  the  mountains,  and  was 
considerably  skilled  in  the  significance  of  Indian  signs,  after- 
wards held  a  conversation  with  the  principal  Indian,  and  learned 
from  him,  that  a  short  day's  journey  woiild  bring  us  to  some 
pools  of  standing  water,  and  that  after  this,  we  would  find  no 
water  or  grass  for  a  long  distance.  The  time  was  indicated 
by  pointing  to  the  coui'se  of  the  sun  and  its  positions  when  the 
incidents  respecting  which  we  inqmred  would  take  place. 
Other  matters  were  explained  by  a  similar  reference  to  object* 


212  FRIENDLY  INDIANS. 

connected  with  and  illustrative  of  those  inq  aired  about.  The 
information  derived  from  this  conversation  was  not  sufficiently 
clear  to  solve  the  doubt,  as  to  whether  this  was  or  was  not  the 
"  Sink"  of  Mary's  river. 

Before  our  company  retired  to  rest,  I  instructed  the  sentinel 
first  on  duty,  to  communicate  to  those  who  succeeded  him,  that 
the  two  Indians  were  not  to  be  permitted  to  leave  the  principal 
camp-fire  untU  morning,  under  any  pretext.  I  did  not  know 
what  designs  upon  our  animals  they  might  entertain  them- 
selves, or  what  concealed  associates  they  might  have  to  assist 
them.  This  order  was  communicated  to  the  Indians  in  a  man- 
ner which  they  could  not  misimderstand,  and  they  submitted 
without  the  slightest  opposition.  One  of  them  (the  sers-ing 
man,  who  was  so  obliging  as  several  times  during  the  evening 
to  bring  us  water  from  the  slough)  had  a  small  garment  oi 
shawl,  made  of  hare-skins  sewn  together,  about  a  yard  in  diam- 
eter. We  gave  the  two  a  skin  to  spread  on  the  groxmd  for 
their  bed,  and  coiling  themselves  up  in  an  incredibly  small 
space,  the  hare-skin  shawl  or  blanket  covered  their  bodies,  heads 
and  feet  entirely.  How  they  managed  to  compress  their  per- 
sons into  so  small  a  space,  is  a  marvel.     Distance  16  mUes. 

August  19. — I  rose  this  morning  before  it  was  light,  and 
approaching  the  embers  of  our  watch-fire,  which  had  been  kept 
burning  during  the  night  by  those  on  duty,  the  first  object  I 
discovered  was  the  two  Indians  coiled  up,  and  enveloped  in  the 
yard-square  of  rabbit-skins,  as  I  had  left  them  when  I  retired  to 
my  bivouac  last  night.  Tliey  were  in  a  profound  slumber, 
evincing  tlieir  perfect  confidence  in  our  good  faith  in  regard  to 
them.  1  touched  this  small  round  heap  of  human  flesh  gently 
with  my  foot,  when  they  roused  from  their  sleep,  and  rubbing 
their  eyes,  sat  upright  before  the  faint  blaze  made  by  the  dry 
willow  twigs  I  had  placed  upon  the  fire.  The  elder  and  more 
consequential  of  the  two,  ordered  the  other  to  go  and  collect 
some  fuel,  which  service  he  performed  with  much  promptitude, 
bringing  in  a  large  bundle  of  dead  sage-bushes,  wliich  igi^iting 
upon  the  fire,  burned  with  a  brilliant  blaze.  During  the  ab- 
sence of  the  junior  or  serving  Indian,  his  nakedness,  the  seignior 


SINK  OF  Mary's  river.  213 

or  master,  gave  many  shrugs  and  shivers,  showing  conclusively 
that  the  cool  morning  atmosphere  did  not  strike  agreeably  upon 
his  bare  skin,  and  he  pointed  with  much  meaning  and  earnest- 
ness to  my  coarse  palto,  as  being  an  excellent  protection  against 
the  chills  of  the  morning. 

Dayhght  dawning,  our  party  was  roused,  and  our  morning 
meal  prepared  and  discussed  with  all  practicable  dispatch, — 
as  we  felt  certain  that  we  had  a  long  and  dreary  day's  march 
before  us.  The  two  Indians  were  regaled  with  such  food  as  wp 
subsisted  upon  ourselves,  and  then  dismissed,  apparently  well 
satisfied  with  our  treatment  and  attention,  parting  from  us  with 
the  most  good-natured  countenances  and  gesticulations. 

Leaving  the  grassy  oasis  upon  which  we  were  encamped  a 
Uttle  after  sunrise,  and  travelling  a  few  miles,  we  turned  the 
point  of  a  mountain,  the  slope  of  which  juts  into  the  plain  on  the 
right.  From  this  point  the  trail  takes  a  southwest  course,  and 
runs  across  a  totally  barren  plain,  with  the  exception  of  a  few 
clumps  of  sage-bushes,  a  distance  of  twenty  miles.  No  sign 
of  the  river  or  of  the  existence  of  water  indicated  itself  within 
this  distance.  Some  remarkable  petrifactions  displayed  them- 
selves near  the  trail  early  this  morning.  They  had  all  the 
appearance  of  petrified  fungi,  and  many  of  them  were  of 
large  dimensions.  The  surface  of  the  plain  is  generally  soft 
and  Ught.  In  places  a  dark  scorious  and  \'itreous  gravel  is 
mingled  with  the  ashy  and  alkaline  composition.  This  gravel 
is  sharp  and  very  severe  upon  the  hoofs  of  our  animals. 

At  the  southern  edge  of  this  plain  we  came  to  some  pools  of 
standing  water,  as  described  by  the  Indians  last  night,  covered 
with  a  yellowish  slime,  and  emitting  a  most  disagreeable  fetor. 
The  margins  of  these  pools  are  whitened  with  an  alkaline  de- 
posite,  and  green  tufts  of  a  coarse  grass,  and  some  reeds  or 
flags,  raise  themselves  above  the  snow-like  soil.  I  procured 
from  one  of  the  pools  a  cup  of  the  water,  and  found  it  so  thor- 
oughly saturated  with  alkali,  that  it  would  be  dangerous  for 
ourselves  or  our  animals  to  make  use  of  it.  It  was  as  acrid  and 
bitter  as  the  strongest  lye  filtered  through  ashes,  'ishmy  of  our 
animals  being  excessively  thirsty,  rushed  to  the  pools  imraedh 


214  DESERT  PLAIN. 

ately  after  we  approached  them,  but  upon  tasting  the  water, 
they  turned  from  it  with  disappointment  and  disgust. 

A  ridge  of  low  sand-hills  runs  entirely  across  the  plain  or 
valley  immediately  below  these  pools,  and  from  these  features 
corresponding  in  some  particulars  with  the  description  I  had 
previously  received  of  it,  I  was  compelled  to  believe  that  this 
was  the  "  Sink  of  Mary^s  river"  instead  of  the  place  where  we 
had  encamped  last  night. 

It  was  nearly  two  o'clock,  p.  m.,  when  we  reached  these  pools, 
and  from  them  (supposing  them,  as  was  the  fact,  to  be  the 
"  Sink")  to  the  waters  of  Truckee,  or  Salmon  Trout  river,  by 
the  best  information  and  estimate,  it  is  forty-five  mUes.  Some 
of  our  party  were  in  favor  of  encamping  here,  forbidding  as  the 
place  was  in  all  its  aspects.  But  I  immediately  came  to  the 
conclusion  that  to  encamp  at  this  place,  would  be  not  only  use- 
less to  ourselves,  so  far  as  rest  and  comfort  were  concerned, 
but  dangerous,  in  our  thirsty  state,  both  to  us  and  our  animals. 
In  preference,  therefore,  I  determined  to  proceed  on  our  march, 
and  oncamp  in  the  desert  beyond,  without  grass  or  water. 
Adopting  this  plan,  we  would  by  diligence,  before  sunset,  ap- 
proach to  within  twenty  or  twenty-five  miles  of  water  and  grass, 
and  by  starting  early,  after  resting  our  animals  six  or  eight 
hours,  we  could  reach  Truckee  river  before  our  own  thirst  and 
the  thirst  and  hunger  of  oui-  mules  became  \mbearable. 

We  passed  from  the  pools  or  "  Sink  "  over  the  low  ridge  of 
sand-hills,  in  a  south  course.  Our  mules  waded  through  these 
bills,  or  heaps  of  dry  and  ashy  earth,  rather  than  walked  over 
them,  sinking  in  many  places  nearly  to  their  bellies,  and  mani- 
festing tlie  strongest  signs  of  exhaustion.  The  dim  outlines  of 
mountains  cou)d  be  seen  through  the  dense  smoky  vapor  im- 
pregnating the  atmosphere,  about  fifteen  or  twenty  mUes  in 
front.  The  plain  is  utterly  destitute  of  vegetation,  with  the 
exception  of  an  occassional  strip  of  sage  on  tlie  swells,  and  a 
few  patches  of  brown  grass,  and  lierc  and  there  a  small  clump 
of  straggling  flags  or  reeds,  which  seem  to  war  for  an  existence 
witli  the  parched  and  ungenerous  soil. 

We  ascended  the  ridge  of  mountains  just  noticed,  by  an  easy 


SCORIOUS  MOUNTAINS.  21 

inclined  plain.  Some  miles  before  we  commenced  the  ascent,  I 
observed  on  the  slope  of  the  plain  a  line  of  perpendicular  rocks, 
forming  a  wall,  with  occasional  high  elevations,  representing 
watch-towers  and  turrets.  A  low  gap  afforded  us  an  easy  pas- 
sage between  the  mountains,  which  are  composed  of  nearly 
black  basaltic  rocks.  The  whole  country  in  this  vicinity,  at  no 
very  remote  period,  has  evidently  been  under  the  action  of  vol- 
canic fires.  The  rocks  are  cinders,  and  the  earthy  substances 
with  which  they  are  mingled  are  ashes. 

From  the  summit  of  the  ridge,  I  had  a  view  of  the  shadowy 
outlines  of  another  range  of  mountains  to  the  west  of  us,  at  an 
apparent  distance  of  twenty  miles.  The  smoke  was  so  dense 
that  I  could  determme  nothing  satisfactorily  in  regard  to  the 
valley  between  us  and  this  range  of  mountains,  but  I  enter- 
tained a  strong  hope  that  we  should  find  a  stream  of  water 
here.  This  hope,  however,  was  disappointed.  Just  as  the  sun 
was  smking  behind  the  spiral  and  dismal-looking  summits  of  the 
western  mountains,  and  before  we  had  descended  into  the  bot- 
tom, the  trail  tui-ncd  abruptly  to  the  left,  keeping  along  the 
slope  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  valley.  I  immediately  gave  up 
all  expectations  of  water  or  grass  to-night,  as  a  more  utterly 
barren  prospect  than  that  presented  before  us  is  not  conceivable. 
It  was  impossible  for  us  to  proceed  much  further,  as  several  of 
o\U"  party,  whose  mules  were  nearly  exhausted,  were  at  this 
point  a  long  distance  in  the  rear,  and  would  find  it  difficult  to 
urge  their  over-labored  animals  even  a  few  miles. 

A  point  in  the  valley,  formed  by  the  jutting  of  a  low  hUl  or 
bench  of  the  mountain,  about  two  mUes  before  me,  seemed  to 
be  a  suitable  position  for  cur  encampment,  under  the  cncum- 
stances,  for  the  night,  or  for  the  few  hours  necessary  to  rest  our 
mules,  before  continuing  our  march.  While  marching  towards 
this  point,  I  noticed  to  the  left,  or.  './.t  declivity  of  the  moun- 
tain, a  small  patch  of  groimd  displaying  a  pale  yellowish  vege- 
tation. A  phenomenon  so  singular  amidst  the  brown  sterility 
of  mountain  and  valley,  excited  my  curiosity,  and  I  thought  it 
not  impossible  that  we  might  find  there  a  small  quantity  of 
vater.     Calling  Miller,  I  requested  him  to  ride  up  to  the  spot 


216  REMARKABLE  BOILING  SPRINGS. 

and  ascei'tain  what  the  yellowish  growth  miglit  be.  He  T?aa 
quickly  at  the  place  designated,  and  very  soon  afterwards, 
taking  off  his  cap,  swung  it  round  and  round,  nearly  overjoyed 
at  the  discovery  he  had  made,  which  we  all  immediately  knew 
to  be  a  spring.  Had  he  discovered  a  mine  of  solid  gold,  or  a 
ton  of  diamonds,  it  would,  in  our  thirsty  condition,  have  pro- 
duced no  other  sensations  than  those  of  extreme  disappointment. 
Water  was  what  we  craved,  and  a  universe  of  glittering  wealth 
would  not  have  weighed  in  the  balance  of  our  desires  against  it. 

Tiu-ning  short  to  the  left,  I  rode  up  the  slope  to  where  Miller 
was  still  standing.  JBefore  I  reached  him,  I  could  perceive  a 
sensible  moderation  in  his  joyous  manifestations.  I  asked  him 
if  he  had  found  water  ?  He  answered  that  he  had,  but  that  his 
mule,  in  attempting  to  drink  out  of  a  hole,  had  nearly  scalded 
its  tongue  ofif.  I  could  see  that  the  mule  Avas  suffering  consid- 
erable pain  from  the  effects  of  the  boihng  hot  water  which,  in- 
cautiously, it  had  attempted  to  drink. 

Passing  a  little  further  along,  I  found  myself  in  the  midst  of 
a  hundred  or  more  holes  or  small  basins,  varying  from  two  to 
ten  feet  in  diameter,  of  boiling  water.  Searching  about,  I  found 
in  a  ravine  a  small  basin  of  water,  that  oozed  sluggishly  through 
a  stratum  of  earth,  which,  although  quite  warm,  was  not  burn- 
ing hot.  I  drank  copiously  of  this  water,  and  the  other  mem- 
bers of  our  party,  and  our  mules,  coming  up,  one  after  another, 
drank  likewise.  But  as  soon  as  the  stock  in  the  basin  was  ex- 
hausted, the  new  supply  that  flowed  in  became  too  hot  for  use. 
We  encamped  here,  after  a  ride  of  twelve  hours,  tying  ow. 
mules  closely  to  the  wild  sage-bushes,  to  prevent  ihem  from 
falhiig  into  the  boiling  holes  by  which  they  were  sur"ounded. 

These  springs  are  a  great  curiosity,  on  account  of  their  va- 
riety and  the  singularity  of  their  action  and  deposites.  The 
deposite  from  one  liad  fori.icd  a  liollow  pyrninid  of  reddish  clay, 
about  eight  feet  in  lieight,  and  six  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base, 
tapering  to  a  point.  There  were  several  air-holes  near  the  top, 
and  inside  of  it  the  waters  were  rumbling,  and  the  steam  puff' 
Log  through  the  air-holes  with  great  violence.  M'ller  thre-w 
Btoaea  at  the  cap  of  this  pyramid.    It  broke  like  brittle  pottery. 


BOILING  SPRINGS.  817 

and  the  red  and  turbid  waters  ran  down  the  sides  of  the  frail 
structure  which  they  had  erected.  Not  far  from  this  was  a 
small  basin,  and  a  hvely  but  diminutive  stream  nmning  from  it, 
of  water  as  white  as  milk,  which,  indeed,  it  greatly  resembled. 
I  cooled  some  of  it  in  my  cup,  and  drinking,  found  it  not  unpal- 
atable. It  was  impregnated  with  magnesia.  In  another  basin, 
the  water  wavS  thickened,  almost  to  the  consistence  of  slack  mor- 
tar, with  a  blue  clay.  It  was  rolling  and  tumbhng  about  with 
activity,  and  volumes  of  steam,  accompanied  with  loud  puffing 
reports,  ascended  from  it.  The  water  of  the  largest  basin 
(about  ten  feet  in  diameter)  was  limpid,  and  impregnated  with 
salt  and  sulphur.  From  this  basin,  when  we  encamped,  a 
small  stream  ran  down  the  slope.  The  rock  surroimding  these 
springs  is  a  mere  shell  or  crust,  formed,  doubtless,  by  a  depos- 
ite  from  the  overflowing  waters  from  the  basins  or  holes,  which 
are  so  many  ventilators  for  the  escape  of  the  steam  from  the 
heated  and  boiling  mass  of  liquid  beneath. 

We  made  a  dam  across  the  stream  flowing  from  the  large 
basin,  some  distance  below  it,  by  raking  together  the  slight  cov- 
ering of  earth  upon  the  rocks.  We  thus  collected  a  considera- 
ble body  of  water,  which,  cooling,  was  more  palatable  to  our- 
selves and  our  mules  than  any  which  we  had  before  obtained. 
This  dam  was  enlarged  before  we  retired  for  the  night,  in  order 
that  we  might  have  an  abundant  supply  of  cool  water,  brackish 
and  bitter  though  it  was,  in  the  morning. 

As  we  moved  about  our  camp  after  dark,  we  were  in  con- 
stant danger  of  falling  into  the  scalding  and  bottomless  basins 
or  holes  by  which  we  were  surrounded.  Fortunately  no  accident 
occurred.  The  ground  under  our  blankets  was  quite  warm, 
from  the  efl"ects  of  the  heated  matter  rolling,  bubbling,  and  puff- 
ing in  the  bowels  of  the  earth.  Every  thing  around  is  sufficiently 
cheerless  and  desolate  to  depress  tlie  most  buoyant  tempera- 
ment. The  sable  and  utterly  sterile  moiuitains,  the  barren  and 
arid  plain,  incapable  of  sustaining  either  insect  or  animal,  pre- 
sent a  dreariness  of  scenery  that  would  be  almost  overpower- 
ing in  its  influences,  but  for  the  hope  of  more  pleasing  scenes 
oeyond.     Distance  45  mi:es. 

19 


S18  SUBTERRANEAN  STEAl'l   POWSJl. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Mirage — Phantom  cataract — Signs  of  water — Truckee  river — Insanity  pio« 
duced  by  apprehension  and  excitement — Enter  the  California  moun< 
tains — Mountain  forests — Mountain  valley — Truckee  river  Indians — 
Cold  nights — Mountain  lake — Origin  of  the  name  of  Truckee  river  and 
lake — Scenery  of  the  Sierra  Nevada — Log-cabin  erected  by  emigrants  in 
distress — Mountain  raspberry — Pass  of  the  Sierra — Uber  valley — Spring 
in  August — An  attack  by  hornets — Beautiful  encampment — Human 
BkuU. 

August  20. — The  disquiet  of  our  animals,  thirsting  for  water, 
and  famishing  for  food,  kept  me  awake  nearly  the  whole  night. 
As  soon  as  the  stars  indicated  the  approach  of  the  morning,  I 
woke  my  fellow-travellers,  and  a  cup  of  coffee  having  been 
made  from  the  hot  water  of  the  springs,  a  little  after  daylight 
we  were  ready  to  take  leave  of  our  dismal  encampment. 

Much  to  our  astonishment  and  disappointment,  when  we 
visited  the  dam  and  reservoir  of  water  constructed  last  night,  it 
was  entirely  dry.  Not  a  drop  of  water  was  contained  in  it. 
Tlie  stream  from  the  basin  had  ceased  to  flow.  When  I  first 
woke  this  morning,  there  was  no  sound  of  the  agitation  of  wa- 
ter in  any  of  the  basins ;  but  just  as  we  were  about  to  depart, 
the  rumbling  and  rolling,  and  the  loud  puffs,  accompanied  by 
fog-like  volumes  of  steam  from  the  boiling  liquid  beneath  us, 
were  resumed  with  an  energy  greatly  increased  from  what  I 
observed  on  our  first  arrival.  One  of  our  party  noticing  this 
display  of  infernal  steam-power,  exclaimed,  "  Let  us  be  off : — 
A — II  is  firiny  up  ;"  and  it  did,  indeed,  seem  as  if  the  machinery 
of  the  vast  workshops  in  the  subterranean  recesses  of  nature, 
had  just  been  put  in  operation  for  the  day,  by  the  spirits  and 
powers  of  the  middle  earth. 

About  throe  miles  from  our  encampment,  I  Iscovered  in  the 
bank  of  a  ravine,  crossed  by  the  trail,  a  faint  spring.  The  wa- 
Uir  barely  oozing  from  the  earth,  although  cool,  was  bitter,  and 


TRUCKEE  RIVER.  219 

the  quantity  was  so  small,  that  we  could  with  difficulty  obtan 
a  cupful.  A  ride  of  several  hours  down  the  valley,  brought 
us  to  a  ridge  of  sandy  hills  running  entirely  across  it. 

In  the  coiu-se  of  the  morning,  I  noticed  the  phenomenon  of 
mirage  in  great  perfection,  A  wide  cascade  or  cataract  of  glitter- 
ing, foaming,  and  tumbling  waters  was  represented  and  perfectly 
well  defined  on  the  slope  of  the  mountain  to  our  left,  at  an  appa- 
rent distance  of  five  or  six  miles.  Below  this,  was  a  limpid  lake, 
so  calm  and  mirror-liVe  that  it  reflected  with  all  the  distinct- 
ness of  reajity,  the  tall,  inverted  shapes  of  the  mountains  and  all 
the  scenery  beyond  its  tempting  but  illusory  surface.  Nature,  in 
this  desert  region,  if  she  does  not  furnish  the  reahty,  frequently 
presents  the  ghosts  of  beautiful  objects  and  scenery. 

The  distance  across  the  ridge,  or  rather  elevated  plain  of 
sandy  undulations,  is  about  ten  miles.  Over  this  plain  the 
travelling  is  very  laborious.  We  were  compelled  to  dismount 
from  our  animals,  weakened  as  they  were  by  thirst  and  hunger, 
in  order  to  get  them  along  through  the  deep  sand.  Soon  after 
rising  upon  this  plain,  I  noticed  first  the  footprints  on  the  sand 
of  hares,  afterv/ards  of  wolves,  and  presently  of  a  variety  of 
animals,  all  of  which  seemed  to  have  travelled  in  the  same  di- 
rection that  we  were  pursuing ; — a  certain  indication  that  we 
were  on  the  right  course  for  water,  and  no  great  distance  from 
it.  We  crossed  an  Indian  foot-trail  very  deep,  wide,  and  fresh, 
showing  that  Indians  to  the  number  of  several  hundred  must 
have  passed  along  within  a  short  time.  This  trail  leads  to  the 
Pyramid  lake  into  which  the  waters  of  Truckee  river  debouche, 
and  sink  or  evaporate.  The  Indians  of  this  region  take  lai'ge 
quantities  of  salmon-trout  from  this  lake. 

At  half-past  12  o'clock,  we  saw  at  the  distance  of  about  two 
miles,  the  course  of  Truckee  river,  indicated  by  a  line  of  wil- 
lows, grass,  and  other  green  herbage,  and  a  number  of  tall 
trees, — the  last  a  sight  that  has  not  saluted  us  for  five  hundred 
mUes.  Our  animals,  as  if  reinvigorated  by  the  prospect  of 
grass  and  the  scent  of  water,  lushed  forward  with  great  speed, 
and  we  were  soon  in  the  middle  of  the  stream,  from  the  clear 
corrent  of  which  all  drank  copious  draughts.     We  immediately 


220  CRT  OF  DISTRESS. 

crossed  to  the  bottom  on  the  opposite  side  and  encamped,  much 
fatigued,  as  the  reader  may  imagine. 

Truckee  river  at  this  point  is  about  fifty  feet  in  breadth,  with 
a  rapid  current  of  clear  water  about  two  feet  in  depth  and  a 
gi-avelly  bed.  The  bottom,  or  fertile  land,  is  here  about  a  mile 
in  width,  with  a  growth  of  small  willows,  hawthorns,  and  a  few 
tall  cotton- wood  trees.  In  the  openings,  wild  peas  and  a  variety 
of  grasses  and  other  herbage,  grow  with  luxuriance.  The  shade 
of  the  trees  is  most  agreeable,  and  adds  greatly  to  the  pleasant- 
ness of  our  encampment,  when  contrasting  our  cool  shelter  from 
the  sun,  "n'ith  its  scorching  fervor  upon  the  surrounding  desola- 
tion. We  angled  in  the  river,  but  contrary  to  our  expecta- 
tions, caught  no  fish.  Some  of  our  party  killed  a  duck  or  two. 
Game  sign  is  abimdant,  but  the  Indians,  who  have  recently 
been  here  in  large  numbers,  have  driven  oflF  the  game.  Dis- 
tance 20  miles, 

August  21. — I  was  wakened  from  a  profoimd  slumber,  this 
morning,  by  piercing  shrieks  and  wailings.  I  was  not  quite 
certain  when  I  woke,  whether  it  was  a  dream  or  reaUty.  Satis- 
fying myself  that  I  was  not  asleep,  I  listened  attentively  for  a 
repetition  of  the  strange  and  mournful  sounds  which  had  dis- 
turbed my  repose.  Tliey  were  soon  renewed  with  greater 
distinctness  than  before,  and  appeared  to  proceed  from  some 
animal,  or  person  in  distress  or  danger,  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river.  They  soon,  however,  ceased  altogether,  and  it  being 
quite  dark,  exhausted  as  I  was,  I  concluded  that  1  would  lie 
down  again,  and  when  dayliglu  dawned,  ascertain  the  cause  of 
these  singular  vocal  performances  in  tliis  desert  region.  I  soon 
fell  asleep  again,  however,  and  did  not  wake  until  after  sunrise. 

When  I  rose,  Messrs.  Craig  and  Stanley  were  riding  towards 
our  camp,  and  they  informed  us  that  their  wagons  had  reached 
the  opposite  bank  of  the  river  just  before  daylight,  having 
^ravelled  all  night,  and  that  they  were  now  crossing  the  stream 
for  the  purpose  of  encamping  for  the  day.  1  was  much  grati- 
fied that  these,  our  good  friends,  had  crossed  the  desert  in 
safety,  and  liad  reached  a  point  where  they  could  recruit  their 
animabt.     I  inquii'ed   of  them,  if  they  Lid    heard  the  tihrielu 


IN8ANS  MAM.  821 

and  wailings  which  had  disturbed  my  slumbers  early  in  the 


mornmg  / 

Mr.  Craig  informed  me  that  one  of  their  party,  soon  after 
leaving  the  boiling  springs,  from  some  cause  had  become  quite 
fi-antic,  with,  as  he  lioped,  temporary  insanity,  brought  on  by 
the  fatigues  and  hardships  of  the  march,  or  from  diinking  the 
impure  water  of  the  desert.  They  had  been  compelled  to 
place  him  mside  of  one  of  the  wagons  and  confine  him  to  it,  in 
order  to  get  him  along.  .When,  early  this  morning,  they  com- 
menced the  descent  of  the  bluffs  to  the  river,  he  leaped  from 
the  wagon,  under  the  mlluence  of  a  paroxysm  of  insanity  with 
loud  cries  and  shrieks,  and  after  describing  several  times  by 
his  movements,  a  circle,  he  declared  that  the  destiny  of  Provi- 
dence, so  far  as  regarded  himself,  was  accomplished ;  that 
nothing  more  was  expected  of  him  or  could  be  demanded  from 
him,  and  he  was  willing  to  submit  to  his  fate  and  die  on  that 
spot,  and  be  bmied  within  that  circle.  It  was  some  time,  and 
the  united  strength  of  two  or  three  men  was  required,  before 
he  coidd  be  got  back  again  into  the  wagon. 

By  the  request  of  Mr.  Craig,  after  his  camp  was  made,  I 
visited  the  man  so  strangely  attacked.  His  paroxysms  had  con- 
siderably abated  in  then  strength,  and  he  seemed  to  be  return- 
ing to  a  more  rational  state  of  mind.  He  was  contmually 
endeavoring  to  vomit.  Bemg  a  stout,  \igorous  young  man, 
with  an  abundance  of  hard  muscular  flesh  upon  liim,  and  hav- 
ing an  excited  pulse,  but  not  one  indicating  physical  disease, 
[  inquired  of  him  why  he  so  frequently  endeavored  to  vomit  ? 
He  answered,  that  soon  after  he  left  the  boiling  springs,  strange 
sensations  of  pain  and  apprehension  came  over  him,  and  he  de- 
manded some  remedy  for  them ; — that  a  large  vial  containing 
camphor  partially  dissolved  in  alcohol  was  the  only  medicine 
they  possessed,  which  was  given  to  him ; — that  he  had  first 
drank  the  liquid  solution,  and  then,  as  he  supposed,  in  an  im- 
conscious  state,  had  swallowed  a  quantity  of  the  undissolved 
gum,  for  he  had  already  thrown  up  several  pieces  of  the  size  of 
the  end  of  his  thumb,  and  still  he  beUeved  there  was  a  large 
quantity  inside  of  him.     I  told  him  that  I  would  prepare  an 


222  VALLEY  OF  TRUCKEB. 

emetic  for  him,  by  which  he  would  be  entirely  relieved  and 
restored  to  perfect  health — that  nothing  was  the  matter  with 
him  but  orer-excitement.  He  said  that  he  was  willing  to  take 
the  emetic  to  please  me  and  Mr.  Craig,  but  did  not  conceive  it 
to  be  of  any  utility.  He  was  not  superstitious  or  given  to 
superstitious  freaks  and  notions.  On  the  contrary,  he  was  a 
cool,  calm,  calculating  man,  and  he  was  fully  satisfied  that  his 
appointed  time  under  the  dispensations  of  Providence  had 
an-ived,  and  he  must  die,  and  be  buried  near  this  place.  It 
was  hi  vam  that  I  argued  against  this  delusion,  and  told  him 
that  one  so  robust  and  healthy  could  not  die  even  if  he  wished 
it,  imless  he  took  his  own  life.  The  response  was  the  same, — 
Providence  had  ordered  it — he  had  fulfilled  his  destiny,  and 
here  he  must  die  and  be  buried. 

I  returned  to  my  own  camp,  and  procuring  a  quantity  of 
ipecacuanka,  it  was  administered  to  him.  Under  the  operation 
of  the  emetic,  he  threw  up  nearly  an  ounce  of  the  concrete  gum 
of  camphor.  I  could  not  wonder  after  this  exhibition,  that  he 
imagined  that  his  destiny  was  fulfilled  !  I  visited  him  again  in 
the  afternoon,  and  although  much  more  composed  than  in  the 
morning,  he  was  still  laboring  under  his  original  delusion,  and 
'n  this  state  of  mind  I  left  him. 

The  morning  was  clear,  cool,  and  calm,  but  as  usual,  the 
sun's  rays  in  the  middle  of  the  day  were  intensely  hot.  We 
remained  encamped,  to  recruit  the  strength  of  our  animals, 
which  have  become  much  exhausted  by  the  rapid  drives  down 
Mary's  river,  and  thence  across  the  desert. 

tiugust  22. — We  resumed  our  journey  at  seven  o'clock.  Our 
mules  are  considerably  recruited  by  the  rest  we  have  allowed 
them,  and  by  the  imtritious  grass  and  refreshing  water  at  our 
last  encampment. 

The  valley  of  the  river  for  a  few  miles,  as  we  travelled  up  it, 
is  of  nearly  the  same  width  as  described  at  our  encampment ; 
but  it  soon  contracts,  and  the  river  and  nanow  bottom  are  walled 
in  on  both  sides  by  high  ranges  of  barren  mountains.  Some  of 
these  mountains  are  composed  of  a  reddish  or  brown  sandstone, 
others,  iiigher  up,  of   basalt.      A  few  tall  cotton-wood   trees 


DAINTY  FISH.  223 

occasionally  skirt  the  margin  of  the  river.  These,  with  small 
willows,  and  a  variety  of  diminutive  shrubs  and  rank  weeds, 
with  an  occasional  opening  of  grass,  make  up  the  vegeUition  of 
the  valley. 

The  river  flows  down,  with  a  lively  current  of  Umpid  water, 
over  a  rocky  bed  ;  and  the  green  vegetation  along  its  banks 
contrasts  finely  with  the  brown  sterility  of  the  adjacent  moun- 
tains. My  sensations  whUe  travelhng  along  its  banks  and  in 
sight  of  its  sparkling  waters,  are  something  like  those  expe- 
rienced in  a  stormy  and  wintry  day,  when  comfortably  seated 
in  a  warm  hbrary  or  parlor,  with  a  view  from  the  ^vindow  of  the 
violent  strife  and  bitter  frigidity  of  the  elements  without.  The 
water  and  grass  are  our  comfort,  and  our  security  for  the  reah- 
zation  of  our  hopes,  in  regard  to  our  destination. 

We  travelled  at  a  rapid  gait,  the  traU  being  good  and  our 
spirits  buoyant ;  and  at  three  o'clock,  coming  to  an  excellent 
camping-ground,  with  fine  grass,  water,  and  wood,  we  halted, 
and  encamped  for  the  day.  During  the  day's  march  we  have 
forded  the  river  about  twenty  times.  This  is  necessary,  in  order 
to  avoid  the  canones,  on  one  side  or  the  other  of  the  narrow  val- 
ley. Among  numerous  footprints  of  Indians,  to-day,  I  saw  a 
plain  and  fresh  shoe-track,  showing  that  some  person  who  has 
walked  here  has  had  communication  with  civilization. 

I  experimented  with  the  hook  and  fine  in  the  river  again,  but 
without  success.  Not  even  a  nibble  compensated  my  patient 
perseverance.  Along  the  banks  of  the  river  there  are  myriads 
of  diminutive  toads,-  or  frogs,  about  an  inch  in  length,  which, 
when  disturbed,  leap  into  the  water,  furnishing  abundant  food 
for  all  the  fish  in  the  stream.  The  bait  on  the  hook,  therefore, 
has  no  temptations  for  these  well-fed  gentrj-  of  the  clear  moun- 
tain torrent.     Distance  25  miles. 

August  23. — When  I  rose  this  morning,  just  after  the  dawn 
of  day,  I  discovered  that  the  dew-drops  condensed  upon  an 
India-rubber  cloth  lying  by  my  side,  were  congealed,  and  that 
my  buflfalo-skins  were  hoary  with  frost.  Ice  as  thick  as 
window-glass,  had  also  formed  upon  the  water  left  in  our 
buckets.     The  dawn  was  glorious,  and  the  sun,  when  it  rose 


224  £ANDSOME  MOUNTAIN  VALLEY. 

above  the  moimtain  peaks,  shone  with  unusual  splendor  through 
the  clear  atmosphere. 

We  commenced  our  day's  march  about  eight  o'clock,  contin- 
uing up  the  river,  the  general  course  of  which,  as  far  as  we  have 
followed  it,  is  nearly  from  the  southwest  to  the  northeast.  Ot 
course,  there  are  many  turns  and  windings  which  vary  from  this 
usual  dhection  of  the  current  of  the  stream.  About  twelve 
o'clock  we  emerged  from  the  confined  limits  between  the  high 
ranges  of  mountains,  affording  us,  in  many  places,  room  barely 
sufficient  to  pass,  without  leaving  the  bottom  of  the  river,  into  a 
spacious  and  highly  fertile  valley,  eight  or  ten  mUes  in  diameter. 
The  grasses  in  this  valley  are  very  luxuriant,  and  their  varieties 
numerous.  There  is  no  timber,  with  the  exception  of  the  clumps 
of  small  willows  belting  the  stream,  and  fringing  the  margin  of 
a  deep  and  miry  slough,  which  runs  entirely  across  it.  Pine 
timber,  however,  of  stately  dimensions,  begins  to  exhibit  itself 
on  the  sides  and  summits  of  the  surrounding  mountains.  In 
crossing  the  valley  on  the  southern  side,  we  passed  through 
several  miles  of  tule,  a  species  of  rush,  or  reed,  which  here 
grows  to  the  height  of  eight  feet,  on  the  wet  or  swampy  soil 
We  saw  numbers  of  deer  and  antelope  in  the  valley,  and  I  no- 
ticed in  several  places  fresli  footprints  of  a  horse. 

After  leaving  the  fertile  land  of  the  valley,  the  trail  runs 
over  an  elevated  and  undulating  barren  plain,  witli  a  growth  of 
stunted  sage,  and  a  soil  mixed  witli  sharp  volcanic  gravel,  very 
injurious  to  the  feet  of  our  animals,  some  of  which  have  become 
foot-sore  and  lame.  We  gradually  approached  the  river,  which 
again  becomes  walled  in  by  liigh  mountains,  leaving  the  channel 
and  a  narrow  bottom  alternating  from  one  side  to  the  other,  for 
a  road  or  passage.  During  the  afternoon  we  passed  several 
yellow-pine  trees  in  the  bottom,  of  large  dimensions,  the  trunk 
of  one  of  them  measuring  eighteen  feet  in  circumference.  A 
number  of  Indians  wore  seen  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river 
one  of  whom  had  some  fish.  We  beckoned  to  them  to  come 
over  and  tradi;  with  us,  but  they  vvci'e  either  alanned  or  would 
not  heed  our  signs,  and  soon  disappeared. 

We  encamped  at  four  o'clock,  much  fatigued  with  our  day's 


TIMBER  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS.  22S 

ride.  The  road  has  generally  been  rough  and  rocky,  and  very 
exhausting  to  our  mules.  In  front  of  us,  to  the  west,  there  is 
an  elevated  range  of  densely  timbered  mountains.  Distance 
20  miles. 

August  24. — Our  mules  were  greatly  alarmed  several  times 
during  the  night,  breaking  their  picket-ropes,  and  running  in  all 
directions.  Indians  were  doubtless  prowling  about  for  the  pur- 
poses of  theft,  but  we  saw  none. 

We  resumed  our  march  at  the  usual  hour.  Following  the 
river  between  two  and  three  miles  farther  up,  we  turned  ab- 
ruptly to  the  right,  crossing  its  channel  about  the  thirtieth  time, 
and,  through  a  ravine  or  gorge,  ascended  the  range  of  mountains 
on  o\xr  right.  We  reached  the  summit  of  the  range  by  a  com- 
paratively easy  and  gradual  ascent,  passing  over  some  rocky, 
but  not  difficult  places. 

The  mountains  are  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  tall  and 
symmetrical  timber.  Among  the  varieties  of  trees  I  noticed  the 
yellow  and  white-pine,  the  fir,  the  common  red  cedar,  and  the 
Chinese  arhor  vitce.  Many  of  the  firs  and  cedars  are  two  hun- 
dred feet  in  heifjht,  with  a  diameter  at  the  trunk  of  six  or  eifrht 
feet,  beautifully  tapering  to  a  point.  Nothing  could  be  more- 
agreeable  to  us  than  the  sight  and  the  shade  of  these  stately 
giants  of  the  forest,  piercing  the  sky  with  their  tall  and  arrow- 
straight  forms. 

We  reached  the  summit  of  the  gap  that  affi^rded  us  a  passage 
over  the  mountain,  about  eleven  o'clock,  and  descended  a  Ions 
and  very  steep  declivity  on  the  other  side,  bringing  us  into  a 
small,  oval-shaped  and  grassy  valley,  with  a  faint  spring  branch 
of  pure  cold  water  ninning  through  it.  This  hollow  is  entirely 
surrounded  by  high  mountains.  The  soil  is  rich,  and  the  grass 
and  other  vegetation  luxm'iant.  The  impersonations  of  romance 
and  solitude  could  scarcely  find  a  more  congenial  abode  than 
this  beautiful  and  sequestered  spot. 

The  trail  here  turns  to  the  left  again,  taking  a  nearly  soutli 
coiu'se,  over  a  rolling  country,  h€a\'ily  timbered  with  pines,  firs^ 
and  cedars,  with  occasional  grassy  openings.  At  three  o'clock, 
p.  M.,  we  struck  a  small  str  -am,  flowing  in  a  southeast  coirse, 


226  UNFRIENDLY    INDIANS. 

a  tributary  of  Truckee  river.  We  encamped  in  a  small  fertile 
bottom  on  this  stream. 

Soon  after  we  crossed  Truckee  river  this  morning,  and  just 
as  we  were  commencing  the  ascent  of  the  mountain,  several 
Indians  made  their  appearance,  about  fifty  yards  from  the  traU. 
The  leader  and  chief  was  an  old  man,  with  a  deeply-fuiTOwed 
face.  I  rode  towards  him,  holding  out  my  hand  in  token  of 
friendship.  He  motioned  me  not  to  advance  fm-ther,  but  to 
ass  on  and  leave  him,  as  he  desu'ed  to  have  no  commmiication 
with  us.  I  insisted  upon  the  reason  of  tliis  unfriendly  demon- 
stration ;  assming  him,  as  well  as  I  could  by  signs,  that  we 
desired  to  be  at  peace,  and  to  do  them  no  harm.  His  response 
was,  if  I  imderstood  it,  that  we,  the  whites,  had  slaughtered 
his  men,  taken  his  women  and  children  into  captivity,  and 
drivon  him  out  of  his  country.  I  endeavored  to  assure  hun 
that  we  were  not  of  those  who  had  done  him  and  his  tribe  these 
wrongs,  and  held  out  my  hand  a  second  time,  and  moved  to 
approach  him.  With  great  energy  of  gesticulation,  and  the 
strongest  signs  of  excited  aversion  and  dread,  he  again  motioned 
us  not  to  come  nearer  to  him,  but  to  pass  on  and  leave  him. 
Tlie  other  Indians,  some  six  or  eight  in  number,  took  no  part  in 
the  dialogue,  but  were  standing  in  a  line,  several  yards  from 
their  chief,  with  their  bows  and  arrows  in  their  hands.  Finding 
that  it  would  be  useless,  perhaps  dangerous,  to  press  our  friend- 
sliip  further,  we  continued  our  march.  I  have  but  little  doubt, 
that  these  Indians  are  the  remnant  of  some  tribe  that  has  been 
wantonly  destroyed  in  some  of  the  bloody  Indian  slaughters 
wliich  have  occurred  in  Cahfornia.     Distance  20  miles. 

Au<;ust  25. — The  raornino:  was  clear  and  cold.  Ice  of  the 
thickness  of  window -glass  was  congealed  on  the  surface  of  the 
water  left  in  our  bucket  and  tin  cups.  The  grass  was  white, 
and  stiffened  with  frc«t.  The  extremities  of  my  long  hair  had 
the  h.viry  hue  of  old  tge  Notwithstanding  tliis  severity  of  the 
tempera jire,  and  our  exposure  to  it,  w?  felt  little  or  no  suflfer- 
ing  or  incouvenicnce  from  it. 

Crossing  the  stream  we  travelled  in  a  south  course,  ov«r  low 
hills  and  a  rolling    or    undulating    country,  heavily  timbered 


TRUCKEE    LAKE.  fl^lT 

principall}  with  the  yellow-pine,  with  some  fsw  firs  and  cedars. 
In  the  course  of  our  day's  march,  we  crossed  a  number  of  small 
branches,  with  green,  grassy  bottoms.  About  one  o'clock, 
r.  M.,  we  descended  a  steep  dechvity,  and  struck  a  stream,  which 
I  at  first  conjectured  might  be  one  of  the  tributaiies  of  the 
Sacramento  ;  but  after  an  examination  of  its  current,  I  discovered 
that  it  ran  tlie  wrong  way,  and  was  compelled,  reluctantly,  to 
believe  that  we  had  not  yet  reached  the  summit  of  the  Sieira 
Nevada  ;  and  that  the  stream  was  a  tributary  of,  or  the  main 
Truckee  river. 

The  trail  runs  along  this  stream  a  short  distance,  and  then 
lea\ing  it  on  the  right  hand,  winds  under  a  range  of  high 
mountainous  elevations,  until  it  strikes  again  the  same  water- 
course, in  a  distance  of  a  few  miles. 

About  two  o'clock,  p.  m.,  we  suddenly  and  unexpectedly  came 
in  sight  of  a  small  lake,  some  four  or  five  miles  in  length,  and 
about  two  miles  in  breadth.  We  approached  this  lake  by 
ascending  a  small  stream  which  runs  through  a  flat  bot- 
tom. On  every  side,  except  this  outlet  from  it,  the  lake  is 
surrounded  by  mountains  of  great  elevation,  heavily  and  darkly 
timbered  with  pines,  firs,  and  cedars.  The  sheet  of  water  just 
noticed,  is  the  head  of  Truckee  river,  and  is  called  by  the  emi- 
grants who  first  discovered  and  named  it,  Truckee  Lake. 

[It  may  not  be  improper  for  me  in  this  place  to  give  the 
origin  of  this  name.  A  small  party  of  emigrants,  with  but 
little  knowledge  of  the  country,  and  the  difficulties  obstructing 
their  progress,  late  in  the  autumn  of  1844,  were  attempting  to 
force  their  way  through  these  mountains  to  California.  They 
were  lost,  and  nearly  discouraged.  The  snows  fell  in  the  moun- 
tains oefore  they  had  reached  the  Pass ;  and  death  by  starva- 
tion, frost,  and  fatigue,  was  staring  them  in  the  face.  At  the 
crisis  of  their  distress,  while  forcing  their  way  up  the  river,  an 
Indian  made  his  appearance,  and  in  a  most  friendly  manner 
volunteered  his  services  to  guide  a  portion  of  the  partj  over  the 
mountains.  His  appearance  and  eocentricities  of  manner  re- 
sembled so  much  those  of  a  man  by  the  name  of  True 
Icee,  who  happened  to  ha\e  been  an  acquaintance   of  one   o< 


238  LOO    CABIN. 

the  party,  that  they  jave  the  Indian  the  name  of  Tbuckkk  * 
and  called  the  river  and  lake,  along  which  he  conducted  them, 
after  this  name.  This  same  Indian  (Truckee)  was  the  principal 
of  the  two  who  encamped  with  us  twenty-five  miles  above  the 
"  Sink''  of  Mary's  river.  He  and  his  brother  afterwards  camt 
over  into  California  with  a  company  of  emigrants  ;  and  accom- 
panied the  California  battahon  on  its  march  from  Monterey  to 
the  Ciudad  de  los  Angelos.] 

The  Alps,  so  celebrated  in  history  and  by  all  travellers  and 
admirers  of  mountain  landscape,  cannot,  I  am  satisfied,  present 
scenery  more  wild,  more  rugged,  more  grand,  more  romantic, 
and  more  enchantingly  picturesque  and  beautiful,  than  that 
which  surrounds  this  lake,  of  which  the  lake  itself  composes  a 
part. 

Just  before  we  struck  the  shore  of  the  lake  at  its  lower  or 
eastern  end,  we  came  to  a  tolerably  well-constructed  log-house,* 
with  one  room,  which  evidentlj'  had  been  erected  and  occu- 
pied by  civilized  men.  The  floor  inside  of  this  house  was 
covered  with  feathers,  and  strewn  around  it  on  the  outside, 
were  pieces  of  ragged  cloth,  torn  newspapers,  and  manuscript 
letters,  the  writing  in  most  of  which  was  nearly  obhterated. 
The  title  of  one  of  the  newspapers,  was  that  of  .  religious  pub- 
lication in  Philadelphia.  It  had,  from  its  date,  been  printed 
several  years.  One  of  the  letters  which  I  picked  up  and  ex- 
amined, bore  the  frank  of  some  member  of  congress,  and  was 
addressed  to  "  Dr.  John  Townsend,  Bloomfield,  Ind."  Another 
letter  was  dated  at  Morrislown,  N.  J.,  but  by  whom  it  was 
written,  or  to  whom  addressed,  I  could  not  decipher.  The 
emigrant  party  which  erected  this  cabin  is  the  same  to  which 
I  have  alluded  above.  They  were  belated  in  the  mountains, 
and  suffered  almost  incredible  hardships,  before  they  reached 
the  settlemeii's  of  California. 

We  experienced  considerable  difficulty  in  making  our  way 
round  the  northeastern  side  of  the  lake,  the  steep  side  of  the 

*  This  ii  the  place  where  the  horrible  dieastera  to  the  eruigrants  of  I84(i 
took  place. 


KATTJRAL  FORTIFICATION — GllISLY  BEAR.  229 

moimtam  jeing  in  many  places  so  boggy  that  oui-  mules  suni 
to  their  bellies  in  the  mire.  We  reached  the  upper  end  of  the 
lake  at  four  o'clock,  and  encamped  on  the  left  of  the  trail,  in  a 
small  grabsy  opening  suiTOunded  by  tall  and  dense  timber. 
The  forest  in  the  narrow  but  fertile  bottom  of  the  lake,  and  on 
the  sides  of  the  mountains,  where  there  is  any  soil  for  its  suste- 
nance, is  dense,  and  the  trees  are  of  immense  size.  A  brilliantly 
green  and  highly  ornamental  moss  covers  the  hmbs  of  many  of 
the  trees.  The  rock  composing  the  moimtains  here,  is  chiefly 
granite. 

Just  beyond  us,  and  overlooking  the  gap  where  we  expect 
to-morrow  to  pass  the  crest  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  is  a  high 
mountain  with  a  natural  fortification  upon  its  extreme  summit, 
which  but  for  its  c5xlopean  magnitude,  the  wild  and  desolate 
country  m  which  it  is  situated,  and  its  unapproachable  height, 
the  observer  would  at  once  say  was  the  work  of  himian  hands, 
so  apparently  regular  and  perfect  is  the  construction  of  its  walls, 
turrets,  and  bastions. 

While  travelling  along  the  side  of  the  mountain  near  the 
shore  of  the  lake,  we  found  a  most  delicious  variety  of  the 
raspberry,  ripe  and  in  full  perfection.  Its  flavor  is,  I  think, 
fully  equal,  if  not  superior  to  any  raspbeny  I  have  before  tasted. 
Were  it  cultivated  in  our  gardens,  I  cannot  doubt  that  it  would 
supersede  the  varieties  which  the;y  produce,  and  which  we  so 
much  prize. 

After  we  encamped,  Jacob  and  McClary  ascended  one  of 
the  rocky  peaks  of  the  moimtain,  the  base  of  which  rested 
near  us.  When  they  returned,  which  they  did  not  untU  it  was 
nearly  dark,  they  informed  us  that  they  saw  on  the  moim- 
tain a  female  grisly  bear  with  cubs.  Brown  killed  a  fat  deer 
just  before  sunset,  on  the  densely-timbered  bottom  of  the  lake 
near  our  camp,  the  meat  of  which  in  our  nearly  destitute  condi- 
tion was  highly  acceptable.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  almost 
awful  profoundness  of  the  solitude  by  which  we  are  smuounded. 
Distance  24  mUes. 

August  26. — We  did  not  leave  our  encampment  until  the 
•im,  rising  abo\  e  the  lofty  moimtains  to  the  east,  dispensed  ita 

90 


230  BEAUTIFDL   SCENERY. 

warm  and  cheerful  rays  throug:  the  openings  of  the  magnifi- 
cent forest,  by  which  we  had  bt  en  sheltered  for  the  night.  It 
is  quite  impossible  to  convey  by  language  an  adequate  concep- 
tion of  the  symmetrical  beauty  and  stateliness  of  the  forest- 
trees  surrounding  the  lake,  and  covering  the  sides  of  the  adja- 
cent mountains.  A  skilful  artist  with  his  pencd  and  his  brushy 
alone,  can  do  justice  to  this  contrast  of  Alpme  and  Elysian 
scenery.  The  sublime  altitude  of  the  mountains,  their  granite 
and  barren  heads  piercing  the  sky  ;  the  imibrageous  foliage  of 
the  tall  pines  and  cedars,  deepening  in  verdure  and  density  as 
the  forest  appi-oaches  the  more  gentle  and  grassy  slopes  along 
the  banks  of  the  lake,  the  limpid  and  tranquU  surface  of  which 
daguerreotypes  distinctly  every  object,  from  the  moss-covered 
rocks  laved  by  its  waves  to  the  bald  and  inaccessible  simimits 
of  the  Sien-a — these  scenic  objects,  with  the  fresh  incense  of 
the  forest,  and  the  fragrant  odor  of  the  wild  rose,  constituted 
a  landscape  that,  from  associations,  melted  the  sensibilities, 
blunted  as  they  were  by  long  exposure  and  privation,  and 
brought  back  to  our  memories  the  endearments  of  home  and  the 
pleasures  of  civilization. 

The  trail  leaves  the  shore  of  the  lake  on  the  right  hand, 
ascending  over  some  rocky  hills,  and  after  crossing  some  diffi- 
cult ravines  and  swampy  ground  densely  timbered,  we  reached 
the  base  of  the  crest  of  the  Sierra  Nevada.  To  mount  this  was 
our  next  great  difficulty.  Standing  at  the  bottom  and  looking 
upwards  at  the  perpendicular,  and  in  some  places,  impending 
granite  cliffs,  the  observer,  without  any  further  knowledge  on 
the  subject,  would  doubt  if  man  or  beast  liad  ever  made  good  a 
passage  over  them.  But  we  knew  that  man  and  horse,  oxer, 
and  wagon,  women  and  childien,  had  crossed  this  formidable 
and  apparently  impassable  barrier  erected  by  Nature  between 
tlie  desert  and  the  fertile  districts  on  the  coast  of  the  Pacific. 
What  their  energy  had  accoraplisho'l, impelled  though  it  had  been 
by  an  invincible  desperation,  we  knc  Vf  could  be  achieved  by  us. 

In  good  heart,  thei-efore,  we  commenced  the  steep  ascent, 
leaping  our  animals  from  crag  to  crag,  and  climbing  in  places 
nearly  perpend icuhir  precipices  of  smooth  granite  rocks.     Onf 


PASS  OF  THE  SIERRA  NEVADA.  231 

of  our  mules  in  this  ascent,  heavily  packed,  fell  backwards  twice, 
and  rolled  downwards,  until  her  descent  was  interrupted  by  a 
projecting  rock.  We  thought,  each  time,  that  her  career  of 
duty  and  usefulness  had  terminated  ;  and  that  her  bones  would 
bleach  among  the  barren  rocks  of  the  mountain.  But  she 
Revived  from  the  stunning  and  bruising  effects  of  her  backward 
somersets  ;  and  with  great  exertions  on  our  own  part  in  assist- 
ing her,  she  reached  with  us  the  simimit  of  the  Pass. 

The  view  from  the  crest  of  "the  Sierra  to  the  east,  is  inexpres- 
sibly comprehensive,  grand,  and  picturesque.  After  congratu- 
lating ourselves  upon  the  safe  achievement  of  our  morning  feat, 
and  breathing  our  mules  a  few  minutes,  we  proceeded  on  our 
journey.  A  mile  brought  us  to  a  small  dimple  on  the  top  of 
the  mountain,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a  miniature  lake,  sur- 
roimded  by  green  grass. 

It  was  some  time  before  we  could  determine  our  course  down 
the  Sierra  on  the  western  side.  The  emigrant  wagon-trail  was 
here  entirely  effaced.  Around  the  small  lake  we  saw  the  traces  of 
encampments  ;  but  beyond  it,  in  no  direction,  could  we  discover 
any  signs  that  man  had  ever  passed.  Accompanied  by  Col. 
Russell,  I  rode  several  miles  down  the  left  side  of  the  ra\Tne. 
We  experienced  great  difficulty  in  making  our  way  through  the 
rocks,  and  over  fallen  timber.  After  an  hour  or  more  spent  in 
this  exploration,  we  returned  to  the  lake,  and  found  th;i 
our  party  had  all  left  it.  We  could  hear  faintly,  however,  at 
:i  long  distance,  an  occasional  whoop,  which  was  echoed  by  the 
caverns  and  the  rocks  of  the  moimtain.  Searching  about,  we 
ascertained,  by  the  fi-esh  traU  of  our  party,  that  they  had  left 
the  lake  on  the  right  hand,  over  a  small  rocky  elevation ;  on 
the  other  side  of  which,  we  could  discover  the  indentations  of 
wagon-wheels  made  last  year.  Following  the  fresh  trail,  which 
it  was  difficult  to  do,  over  the  rocky  suiface  of  the  ground, 
and  the  sound  of  the  whoops  of  our  party,  we  came  up  to  them 
after  an  hour's  hard  and  difficult  riding. 

Descending  the  rocky  ravine  a  few  miles,  we  emerged  from 
it  and  entered  a  beautiful  level  valley,  some  four  or  five  miles  in 
length  from  east  to  west,  and  about  two  miles  in  breadth.     A 


232  USER    VALLEY SPRING    IN    AUGUST. 

narrow,  sluggish  stream  runs  through  this  valley,  the  waters  of 
which  are  of  considerable  depth,  and  the  banks  steep  and  miry 
A  luxuriant  growth  of  grasses,  of  an  excellent  quaUty,  covered  the 
entire  valley  with  the  richest  verdure.  Flowers  were  in  bloom ; 
and  although  late  in  August,  the  vegetation  presented  all  the 
tenderness  and  freshness  of  May.  This  valley  has  been  named^ 
by  the  emigrants  "  Uber  Valley  ;"  and  the  stream  which  runs 
through  it,  and  is  a  tributary  of  the  Rio  de  los  Plumas,  or 
Feather  river,  has  the  same  name.  It  is  sometimes  pronounced 
Juha ;  but  I  think  Uber  is  the  correct  etymology.  How  the 
name  was  derived,  I  never  could  learn. 

We  foimd,  after  some  search,  a  place  where  we  could  ford 
the  stream  without  stalling  our  animals  in  its  soft  and  spongy 
banks  and  bed.  But  it  was  some  time  before  we  could  discovei 
at  what  point  the  wagon-traU  left  the  valley. 

Leaving  the  valley  we  crossed  a  high  undxilating  coimtry, 
timbered  with  pines,  firs,  and  cedars,  whose  symmetrical  pro- 
portions and  rich  foliage,  with  the  bright  green  moss  clothing 
their  branches,  would  baffle  the  skill  and  coloring  of  the  most 
artistical  painter,  to  represent  them  faithfully  on  canvass.  This 
country  is  watered  by  a  connected  chain  of  seven  small  lakes, 
between  which,  and  surrounded  by  the  beautiful  and  fairy-like 
groves  I  have  mentioned,  there  are  several  green  grassy  lawns 
and  openings,  which  lend  to  the  scenery  a  charm  and  a  fascina- 
tion more  like  that  which  the  imagination  ascribes  to  the  eflfect 
of  enchantment,  or  the  creations  of  a  beautiful  dream,  than  the  pre- 
.sentations  of  reality.  The  soil  of  this  rolling  country  is  rich  and 
liighly  fertile,  where  there  is  any  moisture  to  sustain  vegetation. 

Our  course  continued  nearly  south,  until  we  reached  and 
entered  anotlier  deep  ra^^ne  or  gorge,  down  which  runs  a  small 
stieam  of  water,  in  a  direction  nearly  west.  After  proceeding 
down  tliis  ravine  a  few  miles,  the  elevated  mountain  walls  on 
both  sides  of  the  streav.i,  at  the  foot  of  which  immense  granite 
rocks  raise  their  impassable  forms,  approach  each  other  so 
nearly  as  to  form  a  caflon,  to  avoid  which  the  trail  winds  up 
and  down  the  side  of  the  mountain,  over  and  under  steep 
Drecipices  and  impending  cliffs. 


TROUBLESOME  ENEMIES. 

Our  progress  during  the  entire  day,  owing  to  the  obstructions 
in  our  rouie,  has  been  slow.  A  little  before  five  o'clock,  p.  m., 
after  having  labored  up  to  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  we 
commenced  its  descent  again.  I  left  our  party  here,  riding  on 
as  rapidly  as  I  could,  or  rather  plunging  down  the  steep  side  of 
the  moimtain,  'm  order  to  find  and  select  an  encampment  for  the 
night.  About  a  mile,  after  I  had  reached  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tain, I  found  a  small  opening  in  the  timber,  with  an  easy  access 
to  the  stream,  but  deficient  in  grass,  and  here,  there  being  no 
better  spot  in  view,  1  concluded  to  encamp  for  the  night. 

I  had  not  remained  long  m  this  place  before  two  or  three  of 
the  pack-mules  came  rushing  towards  me,  with  their  packs 
much  disarranged,  snorting  with  excitement,  and  smoking  with 
perspiration.  Others  soon  came  following  after  them.  In  the 
same  condition.  Not  being  able  to  account  for  this  singular 
excitement  of  the  mules,  after  waiting  a  few  moments,  I  started 
back  to  meet  the  party,  and  ascertain  what  had  occui'red  since 
I  left  them  to  produce  so  much  irregularity  in  our  usual  order 
of  march.  I  met  one  of  them  near  the  foot  of  the  mountain. 
In  response  to  my  inquiries,  he  said  that  in  descending  the 
mountain  they  had  been  attacked  by  a  numerous  swarm  of 
yellow  hornets,  which,  stinging  the  mules,  they  became  frantic 
with  pain  and  imcontrollable ;  and  rushing  down  the  momitain 
and  through  timber  and  brush,  in  order  to  force  their  venomous 
assailants  to  leave  them,  some  of  their  riders  had  been  thrown, 
and  the  baggage  had  been  so  much  scattered  that  considerable 
time  had  been  required  to  recover  it.  The  party,  with  most  of 
the  baggage,  soon  came  up,  and  we  moved  on  to  our  camp. 
Some  of  them  had  their  clothes  much  torn,  by  the  mules,  on 
which  they  were  mounted,  rusliing  into  the  thick  brush. 

After  we  had  encamped  I  crossed  the  stream,  which  has  a 
very  rocky  bed,  to  ascertain  if  there  was  any  convenient  spot 
where  the  grazing  would  be  better  for  our  mules.  I  found; 
about  a  mile  distant,  two  openings  in  the  timber  of  the  bottom, 
in  which  the  grass  was  green  and  rank.  Returning  to  camp 
and  assisted  by  McClary,  (no  other  member  of  the  party  volun 
Veering,)  we  drove  the  mules  across  the  stream,  and  after  picket 

20'^ 


834  HUMAN  REMAINS. 

ing  them  ji  the  tall  grass,  and  kindling  a  good  fire  from  some 
dead  logs  of  fallen  timber,  for  their  protection,  we  bivouacked 
among  them  in  the  opening  for  the  night.  The  timber  sur- 
rounding  the  circular  space  which  we  occupied  is  very  tall. 
The  bright  blaze  of  our  fire  defined  indistinctly  the  columnar 
shapes  of  the  pines,  and  their  overarching  branches.  Fancy 
soon  pictured  our  residence  for  the  night  a  spacious  gothic 
temple,  whose  walls  had  mouldered  away,  lea-\dng  the  pillars 
and  the  skeleton  roof,  through  which  the  bright  stars  were 
twinkling,  standing,  in  defiance  of  the  assaults  of  time  and  the 
fury  of  the  elements.  The  temperature  of  the  evening  is  de- 
lightful, and  the  sky  serene  and  cloudless. 

One  of  our  party  this  moniing  picked  up  a  human  skull  near 
the  trail.  Some  xmfortunate  emigrant,  probably,  had  been  in- 
terred near  the  spot,  and,  being  exhumed  by  the  Indians  or 
wolves,  tliis  was  a  portion  of  his  skeleton.  I  saw  large  numbers 
of  pheasants  during  our  march  to-day,  and  shot  one  with  my 
pistol  wliile  riding  along.  Raspberries,  and  a  small,  bitter 
cherry,  have  been  quite  abundant  in  places.    Distance  25  mUes. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Bear  Valley — Provisions  exhausted — California  quail — Manzanita — The 
pine-nut — Deep  hollow — Evergreen  oak — First  view  of  the  Sacramento 
Valley — A  body  of  California  Indians — Live-oak  acorns — Arrive  at  John- 
son's — Indian  dandy — Cheering  and  astonishing  news  from  Mexico — 
Obtain  food — A  Califoniian  newspaper. 

August  27. — A  slight  frost  was  perceptible  on  the  grass  this 
morning.  We  dtjscended  the  stream,  on  wliich  we  were  en- 
camped, several  miles,  keeping  generally  in  sight  of  it,  and 
passing  around  sevcril  canoncs  by  climbing,  with  much  difficulty, 
the  steep  sides  of  the  niouritains.  We  leaclied  at  last  a  canon 
of  several  miles  in  length,  aiound  which  it  was  impossible  to 


BEAR  VALLEY-  -NOTHING  TO  EAT.  235 

pass  without  ascending  to  tlie  summit  of  the  steep  and  rocky 
ridge.  Passing  from  this  ridge,  in  a  southwest  coiirse,  we 
crossed  a  valley  in  which  there  is  a  small  lake.  From  this  lake 
we  returned  back  to  the  ridge  again,  along  which  we  travelled 
over  a  very  rocky  and  difficult  road,  through  tall  and  dense 
timber,  imtil  thi-ee  o'clock,  p.  m.,  when  we  reached  a  narrow 
place,  so  steep  on  both  sides  and  so  sharp  on  the  top  that  our 
mules  could  with  difficulty  stand  upon  it. 

The  emigrant  wagons  of  last  year  were  let  down  this  preci- 
pice, on  the  northern  side,  with  ropes.  With  considerable 
difficulty  we  got  our  mules  down  it.  A  descent  of  two  miles 
brought  us  into  a  handsome,  fertile  valley,  five  or  six  miles  in 
length,  and  varying  from  one  to  two  in  breadth.  This  is  called 
"  Bear  Valley."  Vegetation  is  very  luxuriant  and  fresh.  In  ad- 
dition to  the  usual  variety  of  grasses  and  some  flowers,  I  noticed 
large  patches  of  wild  peas.  We  found  a  small  stream  winding 
through  it,  bordered  by  clumps  of  willows.  We  encamped  near 
this  rivulet  of  the  lonely  mountain-vale,  vmder  some  tall  pines. 

Here  was  cooked  the  last  of  our  flour.  A  pint  of  rice,  a  skin 
or  scrap  of  rancid  bacon,  weighing  a  half-pound,  and  some  cof- 
fee, (our  sugar  ha\ing  been  exhausted  for  two  weeks,)  compose 
our  stock  of  provisions  for  the  residue  of  our  journey.  The  truly 
impoverished  condition  of  our  larder  produced  a  slight  sensation 
of  uneasiness  and  regret.  But  a  hope  that  we  were  not  far  from 
the  settlements  ;  a  huge,  blazing  fire,  made  of  the  dry  pine  logs, 
flashing  its  cheerful  fight  over  om*  camp  ;  the  peaceful  and  holy 
serenity  of  the  scenery,  illuminated  by  the  rays  of  the  waxing 
moon  shining  with  brilliant  splendor  from  the  vaporless  blue 
arch  of  the  heavens,  soon  dispelled  all  unpleasant  forebodings 
in  regard  to  the  future. 

We  flushed,  in  the  course  of  the  day's  march,  several  flocks 
of  the  California  quail  or  partridge.  It  is  nut  so  large  as  the 
quail  of  the  Atlantic.  Its  plumage  is  dai-k  and  glossy,  and  it 
has  a  small  tuft  or  crown  of  feathers  on  its  head.  It  is  a  most 
graceful  and  beautiful  bird.  There  has  been  but  little  variation 
in  the  growth  of  timber.  A  few  oaks  have  exhibited  them- 
selves among  the  pines,  firs,,  and  cedars.     We  have  met  occa- 


236  MANZANITA — STBBP  HOLLOW. 

sionaliy  with  a  reddish  berry  called  by  the  Califomians,  Titamo' 
nita,  (little  apple.)  The  berry  is  produced  by  small  trees  which 
stand  in  clumps,  about  ten  or  twelve  feet  in  height,  shedding 
their  bark  annually,  leaving  a  smooth  red  surface.  The  flavor 
of  the  fruit  is  an  agreeable  acid,  something  Hke  that  of  our  ap- 
ple. The  burrs  of  the  pine,  which  have  fallen  to  the  ground, 
are  sometimes  twelve  inches  in  length,  and  contain  a  nut,  [pinon,) 
which,  although  it  is  said  to  be  nutritious,  is  not  agreeable  to  the 
taste.  A  shrub,  which  growing  in  our  gardens  is  called  the  wax- 
berry,  I  saw  in  several  places  to-day.  The  signs  of  the  grisly  bear 
and  of  the  deer  have  been  numerous  since  we  crossed  the  Pass 
of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  but  not  one  of  these  animals  has  been 
seen  on  this  side.     Distance  24  miles. 

August  28. — A  cup  of  cofiee  without  sugar  constituted  our 
breakfast.  Our  march  to-day  has  been  one  of  great  fatigue, 
and  almost  wholly  without  incident  or  interest.  During  the 
forenoon  we  were  constantly  engaged  in  rising  and  descending 
the  sides  of  the  high  mountain  ranges,  on  either  hand  of  the 
stream,  to  avoid  the  canones,  deep  chasms  and  ravines,  and  immense 
ledges  of  granite  rocks,  with  which  the  narrow  valley  is  choked. 
In  the  afternoon  we  travelled  along  a  high  ridge,  sometimes 
over  elevated  peaks,  with  deep  and  fiightful  abysses  yawning 
their  darkened  and  hideous  depths  beneath  us.  About  five 
o'clock,  I'.  M.,  by  a  descent  so  steep  for  a  mile  and  a  half,  that 
ourselves  and  our  animals  slid  rather  than  walked  down  it,  we 
entered  a  small  hollow  or  ravine,  which  we  named  "  Steep 
Hollow."  A  gurgling  brook  of  pure  cold  water  runs  through 
it  over  a  rocky  bed.  In  the  hollow  there  was  about  a  quarter 
of  an  acre  of  pietty  good  grass,  and  our  mules  soon  fed  this 
down  to  its  roots,  without  leaving  a  blade  standing. 

Having  noiliing  else  to  do,  we  made  large  fires  of  the  dead 
oak  timber  that  had  been  cut  down  by  the  emigrants  of  pre- 
vious years,  for  tlie  purpose  of  subsisting  their  animals  upon  its 
foliage.     A  cup  of  cofl"(;e  witliout  sugar,  was  our  supper. 

The  oak  timber  has  been  more  plentiful  to-day  than  yester- 
day. TIh'  pines,  firs,  and  cedars  maintain  their  majestic  dimen- 
sions.    Our  animals  are  mucli  e.\tiausled.     The  road  has  been 


DISAGREEABLE  BREAKFAST.  237 

exceedingly  difficult,  and  consequently  our  progress  has  been 
slow.     Distance  20  miles. 

August  29. — The  morning  was  clear  and  severely  cold.  The 
keen  atmosphere,  as  soon  as  I  threw. off  my  blankets,  just  be- 
fore daylight,  produced  an  aguish  sensation  that  I  have  not 
previously  felt  on  the  journey.  The  depth  and  consequent 
dampness  of  our  encampment,  probably,  was  one  cause  of  this 
affection.  Our  physical  exhaustion  from  incessant  labor,  and 
the  want  of  adequate  nourishment,  was  another. 

Nuttall,  a  young  gentleman  of  our  mess,  of  fine  intelligence 
and  many  interesting  and  amiable  qualities  of  mind  and  heart, 
feeling,  as  we  all  did,  the  faintness,  if  not  the  pangs  of  hunger, 
insisted  that  if  we  would  delay  the  commencement  of  our  day's 
mai-ch  a  sliort  time,  he  would  prepare  a  soup  from  the  rancid 
bacon-skins  remaining  in  our  piovision-sack.  In  compliance 
with  his  request,  the  camp-kettle  was  placed  on  the  fire,  and 
the  scraps  placed  in  it,  and  in  about  fifteen  minutes  the  soup 
was  declared  to  be  made.  We  gathered  around  it,  with  high 
expectations  of  a  repast,  under  the  circumstances,  of  gieat  rich- 
ness, and  a  high,  if  not  a  delicate  flavor.  But  a  single  spoon- 
ful to  each  seemed  to  satisfy  the  desires  of  the  whole  party  for 
this  kind  of  food,  if  it  did  not  their  appetites.  It  produced  a 
nausea  that  neither  hunger  nor  philosophy  could  curb  or  resist. 

We  rose  from  the  deep  hollow  of  our  encampment  by  a  very 
steep  ascent,  and  mounting  the  high  ridges  once  more,  con- 
tinued along  them  nearly  the  whole  day,  in  a  general  south- 
west course.  The  mountains  have  not  been  so  rugged  or  so  ele- 
vated to-day,  but  have  approximated  nearer  the  dimensions  and 
features  of  hills,  and  we  have  found  less  difficulty  in  our  pro- 
gress over  them.  This  change  in  the  physical  formation  of  the 
surface  of  the  country,  cheered  us  with  the  hope  that  we  should 
obtain  a  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento  before  night. 
But  as  we  ascended  elevation  after  elevation,  with  anticipations 
of  a  prospect  so  gratifying,  our  hopes  were  as  often  disappointed 
by  a  succession  of  hills  or  mountains  lising  one  after  another 
beyond  us. 

We  crossed,  near  the  close  of  our  day's  march,  one  or  two 


238  PINB  NUT EXHAUSTED  MULB. 

small  valleys  or  bottoms  cimbered  with  evergreen  oaks,  {Quer 
cus  Hex,)  giving  them  the  appearance  of  old  apple-orchards. 
The  shape  and  foliage  of  this  oak,  previous  to  minute  examina- 
tion, presents  an  exact  resemblance  of  the  apple-tree.  The 
channels  of  the  ■water-courses  running  through  these  valleys 
were  dry,  and  the  grass  parched  and  dead.  A  plant  having  a 
yellow  flower,  dispensing  a  strong  and  agreeable  aromatic  odor, 
perfumed  the  atmosphere  in  many  places.  Some  berries,  but 
not  very  abundant  or  pleasant  to  the  taste,  were  observed.  We 
saw  in  a  number  of  places,  ladders  erected  by  the  Indians,  for 
climbing  the  pine-trees  to  gather  the  nuts,  and  the  poles  used 
for  the  same  purpose.  An  Indian  was  seen,  but  he  ran  from 
us  with  great  speed,  disappearing  behind  the  forest-trees. 
Some  hares  and  a  fox  were  started,  and  a  hare  was  killed  by 
one  of  the  party. 

One  of  our  pack-mules  became  so  exhausted  this  afternoon, 
that  she  refused  to  proceed.  After  stripping  and  vainly  trying 
various  expedients  to  urge  her  along,  I  haltered  her  with  a 
tight  noose  around  the  nose,  and  fastening  the  end  of  the  rope 
to  the  horn  of  my  saddle,  dragged  her  into  camp.  She  had 
performed  such  faitliful  service,  tliat  1  could  not  leave  her  to 
perish  of  hunger  and  thirst,  or  to  be  devoured  by  the  wolves  of 
the  wilderness.  The  feet  of  all  our  mules  are  very  tender,  and 
they  move  with  much  apparent  pain.  We  encamped  at  five 
o'clock  in  a  ravine,  half  a  mile  to  the  left  of  the  trail,  where  we 
found  some  small  pools  of  water  and  a  little  dead  grass  in  their 
vicinity.  A  soup  of  the  hare  killed  on  our  march  to-day,  con- 
stituted our  supper  and  only  meal  for  two  days.  Distance  25 
miles. 

August  30. — The  temperature  this  morning  was  pleasant, 
and  the  atmosphcie  perfectly  clear  and  calm.  We  commenced 
our  march  early,  determined,  if  possible,  to  force  our  way  out 
of  the  mountains  and  to  reach  Johnson's,  the  nearest  settle- 
ment in  the  A-alley  of  Sacramento,  about  40  miles,  above  or  north 
of  Sutter's  Fort,  before  we  encamped. 

After  travelling  some  three  or  four  miles  rising  and  descend- 
ing a  numoer  of  hills,  from  the  summit  of  one  more  elevated 


FIRST  VIEW   OF  SACRAMENTO  VALLEY.  239 

than  the  others  surrounding  it,  the  spacious  valley  of  the  Sacra 
mento  suddenly  burst  upon  my  view,  at  an  apparent  distance 
of  fifteen  miles.  A  broad  line  of  timber  running  through  the 
centre  of  the  valley  indicated  the  course  of  the  main  river,  and 
smaller  and  fainter  lines  on  either  side  of  this,  winding  through 
the  brown  and  flat  plain,  marked  the  channels  of  its  tributaries. 
1  contemplated  this  most  welcome  scene  with  such  emotions  of 
pleasure  as  may  be  imagined  by  those  who  have  ever  crossed 
the  desert  plains  and  mountains  of  western  America,  until  Jacob, 
who  was  in  advance  of  the  remainder  of  the  party,  came  within 
the  reach  of  my  voice.  I  shouted  to  him  that  we  were  "out 
of  the  woods" — to  pull  ofi"  his  hat  and  give  three  cheers,  so 
loud  that  those  in  the  rear  could  hear  them.  Very  soon  the 
huzzas  of  those  behind  were  ringing  and  eclioing  through  the 
hills,  valleys,  and  forests,  and  the  whole  party  came  up  with 
an  exuberance  of  joy  in  their  motions  and  depicted  upon  their 
countenances.  It  was  a  moment  of  cordial  and  heartfelt  con- 
gratulations. 

Taking  a  direct  course  west,  in  order  to  reach  the  valley  at 
the  nearest  point,  we  soon  struck  a  small  horse-trail,  which  we 
followed  over  low  gravelly  hills  with  grassy  hollows  between, 
timbered  with  the  evergreen  oak,  forming  in  many  places  a 
most  invitmg  landscape.  About  one  o'clock  we  discovered 
at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile,  a  number  of  men,  apparently 
twenty  or  thirty.  Some  of  them  were  dressed  in  white  shirts 
and  pantaloons,  with  the  Mexican  sombrero,  or  broad-brim  hat, 
others  were  nearly  naked  and  resembled  the  Indians  we  had 
frequently  seen  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Sierra.  They  had 
evidently  discovered  us  before  we  saw  them,  for  they  seemed 
to  be  in  great  commotion,  shouting  and  running  in  various 
dhections.  Some  of  our  party  suggested  that  they  might  be  a 
body  of  Mexican  soldiers  stationed  hei-e  for  the  purpose  of  op- 
posuig  the  entrance  of  tlie  emigrants  into  California,  a  conjec- 
lui-e  that  seemed  i-easonable,  under  the  probable  existuig  relations 
between  Mexico  and  the  United  States.  However,  upon  a 
careful  examination  I  coula  not  discover  that  they  had  any  armsj 
and  fell  pretty  well  assured  from  then-  movements,  that  they 


240  INDIANS EL  CAPITAN ACORNS. 

were  not  an  organized  body  of  soldiers.  But  halting  until  tiie 
whole  party  came  up,  I  requested  them  to  see  tliat  all  their 
pieces  were  charged  and  capped,  which  being  done,  we  moved 
forward  to  the  point  (a  small  grove  of  oaks  on  a  gentle  eleva- 
tion) where  the  most  numerous  body  of  the  strange  men  were 
concentrated.  We  rode  up  to  them,  at  the  same  time  holding 
out  oiu-  hands  in  token  of  friendship,  a  signal  which  they  re 
ciprocated  immediately. 

They  were  evidently  very  much  rejoiced  to  find  that  we  had 
no  hostile  designs  upon  them.  With  the  exception  of  tAvo  half- 
breed  Spaniards,  they  were  Indians,  and  several  of  them  con- 
versed in  Spanish,  and  were  or  had  been  the  servants  of  settlers 
in  the  valley.  One  of  the  half-breeds,  of  a  pleasing  and  intelli- 
gant  comitenance  and  good  address,  introduced  us  to  their 
chief,  (El  Capitan,)  and  wished  to  know  if  we  had  not  some 
tobacco  to  give  him.  I  had  a  small  quantity  of  tobacco,  about 
half  of  which  I  gave  to  the  chief,  and  distributed  the  residue 
among  the  party  as  far  as  it  would  go.  I  saw,  however,  that 
the  chief  divided  liis  portion  among  those  who  received  none. 
El  Capitan  was  a  man  of  about  forty-five,  of  large  frame  and 
great  apparent  muscular  power,  but  his  countenance  was  heavy, 
dull,  and  melancholy,  manifesting  neither  good  humor  nor  in- 
telligence. His  long,  coarse,  and  matted  hair  fell  down  upon 
his  slioulders  m  a  most  neglected  condition.  A  faded  cotton 
handkerchief  was  tied  around  his  head.  I  could  see  none  of  the 
ornaments  of  royalty  upon  him,  but  his  clothing  was  much  in- 
ferior to  that  of  many  of  his  party,  who  I  presimie  had  obtained 
theirs  by  laboring  for  the  white  settlers.  Many  of  them  were 
in  a  state  of  nudity. 

We  soon  learned  from  them  that  they  were  a  party  engaged 
in  gathcnng  acorns,  which  to  these  poor  Indians  are  what 
wheat  and  maize  are  to  us.  They  showed  us  large  quantities  in 
their  baskets  under  the  trees.  When  dried  and  pulverized,  the 
flour  of  the  acorn  is  made  into  bread  or  mush,  and  is  then- 
"  staft"  of  life."  It  is  their  chief  article  of  subsistence  in  this 
section  of  California.  Tlieir  luxuries,  such  as  bull-beef  smd 
horsc-mcat,  they  t  btain  by   theft,  (»r  pay  for  in  labor  at  exor- 


Johnson's  settlement,  241 

bitant  rates.  The  aconi  of  California,  from  the  evergreen  oak, 
(Quercus  Ilex,)  is  much  larger,  more  oil}-,  and  less  bitter  than  on 
the  Atlantic  side  of  the  continent.  In  fruitful  seasons  the 
ground  beneath  the  trees  is  covered  with  the  nuts,  and  the  In- 
dians have  the  pi'ovidence,  when  the  produce  of  the  oak  is  thus 
plentiful,  to  provide  against  a  short  crop  and  the  famine  which 
must  necessarily  residt  to  them  from  it,  by  laying  up  a  supply 
greater  than  they  will  consume  in  one  year. 

We  inquired  the  distance  to  the  residence  of  Mr.  Johnson. 
They  made  signs  indicating  that  it  was  but  a  short  distance. 
After  some  little  delay  we  prevailed  upon  one  of  them  who  was 
naked,  by  promising  him  a  reward,  to  accompany  us  as  oiu' 
guide.  He  conducted  us  safely,  in  about  an  hour  and  a  half, 
to  the  house  of  Mr.  Johnson,  situated  on  Bear  creek,  a  tributary 
of  the  Rio  de  los  Plumas,  near  the  edge  of  the  valley  of  the 
Sacramento.     The  house  of  Mr.  Johnson  is  a  small  building  of 

o 

two  rooms,  one- half  constructed  of  logs,  the  other  of  adobes  or 
sim-dried  bricks.  Several  pens  made  of  poles  and  pickets  sur- 
round the  house.  A  buildmg  of  any  kind,  inhabited  by  civilized 
beings,  was  almost  a  curiosity  to  us.  Some  of  our  party,  when 
about  a  mile  distant,  fancied  from  something  white  which  they 
saw  in  the  door,  resembling  at  a  distance  the  shape  of  a  woman 
clad  in  light  garments,  that  it  was  Mrs.  Johnson,  who  would  be 
there  to  welcome  them  with  all  the  hospitaUty  of  an  American 
lady.  Great  was  their  disappointment,  however,  when  they 
came  in  front  of  the  door,  to  find  it  closed.  A  light  frame  with 
a  raw-hide  nailed  upon  it,  was  the  construction  of  the  door. 
The  central  portion  of  the  raw-hide  was  white,  the  natural  color 
of  the  animal  from  which  it  had  been  taken,  and  into  this  melted 
the  graceful  figure,  and  the  welcome  coimtenance  of  the  white 
woman  in  white.  Mr.  Johnson  was  not  at  home,  and  the  house 
was  shut  up.  This  we  learned  from  a  little  Indian,  the  only 
human  object  we  could  find  about  the  premises ;  he  intimated 
by  signs,  however,  that  Mr.  Johnson  would  return  when  the 
Sim  set. 

We  encamped  under  some  trees  in  front  of  the  house,  re- 
solved to  do  as  well  as  we  could,  in  our  half-famiahed  cond^' 

21 


242  WHEAT MILK GREAT  NEWS. 

tion,  until  Mr.  J.  returned.  In  looking  around  the  place,  w« 
saw  where  a  quantity  of  wheat  had  been  threshed,  consequently 
there  should  be  flour'  in  the  house.  In  one  of  the  pens  there 
were  several  young  calves,  showing  conclusively  that  theie 
must  be  milk.  There  was  a  small  attempt  at  gardening,  but 
no  vegetables  visible.  We  tried  to  prevail  upon  the  Indian  to 
brinof  us  some  flour,  but  the  little  heathen  shook  his  head, 
either  not  understanding  us  or  signifying  that  he  could  not  get 
at  it.  We  then  made  him  comprehend  that  we  wanted  milk, 
and  after  showing  him  a  bright -colored  cotton  handkerchief,  he 
demanded  our  bucket  and  started  with  it  after  the  cows.  They 
were  brought  to  the  pen  where  the  calves  were  confined,  and 
one  of  them  being  fastened  by  the  horns  with  a  raw-hide  rope, 
the  calf  was  admitted  to  her  to  keep  her  gentle  during  the  pro- 
cess of  milking.  Our  bucket  was  nearly  filled  with  rich  milk, 
and  this,  with  a  cup  of  cofi'ee,  took  off  the  edge  of  our  hunger. 

In  the  mean  time  we  performed  our  ablutions  in  the  creek, 
and  having  shed  our  mueh-worn  clothing,  we  presented  most  of 
it  to  the  naked  Indian  who  acted  as  our  guide.  He  was  soon 
clad  in  a  complete  suit  from  head  to  feet,  and  strutted  about 
with  a  most  dandified  and  self-satisfied  air.  A  small  pocket 
looking-glass  completed  his  happiness.  He  left  us  with  a  bun- 
dle of  rags  mider  his  arms,  nearly  overjoyed  at  his  good  luck. 

At  sunset  the  dogs  about  the  house  began  to  bark  most  vo- 
ciferousl}',  and 'ran  ofi"  over  a  gentle  lise  of  ground  to  the  north. 
Two  men  on  horseback  soon  made  their  appearance  on  the  rising 
ground,  and,  seeing  us,  rode  to  our  camp.  They  were  two 
Franco-Americans,  originally  from  Canada  or  St.  Louis,  who  had 
wandered  to  California  in  some  trapping  expedition,  and  had 
remained  in  the  country.  Tliey  were  arranging  to  build  houses 
and  settle  permanently  in  this  neighborhood.  From  them  we 
learned  the  giatifying  intelligence,  that  the  whole  of  Upper 
California  was  in  possession  of  (he  United  States.  Intelligence, 
they  further  stated,  had  been  received,  tiiat  General  Taylor, 
after  having  met  and  defeated  the  Mexican  forces  in  four  pitched 
battles,  killing  an  incredible  number,  some  forty  or  fifty  thou- 
Bund,  had  triumphantly  marched  into  the  city  of  Mexico.     The 


VSE  OF  TAL-OW YANKEE  RANCHERO.  243 

ast  part  of  this  news,  of  course,  judging  from  the  situation  of 
General  Taylor  when  we  left  the  United  States,  (war  not  having 
then  been  declared,)  was  impossible ;  but  sifting  the  news  and 
comparing  One  statement  with  another,  the  result  to  our  minds 
was,  that  General  T.  had  been  eminently  successful,  defeating 
the  Mexicans,  whenever  he  had  met  them,  with  considerable 
slaughter.  This,  of  course,  produced  much  exultation  and  en- 
thusiasm among  us. 

We  informed  the  two  gentlemen,  that  we  were  and  had  been 
for  some  time  entirely  destitute  of  provisions,  and  were  in  a  state 
bordering  upon  starvation.  One  of  them  immediately  started 
off  at  a  gallop  to  his  cabin  not  far  distant,  and  soon  returned 
with  a  pan  of  unbolted  flour  and  some  tallow  to  cook  it 
with.  This,  he  said,  was  all  he  had,  and  if  such  had  not  been 
the  case,  he  would  have  brought  us  something  more.  But  we 
could  not  comprehend  the  use  of  tallow  in  cooking.  We,  how- 
ever, afterwards  learned  that  beef-tallow  in  California  is  used 
for  culinary  purposes  in  the  same  manner  that  hog's-lard  is 
with  us ;  and,  on  the  whole,  the  prejudice  against  it  being  done 
away  with  by  habit,  I  do  not  know  that  the  former  is  not  pref- 
erable to  the  latter — so  much  does  habit  and  prejudice  enter 
mto  the  account  and  make  up  the  sum  of  our  likes  and  dishkes. 
We  felt  very  grateful  to  this  gentleman  for  his  opportune  pres- 
ent, for  he  would  receive  no  compensation  for  it ;  and  the  fires 
were  immediately  blazing  to  render  his  generous  donation  of 
practical  benefit. 

Mr.  Johnson  returned  home  about  nine  o'clock.  He  was 
originally  a  New  England  sailor,  and  cast  upon  this  remote 
coast  by  some  of  the  vicissitudes  common  to  those  of  his  calling 
had  finall)^  turned  farmer  or  ranchero.  He  is  a  bachelor,  with 
Indian  servants,  and  stated  that  he  had  no  food  piepared  for 
us,  but  such  as  was  in  the  house  was  at  our  service.  A  pile  of 
small  cheeses^  and  numerous  pans  of  milk  with  thick  cream 
upon  them,  were  exhibited  on  the  table,  and  they  disappeared 
with  a  rapidity  dangerous  to  the  health  of  those  who  consumed 
them. 

Mr.  J.  gave  us  the  first  number  of  the  first  newspaper  ever 


844  CALIFORNIA  NEWSPAPER ANNEXATION. 

published  in  California,  entitled  "  The  Californian,"  and  pab- 
fished  and  edited  at  Monterey  by  Dr.  Robert  Semple,  a  native 
Kentuckian.  It  was  dated  about  two  weeks  back.  From  the 
columns  of  this  small  sheet  we  gleaned  some  farther  items  of 
general  intelligence  from  the  United  States,  all  of  great  interest 
to  us.  The  leading  paragraph,  under  the  editorial  head,  was, 
in  substance,  a  call  upon  the  people  of  California  to  set  about 
the  organization  of  a  territorial  grovernment,  with  a  view  to  iia- 
mediate  annexation  to  the  United  States.  This  seemed  and 
sounded  very  odd.  We  had  been  travelling  in  as  straight  a 
line  as  we  could,  crossing  rivers,  mountains,  and  deserts,  nearly 
four  months  beyond  the  bounds  of  civilization,  and  for  the 
greater  distance  beyond  the  boundaries  of  territory  claimed  by 
our  government;  but  here,  on  the  remotest  confines  of  the 
world  as  it  were,  where  we  expected  to  visit  and  explore  a 
foreign  country,  we  found  ourselves  under  Ameiican  authority, 
and  about  to  be  "  annexed"  to  the  American  Union.  Events 
such  as  this  are  very  remarkable,  and  are  well  calculated  tc 
excite  the  pride  and  vanity,  if  they  do  not  always  tally  with 
the  reason  and  judgment,  of  American  citizens  and  republicans 
Distance  17  miles. 


CHAPTER   XIX. 

Soil  of  JohiiBon's  rancho — His  crops — Price  of  flour — Soil  of  the  Sacra- 
mento valley — Sinclair's  rancho — A  white  woman — Sutter's  Fort — 
Now  Hflvptia — Interview  with  Captain  Sutter — Reflections  upon  our 
journey — Table  of  distances  from  Independence  to  San  Francisco. 

August  31. — The  soil  of  the  bottom-land  of  Mr.  Johnson's 
rancho  appears  to  be  foitile  and  productive  of  good  crops.  He 
settled  here  last  October  A  small  wheat-field,  although  the 
season  was  not  regarded  as  a  good  one,  produced  him  300 
bushels,  an  average  of  25  or  30  bushels  to  the  acre.  In  addi- 
tion to  tkis  he   raised  a  crop  of  barley,  the  kernel  of  which  ie 


PRICE  OF  FLOUR — SACRAMENTO  VALLEY.      245 

the  largest  I  have  ever  previously  seen.  I  saw  com  standiug 
in  the  field,  but  it  did  not  look  promising, — the  ground  was  evi- 
dently too  dry  for  it. 

We  procured  of  Mr.  Johnson  a  quantity  of  unbolted  flour  at 
the  rate  of  $8  per  100  lbs. ;  also  some  fresh  beef,  cheese,  and 
butter,  (the  last  three  luxuries,  which  we  had  not  for  a  long 
time  tasted.)  At  1  o'clock  we  marched  south  seven  miles,  and 
encamped  on  the  bank  of  a  chain  of  small  ponds  of  water.  The 
grass  around  the  ponds  was  rank  and  green,  and  we  were  pro- 
tected from  the  hot  rays  of  the  afternoon  sun  by  the  shade  of 
evergreen  oaks.  This  oak,  which  is  the  prevailing  timber  in 
the  valleys  of  Upper  California,  although  it  much  resembles  the 
live-oak  of  Florida,  is  not  precisely  the  same  species.  It  is  much 
more  porous  and  brittle.  We  saw  on  the  plain  several  flocks  of 
antelope,  one  of  which  numbered  at  least  two  hundred.  A  spe- 
cies of  the  jackal,  called  here  the  coyote,  frequently  approached 
within  a  few  rods  of  us.  Large  numbers  of  wild  ducks  were 
flying  about  and  swimming  in  the  ponds.  We  shot  several  of 
these.     Distance  7  miles. 

September  1. — A  clear,  pleasant  morning.  We  took  a  south 
course  down  the  valley,  and  at  4  o'clock,  p.  m.,  reached  the  resi- 
dence of  John  Sinclair,  Esq.,  on  the  Rio  de  los  Americanos, 
about  two  miles  east  of  Sutter's  Fort.  The  valley  of  the  Sacra- 
mento, as  far  as  we  have  travelled  down  it,  is  from  30  to  40 
miles  in  width,  from  the  foot  of  the  low  benches  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  to  the  elevated  range  of  hills  on  the  western  side.  The 
composition  of  the  soil  appears  to  be  such  as  to  render  it  highly 
productive,  with  proper  cultivation,  of  the  small  grains.  The 
ground  is  trodden  up  by  immense  herds  of  cattle  and  horses 
which  grazed  here  early  in  the  spring,  when  it  was  wet  and 
apparently  miry.  We  passed  through  large  evergreen  oak 
groves,  some  of  them  miles  in  width.  Game  is  very  abundant. 
We  frequently  saw  deer  feeding  quietly  one  or  two  hundred 
yards  from  us,  and  large  flocks  of  antelopes. 

Mr.  Sinclair,  with  a  number  of  horses  and  Indians,  was  en- 
gaged in  threshing  wheat.  His  crop  this  year,  he  informed 
me,  would  be  about  three  thousand   bushels.     The  soil  of  his 

21* 


246  SINCLAIR  S RIO  LOS  Ai^ERICAMOS. 

rancho,  situated  in  the  bottom  of  the  Rio  de  los  Americanos, 
just  above  its  junction  with  the  Sacramento,  is  highly  fertile.  Hia 
wheat-fields  are  secured  against  the  numerous  herds  of  cattle 
and  horses,  which  constitute  the  largest  item  in  the  husbandry 
of  this  country,  by  ditches  about  five  feet  in  depth,  and  four 
or  five  feet  over  at  the  surface.  The  dwelling-house  and  out- 
houses of  Mr.  Sinclair,  are  all  constructed  after  American  models, 
and  present  a  most  comfortable  and  neat  appearance.  It  v.•a^ 
a  pleasant  scene,  after  having  travelled  many  months  in  the  wil- 
derness, to  survey  this  abode  of  apparent  thrift  and  enjoyment, 
resembling  so  nearly  those  we  had  left  in  the  far-off  country 
behind  us. 

In  searching  for  the  ford  over  the  Rio  de  los  Americanos,  in 
order  to  proceed  on  to  Sutter's  Fort,  I  saw  a  lady  of  a  graceful 
though  fragile  figure,  dressed  in  the  costume  of  our  own  coun- 
trywomen. She  was  giving  some  directions  to  her  female  ser- 
vants, and  did  not  discover  me  until  I  spoke  to  her  and  inquired 
ihe  position  of  the  ford.  Her  pale  and  dehcate,  but  handsome 
and  expressive  countenance,  indicated  much  surprise,  produced 
by  my  sudden  and  unexpected  salutation.  But  collecting  her- 
self, she  replied  to  my  inquiry  in  vernacular  English,  and  the 
sounds  of  her  voice,  speaking  our  own  language,  and  her  civil- 
ized appearance,  were  highly  pleasing.  This  lady,  I  presume, 
was  Mrs.  Sinclair,  but  I  never  saw  her  afterwards. 

Crossiner  the  Rio  de  los  Americanos,  the  waters  of  which,  at 
this  season,  are  quite  shallow  at  the  ford,  we  proceeded  over  a 
•well-beaten  road  to  Sutter's  Fort,  arriving  there  when  the  sun 
was  about  an  hour  and  a  half  high.  Riding  up  to  the  front 
gate  I  saw  two  Indian  sentinels  pacing  to  and  fro  before  it,  and 
several  Americans,  or  foreigners,  (as  all  who  are  not  Califor- 
nians  b}'  birth  are  here  called,)  sitting  in  the  gateway,  dressed 
in  buckskin  j)antaloons  and  blue  sailors'  shirts  with  white  stars 
worked  on  the  collars.  I  inquired  if  Captain  Sutter  was  in  the 
fort  ?  A  very  small  man,  with  a  peculiarly  sharp  red  face  and 
t  most  voluble  tongue,  gave  the  response.  He  was  probably 
a  corporal.  He  said  in  substance,  that  perhaps  I  was  notawarr 
of  the  great  changes  which  had  recently  taken  place  in  Califor' 


CAPTAIN  SUTTER — CIVILIZATION  247 

nia ; — that  the  fort  now  belonged  to  the  United  States,  and 
that  Captain  Sutter,  although  he  was  in  the  fort,  had  no  con- 
trol over  it.  He  was  going  into  a  minute  history  of  the  compli- 
cated circumstances  and  events  which  had  produced  this  result, 
when  I  reminded  him  that  we  were  too  much  fatigued  to  hsten 
to  a  long  discourse,  but  if  Captain  Sutter  was  inside  the  walls, 
and  could  conveniently  step  to  the  gate  a  moment,  I  would  be 
glad  to  see  him.  A  lazy-looking  Indian  with  a  ruminating 
countenance,  after  some  time  spent  in  parleying,  was  dispatched 
with  my  message  to  Captain  Sutter. 

Capt.  S.  soon  came  to  the  gate,  and  saluted  us  with  much 
gentlemanly  courtesy,  and  friendly  cordiality.  He  said  that 
events  had  transpired  in  the  country,  which,  to  his  deep  regret, 
had  so  far  deprived  him  of  the  control  of  his  own  property,  that 
he  did  not  feel  authorized  to  invite  us  inside  of  the  walls  to  re- 
main. The  fort,  he  said,  was  occupied  by  soldiers,  under  the 
pay  of  the  U.  S.,  and  commanded  by  Mr.  Kern.  I  replied  to 
him,  that  although  it  would  be  something  of  a  novelty  to  sleep 
under  a  roof,  after  our  late  nomadic  life,  it  was  a  matter  of  small 
consideration.  If  he  would  supply  us  with  some  meat,  a  little 
salt,  and  such  vegetables  as  he  might  have,  we  neither  asked 
nor  desired  more  from  his  hospitality,  which  we  all  knew  was 
Uberal,  to  the  highest  degree  of  generosity. 

A  servant  was  immediately  dispatched  with  orders  to  furnish 
us  with  a  supply  of  beef,  salt,  melons,  onions,  and  tomatoes,  for 
which  no  compensation  would  be  received.  We  proceeded  im- 
mediately to  a  grove  of  live-oak  timber,  about  two  miles  west  of 
the  fort,  and  encamped  within  a  half  a  mile  of  the  Sacramento 
river.  Our  fires  were  soon  blazing  brightly,  added  to  the  light 
of  which  was  the  brilliant  effulgence  of  tlie  moon,  now  near  its 
full,  clothing  the  tree-tops,  and  the  far-stretching  landscape, 
with  a  silvery  hght ;  and  rendering  our  encampment  far  more 
agreeable  to  me  than  the  confined  walls  of  any  edifice  erected 
bv  human  hands. 

With  sincere  and  devout  thankfulness  I  laid  myself  on  my 
hard  bed,  to  sleep  once  more  within  the  boundaries  of  civiliza- 
ti'in.     Since  we  left  our  homes  none  of  our  party  have  met  with 


948  TABLE  OF  DISTANCES,   ETC. 

any  serious  accidents  or  disasters.  With  the  small  number  ol 
only  nine  men,  we  have  travelled  from  Fort  Laramie  to  Sutter's 
Fort,  a  distance  of  nearly  1700  miles,  over  trackless  and  barren 
deserts,  and  almost  impassable  mountains  ;  through  tribes  of 
savage  Indians,  encoimtering  necessarily  many  difficulties,  and 
enduring  great  hardships  and  privations  ;  and  here  we  all  are,  in 
good  health,  with  the  loss  of  nothing  materially  valuable  be- 
longing to  us,  except  a  single  animal,  which  gave  out  from 
fatigue,  and  was  left  on  the  road.  We  have  had  no  quarrels 
with  Indians,  rendering  it  necessary  in  self-defence  to  take  their 
lives  ;  but  on  the  contrary,  whenever  we  have  met  them  on  our 
journey,  by  our  deportment  towards  them,  their  friendship  has 
been  conciliated,  or  their  hostility  softened  and  disarmed,  with- 
out striking  a  blow.  We  uniformly  respected  then-  feelings  and 
their  rights,  and  they  respected  us.  Resvdts  so  favorable  as 
these,  to  expeditions  constituted  as  was  ours,  and  acting  under 
such  circumstances,  are  not  often  recorded.     Distance  28  miles. 

Table  of  distances  from  Independence,  Missouri,  to  Sutter  s  Fort, 
on  the  Sacramento  river.  Upper  California. 

The  following  is  a  table  of  distances  from  Independence  to  Sutter's  Fort, 
in  California,  by  the  route  which  I  travelled,  according  to  the  daily  estimate 
>f  our  marches. 

From  Independence,  Mo.,  to  Fort  Laramie, 672  miles. 

From  Fort  Laramie  to  "  Pacific  Springs,"  (South  Pass,)  311  " 
From  the  "  South  Pass,"    (Pacific  Springs,)   to  Fort 

Bridger, 133  " 

From  Fort  Bridger  to  Salt  Lake, 106  " 

From  Salt  Lake  to  Mary's  river, 315  " 

Down  Mary's  river  to  the  "  Sink," 274  " 

From  llie  "  Sink"  to  Truckee  Lake, 134  " 

From  Triicki'e  Lake  to  .lohuson's, Ill  " 

From  Johnson's  to  Sutter's  Fort, 35  " 

Total  distance  from  Independence,  Mo.,  lo  Sutter's 
Fort,  in  California, 2091 

The  distance  from  Sutter's  Fort  by  land,  to  the  town 
of  San  I'runci.sco,  (via  the  Puebia  of  Sau  Jose,) 
■oar  the  month  of  the  Bay  of  S.  F.,  and  five  miles 
from  the  Pacific  Ocean,  is 200      " 

Total, 2291  miioi. 


THB  OREGON  EMIGRAMTS.  249 


CHAPTER    XX. 

Acoount  of  the  disasters  to  the  emigrating  parties  of  1846 — The  Oregon  emi- 
grants— Causes  of  delay  which  resulted  in  fatal  consequences — Generosity 
of  the  people  of  San  Francisco,  and  Capt.  Sutter — John  Sinclair's  state- 
ment— Dreadful  sufferings  of  the  first  party  who  crossed  on  the  snows — 
George  McKinstry's  statement — Journal  of  one  of  the  sufTerers — List  of 
those  who  perished — Particulars  of  the  death  of  George  Donner  and  wife 
— Keysburgh's  cannibalism — Interment  of  the  bones  by  Gen.  Kearney's 
party  in  June,  1847. 

Having  accomplished  the  journey  from  the  United  States  to 
the  ci\'ilized  districts  of  Upper  California,  it  is  proper  that  I 
shoidd  give  some  accotmt  of  those  with  whom  I  started  and 
travelled  a  portion  of  the  distance. 

The  great  bulk  of  the  emigration  of  1846  both  to  California 
and  Oregon  took  the  old  routes  of  former  emigrating  parties 
The  company  of  Capt.  West  on  Mary's  river  had  a  difficulty 
and  a  fight  with  a  large  party  of  Digger  Indians.  In  this  en- 
comiter  a  Mr.  Sallee  lost  his  hfe  from  a  wound  by  a  poisoned 
arrow.  Mr.  Lippincott  was  wounded  in  the  knee,  but  he  re- 
covered. With  this  exception  all  of  these,  I  believe,  reached 
their  destination  in  safety  and  in  good  season. 

A  party  consisting  of  some  sixty  or  eighty  wagons  bound  for 
Oregon,  among  whom  were  the  Messrs.  Putnam  of  Lexington, 
Ky.,  took  the  new  route  to  the  Wilhamette  valley,  explored  by 
Mr.  Applegate  and  his  party,  whom  we  met  on  Mary's  river. 
This  company  became  entangled  in  the  Umpqua  moimtains, 
(not  very  distant  from  the  settlements  of  Oregon,)  and  after 
suffering  great  hardships,  were  compelled  to  abandon  all  their 
wagons  and  baggage.  With  the  aid  of  parties  sent  for  their 
relief  from  the  Wilhamette  valley,  nearly  all  of  them,  however, 
reached  their  destination.  Mr.  Newton,  whom  I  have  pre^•iously 
mentioned,  was  murdered  by  some  Indians.  They  professed 
to  be  friendly  and  loitered  about  Mr.  N.'s  camp.     He  suspected 


250  INDIAN    HURDFP 

them  of  hostile  intentions  and  ordered  them  away.  They  how- 
ever managed  to  secure  some  powder  and  balls,  and  availing 
themselves  of  a  moment  when  Mr.  N.,  being  worn  out  with 
watching,  had  fallen  asleep  outside  of  his  tent,  they  shot  three 
balls  into  him.  He  sprang  into  the  tent  to  secure  his  rifle,  but 
was  seized  by  one  of  his  assailants,  who  with  an  axe  nearly  sev- 
ered one  of  his  legs.  He  died  of  his  wounds  the  next  day. 
Mrs.  N.  escaped.  The  Indians  robbed  the  tent  of  all  its  porta- 
ble contents. 

The  number  of  wagons  which  took  the  new  route  from 
Fort  Bridger  via  the  south  end  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  in- 
tersecting with  the  old  wagon- trail  on  Mary's  river  250  miles 
above  the  Sink,  was  about  eighty.  The  advance  company  of 
these  was  Mr.  Harlan's.  The  pioneers,  and  those  following 
their  trail,  succeeded  by  energetic  exertions  in  opening  a  ro^ 
through  the  difficult  mountain  passes  near  the  Salt  Lake,  and 
reached  the  settlements  of  California  in  good  season.  The 
rear  party,  known  as  Messrs.  Reed  and  Donner's  company,  did 
not  follow  the  trail  of  those  who  had  preceded  them,  but  ex- 
plored for  a  portion  of  the  distance,  another  route,  and  opened 
a  new  road  through  the  Desert  Basin.  In  making  these  explo- 
rations and  from  other  causes,  they  lost  a  month's  time,  the 
consequence  of  which  was,  that  they  did  not  reach  the  Pass  of 
the  Sierra  Nevada  untU  the  31st  of  October,  when  they  should 
have  been  there  by  tlie  1st  of  October. 

The  snow  commenced  falling  on  the  Sierra,  two  or  three 
weeks  earlier  in  1846  than  is  usual,  and  when  this  party  arrived 
at  the  foot  of  the  Pass  they  found  it  impossible  to  proceed  from 
its  depth.  Tlie  people  of  the  town  of  San  Francisco,  as  soon 
as  they  received  intelligence  of  the  dangerous  situation  of  these 
emigrants,  held  a  public  meeting,  and  with  a  liberaUty  that  re- 
flects the  higluist  credit  upon  them,  subscribed  fifteen  hundred 
dollars  for  the  organization  of  a  party  that  would  penetrate  the 
mountains  for  their  relief.  This  party  started,  and  soon  after- 
wards other  parties  under  the  direction  of  the  naval  command- 
ant at  the  Port  of  San  Francisco,  were  organized  for  the  same 
object      Capt    J.  A.  Suj tku,  a  philanthropist  in  its  most  ex- 


i 


STATEMENT  OF  JOHN  SINCLAIR.  251 

presshe  and  least  ostentatious  sense,  displayed  his  character- 
istic generosity  and  benevolence  on  this  occasion.  At  his  own 
expense  and  hazard,  before  other  exertions  were  made,  he 
furnished  men  and  mules  laden  with  provis'.ons  for  the  relief  of 
the  perishing  sufferers.  The  result  of  these  exertions  in  behalf 
of  the  unfortimate  emigrants,  and  the  melancholy  and  in  some 
respects  horrible  details  of  their  sufferings,  will  be  best  vmder- 
stood  by  a  perusal  of  the  following  extracts  from  authentic 
papers  in  my  possession.  They  compose  a  chapter  of  human 
misery,  for  which  there  are  but  few  parallels  in  fact  or  fiction. 

Statement  of  John  Sinclair   Esq.,  Alcalde.      District  of 

Sacramento. 

Rancho  del  Pabo,  February,  1847. 
Dear  Sir, — 

The  following  brief  sketch  of  the  sufferings  of  the  emigrants  who  endeavored 
at  different  times  to  reach  this  valley  from  the  mountains,  where  they  had 
been  caught  by  the  snow  in  October,  is  drawn  up  at  the  request  of  the  sur- 
vivors, with  whom  I  have  held  several  conversations  on  the  subject,  and 
from  a  few  short  notes  handed  me  by  W.  H.  Eddy,  one  of  the  party.  Such 
as  they  are,  and  hastily  thrown  together,  I  place  them  at  your  disposal. 

On  the  first  of  November,  Patrick  Brin,  Patrick  Dolan, Keysburg, 

and  W.  H.  Eddy,  left  their  cabins,  and  attempted  to  cross  the  dividing  ridge 
of  the  mountains ;  but  owing  to  the  softness  and  depth  of  the  snow,  they 
were  obliged  to  return.  On  the  third  they  tried  it  again,  taking  with  them 
Mrs.  Reed  and  family,  Mr.  Stanton,  and  two  Indians,  who  were  in  the  em- 
ploy of  J.  A.  Sutter ;  but  after  being  out  one  day  and  night,  they  returned 
to  their  cabins.  On  the  twelfth,  Mr.  Graves,  and  two  daughters,  Messrs. 
Fosdick,  Foster,  Eddy,  Stanton,  Sheumacher,  with  two  New  Mexicans, 
and  the  two  Indians,  started  on  another  trial,  but  met  with  no  better  success. 
Not  discouraged,  and  impelled  by  the  increasing  scarcity  of  provisions  at 
the  cabins,  on  the  twentieth  they  tried  it  again,  and  succeeded  in  crossing 
the  divide  ;  but  found  it  was  impossible  for  them  to  proceed  for  the  want  of 
a  pilot,  Mr.  Stanton  having  refused  to  allow  the  Indians  to  accompany 
them  on  account  of  not  being  able  to  bring  the  mules  out  with  them, 
which  Mr.  Stanton  had  taken  there  with  provisions  from  J.  A.  Sutter's,  pre- 
vious to  the  falling  of  the  snow.  Here  again  were  their  warmest  hopes 
blighted ;  and  they  again  turned  with  heavy  hearts  towards  their  miserable 
cabins.  Mrs.  Murphy,  daughter,  and  two  sons  were  of  this  party.  During 
the  interval  between  this  last  attempt  and  the  next,  there  came  on  a  storm, 
and  the  snow  fell  to  the  depth  of  eight  feet.  In  the  midst  of  the  storm,  two 
young  men  started  to  go  to  another  party  of  emigrants,  (twenty -four  ia 


252  STATEMENT    OF    JOHN    SINCLAIR. 

Qumber,)  distant  about  eight  miles,  who  it  was  known  at  the  commeacement 
of  the  storm  had  no  cabins  built,  neither  had  they  killed  their  cattle,  as  they 
still  had  hopes  of  being  able  to  cross  the  mountains.  As  the  two  young  men 
never  returned,  it  is  supposed  they  perished  in  the  storm  ;  and  it  is  the 
opinion  of  those  who  have  arrived  here,  that  the  party  to  whom  they  were 
going  must  have  all  perished.  On  the  sixteenth  of  December,  expecting 
that  they  would  be  able  to  reach  the  settlements  in  ten  days,  Messrs.  Graves, 
Fosdick,  Dolan,  Foster,  Eddy,  Stuiitou,  L.  Murphy,  (aged  thirteen,^ 
Antonio,  a  New  Mexican  ;  with  Mrs.  Fosdick,  Mrs.  Foster,  Mrs.  Pike,  Mrs 
McCutcheon,  and  Miss  M.  Graves,  and  the  two  Indians  before  mentioned 
having  prepared  themselves  with  snow-shoes,  again  started  on  their  periloiu 
undertaking,  determined  to  succeed  or  perish. 

Those  who  have  ever  made  an  attempt  to  walk  with  snow-shoes  will  be 
able  to  realize  the  difficulty  they  experienced.  On  first  starting,  the  snow 
being  so  light  and  loose,  even  with  their  snow-shoes,  they  sank  twelve  inches 
at  every  step  ;  however,  they  succeeded  in  travelling  about  four  miles  that  day. 
On  the  seventeenth  they  crossed  the  divide,  with  considerable  difficulty  and 
fatigue,  making  about  five  miles,  the  snow  on  the  divide  being  twelve  feet 
deep.  The  next  day  they  made  six  miles,  and,  on  the  nineteenth  five,  it 
having  snowed  all  day.  On  the  twentieth  tiie  sun  rose  clear  and  beautiful, 
and  cheered  by  its  sparkling  rays,  they  pursued  their  weary  way.  Frorr 
the  first  day,  Mr.  Stanton,  it  appears,  could  not  keep  up  with  them,  but  hac 
always  reached  their  camp  by  the  time  they  got  their  fire  built,  and  prepara- 
tions made  for  passing  the  night.  This  day  they  had  travelled  eight  miles, 
and  encamped  early  ;  and  as  the  shades  of  evening  gathered  round  them, 
many  an  anxious  glance  was  cast  back  through  tlie  deepening  gloom  for 
Stanton  ;  but  he  came  not.  Before  morning  the  weather  became  stormy, 
and  at  daylight  they  started  and  went  about  four  miles,  when  they  en- 
camped, and  agreed  to  wait  and  see  if  Stanton  would  come  up  ;  but  that 
night  his  place  was  agaiu  vacant  by  their  cheerless  fire,  while  he,  I  sup- 
pose, had  escaped  from  all  further  sutFeriiig,  and  lay  wrapped  in  his  "  wind- 
ing sheet  of  snow" — 

"  His  weary  wand'nngs  and  Ins  irarels  o'er 

On  the  twouly-second  the  storm  still  continued,  and  they  remained  iu 
camp  until  the  twenly-lliird,  when  they  again  started,  although  the  storm 
Ktill  continued,  and  travelled  eight  miles.  They  encamped  in  a  deep  valley 
Here  the  api)earaiico  of  the  country  was  so  diffijrent  from  what  it  had  beer, 
rcprr'sentrd  to  them,  (probably  by  Mr.  Stanton,)  that  they  came  to  the  con- 
clusion that  they  were  lost ;  and  the  tv,  j  Indians  on  whom  they  had  placed  all 
their  confidence,  were  bewildered.  In  this  melancholy  situation  they  con- 
sulted together,  and  concluded  they  would  go  on,  trusting  in  Providence, 
rallHT  than  return  to  their  -jiiserablo  cabins.  They  were,  also,  at  this  time, 
■ut  of  proviaious,  and  ijarlly  agreed,  with  the  exccptiou  of  Mr.  Foster,  the* 


JOHN  Sinclair's  statement.  253 

in  ease  of  necessity,  they  would  cast  lots  who  should  die  to  preserve  the  re- 
mainder. During  the  whole  of  the  night  it  rained  and  snowed  very  heavily, 
and  by  morning  the  snow  had  so  increased  that  they  could  not  travel ;  while, 
to  add  to  their  sufferings,  their  fire  had  been  put  out  by  the  rain,  and  all 
their  endeavors  to  light  another  proved  abortive. 

How  heart-rendiug  must  have  been  their  situation  at  this  time,  as  they 
gazed  upon  each  other,  shivering  and  shrinking  from  the  pitiless  storm  I  Oh  ! 
how  they  must  have  thought  of  those  happy,  happy  homes,  which  but  a 
few  short  months  before  they  had  left  with  buoyant  hopes  and  fond  antici- 
pations !  Where,  oh  where  were  the  green  and  flowery  plains  which  they 
had  heard  of,  dreamt,  and  anticipated  beholding,  in  the  mouth  of  January, 
in  CalifoTuia  ?  Alas  I  many  of  that  little  party  were  destined  never  to  behold 
them.  Already  was  death  in  the  midst  of  them.  Antonio  died  about  nine, 
A.  M. ;  and  at  eleven  o'clock,  p.  m.,  Mr.  Graves.  The  feelings  of  the  rest 
may  be  imagined,  on  seeing  two  of  their  small  party  removed  by  death  in  a 
few  hoars  from  among  them,  while  the  thought  must  have  struck  home  to 
every  bosom,  that  they  too  would  shortly  follow. 

lu  this  critical  situation,  the  presence  of  mind  of  Mr.  Eddy  suggested  a 
plan  for  keeping  themselves  warm,  which  is  common  amongst  the  trappers 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  when  caught  in  the  snow  without  fire.  It  is  sim- 
ply to  spread  a  blanket  on  the  snow,  when  the  party,  (if  small,)  with  the 
exception  of  one,  sit  down  upon  it  in  a  circle,  closely  as  possible,  their  feet 
piled  over  one  another  in  the  centre,  room  being  left  for  the  person  who  has 
to  complete  the  arrangement.  As  many  blankets  as  necessary  are  then 
spread  over  the  heads  of  the  party,  the  ends  being  kept  down  by  billets  oi 
wood  or  snow.  After  every  thing  is  completed,  the  person  outside  takes  his 
place  in  the  circle.  As  the  snow  falls  it  closes  up  the  pores  of  the  blankets, 
while  the  breath  from  the  party  underneath  soon  causes  a  comfortable 
warmth.  It  was  with  a  great  deal  of  difficulty  that  Mr.  Eddy  succeeded  in 
getting  them  to  adopt  this  simple  plan,  which  undoubtedly  was  the  means  of 
saving  their  lives  at  this  time.    In  this  situation  they  remained  thirty -six  hours. 

On  the  twenty-fifth,  about  four  o'clock,  p.  m.,  Patrick  Dolau  died ;  he 
had  been  for  some  hours  delirious,  and  escaped  from  under  their  shelter, 
when  he  stripped  off  his  coat,  hat,  and  boots,  and  exposed  himself  to  the 
storm.  Mr.  Eddy  tried  to  force  him  back,  but  his  strength  was  unequal  to 
the  task.  He,  however,  afterwards  returned  of  his  own  accord,  and  laid 
down  outside  of  their  shelter,  when  they  succeeded  in  dragging  him  inside 
On  the  twenty-sixth,  L.  Murphy  died,  he  likewise  being  delirious  ;  and  was 
only  kept  under  their  shelter  by  the  united  strength  of  the  party. 

In  the  afternoon  of  this  day  they  succeeded  in  getting  fire  into  a  dry  pine- 
tree.  Having  been  four  entire  days  without  food,  and  since  the  month  of  Octo- 
ber on  short  allowance,  there  was  now  but  two  alternatives  left  them — either 
to  die,  or  preserve  life  by  eating  the  bodies  of  the  dead :  slowly  and  reluc> 
tantly  they  adopted  the  latter  alternative       On  the  twenty-seventh  th»j 

22 


254  JOHN  Sinclair's  statement. 

took  the  flesh  from  the  bodies  of  the  dead  ;  aud  on  that,  sjid  the  two  follow* 
mg  days  they  remained  in  camp  drying  the  meat,  and  preparing  to  pursue 
their  journey.  On  the  thirtieth  they  left  this  melancholy  spot,  where  so 
many  of  their  friends  and  relatives  had  perished  ;  and  with  heavy  hearts 
and  dark  forebodings  of  the  future,  pursued  their  pathless  course  through 
ihe  new-fallen  snow,  and  made  about  five  miles :  next  day  about  six  miles. 
January  first  was  one  of  the  most  fatiguing  day's  journeys  which  they  had. 
They  were  compelled  to  climb  a  mountain,  which  they  represent  as  nearly 
perpendicular;  to  accomplish  which,  they  were  obliged  to  take  advantage 
of  every  cleft  of  rock,  and  pull  themselves  up  by  shrubs  growing  in  the 
crevices.  On  the  second  they  found  they  could  go  without  snow-shoes, 
which,  however,  gave  them  but  little  relief ;  their  feet  being  so  badly  frozen 
by  this  time,  that  every  step  was  marked  with  blood,  and  the  toes  of  one  of 
the  Indians  had  dropped  ofi'at  the  first  joint.  They  were  also  again  out  of 
provisions.  On  the  third  they  travelled  seven  miles,  and  at  night  fared  on 
the  strings  of  their  snow-shoes. 

Some  time  during  the  night  of  the  fourth,  the  Indians  left  them  ;  no  doubt 
fearful  to  remain,  lest  they  might  be  sacrificed  for  food.  Poor  fellows,  they 
Btood  the  pangs  of  hunger  two  days  longer  than  their  white  fellow-travellers 
before  they  tasted  of  the  human  flesh.  On  the  morning  of  the  fifth,  the  party 
took  the  trail  of  the  Indians,  following  it  by  the  blood  which  marked  their 
steps.  After  having  travelled  about  a  mile,  they  discovered  fresh  footprints 
'■'"  flpor  in  the  snow,  when  Mr.  Eddy,  who  had  a  rifle,  started  with  Miss 
vj.uves,  in  advance,  hoping  to  fall  in  with  them,  which  they  fortunately  did, 
and  succeeded  in  killing  one,  after  travelling  about  eight  miles,  at  the  foot 
of  a  mountain.  That  night  Mr.  Foster  and  wife,  Mrs.  Pike,  and  Mrs. 
McCutcheon,  encamped  on  the  top  of  the  mountain,  not  being  able  to  get 
to  where  Eddy  was  with  the  deer.  Mr.  Fosdick  having  given  out,  re- 
mained with  his  wife  about  a  mile  back  from  them.  On  the  next  day  they 
got  what  remained  of  the  deer  to  the  top  of  the  mountain,  and  two  of  them 
went  back  to  look  for  Fosdick  ;  but  he  was  at  that  time  "  where  the  weary 
are  at  rest,"  having  died  about  eleven  o'clock,  p.  m.  ;  and  his  wife  had  laii 
by  iiis  side  that  lonesome  night,  and  prayed  that  death  might  release  hei 
from  Bufibring,  but  in  vain. 

The  flesh  was  taken  from  the  bores  of  jwor  Fosdick,  and  brought  inti 
camp ;  but  there  was  one  there  wh  tasted  not  of  it.  Ou  the  seventh  and 
eighth  tlicy  only  made  about  two  and  a  half  miles,  going  down  one  moun 
tain  and  over  another.  Ou  the  ninth,  after  travelling  four  miles,  they  fell 
in  with  the  two  Indians,  who  hud  thun  got  out  of  the  snow.  Salvador  was 
dead.  Lewis  had  crawled  to  a  small  stream  of  water,  aud  lain  down  to 
drink.  They  raised  hiu)  ui>,  and  ofFerod  him  some  food ;  he  tried  to  eat, 
but  could  not  ;  aud  only  lived  about  an  hour.  Being  nearly  out  of  pro- 
risions,  aud  knowing  not  how  far  they  might  be  from  the  settlemeuti,  they 
Uwk  their  deHh  likewiue 


J 


GEO.  M*KINSTRy's  LETTER.  265 

Un  the  tenth  and  eleventh  they  made  about  seventeen  miles,  when  falling 
In  with  an  Indian  trail,  they  concluded  they  would  follow  it,  which  they 
accordingly  did  ;  and  on  the  twelfth,  fell  in  with  some  of  the  Indians,  who 
treated  them  kindly,  gave  them  some  acorns,  and  put  them  on  to  another 
trail  the  next  day,  which  they  took,  and  after  travelling  four  miles  in  a 
heavy  rain-storm,  they  came  to  more  Indians,  with  whom  they  stopped  the 
remainder  of  that  day  and  the  next.  The  two  next  days  they  made  about 
seventeen  miles.  The  seventeenth,  after  walking  two  or  three  miles,  with 
an  Indian  for  a  pilot,  Mr.  Foster  and  the  women  gave  out,  their  feet  beintj 
swollen  to  such  a  degree  that  they  could  go  no  further. 

Mr.  Eddy,  who  it  appears  stood  the  fatigues  of  the  journey  better  than 
any  of  them,  here  left  them  ;  and  assisted  by  two  Indians,  tiiat  evening 
reached  the  settlement  on  Bear  Creek.  The  inhabitants,  on  being  informed 
of  the  situation  of  the  party  behind,  immediately  started  with  provisions  on 
foot,  and  reached  them  that  night  about  twelve  o'clock.  On  the  morning  of 
the  eighteenth,  others  started  with  horses,  and  brought  them  to  the  settle- 
ment, where  they  were  treated  with  every  mark  of  kindness  by  the  mhabi- 
tanta. 

I  remam,  very  respectfully, 

Your  obd't  servant, 

John  Sinclair 


EXTRACT  OF  A  LETTER  FROM  MR.  GEO.  M'KINSTRY. 

Captain  E.  Kern  informed  you  of  the  men  sent  up  from  this  place  to  the 
assistance  of  the  sufferers,  when  we  were  first  informed  of  their  situation. 
I  will  again  give  you  a  list  of  their  names,  as  I  think  they  ought  to  be  re- 
corded in  letters  of  gold.  Aquila  Glover,  R.  S.  Montrey,  Daniel  Rhodes,  John 
Rhodes,  Daniel  Tucker,  Joseph  Sel,  and  Edward  Copymier.  Mr.  Glover,  who 
was  put  in  charge  of  this  little,  brave  band  of  men,  returns  to  me  his  journal, 
from  which  I  extract  as  follows: — "On  the  13th  of  February,  1847,  our 
party  arrived  at  the  Bear  River  Valley.  14th,  remained  in  camp,  preparing 
packs  and  provisions.  15th,  left  Bear  River  Valley,  and  travelled  fifteen 
miles,  and  encamped  on  Yuba  river.  16th,  travelled  three  miles,  and  stopped 
to  make  snow-shoes.  17th,  travelled  five  miles,  and  camped  on  Yuba  river 
— snow  fifteen  feet  deep,  dry  and  soft.  18th,  travelled  eight  miles,  and  en- 
camped on  the  head  of  Yuba  river.  19th,  travelled  nine  miles,  crossed  the 
summit  of  the  California  mountains,  and  reached  part  of  the  sufForing  com- 
pany about  sundown,  in  camp  near  Truckee  Lake."  Mr.  Glover  informs 
me  that  he  found  them  in  a  most  deplorable  condition,  entirely  beyond  de- 
■criptlon  Ten  of  their  number  had  already  died  from  starvation  ;  and  he 
thinks  several  others  will  die  in  camp,  as  they  are  too  low  to  resuscitate. 
The  whole  party  had  been  Uving  on  buUoek-bidea  four  weeks.    On  th« 


;356  JOURNAL  OF  A  SUFFERER. 

moraiiig  of  the  20th,  the  party  went  down  to  the  camp  of  Geo.  Donner 
eight  miles  below  the  first  camp,  and  found  them  with  but  one  hide  left 
They  had  come  to  the  conclusion,  that  when  that  was  consumed,  to  dig  up 
the  bodies  of  those  who  had  died  from  starvation,  and  use  them  as  food. 
When  the  party  arrived  at  the  camp,  they  were  obliged  to  guard  the  little 
stock  of  provision  that  they  had  carried  over  the  mountains  on  their  backs 
on  foot,  for  the  relief  of  the  poor  beings,  as  they  were  in  such  a  starving 
condition  that  they  would  have  immediately  used  up  the  small  store.  They 
even  stole  the  buckskin  strings  from  their  snow-shoes,  and  ate  them.  This 
little,  brave  band  of  men  immediately  left  with  twenty-one  persons,  princi- 
pally women  and  childrea,  for  the  settlements.  They  left  all  the  food  they 
could  spare  with  those  (twenty-nine  in  number)  that  they  were  obliged  to 
leave  behind,  and  promised  them  that  they  would  immediately  return  to 
their  assistance.  They  were  successful  in  bringing  all  safe  over  the  moun- 
tains. Four  of  the  children  they  were  obliged  to  carrj'  on  their  backs,  the 
balance  walked.  On  their  arrival  at  the  Bear  River  Valley  they  met  a  small 
party  with  provisions,  that  Captain  Kern,  of  this  fort,  had  sent  for  their 
relief.  The  same  day  they  met  Mr.  Reed  with  fifteen  men,  on  foot,  packed 
with  provisions,  who  ere  this  have  reached  the  suiFerers.  Lieutenant  Wood- 
worth  was  going  ahead  with  a  full  force,  and  will  himself  visit  them  in  their 
mountain  camp,  and  see  that  every  person  is  brought  out.  Mr.  Greenwood 
was  three  days  behind  Mr.  Reed,  with  the  horses.  Captain  Kern  will  remain 
in  camp,  with  the  Indian  soldiers,  to  guard  the  provisions  and  horses,  and 
will  send  the  sufferers  down  to  this  post  as  soon  as  possible,  where  they  will 
be  received  by  Captain  J.  A.  Sutter  with  all  the  hospitality  for  which  he  is 
80  celebrated.  And  in  the  mean  time  Captain  Sutter  will  keep  up  a  com- 
munication with  Captain  Kern's  camp,  so  as  to  be  in  readiness  to  assist  him 
on  all  occasions.  Mr.  Glover  informed  me  that  the  wagons  belonging  to  the 
emigrants  are  buried  some  fifteen  feet  under  the  snow  He  thinks  that  it 
will  be  some  three  weeks  from  this  date  before  Lieutenant  Woodvvorth  can 
arrive  al  this  fort.  Mr.  Glover  left  the  party  at  Bear  River  Valley  on  express, 
as  I  had  written  to  him,  by  the  second  party,  of  the  death  of  one  member 
of  his  family,  and  the  severe  illness  of  his  wife.  The  balance  of  the  party 
will  reach  here  in  some  four  or  five  days.  The  weather  is  very  fine,  and 
we  have  no  doubt  but  that  Lieutenant  VVoodworth  will  be  able  to  bring  all 
left  on  the  monntains. 


Copy  of  a  Journal  kept  hy  a  suffering  Emigrant  on  the  California 
mouidains,  from  Oct.  Zlst,  1846,  to  March  \st,  1847. 

Trdoskk  Lake,  Nov.  20,  1846. — Came  to  this  place  on  the  3 1st  of  last 
month ;  went  into  the  I'am,  the  snow  bo  deep  we  were  unable  to  find  the 
totA,  aad  when  within  throe  miles  from  the  summit,  turned   back   to  \iua 


JOURNAL  OF    •,    SUFFERER.  257 

■hanty  on  Truckee  Lake.  Stanton  came  up  one  day  after  we  ai rived 
here  ;  we  again  took  our  teams  and  wagons  and  made  another  unsuccessful 
attempt  to  cross  in  company  with  Stanton  ;  we  returned  to  the  shanty,  it 
continuing  to  snow  all  the  time.  We  now  have  killed  most  part  of  our  cat- 
tle, having  to  remain  here  until  next  spring,  and  live  on  lean  beef  without 
bread  or  salt.  It  snowed  during  the  space  of  eight  days  with  little  inter- 
mission, after  our  arrival  here,  though  now  clear  and  pleasant,  freezing  at 
night,  the  snow  nearly  gone  from  the  valleys. — 21.  Fine  morning,  wind 
N.  w. ;  twenty-two  of  our  company  about  starting  to  cross  the  mountains 
this  day,  including  Stanton  and  his  Indians. — 22.  Froze  hard  last  night ; 
fine  and  clear  lo-day  ;  no  account  from  those  on  the  mountains. — 23. 
Same  weather,  wind  w.  ;  the  expedition  across  the  mountains  returned  af- 
ter an  unsuccessful  attempt. — 25.  Cloudy,  looks  like  the  eve  of  a  snow- 
storm ;  our  mountaineers  are  to  make  another  trial  to-morrow,  if  fair ; — 
froze  hard  last  night. — 26.  Began  to  snow  last  evening,  now  rains  or  sleets  ; 
the  party  does  not  start  to-day. — 29.  Still  snowing,  now  about  three  feet 
deep ;  wind  w.  ;  killed  my  last  oxen  to-day  ;  gave  another  yoke  to  Foster  ;• 
wood  hard  to  be  got. — 30.  Snowing  fast,  looks  as  likely  to  continue  as  when 
it  commenced  ;  no  living  thing  without  wings  can  get  about. 

Dec.  1. — Still  snowing,  wind  w. ;  snow  about  six  or  six  and  a  half  feet 
deep  ;  very  difficult  to  get  wood,  and  we  are  completely  housed  up ;  our 
cattle  all  killed  but  two  or  three,  and  these,  with  the  horses  and  Stanton's 
mules,  all  supposed  to  be  lost  in  the  snow  ;  no  hopes  of  finding  them  alive. 
— 3.  Ceased  snowing ;  cloudy  all  day  ;  warm  enough  to  thaw. — 5.  Beauti- 
ful sunshine,  thawing  a  little  ;  looks  delightful  after  the  long  storm  ;  snow 
seven  or  eight  feet  deep. — 6.  The  morning  fine  and  clear ;  Stanton  and 
Graves  manufacturing  snow-shoes  for  another  mountain  scrabble  ;  no  ac- 
count of  mules. — 8.  Fine  weather,  froze  hard  last  night ;  wind  s.  w. ;  hard 
work  to  find  wood  sufficient  to  keep  us  warm  or  cook  our  beef. — 9.  Com- 
menced snowing  about  11  o'clock,  wind  n.  w.  ;  took  in  Spitzer  yesterday  so 
weak,  that  he  cannot  rise  without  help,  caused  by  starvation.  Some  have 
a  scant  supply  of  beef;  Stanton  trying  to  get  some  for  himself  and  Indians; 
not  likely  to  get  much. — 10.  Snowed  fast  all  night  with  heavy  squalls  of 
wind  ;  continues  to  snow,  now  about  seven  feet  in  depth. — 13.  Snows  faster 
than  any  previous  day  ;  Stanton  and  Graves,  with  several  others,  making 
preparations  to  cross  the  mountains  on  snow-shoes.  Snow  eight  feet  deep  on 
a  level. — 16.  Fair  and  pleasant,  froze  hard  last  night ;  the  company  started 
on  snow-shoes  to  cross  the  mountains,  wind  s.  e. — 17.  Pleasant.  Wm.  Mur- 
phy returned  from  the  mountain  party  last  evening ;  Balis  Williams  died 
night  before  last  ;  Milton  and  Noah  started  for  Donner's  eight  days  ago  ; 
not  returned  yet ;  think  they  are  lost  in  the  snow. — 19.  Snowed  last  night, 
thawuig  to-day,  wind  n.  w.  ;  a  little  singular  for  a  thaw. — 20.  Clear  and 
pleasant;  Mrs.  Reed  here;  no  account  from  Milton  yet;  Charles  Bergei 
set  out  for  Dounei  a ;  turned  back,  unable  to  proceed  ;  tough  times,  but  not 
22* 


258  JOURNAL  OF  A   SUFFERER. 

discouraged  ;  our  hopes  are  iu  God,  Amen. — 21.  Milton  got  back  last  night 
from  Donner's  camp  ;  sad  news,  Jacob  DoDuer,  Samuel  Shoemaker,  Rhine- 
hart,  and  Smith,  are  dead  the  rest  of  them  iu  a  low  situation ;  snowed  all 
night  with  a  strong  s.  w.  wind. — 23.  Clear  to-day  ;  Milton  took  some  of  his 
meat  away  ;  all  well  at  their  camp.  Began  this  day  to  read  the  "  Thirty 
days'  prayers."  Almighty  God  grant  the  requests  of  unsrorthy  sinners  I — 
24.  Rained  all  night  and  still  continues  ;  poor  prospect  for  any  kind  of  com- 
fort, spiritual  or  temporal. — 25.  Began  to  snow  yesterday,  snowed  all  night, 
and  snows  yet  rapidly  ;  extremely  difficult  to  find  wood  ;  offered  our  pray- 
ers to  God  this  Christmas  moniing  ;  the  prospect  is  appalling,  but  we  trust  iu 
Him. — 27.  Cleared  off  yesterday,  continues  clear,  snow  nine  feet  deep  ; 
wood  growing  scarce  ;  a  tree  when  felled  sinks  into  the  snow  and  hard  to  be 
got  at. — 30.  Fine  clear  morning,  froze  hard  last  night ;  Charles  Berger 
died  last  evening  about  10  o'clock. — 31.  Last  of  the  year  ;  may  we,  with 
the  help  of  God,  spend  the  coming  year  better  than  we  have  the  past,  which 
we  propose  to  do  if  it  is  the  will  of  the  Alirighty  to  deliver  us  from  our  pre- 
sent dreadful  situation,  Amen.  Morning  fair  but  cloudy,  wind  e.  by  8. ; 
looks  like  another  snow-storm — snow-storms  are  dreadful  to  us  ;  the  snow  at 
present  very  deep. 

Jan.  1,  1847. — We  pray  the  God  of  mercy  to  deliver  us  from  our  present 
calamity,  if  it  be  His  holy  will.  Commenced  snowing  last  night  and  snows 
a  little  yet ;  provisions  getting  very  scant ;  dug  up  a  hide  from  under  ths 
snow  yesterday — have  not  commenced  on  it  yet. — 3.  Fair  during  the  day, 
freezing  at  night ;  Mrs.  Reed  talks  of  crossing  the  mountains  with  her  chil- 
dren.— 4.  Fine  morning,  looks  like  spring  ;  Mrs.  Reed  and  Virginia,  Mil- 
ton Elliot,  and  Eliza  Williams,  started  a  short  time  ago  with  the  hope  of 
crossing  the  mountains  ;  left  the  children  here — it  was  difficult  for  Mrs. 
Reed  to  part  with  them. — G.  Eliza  came  back  from  the  mountains  yester- 
day evening,  not  able  to  proceed,  the  others  kept  abend. — 8.  Very  cold  this 
morning  ;  Mrs.  Reed  and  the  others  came  back  ;  could  not  find  the  way  on 
the  other  side  of  the  mountains  ;  they  have  nothing  but  hides  to  live  on. — 
10.  Began  to  snow  last  night,  still  continues  ;  wind  w.  n.  w. — 13.  Snowing 
fast — snow  higher  than  the  shanty  ;  it  must  be  13  feet  deep;  cannot  get 
wood  this  morning ;  it  is  a  dreadful  sight  for  us  to  look  upon. — 14.  Cleared 
off  yesterday  ;  the  sun  shining  brilliantly  renovates  our  spirits,  praises  be  to 
(ho  God  of  heaven. — 15.  Clear  day  again,  wind  n.  w.  ;  Mrs.  Murphy  blind  : 
Lantron  not  able  to  get  wood,  has  but  one  axe  between  him  aud  Keysburg; 
it  looks  like  another  storm — expecting  some  account  from  Sutter's  soon. — 
17.  Eliza  WilliaruH  came  here  this  morning;  Lantroti  crazy  last  night; 
provisions  scarce,  Iiidcs  our  main  subsistence.  May  the  .\luiigl)ty  send  us 
help. — 21.  Fine  morning;  Johr  Battise  and  Mr  Denton  came  this  morn- 
ing with  Eliza  ;  she  will  not  ea<  hides.     Mrs. sent  her  hack  to  live  or 

die  on  them. — 22.  Began  to  snow  after  sunrise  ;  likely  to  continue  ;  wind 
y^. — 23.  Blow  hard  aud  snowed  all   night,  the  most  severe  storm  we  have 


JOURNAL  OP  A  SUFFEKER.  S69 

experienced  this  winter ;  wind  w. — 26.  Cleared  up  yesterday  ;  to-day  fine 
and  pleasant,  wind  s. ;  in  hopes  we  are  done  with  snow-storms ;  those  who 
went  to  Sutter's  not  yet  returned  ;  provisions  getting  scant ;  people  growing 
weak  living  on  small  allowance  of  hides. — 27.  Commenced  snowing  yes- 
terday ;  still  continues  to-day ;  Lewis  (Sutter's  Indian)  died  three  days  ago; 
wood  getting  scarce  ;  don't  have  fire  enough  to  cook  our  hides. — 30.  Fair 
and  pleasant,  wind  w.,  thawing  in  the  sun ;  John  and  Edward  Breen  went 

to   Graves'  this  morning  ;  the seized  on   Mrs. goods,   until 

they  should  he  paid  ;  ttiey  also  took  the  hides  which  she  and  her  family  sub- 
sisted upon.  She  regained  two  pieces  only,  the  balance  they  have  taken. 
You  may  judge  from  this  what  our  fare  is  in  camp ;  there  is  nothing  to  be 
had  by  hunting,  yet  perhaps  there  soon  will  be. — 31.  The  sun  does  not 
shine  out  brilliant  this  morning ;  froze  hard  last  night,  wind  N.  w.  Lantron 
Murphy  died  last  night  about  1  o'clock.  Mrs.  Reed  went  to  Graves'  this 
morning  to  look  after  goods. 

February  5. — Snowed  hard  until  two  o'clock  last  night ;  many  uneasy 
for  fear  we  shall  all  perish  with  hunger  ;  we  have  but  a  little  meat  left  and 
only  three  hides  ;  Mrs.  Reed  has  nothing  but  one  hide  and  that  is  on  Graves' 
house  ;  Milton  lives  there  and  likely  will  keep  that — Eddy's  child  died  last 
night. — 6.  It  snowed  faster  last  niglit  and  to-day  than  it  has  done  this  win- 
ter before,  still  continues  without  intermission,  wind  s.  w. ;  Murphy's  folks 
and  Keysburg  say  they  cannot  oat  hides;  I  wish  we  had  enough  of  them. 
Mrs.  Eddy  is  very  weak. — 7.  Ceased  to  snow  at  last,  to-day  it  is  quite 
•»leasant.  McCutcheon's  child  died  on  the  second  of  this  month. — 8.  Fine 
clear  morning,  Spitzer  died  last  night,  we  shall  bury  him  in  the  snow.  Mrs. 
Eddy  died  on  the  night  of  the  seventh. — 9.  Mr.  Pike's  child  all  but  dead. 
Milton  is  at  Murphy's  notable  to  get  out  of  bed  ;  Koy.sburg  never  gets  up, 
says  he  is  not  able.  Mrs.  Eddy  and  child  were  buried  to-day,  wind  s.  e. — 10. 
Beautiful  morning,  thawing  in  the  sun.  Milton  Elliot  died  last  night  at 
Murphy's  shanty.  Mrs.  Reed  went  there  this  morning  to  see  after  his  ef- 
fects. J.  Denton  trying  to  borrow  meat  for  Graves  ;  had  none  to  give  ;  they 
had  nothing  but  hides.  All  are  entirely  out  of  meat  but  a  little  we  have.  Our 
hides  are  nearly  all  eat  up,  but  with  God's  help  spring  will  soon  smile  upon 
us. — 12.  Warm,  thawing  morning. — 14.  Fine  morning,  but  cold  ;  buried  Mil- 
ton in  the  snow.     John  Denton  not  well. — 15.  Morning  cloudy  until  nine 

o'clock,  then  cleared  off  warm.     Mrs. refused  to  give  Mrs. 

any  hides  ;  put  Sutter's  pack-hides  on  her  shanty  and  would  not  let  her 
have  them. — IG.  Commenced  to  rain  last  evening  and  turned  to  snow  du- 
ring the  night  and  continued  until  morning  ;  weather  changeable,  sunshine 
then  light  shower^  of  hail  and  wind  at  times.  We  all  feel  very  unwell  ;  the 
snow  is  not  getting  much  less  at  present. — 19.  Froze  hard  last  night,  seven 
men  arrived  from  California  yesterday  evening  with  provisions,  but  left 
the  greater  part  on  the  way  ;  to-day  it  \s  clear  and  warm  for  this  region 
Smss  of  the  men  haye  gone  to  Doaner's  camp }  they  will  start  iwck  oa 


260  JOURNAL  OF  A  SUFFERER. 

Monday. — 22.  The  Californians  started  this  morning,  twenty-four  in  nam* 
her,  some  in  a  very  weak  state.  Mrs.  Keysburg  started  with  them  and  left 
Keysburg  here  unable  to  go  ;  buried  Pike's  child  this  morning  irj  the  snow, 
it  died  two  days  ago. — 23.  Froze  hard  last  night,  to-day  pleasant  and  thawy  ; 
has  the  appearance  of  epring,  all  but  the  deep  snow  ;  wind  s.  s.  e.  ;  shot  a  dog 
to-day  and  dressed  his  flesh. — 25.  To-day  Mrs.  Murphy  says  the  wolves 
are  about  to  dig  up  the  dead  bodies  around  her  shanty,  and  the  nights  are 
too  cold  to  watch  them,  but  we  hear  them  howl. — 26.  Hungiy  times  in 
camp  ;  plenty  of  hides,  but  the  folks  will  not  eat  them  ;  we  eat  them  with 
tolerable  good  appetite,  thanks  be  to  the  Almighty  God.  Mrs.  Murphy  said 
here  yesterday  that  she  thought  she  would  commence  on  Milton  and  eat 
him  ;  I  do  not  think  she  has  doue  so  yet — it  is  distressing  ;  the  Donuer's  told 
the  California  folks  four  days  ago  that  they  would  commence  on  the  dead 
people  if  they  did  not  succeed  that  day  or  next  in  finding  their  cattle,  then 
ten  or  twelve  feet  under  the  snow,  and  did  not  know  the  spot  or  near  it ; 
they  have  done  it  ere  this. — 28.  One  solitary  Indian  passed  by  yesterday, 
came  from  the  Lake,  had  a  heavy  pack  on  his  back,  gave  me  five  or  six 
roots  resembling  onions  in  shape,  tasted  some  like  a  sweet  potato  full  of 
tough  little  fibres. 

March  1.  Ten  men  arrived  this  morning  from  Bear  Valley  with  provi 
■ions;  we  are  to  start  in  two  or  three  days  and  shall  cache  our  goods  here 
They  say  the  snow  will  remain  imtil  June 


The  above  mentioned  ten  men  started  for  the  valley  with  seventeen  of 
the  sufferers  ;  they  travelled  fifteen  miles  and  a  severe  snow-storm  came  on  ; 
they  left  fourteen  of  the  emigrants,  the  writer  of  the  above  journal  and  his 
family,  and  succeeded  in  getting  in  but  three  children.  Lieut.  Woodworth 
immediately  went  to  their  assistance,  but  before  he  reached  them  they  had 
eaten  three  of  their  number,  who  had  died  from  hunger  and  fatigue;  the 
remainder  Lieut.  Woodworth's  party  brought  in.  On  the  29th  of  April, 
1847,  the  last  member  of  that  party  was  brought  to  Capt.  Sutter's  Fort:  it 
is  utterly  impossible  to  give  any  description  of  the  sutferings  of  the  company 
Your  readers  can  form  some  idea  of  them  by  perusing  the  above  diary. 

Yours,  &c. 

George  McKinstrt,  Jr. 

Fort  Sacramento,  April  29,  1847 

Samea  of  the  late  Emigration  from  the  United  States,  who  voerefre' 
vented  by  the  sniw  from  crossing  the  California  mountains,  October 
3l8t,  1846 

<JIRIVED    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

William  Graves,  Sarah  Fosdick,  Mary  Graves,  Ellen  Graves,  Viney 
t^ravea,  Nancy  Graves,  Jonathan  Graves,  Elizabeth  Graves,  Loithy  Don 


MR.  FALLON  S  STATEMENT.  861 

ner,  Lean  Donner,  Francis  Donner,  Georgiana  Donner,  Eliza  Donner,  John 
Battiste,  Solomon  Hook,  George  Donner,  Jr.,  Mary  Donner,  Mrs.  Wool- 
finger,  Levels  Keysburg,  Mrs.  Keysburg,  William  Foster,  Sarah  Foster,  Si- 
mon Murphy,  Mary  Murphy,  Harriet  Pike,  Miomin  Pike,  Wm.  Eddy, 
Patrick  Breeu,  Margaret  Breeu,  John  Breen,  Edward  Breen,  Patrick 
Breeu,  Jr.,  Simou  Breen,  James  Breeu,  Peter  Breen,  Isabella  Breen,  Eliza 
Williams,  James  F.  Reed,  Mrs.  Reed,  Virginia  Reed,  Martha  Reed,  Jame« 
Reed,  Thomas  Reed,  Noah  James. 

PERISHED    IN    THE    MOUNTAINS. 

G.  T.  Stanton,  Mr.  Graves,  Mrs.  Graves,  Mr.  J.  Fosdick,  Franklin 
Graves,  John  Denton,  Geo.  Donner,  Sen.,  Mrs.  Donner,  Charles  Berger, 
Joseph  Rhinehart,  Jacob  Donner,  Betsey  Donner,  Wm.  Johnson,  Isaac 
Donner,  Lewis  Donner,  Samuel  Donner,  Samuel  Shoemaker,  James  Smith, 
Balis  Williams,  Bertha  Keysburg,  (child,)  Lewis  Keysburg,  Mrs.  Murphy, 
Lemuel  Murphy,  George  Foster,  Catharine  Pike,  Ellen  Eddy,  Margaret 
Eddy,  James  Eddy,  Patrick  Dolan,  Augustus  Spitzer,  Milton  Elliot,  Lan- 
tron  Murphy,  Mr.  Pike,  Antonio,  (New  Mexican,)  Lewis,  (Sutter's  In- 
dian,) Salvadore,  do. 


At  the  time  the  occurrences  above  related  took  place,  I 
was  marching  with  the  California  battalion,  under  the  command 
of  Col.  Fremont,  to  Ciudad  de  los  Angelos,  to  assist  in  sup- 
pressing a  rebelUon  which  had  its  origin  in  that  quarter.  After 
my  return  from  that  expedition,  I  saw  and  conversed  with 
several  of  the  survivors  in  the  above  list.  The  oral  statements 
made  to  me  by  them  in  regard  to  their  sufferings,  far  exceed  ia 
horror  the  descriptions  given  m  the  extracts.  Mr.  Fallon,  who 
conducted  the  last  relief  party  over  the  momitains,  made  a 
statement,  in  regard  to  what  he  saw  upon  his  arrival  at  the 
•••  cabins,"  so  revolting  that  I  hesitate  before  alluding  to  it.  The 
parties  which  had  preceded  him  had  brought  into  the  settle- 
ments all  the  living  sufferers  except  three.     These  were  Mr. 

and  Mrs.  George  Donner,  and Keysburg.     At  the  time 

the  others  left,  Mr.  George  Donner  was  unable  to  travel  from 
debility,  and  Mrs.  D.  refused  to  leave  him.  Why  Keysburg 
remained,  there  is  no  satisfactory  explanation.  Mrs.  Donner 
offered  a  reward  of  five  hundred  dollars  to  any  party  that  would 
return  and  rescue  them.  I  knew  the  Douuers  well.  Their 
meiws  in  money  and  merchandise,  which  they  had  brought  with 


062  MR    Fallon's    statement 

them,  were  abundant.  Mr.  Donner  was  a  man  ol  about  sixty 
and  was  at  the  time  of  his  lea\'ing  the  United  States  a  highly 
respectable  citizen  of  Illinois — a  farmer  of  independent  circiun- 
stances.  Mrs.  D.  was  considerably  younger  than  her  husband, 
and  an  active,  energetic  woman  of  refined  aducation. 

Mr.  Fallon  and  his  party  reached  the  "  cabins"  some  time  in 
April.  The  snow  in  the  valley,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Pass, 
had  melted  so  as  in  spots  to  expose  the  ground.  He  foimd  the 
main  cabin  empty,  but  endences  that  it  had  not  been  long  de- 
serted. He  and  his  party  commenced  a  search,  and  soon 
discovered  fresh  tracks  in  the  snow  leading  from  it.  These 
they  followed  some  miles,  and  by  pursuing  them  they  returned 
again  to  the  cabin.  Here  they  now  found  Keysburg,  He  was 
reclining  upon  the  floor  of  the  cabin,  smoking  his  pipe.  Near 
his  head  a  fire  was  blazing,  upon  which  was  a  camp  kettle  fiUed 
with  human  flesh.  His  feet  were  resting  upoD  skulls  and  dis- 
located limbs  denuded  of  their  flesh.  A  bucket  partly  filled 
with  blood  was  standing  near,  and  pieces  of  human  flesh,  fresh 
and  bloody,  were  strewn  around.  The  appearance  of  Key.s- 
burg  was  haggard  and  revolting.  His  beard  was  of  great 
.ength  ;  his  finger-nails  had  grown  out  until  they  resembled  the 
claws  of  beasts.  He  was  ragged  and  filthy,  and  the  expression 
of  his  countenance  ferocious.  He  stated  that  the  Donnerswere 
both  dead.  That  Mrs.  Donner  was  the  last  to  die,  and  had  ex- 
pired some  two  days  previously.  That  she  had  left  her 
husband's  camp,  some  eight  miles  distant,  and  came  to  this 
cabin.  She  attempted  to  return  in  the  evening  to  the  camp, 
but  becoming  bewildered  she  came  back  to  the  cabin,  and  died 
in  the  course  of  the  niffht.  He  was  accused  of  having:  mur- 
dered  her,  for  her  flesh  and  the  money  the  Donners  were  known 
to  possess,  but  denied  it.  When  questioned  in  regard  to  the 
money  of  the  Donners,  he  denied  all  knowledge  respecting  it. 
He  was  infoimed  that  if  he  did  not  disclose  where  he  had 
secreted  the  money,  he  would  immediately  be  hung  to  a  tree. 
Still  persisting  in  liis  denial,  a  rope,  after  much  resistance  from 
him,  was  placed  around  his  neck,  and  Mr.  Fallon  commenced 
drawing  him  up  to  the  limb  of  a  tree,  when  he  stated  that  if 


BURIAL    OF    THE    REMAINS.  263 

they  would  desist  from  this  summary  execution,  he  would  dis- 
close all  he  knew  about  the  money.  Being  released,  he  pro- 
duced $5lV  in  gold.  He  was  then  notified  that  he  must 
f.ccompany  the  party  to  the  settlements.  To  this  he  was  disin- 
clined, and  he  did  not  consent  until  the  order  was  so  peremptory 
that  he  was  compelled  to  obey  it.  The  body  of  George 
Donner  was  found  dead  in  his  tent.  He  had  been  carefully 
laid  out  by  his  wife,  and  a  sheet  was  wrapped  around  the 
corpse.  This  sad  office  was  probably  the  last  act  she  performed 
before  visiting  the  cabin  of  Keysburg,  This  is  briefly  a  state- 
ment of  particulars  as  detailed  to  me  by  Mr.  Fallon,  who 
accompanied  Gen.  Kearny  on  his  return  to  the  United  States 
in  the  capacity  of  guide. 

When  the  return  party  of  Gen.  Kearny  (which  I  accompa- 
nied) reached  the  scene  of  these  horrible  and  tragical  occur- 
rences, on  the  22d  of  June,  1847,  a  halt  was  ordered,  for  the 
purpose  of  collecting  and  interring  the  remains.  Near  the 
principal  cabins,  I  saw  two  bodies,  entire  with  the  exception 
that  the  abdomens  had  been  cut  open  and  the  entrails  extracted. 
Their  flesh  had  been  either  wasted  by  famine  or  evaporated  by 
exposure  to  the  dry  atmosphere,  and  they  presented  the  ap- 
pearance of  mummies.  Strewn  around  the  cabins  were  dislo- 
cated and  broken  bones — skulls,  (in  some  instances  sawed 
asunder  with  care  for  the  purpose  of  extracting  the  brains,) — 
human  skeletons,  in  short,  in  every  variety  of  mutilation.  A 
more  revolting  and  appalling  spectacle  I  never  witnessed.  The 
remains  were,  by  an  order  of  Gen.  Kearny,  collected  and  bu- 
ried under  the  superintendence  of  Major  Swords.  They  were 
interred  in  a  pit  which  had  been  dug  in  the  centre  of  one  of  the 
cabms  for  a  cache.  These  melancholy  duties  to  the  dead  being 
performed,  the  cabins,  by  order  of  Major  Swords,  were  fired, 
and  with  every  thing  surrounding  them  connected  with  this 
horrid  and  melancholy  tragedy,  were  consumed.  The  body  of 
George  Donner  was  found  at  his  camp,  about  eight  or  ten  miles 
distant,  wrapped  in  a  sheet.  He  was  buried  by  a  party  of  men 
detailed  for  that  purpose. 

I  subjoin  the  following  description  of  the  sufferings  of  thoM 


264  SUFFE&XN6S,  ETC. 

unfortunate  emigrants,  ana  the  horrid  and  revolting  extremitiea 
to  which  some  of  them  were  reduced  to  sustain  life,  from  the 
"  CaUfornia  Star"  of  April  10th,  1847  :-  - 

"  A  more  shocking  scene  cannot  be  imagined,  than  that  wit- 
nessed by  the  party  of  men  who  went  to  the  reUef  of  the  un- 
fortunate emigrants  in  the  Cahfornia  mountains.  The  bones  of 
those  who  had  died  and  been  devoured  by  the  miserable  ones 
that  still  survived,  were  lying  around  their  tents  and  cabins. 
Bodies  of  men,  women,  and  children,  with  half  the  flesh  torn 
from  them,  lay  on  every  side.  A  woman  sat  by  the  side  of  the 
body  of  her  husband,  who  had  just  died,  cutting  out  his  tongue 
the  heart  she  had  already  taken  out,  broiled,  and  ate !  The 
daughter  was  seen  eating  the  flesh  of  the  father — the  mother 
that  of  her  children — children  that  of  father  and  mother.  The 
emaciated,  wild,  and  ghastly  appearance  of  the  survivors  added 
to  the  horror  of  the  scene.  Language  cannot  describe  the  aw- 
ful change  that  a  few  weeks  of  dire  sufl"ering  had  wrought  in 
the  minds  of  these  wretched  and  pitiable  beings.  Those  who 
but  one  month  before  would  have  shuddered  and  sickened  at 
the  thought  of  eating  human  flesh,  or  of  killing  their  compan- 
ions and  relatives  to  preserve  their  own  lives,  now  looked  upon 
the  opportunity  these  acts  afforded  them  of  escaping  the  most 
dreadful  of  deaths,  as  a  providential  interference  in  their  behalf. 
Calculations  were  coldly  made,  as  they  sat  aroimd  their  gloomy 
camp-fires,  for  the  next  and  succeeding  meals.  Various  expe- 
dients were  devised  to  prevent  the  dreadful  crime  of  murder, 
but  they  finally  resolved  to  kill  those  who  had  the  least  claims 
to  longer  existence.  Just  at  this  moment,  however,  as  if  by 
Divine  interposition,  some  of  them  died,  which  afforded  the 
rest  tempoiary  lelief.  Some  sunk  into  tlie  arms  of  death  cursing 
God  for  their  miserable  fate,  while  the  last  whisperings  of  others 
were  prayers  and  songs  of  praise  to  the  Almighty. 

"  After  the  first  few  deaths,  but  the  one  all-absorbing  thought 
of  individual  self-i)reservation  prevailed.  The  fountains  of  natu- 
ral afrcction  were  dried  up.  The  cords  that  once  vibrated  with 
connubial,  parental,  and  filial  affection,  were  rent  asunder,  and 
each  one  seemed  resolved,  without  regard  to  the  fate  of  others, 


INDIAN    FISHERMEN  865 

to  escape  from  the  impending  calamity.  Even  the  wild,  hostile 
mountain  Indians,  who  once  visited  their  camps,  pitiec  them, 
and  instead  of  piirsuing  the  natural  impulse  of  their  hostile 
feelings  to  the  whites,  and  destroying  them,  as  they  ccidd 
easily  have  done,  divided  their  own  scanty  supply  of  food  \\ith 
them. 

"  So  changed  had  the  emigrants  become,  that  when  the 
party  sent  out  arrived  with  food,  some  of  them  cast  it  asiae, 
and  seemed  to  prefer  the  putrid  human  flesh  that  still  remained. 
The  day  before  the  party  arrived,  one  of  the  emigrants  took  a 
child  of  about  four  years  of  age  in  bed  with  him,  and  devoured 
the  whole  before  morning ;  and  the  next  day  ate  another  about 
the  same  age  before  noon." 


CHAPTER    XXI. 

California  Indians — Captain  Sutter — Difficulties  in  making  his  first  settle- 
ment in  California — Laboring  Indians — Propensity  for  gambling — Cap- 
tain Sutter's  coin — Account  of  their  games — Food  of  tlie  Indians — Cap- 
tain Sutter's  wheat  crops  in  1846 — Scarcity  of  flouriug-miUs — Water- 
p^wer — Hemp — Dine  with  Captain  Sutter  ;  description  of  the  dinner — 
Oppressive  impost-duties  of  the  Mexican  government — Indian  rancheriEis 
—Indian  orgies — Sacramento  river — Salmon — New  Helvetia — Indian 
sweat-house — Reported  Indian  invasion  by  the  Walla- Wallas — Descrip- 
tion of  the  Walla- Wallas 

Sept.  3. — We  remained  encamped  near  Sutter's  Fort,  or  Fori 
Sacramento,  as  subsequently  it  has  been  named.  This  morn- 
ing we  were  visited  by  numerous  Indians  from  the  neighboring 
^ancherias,  who  brought  with  them  watermelons,  muskmelons, 
and  strings  of  pan-fish,  taken  from  a  small  pond  about  half  a  mile 
distant,  with  a  sort  of  hand-trap.  The  Indians  wade  into  the 
pond  with  their  traps  in  hand,  and  take  with  them  the  fish, 
sometimes  by  dozens  at  a  haul.  These  they  wished  to  trade 
for  such  small  articles  as  we  possessed,  and  the  cast-off  clothing 
of  the  members  of  our  party.     Some  of  these  Indians  were 

23 


166  AH  INTITATION — CAPTAIN  SUTTBE. 

partiall}'  clothed,  others  were  entirely  naked,  and  a  portion  of 
them  spoke  the  Spanish  language.  They  exhibited  consider- 
able sharpness  in  making  a  bargain,  holding  their  wares  at  a 
.  high  valuation,  and  although  their  desire  to  trade  appeared  to 
be  strong,  they  would  make  no  sacrifices  to  obtain  the  articles 
offered  in  exchange  for  them.  But  such  was  the  desire  of  our 
men  to  obtain  vegetables,  of  which  they  had  been  for  so  long  a 
time  deprived,  that  there  was  scarcely  any  article  which  they 
possessed,  which  they  would  refuse  to  barter  for  them. 

The  Indians  generally  are  well  made  and  of  good  stature, 
varying  from  five  feet  four  inches  to  five  feet  ten  and  eleven 
inches  in  height,  with  strong  muscular  developments.  Theix 
hair  is  long,  black,  and  coarse,  and  their  skin  is  a  shade  lighter 
than  that  of  a  mulatto.  They  appear  to  be  indolent  and  averse 
from  labor  of  every  kind,  unless  combined  with  their  sports  and 
amusements,  when  they  are  as  reckless  of  fatigue  and  danger  as 
any  class  of  men  I  have  seen. 

By  in%'itation  of  Captain  Sutter,  addressed  to  myself  and  Mr. 
Jacob,  we  visited  and  dined  at  the  fort.  The  fort  is  situated 
near  the  confluence  of  the  Rio  de  los  Americanos  and  the  Rio 
Sacramento.  The  valley  of  the  Sacramento  is  here  of  great 
width,  and  consequently  the  foi  1,  is  surrounded  by  an  extensive 
plain,  bounded  by  distant  mountains  on  the  east  and  on  the 
west.  This  plain  exhibits  every  evidence  of  a  most  fertile  soil. 
The  gi-asses,  although  they  are  now  brown  and  crisp  from  the 
peiiodical  drought,  still  stand  with  their  ripened  seeds  upon 
them,  showing  their  natui-al  luxuriance.  Groves  or  parks  of 
the  evergreen  oak  relieve  the  monotony  of  the  landscape,  and 
dot  the  level  plain  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach. 

Captain  Sutter  received  us  with  manifestations  of  cordial 
hospitality.  He  is  a  gentleman  between  forty-five  and  fifty 
years  of  age,  and  in  manners,  dress,  and  general  deportment, 
he  approaches  so  near  what  we  call  the  "  old  school  gentle- 
man," as  to  present  a  gulfy  contrast  from  the  rude  society  by 
which  he  is  surrounded.  Captain  Sutter  is  a  native  of  Switzer- 
hmd,  and  was  at  one  time  an  officer  in  the  French  array.  He 
emigrated  to  the  United   States,  and  was  naturalized      From 


Sutter's  fort.  267 

thence,  after  a,  series  of  most  extraordinary  and  romantic  inci- 
dents, to  relate  which  would  furnish  matter  for  a  volume,  he 
planted  himself  on  the  spot  where  his  fort  now  stands,  then  a 
savage  wilderness,  and  in  the  midst  of  numerous  and  hostile 
tribes  of  Indians.  With  the  small  party  of  men  which  he 
originally  brought  with  him,  he  succeeded  m  defending  himself 
against  the  Indians,  until  he  constructed  his  first  defensive 
building.  He  told  me,  that  several  times,  being  hemmed  in  by 
his  assailants,  he  had  subsisted  for  many  days  upon  grass  alone. 
There  is  a  grass  in  this  valley  which  the  Indians  eat,  that  is 
pleasant  to  the  taste  and  nutritious.  He  succeeded  by  degrees 
in  reducing  the  Indians  to  obedience,  and  by  means  of  their 
labor  erected  the  spacious  fortification  which  now  belongs  to 
him. 

The  fort  is  a  parallelogram,  about  five  himdred  feet  in  lengt" 
and  one  himdred  and  fifty  in  breadth.  The  walls  are  con 
fetructed  of  adobes,  or  sim-dried  bricks.  The  main  building,  oi 
residence,  stands  near  the  centre  of  the  area,  or  com't,  enclosed 
by  the  walls.  A  row  of  shops,  store-rooms,  and  barracks,  are 
enclosed  within,  and  line  the  walls  on  every  side.  Bastions 
project  from  the  angles,  the  ordnance  mounted  in  which  sweep 
the  walls.  The  principal  gates  on  the  east  and  the  south  are 
also  defended  by  heavy  artillery,  through  portholes  pierced  in 
>he  walls.  At  this  time  the  fort  is  manned  by  about  fifty  well- 
discipHned  Indians,  and  ten  or  twelve  white  men,  all  imder  the 
pay  of  the  United  States.  These  Indians  are  well  clothed  and 
fed.  The  garrison  is  xmder  the  command  of  Mr.  Kern,  the 
artist  of  Captain  Fremont's  exploring  expedition. 

The  number  of  laboiing  Indians  employed  by  Captain  Suttei 
dming  the  seasons  of  sowing  and  hai-vest,  is  from  two  to  three 
hundred.  Some  of  these  are  clothed  in  shirts  and  blankets, 
but  a  large  portion  of  them  are  entirely  naked.  They  are  paid 
80  much  per  day  for  their  labor,  in  such  articles  of  merchan- 
dise as  they  may  select  from  the  store.  Cotton  cloth  and 
handkerchiefs  are  what  they  most  freely  puj"chase.  Common 
brown  cotton  cloth  sells  at  one  dollar  per  yard.  A  tin  coin 
issued  by  Captain  Sutter  cii-culates  among  them,  upon  which  is 


aSB  INDIAN  GAMBLING. 

stamped  the  nmnber  of  days  that  tlie  holder  has  labored. 
ITiese  stamps  indicate  the  value  in  merchandise  to  which  the 
laborer  or  holder  is  entitled. 

They  are  inveterate  gamblers,  and  those  who  have  been  so 
fortunate  as  to  obtain  clothing,  frequently  stake  md  part  with 
every  rag  upon  their  backs.  The  game  which  they  most  gen 
eraUy  play  is  carried  on  as  follows.  Any  number  which  may 
be  concerned  in  it  seat  themselves  cross-legged  on  the 
ground,  in  a  circle.  They  are  then  divided  into  two  parties, 
each  of  which  has  two  champions  or  players.  A  ball,  or 
some  small  article,  is  placed  in  the  hands  of  the  players  on 
one  side,  which  they  transfer  from  hand  to  hand  with  such 
sleight  and  dexterity  that  it  is  nearly  impossible  to  detect  the 
changes.  When  the  players  holding  the  balls  make  a  particu- 
lar motion  with  their  hands,  the  antagonist  players  guess  in 
which  hand  the  balls  are  at  the  time.  If  the  guess  is  wrong  it 
coimts  one  in  favor  of  the  playing  party.  If  the  guess  is  right, 
then  it  counts  one  in  favor  of  the  guessing  party,  and  the  balls 
are  transferred  to  them.  The  count  of  tlie  game  is  kept  with 
sticks.  During  the  progress  of  the  game,  all  concerned  keep 
up  a  continual  monotonous  grunting,  with  a  movement  of  their 
bodies  to  keep  time  with  their  grunts.  The  articles  which  are 
staked  on  the  game  are  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  ring. 

The  laboring  or  field  Indians  about  the  fort  are  fed  upon  the 
offal  of  slaughtered  animals,  and  upon  the  bran  sifted  from  the 
ground  wheat.  This  is  boiled  in  large  iron  kettles.  It  is  then 
placed  in  wooden  troughs  standing  in  the  court,  around  which 
the  several  messes  seat  themselves  and  scoop  out  with  their 
hands  this  poor  fodder.  Bad  as  it  is,  they  eat  it  with  an  appa- 
rent high  reli.sh ;  and  no  doubt  it  is  more  palatable  and  more 
healtiiy  than  the  acorn,  mush,  or  atdle,  which  constitutes  the 
pnucipal  food  of  these  Indians  in  theii-  wild  state. 

'J'lie  wheat  crop  of  Captain  Sutter,  the  present  year,  (1846,) 
is  about  eifrht  thousand  bushels.  The  season  has  not  been  a 
favorable  one.  The  average  yield  to  the  acre  Captain  S.  esti- 
mates at  twenty-five  bushels.  In  favorable  seasons  this  yield 
iH  doubled  ;  and  if  we  car    oelicvt;   the.  statements  often  made 


.  WHEAT — HEMP,  ETC.  269 

apon  respectable  authority,  it  is  sometimes  q^uadrupled.  There 
is  no  doubt  that  in  favorable  seasons,  that  is  when  the  raina 
fall  abundantly  during  the  winter,  the  yield  of  wheat,  and  all 
small  grains  in  California,  is  much  greater  per  acre  of  land 
than  in  any  part  of  the  United  States.  The  wheat-fields  of 
Captain  8.  are  secured  against  the  cattle  and  horses  by  ditches. 
Agricultm-e,  among  the  native  Californians,  is  in  a  very  primi 
tive  state,  and  although  Captain  S.  has  introduced  some  Ameri- 
can implements,  still  his  ground  is  but  imperfectly  cultivated. 
With  good  cultivation  the  crops  would  be  more  certain  and 
much  more  abundant.  The  crop  from  the  same  ground  the 
second  and  third,  years,  without  sowing,  is  frequently  very 
good. 

Wheat  is  selling  at  the  fort  at  two  dollars  and  fifty  cents  per 
fanega,  rather  more  than  two  bushels  Enghsh  measure.  It 
brings  the  same  price  when  delivered  at  San  Francisco,  near 
the  mouth  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco.  It  is  transported  from 
the  Sacramento  valley  to  a  market  in  launches  of  about  fifty 
tons  burden.  Unbolted  flour  sells  at  eight  dollars  per  one 
hundred  pounds.  The  reason  of  this  high  price  is  the  scarcitj 
of  flouriug-mills  in  the  country.  The  mills  which  are  now  go- 
ing up  in  various  places  will  reduce  the  price  of  flour,  and 
probably  they  will  soon  be  able  to  grind  all  the  wheat  raised 
in  the  country.  The  streams  of  California  afford  excellent 
water-power,  but  the  flour  consumed  by  Captain  Sutter  is 
giound  by  a  very  ordinary  horse-mill. 

I  saw  near  the  for*  ^  small  patch  of  hemp,  which  had  been 
sown  as  an  experiment,  in  the  spring,  and  had  not  been  irriga- 
ted. I  never  saw  a  ranker  growth  of  hemp  in  Kentucky. 
Vegetables  of  several  kinds  appeared  to  be  abundant  and  in 
perfection,  but  I  shall  speak  more  particularly  of  the  agricul- 
tural productions  of  Cahfornia  in  another  place,  when  my 
knowledge  of  the  country  and  its  resources  becomes,  from  ob- 
servation, more  general  and  perfect. 

Captain  Sutter's  dining-room  and  his  table  fumitm-e  do  not 
present  a  very  luxurious  appearance.  The  room  is  unfurnished, 
irith  the  exception  of  a  common  deal  table  standing  in  the  cen- 

23* 


270  THE  DINNER. 

tre,  and  some  benches,  which  are  siibstitutes  for  chaiis.  The 
table,  when  spread,  presented  a  correspondingly  primitive  sim- 
plicity of  aspect  and  of  viands.  The  first  course  consisted  of 
good  soup,  served  to  each  guest  in  a  china  bo?rl  with  silver 
spoons.  The  bowls,  after  they  had  been  used  for  this  purpose, 
were  taken  away  and  cleansed  by  the  Indian  servant,  and  were 
afterwards  used  as  tumblers  or  goblets,  from  which  we  drank 
our  water.  The  next  course  consisted  of  two  dishes  of  meat, 
one  roasted  and  one  fried,  and  both  highly  seasoned  with  onions. 
Bread,  cheese,  butter,  and  melons,  constituted  the  desert.  I 
am  thus  pai-ticular  because  I  wish  to  convey  as  accm^ately  as  I 
can  the  style  and  mode  of  li^ong  in  California  of  intelligent  gen- 
tlemen of  foreign  birth,  who  have  been  accustomed  to  all  the 
luxuries  of  the  most  refined  civilization. 

It  is  not  for  the  purpose  of  criticising,  but  to  show  how  des- 
titute the  people  of  this  naturally  favored  country  have  been 
of  many  of  the  most  common  comforts  of  domestic  life,  owing 
to  the  wretched  system  of  government  which  has  heretofore 
existed.  Such  has  been  the  extortion  of  the  government  in  the 
way  of  impost-duties,  that  few  supphes  which  are  included 
among  even  the  most  ordinary  elegancies  of  life,  have  ever 
reached  the  inhabitants,  and  for  these  they  have  been  compelled 
to  pay  prices  that  would  be  astonishing  to  a  citizen  of  the  Uni- 
ted States  or  of  Europe,  and  such  as  have  impoverished  the 
population.  As  a  general  fact,  they  cannot  be  obtained  at  any 
price,  and  hence  those  who  have  the  ability  to  purchase  are 
compelled  to  forego  their  use  from  necessity. 

With  our  appetites,  however,  we  enjoyed  the  dinner  as  much 
as  if  it  had  been  served  up  in  the  most  sumptuously -furnished 
dining-saloon,  with  all  the  table  appurtenances  of  polished  sil- 
ver, sparkling  crystal,  apd  snow-like  porcelain.  By  our  long 
journey  we  had  learned  to  est'mate  the  value  of  a  thing  for  its 
actual  utility  and  the  amount  )f  enjoyment  it  confers.  The  day 
is  not  distant  when  American  enterprise  and  American  ingenui- 
ty will  furnish  those  adjuncts  of  civilization  of  which  California 
Is  new  so  destitute,  and  rend(^r  a  residence  in  this  country  one 
of  the   most  luxurious  upon  the  globe.     The  couversation  at 


RANCHERIAS SACRAMENTO  RIVER.  27* 

dinner  turned  upon  the  events  which  have  recently  occurred  in 
the  country,  and  which  I  shall  narrate  in  auoLher  place. 

From  the  3d  to  the  Yth  of  September  we  remained  encamped. 
Our  camp  is  near  an  Iiidian  rancheria.  These  rancherias  consist 
of  a  number  of  huts  constructed  of  a  rib-work  or  frame  of  small 
poles  or  saplings  in  a  conical  shape,  covered  with  straw,  grass, 
or  tule,  a  species  of  rush,  which  grows  to  the  height  of  five  or 
six  feet.  The  huts  are  sometimes  fifteen  feet  in  diameter  at  their 
bases,  and  the  number  of  them  grouped  together  vary  according 
to  the  number  of  the  tribe  which  inliabits  them.  A  differ- 
ent language  in  many  respects  is  spoken  at  the  different  ranche- 
rias. In  this  remark  I  refer  to  the  gentile  Indians,  as  they  are 
here  called,  and  not  to  the  christianized,  the  last  of  whom  speak 
the  Spanish.  There  was  a  large  gathering  at  the  rancheria  on 
the  night  of  the  6th  to  celebrate  some  event.  Dancing,  sing- 
ing, loud  shouting,  and  howling,  were  continued  without  inter- 
mission the  whole  night.  One  of  their  orgies  consisted  in  fix- 
ing a  scalp  upon  a  pole  and  dancing  around  it,  accompanpng 
the  dance  with,  at  first,  a  low  melancholy  howl,  then  with  loud 
shrieks  and  groans,  mitil  the  performers  appeared  to  become 
frantic  with  excitement  of  some  kind,  it  would  be  difficult  to  tell 
what.  The  noise  made  by  them  was  such  as  to  prevent  sleep, 
although  a  quarter  of  a  mile  distant  from  our  camp. 

The  Sacramento  river,  at  this  point,  is  a  stream  nearly  half  a 
mUe  in  width.  The  tide  rises  and  falls  some  two  or  three  feet. 
The  water  is  perfectly  hmpid  and  fresh.  The  river  is  said  to  be 
navigable  for  craft  of  one  hundred  tons  burden,  at  all  seasons, 
a  hundred  miles  above  this  place.  In  the  season  of  high  waters, 
from  January  to  July,  it  is  navigable  a  much  greater  distance. 
The  Sacramento  rises  above  latitude  42°  north,  and  runs  from 
north  to  south  nearly  parallel  with  the  coast  of  the  Pacific,  untD 
it  empties  into  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  by  several  mouths  in 
latitude  Z%\°  north.  It  is  fi-inged  with  timber,  chiefly  oak  and 
sycamore.  Grape-vines  and  a  variety  of  shrubbery  ornament 
its  banks,  and  give  a  most  charming  effect  when  saihng  upon  its 
placid  and  limpid  current.  I  never  saw  a  more  beautiful  stream. 
In  the  rainy  season,  and  in  the  spring,  when  the  snows  on  the 


272  SWEAT -J  OUSE 

mountains  are  melting,  it  over£cws  its  banks  in  manj  places. 
It  abounds  in  fish,  the  most  vahiable  of  which  h  the  salmon. 
These  salmon  are  the  largest  and  the  fattest  I  have  ever  seen.  I 
have  seen  salmon  taken  from  the  Sacramento  five  feet  in  length. 
All  of  its  tributaries  are  equally  rich  m  the  finny  tribe.  Ameri- 
can enterprise  will  soon  develop  the  wealth  contained  in  these 
streams,  which  hitherto  has  been  entirely  neglected. 

The  site  of  the  town  of  Nueva  Helvetia,  which  has  been  laid 
out  by  Captain  Sutter,  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  Sa- 
cramento. It  is  on  an  elevation  of  the  plain,  and  not  subject 
to  overflow  when  the  waters  of  the  river  are  at  their  highest 
known  point.  There  are  now  but  three  or  four  small  houses  in 
this  town,  but  I  have  little  doubt  that  it  will  soon  become  a 
place  of  importance. 

Near  tl  e  embarcadero  of  New  Helvetia  is  a  large  Indian 
"sweat-house,"  or  Temascdl,  an  appendage  of  most  of  the 
rancherias.  The  "  sweat-house"  is  the  most  important  medical 
agent  employed  by  these  Indians.  It  has,  I  do  not  doubt,  the  ef- 
fect of  consigning  many  of  them  to  their  graves,  long  before 
their  appointed  time.  A  "  sweat-house"  is  an  excavation  in  the 
earth,  to  the  depth  of  six  or  eight  feet,  arched  over  with  slabs 
split  from  logs.  Tb  n-e  is  a  single  small  aperture  or  skylight 
in  the  roof.  These  slabs  are  covered  to  the  depth  of  several 
feet  with  earth.  There  is  a  narrow  entrance,  with  steps  leading 
down  and  into  this  subterraneous  apartment.  Rude  shelves  are 
erected  around  the  wuUs,  upon  which  the  invalids  repose  theu 
bodies.  The  door  is  closed  and  no  air  is  admitted  excep' 
from  the  small  aperture  in  the  roof,  through  which  escapes 
the  smoke  of  a  fire  kindled  in  the  centre  of  the  dungeon.  This 
fire  heats  the  apartment  until  tJ^e  perspiration  •■oils  from  the 
naked  bodies  of  the  invalids  in  streams.  I  incautiously  entered 
one  of  these  caverns  during  the  operation  above  described,  and 
was  in  a  few  moments  so  nearly  suffocated  with  the  heat,  smoke, 
and  impure  air,  that  1  found  it  difficult  to  make  my  way  out. 

In  the  afternoon  of  th  7th,  we  received  a  note  from  Captain 
Sutter,  stating  that  lie  nud  succeeded  in  obtaining  a  room  in  th^s 
fort  for  our  ace  immuaation,  and  inviting  us  to  i;ccept  of  it.    He 


INDIAN    ALARM.  27S 

sent  two  servants  to  assist  in  packing  our  baggage ;  and  ac- 
cepting the  invitation,  we  took  up  our  lodgings  in  the  fort.  By 
this  change  we  were  relieved  from  the  annoyance  of  mosquitoes, 
which  have  troubled  us  much  during  the  night  at  our  encamp- 
ment. But  with  this  exception,  so  long  have  we  been  accius- 
tomed  to  sleeping  in  the  open  air,  with  no  shelter  but  our 
blankets  and  the  canopy  of  the  heavens,  that  our  encampment 
was  preferable  to  our  quarters  within  the  confined  walls  of  the 
fort. 

It  is  scarcely  possible  to  imagine  a  more  delightful  tempera- 
ture, or  a  climate  which  is  more  agreeable  and  uniform.  The 
sky  is  cloudless,  without  the  slightest  film  of  vapor  apparent  in 
all  the  vast  azure  vault.  In  the  middle  of  the  day  the  sun 
shines  with  great  power,  but  ia  the  shade  it  is  nowhere  uncom- 
fortable. At  night,  so  pure  is  the  atmosphere,  that  the  moon 
gives  a  fight  sufficiently  powerful  for  the  pm-poses  of  the  reader 
or  student  who  has  good  eyesight.  There  is  no  necessity  of 
burning  the  "  midnight  oil."  Nature  here,  lights  the  candle  for 
the  bookworm. 

On  the  9th,  we  commenced  preparations  for  leaving  the  fort, 
for  San  Francisco,  a  journey  by  land  of  about  two  hundred 
mUes.  Oui-  intention  was  to  leave  early  the  next  morning. 
While  thus  engaged,  some  coiuiers  arrived  from  the  settlements 
on  the  Sacramento,  about  one  himdred  miles  north,  with  tlie 
startling  information  that  one  thousand  Walla- Walla  Indians, 
from  Oregon,  had  made  their  appearance  in  the  valley,  for  hos- 
tile purposes.  Tlie  couriers,  who  were  themselves  settlers, 
appeared  to  be  in  great  alarm,  and  stated  that  they  had  seen 
the  advance  party  of  the  Walla- Wallas,  and  that  their  object 
was  to  assault  the  fort  for  a  murder  which  they  alleged  had 
been  committed  one  or  two  years  since,  by  an  American  upon 
a  chief  of  their  tribe,  and  for  some  mdebtedness  of  Captain 
Sutter  to  them,  in  cattle,  &c.  In  the  event  of  a  failme  in  then- 
assault  upon  the  fort,  then  they  intended  to  dri\e  off  all  the 
cattle  belonging  to  the  settlers  in  the  vaUey.  This  was  the 
substance  of  their  information.  It  was  so  alarming,  that  we 
postponed  at  once  our  departure  for  San  Francisco,  and  volun^ 


274  INDIAN    ALARM. 

teered  such  assistance  as  we  could  render  in  defending  the 
fort  against  this  formidable  invasion. 

The  Walla-Wallas  are  a  powerful  and  warlike  tribe  of  Indians, 
inhabiting  a  district  of  coiuitry  on  the  Columbia  river.  They 
are  reported  to  be  good  marksmen  and  fight  with  great  bravery 
and  desperation.  Their  warriors  are  armed  with  good  rifles 
and  an  abundance  of  ammimition,  which  they  procure  from  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company.  They  are  rapidly  advancing  in  civili- 
zation, and  many  of  them  have  good  farms  under  cultivation, 
with  numerous  herds  of  cattle  and  horses. 

Couiiers  were  immediately  dispatched  in  every  direction  to 
apprize  the  settlers  in  the  valley  of  the  invasion,  and  to  the 
nearest  mihtary  posts,  for  such  assistance  as  they  could  rende 
imder  the  cuxumstances.  The  twelve  pieces  of  artillery  by 
which  the  fort  is  defended  were  put  in  order,  and  all  inside 
were  busily  employed  in  preparing  for  the  expected  combat. 
Indian  spies  were  also  dispatched  to  reconnoitre  and  discover 
the  position  and  actual  number  of  the  invaders. 

The  spies  returned  to  the  fort  on  the  11th  without  having 
seen  the  Walla- Walla  invaders.  A  small  party  of  some  forty 
or  fifty  only,  are  supposed  to  be  about  twenty -five  or  thu-ty 
miles  distant,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Sacramento.  On  the 
twelfth,  Lieut.  Revere  of  the  Navy,  with  a  party  of  twenty-five 
men,  arrived  at  the  fort  from  Sonoma,  to  reinforce  the  garri- 
son ;  and  on  the  morning  of  tlie  thirteenth,  it  having  been  pretty 
well  ascertained  that  the  reported  1000  hostile  Walla- Wallaa 
were  a  small  party  only  of  men,  women,  and  children,  whose 
disposition  was  entirely  pacific,  we  determined  to  proceed  im- 
mediately on  our  journey  to  San  Francisco, 


0S06BAPUICA1.  SKETCH.  276 


CHAPTER   XXII. 

Gfeographical  sketch  of  California — Its  political  and  social  institntioDS — 
Colorado  river — Valley  and  river  of  San  Joaquin — Former  government — 
Presidios — Missions — Ports  and  commerce. 

Before  proceeding  farther  in  my  travels  througn  Upper 
California,  for  the  general  information  of  the  reader,  it  will  be 
proper  to  give  a  brief  geographical  sketch  of  the  country,  and 
some  account  of  its  political  and  social  institutions,  as  they 
have  heretofore  existed. 

The  district  of  country  known,  geographically,  as  Upper 
California,  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Oregon,  the  forty-second 
degree  of  north  latitude  being  the  boundary  hne  between  the 
two  territories ;  on  the  east  by  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  the 
Sierra  de  los  Mimbres,  a  continuation  of  the  same  range  ;  on 
the  south  by  Sonora  and  Old  or  Lower  Cahfornia,  and  on  the 
west  by  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Its  extent  from  north  to  south  is 
about  700  miles,  and  from  east  to  west  from  600  to  800  miles, 
with  an  area  of  about  400,000  square  miles.  A  small  portion 
only  of  this  extensive  territory  is  fertile  or  inhabitable  by  civil- 
ized man,  and  this  portion  consists  chiefly  in  the  strip  of 
country  along  the  Pacific  Ocean,  about  700  miles  in  length,  and 
fi'om  100  to  150  in  breadth,  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  Sierra 
Nevada  and  on  the  west  by  the  Pacific.  In  speaking  of 
Upper  California,  this  strip  of  coimtry  is  what  is  generally  re 
ferred  to. 

The  largest  river  of  Upper  California  is  the  Colorado  or  Red, 
which  has  a  course  of  about  1000  miles,  and  empties  into  the 
Gulf  of  California  in  latitude  about  32°  north.  But  little  is 
known  of  the  region  through  which  this  stream  flows.  The  re- 
port of  trappers,  however,  is  that  the  river  is  canoned  between 
high  moimtatns  and  precipices  a  large  portion  of  its  comse,  axA 
that  its  banks  and  the  country  generallj^through  which  it  flows 


276  GEOGRAPHICAL  £  KETCH. 

are  arid,  sandy,  and  barren.  Green  and  Grand  rivers  are  its 
principal  upper  tributaries,  both  of  which  rise  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains  and  within  the  territories  of  the  United  States.  The 
Gila  is  its  lowest  and  largest  branch,  emptying  into  the  Colo- 
rado, just  above  its  mouth.  Sevier  and  Virgin  rivers  are  also 
tributaries  of  the  Colorado.  Mary's  river,  which  I  have  pre- 
viously described,  rises  near  latitude  42°  north,  and  has  a  course 
of  about  400  miles,  when  its  waters  sink  in  the  sands  of  the 
desert.  This  river  is  not  laid  down  on  any  map  which  I  have 
seen.  The  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin  rivers,  have  each  a 
course  of  from  300  to  400  miles,  the  first  flowing  from  the  north 
and  the  last  from  the  south,  and  both  emptying  into  the  Bay  ol 
San  Francisco  at  the  same  point.  They  water  the  large  and 
fertile  valley  lying  between  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  the  coast 
range  of  mountains.  I  subjoin  a  description  of  the  valley  and 
river  San  Joaquin,  from  the  pen  of  a  gentleman  (Dr.  Marsh) 
who  has  explored  the  river  from  its  som'ce  to  its  mouth. 

"  This  noble  valley  is  tlie  first  undoubtedly  in  California,  and 
one  of  the  most  magnificent  in  the  world.  It  is  about  600  miles 
long,  with  an  average  width  of  about  fifty  miles.  It  is  boundec' 
on  the  e.vst  by  the  great  Snowy  Mountains,  and  on  the  west  by 
the  low  range,  which  in  many  places  dwindles  into  insignificant 
hills,  and  has  its  northern  terminus  at  the  strait  of  Carquines, 
on  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  and  its  southern  near  the  Colorado 
river. 

"The  livei  of  San  Joaqiiin  flows  through  the  middle  of  the 
valley  for  about  lialf  of  its  extent,  and  thence  diverges  towards 
the  etiaiern  mountain,  in  which  it  has  its  source.  About  sixty 
miles  further  south  is  the  northern  end  of  the  Buena  Vista  lake, 
whif  h  is  about  one  hundred  miles  long,  and  from  ten  to  twenty 
wide.  Still  farther  south,  and  near  the  western  side  of  the 
valley,  is  another  and  much  smaller  lake. 

'  The  great  lakt  receives  about  a  dozen  tributaries  ou  its 
eastern  side,  which  !»11  rise  in  the  gre?  t  range  of  the  Snowy 
Mountains.  Some  of  these  streams  fljw  tlnough  broad  and 
fertile  valleys  within  the  mountain's  range,  an('  from  thence 
emerguig,    irrigate  the  pJhins  of  th'i  great  valley   for  the  dii. 


GEOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH.  ^'7 

tance  ot  twenty  or  thirty  miles.  The  largest  of  these  rivers  is 
called  by  the  Spanish  inhabitants  the  River  Reyes,  and  falls  into 
the  lake  near  its  northern  end;  it  is  a  well-timbered  stream,  and 
flou-s  through  a  country  of  great  fertility  and  beauty.  The 
tributaries  of  the  San  Joaquin  ai*e  all  on  the  east  side. 

"  On  ascending  the  stream  we  first  meet  with  the  Stanislaus, 
a  clear,  rapid  mountain  stream,  some  foi'ty  or  fifty  yards  wide, 
Viith  a  considerable  deptli  of  water  in  its  lower  portion.  The 
]\Iormous  have  commenced  a  settlement,  called  New  Hope,  and 
bailt  some  two  or  three  houses  near  the  mouth. 

"  There  are  considerable  bodies  of  fertile  land  along  the  river, 
aod  the  higher  plains  afford  good  pasturage. 

"Ten  miles  higher  up  is  the  river  of  the  Tawalomes;  it  's 
about  the  size  of  the  Stanislaus,  which  it  greatly  resembles, 
except  that  the  soil  is  somewhat  better,  and  that  it  particularly 
abounds  with  salmon. 

"  Some  thirty  miles  farther  comes  in  the  Merced,  much  the 
largest  of  the  tributaries  of  the  San  .Joaquin.  The  lands  along 
and  between  the  tributaries  of  tlie  San  Joaquin  and  the  lake;  of 
Buena  Vista  form  a  fine  pastoral  region,  with  a  good  proportion 
of  arable  land,  and  a  very  inviting  field  for  emigration.  The 
whole  of  this  region  has  been  but  imperfectly  explored  ;  enough, 
however,  is  known,  to  make  it  certain  that  it  is  one  of  the  most 
desirable  regions  on  the  continent. 

"In  the  valleys  of  the  rivers  which  come  down  from  the 
great  Snowy  Mountains,  are  vast  bodies  of  pine,  and  red-wood, 
ST  cedar  timber,  and  the  streams  afiford  watef -power  to  any 
desirable  amount. 

"  The  whole  coimtry  east  of  the  San  Joaquin  and  the  water 
communication  which  connects  it  with  the  lakes,  is  considered, 
by  the  best  judges,  to  be  particularly  adapted  to  the  culture  of 
the  vine,  which  must  necessarily  become  one  of  the  principal 
agricultural  resources  of  California." 

The  Salinas  river  empties  into  the  Pacific,  about  twelve  miles 
above  Monterey.  Bear  river  empties  into  the  Great  Salt  Lake. 
The  other  streams  of  California  are  all  small. 

The  Great  Salt  Lake  and  the  Utah  Lake  I  have  already  de- 
34 


278  GEOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

scribed.  There  are  numerous  small  lakes  in  the  Sierra  Nevada. 
The  San  Joaquin  is  connected  with  Tule  lake,  or  lake  Buena 
Vista,  a  sheet  of  water  about  eighty  xiles  in  length  and  fifteen 
in  breadth.  A  lake,  not  laid  down  in  any  map,  and  known 
as  the  Laguna  among  the  Californians,  is  situated  about  sixty 
miles  north  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco.  It  is  between  forty 
and  sixty  miles  in  length.  The  valleys  in  its  vicinity  are  highly 
fertile,  and  romantically  beautiful.  In  the  vicinity  of  this  lake 
there  is  a  mountain  of  pm-e  sulphur.  There  are  also  soda  springs 
and  a  great  variety  of  other  mineral  waters,  and  minerals. 

The  principal  mountains  west  of  the  eastern  boundary  of  Cal 
ifornia,  (the  Rocky  Mountains,)  are  the  Bear  River,  Wahsatch, 
Utah,  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  the  Coast  range.  The  Wah- 
satch mountains  form  the  eastern  rim  of  the  "great  interior 
basin."  There  are  mmierous  ranges  in  this  desert  basin  all  of 
which  run  north  and  south,  and  are  separated  from  each  other 
by  spacious  and  barren  valleys  and  plams.  The  Sierra  Nevada 
range  is  of  greater  elevation  than  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The 
summits  of  the  most  elevated  peaks  are  covered  with  perpetual 
snow.  This  and  the  Coast  range  run  nearly  parallel  with  the 
shore  of  the  Pacific.  The  first  is  from  100  to  200  miles  from 
the  Pacific,  and  the  last  from  forty  to  sixty  miles.  The  valley 
between  them  is  the  most  fertile  portion  of  California. 

Upper  California  was  discovered  in  1548,  by  Cabrillo,  a 
Spanish  navigator.  In  1578,  the  northern  portion  of  it  wa^s 
visited  by  Sir  Francis  Drake,  who  called  it  New  Albion.  It 
wds,  first  colonized  by  the  Spaniards,  in  17C8,  and  formed  " 
province  of  Mexico  until  after  the  revolution  in  that  countr}. 
There  liave  been  numerous  revolutions  and  civil  wars  in  Califor- 
nia within  the  last  twenty  y(!ars,  but  up  to  the  conquest  of  the 
country  by  the  United  States  in  184G,  Mexican  authority  has 
generally  been  exercised  over  it. 

The  following  description  of  the  political  and  social  condition 
of  Upper  California  in  1822,  is  extracted  and  translated  from  a 
Sijanish  writer  of  tliat  date,  I  have  thought  that  the  extract 
would  not  be  uninteresting  : — 

"  Government. — Upper  California,  on  account  of  its  smaU 


GOVERNMENT — PRESIDIOS.  279 

population,  not  being  able  to  become  a  state  of  the  great  Mexi 
can  republic,  takes  the  character  of  territory,  the  governmenl 
of  which  is  under  the  charge  of  a  commandant-general,  who 
exercises  the  charge  of  a  superior  political  chief,  whose  attri- 
butes depend  entirely  upon  the  president  of  the  republic  and 
the  general  congress.  But  to  amplify  the  legislation  of  its 
centre,  it  r  as  a  deputation  made  up  of  seven  vocals,  the  half  of 
these  individuals  being  removed  every  two  years.  The  superior 
political  chief  presides  at  their  sessions.  The  inhabitants  of  the 
territory  are  divided  amongst  the  presidios,  missions,  and  towns. 

"Presidios. — The  necessity  of  protecting  the  apostolic  predi- 
cation was  the  obligatory  reason  for  forming  the  presidios, 
which  were  established  according  to  circumstances.  That  of 
San  Diego  was  the  first;  Santa  Barbara,  Monterey,  and  San 
Francisco,  were  built  afterwards.  The  form  of  all  of  them  is 
nearly  the  same,  and  this  is  a  square,  containing  about  two 
hundred  yards  in  each  front,  formed  of  a  weak  wall  made  of 
mud-bricks.  Its  height  may  be  four  yards  in  the  interior  of 
the  square,  and  built  on  to  the  same  wall.  In  its  entire  cir- 
cumference are  a  chapel,  storehouses,  and  houses  for  the  com- 
mandant; officers  and  troops  having  at  the  entrance  of  thi; 
presidio  quarters  for  a  corps  de  garde. 

"  These  buildings  in  the  presidios,  at  the  first  idea,  appear  to 
have  been  sufficient;  the  only  object  having  been  for  a  defence 
against  a  surprise  from  the  gentiles,  or  wild  Indians  in  the 
immediate  vicmity.  But  this  cause  having  ceased,  I  believe 
they  ought  to  be  demolished,  as  they  are  daily  threatening  a 
complete  ruin,  and  from  the  very  limited  spaces  of  habitation, 
must  be  very  incommodious  to  those  who  inhabit  them.  As  to 
the  exterior  of  the  presidios,  several  private  individuals  have 
built  some  very  decent  houses,  and  having  evinced  great  emu- 
lation in  this  branch  of  business,  I  have  no  doubt  but  in  a  short 
time  we  shall  see  very  considerable  towns  in  California. 

"  At  the  distance  of  one,  or  at  the  most  two  miles  from  the 
presidio,  and  near  to  the  anchoring-ground,  is  a  fort,  which  has 
a  few  pieces  of  artillery  of  small  cahbre.  The  situation  of  most 
of  tkem  is  very  advantageous  for  the  defence  of  the  port» 


880  MISSIONS. 

though  the  form  of  the  walls,  esplanades,  and  other  imperfec 
tions,  which  may  be  seen,  make  them  very  insignificant. 

"  The  battahon  of  each  presidio  is  made  up  of  eighty  or  more 
horse-soldiers,  called  cuera ;  besides  these,  it  has  a  number  of 
auxihary  troops  and  a  detachment  of  artillery.  The  com- 
mandant of  each  presidio  is  the  captain  of  its  respective  com- 
pany, and  besides  the  intervention,  military  and  political,  he  has 
charge  of  all  things  relating  to  the  marine  department. 

"Missions. — The  missions  contained  in  the  territory  are 
twenty-one.  They  were  built  at  diflferent  epochs  ■  that  of  San 
Diego,  being  the  first,  was  built  in  1769 ;  its  distance  from  the 
presidio  of  the  same  name  is  two  leagues.  The  rest  were  built 
successively,  according  to  circumstances  and  necessity.  The 
last  one  was  founded  in  the  year  1822,  under  the  name  of  San 
Fx^acisco  Dolores,  and  is  the  most  northern  of  all. 

"  The  edifices  in  some  of  those  missions  are  more  extensive 
than  in  others,  but  in  form  they  are  all  nearly  equal.  They 
are  all  fabricated  of  mud-bricks,  and  the  divisions  are  according 
to  necessity.  In  all  of  them  may  be  fomid  commodious  habita- 
tions for  the  ministers,  storehouses  to  keep  their  goods  in,  pro- 
portional granaries,  ofiices  for  soap-makers,  weavers,  black- 
smiths, and  large  parterres,  and  horse  and  cattle  pens,  inde- 
pendent apartments  for  Indian  youths  of  each  sex,  and  all  such 
offices  as  were  necessary  at  the  time  of  its  mstitution.  Con- 
tiguous to  and  communicating  with  the  former,  is  a  church, 
forming  a  part  of  the  edifices  of  each  mission ;  they  are  all  very 
proportionable,  and  are  adorned  with  profusion. 

"  The  Indians  reside  about  two  hundred  yards  distant  from  the 
above-mentioned  edifice.  This  place  is  called  the  rancheria. 
Most  of  tlie  missions  are  made  up  of  very  reduced  quarters, 
built  with  mud-bricks,  foiming  streets,  while  in  others  the  In- 
dians have  been  allowed  to  follow  their  primiti\e  customs ;  their 
JweUings  being  a  sort  of  huts,  in  a  conical  shape,  which  at  the 
most  do  not  exceed  four  yards  in  diameter,  and  tlie  top  of  the 
cone  may  be  elevated  three  yards.  They  are  built  of  rough 
sticks,  covered  with  bulrushes  or  grass,  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
completely  protect  the  inhabitants  fiom  all  the  inclemencies  of 


MISSIONS  281 

the  weather.  In  my  opinion,  these  rancheiias  are  the  most 
adequate  to  the  natm-al  uncleanliness  of  the  Indians,  as  the 
famiUes  often  renew  them,  burning  the  old  ones,  and  imme- 
diately building  others  with  the  greatest  facihty.  Opposite  the 
rancherias  and  near  to  the  mission,  is  to  be  found  a  small  gar- 
rison, with  proportionate  rooms,  for  a  corporal  and  five  soldiers 
with  their  famihes.  This  small  garrison  is  qmte  sufficient  to 
prevent  any  attempt  of  the  Indians  from  taking  eflect,  there 
having  been  some  examples  made,  which  causes  the  Pwdians  to 
respect  this  small  force.  One  of  these  pickets  in  a  mission  has 
d  double  object ;  besides  keeping  the  Indians  in  subjecticm, 
they  run  post  with  a  monthly  correspondence,  or  with  any  ex- 
traordinaries  that  may  be  necessary  for  government. 

"  All  the  missions  in  this  California  are  under  the  charge  of 
rehgious  men  of  the  order  of  San  Francisco.  At  the  present 
time  their  number  is  twenty-seven,  most  of  them  of  an  ad- 
vanced age.  Each  mission  has  one  of  these  fathers  for  its 
administrator,  and  he  holds  absolute  authority.  The  tilling  of 
the  ground,  the  gathering  of  the  harvest,  the  slaughteiing  of 
cattle,  the  weaving,  and  every  thing  that  concerns  the  mission, 
is  imder  the  dhection  of  the  fathers,  without  any  other  person 
interfering  in  any  way  whatever,  so  that  if  any  one  mission  has 
the  good  fortune  to  be  superintended  by  an  industrious  and 
discreet  padre,  the  Indians  disfrute  in  abtmdance  all  the  real 
necessaries  of  life ;  at  the  same  time  the  nakedness  and  misery 
of  any  one  mission,  are  a  palpable  proof  of  the  inactivity  of  its 
director.  The  missions  extend  their  possession  from  one  ex- 
tremity of  the  territory  to  the  other,  and  have  made  the  hmits 
of  one  mission  from  those  of  another.  Though  they  do  not 
require  all  this  land  for  their  agriculture  and  the  maintenance 
of  their  stock,  they  have  appropriated  the  whole ;  always 
strongly  opposing  any  indiiddual  who  may  wish  to  settle  him- 
self or  his  family  on  any  piece  of  land  between  them.  But 
it  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  new  system  of  illustration,  and 
the  necessity  of  augmenting  private  property,  and  the  people 
of  reason,  wUl  cause  the  government  to  take  such  adequate 
measures  as  will  concihate  the  interests  of  all.   Amongst  all  the 

241 


2S2  HABITS  OF  INDIANS. 

missions  there  are  from  twentj-one  to  twenty-two  thousand 
rJatholic  Indians;  but  each  mission  has  not  an  equal  or  a 
proportionate  part  in  its  congregation.  Some  have  three  or  four 
thousand,  whUst  others  have  scarcely  four  himdred ;  and  at 
this  difference  may  be  computed  the  riches  of  the  missions 
in  proportion.  Besides  the  number  of  Indians  already  spoken 
of,  each  mission  has  a  considerable  number  of  gentiles,  who 
hve  chiefly  on  farms  annexed  to  the  missions.  The  number  of 
these  is  undetermined. 

"  The  Indians  are  naturally  filthy  and  careless,  and  their  un- 
derstanding is  very  Umited.  In  the  small  arts  they  are  not 
deficient  in  ideas  of  imitation,  but  they  nevier  will  be  inventors. 
Their  true  character  is  that  of  being  revengeful  and  timid,  con- 
sequently they  are  very  much  addicted  to  treachery.  They  have 
no  knowledge  of  benefits  received,  and  ingratitude  is  common 
amongst  them.  The  education  they  receive  in  their  infancy  is 
not  the  proper  one  to  develop  their  reason,  and  if  it  were,  I 
do  not  believe  them  capable  of  any  good  impression.  All  these 
Indians,  whether  from  the  continual  use  of  the  sweat-house,  or 
from  their  filthiness,  or  the  little  ventilation  in  their  habitations, 
are  weak  and  unvigorous  ;  spasms  and  rheumatics,  to  which 
they  are  so  much  subject,  are  the  consequences  of  their  cus- 
toms. But  what  most  injures  them,  and  prevents  propagation, 
is  the  venereal  disease,  which  most  of  them  have  very  strongly  ; 
clearly  proving  that  their  humors  are  analogous  to  receiving  the 
impressions  of  this  contagion.  From  this  reason  may  be  de- 
duced the  enormous  differences  between  the  births  and  deaths, 
which,  without  doubt,  is  one-tenth  per  year  in  favor  of  the  lat- 
ter ;  but  tlie  missionaries  do  all  in  their  power  to  prevent  this, 
with  respect  to  the  catechumens  situated  near  them. 

"The  general  production  of  the  missions  are,  the  breed  of  the 
larger  class  of  cattle,  and  sheep,  horses,  wheat,  maize  or  Indian 
corn,  beans,  peas,  and  other  vegetables ;  though  the  productions 
of  the  missions  situated  more  to  the  southward  are  more  ex- 
tensive, these  producing  the  grape  and  olive  in  abundance.  Of 
all  these  articles  of  production,  the  most  lucrative  is  the  large 
eatUe;   their  hides  and   tallow  affording  an  active  commerce 


PRODUCTIONS TOWNS.  883 

with  foreign  vessels  on  this  coast.  This  being  the  only  means 
the  inhabitants,  mbsionaries,  or  private  individuals  have  of  sup- 
plying their  actual  necessities,  for  this  reason  they  give  this 
branch  all  the  impulse  they  possibly  can,  and  on  it  generally 
place  all  their  attention. 

"  It  is  now  six  years  since  they  began  to  gather  in  hides  and 
tallow  for  commerce.  Formerly  they  merely  took  care  of  as 
many  or  as  much  as  they  required  for  their  own  private  use, 
and  the  rest  was  thrown  away  as  useless  ;  but  at  this  time,  the 
actual  number  of  hides  sold  annually  on  board  of  foreign  ves- 
sels amount  to  thirty  or  forty  thousand,  and  about  the  same 
amoimt  of  arrobas  (twenty-five  pounds)  of  tallow ;  and  in  pur- 
suing their  present  method,  there  is  no  doubt  but  in  three  or 
four  years  the  amount  of  the  exportation  of  each  of  these  arti- 
cles will  be  doubled.  Flax,  linen,  wine,  olive  oU,  grain,  and 
other  agricultural  productions,  would  be  very  extensive  if  there 
were  stimulants  to  excite  industry ;  but  this  not  being  the 
case,  there  is  just  grain  enough  sown  and  reaped  for  the  con- 
sumption of  the  inhabitants  in  the  territory. 

"  The  towns  contained  in  this  district  are  three ;  the  most  popu- 
lous being  that  of  Angeles,  which  has  about  twelve  hundred 
souls,  that  of  St.  Joseph's  of  Guadaloupe  may  contain  six  hun- 
dred, and  the  village  of  Branciforte  two  hundred  :  they  are  all 
formed  imperfectly  and  without  order,  each  person  having  built 
his  own  house  on  the  spot  he  thought  most  convenient  for  him- 
self. The  first  of  these  pueblos  is  governed  by  its  correspond- 
ing body  of  magistrates,  composed  of  an  alcalde  or  judge,  four 
regidores  or  municipal  officers,  a  syndic  and  secretary ;  the  sec- 
»)nd,  of  an  alcalde,  two  regidores,  a  syndic  and  secretary ;  and 
the  thu"d,  on  account  of  the  smallness  of  its  population,  is  sub- 
ject to  the  commandancia  of  Monterey. 

"  The  inhabitants  of  the  towns  are  white,  and  to  distingmsh 
them  from  the  Indians  are  vulgarly  called  people  of  reason.  The 
number  of  these  contained  in  the  territory  may  be  nearly  five 
thousand.  These  families  are  divided  amongst  the  pueblos  and 
presidios.  They  are  nearly  all  the  descendants  of  a  small  num- 
ber of  individuals  who  came  from  the  Mexican  country,  somv 


284  PEOPLE  OF  REASON FECUNDITY. 

as  settlers,  others  in  the  service  of  the  army,  and  accompanied 
by  their  wives.  In  the  hmited  space  of  little  more  than  fifty 
years  the  present  generation  has  been  formed. 

"  The  whites  are  in  general  robust,  healthy,  and  well  made. 
Some  of  them  are  occupied  in  breedmg  and  raising  cattle,  and 
cultivating  small  quantities  of  wheat  and  beans ;  but  for  want 
<jf  sufficient  land,  for  which  they  cannot  obtain  a  rightful  own-* 
ership,  their  labors  are  very  limited.  Others  dedicate  them- 
selves to  the  service  of  anns.  All  the  presidial  companies  are 
composed  of  the  natives  of  the  country,  but  the  most  of  them 
are  entirely  indolent,  it  being  very  rare  for  any  indi^^dual  to 
strive  to  augment  his  fortune.  Dancing,  horse-riding,  and 
gambling,  occupy  all  their  time.  The  arts  are  entirely  mi- 
known,  and  I  am  doubtful  if  there  is  one  individual  who  exer- 
cises any  trade  ;  very  few  Avho  understand  the  first  rudiments  of 
letters,  and  the  other  sciences  are  unknown  amonsst  them. 

"  The  fecundity  of  the  people  of  reason  is  extreme.  It  is  very 
rare  to  find  a  married  couple  with  less  than  five  or  six  children, 
while  there  are  hundreds  who  have  from  twelve  to  fifteen.  Very 
few  of  them  die  in  their  youth,  and  in  reaching  the  age  of  pu- 
berty are  sure  to  see  their  grand-children.  The  age  of  eighty 
and  one  himdred  has  always  been  common  in  this  climate ; 
most  infirmities  are  unknown  here,  and  the  freshness  and  ro- 
bustness of  the  people  show  the  beneficial  influence  of  the  cli- 
mate ;  the  women  in  particular,  have  always  the  roses  stamped  on 
their  cheeks.  This  beautiful  species  is  without  doubt  the  most 
active  and  laborious,  all  tlicir  vigilance  in  duties  of  the  house,  the 
cleanliness  of  their  children,  and  attention  to  their  husbands,  dedi- 
cating all  their  leisure  moments  to  some  kind  of  occupation  that 
may  be  useful  towards  thcii*  maintenance.  Their  clothing  is  always 
Clean  and  decent,  nakedness  being  entirely  unknown  in  either  sex. 

"  Ports  and  Vommerce. — There  are  four  ports,  principal  bays, 
in  this  territory,  which  take  the  names  of  the  corresponding 
presidios.  The  best  guarded  is  that  of  San  Diego.  That  of 
San  Francisco  has  many  advantages.  Santa  Barbara  is  but 
middling  in  tlic  best  part  of  tlie  season  ;  at  other  times  always 
•jad.     Besides  the  above-nientinncid   places,  vessels  sometimes 


COMMERCB.  S86 

anchor  at  Santa  Cruz,  San  Luis  Obispo,  El  Refugio,  San  Pedro, 
and  San  Juan,  that  they  may  obtain  the  productions  of  the 
missions  nearest  these  last-mentioned  places  ;  but  from  an  order 
sent  by  the  minister  of  war,  and  circulated  by  the  commandante- 
general,  we  are  given  to  understand  that  no  foreign  vessel  is 
peimitted  to  anchor  at  any  of  these  places,  Monterey  only  ex- 
cepted, notwithstanding  the  commandante-general  has  allowed 
the  first  three  principal  ports  to  remain  open  provisional!}'. 
Were  it  not  so,  there  would  undoubtedly  be  an  end  to  all  com- 
merce with  California,  as  I  will  quickly  show. 

"  The  only  motive  that  induces  foreign  vessels  to  visit  this  coast, 
is  for  the  hides  and  tallow  which  they  barter  for  in  the  territory. 
It  is  well  known,  that  at  any  of  these  parts  there  is  no  possibihty 
of  realizing  any  money,  for  here  it  does  not  circulate.  The 
goods  imported  by  foreign  vessels  are  intended  to  facilitate  the 
pm'chase  of  the  aforesaid  articles,  well  knowing  that  the  missions 
have  no  interest  in  money,  but  rather  such  goods  as  are  neces- 
sary for  the  Indians,  so  that  several  pei-sons  who  have  brought 
goods  to  sell  for  nothing  but  money,  have  not  been  able  to  sell 
them.  It  will  appear  very  extraordinary  that  money  should  not 
be  appreciated  in  a  comitry  where  its  value  is  so  well  known  ; 
but  the  reason  may  be  easily  perceived  by  attending  to  the  cir- 
Kumstances  of  the  territory. 

"  The  quantity  of  hides  gathered  yearly  is  about  thirty  or  forty 
thousand  ;  and  the  arrobas  of  tallow,  with  very  little  difference, 
will  be  about  the  same.  Averaging  the  price  of  each  article  at 
two  dollars,  we  shall  see  that  the  intrinsic  value  in  annual  circu- 
lation in  CaUfornia,  is  $140,000.  This  sum  di\ided  between  21 
missions,  will  give  each  one  8G,666.  Supposing  the  only  pro- 
duction of.  the  country  converted  into  money,  with  what  would 
the  Indians  be  clothed,  and  by  what  means  would  they  be  able 
to  cover  a  thousand  other  necessaries  ?  Money  is  useful  in  am- 
plifying speculations ;  but  in  California,  as  yet,  there  are  no  specu- 
lations, and  its  productions  are  barely  sufficient  for  the  absolute 
necessary  consumption.  The  same  comparison  may  be  made 
with  respect  to  private  indi\iduals,  who  are  able  to  gather  a  few 
hides  and  a  few  arrobas  of  tallow,  these  being  in  small  quantities." 


286  BEAR  REVOLUTION. 


CHAPTER    XXIII. 

Sketch  of  the  Bear  revolution,  and  first  conquest  of  California  by  the 
American  troops — Capture  of  Lieut.  De  Arce — Capture  of  Sonoma,  by 
Capt  Merritt  and  party,  on  the  14th  of  July — Proclamation  of  William 
B.  Ide — Barbarous  and  brutal  murder  of  Cowie  and  Fowler — Four- 
fingered  Jack — Capt.  Ford's  engagement  with  the  C^aliforniaus ;  defeat 
of  the  latter — Flight  of  De  la  Torre — Proclamations  jf  Castro — Capt. 
Fremont  joins  the  revolutionists  at  Sonoma,  on  the  25th  of  July — Commo- 
dore Sloat's  arrival  ifl  California — Raising  of  the  U.  S.  flag  at  Monterey, 
San  Francisco,  Sonoma,  and  other  places — Proclamation  of  Com.  Sloat 
— Capt.  Fremont  occupies  San  Juan — Castro  retreats  to  the  south — Los 
Angeles  captured  by  Com.  Stockton — Com.  Stockton's  proclamation 

I  DEEM  it  proper  to  record  here  the  events  which  occurred  in 
California  immediately  preceding  my  arrival,  and  which  finally 
resulted  in  the  conquest  of  the  country  by  the  United  States 
naval  and  mihtary  forces.  For  some  of  the  facts  stated,  in 
reference  to  the  revolutionary  movement,  I  am  indebted  to 
Robert  Semple,  Esq.,  who  has  been  a  resident  of  California  for 
a  number  of  years,  and  was  himself  an  eye-witness  to,  and  a 
participator  in,  many  of  the  transactions  described. 

The  population  of  California,  in  the  spring  of  1846,  was  esti- 
mated at  about  10,000,  exclusive  of  Indians.  Two  thousand  of 
these  were  supposed  to  be  foreigners,  chiefly  from  the  United 
States.  The  latter  class  had  been  rapidly  increasing  for  several 
years ;  and  it  became  apparent  to  the  more  intelligent  of  the 
Californians,  that  this  population,  if  suffered  to  increase  in  the 
same  ratio,  would,  in  a  few  years,  change  the  government  and 
institutions  of  tlio  country.  A  natural  jealousy  prompted  a 
course  of  measures  on  the  part  of  the  government,  founded  upon 
apprehensions  such  as  has  been  stated,  which  resulted  in  pre- 
cijjitating  the  event  they  were  intended  to  guard  against. 

In  1846  a  revolutionary  movement,  headed  by  Don  Jos^ 
Castro,  Alvarado,  Pio  Pico,  aiul  others,  in  which  the  foreigners 
participated,  resulted  in  deposiiig  Gen.  Micheltorena,  governor 


BEAR    REVOLUTION.  287 

of  California  under  the  appoiotment  of  the  government  of 
Mexico.  After  the  deposition  of  Micheltorena,  the  guberna- 
torial office  was  assumed  by  Pico.  Gen,  Castro,  at  the  same 
time,  assumed  the  command  of  the  military.  Gen.  Castro,  soon 
after  he  came  into  power,  adopted  a  policy  towards  the  foreigners 
highly  offensive.  Among  his  acts  was  the  promulgation  of  a 
proclamation,  requiring  all  Americans  to  leave  the  countrj. 
This  was  its  interpretation  by  the  latter.  No  immediate  btep:? 
were  taken  to  enforce  this  order,  and  but  little  attention  was 
paid  to  it  by  those  to  whom  it  was  addressed.  Their  intention 
from  the  first,  however,  was,  doubtless,  to  resist  any  force  that 
should  attempt  their  expulsion  from  the  country. 

About  the  1st  of  June,  1846,  an  order  was  issued  by  Gen. 
Castro  to  Lieut.  Francisco  de  Arce,  commandant  of  the  garrison 
at  Sonoma,  to  remove  a  number  of  horses,  the  property  of  the 
government,  from  the  Mission  of  San  Rafael,  to  his  headquar- 
ters, then  at  Santa  Clara.  This  officer  was  accompanied  by  a 
guard  of  foui'teen  men.  In  the  execution  of  the  order,  he  was 
compelled  to  cross  the  Sacramento  river  at  New  Helvetia,  the 
nearest  point  at  which  the  horses  could  swim  the  stream. 
While  travelling  in  that  direction,  he  was  seen  by  an  Indian, 
who  reported  to  the  American  settlers  on  the  Sacramento,  that 
he  had  seen  two  or  three  hundred  armed  men  advancing  up  the 
Sacramento  valley.  At  this  time  Captain  Fremont,  with  his 
exploring  party,  was  encamped  at  "  the  Buttes,"  near  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Rio  de  las  Plumas  and  the  Sacramento,  and 
about  sixty  or  seventy  miles  above  Sutter's  Fort.  This  officer 
had  previously  had  some  difficulties  with  Gen.  Castro,  and  the 
inference  from  the  information  given  by  the  Indian  was,  that 
Castro,  at  the  head  of  a  considerable  force,  was  marching  to 
attack  Captain  Fremont.  The  alarm  was  spread  throughout 
the  valley  with  as  much  celerity  as  the  swiftest  horses  could 
convey  it,  and  most  of  the  settlers  joiiied  Captain  Fremont  at 
his., camp,  to  assist  in  his  defence  against  the  supposed  medi- 
tated attack  of  Castro.  They  were  met  here,  however,  by  a 
person  (Mr.  Knight)  who  stated  that  he  had  seen  the  party  of 
Califomians  in  charge  of  the  horses,  and  conversed  ^itb  the 


288  BEAR    REVOLUTION 

oflScer  commanding  it.  Mr.  Knight  stated  that  the  oflScer  told 
Lim,  that  Gen.  Castro  had  sent  for  the  horses  for  the  purpose 
of  moimtrng  a  battaUon  of  200  men,  with  which  he  designed 
to  march  against  the  Americans  settled  in  the  Sacramento  val- 
ley, and  to  expel  them  from  the  country.  This  being  accom- 
phshcd,  he  intended  to  fortify  the  Bear  River  Pass  in  thc-i 
California  mountains,  and  prevent  the  ingress  of  the  emigrants 
from  the  United  States  to  California.  The  recent  proclama- 
tions of  Castro  gave  strong  probability  to  this  report,  and  the 
American  settlers  determined  at  once  to  take  measures  for  theii- 
own  protection. 

After  some  consultation,  it  was  resolved  that  a  force  of  suf- 
ficient strength  for  the  purpose  should  pm-sue  the  Californians, 
and  capture  the  horses.  This  measure  v/ould  weaken  Castro, 
and  for  the  present  frustrate  his  supposed  designs.  Twelve 
men  immediately  volunteered  for  the  expedition,  and  Mr.  Mer- 
ritt,  being  the  eldest  of  the  party,  was  chosen  captain.  At 
daylight  on  the  morning  of  the  10th  of  June,  they  surprised 
the  party  of  Californians  mider  the  command  of  Lieut.  De 
Arce,  who,  without  resistance,  gave  up  their  arms  and  the  gov- 
ernment horses.  An  individual  travelling  with  this  party 
claimed  six  horses  as  belonging  to  himself,  which  he  was  allowed 
to  take  and  depart  with,  .the  leader  of  the  Americans  declaring 
that  they  would  not  seize  upon  or  disturb  private  property. 

The  Californians,  after  they  had  delivered  their  arms  and 
horses,  were  dismissed  with  a  horse  for  each .  to  ride,  and  a 
message  to  Gen.  Castro,  that  if  he  wished  his  horses  again  he 
must  come  and  get  them.  The  revolutionary  movement  on  the 
■part  of  the  American  foreigners  was  now  fairly  commenced, 
and  it  became  necessary,  in  self-defence,  for  them  to  prosecute 
what  they  had  begun,  with  vigor.  The  party  being  increase.! 
to  tliirty-tluce  men,  still  under  the  command  of  Mr.  Merriti. 
marched  directly  to  Sonoma,  and  on  the  morning  of  the  14(1) 
of  June  captured  and  took  possession  of  that  town  and  militai)# 
post.  Iluiy  made  prisoners  here  of  Gen.  Gaudaloupe,  M.  Val- 
l6jo,  Lieut.-Col.  Prudon,  and  Capt.  Don  Salvador  Vallrjo. 

The  writer  from  whom  the  foregoing  facts  are  chiefly  com 


CAPTURE  OF  SONOMA  289 

piled,  who  was  a  member  of  the  party,  proceeds  to  say  :  that 
"  Sonoma  was  taken  without  a  struggle,  in  which  place  were 
nine  pieces  of  artillery,  about  two  hundred  stand  of  small-arms, 
(public  property.)  There  was  also  a  large  amount  of  private 
property  and  considerable  money.  A  single  man  cried  out, 
*  Let  us  divide  the  spoils,'  but  a  unanimous  indignant  frown 
made  him  shrink  from  the  presence  of  honest  men ;  and  from 
that  time  forward  no  man  dared  to  hint  any  thing  like  violating 
the  siinctity  of  a  private  house  or  private  property.  So  far  did 
they  carry  this  principle,  that  they  were  unwilling  to  take  the 
beef  which  was  offered  by  the  prisoners.  General  Vallejc 
sent  for  his  cahallada  and  offered  them  fresh  horses,  whicli 
were  accepted,  but  with  the  determination  of  remunerating  liini 
as  soon  as  the  new  government  should  be  established.  The 
party  was  composed  mostly  of  hunters,  and  such  men  as  could 
leave  home  at  the  shortest  notice.  They  had  not  time  to  dress, 
even  if  they  had  had  fine  clothes,  so  that  most  of  them  were 
dressed  in  leather  hunting-shirts.  Taking  the  whole  party  to- 
gether, they  were  about  as  rough-looking  a  set  of  men  as  could 
be  imagined.  It  is  not  tc  be  wondered  at  that  one  should  feel 
some  dread  of  falling  into  theu"  hands,  but  the  prisoners,  instead 
of  being  dragged  away  with  rough  hands  and  harsh  treatment, 
met  with  nothing  but  the  kindest  of  treatment  a»id  the  most 
polite  attentions  from  the  whole  party ;  and  in  fact,  before  five 
hours'  ride  from  their  homes  they  seemed  to  feel  all  confidence, 
and  conversed  freely  on  the  subject  of  the  establishment  of  a 
better  government  gi\ing  their  opinions  and  their  plans  without 
any  apparent  restraint. 

"  The  writer  cannot  leave  this  part  of  the  subject  without 
telling  an  anecdote,  which  will  illustrate  the  character  of  one 
of  the  actors  in  this  scene.  A  year  or  two  previous,  one  of  the 
prisoners,  (Salvador  Vallejo,)  in  an  official  capacity,  had  fallen 
in  with  Mr.  Merritt,  the  leader  of  the  revolutionary  party,  and  un- 
der^ the  pretence  that  Mr.  Merritt  had  harbored  a  runaway  man- 
of-war's  man,  beat  him  severely  with  his  sword.  VVitli  all  the 
keen  resentment  of  a  brave  man,  Mr.  Merritt  suddenlj  found  this 
tame  man  in  his  power.     The  blood  rushed  to  his  cheeks,  and 

25 


290  PROCLAMATION  OF  IDE 

his  eyes  sparkled ;  he  leaned  forward  like  a  mad  tiger  in  the  act 
of  springing  upon  his  prey,  and  in  an  energetic  but  manly  tone, 
said :  *  When  I  was  your  prisoner,  you  struck  me ;  now  you  are 
my  prisoner,  I  will  not  strike  you.'  The  motives  which  had 
prompted  him  to  act  in  the  present  contest,  were  too  high,  too 
holy  to  permit  him  for  a  moment  to  suffer  his  private  feeUngs 
to  bias  him  in  his  public  duties.  However  able  may  be  the 
pen  which  shall  record  these  events,  none  but  those  who  have 
witnessed  the  moderation  and  discreet  deportment  of  the  Uttle 
garrison  left  at  Sonoma,  can  do  them  justice ;  for  there  has  been 
no  time  in  the  history  of  the  world,  where  men  without  law, 
without  officers,  without  the  scratch  of  a  pen,  as  to  the  object 
had  in  view,  have  acted  with  that  degree  of  moderation  and 
strict  observance  of  tlie  rights  of  persons  and  property  as  was 
witnessed  on  this  occasion.  Their  children,  in  generations  yet 
to  come,  will  look  back  witli  pleasure  upon  the  commencement 
of  a  revolution  carried  on  by  their  fathers,  upon  principles  high 
and  holy  as  the  laws  of  eternal  justice." 

A  small  garrison  was  left  at  Sonoma,  consisting  of  about 
eighteen  men,  imder  command  of  William  B.  Ide,  which  in  the 
course  of  a  few  days  was  increased  to  about  forty.  On  the 
1 8th  of  June,  Mr.  Ide,  by  the  consent  of  the  garrison,  published 
a  proclamation,  setting  forth  the  objects  for  which  the  party 
had  gathered,  and  the  principles  which  would  be  adhered  to  in 
tlie  event  of  their  success. 


"  A  Proclamation  to  all  persons  and  citizens  of  the  district  of  So- 
noma, requesting  them  to  remain  at  peace,  and  follow  their 
rightful  occupations  'without  fear  of  molestation. 

"  The  Cominandpr-in-chicf  of  the  troops  assembled  at  the  fortress  of  So- 
noma, gives  his  inviolable  pledge  to  all  persons  in  California,  not  found  un- 
der arms,  that  they  shall  not  be  disturbed  in  their  persons,  their  property,  or 
Hociul  relations,  one  with  another,  by  men  under  his  command. 

"  He  also  solemnly  declares  his  object  to  bo,  first,  to  defend  himself  and 
•:f>mpanionH  in  arms,  who  were  invited  to  this  country  by  a  promise  of  laudr 
on  which  to  settle  tlKiniselves  and  familien  ;  who  were  also  promised  a  Re- 
publican Government,  when  having  arrived  iu  California  the^  *fero  denied  the 
orivilcge  of   buying  or  renting  lauds  of  their  friends  ;  who,  iufitead  of  beinc 


MURDER  OF  COWIE  AND  FOWLER.  291 

Allowed  to  participate  in  or  being  protected  by  a  Republican  Government, 
were  oppressed  by  a  military  despotism  ;  who  were  even  threatened  by  proc- 
lamation, by  the  chief  officers  of  the  aforesaid  despotism,  with  extermina- 
tion if  they  should  not  depart  out  of  the  country,  leaving  all  their  property, 
arms,  and  beasts  of  burden  ;  and  thus  deprived  of  their  means  of  flight  oi 
defence,  we  were  to  be  driven  through  deserts  inhabited  by  hostile  Indians, 
to  certain  destruction. 

"  To  overthrow  a  government  which  has  seized  upon  the  property  of  the 
missions  for  its  individual  aggrandizement ;  which  has  ruined  and  shamefully 
oppressed  the  laboring  people  of  California,  by  their  enormous  exactions  on 
goods  imported  into  the  country,  is  the  determined  purpose  of  the  brave 
men  who  are  associated  under  my  command. 

"  I  also  solemnly  declare  my  object,  in  the  second  place,  to  be  to  invite 
all  peaceable  and  good  citizens  of  California,  who  are  friendly  to  the  main- 
tenance of  good  order  and  equal  rights,  and  I  do  hereby  invite  them  to 
repair  to  my  camp  at  Sonoma,  without  delay,  to  assist  lis  in  establishing  and 
perpetuating  a  Republican  Government,  which  shall  secure  to  all  civil  and 
rehgious  liberty  ;  which  shall  encourage  virtue  and  literature  ;  which  shall 
leave  unshackled  by  fetters,  agriculture,  commerce,  and  manufactures. 

"  I  further  declare  that  I  rely  upon  the  rectitude  of  our  intentions,  the 
favor  of  Heaven,  and  the  bravery  of  those  who  are  bound  and  associated  with 
me,  by  the  principles  of  self-preservation,  by  the  love  of  truth,  and  the 
hatred  of  tyranny,  for  my  hopes  of  success. 

"  I  furthermore  declare,  that  I  believe  that  a  government  to  be  prosper- 
ous and  happy,  must  originate  with  the  people  who  are  friendly  to  its  ex- 
istence ;  that  the  citizens  are  its  guardians,  the  officers  its  servants,  itg 
glory  its  reward. 

(Signed,)  William  B.  Ids 

"  Headqueirters,  Sonoma,  June  18th,  1846." 

"  About  the  time  the  foregoing  proclamation  was  issued,  two 
yoimg  men,  Mr.  T.  Cowie  and  Mr.  Fowler,  who  lived  m  the 
neighborhood  of  Sonoma,  started  to  go  to  the  Bodega.  On 
their  way  they  were  discovered  by  a  small  party  of  Californians, 
under  the  command  of  one  Padilla,  and  taken  prisoners.  They 
were  kept  as  prisoners  for  a  day  and  a  half,  and  then  tied  to  trees 
and  cut  to  pieces  in  the  most  brutal  manner.  A  Californian, 
known  as  Four-fingered  Jack,  was  subsequently  captured,  and 
gave  the  following  account  of  that  horrid  scene : — The  party, 
after  keeping  the  prisoners  a  day  or  two,  tied  them  to  trees, 
and  stoned  them.  One  of  them  had  his  jaw  broken.  A  riata 
(rope)  was  then  made  fast  to  the  broken  bone,  and  the  jaw 


292  BATTLE    OF   SA^   RAFAEL. 

dragged  out.  They  were  then  cut  up  by  piecemeal,  and 
the  jDieces  thrown  at  them,  or  crammed  into  their  throats. 
They  were  finally  dispatched  by  cutting  out  their  bowels! 

"Fortimately  for  Jiumanity,  these  cold-blooded,  savage  mui- 
ders  were  soon  put  to  an  end,  by  the  very  active  measuiL.) 
taken  by  the  garrison  at  Sonoma.  Having  heard  nothing  oi 
the  anival  of  Cowie  and  Fowler  at  their  place  of  destination,  it 
was  suspected  that  they  had  been  taken  and  probably  kUled  ; 
and  hearing  that  three  others  were  prisoners  in  Padilla's  camp. 
Captain  Ford  (then  1st  lieutenant  at  Sonoma)  headed  a  party 
of  twenty-two  men,  ofiScers  included,  and. took  the  road  for  the 
enemy's  camp,  which  had  been  reinforced  by  Captain  Joaquin 
de  la  Torre,  with  seventy  men.  It  was  reported  that  their 
headquarters  were  at  Santa  Rosa  Plains,  to  which  point  Ford 
proceeded.  Finding  that  they  had  left,  he  followed  them  in  the 
direction  of  San  Rafael ;  and  after  travelling  all  night,  making 
about  sixty  miles  in  sixteen  hours,  came  up  with  the  enemy  twelve 
rrdles  from  San  Rafael,  where  they  had  stopped  to  breakfast. 

"  The  enemy  occupied  a  position  at  a  house  on  the  edge  oi 
the  plains,  about  sixty  yards  fiom  a  small  grove  of  brushwood. 
Captain  Ford,  having  several  prisoners,  left  four  men  to  guard 
them,  and  with  the  remainder  advanced  upon  the  enemy. 
Reaching  the  brushwood,  he  dii'ected  his  party  to  tie  their 
horses,  and  take  such  positions  as  would  cut  off  the  Califomians, 
but  by  no  means  to  fire  until  they  could  kill  their  man ;  which 
order  was  so  well  obeyed,  that  out  of  twenty  or  twenty-five 
shots  fired  by  the  Americans,  eleven  took  effect.  Eig]\t  of  the 
enemy  were  killed,  two  wounded,  and  one  horse  shot  through 
the  neck.  One  party  of  the  Californians,  led  by  a  sergeant, 
charged  up  handsomely ;  but  the  deadly  fire  of  Ford's  riflemen 
forced  them  to  retire,  with  the  loss  of  the  sergeant  and  several 
of  his  men.  The  fall  of  the  sergeant  seemed  to  be  the  signal 
for  retreat.  The  whole  party  retired  to  a  liigh  hill,  about  a 
mile  from  tlie  field  of  battle.  Ford  and  his  gallant  followers 
waited  a  short  time,  and  finding  that  the  enemy  showed  no 
disposition  to  return  to  the  fght,  released  the  prisoners  who 
had  been  taken  by  them,  ana    hen  went  to  a  coiTal,  where  thej 


CASTRo's  PROCLAMATION.  293 

found  a  larfje  cahallada  of  liorses,  and  exchanged  their  tired 
horses  for  fresh  ones.  They  then  returned  to  Sonoma.  The 
Cahfornians,  on  this  occasion,  did  not  sustain  the  reputation 
they  had  previously  gained.  They  were  eighty-six  strong, 
while  Captain  Ford  had  but  eighteen  men  engaged." 

Captain  Fremont  having  heard  that  Don  Jose  Castro  was 
crossing  the  bay  with  200  men,  marched  and  joined  the  garrison 
at  Sonoma,  on  the  25th  of  June.  Several  days  were  spent  in 
active  pursuit  of  the  party  imder  Captain  De  la  Torre,  but  they 
succeeded  in  crossing  the  bay  before  they  could  be  overtaken. 
With  the  retreat  of  De  la  Torre,  ended  all  opposition  on  the 
north  side  of  the  bay  of  San  Francisco. 

On  the  1 7th  June,  after  the  receipt  of  the  news  of  the  taking 
of  Sonoma,  Don  Jose  Castro  issued  two  proclamations,  one  ad- 
dressed to  the  old  citizens,  and  the  other  to  the  new  citizens  and 
foreigners.    The  following  are  translations  of  these  proclamations : 

The  citizen  Jose  Castro,  lieutenant-colonel  of  cavalry  in  the  Mexican 
army,  and  acting  general-commander  of  the  department  of  California. 

FelloiD-cMzens : — The  contemptible  policy  of  the  agents  of  the  United 
States  of  North  America,  in  this  department,  has  induced  a  portion  of  ad- 
venturers, who,  regardless  of  the  rights  of  men,  have  daringly  commenced 
an  invasion,  possessing  themselves  of  the  town  of  Sonoma,  taking  by  surprise 
all  that  place,  the  military  commander  of  that  border,  Colonel  Don  Mariano 
Guadaloupe  Vallejo,  Lieutenant-colonel  Don  Victor  Prudon,  Captain  Don 
Salvador  Valldjo,  and  Mr.  Jacob  P.  Leese. 

Fellow-countrymen — The  defence  of  our  liberty,  the  true  religion  which 
our  fathers  possessed,  and  our  independence,  calls  upon  us  to  sacrifice  our- 
selves, rather  than  lose  these  inestimable  blessings  ;  banish  from  your  heeirts 
all  petty  resentments,  turn  you,  and  behold  yourselves,  these  families,  these 
innocent  little  ones,  which  have  unfortunately  fallen  into  the  hands  of  our 
enemies,  dragged  from  the  bosoms  of  their  fathers,  who  are  prisoners  among 
foreigners,  and  are  calling  upon  us  to  succor  them.  There  is  still  time  for 
us  to  rise  "  en  masse,"  as  irresistible  as  retributive.  You  need  not  doubt 
but  that  divine  providence  will  direct  us  in  the  way  to  glory.  You  should 
not  vacillate  because  of  the  smallness  of  the  garrison  of  the  general  head- 
quarters, for  he  who  first  will  sacrifice  himself  will  be  your  friend  and  fellow- 
citizen.  JOSE  CASTRO. 

HEADauARTERS,  Sa.n'ta  Clara,  Juue  17th,  1846. 

Citizen  Jose  Castro,  lieutenant-colonel  of  artillery  iu  the  Mexican  amay, 
and  acting  general -conmiander  of  the  department  of  Upper  California. 

26* 


294  RAISING  OF  U.  S.  FLAO. 

All  foreigners  residing  among  us,  occupied  with  their  business,  may  res! 
assured  of  the  protection  of  all  the  authorities  of  the  department,  whilst  thev 
refrain  entirely  from  all  levolutionary  movements. 

The  general  commandaucia  under  my  charge  will  never  proceed  with 
vigor  against  any  persons,  neither  will  its  authority  result  in  mere  words, 
wanting  proof  to  support  it ;  declaration  shall  be  takeu,  proofs  executed,  and 
the  hberty  and  rights  of  the  laborious,  which  is  ever  commendable,  shall  be 
irotiected. 

Let  the  fortune  of  war  take  its  chance  with  those  ungrateful  men,  who, 
vith  arms  in  their  hands,  have  attacked  the  country,  without  recollecting 
.hey  were  treated  by  the  undersigned  with  all  the  indulgence  of  which  he 
is  so  characteristic.  The  imparative  inhabitants  of  the  department  are  wit- 
nesses to  the  truth  of  this.  I  have  nothing  to  fear — my  duty  leads  me  to 
death  or  to  victory.  I  am  a  Mexican  soldier,  and  I  will  be  free  and  inde- 
pendent, or  I  will  gladly  die  for  these  inestimable  blessings. 

JOSE  CASTRO. 

HEADaoARTERs,  Santa  Cl^uia,  Juno  17th,  1846. 

Captain  Fremont,  with  about  170  men,  after  the  retreat  or 
De  la  Torre,  retm-aed,  \aa  Sonoma,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  de 
Ids  Americanos,  near  Sutter's  Fort,  for  the  purpose  of  crossing 
his  horses  and  baggage  at  that  point,  and  then  marching  to  Santa 
Clara,  understood  to  be  the  headquarters  of  General  Castro. 

A  small  party  of  ten  men  commanded  by  R.  Semple  was 
ordered  to  cross  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  to  the  town  of  San 
Francisco,  and  if  practicable  to  maVe  prisoner  the  captain  of  the 
Port,  Mr.  R.  T.  Ridley.  This  service  was  performed,  and  Mr 
Ridley  was  conveyed  to  New  Helvetia,  where  the  other  pris 
oners  were  confined.  The  party  reached  New  Helvetia  on  the 
eighth  of  July. 

Commodore  Sloat  arrived  at  Monterey  in  the  United  States 
Frigate  Savannah,  on  the  second  of  July.  He  had  heard  of  the 
first  dilTiculties  between  the  Mexican  and  the  United  States 
forces  on  tlie  Rio  Gnmde,  at  Mazatlan,  but  had  not  heard  of 
the  declaration  of  Congress  that  war  existed.  On  the  seventh 
of  July  he  determined  to  hoist  the  American  flag  in  Monterey, 
which  act  was  performed  by  Capt.  Mervine,  commanding  250 
marines  and  seamen.  After  the  raising  of  the  flag,  amidst  tlie 
cheers  of  the  troops  and  foreigners  present,  a  salute  of  twenty- 
one  guns  was   fired  by  all  the  ships  in  the  harbor,  and   the 


COM.  8L0AT  S  PROCLAMATION.  295 

following  proclamation  was  read  and  posted  in  English  and 
Spanish : 

TO    THE    INHABITANTS    OF    CALIFORNIA. 

The  central  government  of  Mexico  having  commenced  hostilities  against 
Ihe  United  States  of  America,  by  invading  its  territory,  and  attacking  the 
troops  of  the  United  States  stationed  on  the  north  side  of  the  Rio  Grande, 
and  with  a  force  of  7000  men  under  the  command  of  Gen.  Arista,  which 
army  was  totally  destroyed,  and  all  their  artillery,  baggage,  &c.,  captured 
on  the  eighth  and  ninth  of  May  last,  by  a  force  of  2300  men,  under  the 
command  of  Gen.  Taylor,  and  the  city  of  Matamoras  taken  and  occupied 
by  the  forces  of  the  United  States,  and  the  two  nations  being  actually  at 
war  by  this  transaction,  I  shall  hoist  the  standard  of  the  United  States  at 
Monterey  immediately,  and  shall  carry  it  throughout  California. 

I  declare  to  the  inhabitants  of  California,  that,  although  I  come  in  arma 
with  a  powerful  force,  I  do  not  come  among  them  as  an  enemy  to  Califor- 
nia :  on  the  contrary,  I  come  as  their  best  freind,  as  henceforth  California 
will  be  a  portion  of  the  United  States,  and  its  peaceable  inhabitants  will 
enjoy  the  same  rights  and  privileges  they  now  enjoy,  together  with  the 
privilege  of  choosing  their  own  magistrates,  and  other  officers  for  the  ad- 
ministration of  justice  among  themselves,  and  the  same  protection  will  be 
extended  to  them  as  to  any  other  State  in  the  Union.  They  will  also  enjoy 
a  permanent  government,  under  which  life,  property,  and  the  constitutional 
right  and  lawful  security  to  worship  the  Creator  in  the  way  most  congenial 
to  each  one's  sense  of  duty,  will  be  secured,  which,  unfortunately,  the 
central  government  of  Mexico  cannot  afford  them,  destroyed  as  her  re- 
sources are  by  internal  factions  and  corrupt  officers,  who  create  constant 
revolutions  to  promote  their  own  interests  and  oppress  the  people.  Under 
the  flag  of  the  United  States,  California  will  be  free  from  all  such  troubles 
uiid  expenses  ;  consequently,  the  country  will  rapidly  advance  and  improve 
t>oth  in  agriculture  and  commerce,  as,  of  course,  the  revenue  laws  will  be  the 
sume  in  California  as  in  all  other  parts  of  the  United  States,  affijrding  them 
:ill  manufactures  and  produce  of  the  United  States,  free  of  any  duty,  and 
(dl  foreign  goods  at  one  quarter  of  the  duty  they  now  pay.  A  great  in- 
crease in  the  value  of  real  estate  and  the  products  of  California  may  also 
be  anticipated. 

With  the  great  interest  and  kind  feelings  I  know  the  government  and 
people  of  the  United  States  possess  towards  the  citizens  of  California,  the 
country  cannot  but  improve  more  rapidly  than  any  other  on  the  continent 
of  America. 

Such  of  the  inhabitants  of  California,  whether  native  or  foreigners,  aa 
may  not  be  disposed  to  accept  the  high  privileges  of  citizenship,  and  to  live 
peaceably  under  the  government  of  the  United  States,  will  be  allowed  time 


296  FLAG  RAISED  AT  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

to  dispose  of  their  property,  and  to  raraove  out  of  the  country,  if  they 
choose,  without  any  restriction  ;  or  remain  in  it,  observing  strict  neutrality. 

With  full  confidence  in  the  honor  and  integrity  of  the  inhabitants  of  the 
country,  I  invite  the  judges,  alcaldes,  and  other  civil  officers,  to  execute 
their  functions  as  heretofore,  that  tlie  public  tranquillity  may  not  be  dis- 
turbed ;  at  least  until  the  government  of  the  territory  can  be  more  definitely 
arranged. 

All  persons  holding  titles  to  real  estate,  or  in  quiet  possession  of  lauds 
under  color  of  right,  shall  have  those  titles  guarantied  to  them. 

All  churches  and  the  property  they  contain  in  possession  of  the  clergy  of 
California,  siiall  continue  in  the  same  rights  and  possession  they  now  enjoy. 

All  provisions  and  supplies  of  every  kind  furnished  by  the  inhabitants  for 
the  use  of  the  United  States  ships  and  soldiers,  will  be  paid  for  at  fair  rates  ; 
and  no  private  property  will  be  taken  for  public  use  without  just  compensa- 
tion at  the  moment. 

JOHN  D.  SLOAT, 
Commander-in-chief  of  the  U.  S.  Naval  force  in  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

On  tlie  sixth  of  July,  Commodore  Sloat  dispatched  a  cou- 
rier to  Commander  Montgomery  of  the  sloop-of-war  Ports- 
mouth, lying  at  San  Francisco,  notifying  him  of  his  intention 
to  hoist  the  American  flag  at  Monterey,  and  requiring  him, 
if  his  force  was  sufficient,  to  do  the  same  at  San  Francisco  and 
elsewhere  in  the  upper  portion  of  the  territory.  On  the  morn- 
ing of  the  eighth.  Com.  Montgomery  at  the  head  of  seventy 
sailors  and  marines  landed  and  hoisted  the  American  flag  in  the 
pubUc  square,  under  a  salute  of  twenty-one  guns  from  the 
Portsmouth.  A  volunteer  corps  of  American  foreigners  was  im- 
mediately oiganized  for  the  defence  of  the  place. 

On  the  tenth,  a  flag  dispatched  by  Com.  Montgomery  to 
Sonoma  was  i-eceived  and  raised  there  with  shouts  of  satisfac- 
uon  from  the  revolutionary  garrison.  The  United  States  flag 
was  scjon  after  unfurled,  witliout  serious  opposition,  at  every 
principal  place  in  the  northern  part  of  California. 

On  the  eighth,  the  next  day  after  the  raising  of  the  United 
States  flag  at  Monterey,  Purser  Fauntleroy,  of  the  Savannah, 
was  ordered  to  oiganize  a  company  of  dragoons,  volunteers 
from  the  ships  and  citizens  on  shore,  tc  reconnoitre  the  country 
and  keep  the  communication  open  between  Monterey  and  the 
more  northern  posts,  m  possession  of  tue  Americana.     On  the 


2 

J 


Los  ANGELES  TAKEN.  ^^ 

seventeenth,  this  corps  marched  to  the  Mission  of  San  Jiian, 
about  thirty  miles  east  of  Monterey,  for  the  purpose  of  raising 
at  that  place  the  United  States  flag,  and  of  taking  possession  of 
guns  and  other  munitions  said  to  have  been  concealed  there. 

Capt.  Fremont  ha\ing  left  his  position  on  the  Sacramento  on 
ihe  twelfth,  had  reached  San  Juan  about  an  hour  before  Purser 
Fauntleroy,  and  taken  possession  of  the  Mission  without  oppo- 
sition. There  were  found  here  9  pieces  of  cannon,  200  old 
muskets,  20  kegs  of  powder,  and  60,000  pounds  of  cannon-shot. 
Both  parties  marched  into  Monterey  the  next  day. 

The  fortification  of  Monterey  was  commenced  immediately 
after  the  raising  of  the  United  States  flag.  On  the  twenty-thh'd. 
Com.  Sloat  sailed  in  the  Levant  for  the  United  States,  via  Pa- 
nama, leaving  Com.  Stockton,  who  had  arrived  at  Monterey  in 
the  Congress  on  the  fifteenth,  in  command  of  the  Pacific  squad- 
ron. Immediately  after,  the  Cyane,  Com.  Dupont,  with  Capt. 
Fremont  and  volunteers  on  board,  sailed  for  San  Diego,  and 
the  frigate  Congress,  Com.  Stockton,  sailed  for  San  Pedro,  the 
port  of  Los  Angeles,  the  then  capital  of  California.  The 
frigate  Savannah  remained  at  Monterey,  and  the  sloop  Ports- 
mouth at  San  Francisco, 

Gen.  Castro  in  the  mean  time  had  formed  a  jimction  at  Santa 
Barbara  with  Gov,  Pio  Pico,  their  joint  forces  numbering  about 
600.  From  Santa  Barbara  they  marclied  to  Los  Angeles, 
arriving  at  that  place  early  in  August.  Capt.  Fremont  with 
the  volunteers  landed  at  San  Diego  about  tlie  same  time,  San 
Diego  is  130  miles  south  of  Los  Angeles,  and  Com,  Stockton 
landed  his  force  of  marines  and  sailors  from  the  Congress  at 
San  Pedro.  Com.  Stockton  marched  immediately  towards 
Los  Angeles,  hauling  his  artillery  with  oxen.  As  he  approached 
the  camp  of  the  enemy  on  the  Mesa,  they  fled  with  precipita- 
tion and  without  making  any  resistance.  The  Commodore 
marched  into  the  city  of  Angels  and  took  possession  of  it  and 
the  public  property  witliout  opposition.  Capt,  Fremont,  owing 
to  the  difiiculty  of  procuring  horses,  did  not  arrive  at  Los  Angelea 
until  several  days  after  the  occupation  of  the  town  by  Com. 
Stockton.     Castro  with  a  few  followers  fled  to  Sonera. 


COM.  Stockton's    roclamation. 

On  the  17th  of  August  Commodore  Stockton  issued  the  foi 
lowing  proclamation,  declaring  California  in  the  full  and  peace- 
able possession  of  the  United  States,  and  authorizing  and  re- 
questing  the  election  of  civil  officers  throughout  the  country, 

TO  THE  PEOPLE  OF  CALIFORNIA. 

On  my  approach  to  this  place  with  the  forces  under  my  command, 
Jos^  Castro,  the  commaudant-general  of  California,  buried  his  artillery  and 
abandoned  his  fortified  camp  "  of  the  Mesa,"  and  fled,  it  is  believed,  towards 
Mexico. 

With  the  sailors,  the  marinas,  and  the  California  battalion  of  mounted 
riflemen,  we  entered  the  "  City  of  the  Angeles,"  the  capital  of  California, 
on  the  13th  of  August,  and  hoisted  the  North  American  flag. 

The  flag  of  the  United  States  is  now  flying  from  every  commanding 
position  in  the  territorj',  and  California  is  entirely  free  from  Mexican  do- 
minion. 

The  territory  of  California  now  belongs  to  the  United  States,  and  will  be 
governed,  as  soon  as  circumstances  may  permit,  by  oflicers  and  laws  similar 
to  those  by  which  the  other  territories  of  the  United  States  are  regulated 
and  protected. 

But,  until  the  governor,  the  secretary,  and  council  are  appointed,  and  the 
various  civil  departments  of  the  government  are  arranged,  military  law  will 
prevail,  and  the  commander-in-chief  will  be  the  governor  and  protector  of 
the  territory. 

In  the  mean  time  the  people  will  be  permitted,  and  are  now  requested,  to 
meet  in  their  several  towns  and  departments,  at  such  time  and  place  as 
they  may  see  fit,  to  elect  civil  ofiicers  to  fill  the  places  of  those  who  decline 
to  continue  in  office,  and  to  administer  the  laws  according  to  the  former 
usages  of  the  territory. 

In  all  cases  where  the  people  fail  to  elect,  the  konmiander-in-chief  anH 
governor  will  make  the  appointments  himself 

All  persons,  of  whatever  relimon  or  nation,  who  faithfully  adhere  to  the 
new  govPDuiient,  will  be  considered  as  citizens  of  the  territory,  and  will  be 
zealously  and  thoroughly  protected  in  the  liberty  of  conscience,  their  persons, 
and  property. 

No  [jcrsons  will  be  permitted  to  remain  in  the  territory  who  do  not  agree 
to  support  the  existing  government ;  and  all  military  men  who  desire  to 
remain,  arc  required  to  take  an  oath  that  tiiey  will  not  take  up  arma 
against  it,  or  do  or  say  any  thing  :.  disturb  its  peace. 

Nor  will  any  i)fTs(>ns,  come  fiom  where  tney  may,  be  permitted  to  settle 
in  the  territory,  who  do  not  pledge  thei  iselves  to  bo,  in  all  respects,  obedient 
to  the  laws  which  may  bo  from  time  t  time  enacted  by  the  proper  authori 
tiM  of  tiM  territory. 


RESUME  JOURNET.  299 

AD  personB  vh),  without  special  permission,  are  found  with  arms,  outside 
•f  their  own  houses,  will  be  considered  as  enemies,  aud  will  be  shipped  out 
of  the  country. 

Air  thieves  will  be  put  to  hard  labor  on  the  public  works,  and  there  kept< 
until  compensation  is  made  for  the  property  stolen. 

The  California  battalion  of  mounted  riflemen  will  be  kept  in  the  service 
of  the  territory,  and  constantly  on  duty,  to  prevent  and  punish  any  aggres- 
sions by  the  Indians,  or  any  other  persons,  upon  the  property  of  individuals, 
or  the  peace  of  the  territory ;  and  California  shall  hereafter  be  so  governed 
and  defended  as  to  give  security  to  the  inhabitants,  and  to  defy  the  power 
of  Mexico. 

All  persons  are  required,  as  long  as  the  territory  is  under  martial  law,  to 
be  within  their  houses  from  ten  o'clock  at  night  until  sunrise  in  the  morning 

R.  F.  STOCKTON, 
Commander-in-Chief,  and  Governor 

of  the  Territory  of  California. 

ClODAD    DB    LOS    AnGELKS,  ) 

August  nth,  1846.       ) 


CHAPTER   XXIV. 

Resume  my  travels — Leave  New  Helvetia  for  San  Francisco — Cos^umne 
river — Mick^lemes  river — Ford  of  the  San  Joaquin — Extensive  plain — 
Tule  marshes — Large  droves  of  wild  horses  and  elk — Arrive  at  Dr. 
Marsh's — Vineyard — Californiau  grape — Californian  wine — Aguardiente 
— Mormon  settlements  on  the  San  Joaquin — Californian  beef — 
Cattle — Grasses  of  California — Horses — Breakfast — Leave  Dr.  Marsh's 
— Arrive  at  Mr.  Livermore's — Comforts  of  his  dwelling — Large  herds  of 
cattle — Sheep — Swine — Californian  senora — Slaughtering  of  a  bullock 
— Fossil  oyster-shells — Skeleton  of  a  whale  on  a  high  mountain — Arrive 
at  mission  of  San  3os6 — Ruinous  and  desolate  appearance  of  the  mission 
— Pedlers — Landlady — Filth — Gardens  of  the  mission — Fruit  orchards — 
Empty  warehouses  and  workshops — Foul  lodgings. 

September  13th. — We  commenced  to-day  our  journey  from 
New  Helvetia  to  San  Francisco.  Our  party  consisted,  in- 
cluding myself,  of  Colonel  Russell,  Dr.  McKee  of  Monterey, 
Mr.  Pickett,  a  traveller  in  the  countrj^  recently  from  OregoU; 
and  an  Indian  servant,  who  had  been  furnished  us  by  Captain 


300  TRIBUTARIES  OF  8ACRAIfBMT0. 

Sutter.  Starting  about  three  o'clock,  p.  m.,  we  tra  •,  lied  in  a 
south  course  over  a  flat  plain  until  sunset,  and  encamped  near 
a  small  lake  on  the  rancho  of  Mr.  Murphy,  near  the  CosQumne 
river,  a  tributary  of  the  Sacramento,  which  heads  near  the  foot 
of  the  Sierra  Nevada.  The  stream  is  small,  but  the  bottom- 
lands are  extensive  and  rich.  Mr.  Mmphy  has  been  settled  in 
California  about  two  years,  and,  with  his  wife  and  several  chil- 
dren, has  resided  at  this  place  sixteen  months,  during  which 
time  he  has  erected  a  comfortable  dwelling-house,  and  other 
necessary  buildmgs  and  conveniences.  His  wheat  crop  was 
abundant  this  year ;  and  he  presented  us  with  as  much  milk 
and  fresh  butter  as  we  desired.  The  grass  on  the  upland  plain 
over  which  we  have  travelled,  is  brown  and  crisp  from  the 
annual  drought.  In  the  low  bottom  it  is  still  green.  Distance 
18  mUes. 

September  14. — We  crossed  the  CosQumne  river  about  a 
mile  from  our  camp,  and  travelled  over  a  level  plain  covered 
with  luxuriant  grass  and  timbered  with  the  evergreen  oak,  imtil 
three  o'clock,  when  we  crossed  the  Mickelemes  river,  another 
tributary  of  the  Sacramento,  and  encamped  on  its  southern 
bank  in  a  beautiful  grove  of  live-oaks.  The  Mickelemes,  where 
we  crossed  it,  is  considerably  larger  than  the  Coscumnes.  The 
soil  of  the  bottom  appears  to  be  very  rich,  and  produces  the 
finest  qualities  of  grasses.  The  grass  on  the  upland  is  also 
abundant,  but  at  this  time  it  is  brown  and  dead.  We  passed 
through  large  tracts  of  wild  oats  during  the  day ;  the  stalks 
are  generally  from  three  to  five  feet  in  length. 

Our  Indian  servant,  or  vaquero,  feigned  sickness  this  morning, 
and  we  discharged  him.  As  soon  as  he  obtained  his  discharge, 
lie  was  entiicly  iclieved  from  the  excruciating  agonies  under 
which  he  had  affected  to  be  suffering  for  several  hours.  Eat- 
ing his  breakfast,  and  mounting  his  horse,  he  galloped  off  in 
the  direction  of  the  fort.  We  overtook  this  afternoon  an  Eng- 
lish sailor,  naintid  jack,  who  was  travelling  towards  Monterey ; 
and  we  employed  him  as  cook  and  hostler  for  the  remainder  of 
the  journey. 

A  variety  of  autumnal  llowers,  generally  of  a  brilliant  yellow 


SAN  JOAQUIN  RIVE&.  301 

ire  in  bloom  along  the  beautiful  and  romantic  banks  of  the 
riv"ulet.     Distance  25  miles. 

September  15. — Our  horses  were  frightened  last  night  by 
bears,  and  this  morning,  with  the  exception  of  those  which 
were  picketed,  had  straj'ed  so  far  that  we  did  not  recover  them 
until  ten  o'clock.  Our  route  has  continued  over  a  flat  plain, 
generally  covered  with  luxuriant  grass,  wild  oats,  and  a  va- 
riety of  sparkling  flowers.  The  soil  is  composed  of  a  rich 
argillaceous  loam.  Large  tracts  of  the  land  are  evidently  sub- 
ject to  annual  inundations.  About  noon  we  reached  a  small 
lake  surrounded  by  tule.  There  being  no  trail  for  our  guidance, 
we  experienced  some  difficulty  in  shaping  our  course  so  as  to 
strike  the  San  Joaquin  river  at  the  usual  fording- place.  Our 
man  Jack,  by  some  neglect  or  mistake  of  his  own,  lost  sight  of 
us,  and  we  were  compelled  to  proceed  without  him.  This 
afternoon  we  saw  several  large  droves  of  antelope  and  deer. 
Garae  of  all  kinds  appears  to  be  very  abundant  in  this  rich 
valley.  Passing  through  large  tracts  of  tule  we  reached  the 
San  Joaquin  river  at  dark,  and  encamped  on  the  eastern  bank. 
Here  we  immediately  made  large  fires  and  discharged  pistols  as 
signals  to  our  man  Jack,  but  he  did  not  come  into  camp.  Dis- 
tance 35  mOes. 

September  16. — Jack  came  into  camp  while  we  were  break- 
fasting, leading  his  tired  horse.  He  had  bivouacked  on  the 
plain,  and  fearful  that  his  horse  would  break  loose  if  he  tied 
him,  he  held  the  animal  by  the  bridle  all  night. 

The  ford  of  the  San  Joaquin  is  about  forty  or  fifty  miles  from 
its  mouth.  At  this  season  the  water  is  at  its  lowest  stage.  The 
stream  at  the  ford  is  probably  one  hundred  yards  in  breadth, 
and  our  animals  crossed  it  without  much  difficulty,  the  water 
reaching  about  midway  of  their  bodies.  Oak  and  small  willows 
are  the  piincipal  growth  of  wood  skirting  the  river.  Soon  after 
we  crossed  the  San  Joaquin  this  morning  we  met  two  men, 
couriers,  bearing  dispatches  from  Commodore  Stockton,  the 
governor  and  commander-in-chief  in  California,  to  Sutter's  Fort. 
Entering  upon  the  broad  plain  we  passed,  in  about*  three  miles, 
a  small  lake,  the  water  of  which  was  so  much  impregnated 


302  WILD  HORSES — ELK 

with  alkali  as  to  be  undrinkable.  The  grass  is  brown  and 
crisp,  but  the  seed  upon  it  is  evidence  that  it  had  fully  matured 
before  the  drought  affected  it.  The  plain  is  fmTOwed  with  nu- 
merous deep  trails,  made  by  the  droves  of  wild  horses,  elk, 
deer,  and  antelope,  which  roam  over  and  graze  upon  it.  The 
hunting  sportsman  can  here  enjoy  his  favorite  pleasure  to  its 
fullest  extent. 

Having  determined  to  deviate  from  our  direct  course,  in  or- 
der to  Adsit  the  rancho  of  Dr.  Marsh,  we  parted  from  Messrs. 
McRee  and  Pickett  about  noon.  We  passed  diiring  the  after- 
noon several  tule  maishes,  with  which  the  plain  of  the  San 
Joaquin  is  dotted.  At  a  distance,  the  tule  of  these  marshes  pre- 
sents the  appearance  of  immense  fields  of  ripened  com.  The 
marshes  are  now  nearly  dry,  and  to  shorten  our  journey  we 
crossed  several  of  them  without  difficulty.  A  month  earlier, 
this  would  not  have  been  practicable,  i  I  have  but  little  doubt 
that  these  marshes  would  make  fine  rice  plantations,  and  pp" 
haps,  if  properly  drained,  they  might  produce  the  sugar-cane. 

Wliile  pursuihg  our  journey  we  frequently  saw  large  droves 
of  wild  horses  and  elk  grazing  quietly  upon  the  plain.  No 
spectacle  of  moving  life  can  present  a  more  animated  and  beau- 
tiful appearance  than  a  herd  of  wild  horses.  They  were  divided 
into  droves  of  some  one  or  two  hundred.  When  they  noticed 
us,  attracted  by  cuiiosity  to  discover  what  we  were,  they  woiUd 
start  and  run  almost  with  the  flcetness  of  the  wind  in  the  direc- 
tion towards  us.  But  arri\Tng  within  a  distance  of  two  hundred 
yards,  they  would  suddenly  halt,  and  after  bowing  their  necks 
into  graceful  curves,  and  looking  steadily  at  us  a  few  moments, 
with  loud  snortings  they  would  wheel  about  and  bound  away 
with  tlie  same  liglitning  speed.  These  evolutions  they  would 
repeat  several  times,  until  having  satisfied  their  curiosity,  they 
would  bid  us  a  final  acjicu,  and  disappear  behind  the  undula- 
tions of  the  plain. 

The  herds  of  elk  were  much  nore  numerous.  Some  of  them 
numbered  at  least  two  thousand,  and  with  their  immense  antlers 
presented,  when  running,  a  very  singular  and  picturesque  ap- 
peuraDCf.      We  ajjpioaclied  .some  of  these  herds  within  fifty 


OR.  marsh's  rancho.  303 

yardfa  before  they  took  the  alarm.  Beef  m  Cahfomia  is  so 
abundant,  and  of  so  fine  a  quality,  that  game  is  but  little  hunted, 
and  not  much  prized.  Hence  the  elk,  deer,  and  even  antelope, 
are  comparatively  very  tame,  and  rarely  rim  from  the  traveller, 
unless  he  rides  very  near  them.  Some  of  these  elk  are  as  large 
as  a  medium-sized  Mexican  mule. 

We  arrived  at  the  rancho  of  Dr.  Marsh  about  5  o'clock,  p.  m., 
greatly  fatigued  with  the  day's  ride.  The  residence  of  Dr.  M. 
is  romantically  situated,  near  the  foot  of  one  of  the  most  ele- 
vated mountains  in  the  range  separating  the  valley  of  the  San 
Joaquin  from  the  plain  surrounding  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco. 
It  is  called  "  Moimt  Diablo,"  and  may  be  seen  in  clear  weather 
a  great  distance.  The  dwelling  of  Dr.  M.  is  a  small  one-story 
house,  rudely  constructed  of  adobes,  and  divided  into  two  or 
three  apartments.  ^The  flooring  is  of  earth,  like  the  walls.  A 
table  or  two,  and  some  benches  and  a  bed,  are  all  the  furniture 
it  contains.  Such  are  the  privations  to  which  those  who  settle 
in  new  coxmtries  must  submit.  Dr.  M.  is  a  native  of  New  Eng- 
land, a  graduate  of  Harvard  University,  and  a  gentleman  of 
fine  natural  abilities  and  extensive  scientific  and  literaiy  acqmi-e- 
ments.  He  emigrated  to  California  some  seven  or  eight  j-eart 
since,  after  ha\ing  travelled  through  most  of  the  Mexican  States 
He  speaks  the  Spanish  language  fluently  and  correctly,  and  his 
accurate  knowledge  of  Mexican  institutions,  laws  and  customs, 
was  fully  displayed  in  his  conversation  in  regard  to  them.  He 
obtained  the  grant  of  land  upon  which  he  now  resides,  some 
ten  or  twelve  miles  square,  four  or  five  years  ago  ;  and  although 
he  has  been  constantly  harassed  by  the  wild  Indians,  who  have 
several  times  stolen  all  his  horses,  and  sometimes  numbers  of 
his  cattle,  he  has  succeeded  in  permanently  establishing  him- 
self. The  present  number  of  cattle  on  his  rancho  is  about  two 
thousand,  and  the  increase  of  the  present  year  he  estimates  at 
five  himdred. 

I  noticed  near  the  house  a  vegetable  garden,  with  the  usual 
variety  of  vegetables.  In  another  enclosure  was  the  com- 
mencement of  an  extensive  vineyard,  the  fruit  of  which  (now 
ripe)  exceeds  in  delicacy  of  flavor  any  grapes  which  I  have 


304  CALIFOR     IAN     GRAPE. 

ever  tasted.  This  grape  is  not  indigenous,  but  was  introduced 
by  the  padres,  when  they  first  estabhshed  themselves  in  the 
country.  The  soU  and  climate  of  Cahfornia  have  probably  im- 
proved it.  Many  of  the  clusters  are  eight  and  ten  inches  in 
length,  and  weigh  several  pounds.  The  fruit  is  of  medium 
size,  and  in  color  a  dark  purple.  The  rind  is  very  thin,  and 
when  broken  the  pulp  dissolves  in  the  mouth  immediately. 
Although  Dr.  M.  has  just  commenced  his  vineyard,  he  has 
made  several  casks  of  wine  this  year,  which  is  now  in  a  state 
of  fermentation.  I  tasted  here,  for  the  first  time,  aguardi- 
ente, or  brandy  distilled  from  the  Californian  grape.  Its  flavor 
is  not  unpleasant,  and  age,  I  do  not  doubt,  would  render  it 
'^qual  to  the  brandies  of  France.  Large  quantities  of  wine  and 
aguardiente  are  made  from  the  extensive  vineyards  farther 
south.  Dr.  M.  informed  me  that  his  lands  had  produced  a 
hundredfold  of  wheat  without  irrigation.  This  yield  seems 
almost  incredible  ;  but  if  we  can  believe  the  statements  of  men 
of  unimpeached  veracity,  there  have  been  numerous  instances 
of  reproduction  of  wheat  in  California  equalling  and  even 
exceeding  this. 

Some  time  in  July,  a  vessel  arrived  at  San  Francisco  from 
New  York,  which  had  been  chartered  and  freighted  princi- 
pally by  a  party  of  Mormon  emigrants,  numbering  between 
two  and  three  hundred,  women  and  children  included.  These 
Mormons  are  about  making  a  settlement  for  agricultural  pui*- 
poses,  on  the  San  Joaquin  river,  above  the  rancho  of  Dr. 
Marsh.  Two  of  the  women  and  one  of  the  men  are  now  here„ 
waiting  for  the  return  of  the  main  party,  which  has  gone  up 
the  river  to  explore  and  select  a  suitable  site  for  the  settlement. 
Tlie  women  are  young,  neatly  dressed,  and  one  of  them  may  be 
called  good-looking.  Captain  Gant,  formerly  of  the  U.  S. 
^irray,  in  very  bad  health,  is  i  Iso  residing  here.  He  has  crossed 
ihe  Rocky  Mountains  eight  times,  and,  in  various  trapping 
excursions,  has  explored  nea.  ly  every  river  between  the  settle- 
ments of  the  United  States  and  tlie  Pacific  ocean. 

The  house  of  Dr.  Marsli  being  fully  occupied,  we  made  our 
bedii  in  a  shed,  a  short  distance  fnmi  it.     Suspended  fn>m  on« 


CATTLE HORSES.  305 

of  the  poles  forming  the  frame  of  this  shed,  was  a  portion  of 
the  carcass  of  a  recently  slaughtered  beef.  The  meat  was  very 
fat,  the  muscular  portions  of  it  presenting  that  marbled  ap- 
pearance, produced  by  a  mixture  of  the  fat  and  lean,  so  agree- 
able to  the  sight  and  palate  of  the  epicure.  The  horned  cattle 
of  California  which  I  have  thus  far  seen,  are  the  largest  and  the 
handsomest  in  shape  which  I  ever  saw.  There  is  certainly  no 
breed  in  the  United  States  equalhng  them  in  size.  They,  as 
well  as  the  horses,  subsist  entirely  upon  the  indigenous  grasses, 
at  all  seasons  of  the  year  ;  and  such  are  the  nutritious  qualities 
of  the  herbage,  that  the  former  are  always  in  condition  for 
slaughtering,  and  the  latter  have  as  much  flesh  upon  them  as 
is  desirable,  unless  (which  is  often  the  case)  they  are  kept  up 
at  hard  work  and  denied  the  privilege  of  eating,  or  are  broken 
down  by  hard  riding.  The  varieties  of  grass  are  very  numer- 
ous, and  nearly  all  of  them  are  heavily  seeded  when  ripe,  and 
are  equal  if  not  superior,  as  food  for  animals,  to  com  and  oats. 
The  horses  are  not  as  largre  as  the  breeds  of  the  United  States, 
bat  in  point  of  symmetrical  proportions  and  in  capacity  for  en- 
durance, they  are  fully  equal  to  our  best  breeds.  The  distance 
we  have  travelled  to-day  I  estimate  at  thirty-five  miles. 

Sept.  17. — The  temperature  of  the  mornings  is  most  agree- 
able, and  every  other  phenomenon  accom-panying  it  is  corre- 
spondingly delightful  to  the  senses.  Our  breakfast  consisted  of 
warm  bread,  made  of  vmbolted  flour,  stewed  beef,  seasoned  with 
chile  Colorado,  a  species  of  red  pepper,  and  frijoles,  a  dark- 
colored  bean,  with  cofi"ee.  After  breakfast  I  walked  with  Dr. 
Marsh  to  the  summit  of  a  conical  hill,  about  a  mile  distant  from 
his  house,  from  which  the  view  of  the  plain  on  the  north,  south, 
and  east,  and  the  more  broken  and  mountainous  country  on  the 
west,  is  very  extensive  and  highly  picturesque.  The  hills  and 
the  plain  are  ornamented  with  the  evergreen  oak,  sometimes  in 
clumps  or  groves,  at  others  standing  solitary.  On  the  summits, 
and  in  the  gorges  of  the  mountains,  the  cedar,  pine,  and  fir,  dis- 
play their  tall,  symmetrical  shapes ;  and  the  San  Joaquin,  at 
a  distance  of  about  ten  miles,  is  belted  by  a  dense  forest  of  oak, 
sycamore,  and  smaller  timber  and  shrubbery.     The  herds  at 

2«* 


306  MR.  litbrmore's     ancho. 

cattle  are  scattered  over  the  plain, — some  of  tliem  grazing  upon 
the  brown,  but  nutritious  graas ;  others  sheltering  themselves 
from  the  sun,  under  the  wide-spreading  branches  of  the  oaks. 
The  toute  ensemble  of  the  landscape  is  charming, 

Lea\dng  Dr.  Marsh's  about  three  o'clock,  p.  m.,  we  travelled 
fifteen  miles,  over  a  rolling  and  well-watered  country,  covered 
generally  with  wild  oats,  and  arrived  at  the  residence  of  Mr. 
Robert  Livermore  just  before  dark.  We  were  most  kindly  and 
hospitably  received,  and  entertained  by  Mr.  L.,  and  his  interest- 
ing family.  After  om-  mules  and  baggage  had  been  cared  for, 
we  were  introduced  to  the  principal  room  in  the  house,  which 
consisted  of  a  number  of  small  adobe  buildings,  erected  appa- 
rently at  difterent  times,  and  connected  together.  Here  we 
found  chairs,  and  for  the  first  time  in  California,  saw  a  side- 
board set  out  with  glass  tumblers,  and  chinaware.  A  decanter 
of  aguardiente,  a  bowl  of  loaf-sugar,  and  a  pitcher  of  cold 
water  from  the  spring,  were  set  before  us ;  and  being  duly 
honored,  had  a  most  re\dving  influence  upon  oui"  spirits  as  well 
as  our  corporeal  energies.  Suspended  from  the  walls  of  the 
room  were  numerous  coarse  engra^^ngs,  highly  colored  with 
green,  blue,  and  crimson  paints,  representing  the  Vu-gin  Mary 
and  many  of  the  saints.  These  engravmgs  are  held  in  great 
veneration  by  the  devout  Catholics  of  tliis  country.  In  the  cor- 
ners of  the  room  were  two  comfortable-looking  beds,  with  clean 
white  sheets  and  pillow-cases,  a  sight  with  which  my  eyes  have 
not  been  greeted  for  many  months. 

The  table  was  soon  set  out,  and  covered  with  a  linen  cloth  of 
snowy  whiteness,  upon  which  were  placed  dislies  of  stewed 
beef,  seasoned  with  chile  Colorado,  frijolcs,  and  a  plentiful  sup- 
ply of  tortillas,  with  an  excellent  cup  of  tea,  to  the  merits  of 
which  we  did  ample  justice.  Never  were  men  blessed  with 
better  appetites  tlian  we  are  at  the  present  time. 

Mr.  Livermore  has  been  a  resident  of  CaUiornia  nearly  thirty 
years  ;  and  having  mai  .-ied  into  one  of  the  wealthy  famihes  of 
the  coimtry,  is  the  proprietor  of  some  of  the  best  lands  for 
tillage  and  grazing.  An  arroyo,  or  small  rivulet  fed  by  springs, 
miu  through  his  rancho,  in  uuch  a  course  that,  if  expedient,  he 


HISPANO-AMERICAN  FAMILT.  30? 

^ould,  without  much  expense,  irrigate  one  or  two  thousand 
acres.  Irrigation  in  this  part  of  California,  however,  seems  to 
be  entirely  uimecessary  for  the  production  of  wheat  or  any  of 
the  small  grains.  To  produce  maize,  potatoes,  and  garden 
vegetables,  irrigation  is  indispensable.  Mr.  Livermore  has  on 
his  rancho  about  3500  head  of  cattle.  His  horses,  during  the 
late  disturbances,  have  nearly  all  been  driven  off  or  stolen  by 
the  Indians.  I  saw  in  his  corral  a  flock  of  sheep  numbering 
several  hundred.  They  are  of  good  size,  and  the  mutton  is  said 
to  be  of  an  excellent  quality,  but  the  wool  is  coarse.  It  is, 
however,  well  adapted  to  the  only  manufacture  of  wool  that  is 
carried  on  in  the  country, — coarse  blankets  and  serdpes.  But 
little  attention  is  paid  to  hogs  here,  although  the  breeds  are  as 
fine  as  I  have  ever  seen  elsewhere.  Beef  being  so  abundant, 
and  of  a  quality  so  superior,  pork  is  not  prized  by  the  native 
Californians. 

The  Seiiiora  L.  is  the  first  Hispano- American  lady  I  have  seen 
since  arriving  in  the  country.  She  was  dressed  in  a  white 
cambric  robe,  loosely  banded  round  the  waist,  and  without  or- 
nament of  any  kind,  except  several  rings  on  her  small  delicate 
fingers.  Her  complexion  is  that  of  a  dark  brunette,  but  lighter 
and  more  clear  than  the  skin  of  most  Californian  women.  The 
dark  lustrous  eye,  the  long  black  and  glossy  hair,  the  natural 
ease,  grace,  and  vivacity  of  manners  and  conversation,  charac- 
teristic of  Spanish  ladies,  were  fully  -displayed  by  her  from  the 
moment  of  our  introduction.  The  children,  especially  two  or 
three  little  senoritas,  were  very  beautiful,  and  manifested  a  re- 
markable degree  of  sprightliness  and  intelligence.  One  of  them 
presented  me  with  a  small  basket  wrought  from  a  species  of 
tough  grass,  and  ornamented  with  the  plumage  of  birds  of  a 
variety  of  brilliant  colors.  It  was  a  beautiful  specimen  of  In- 
dian ingenuity. 

Retiring  to  bed  about  ten  o'clock,  I  enjoyed,  the  first  time  for 
four  months,  the  luxury  of  clean  sheets,  with  a  mattress  and  a 
soft  pillow.  My  enjoyment,  however,  was  not  unmixed  with  re- 
gret, for  I  noticed  that  several  members  of  the  family,  to  ac- 
eommodate  us  with  lodgings  in  the  house,  slept  in  the  piana 


308  SLAUGHTERING  A  BULLOCK. 

outside.     To  have  objected  to  sleeping  in  the  house,  however 
would  have  been  considered  discourteous  and  offensive. 

September  18. — Early  thi«  morning  a  bullock  was  brought 
up  and  slaughtered  in  front  of  the  house.  The  process  of 
slaughteiing  a  beef  is  as  follows :  A  vaquero,  mounted  on  a 
trained  horse,  and  provided  with  a  lasso,  proceeds  to  the  place 
w  here  the  herd  is  grazing.  Selecting  an  animal,  he  soon  secures  it 
by  throwing  the  noose  of  the  lasso  over  the  horns,  and  fastening 
the  other  end  around  the  pommel  of  the  saddle.  During  the 
first  struggles  of  the  animal  for  Uberty,  which  usually  are  very 
violent,  the  vaquero  sits  firmly  in  his  seat,  and  keeps  his  horse 
in  such  a  position  that  the  fury  and  strength  of  the  beast  are 
wasted  without  producing  any  other  result  than  his  own  ex- 
haustion. The  animal,  soon  ascertaining  that  he  cannot  release 
himself  from  the  rope,  submits  to  be  pulled  along  to  the  place 
of  execution.  Aniving^  here,  the  vaquero  winds  the  lasso 
around  the  legs  of  the  doomed  beast  and  throws  him  to  the 
ground,  where  he  hes  perfectly  helpless  and  motionless.  Dis- 
mounting from  his  horse,  he  then  takes  from  his  leggin  the 
butcher-knife  that  he  always  carries  with  him,  and  sticks  the 
animal  in  the  throat.  He  soon  bleeds  to  death,  when,  in  an 
incredibly  short  space  of  time  for  such  a  performance,  the  car- 
cass is  flayed  and  quartered,  and  the  meat  is  either  roasting  be- 
fore the  fire  or  simmering  in  the  stewpan.  The  lassoing  and 
slaughter  of  a  bullock  is  one  of  the  most  exciting  sports  of  the 
Californians  ;  and  the  daring  horsemanship  and  dexterous  use 
of  the  lariat  usually  displayed  on  these  occasions  are  worthy  ot 
admiration.  I  could  not  but  notice  the  Golgotha-like  aspect  o 
the  grounds  surrounding  the  house.  The  bones  of  cattle  were 
thickly  strewn  in  all  directions,  showing  a  terrible  slaughter  of 
the  four-footed  tribe  and  a  prodigious  consumption  of  flesh. 

A  carretada  of  fossil  oystoi'-shells  was  shown  me  by  Mr. 
Livermore,  which  had  been  hauled  for  the  purpose  of  being 
manufactured  into  lime.  Some  of  these  shells  were  eight  inches 
in  If.ngth,  and  <  f  corresponding  breadth  and  thickness.  They 
were  dug  fiom  a  liill  two  or  three  miles  distant,  which  is  com- 
poeed  almost  entirely  of  this  fossil.     Several   bones  belonging 


FOSSIL  SHELLS BON£S.  309 

to  the  skeleton  of  a  whale,  discovered  by  Mr.  L.  on  the  summit 
of  one  of  the  highest  elevations  in  the  vicinity  of  his  residence, 
were  shown  to  me.  The  skeleton  when  discovered  was  nearly 
perfect  and  entirely  exposed,  and  its  elevation  above  the  level 
of  the  sea  between  one  and  two  thousand  feet.  How  the  huge 
aquatic  monster,  of  which  this  skeleton  is  the  remains,  man- 
aged to  make  his  dry  bed  on  the  summit  of  an  elevated  moun- 
tain, more  experienced  geologists  than  myself  will  hereafter 
determine.  I  have  an  opinion  on  the  subject,  however,  but  it 
is  so  contrary  in  some  respects  to  the  received  geological  theo- 
ries, that  I  will  not  now  hazard  it. 

Leaving  Mr.  Livermore's  about  nine  o'clock,  a.  m.,  we  travel- 
led three  or  four  mUes  over  a  level  plain,  upon  which  immense 
herds  of  cattle  were  grazing.  When  we  a-pproached  they  fled 
from  us,  with  as  much  alarm  as  herds  of  deer  and  elk.  From 
this  plain  we  entered  a  hilly  coimtry,  covered  to  the  summits 
of  the  elevations  with  wild  oats  and  tufts  or  bunches  of  a 
species  of  grass,  which  remains  green  through  the  whole  sea- 
son. Cattle  were  scattered  through  these  hills,  and  more 
sumptuous  grazing  they  could  not  desire.  Small  streams 
of  water,  fed  by  springs,  flow  through  the  hollows  and  ravines, 
which,  as  well  as  the  hill-sides,  are  timbered  with  the  evergreen 
oak  and  a  variety  of  smaller  tress.  About  two  o'clock,  p.  m.,  we 
crossed  an  arroyo  which  runs  through  a  narrow  gorge  of  the 
hills,  and  struck  an  artificial  wagon-road,  excavated  and  em- 
banked so  as  to  afford  a  passage  for  wheeled  vehicles  along  the 
steep  hill-side.  A  little  farther  on  we  crossed  a  very  rudely - 
constructed  bridge.  These  are  the  first  signs  of  road-making  I 
have  seen  in  the  country.  Eraei'ging  from  the  hills,  the  southern 
arm  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  came  in  view,  separated  from 
us  by  a  broad  and  fertile  plain  some  ten  or  twelve  miles  in 
width,  sloping  gradually  down  to  the  shore  of  the  bay,  and 
watered  by  several  small  creeks  and  estuaries. 

We  soon  entered  through  a  narrow  street  the  mission  of  San 
Jose,  or  St.  Joseph.  Passing  the  squares  of  one-story  adobe 
buildings,  once  inhabited  by  thousands  of  busy  Indians,  but  nvjvr 
deserted,  roofless,  and  crmnbling  into  riuns,  we  reached   ilit 


310  HOUSE  OF  ENTERTAINMENT. 

plaza  in  front  of  the  chiircli  and  the  massive  two-story  edificea 
occupied  by  the  padres  during  the  flourishing  epoch  of  the  es- 
tablishment. These  were  in  good  repair,  but  the  doors  and 
^vindows  with  the  exception  of  one  were  closed,  and  nothing  of 
moving  life  was  visible  except  a  donkey  or  two,  standing  near  a 
fountain  which  gushed  its  waters  into  a  capacious  stone  trough. 
Dismounting  from  our  mules,  we  entered  the  open  door,  and 
here  we  found  two  Frenchmen  dressed  in  sailor  costume,  with  a 
quantity  of  coarse  shirts,  pantaloons,  stockings,  and  other  small 
articles,  together  with  aguardiente,  which  they  designed  re- 
tailing to  such  of  the  natives  in  the  vicinity  as  chose  to  become 
their  customers.  They  were  itinerant  merchants,  or  pedlers, 
and  had  opened  their  wares  here  for  a  day  or  two  only,  or  so 
long  as  they  could  find  purchasers. 

Having  determined  to  remain  here  the  residue  of  the  day, 
and  the  night,  we  inquired  of  the  Frenchmen  if  there  was  any 
family  in  the  place  that  coiild  furnish  us  with  food.  They  di- 
rected us  to  a  house  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  plaza,  to  which 
we  immediately  repaired.  The  senora,  a  dark-skinned  and 
rather  shrivelled  and  filthy  specimen  of  the  fair  sex,  but  with  a 
black,  sparkling,  and  intclligenl  eye,  met  us  at  the  door  of 
the  miserable  hovel  and  invited  us  in.  In  one  corner  of  this 
wretched  and  foul  abode  was  a  pile  of  raw  hides,  and  in  an- 
other a  heap  of  wheat.  The  only  furniture  it  contained  were 
two  small  benches,  or  stools,  one  of  which,  being  higher  than 
the  otlier,  appeared  to  have  been  constructed  for  a  table.  Wc 
informed  the  senora  that  we  were  •  travellers,  and  wished  re- 
freshment and  .  lodgings  for  the  night.  "  Est&  hueno,  senores, 
estd  hueno"  was  her  reply ;  and  slie  immediately  left  us,  and 
opening  the  door  of  the  kitchen,  commenced  the  preparation 
of  our  dinner.  The  interior  of  the  kitchen,  of  which  I  had  a 
good  view  tlirough  the  door,  was  more  revolting  in  its  filthiness 
than  the  room  in  which  we  were  seated.  In  a  short  time,  so 
tidustrious  was  our  hostess,  oiir  dinner,  consisting  of  two  plates 
Df  jerked  beef,  stewed,  and  seasoned  with  chile  Colorado,  a 
plate  of  tortillas,  and  a  bowl  of  coffee,  was  set  out  upon  the 
moet  elevated  stooL     There  were  no  knives,  forks,  or  spoons 


MISSION  OF  ST.  JOSEPH.  311 

on  the  table.  Our  amiable  landlady  apologized  for  tbis  de- 
ficiency of  table  furniture,  saying  that  she  was  "  muy  pohre,^'' 
(very  poor,)  and  possessed  none  of  these  table  implements. 
"  Fingers  were  made  before  forks,"  and  in  our  recent  travels 
we  had  learned  to  use  them  as  substitutes,  so  that  we  found  no 
difficulty  in  conveying  the  meat  from  the  plates  to  our  mouths. 

Belonging  to  the  mission  are  two  gardens,  enclosed  by  high 
adobe  walls.  After  dinner  we  visited  one  of  these.  The  area 
of  the  enclosure  contains  fifteen  or  twenty  acres  of  ground,  the 
whole  of  which  is  planted  with  fruit-trees  and  grape-vines. 
There  are  about  six  hundred  pear-trees,  and  a  large  number  of 
apple  and  peach  trees,  all  bearing  fruit  in  great  abimdance  and 
in  full  perfection.  The  quality  of  the  pears  is  excellent,  but 
the  apples  and  peaches  are  indifferent.  The  grapes  have  been 
gathered,  as  I  suppose,  for  I  saw  none  upon  the  vines,  which 
appeared  healthy  and  vigorous.  The  gardens  are  irrigated 
with  very  little  trouble,  from  large  springs  which  flow  from  the 
bills  a  short  distance  above  them*  Numerous  aqueducts,  for- 
merly conveying  and  distributing  water  over  an  extensive  tract 
of  land  surroimding  the  mission,  are  still  visible,  but  as  the 
land  is  not  now  cultivated,  they  at  present  contain  no  water. 

The  mission  buildings  cover  fifty  acres  of  ground,  perhaps 
more,  and  are  all  constructed  of  adobes  with  tile  roofs.  Those 
houses  or  barracks  which  were  occupied  by  the  Indian  families,  are 
built  in  compact  squares,  one  story  in  height.  They  are  generally 
partitioned  into  two  rooms,  one  fronting  on  the  street,  the  other 
upon  a  court  or  corral  in  the  rear.  The  main  buildings  of  the 
mission  are  two  stories  in  height,  with  wide  corridors  in  front 
and  rear.  The  walls  are  massive,  and  if  pi-otected  from  the 
winter  rains,  will  stand  for  ages.  But  if  exposed  to  the  storms 
by  the  decay  of  the  projecting  roofs,  or  by  leaks  in  the  main 
roof,  they  will  soon  crumble,  or  sink  into  shapeless  heaps  of 
mud.  I  passed  through  extensive  warehouses  and  immense 
rooms,  once  occupied  for  the  manufacture  of  woollen  blankets 
and  other  articles,  with  the  rude  machinery  still  standing  in 
them,  but  unemployed.  FUth  and  desolation  have  taken  the 
place  of  cleanliness  and  busy  life.     The  granary  was  very  ca- 


S1€  MISERABLE  LODGINGS. 

pacious,  and  its  dimensions  were  an  evidence  of  the  exuberant 
fertility  of  the  soil,  when  properly  cultivated  under  the  super- 
intendence of  the  padres.  The  calaboose  is  a  miserable  dark 
room  of  two  apartments,  one  with  a  small  loophole  in  the 
wall  the  other  a  dungeon  without  light  or  ventilation.  The 
stocks,  and  several  other  inventions  for  the  punishment  of 
offenders,  are  still  standing  in  this  prison,  I  requested  per- 
mission to  examine  the  interior  of  the  church,  but  it  was  locked 
up,  and  no  person  in  the  mission  was  in  possession  of  the  key. 
Its  length  I  should  suppose  is  from  one  hundred  to  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty  feet,  and  its  breadth  between  thirty  and  forty, 
with  small  exterior  pretensions  to  architectural  ornament  or 
symmetry  of  proportions. 

Returning  from  our  rambles  about  the  mission,  we  found  that 
our  landlady  had  been  reinforced  by  an  elderly  woman,  whom 
she  introduced  as  " mi  madre"  and  two  or  three  Indian  mucha- 
ckas,  or  girls,  clad  in  a  costum^  not  differing  much  from  that  of 
our  mother  Eve.  The  latter  were  obese  in  their  figures,  and 
the  mingled  perspiration  and  filth  standing  upon  their  skins 
were  any  thing  but  agreeable  to  the  eye.  The  two  senoras, 
with  these  handmaids  near  them,  were  sitting  in  front  of  the 
house,  busily  engaged  in  executing  some  needlework. 

Supper  being  prepared  and  discussed,  our  landlady  informed 
us  that  she  had  a  husband,  who  was  absent,  but  would  return 
in  the  course  of  the  night,  and  if  he  found  strange  men  in  '\\e 
house,  he  would  be  much  oftended  with  her.  She  had  there- 
fore directed  her  muchachas  to  sweep  out  one  of  the  deserted 
and  half-ruined  rooms  on  the  opposite  square,  to  which  we 
could  remove  our  baggage,  and  in  which  we  could  lodge  during 
the  night ;  and  as  soon  as  the  necessnry  preparations  were 
made,  we  retired  to  our  dismal  apartment.  The  "  compound 
of  villanous  smells"  which  saluted  our  nostrils  when  we  entered 
our  dormitory  for  the  night,  augured  unfavorably  for  repose. 
The  place  had  evidently  been  the  abode  of  horses,  cattle,  pigs, 
and  foul  vermin  of  every  description.  But  with  the  aid  of  a 
dark-colored  tallow-candle,  which  gave  just  light  enough  to 
display  the  murkiness  and  filth  surrounding  us,  we  spread  our 


rLEAS  AND  VERMIir.  313 

beds  in  the  cleanest  places,  and  laid  down  to  rest.     Distance 
txavelled,  18  miles. 


CHAPTER   XXV. 

Armies  of  fleas — Leave  the  mission — Clover — Wild  mustard — A  carreta — 
Family  travelling — Arrive  at  Pueblo  de  San  Jos^ — Capt.  Fisher — De- 
scription of  the  Pueblo — The  embarcadero — Beautiful  and  fertile  valley 
of  the  Pueblo — Absence  of  architectural  taste  in  California — Town  squir- 
rels— Fruit  garden — Grapes — Tropical  fruits — Gaming  rooms — Contreist 
between  Californian  and  American  gamesters — Leave  San  Jos^ — 
Beautiful  avenue — Mission  of  Santa  Clara — Rich  but  neglected  lands — 
Effects  of  a  bad  government — A  seiiora  on  the  road-side — Kindness  of 
Californian  women — Fast  riding — Cruel  treatment  of  horses — Arrive  at 
the  mission  of  San  Francisco — A  poor  but  hospitable  family — Arrive  at 
the  town  of  San  Francisco — W.  A.  LeidesdorfF,  Esq.,  American  vice- 
consul — First  view  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco — Muchachos  and  Mu- 
chacas — Capt.  Montgomery — U.  S.  sloop-of-war  Portsmouth — Town  of 
San  Francisco  ;  its  situation,  appearance,  population — Commerce  ol 
California — Extortion  of  the  government  and  traders. 

Sept.  19. — Several  Calif ornians  came  into  the  mission  during 
the  night  or  early  this  morning ;  among  them  the  husband  of 
our  hostess,  who  was  very  kind  and  cordial  in  his  greetings. 
-  While  our  man  Jack  was  saddhng  and  packing  the  mules, 
they  gathered  around  us  to  the  number  of  a  dozen  or  more, 
and  were  desirous  of  trading  their  horses  for  articles  of  clothing  ; 
articles  which  many  of  them  appeared  to  stand  greatly  in 
need  of,  but  which  we  had  not  to  part  from.  Their  pertinacity 
exceeded  the  bounds  of  civility,  as  1  thought ;  but  I  was  not  ia 
a  good  humor,  for  the  fleas,  bugs,  and  other  vermin,  which  in- 
fested our  miserable  lodgings,  had  caused  me  a  sleepless  night, 
by  goring  my  body  until  the  blood  oozed  from  the  skin  in  count- 
less places.  These  ruinous  missions  are  prolific  generators,  and 
the  nurseries  of  vermin  of  all  kinds,  as  tlie  hapless  traveller  who 
tarries  in  them  a  few  hours  will  learn  to  his  sorrow.     When 

27 


J14  CALirORMAN  CARRIAGB. 

these  bloodthirsty  assailants  once  make  a  lodgment  in  the 
clothing  or  bedding  of  the  imfortunate  victim  of  their  attacks, 
such  are  their  courage  and  perseverance,  that  they  never  capitu- 
late. "  Blood  or  death"  is  their  motto  ; — the  war  against  them, 
to  be  successfiU,  must  be  a  war  of  extermination. 

Poor  as  our  hostess  was,  she  nevertheless  was  reluctant  to 
receive  any  compensation  for  her  hospitality.  We,  however, 
insisted  upon  her  recei\ing  a  dollar  from  each  of  us,  (dos  pesos,] 
which  she  finally  accepted  ;  and  after  shaking  us  cordially  by 
the  hand  she  bade  us  an  afifectionate  adios,  and  we  proceeded  • 
on  our  joui-ney. 

From  the  Mission  of  San  Jose  to  the  Pueblo  of  San  Jos6,  the 
distance  is  fifteen  miles,  for  the  most  part  over  a  level  and 
highly  fertile  plain,  producing  a  variety  of  indigenous  grasses, 
among  which  I  noticed  several  species  of  clover,  and  mus- 
tard, large  tracts  of  which  we  rode  through,  the  stalks  varying 
from  six  to  ten  feet  in  height.  The  plain  is  watered  by  several 
arroyos,  skirted  vsdth  timber,  generally  the  evergreen  oak. 

We  met  this  morning  a  Californian  carreta,  or  travel  ling- cart, 
freighted  with  women  and  children,  bound  on  a  pleasure  excur- 
sion. The  carreta  is  the  inidest  specimen  of  the  wheeled  vehicle 
I  have  seen.  The  wheels  are  transverse  sections  of  a  loo",  and 
are  usually  about  2^  feet  in  diameter,  and  varying  in  thickness 
from  the  centre  to  the  rim.  These  wheels  are  coupled  together 
by  an  axletree,  into  which  a  tongue  is  inserted.  On  the  axle- 
tree  and  tongue  rests  a  frame,  constructed  of  square  pieces  of 
timber,  six  or  eight  feet  in  length,  and  foui  or  five  in  breadth, 
into  which  are  inserted  a  number  of  stakes  about  four  feet  in 
length.  Tliis  frame- work  being  covered  and  floored  with  raw 
hides,  the  carnage  is  complete.  The  carreta  which  we  met  wa» 
drawn  by  two  yokes  of  oxen,  driven  by  an  Indian  vaquero, 
mounted  on  a  liorse.  In  tlie  rear  were  two  caballeros,  riding 
fine  spirited  horses,  with  gaudy  trappings.  They  were  dressed 
in  steeple-crowned,  glazed  sombreros,  serapes  of  fiery  colors, 
velvet  (cotton)  calzoneros,  white  cambric  calzoncillos,  and  leg- 
gins  and  shoes  of  imdressed  leather.  Their  spurs  were  of  im- 
mense HM. 


PTTEBLO  SAN  JOSE.  31fi 

The  party  halted  as  soon  as  we  met  them,  the  men  touching 
their  heavy  sombreros,  and  uttering  the  usual  salutation  of  the 
morning,  "  Buenos  dias  senores,''  and  shaking  hands  with  us  very 
cordially.  The  same  salutation  was  repeated  by  all  the  senoras 
and  senoritas  in  the  carreta.  In  dress  and  personal  appearance 
the  women  of  this  party  were  much  inferior  to  the  men.  Their 
skins  were  dark,  sallow,  and  shrivelled,  and  their  costume,  a 
loose  gown  and  reboso,  were  made  of  very  common  materials. 
The  children,  however,  were  all  handsome,  with  sparkling  eyes 
and  nxddy  complexions.  Women  and  children  were  seated,  d 
la  Turqv£,  on  the  bottom  of  the  carreta,  there  being  no  raised 
seats  in  the  vehicle. 

We  arrived  at  the  Pueblo  de  San  Jose  about  12  o'clock. 
There  being  no  hotels  in  California,  we  were  much  at  loss 
where  to  apply  for  refreshments  and  lodgings  for  the  night. 
Soon,  however,  we  were  met  by  Captain  Fisher,  a  native  of 
Massachusetts,  but  a  resident  of  this  country  for  twenty  years 
or  more,  who  invited  us  to  his  house.  We  were  most  civilly 
received  by  Senora  F.,  who,  although  she  did  not  speak  Eng- 
lish, seemed  to  understand  it  very  well.  She  is  a  native  of  the 
southern  Pacific  coast  of  Mexico,  and  a  lady  of  fine  manners 
and  personal  appearance.  Her  eldest  daughter,  about  thirteen 
years  of  age,  is  very  beautiful.  An  excellent  dinner  was  soon 
set  out,  with  a  variety  of  the  native  wines  of  California  and 
other  liquors.  We  could  not  have  felt  ourselves  more  happy 
and  more  at  home,  even  at  our  own  firesides  and  in  the  midst 
of  our  own  families. 

The  Pueblo  de  San  Jose  is  a  village  containing  some  six  or 
eight  hundred  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  in  what  is  called  the 
"Pueblo  valley,"  about  fifteen  miles  south  of  the  southern 
shore  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco.  Through  a  navigable  creek 
vessels  of  considerable  burden  can  approach  the  town  within  a 
distance  of  five  or  six  miles.  The  embarcadero,  or  landing,  I 
think,  is  six  miles  from  the  Pueblo.  The  fertile  plain  between 
this  and  the  town,  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year,  is  sometimes 
inundated.  The  "  Pueblo  valley,"  which  is  eighty  or  one  hun- 
dred miles  in  length,  varying  from  ten  to  twenty  in  breadth,  ii 


816  PUEBLO  SAN  J0S£. 

well  waterec  by  the  Rio  Santa  Clara  and  numerous  irroyoi 
and  is  one  of  the  most  fertile  and  picturesque  plains  in  Califor- 
nia. For  pastoral  charms,  fertility  of  soil,  variety  of  produc- 
tions, and  delicious  voluptuousness  of  climate  and  scenery,  it 
cannot  be  surpassed.  This  valley,  if  properly  cultivated,  would 
alone  produce  breadstuffs  enough  to  supply  miUions  of  popula- 
tion. The  buildings  of  the  Pueblo,  with  few  exceptions,  are 
constructed  of  adobes,  and  none  of  them  have  even  the  smallest 
pretensions  to  architectural  taste  or  beauty.  The  church,  which 
is  situated  near  the  centre  of  the  town,  exteriorly  resembles  a 
huge  Dutch  bam.  The  streets  are  irregular,  every  man  having 
erected  his  house  in  a  position  most  convenient  to  him.  Aque- 
ducts convey  water  from  the  Santa  Clara  river  to  all  parts  of 
the  town.  In  the  main  plaza  hundreds,  perhaps  thousands, 
of  squirrels,  whose  abodes  are  vmder  ground,  have  their  resi- 
dences. They  are  of  a  brownish  color,  and  about  the  size  of 
our  common  gray  squirrel.  Emerging  from  their  subterraneous 
abodes,  they  skip  and  leap  about  over  the  plaza  without  the 
least  concern,  no  one  molesting  them. 

The  population  of  the  place  is  composed  chiefly  of  native  Cali- 
fornian  land-proprietors.  Their  ranches  are  in  the  valley,  but 
their  residences  and  gardens  are  in  the  town.  We  visited  this 
afternoon  the  garden  of  Sefior  Don  Antonio  Sunol.  He  received 
us  with  much  politeness,  and  conducted  us  through  his  garden. 
Apples,  pears,  peaches,  figs,  oranges,  and  grapes,  with  other 
fiuits  which  I  do  not  now  recollect,  were  growing  and  i-ipening. 
The  grape-vines  were  bowed  to  tlie  ground  with  tlie  luxuri- 
ance and  weight  of  the  yield ;  and  moie  delicious  fruit  I  never 
tasted.  From  the  garden  we  crossed  over  to  a  flouring-mill  re- 
cently erected  by  a  son-in-law  of  Don  Antonio,  a  Frenchman 
by  birth.  The  mill  is  a  creditable  enterprise  to  the  proprietor, 
and  he  will  coin  money  from  its  operations. 

Tiie  Pueblo  de  San  Jose  is  one  of  the  oldest  settlements  in 
Alta  California.  Captain  Fisher  pointed  out  to  me  a  house 
built  of  iidobes,  which  has  been  standing  between  80  and  90 
yeait,  and  no  house  Id  the  place  ap[)earcd  to  be  more  substan- 
tial or  in  better  repair.     A  garrison,  composed  of  marines  from 


MISSION  OF  SANTA  CLARA.  317 

the  United  States  ships  and  volunteers  enlisted  from  the  Ameri- 
can settlers  in  the  country,  is  now  stationed  here.  The  post  ia 
under  the  command  of  Purser  Watmough,  of  the  United  States 
sloop-of-war  Portsmouth,  commanded  by  Captain  Montgomery, 
During  the  evening  I  visited  several  public  places,  (bar-rooms,) 
where  I  saw  men  and  women  engaged  promiscuously  at  the 
game  of  monte.  /  Gambling  is  a  universal  vice  in  California. 
All  classes  and  both  sexes  participate  in  its  excitements  to  some 
extent.  The  games,  however,  while  I  was  present,  were  con- 
ducted with  great  propriety  and  decorum  so  far  as  the  native 
Californians  were  concerned.  The  loud  swearing  and  other 
turbulent  demonstrations  generally  proceeded  from  the  unsuc- 
cessful foreigners.  I  could  not  but  observe  the  contrast  be- 
tween the  two  races  in  this  respect.  The  one  bore  their  losses 
with  stoical  composure  and  indifference;  the  other  announced 
each  unsuccessful  bet  with  profane  imprecations  and  maledic- 
tions. Excitement  prompted  the  hazards  of  the  former,  ava- 
rice the  latter. 

September  20. — The  morning  was  cloudy  and  cool ;  but  the 
clouds  broke  away  about  nine  o'clock,  and  the  sun  shone  from 
a  vaporless  sky,  as  usual.  We  met,  at  the  Pueblo,  Mr.  Grove 
Cook,  a  native  of  Gerrard  county,  Ky.,  but  for  many  years  a 
resident  of  California.  He  is  the  proprietor  of  a  rancho  in  the 
vicinity.  We  determined  to  leave  our  mules  in  charge  of  Mr. 
Cook's  vaquero,  and  proceed  to  San  Francisco  on  hired  horses. 
The  distance  from  the  Pueblo  de  San  Jose  to  San  Francisco  is 
called  sixty  miles.  The  time  occupied  in  performing  the  jour- 
ney, on  Californian  horses  at  Californian  speed,  is  generally  six 
or  seven  hours.  Procuring  horses  for  the  journey,  and  leaving 
our  baggage,  with  the  exception  of  a  change  of  clothing,  we  left 
the  Pueblo  about  eleven  o'clock,  a.  m. 

The  mission  of  Santa  Clara  is  situated  about  two  and  a  half 
miles  from  the  town.  A  broad  alameda,  shaded  by  stately  trees, 
(elms  and  willows,)  planted  by  the  padres,  extends  nearly  the 
entire  distance,  forming  a  most  beautifid  drive  or  walk  for 
equestrians  or  pedestrians.  The  motive  of  the  padres  in  plant- 
mg  this  avenue,  was  to  afiford  the  devout  senoras  and  senoritaa 

27* 


S18  BFFSCTS  OF  BAD  GOVERNMENT. 

a  shade  from  the  sun,  when  walking  from  the  Pueblo  to  the 
church  at  the  mission  to  attend  mass.  A  few  minutes  over  the 
smooth,  level  road,  at  the  rapid  speed  of  oui-  fresh  Cahfomian 
horses,  brought  us  to  the  mission,  where  we  halted  to  make  our 
observations.  This  mission  is  not  so  extensive  in  its  buildbgs 
as  that  of  San  Jose,  but  the  houses  are  generally  in  better 
repair.  They  are  constructed  of  adobes.  The  church  was 
open,  and  entering  the  interior,  I  found  the  walls  hung  with 
coarse  paintings  and  engravings  of  the  saints,  etc.,  etc.  The 
chancel  is  decorated  with  numerous  images,  and  symbolical 
ornaments  used  by  the  priests  in  their  worship.  Gold-paper, 
and  tinsel,  in  barbaric  taste,  are  plastered  without  stint  upon 
nearly  every  object  that  meets  the  eye,  so  that  when  on  festive 
occasions  the  church  is  hghted,  it  must  present  a  very  ghttering 
appearance. 

The  rich  lands  siiiTounding  the  mission  are  entirely  neglected. 
I  did  not  notice  a  foot  of  ground  under  cultivation,  except  the 
garden  enclosure,  which  contained  a  variety  of  fruits  and  plants 
of  the  temperate  and  tropical  climates.  From  want  of  care 
these  a-re  fast  decaying.  Some  excellent  pears  were  furnished 
us  by  Mrs.  Bennett,  an  American  lady,  of  amazonian  propor- 
tions, who,  with  her  family  of  sons,  has  taken  up  her  residence 
in  one  of  the  buildings  of  the  mission.  The  picture  of  decaj 
and  ruin  presented  by  this  once  flourishing  establishment,  sur- 
rounded by  a  country  so  feitUe  and  scenery  so  enchantiug,  is  a 
most  melancholy  spectacle  to  the  passing  traveller,  and  speaks 
a  language  of  loud  condemnation  against  the  government. 

Proceeding  on  ovir  journey,  we  travelled  fifteen  miles  over  a 
flat  plain,  timbered  vvith  groves  and  parks  of  evergreen  oaks, 
and  covered  with  a  great  variety  of  grasses,  wild  oats,  and  mus- 
tard. So  rank  is  tlie  growth  of  mustard  in  many  places,  that  it 
is  with  difliculty  tluit  a  horse  can  penetrate  through  it.  Nu- 
merous birds  flitted  from  tree  to  tree,  making  the  groves  musical 
with  their  harmonious  notes.  The  black-tailed  deer  bounded 
frequently  across  our  path,  and  the  lurking  and  stealthy  coyotes 
were  continually  in  view.  We  liallcd  at  a  small  cabin,  with  a 
nmd  near  it,  in  oider  to  bieathe  oht  horses,  and  refresh  our- 


CALIFORNIAN  WOMEN.  S19 

selves.  Captain  Fisher  had  kindly  filled  a  small  sack  with 
bread,  cheese,  roasted  beef,  and  a  small  jug  of  excellent  schie- 
dam.  Entering  the  cabin,  the  interior  of  which  was  cleanly,  we 
found  a  solitary  woman,  yoimg,  neatly  dressed,  and  displaying 
many  personal  charms.  With  the  characteristic  ease  and  grace 
of  a  Spanish  woman,  she  gave  the  usual  salutation  for  the  hour 
of  the  day,  "  Buenos  tardes  senores  caballeros  ;"  to  which  we  re- 
sponded by  a  suitable  salutation.  We  requested  of  our  hostess 
some  water,  which  she  furnished  us  immediately,  in  an  earthen 
bowl.  Opening  our  sack  of  pronsions,  we  spread  them  upon 
the  table,  and  invited  the  senora  to  partake  of  them  with  us, 
which  invitation  she  accepted  without  the  shghtest  hesitation, 
and  with  much  good-natm'e,  vivacity,  and  even  thankfulness  for 
our  politeness.  There  are  no  women  in  the  world  for  whose 
manners  natm-e  has  done  so  much,  and  for  whom  art  and 
education,  in  this  respect,  have  done  so  httle,  as  these  Hispano- 
American  females  on  the  coast  of  the  Pacific.  In  their  deport- 
ment towards  strangers  they  are  queens,  when,  in  costume,  they 
are  peasants.  None  of  them,  according  to  oiu*  tastes,  can  be 
called  beautiful ;  but  what  they  want  in  complexion  and  regu- 
larity of  feature,  is  fully  suppUed  by  their  kindliness,  the  soul 
and  sympathy  which  beam  from  their  dark  eyes,  and  their 
grace  and  warmth  of  manners  and  expression. 

While  enjoying  the  pic-nic  with  our  agreeable  hostess,  a 
caballada  was  driven  into  the  corral  by  two  vaqueros,  and  two 
gentlemen  soon  after  came  into  the  house.  They  were  Messrs. 
Lightson  and  Murphy,  from  the  Pueblo,  bound  for  San  Fran- 
cisco, and  had  stopped  to  change  their  horses.  We  immediately 
made  ready  to  accompany  them,  and  were  soon  on  the  road 
again,  travelling  at  racehorse  speed ;  these  gentlemen  having 
furnished  us  with  a  change  of  horses,  in  order  that  we  might  be 
able  to  keep  up  with  them. 

To  account  for  the  fast  travelling  in  California  on  horseback, 
it  is  necessary  to  explain  the  mode  by  which  it  is  accomplished. 
A  gentleman  who  starts  upon  a  jom-ney  of  one  hundred  miles, 
and  wishes  to  perform  the  trip  in  a  day,  will  take  with  birn  ten 
fresh  horses  and  a  vaqueto.      The  eight  cose  horses  are  placed 


320  RAPID    TRAVELLING. 

under  the  charge  of  the  vaquero,  and  are  driven  in  front,  at  th« 
rate  of  ten  or  twelve  miles  an  hour,  according  to  the  speed  that 
is  required  for  the  journey.  At  the  end  of  twenty  miles,  the 
horses  which  have  been  rode  are  discharged  and  turned  into 
the  caJballada,  and  horses  which  have  not  been  rode,  but  driven 
along  without  weight,  are  saddled  and  mounted  and  rode  at  the 
same  speed,  and  so  on  to  the  end  of  the  journey.  If  a  horse 
gives  out  from  inabiUty  to  proceed  at  this  gait,  he  is  left  on  the 
road.  The  owner's  brand  is  on  him,  and  if  of  any  value,  he 
can  be  recovered  without  difficulty.  But  in  California,  no  one 
thinks  of  stopping  on  the  road,  on  account  of  the  loss  of  a 
horse,  or  his  iaability  to  travel  at  the  rate  of  ten  or  twelve 
miles  an  hour.  Horseflesh  is  cheap,  and  the  animal  must  go 
as  long  as  he  can,  and  when  he  cannot  travel  longer  he  is  left, 
and  another  horse  is  substituted. 

Twenty-five  miles,  at  a  rapid  gait  over  a  level  and  fertile 
plain,  brought  us  to  the  rancho  of  Don  Francisco  Sanchez, 
where  we  halted  to  change  horses.  Breathingf  our  animals  a 
short  time,  we  resumed  our  journey,  and  reached  the  mission 
of  San  Francisco  Dolores,  three  miles  from  the  town  of  San 
Francisco,  just  after  sunset.  Between  the  mission  and  the 
town  the  road  is  very  sandy,  and  we  determined  to  remain  here 
for  the  night,  corraling  the  loose  animals  and  picketing  those 
we  rode.  |  It  was  some  time,  hoAvever,  before  we  could  find  a 
house  to  lodge  in.  The  foreign  occupants  of  the  mission  build- 
ings, to  whom  we  applied  for  accommodations  for  the  night, 
gave  us  no  satisfaction.  After  several  applications,  we  were  at 
last  accommodated  by  an  old  and  very  poor  Californian  Span- 
iard, who  inhabited  a  small  house  in  one  of  the  ruinous  squares, 
formerly  occupied  by  the  operative  Indians.  All  that  he  had 
(and  it  was  but  little)  was  at  our  disposal.  A  more  miserable 
supper  I  never  sat  doAvn  to  ;  but  the  spirit  of  genuine  hospital- 
ity in  which  it  was  given,  imparted  to  the  poor  viands  a  flavor 
that  rendered  the  entertainment  almost  sumptuous — in  my 
imagination.  A  cup  of  water  cheerfully  given  to  the  weary 
and  thirsty  traveller,  by  him  who  lias  no  more  to  part  wth,  ia 
worth  a  cask  of  wine  grudgingly   bestowed   by  the  stingy  oi 


SAN     FRANCISCO  321 

the  ostentatious  (/hurl.  Notwithstanding  we  preferred  sleeping 
on  our  own  blankets,  these  poor  people  would  not  suffer  us  to 
do  it,  but  spread  their  own  pallets  on  the  earth  floor  of  their 
miserable  hut,  and  insisted  so  strongly  upon  our  occupying  them, 
that  we  could  not  refuse. 

September  21. — We  rose  at  daylight.  The  morning  was 
clear,  and  our  horses  were  shivering  with  the  cold.  The  mis* 
sion  of  San  Francisco  is  situated  at  the  northern  terminus  of  the 
fertile  plain  over  which  we  travelled  yesterday,  and  at  the  foot, 
on  the  eastern  side,  of  the  coast  range  of  mountains.  These 
mountains  are  of  considerable  elevation.  The  shore  of  the  Bay 
of  San  Francisco  is  about  two  miles  distant  from  the  mission. 
An  arroyo  waters  the  mission  lands  and  empties  into  the  bav. 
The  church  of  the  mission,  and  the  mam  buildings  contiguous, 
are  in  tolerable  repair.  In  the  latter,  several  Mormon  families, 
which  arrived  in  the  ship  Brooklyn  from  New  York,  are  quar 
tered.  As  in  the  other  missions  I  have  passed  through,  tho 
Indian  quarters  are  crumblmg  into  shapeless  heaps  of  mud. 

Our  aged  host,  notwithstanding  he  is  a  pious  Catholic  and 
considers  us  as  heretics  and  heathens,  gave  us  his  benedictior> 
in  a  very  impressive  manner  when  we  were  about  to  start 
Moimting  our  horses  at  sunrise,  we  travelled  three  miles  ovei 
low  ridges  of  sand-hills,  with  sufficient  soil,  however,  to  produce 
a  thick  growth  of  scrubby  evergreen  oak,  and  brambles  of  haw- 
thorn, wild  currant  and  gooseberry  bushes,  rose-bushes,  briers, 
etc.  We  reached  the  residence  of  Wm.  A.  Leidesdorff,  Esq.,  late 
American  vice-consul  at  San  Francisco,  when  the  sun  was  about 
an  hour  high.  The  morning  was  calm  and  beautiful.  Not  a 
ripple  distiu'bed  the  placid  and  glassy  surface  of  the  magnificent 
bay  and  harbor,  upon  which  rested  at  anchor  thhty  large  ves- 
sels, consisting  of  whalemen,  merchantmen,  and  the  U.  S.  sloop- 
of-war  Portsmouth,  Captain  Montgomery.  Besides  these,  there 
were  numerous  small  craft,  giving  to  the  harbor  a  commercia. 
air,  of  which  some  of  the  large  cities  on  the  Atlantic  coast 
would  feel  vain.  The  bay,  from  the  town  of  San  Francisco 
due  east,  is  about  twelve  miles  in  breadth.  An  elevated  range 
of  hills  boxrnds  the  view  on  the  opposite  side.      These  slop* 


328  CAPTAIN    LEIDESLH)RFF. 

gradually  down,  and  between  them  and  the  shore  there  is  a 
broad  and  fertile  plain,  which  is  called  the  Contra  Costa.  There 
are  several  small  islands  ia  the  bay,  but  they  do  not  present  a 
fertile  appearance  to  the  eye. 

We  were  received  with  every  mark  of  respectful  attention 
and  cordial  hospitality  by  Mr,  Leidesdorff.  Mr.  L.  is  a  native 
of  Denmark ;  was  for  some  years  a  resident  of  the  United 
States ;  but  subsequently  the  captain  of  a  merchant  vessel,  and 
has  been  established  at  this  place  as  a  merchant  some  five  or 
six  years.  The  house  in  which  he  resides,  now  under  the  pro- 
cess of  completion,  is  the  largest  private  building  in  the  town. 
Bemg  shown  to  a  well-furnished  room,  we  changed  our  travel- 
soiled  clothing  for  a  more  civilized  costume,  by  which  time 
breakfast  was  announced,  and  we  were  ushered  into  a  largre 
dining-hall.  In  the  centre  stood  a  table,  upon  which  was  spread 
a  substantial  breakfast  of  stewed  and  fried  beef,  fried  onions, 
and  potatoes,  bread,  butter,  and  coflFee.  Our  appetites  were 
very  sharp,  and  we  did  full  justice  to  the  merits  of  the  fare  be- 
fore us.  The  servants  waiting  upon  the  table  were  an  Indian 
muchachito  and  muchachita,  about  ten  or  twelve  years  of  age. 
They  had  not  been  long  from  their  wild  rancherias,  and  knew 
but  little  of  cinlized  life.  Our  host,  however,  who  speaks,  T 
believe,  nearly  every  living  language,  whether  of  Christian,  bar- 
barian, or  savage  nations,  seemec  determined  to  impress  upon 
their  dull  intellects  the  forms  and  customs  of  civilization.  He 
scolded  them  with  great  vivacity,  sometimes  in  their  own  tongue, 
sometimes  in  French,  Spanish,  Portuguese,  Danish,  German, 
and  Enghsh,  in  accordance  with  the  language  in  which  he  was 
thinking  at  the  moment.  It  seemed  to  me  that  the  little  fat 
Indians  were  more  confused  than  enlightened  by  his  emphatic 
instructions.  At  the  table,  besides  ourselves  and  host,  was 
Lieutenant  W.  A.  Bartlett,  of  the  U.  S.  sloop-of-war  Ports- 
mouth, now  acting  as  alcalde  of  the  town  and  district  of  San 
Francisco. 

Tlie  Portsmouth,  Commander  Montgomery,  is  the  only  Uni- 
ted States  vessel  of  war  now  lying  in  the  harbor.  She  is  re- 
garded as  the  finest  vessel  of  her  class  belonging  to  our  narr 


TOWN  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO.  323 

By  invitation  of  Lieutenant  Bartlett,  I  went  on  board  of  her  be- 
tween ten  and  eleven  o'clock.  The  crew  and  officers  were  as- 
sembled on  deck  to  attend  Divine  service.  They  were  all 
dressed  with  great  neatness,  and  seemed  to  listen  with  deep  at- 
tention to  the  Episcopal  service  and  a  sermon,  which  were  read 
by  Commander  Montgomery,  who  is  a  member  of  the  church. 

In  the  afternoon  I  walked  to  the  summit  of  one  of  the  elevated 
hills  in  the  vicinity  of  the  town,  from  which  I  had  a  view  of  the 
entrance  to  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  and  of  the  Pacific  ocean. 
A  thick  fog  hung  over  the  ocean  outside  of  the  bay.  The  deep 
roar  of  the  eternally  restless  waves,  as  they  broke  one  after  an- 
other upon  the  beach,  or  dashed  against  the  rock-bound  shore, 
could  be  heard  with  great  distinctness,  although  some  five  or 
six  miles  distant. ,  The  entrance  from  the  ocean  into  the  bay  is 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  in  breadth.  The  waters  of  the  bay  ap- 
pear to  have  forced  a  passage  through  the  elevated  ridge  of 
hills  next  to  the  shore  of  the  Pacific.  These  rise  abruptly  on 
either  side  of  the  entrance.  The  water  at  the  entrance  and  in- 
side is  of  sufficient  depth  to  admit  the  largest  ship  that  was 
ever  constructed ;  and  so  completely  land-locked  and  protected 
from  the  winds  is  the  harbor,  that  vessels  can  ride  at  anchor  in 
perfect  safety  in  all  kinds  of  weather.  The  capacity  of  the 
harbor  is  sufficient  for  the  accommodation  of  all  the  navies  of 
the  world. 

The  town  of  San  Francisco  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of 
the  entrance,  fronting  on  the  bay,  and  about  six  miles  from 
the  ocean.  The  flow  and  ebb  of  the  tide  are  sufficient  to  biing 
a  vessel  to  the  anchorage  in  front  of  the  toAvn  and  to  carry  it 
outside,  without  the  aid  of  wind,  or  even  against  an  unfavor- 
able wind.  A  more  approachable  harbor,  or  one  of  greater 
security,  is  imknown  to  na\igators.  The  permanent  population 
of  the  town  is  at  this  time  between  one  and  two  hundred,* 
and  is  composed  almost  exclusively  of  foreigners.     There  are 

*  This  was  in  September,  1846.  In  June,  1847,  when  I  left  San  Fran- 
cisco, on  my  return  to  the  United  States,  the  population  had  incieaMd  to 
about  twelve  hundred,  and  houses  were  rising  ia  all  directioM. 


6fl4  TRADE  OF  CALIFORNIA. 

but  two  or  three  native  Californian  families  in  the  place.  The 
transient  population,  and  at  present  it  is  quite  numerous,  con 
sists  of  the  garrison  of  marines  stationed  here,  and  the  officers 
and  crews  attached  to  tht  merchant  and  whale  ships  lying  in 
the  harbor.  The  houses,  w  ith  a  few  exceptions,  are  small  adobes 
and  frames,  constructed  without  regard  to  architectural  taste, 
convenience,  or  comfort.  Veiy  few  of  them  have  either  chim- 
neys or  fireplaces.  The  inhabitants  contrive  to  live  the  year 
roimd  Avithout  fires,  except  for  cooking.  The  position  of  San 
Francisco  for  commerce  is,  without  doubt,  superior  to  any  othei 
port  on  the  Pacific  coast  of  North  America.  The  country  con- 
tiguous and  tributary  to  it  cannot  be  surpassed  in  fertility, 
healthfulness  of  climate,  and  beauty  of  scenery.  It  is  capable 
of  producing  whatever  is  necessary  to  the  sustenance  of  man, 
and  many  of  the  luxuries  of  tropical  climates,  not  taking  into 
the  account  the  mineral  wealth  of  the  surrounding  hills  and 
mountains,  which  there  is  reason  to  believe  is  very  great.  This 
place  is,  doubtless,  destined  to  become  one  of  the  largest  and 
most  opulent  commercial  cities  in  the  world,  and  under  Ameri- 
can authority  it  will  rise  with  astonishing  rapidity.  The  prin- 
cipal merchants  now  estabUshed  here  are  Messrs.  Leidesdorff, 
Grimes  &  Da\as,  and  Frank  Ward,  a  young  gentleman  recently 
from  New  York.  These  houses  carry  on  an  extensive  and 
profitable  commerce  with  the  interior,  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
Oregon,  and  the  southern  coast  of  the  Pacific.  The  produce 
of  Oregon  for  exportation  is  flour,  limiber,  salmon,  and  cheese ; 
of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  sugar,  coffee,  and  preserved  tropical 
fruits. 

California,  until  recently,  has  had  no  commerce  in  the  broad 
signification  of  the  term.  A  few  commercial  houses  of  Boston 
and  New  York  have  monopolized  all  the  trade  on  this  coast  for 
a  number  of  years.  These  houses  have  sent  out  ships  freighted 
with  cargoes  of  dry  goods  and  a  variety  of  knick-knacks  saleable 
in  the  country.  The  ships  are  fitted  up  for  the  retail  sale  of 
these  articles,  and  trade  from  port  to  port,  vending  their  wares 
on  board  to  the  rancheros  at  prices  that  would  be  astonishing  at 
home.     For  ir^tance,  I'ae  price  of  common  brown  cot  ton  cloth 


TRADE  OF  CALIFORNIA.  7M 

is  one  dollar  per  yard,  and  other  articles  in  thia  and  even  great- 
er proportion  of  advance  upon  home  prices.  They  receive  in 
payment  for  their  wares,  hides  and  tallow.  The  price  of  a  dry 
hide  is  ordinarily  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents.  The  price  of  tal- 
low I  do  not  know.  When  the  ship  has  disposed  of  her  cargo 
she  is  loaded  with  hides,  and  returns  to  Boston,  where  the  hides 
bring  about  four  or  five  dollars,  according  to  the  fluctuations 
of  the  market.  Immense  fortunes  have  been  made  by  this  trade ; 
and  between  the  government  of  Mexico  and  the  traders  on  the 
coast,  California  has  been  literally  skinned,  annually  for  the  last 
thirty  years.  Of  natural  wealth  the  population  of  California 
possesses  a  superabundance,  and  are  immensely  rich  ;  still,  such 
have  been  the  extortionate  prices  that  they  have  been  compelled 
to  pay  for  their  commonest  artificial  luxuries  and  wearing  ap- 
parel, that  generally  they  are  but  indifferently  provided  with 
the  ordinary  necessaries  of.  civilized  life.  For  a  suit  of  clothes, 
which  in  New  York  or  Boston  would  cost  seventy-five  dollars, 
the  Californian  has  been  compelled  to  pay  five  times  that  sunr 
in  hides  at  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents ;  so  that  a  cahallero,  tc 
clothe  himself  genteelly,  has  been  obliged,  as  often  as  he  re- 
newed his  dress,  to  sacrifice  about  two  hundred  of  the  cattle 
on  his  rancho.  No  people,  whether  males  or  females,  are  more, 
fond  of  display ;  no  people  have  paid  more  deai-ly  to  gratify 
this  vanity ;  and  yet  no  civilized  people  I  have  seen  are  so  de- 
ficient in  what  they  most  covet. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Climate  of  Sau  Francisco — Periodical  winds — Dine  on  the  Portsmouth — 
A  supper  party  on  shore — Arrival  of  Commodore  Stockton  at  San  Fran- 
cisco— Rumors  of  rebellion  from  the  south — Californian  court — Trial  by 
jury — Fandango — Californian  belles — American  pioneers  of  the  Pacific 
— Reception  of  Commodore  Stockton — Sitga — Captain  Fremont  leaves 
San  Francisco  for  the  south — Offer  our  services  as  volunteers. 

Frch  the  21st  of  September  to  the  13th  of  October  I  re- 
mained at  San  Francisco.     The  weather  during  this  period  wa» 

26 


826  CLIMATE  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

tiniformly  clear.  The  clim  .te  of  San  Francisco  is  peculiar  and 
local,  from  its  position.  During  tlie  summer  and  autumnal 
months,  the  wind  on  this  coast  blows  from  the  west  and  Qorth- 
west,  directly  from  the  ocean.  The  mornings  here  are  usually 
calm  and  pleasantly  warm.  About  twelve  o'clock,  m.,  the 
wind  blows  strong  from  the  ocean,  through  the  entrance  of  the 
bay,  rendering  the  temperature  cool  enough  for  woollen  cloth- 
ing in  midsummer.  About  sunset  the  wind  dies  away,  and  the 
evenings  and  nights  are  comparatively  calm.  In  the  winter 
months  the  wind  blows  in  soft  and  gentle  breezes  from  the 
southeast,  and  the  temperature  is  agreeable,  the  thermometer 
rarely  sinking  below  50°.  When  the  winds  blow  from  the 
ocean,  it  never  rains ;  when  they  blow  from  the  land,  as  they 
do  durmg  the  winter  and  spring  months,  the  weather  is 
showery,  and  resembles  that  of  the  month  of  May  in  the  same 
latitude  on  the  Atlantic  coast.  The  coolness  of  the  climate 
and  briskness  of  the  air  above  described,  are  confined  to  par- 
ticular positions  on  the  coast,  and  the  description  in  this  re- 
spect is  not  apphcable  to  the  interior  of  the  coimtry,  nor  even 
to  other  localities  immediately  on  the  coast. 

On  the  21st,  by  invitation  of  Captain  Montgomery,  I  dined 
on  board  of  the  sloop-of-war  Portsmouth.  The  party,  in- 
cluding myself,  consisted  of  Colonel  Russell,  Mr.  Jacob,  Lieu- 
tenant Bartlett,  and  a  son  of  Captain  M.  There  are  few  if  any 
officers  in  our  navy  more  highly  and  universally  esteemed,  foi 
their  moral  qualities  and  professional  merits,  than  Captain  M. 
He  is  a  sincere  Chiistian,  a  brave  officer,  and  an  accomplished 
gentleman.  Under  the  orders  of  Commodore  Sloat,  he  first 
raised  the  American  flag  in  San  Francisco.  We  spent  the 
afternoon  most  agreeably,  and  the  refined  liospitality,  courteous 
manners,  and  intellifjent  and  interestini;  conversation  of  our 
host,  made  us  regret  the  rapidly  fleeting  moments.  The  wines 
on  the  table  were  the  produce  of  the  vine  of  California,  and 
having  attained  age,  were  of  an  excellent  quality  in  substance 
and  flavor. 

I  attended  a  supper-party  given  this  evening  by  Mr.  Frank 
Ward.     The  party  s^as  composed  of  citizens  of  the  town,  and 


▲BRIVAL  OF  COM.  STOCKTON.  3S7 

officers  of  the  navy  and  the  merchant  and  whale  ships  in  th« 
harbor.  In  such  a  company  as  was  here  assembled,  it  was 
very  diflScult  for  me  to  realize  that  I  was  many  thousand  miles 
from  home,  in  a  strange  and  foreign  country.  All  the  faces 
about  me  were  American,  and  there  was  nothing  in  scene  or 
sentiment  to  remind  the  guests  of  their  remoteness  from  their 
native  shores.  Indeed,  it  seems  to  be  a  settled  opinion,  that 
Cahfomia  is  henceforth  to  compose  a  part  of  the  United  States, 
and  every  American  who  is  now  here  considers  himself  as 
treading  upon  his  ovm  soil,  as  much  as  if  he  were  in  one  of  the 
old  thirteen  revolutionary  states.  Song,  sentiment,  story,  and 
wit,  heightened  the  enjoyments  of  the  excellent  entertainment 
of  our  host,  and  the  jovial  party  did  not  separate  until  a  late 
hour  of  the  night.  The  guests,  as  may  be  supposed,  were 
composed  chiefly  of  gentlemen  who  had,  from  their  pursuits, 
travelled  over  most  of  the  world, — had  seen  developments  of 
human  character  under  every  variety  of  circumstance,  and  ob- 
served society,  civilized,  barbarous,  and  savage,  in  all  its  phases. 
Their  conversation,  therefore,  when  around  the  convivial  board, 
possessed  an  unhackneyed  freshness  and  raciness  highly  enter- 
taining and  instructive. 

On  the  27th  of  September,  the  U.  S.  frigate  Congress,  Cap- 
tain Livingston,  bearing  the  broad  pennant  of  Commodore 
Stockton,  and  the  U.  S.  frigate  Savannah,  Captain  Mervine, 
anchored  in  the  harbor,  ha\dng  sailed  from  Monterey  a  day  or 
two  previously.  The  arrival  of  these  large  men-of-war  pro- 
duced an  increase  of  the  bustle  in  the  small  town.  Blue  coats 
and  bright  buttons  (the  naval  uniform)  became  the  prevailing 
costume  at  the  billiard-rooms  and  other  public  places,  and  the 
plain  dress  of  a  private  citizen  might  be  regarded  as  a  badge  of 
distinction. 

On  the  1st  of  October  a  courier  arrived  from  the  south  with 
intelhgence  that  the  Californians  at  Los  Angeles  had  organized 
a  force  and  rebelled  against  the  authority  of  the  Americans, — ' 
that  they  had  also  captured  an  American  merchant-vessel  lying 
at  San  Pedro,  the  port  of  the  city  of  Angels,  about  thirty  miles 
distant,  and  robbed  it  of  a  quantity  of  merchandise  and  specie 


328  TRIAL  BT  JURT. 

Whether  this  latter  report  was  or  was  not  true,  I  do  not  kno^ 
• — ^the  former  \  as  correct.  The  frigate  Savannah  sailed  fof 
Los  Angeles  imjiediately. 

Among  those  American  naval  officers  whose  agreeable  ac- 
quaintance I  made  at  San  Francisco,  was  Mr.  James  F.  Schenck, 
first-lieutenant  of  the  frigate  Congress,  brother  of  the  distin- 
guished member  of  congress  from  Ohio  of  that  name, — a  native 
of  Dayton,  Ohio, — a  gentleman  of  intelligence,  keen  wit,  and  a 
most  accompUshed  officer.  The  officers  of  our  navy  are  our 
representatives  in  foreign  countries,  and  they  are  generally  such 
representatives  as  their  constituents  have  reason  to  feel  proud 
of.  Their  chivalry,  patriotism,  gentlemanlike  deportment,  and 
professional  skill,  cannot  be  too  much  admired  and  applauded 
by  their  countrymen.  I  shall  ever  feel  grateful  to  the  naval 
officers  of  the  Pacific  squadron,  for  their  numerous  civilities 
during  my  sojourn  on  the  Pacific  coast. 

Among  the  novelties  presented  while  at  San  Francisco,  was 
a  trial  by  jury — the  second  tribunal  of  this  kind  which  had 
been  organized  in  California.  The  trial  took  place  before 
Judge  Bartlett,  and  the  litigants  were  two  Mormons.  Counsel 
was  employed  on  both  sides.  Some  of  the  forms  of  American 
judicial  proceedings  were  observed,  and  many  of  the  legal 
technicalities  and  nice  flaws,  so  often  urged  in  common-law 
courts,  were  here  argued  by  the  learned  counsel  of  the  parties, 
with  a  vehemence  of  language  and  gesticulation  with  which  I 
thought  the  legal  learning  and  acumen  displayed  did  not  cor- 
respond. The  proceedings  were  a  mixture,  made  up  of  com- 
mon law,  equity,  and  a  sprinkling  of  military  despotism — which 
last  ingredient  the  court  was  compelled  to  employ,  when  en- 
tangled in  the  intricate  meshes  woven  by  the  counsel  for  the 
litigants,  in  order  ta  extricate  itself.  The  jury,  after  the  case 
was  referred  to  them,  were  what  is  called  "hung;"  they  could 
not  agree,  and  the  matters  in  issue,  therefore,  remained  exactly 
where  they  were  before  the  proceedings  were  commenced. 

I  attended  one  evening  a  fandango  given  by  Mr.  Ridley,  an 
English  gentleman,  whose  wife  is  a  Oalifoi-nian  lady.  Severa« 
of  the  heiioras  ard   senoritas   fioin   the  ranches  of  the  \icinity 


CALIFORNIA    BELLES MR.  GRIMES.  329 

«rere  present.  The  Californian  ladies  dance  with  much  ease 
and  grace.  The  waltz  appears  to  be  a  favorite  with  them. 
Smoking  is  not  prohibited  in  these  assemblies,  nor  is  it  confined 
to  the  gentlemen.  The  cigarita  is  freely  used  by  the  senoraa 
and  senoritas,  and  they  puff  it  with  much  gusto  while  threading 
the  mazes  of  the  cotillon  or  swinging  in  the  waltz. 

I  had  the  pleasure  of  being  introduced,  at  the  residence  of 
Mr.  Leidesdorff,  to  two  young  ladies,  sisters  and  belles  in  Alta 
California.  They  are  members  of  an  old  and  numerous  family 
on  the  Contra  Costa.  Theh  names  are  singular  indeed,  for  if  I 
heard  them  correctly,  one  of  them  was  called  Donna  Maria 
Jesus  and  the  other  Donna  Maria  Conception.  They  were  in- 
teresting and  graceful  young  ladies,  with  regular  featui'es, 
symmetrical  figures,  and  their  dark  eyes  flashed  with  all  the 
intelhgence  and  passion  characteristic  of  Spanish  women. 

Among  the  gentlemen  with  whom  I  met  soon  after  my  arri 
val  at  San  Francisco,  and  whose  acquaintance  I  afterwards 
cultivated,  were  Mr.  E.  Grimes  and  Mr.  N.  Spear,  both  nati^s 
of  Massachusetts,  but  residents  of  this  coast  and  of  the  Pacific 
Islands,  for  many  years.  They  may  be  called  the  patriarchs 
of  American  pioneers  on  the  Pacific.  After  formmg  an  ac- 
quaintance with  Mr.  G.,  if  any  one  were  to  say  to  me  that 

*'  Old  Grimes  is  dead,  that  good  old  man," 

I  should  not  hesitate  to  contradict  him  with  emphasis  ;  for  he 
is  still  living,  and  possesses  all  the  charities  and  virtues  which 
can  adorn  human  nature,  with  some  of  the  eccentricities  of  his 
namesake  in  the  song.  By  leading  a  life  of  peril  and  adventure 
on  the  Pacific  ocean  for  fifty  years  he  has  accumulated  a  large 
fortune,  and  is  a  man  now  proverbial  for  his  integrity,  candor, 
and  charities.  Both  of  these  gentlemen  have  been  largely 
engaged  in  the  local  commerce  of  the  Pacific.  Mr.  S.,  some 
twenty-five  or  thirty  years  ago,  colonized  one  of  the  Cannibal 
Islands,  and  remained  upon  it  with  the  colony  for  nearly  two 
years.  The  attempt  to  introduce  agriculture  into  the  island 
was  a  failure,  and  the  enterprise  was  afterwards  abandoned. 

28* 


830  RECEPTION  OF  COM.   STOCKTON. 

On  the  evening  of  the  thu-d  of  October,  it  having  been  an- 
nounced that  Commodore  Stockton  woidd  land  on  the  fifth,  a 
public  meeting  of  the  citizens  was  called  by  the  alcalde,  for  the 
purpose  of  adopting  stiitable  armngements  for  his  reception,  in 
his  civic  capacity  as  governor.  The  meeting  was  convened 
m  the  plaza,  (Portsmouth-square.)  Col.  Russell  was  appointed 
chairman,  and  on  motion  of  E.  Bryant  a  committee  was  ap- 
pointed to  make  all  necessary  and  suitable  arrangements  for  the 
reception  of  his  excellency.  Governor  Stockton.  The  following 
account  of  this  pageant  I  extract  from  the  "  Calif ornian"  news- 
paper of  October  24th,  1846. 

"  Agreeable  to  public  notice,  a  large  number  of  the  citizens  of 
San  Francisco  and  vicinity,  assembled  in  Portsmouth-square 
for  the  pm"pose  of  meeting  His  Excellency  Robert  F.  Stockton, 
to  welcome  his  arrival,  and  offer  him  the  hospitahties  of  the 
city.  At  ten  o'clock,  a  procession  was  formed,  led  by  the  Chief 
Marshal  of  the  day,  supported  on  either  hand  by  two  aids,  fol- 
Ipwed  by  an  excellent  band  of  music — a  militaiy  escort,  imder 
command  of  Captain  J.  ZeUen,  U.  S.  M.  C. — Captain  John  B. 
Montgomery  and  suite — Magistracy  of  the  District,  and  the 
Orator  of  the  day — Foreign  Consuls — Captain  John  Paty, 
Senior  Captain  of  the  Hawanian  Navy — Lieutenant-Command- 
ing Ruducoff,  Russian  Nav'y,  and  Lieutenant- Commanding 
Bonnett,  French  Navy.  The  procession  was  closed  by  the 
Committee  of  Arrangements,  Captains  of  ships  in  port,  and  a 
long  line  of  citizens. 

"  General  Mariano  Guadaloupe  Vallejo,  with  several  others 
who  had  held  office  under  the  late  government,  took  their  ap- 
propriate place  in  the  line. 

"  The  procession  moved  in  fine  style  down  Portsmouth-street 
to  the  landing,  and  formed  a  line  in  Water-street.  The  Gov- 
ernor-General landed  frcm  liis  barge,  and  was  met  on  the 
wharf  by  Captain  John  B.  Montgomery,  U.  S.  N.,  Judge  W. 
A.  Bartlett,  and  Marshal  of  the  day,  (Frank  Ward,)  who  con- 
ducted liim  to  the  front  of  the  line,  and  presented  him  to  the 
procession,  through  the  orator  of  the  day,  Colonel  Russell,  whrj 
•ddresHed  the  Commodore." 


DINNER  AND  BALL.  331 

When  the  governor  and  commander-in-chief  had  closed  hi? 
reply,  the  procession  moved  through  the  principal  streets  and 
halted  in  front  of  Captain  Leidesdorff's  residence,  where  the 
governor  and  suite  entered,  and  was  presented  to  a  number  of 
ladies,  who  welcomed  him  to  the  shores  of  California.  After 
which  a  large  portion  of  the  procession  accompanied  the  gov- 
ernor, on  horseback,  to  the  mission  of  San  Francisco  Dolores, 
several  miles  in  the  country,  and  returned  to  an  excellent  colla- 
tion prepared  by  the  committee  of  arrangements,  at  the  house 
of  Captain  Leidesdorflf,  After  the  cloth  was  removed,  the 
usual  number  of  regular  toasts  prepared  by  the  committee  of  ar- 
rangements, and  numerous  volunteer  sentiments  by  the  mem- 
bers of  the  company,  were  drank  with  many  demonstrations  of 
enthusiasm,  and  several  speeches  were  made.  In  response  to 
a  complimentary  toast.  Commodore  Stockton  made  an  eloquent 
address  of  an  hour's  length.  The  toasts  given  in  English  were 
translated  into  Spanish,  and  those  given  in  Spanish  were  trans- 
lated into  EngUsh.  A  ball  in  honor  of  the  occasion  was  given  by 
the  committee  of  arrangements  in  the  evening,  which  was  attend- 
ed by  all  the  ladies  native  and  foreign  in  the  town  and  vicinity, 
the  naval  officers  attached  to  the  three  ships  of  war,  and  the 
captains  of  the  merchant  vessels  lying  in  the  harbor.  So  seduc- 
tive were  the  festivities  of  the  day  and  the  pleasures  of  the 
dance,  that  they  were  not  closed  until  a  late  hour  of  the  night, 
or  rather  until  an  early  hour  in  tlie  morning. 

Among  the  numerous  vessels  of  many  nations  at  anchor  in 
the  harbor,  is  a  Russian  brig  from  Silca,  the  central  port  of  the 
Russian- American  Fur  Company,  on  the  northwestern  coast  of 
this  continent.  She  is  commanded  by  Lieutenant  Ruducoff  of 
the  Russian  navy,  and  is  here  to  be  freighted  with  wheat  to 
supply  that  settlement  with  breadstuff.  Sitca  is  situated  in  a 
high  northern  latitude,  and  has  a  population  of  some  four  or 
five  thousand  inhabitants.  A  large  portion  of  these,  I  conjec- 
ture, are  christianized  natives  or  Indians.  Many  of  the  crew  of 
this  vessel  are  the  aborigines  of  the  country  to  which  she  be- 
longs, and  from  which  she  last  sailed.  I  noticed,  however, 
from  an  inscription,   that    the  brig  was    built    at   Newbury 


832  RUSSIAN  HOSPITALITY. 

port,  Massachusetts,  showing  that  the  autocrat  of  all  the 
Russias  is  tributary,  to  some  extent,  to  the  free  Yankees  of 
New  England  for  his  naval  equipment.  On  the  11th  of  Octo- 
ber, by  invitation  of  Lieutenant  RuducofF,  in  company  of  Mr. 
Jacob  and  Captain  Leidesdorff,  I  dined  on  board  this  vessel.  The 
Russian  customs  are  in  some  respects  peculiar.  Soon  after 
we  reached  the  vessel  and  were  shown  into  the  cabin,  a  lunch 
was  served  up.  This  consisted  of  a  variety  of  dried  and  smoked 
fish,  pickled  fish-roe,  and  other  hyperborean  pickles,  the  nature 
of  which,  whether  animal  or  vegetable,  I  could  not  determine. 
Various  wines  and  liquors  accompanied  this  lunch,  the  discus- 
sion of  which  lasted  until  an  Indian  servant,  a  native  of  the 
north-pole,  or  thereabouts,  announced  dinner.  We  were  then 
shown  into  a  handsomely-furnished  dining  cabin,  where  the  ta- 
ble was  spread.  The  dinner  consisted  of  several  courses,  some 
of  which  were  peculiarly  Russian  or  Sitcan,  and  I  regret  that  my 
culinary  knowledge  is  not  equal  to  the  task  of  describing  them, 
for  the  benefit  of  epicures  of  a  more  southern  region  than  the 
place  of  their  invention.  They  were  certainly  very  delightful  to 
rhe  palate.     The  afternoon  glided  away  most  agreeably. 

On  the  12th  of  October,  Captain  Fremont,  with  a  number 
of  volunteers  destined  for  the  south,  to  co-operate  with  Commo- 
dore Stockton  in  the  suppression  of  the  reported  rebellion  at 
Los  Angeles,  arrived  at  San  Francisco  from  the  Sacramento.  I 
had  previously  offered  my  services,  and  Mr.  Jacob  had  done  the 
same,  to  Commodore  Stockton,  as  volunteers  in  this  expedition, 
if  they  were  necessary  or  desirable.  They  were  now  repeated 
Although  travellers  in  the  country,  we  were  American  citizens, 
and  felt  under  obligations  to  assist  in  defending  the  flag  of  out 
country  wherever  it  had  l  ?e»  planted  by  proper  authority 
At  this  time  we  were  given  o  understand  that  a  larger  forct 
than  was  already  organized,  'as  not  considered  necessary  for 
the  expedition.  , 


VOYAGE  ACROSS  THB  BAT  ^98 


CHAPTER   XXVII. 

LeavA  San  FranciBCO  for  Sonoma — Sonoma  creek — "  Bear  meji" — Island* 
m  the  bay — Liberality  of  Uncle  Sam  to  sailors — Sonoma — Beautiful  coun- 
try--General  Vallejo — Senora  Valldjo — Thomas  O.  Larkin,  U.  S.  Con- 
sul— Signs  of  rain — The  seasons  in  California — More  warlike  rumors 
from  the  south — Mission  of  San  Rafael — An  Irish  ranchero — Sausolito — 
Return  to  San  Erancisco — Meet  Lippincott — Discomfort  of  Californian 
houses. 

October  13. — This  morning  the  United  States  frigate  Con- 
gress, Commodore  Stockton,  and  the  merchant-ship  Sterhng, 
employed  to  transport  the  volunteers  under  the  command  of 
Captain  Fremont,  (one  hundred  and  eighty  in  number,)  sailed  for 
the  south.  The  destination  of  these  vessels  was  understood  to 
be  San  Pedro  or  San  Diego.  While  these  vessels  were  leaving 
the  harbor,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Jacob,  I  took  passage  for  So- 
noma in  a  cutter  belonging  to  the  sloop-of-war  Portsmouth. 
Sonoma  is  situated  on  the  northern  side  of  the  Bay  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, about  15  miles  from  the  shore,  and  about  45  miles  from 
the  town  of  San  Francisco.  Sonoma  creek  is  navigable  for  ves- 
sels of  considerable  burden  to  within  four  miles  of  the  town. 

Among  the  passengers  in  the  boat,  were  Mr.  Ide,  who  acted 
so  conspicuous  a  part  in  what  is  called  the  "  Bear  Revolution," 
and  MessKS.  Nash  and  Grigsby,  who  were  likewise  prominent 
in  this  movement.  The  boat  was  manned  by  six  sailors  and  a 
cockswain.  We  passed  Yerba  Buena,  Bird,  and  several  other 
small  islands  in  the  bay.  Some  of  these  are  white,  as  if  covered 
with  snow,  from  the  deposite  upon  them  of  bird-manure.  Tens 
of  thousands  of  wild  geese,  ducks,  gidls,  and  other  water-fowls 
w^re  perched  upon  them,  or  spoiling  in  the  waters  of  the  bay, 
making  a  prodigious  cackling  and  clatter  with  their  voices 
and  wings.  By  the  aid  of  oars  and  sails  we  reached  the 
mouth  of  Sonoma  creek  about  9  o'clock  at  night,  where  we 
lauded  and  encamped  on  the  low  marsh  which  borders  the  ba) 


'iSt  **  trwcLE  sam"  and  his  sailors." 

on  this  side.  The  marshes  contiguous  to  the  Bay  of  San  Fran- 
cisco are  extensive,  and  with  little  trouble  I  believe  they  could 
be  reclaimed  and  transformed  into  valuable  and  productive  rice 
plantations.  Having  made  our  supper  on  raw  salt-pork  and 
bread  generously  furnished  by  the  sailors,  as  soon  as  we  landed, 
we  spread  our  blankets  on  the  damp  and  rank  vegetation,  and 
slept  soundly  until  morning. 

October  14. — Wind  and  tide  being  favorable,  at  daylight  we 
proceeded  up  the  serpentine  creek,  which  winds  through  a  flat 
and  fertile  plain,  sometimes  marshy,  at  others  more  elevated  and 
dry,  to  the  emharcadero,  ten  or  twelve  miles  from  the  bay.  We 
landed  here  between  nine  and  ten  o'clock,  a.  m.  All  the  pas- 
sengers, except  oiu'selves,  proceeded  immediately  to  the  town. 
By  them  we  sent  for  a  cart  to  transport  our  saddles,  bridles,  blan- 
kets, and  other  baggage,  which  we  had  brought  with  us. 
While  some  of  the  sailors  were  preparing  breakfast,  others,  with 
their  muskets,  shot  wild  geese,  with  which  the  plain  was  covered 
An  excellent  breakfast  was  prepared  in  a  short  time  by  oui 
sailor  companions,  of  which  we  partook  with  them.  No  benevo- 
*lent  old  gentleman  provides  more  bountifully  for  his  servants 
than  "  Uncle  Sam."  These  sailors,  from  the  regular  rations 
served  out  to  them  from  their  ship,  gave  an  excellent  breakfast, 
of  bread,  butter,  coffee,  tea,  fresh  beefsteaks,  fried  salt-pork, 
cheese,  pickles,  and  a  variety  of  other  dehcacies,  to  which  we 
had  been  unaccustomed  for  several  months,  and  which  cannot 
be  obtained  at  present  in  this  country.  They  all  said  that 
ilicir  rations  were  more  than  ample  in  quantity,  and  excellent  in 
([uality,  and  that  no  government  was  so  generous  in  supplying 
its  sailors  as  the  government  of  the  United  States.  They  ap- 
peared to  be  happy,  and  contented  with  tlieir  condition  and  ser- 
vice ;  and  animated  with  a  patriotic  pride  for  the  honor  of  theii 
country,  and  the  flag  under  which  they  sailed.  The  open  frank- 
ness, and  honest  patriotism  of  these  single-hearted  and  weatljer- 
beaten  tars,  gave  a  spice  and  flavor  to  our  entertainment  which 
[  shall  not  soon  forget. 

From  the  emharcadero  we  walked,  under  the  influence  of  the 
x\y»  of  an  almusi  broiling  sun,  four  miles  to  the  town  of  Sonoma. 


SONOMA  3S6 

rhe  plain  whicli  lies  between  the  landing  and  Sonoma,  is  tim- 
bered sparsely  with  evergreen  oaks.  The  luxuriant  grass  is  no^ 
brown  and  crisp.  The  hills  surrounding  this  beautiful  valley  or 
plain,  are  gentle,  sloping,  highly  picturesque,  and  covered  tc 
their  tops  with  wild  oats.  Reaching  Sonoma,  we  procured 
lodgings  in  a  large  and  half-finished  adobe  house,  erected  by 
Don  Salvador  Vallejo,  but  now  occupied  by  Mr.  Griffith,  an 
American  emigrant,  originally  from  North  Carohna.  Sonoma 
is  one  of  the  old  mission  establishments  of  California ;  but  there 
is  now  scarcely  a  mission  building  standing,  most  of  them  having 
fallen  into  shapeless  masses  of  mud  ;  and  a  few  years  will  pros- 
trate the  roofless  walls  which  are  now  standing.  The  principal 
houses  in  the  place  are  the  residences  of  Gen.  Don  Mariano 
Guadaloupe  Vallejo,  his  brother-in-law,  Mr.  J.  P.  Leese,  an 
American,  and  his  brother,  Don  Salvador  Vallejo.  The  quartel, 
a  barn-like  adobe  house,  faces  the  pubhc  square.  The  town 
presents  a  most  dull  and  ruinous  appearance ;  but  the  country 
surrounding  it  is  exuberantly  fertile,  and  romantically  picturesque, 
and  Sonoma,  under  American  authority,  and  with  an  American 
population,  will  very  soon  become  a  secondary  commercial  point, 
and  a  delightful  residence.  Most  of  the  buildings  are  erected 
around  a  plaza,  about  two  hundred  yards  square.  The  only 
ornaments  in  this  square  are  numerous  skulls  and  dislocated 
skeletons  of  slaughtered  beeves,  with  which  hideous  remains  the 
ground  is  strewn.  Cold  and  warm  springs  gush  from  the  hills 
near  the  town,  and  supply,  at  all  seasons,  a  sufficiency  of  water 
to  irrigate  any  required  extent  of  ground  on  the  plain  below.  I 
noticed  outside  of  the  square  several  groves  of  peach,  and  other 
fruit-trees,  and  vineyards,  which  were  planted  here  by  the 
padres ;  but  the  walls  and  fences  that  once  surrounded  them 
are  now  fallen,  or  have  been  consumed  for  fuel ;  and  they  are 
exposed  to  the  mercies  of  the  immense  herds  of  cattle  which 
roam  over  and  graze  upon  the  plain. 

October  15. — I  do  not  hke  to  trouble  the  reader  with  a  fre- 
quent reference  to  the  myriads  of  fleas  and  other  vermin  which 
infest  the  rancherias  and  old  mission  estabhshments  in  California; 
but  if  any  sinning  soul  ever  suffered  the  punishments  of  piirga 


336  6EN.  VALLEJO. 

lory  before  leaving  its  tenement  of  clay,  those  torments  were 
endured  by  myself  last  night.  When  I  rose  from  my  blankets 
this  morning,  after  a  sleepless  night,  I  do  not  think  there  was 
an  inch-square  of  my  body  that  did  not  exhibit  the  inflammation 
consequent  upon  a  puncture  by  a  flea,  or  some  other  equally 
rabid  and  poisonous  insect.  Smallpox,  erysipelas,  measles,  and 
scarlet-fever  combined,  could  not  have  imparted  to  my  skin  a 
more  inflamed 'and  sanguineous  appearance.  The  multitudes  of 
these  insects,  however,  have  been  generated  by  Indian  filthiness. 
riiey  do  not  disturb  the  inmates  of  those  casas  where  cleanliness 
prevails. 

Ha\'ing  letters  of  introduction  to  General  Vallejo  and  Mr. 
Leese,  I  delivered  them  this  morning.  General  Vallejo  is  a 
native  Californian,  and  a  gentleman  of  intelhs^ence  and  taste  far 
superior  to  most  of  his  countrymen.  The  interior  of  his  house 
presented  a  diff"erent  appearance  from  any  house  occupied  by 
native  Cahfornians  which  I  have  entered  since  I  have  been  in 
the  country.  Every  apartment,  even  the  main  entrance-hali 
and  corridors,  were  scrupulously  clean,  and  presented  an  air  of 
comfort  which  I  have  not  elsewhere  seen  in  California.  The 
parlor  was  furnished  with  handsome  chairs,  sofas,  mirrors,  and 
tables,  of  mahogany  framework,  and  a  fine  piano,  the  first  I 
have  seen  in  the  country.  Several  paintings  and  some  superioi" 
engravings  ornamented  the  walls.  Senora  Vallejo  is  a  lady  of 
charming  personal  appearance,  and  possesses  in  the  highest 
degree  that  natural  grace,  ease,  and  warmth  of  manners  which 
render  Spanish  ladies  so  attractive  and  fascinating  to  the  stran- 
ger. The  children,  some  five  or  six  in  number,  were  ail  beautiful 
and  interesting.  General  V.  is,  I  believe,  strongly  desirous  that 
the  United  States  shall  retain  and  annex  California.  He  is  thor- 
oughly disgusted  with  Mexican  sway,  which  is  fast  sending  his 
country  backwards,  instead  of  forwards,  n  the  scale  of  civiliza- 
tion, and  for  years  he  has  been  desirous  of  the  change  whicli 
has  now  taken  place. 

In  the  afternoon  we  visited  the  house  of  Mr.  Leese,  which  is 
also  furnished  in  American  style.  Mr.  L.  is  the  proprietor  of  :^ 
rineyard  in  the  virinity  of  the  (own,  and  we  were  regaled  upon 


MR.  LARKIN SIGNS  OF  RAIN.  337 

grapes,  as  luscious,  I  dare  say,  as  the  forbidden  fruit  that 
provoked  the  first  transgression.  Nothing  of  the  fruit  kind 
can  exceed  the  delicious  richness  and  flavor  of  the  California 
grape. 

This  evening  Thomas  0.  Larkin,  Esq.,  late  United  States  Con- 
sul for  California,  arrived  liere,  having  left  San  Francisco  on  the 
same  morning  that  we  did,  travelling  by  land.  Mr.  L.  resides 
in  Monterey,  but  I  had  the  pleasure  of  an  introduction  to  him 
at  San  Francisco  several  days  previous  to  my  leaving  that  place. 
Mr.  L.  is  a  native  of  Boston,  and  has  been  a  resident  in  California 
for  about  fifteen  years,  during  which  time  he  has  amassed  •  a 
large  fortune,  and  from  the  changes  now  taking  place  he  is 
rapidly  increasing  it.  He  will  probably  be  the  first  American 
millionaire  of  CaUfornia. 

October  1*7. — The  last  two  mornings  have  been  cloudy  and 
cool.  The  rainy  season,  it  is  thought  by  the  weather-wise  in 
this  climate,  will  set  in  earlier  this  year  than  usual.  The  period- 
ical rains  ordinarily  commence  about  the  middle  of  November 
Tt  is  now  a  month  earlier,  and  the  meteorological  phenomen;^ 
portend  "falhng  weather."  The  rains  during  the  winter,  in 
California,  are  not  continuous,  as  is  generally  supposed.,  It 
sometimes  rains  during  an  entire  day,  without  cessation ;  but 
most  generally  the  weather  is  showery,  with  intervals  of  bright 
sunshine  and  a  delightful  temperature.  The  first  rains  of  the 
year  fall  usually  in  November,  and  the  last  about  the  middle  of 
May.  As  soon  as  the  ground  becomes  moistened,  the  grass, 
and  other  hardy  vegetation,  springs  up,  and  by  the  middle  of 
December  the  landscape  is  arrayed  in  a  robe  of  fresh  verdure. 
The  grasses  grow  through  the  entire  winter,  and  most  of  them 
mature  by  the  first  of  May.  The  season  for  sowing  wheat  com- 
mences as  soon  as  the  ground  is  sufficiently  softened  by  moisture 
to  admit  of  plowing,  and  continues  until  March  or  April. 

We  had  made  preparations  this  morning  to  visit  a  rancho 
belonging  to  General  Vallejo,  in  company  with  the  general  and 
Mr.  Lai'kin.  This  rancho  contains  about  eleven  leagues  of  land, 
bordering  upon  a  portion  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  twenty- 
five  or  thirty  miles  distant  from  Sonoma.      Just  as  we  wer* 

29 


S38  PETALUMA — SAN  RAFAEL. 

about  mounting  our  horses,  towever,  a  courier  arrived  from  San 
Francisco  with  dispatches  from  Captain  Montgomery,  addressed 
to  Lieutenant  Revere,  the  military  commandant  at  this  post, 
giving  such  intelligence  in  regard  to  the  insurrection  at  the 
south,  that  we  determined  to  return  to  San  Francisco  forthwith 
Procuring  horses,  and  accompanied  by  Mr.  Larkin,  we  left 
Sonoma  about  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  riding  at  the  usual 
CalifoiTiia  speed.  After  lea\ang  Sonoma  plain  we  crossed  a 
ridge  of  hills,  and  entered  the  fertile  and  picturesque  valley  of 
Petaluma  creek,  which  empties  into  the  bay.  General  Vallejn 
has  an  extensive  rancho  in  this  valley,  upon  which  he  has 
recently  erected,  at  great  expense,  a  very  large  house.  Archi- 
tecture, however,  in  this  country  is  in  its  infancy.  The  money 
expended  in  erecting  this  house,  which  presents  to  the  eye  no 
tasteful  architectural  attractions,  would  in  the  United  States 
have  raised  a  palace  of  symmetrical  proportions,  and  adorned 
it  with  every  requisite  ornament.  Large  herds  of  cattle  were 
grazing  in  this  valley. 

From  Petaluma  valley  we  crossed  a  high  rolling  country,  and 
reached  the  mission  of  San  Rafael  (forty-five  miles)  between 
seven  and  eijjht  o'clock  in  the  eveninsr.  San  Rafael  is  situated 
two  or  three  miles  from  the  shore  of  the  bay,  and  commands  an 
extensive  -view  of  the  bay  and  its  islands.  The  mission  buildings 
are  generally  in  the  same  ruinous  condition  I  have  before  de- 
scribed. We  put  up  at  the  house  of  a  Mr.  Murphy,  a  scholastic 
Irish  bachelor,  who  has  been  a  resident  of  California  for  a  num- 
ber of  years.  His  casa,  when  we  arrived,  was  closed,  and  it 
was  with  some  difficulty  that  we  could  gain  admission.  When 
the  occupant  of  the  house  had  ascertained,  from  one  of  the 
loopholes  of  the  building,  who  we  were,  however,  the  doors 
were  soon  unbarred  and  we  were  admitted,  but  not  Avithout 
many  sallies  of  Irish  wit,  sometimes  good-natured,  and  some- 
times keenly  caustic  and  ironical.  We  found  a  table  spread 
with  cold  mutton  and  cold  beef  upon  it.  A  cup  of  coffee  was 
Boon  prepared  by  the  Indian  rruchachos  and  muchachas,  and 
our  host  hrouglit  out  some  scheidara  and  aguardiente.  A 
draught  or  two  of  these  liquids  seemed  to  correct  the  acidity  oi 


SAUSOLITO.  839 

his  humor,  and  he  entertained  us  with  his  jokes  and  conversation 
several  hours. 

October  18. — From  San  Rafael  to  Sausolito,  opposite  San 
Francisco  on  the  north  side  of  the  entrance  to  the  bay,  it  is 
five  leagues,  (fifteen  mUes,)  generally  over  elevated  hills  and 
through  deep  hollows,  the  ascents  and  descents  being  frequent- 
ly steep  and  laborious  to  om*  animals.  Starting  at  half-past 
Beven  o'clock,  we  reached  the  residence  of  Captain  Richardson, 
the  proprietor  of  Sausolito,  about  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning. 
In  travelling  this  distance  we  passed  some  temporary  houses, 
erected  by  American  emigrants  on  the  mission  lands,  and  the 
rancho  of  Mrs.  Reed,  a  widow.  We  immediately  hired  a  whale- 
boat  from  one  of  the  ships  lying  here,  at  two  dollars  for  each 
passenger,  and  between  ten  and  eleven  o'clock  we  landed  in 
San  Francisco. 

I  met,  soon  after  my  arrival,  Mr.  Lippincott,  heretofore  men- 
tioned, who  accompanied  us  a  portion  of  the  distance  over  the 
mountains ;  and  Mr.  Hastings,  who,  with  Mr.  Hudspeth,  con- 
ducted a  party  of  the  emigrants  from  Fort  Bridger  by  the  new 
route,  via  the  south  end  of  the  Salt  lake,  to  Mary's  river. 
From  Mr.  Lippincott  I  learned  the  particulars  of  an  engage- 
ment between  a  party  of  the  emigrants  (Captain  West's  com- 
pany) and  the  Indians  on  Mary's  ri\^er,  which  resulted,  as  has 
before  been  stated,  in  the  death  of  Mr.  Sallee  and  a  dangerous 
arrow  wound  to  Mr.  L.  He  had  now,  however,  recovered 
from  the  effects  of  the  wound.  The  emigrants  which  accom- 
panied Messrs.  Hastings  and  Hudspeth,  or  followed  their  trail, 
had  all  reached  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento  without  any 
material  loss  or  disaster. 

I  remained  at  San  Francisco  from  the  18th  to  the  22d  of 
October.  The  weather  during  this  time  was  suflBciently  cool  to 
render  fires  necessary  to  comfort  in  the  houses;  but  fireplaces 
or  stoves  are  luxuries  which  but  few  of  the  San  Franciscans  have 
any  knowledge  of,  except  in  their  kitchens.  This  deficiency, 
however,  will  soon  be  remedied.  American  settlers  here  vn\] 
not  build  houses  without  chimneys.  They  would  as  soon  plan 
a  hoose  without  %  door,  or  with  the  entrance  upon  its  roof,  in 


340  ANOTHER    VOYAGE. 

imitation  of  the  architecture  of  the  Pueblo  Indiana  of  Nen 
Mexico. 


CHAPTER   XXVIII. 

Boat  trip  up  the  bay  and  the  Sacramento  to  New  Helvetia — Aa  appeal  to 
the  alcalde — Kanackas^^Straits  of  San  Pueblo  and  Pedro — Straits  of 
Carquinez — Town  of  Francisca — Feather-beds  furnished  by  nature — 
Mouth  of  the  Sacramento — Islands — Delaware  Tom — A  man  who  has 
forgotten  his  mother  tongue — Salmon  of  .the  Sacramento — Indian  fisher- 
men— Arrive  at  New  Helvetia. 

October  22. — Having  determined  to  make  a  trip  to  Nueva 
Helvetia  by  water,  for  the  purpose  of  examining  more  particu- 
larly the  upper  portion  of  the  bay  and  the  Sacramento  river, 
in  conjunction  with  Mr.  Larkin,  we  chartered  a  small  open 
sailboat  for  the  exctu-sion.  The  charter,  to  avoid  disputes, 
was  regularly  drawn  and  signed,  with  all  conditions  specified. 
The  price  to  be  paid  for  a  certain  number  of  passengers  was 
thirty-two  dollars,  and  demurrage  at  the  rate  of  twenty-fi\'e 
cents  per  hour  for  all  delays  ordered  by  the  charter-party,  on 
the  trip  upwards  to  Nueva  Helvetia.  The  boat  was  to  be 
ready  at  the  most  convenient  landing  at  seven  o'clock  this 
morning,  but  when  I  called  at  the  place  appointed,  with  oui 
baggage,  the  boat  was  not  there.  In  an  hour  or  two  the  skip- 
per was  found,  but  refused  to  comply  with  his  contract.  We 
immediately  laid  our  grievance  before  the  alcalde,  who,  after 
reading  the  papers  and  hearing  the  statements  on  both  sides, 
ordered  the  skipper  to  perform  what  he  liad  agreed  to  perform, 
to  which  decision  he  reluctantly  assented.  In  order  to  facili- 
Uite  matters,  I  paid  the  costs  of  the  action  myself,  although  the 
Kuccessful  litigant  in  the  suit. 

Wf  left  San  Francisco  about  two  o'clock,  p.  m.,  and  crossing 
the  moutli  of  the  bay,  boa»ded  a  Mexican  schooner,  a  prize 
captured  by  the  U.  S.  sloop-of-war  Cyane,  Captain  Dupont 


KANACKAS.  34 1 

which  had  entered  the  hay  this  morning  and  anchored  in  front 
of  Sausolito.  The  prize  is  commanded  by  Lieutenant  Ren- 
shaw,  a  gallant  officer  of  our  navy.  Our  object  in  boarding 
the  schooner  was  to  learn  the  latest  news,  but  she  did  not  bring 
much.  We  met  on  board  the  schooner  Lieutenant  Hunter  of 
the  Portsmouth,  a  chivalrous  officer,  and  Lieutenant  Ruducoff. 
commanding  the  Russian  brig  previously  mentioned,  whose 
vessel,  preparatory  to  sailing,  was  taking  in  water  at  Sausolito, 
Accepting  of  his  pressing  imitation,  we  visited  the  brig,  and 
took  a  parting  glass  of  wine  with  her  gallant  and  gentlemanly 
commander. 

About  five  o'clock,  p.  m.,  we  proceeded  on  our  voyage.  At 
eight  o'clock  a  dense  fog  hung  over  the  bay,  and  the  ebb-tide 
being  adverse  to  our  progress,  we  were  compelled  to  find  a 
landing  for  our  small  and  frail  craft.  This  was  not  an  easy 
matter,  in  the  almost  impenetrable  darkness.  As  good  luck 
would  have  it,  however,  after  we  had  groped  about  for  some 
time,  a  light  was  discovered  by  our  skipper.  He  rowed  the 
boat  towards  it,  but  grounded.  Hauling  off,  he  made  another 
attempt  with  better  success,  reaching  within  hailing  distance  of 
the  shore.  Tlie  light  proceeded  from  a  cam"p-fire  of  three 
Kanacka  (Sandwich  island)  runaway  sailors.  As  soon  as  they 
ascertained  who  we  were  and  what  we  wanted,  they  stripped 
themselves  naked,  and  wading  through  the  mud  and  water  to 
the  boat,  took  us  on  their  shoulders,  and  carried  us  high  and 
dry  to  the  land.  Tlie  boat  being  thus  lightened  of  her  burden, 
was  rowed  farther  up  and  landed. 

The  natives  of  the  Sandwich  islands  (Kanackas,  as  they  are 
called)  are,  without  doubt,  the  most  expert  watermen  in  the 
world.  Their  performances  in  swimming  and  diving  are  so  ex- 
traordinary, that  they  ma)^  almost  be  considered  amphibious  in 
their  natures  and  instincts.  Water  appears  to  be  as  much  their 
natural  element  as  the  land.  They  have  straight  black  hair,  good 
features,  and  an  amiable  and  intelligent  expression  of  counte- 
nance. Their  complexion  resembles  that  of  a  bright  mulatto  • 
and  in  syrametrical  proportions  and  muscular  developments. 
they  will  advantageously  compare  ^vith  any  race  of  men  I  hav* 

29* 


342  STRAITS  OF  CARQUINEI 

leen.  The  crews  of  many  of  the  whale  and  merchant  sUps  oB 
this  coast  are  partly  composed  of  Kanackas,  and  they  are 
justly  esteemed  as  most  valuable  sailors. 

October  23. — The  damp,  raw  weather,  'auguring  the  near  ap- 
proach of  the  autumnal  rams,  contmues.  A  diizzhng  mist  fell 
on  us  dming  the  night,  and  the  clouds  were  not  dissipated 
when  we  resumed  our  voyage  this  morning.  Passing  througl. 
the  straits  of  San  Pablo  and  San  Pedro,  we  entered  a  di\'ision 
of  the  bay  called  the  Bay  of  San  Pablo.  Wind  and  tide  being 
in  our  favor,  we  crossed  this  sheet  of  water,  and  afterwards 
entered  and  passed  through  the  straits  of  Carquinez.  At  these 
straits  the  waters  of  the  bay  are  compressed  within  the  breadtli 
of  a  mile,  for  the  distance  of  about  two  leagues.  On  the  south- 
em  side  the  shore  is  hilly,  and  cartoned  in  some  places.  The 
northern  shore  is  gentle,  the  hUls  and  table-land  slopmg  grad- 
ually down  to  the  water.  We  landed  at  the  bend  of  the  straits 
of  Carquinez,  and  spent  several  hours  in  examining  the  country 
and  soundings  on  the  northern  side.  There  is  no  timber  here. 
The  soil  is  covered  with  a  growth  of  grass  and  wild  oats.  The 
bend  of  the  straits  of  Carquinez,  on  the  northern  side,  has  been 
thought  to  be  a  favorable  position  for  a  commercial  town.  It 
has  some  advantages  and  some  disadvantages,  which  it  would 
be  tedious  for  me  now  to  detail. 

[Subsequently  to  this  my  first  visit  here,  a  town  of  extensi^'e 
dimensions  has  been  laid  off  by  Gen.  Vallejo  and  Mr.  Semple, 
the  proprietors,  under  the  name  of  "Fra»cisca."  It  fronts 
for  two  or  three  raUes  on  the  "  Soeson,^'  the  upper  di\'ision  oi 
the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  and  the  straits  of  Carquinez.  A 
feiry  has  also  been  established,  which  crosses  regularly  from 
shore  to  shore,  conveying  travellers  over  the  bay.  I  crossed, 
myself  and  horses,  here  in  June.  1847,  when  on  my  return 
to  the  United  States.  Lots  had  then  been  offered  to  settlers  on 
favorable  conditions,  and  preparations,  I  imderstood,  were 
maldng  for  the  erection  of  a  number  of  houses.] 

About  sunset,  we  resumed  our  voyage.  Tlie  wjnd  having 
lulled,  we  attempted  to  stem  the  adverse  tide  by  the  use  ol 
oars,  but  the  ebb  of  the  tide  was  stronger  than  the  propelling 


MOUTH    OF    THE  SACRAMENTO.  343 

force  of  our  oars.  Soon,  in  spite  of  all  our  exertions,  we  found 
ourselves  drifting  rapidly  backwards,  and  after  two  or  three 
hours  of  hard  labor  in  the  dark,  we  were,  at  last,  so  fortunate 
as  to  effect  a  landing  in  a  cove  on  the  southern  side  of  th€ 
straits,  having  retrograded  several  miles.  In  the  cove  there  is 
a  small  sandy  beach,  upon  which  the  waves  have  dcifted  and 
deposited  a  large  quantity  of  oat-straw,  and  feathers  shed  by 
the  millions  of  water-fowls  which  sport  upon  the  bay.  On  thif 
downy  deposite  furnished  by  nature,  we  spread  our  blankets 
and  slept  soundly, 

October  24. — We  proceeded  on  our  voyage  at  daylight 
coasting  along  the  southern  shore  of  the  Soeson.  About  nin< 
o'clock  we  landed  on  a  marshy  plain,  and  cooked  breakfast.  A 
range  of  mountains  bounds  this  plain,  the  base  of  which  is 
several  miles  from  the  shore  of  the  bay.  These  moimtains, 
although  of  considerable  elevation,  exhibit  signs  of  fertihty 
to  their  simamits.  On  the  plain,  numerous  herds  of  wild  cattle 
were  grazing.  About  two  o'clock,  i'.  m.,  we  entered  tht 
mouth  of  the  Sacramento.  The  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin 
rivers  empty  into  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  at  the  same  point, 
about  sixty  miles  from  the  Pacific,  and  by  numerous  mouths,  or 
sloughs  as  they  are  here  called.  These  sloughs  wind  through 
an  immense  timbered  swamp,  and  constitute  a  terraqueous  laby- 
rinth of  such  intricacy,  that  unskilful  and  inexperienced  naviga- 
tors have  been  lost  for  many  days  in  it,  and  some,  I  have 
been  told,  have  perished,  never  finding  their  way  out.  A  range 
of  low  sloping  hills  approach  the  Sacramento  a  short  distance 
above  its  mouth,  on  the  left-hand  side  as  you  ascend,  and  run 
parallel  with  the  stream  several  miles.  The  banks  of  the  river, 
and  several  large  islands  which  we  passed  during  the  day,  are 
timbered  with  sycamore,  oak,  and  a  variety  of  smaller  trees  and 
shi-ubbery.  Numerous  grape-vines,  climbing  over  the  trees, 
and  loaded  down  with  a  small  and  very  acid  fruit,  give  to  the 
forest  a  tangled  appearance.  The  islands  of  the  Sacramento 
are  all  low,  and  subject  to  overflow  in  the  spring  of  the  year. 
ITie  soil  of  the  river  bottom,  including  the  islands,  is  covered 
iritb   rank  vegetation,  a  certain  evidence  of  its  fertility      Th« 


344  WALLA-WALLA    INDIANS. 

water,  at  this  season,  is  perfectly  limpid,  and  a_tbougli  the  tid* 
ebbs  and  flows  more  than  a  hundred  miles  above  the  mouth  of 
the  river,  it  is  fresh  and  sweet.  The  channel  of  the  Sacramento 
is  remarkably  free  from  snags  and  other  obsti-uctions  to  navi- 
gation. A  more  beautiful  and  placid  stream  of  water  I  never 
saw. 

At  twelve  o'clock  at  night,  the  ebb  tide  being  so  strong  that 
we  found  ourselves  drifting  backwards,  with  some  difficulty  we 
effected  a  landing  on  one  of  the  islands,  clearing  a  way  through 
the  tangled  brush  and  Aines  with  our  hatchets  and  knives. 
Lighting  a  fire,  we  bivouacked  until  daylight. 

October  25. — Continuing  our  voyage,  we  landed  about  nine 
o'clock,  A.  M.,  at  an  Indian  rancheria,  situated  on  the  bank  of  the 
river.  An  old  Indian,  his  wife,  and  two  or  three  cliildren, 
were  all  the  present  occupants  of  this  rancheria.  The  woman 
was  the  most  miserable  and  emaciated  object  I  ever  beheld. 
She  was  probably  a  victim  of  the  "  sweat-house."  Surrounding 
the  rancheria  were  two  or  three  acres  of  ground,  planted  with 
maize,  beans,  and  melons.  Purchasing  a  quantity  of  water  and 
muskmelons,  we  re-embarked  and  pursued  our  voyage.  As 
we  ascended  the  stream  the  banks  became  more  elevated,  the 
countiy  on  both  sides  opening  into  vast  savamias,  dotted  occa- 
sionally with  parks  of  evergreen  oak. 

The  tide  turning  against  us  again  about  eleven  or  twelve 
o'clock,  we  landed  at  an  encampment  of  Walla -Walla  Indians,  a 
portion  of  the  party  previously  refej'red  to,  and  reported  to  have 
visited  California  for  hostile  purposes.  Among  them  was  a 
Delaware  Indian,  knewn  as  "  Delaware  Tom,"  who  speaks  Eng- 
lish as  fluently  as  any  Anglo-Saxon,  and  is  a  most  gallant  and 
honorable  Indian.  Several  of  the  party,  a  majority  of  whom 
were  women  and  chiliren,  were  sick  with  chills  and  fever.  The 
men  were  engaged  in  hunting  and  jerking  deei'  and  elk  meat. 
Throwing  our  hooks,  baited  with  fresli  meat,  into  the  river,  we 
soon  drew  out  small  fish  enougli  for  dinner. 

I^he  specimens  of  Walla- Wallas  at  this  encampment  are  far 
superior  to  the  Indians  of  California  in  features,  figure,  and  in- 
telligence    Their  complexion  is  much  lighter,  and  their  fea- 


SALMON  OF  THE  SACRAMENTO.  34^ 

tures  more  regular,  expressive,  and  pleasing.  Men  aui!  women 
were  clothed  in  dressed  skins.  The  men  were  armed  with 
rifles. 

At  sunset  we  put  our  little  craft  in  motion  again,  and  at  one 
o'clock  at  night  landed  near  the  cabin  of  a  German  emigrant 
named  Schwartz,  six  miles  below  the  embarcadero  of  New  Hel- 
vetia. The  cabin  is  about  twenty  feet  in  length  by  twelve  in 
breadth,  constructed  of  a  light,  rude  frame,  shingled  with  tule. 
After  gaining  admission,  we  found  a  fire  blazing  in  the  centre  of 
the  dwelhng  on  the  earth-floor,  and  suspended  over  us  were  as 
many  salmon,  taken  from  the  Sacramento,  as  could  be  placed  in 
position  to  imbibe  the  preservative  qualities  of  the  smoke. 

Our  host,  Mr.  Schwartz,  is  one  of  those  eccentric  human 
phenomena  rarely  met  with,  who,  wandering  from  their  own  na- 
tion into  foreign  countries,  forget  their  own  language  without 
acquiring  any  other.  He  speaks  a  tongue  (language  it  cannot 
be  called)  pecuhar  to  himself,  and  scarcely  intelhgible.  It  is 
a  mixture,  in  about  equal  parts,  of  German,  English,  French, 
Spanish,  and  rancheria  Indian,  a  compounded  polyglot  or  lin- 
gual pi — each  syllable  of  a  word  sometimes  being  derived  from 
a  difierent  language.  Stretching  ourselves  on  the  benches 
smTOimding  the  fire,  so  as  to  avoid  the  drippings  from  the 
pendent  salmon,  we  slept  until  morning. 

October  26. — Mr.  Schwartz  provided  us  with  a  breakfast  of 
fried  salmon  and  some  fresh  milk.  Coffee,  sugar,  and  bread 
we  brought  with  us,  so  that  we  enjoyed  a  luxurious  repast. 

Near  the  house  was  a  shed  contaming  some  forty  or  fifty 
barrels  of  pickled  salmon,  but  the  fish,  from  their  having  been 
badly  put  up,  were  spoiled.  Mr.  Schwartz  attempted  to  explain 
the  particular  causes  of  this,  but  I  could  not  understand  him. 
The  salmon  are  taken  with  seines  dragged  across  the  channel 
of  the  river  by  Indians  in  canoes.  On  the  bank  of  the  river 
the  Indians  were  eating  their  breakfast,  which  consisted  of  a 
large  fresh  salmon,  roasted  in  tlie  ashes  or  embers,  and  a  kettle 
of  atdle,  made  of  acom-meal.  The  salmon  was  four  or  five 
feet  in  length,  and  when  taken  out  of  the  fire  and  cut  open, 
presented  a  most  tempting  appearance.     The  Indians  wenj  al] 


346  SDPFEKINGis  UK  MR.  REED. 

nearly  naked,  and  most  of  them  having  been  wading  in  the 
water  at  daylight  to  set  their  seines,  were  shivering  with  the 
cold  whilst  greedily  devouring  their  morning  meal. 

We  reached  the  emharcadero  of  New  Helvetia  about  eleven 
o'clock,  A.  M.,  and  finding  there  a  wagon,  we  placed  our  bag- 
••age  m  it  and  walked  to  the  fort,  about  two  and  a  half  miles. 


CHAPTER    XXIX. 

Disastrous  news  from  the  south — Return  of  Colonel  Fremont  to  Monterey — 
Call  for  volunteers — Volunteer  our  services — Leave  New  Helvetia — 
Swimming  the  Sacramento — First  fall  of  rain — Beautiful  and  romantid 
valley — Precipitous  mountains — Deserted  house — Arable  land  of  Cali 
fornia — Fattening  qualities  of  the  acorn — Lost  in  the  Coast  Mountains- 
Strange  Indians — Indian  women  gathering  grass-seed  for  bread — ludiat, 
guide — Laguna — Rough  dialogue — Hunters'  camp — "  Old  Greenwood"— 
Grisly  bear  meat — Greenwood's  account  of  himself — His  opinion  of  the 
Indians  and  Spaniards — Retrace  our  steps — Severe  storm — Nappa  valley 
— Arrive  at  Sonoma — More  rain — Arrive  at  San  Fram^isco — Return  to 
New  Helvetia. 

I  REMAINED  at  the  fort  from  the  27th  to  the  30th  of  October. 
On  the  28th,  Mr.  Reed,  whom  I  have  before  mentioned  as  be- 
longing to  the  rear  emigrating  party,  arrived  here.  He  left  his 
party  on  Mary's  river,  and  in  company  vdth  one  man  crossed  the 
desert  and  the  mountains.  He  was  several  days  without  pro- 
visions, and  when  he  arrived  at  Johnson's,  was  so  much  ema- 
ciated and  exhausted  by  fatigue  and  famine,  that  he  could 
scarcely  walk.  His  object  was  to  procure  provisions  immediately, 
and  to  transport  them  with  pack -mules  over  the  mountains  for 
the  relief  of  the  suffering  emigrants  behind.  He  had  lost  all 
of  his  cattle,  and  had  been  compelled  to  cache  two  of  his  wag-^ 
ons  and  most  of  his  property.  Captain  Sutter  generously  fur- 
nished the  requisite  quantity  of  mules  and  horses,  with  Indian 
raqueros,  and  jerked  meat,  and  flour.  This  is  the  second  ex- 
oedition  for  the  relief  cf  the  emigrants  he  has  fitted  out  sinoe 


MORE  RUMORS  OF  WAR.  84** 

JUT  arrival  iu  the  country.  Ex-governor  Boggs  and  family 
reached  Sutter's  Fort  to-day. 

On  the  evening  of  the  28tli,  a  courier  arrived  with  letters 
from  Colonel  Fremont,  now  at  Monterey.  The  substance  of 
the  intelligence  received  by  the  courier  was,  that  a  large  force 
of  Califomians  (varying,  according  to  different  reports,  from  five 
to  fifteen  hundred  strong)  had  met  the  marines  and  sailors,  four 
hundred  strong,  under  the  command  of  Captain  Mer^dne,  of  the 
U.  S.  frigate  Savannah,  wlio  had  landed  at  San  Pedro  for  the 
purpose  of  marching  to  Los  Angeles,  and  had  driven  Captain 
Mervine  and  his  force  back  to  the  sliip,  with  the  loss,  in  killed, 
of  six  men.  That  the  towns  of  Angeles  and  Santa  Barbara  had 
been  taken  by  the  insurgents,  and  the  American  garrisons  there 
had  either  been  captured  or  had  made  their  escape  by  retreat- 
ing. What  had  become  of  them  was  unknown.*  Colonel 
Fremont,  who  I  before  mentioned  had  sailed  with  a  party  of 
one  hundred  and  eighty  volunteers  from  San  Francisco  to  San 
Pedro,  or  San  Diego,  for  the  purpose  of  co-operating  with 
Commodore  Stockton,  after  ha\dng  been  some  time  at  sea,  had 
put  into  Monterey  and  landed  his  men,  and  his  purpose  now 
was  to  increase  his  force  and  mount  them,  and  to  proceed  by 
land  to  Los  Angeles. 

On  the  receipt  of  this  intelligence,  I  immediately  drew  up  a 
paper  which  was  signed  by  myself,  Messrs.  Reed,  Jacob,  Lip- 
pincott,  and  Grayson,  offering  our  services  as  volunteers,  and 
our  exertions  to  raise  a  force  of  emigrants  and  Indians  which 
would  be  a  sufficient  reinforcement  to  Colonel  Fremont.  This 
paper  was  addressed  to  Mr.  Kern,  the  commandant  of  Fort 
Sacramento,  and  required  his  sanction.  The  next  morning 
(29th)  he  accepted  of  our  proposal,  and  the  labor  of  raising  the 
vohmteers  and  of  procuring  the  necessary  clothing  and  sup- 
plies for  them  and  the  Indians  was  apportioned. 

It  commenced  raining  on  the  night  of  the  twenty-eighth,  and 

*  The  garrison  under  Captain  Gillespie,  at  Los  Angeles,  capitulated. 
The  garrison  at  Santa  Barbara,  under  Lieutenant  Talbot,  marched  out  iu 
defiance  of  the  enemy,  and  after  suffering  many  hardships  arrived  in  safety 
tt  Monterey. 


348  RAISING    VOLUNTEERS 

the  raiii  fell  heavily  and  steadily  until  twelve  o'clock,  m.,  on  the 
twenty-ninth.  This  is  the  first  fall  of  rain  since  March  last. 
About  one  o'clock,  p.  m.,  the  clouds  cleared  away  and  the 
weather  and  temperature  were  delightful. 

Abovit  twelve  o'clock,  on  the  30th,  accompanied  by  Mr. 
Grayson,  I  left  New  Helvetia.  We  crossed  the  Sacramento  at 
the  emharcadero,  swimming  our  horses,  and  passing  ourselves 
over  in  a  small  canoe.  The  method  of  swimming  horses  over  so 
broad  a  stream  as  the  Sacramento  is  as  follows.  A  light  canoe, 
or  "  dug-out,"  is  manned  by  three  persons,  one  at  the  bow, 
one  at  the  stem,  and  one  m  the  centre  ;  those  at  the  bow  and 
stern  have  paddles,  and  propel  and  steer  the  craft.  The  man  in 
the  centre  holds  the  horses  one  on  each  side,  keeping  their 
heads  out  of  water.  When  the  horses  are  first  forced  into  the 
deep  water  they  struggle  prodigiously,  and  sometimes  upset  the 
canoe ;  but  when  the  canoe  gets  fairly  imder  way,  they  cease 
their  resistance,  but  snort  loudly  at  every  breath  to  clear  their 
mouths  and  nostrils  of  the  water. 

Proceeding  ten  miles  over  a  level  plain,  we  overtook  a  com- 
pany of  emigrants  bomid  for  Nappa  valley,  and  encamped  with 
them  for  the  night  on  Puta  creek,  a  tributary  of  the  Sacra- 
mento. Five  of  the  seven  or  eight  men  belonging  to  the  com- 
pany enrolled  their  names  as  volunteers.  The  grass  on  the 
western  side  of  the  Sacramento  is  very  rank  and  of  an  excellent 
quality. 

It  commenced  raining  about  two  o'clock  on  the  morning  of 
the  31st,  and  continued  to  rain  and  mist  all  day.  We  crossed 
from  Putu  to  Cache  ci'cek,  i-eaching  the  residence  of  Mr. 
Gordon  (25  miles)  about  three  o'clock,  i'.  m.  Here  we  enrolled 
several  additional  emigrants  in  our  list  of  volunteers,  and  theii 
travelled  fifteen  miles  up  the  creek  to  a  small  log-house,  occu 
pied  temporarily  by  some  of  the  younger  members  of  tht 
family  of  Mr.  Gordon,  who  emigrated  from  Jackson  count). 
Mo.,  this  year,  and  by  Mrs.  Grayson.  Here  we  remained  during 
the  night,  glad  to  find  a  shelter  and  a  fire,  for  we  were  drenched 
to  our  skins. 

On  the  morninu:  of  the    1st  of  Novcmljcr  the  sun  shoDiS  ont 


ROMANTIC  VALLEYS.  349 

warm  and  pleasant.  The  birds  were  singing,  chattering;,  and 
flitting  from  tree  to  tree,  through  the  romantic  and  pictm-esque 
valley  where  we  had  slept  during  the  night.  The  scenery  and 
its  adjuncts  were  so  charming  and  enticing  that  I  recommenced 
my  travels  with  reluctance.  No  scenery  can  be  more  beautiful 
than  that  of  the  small  valleys  of  California.  Ascending  the 
range  of  elevated  moimtains  which  border  the  Cache  creek, 
we  had  a  most  extensive  view  of  the  broad  plain  of  the 
Sacramento,  stretching  with  islands  and  belts  of  timber  far 
away  to  the  south  as  the  eye  could  penetrate.  The  gorges 
and  summits  of  these  mountains  are  timbered  with  large  puies, 
firs,  and  cedars,  with  a  smaller  growth  of  magnolias,  manzani- 
tas,  hawthorns,  etc.,  etc.  Travelling  several  miles  over  a  level 
plateau,  we  descended  into  a  beautiful  valley,  richly  carpeted 
with  grass  and  timbered  with  evergreen  oak.  Proceeding  across 
this  three  or  four  miles,  we  rose  another  range  of  mountains, 
and  travelling  a  league  along  the  summit  ridge,  we  descended 
through  a  crevice  in  a  steep  rocky  precipice,  just  sufficient  in 
breadth  to  admit  the  passage  of  our  animals.  Our  horses  were 
frequently  compelled  to  slide  or  leap  down  nearly  perpendicular 
rocks  or  stairs,  until  we  finally,  just  after  sunset,  reached  the 
bottom  of  the  mountain,  and  found  ourselves  in  another  level 
and  most  fertile  and  picturesque  valley. 

We  knew  that  in  this  valley,  of  considerable  extent,  there  was 
a  house  known  as  "  Barnett's,"  where  we  expected  to  find 
quarters  for  the  night.  There  were  nimaerous  traUs  of  cattle, 
horses,  deer,  and  other  wild  animals,  crossing  each  other  in 
ever)''  direction  through  the  live-oak  timber.  We  followed  one 
of  the  largest  of  the  cattle  trails  untU  it  became  so  blind  that 
we  could  not  see  it.  Taking  another,  we  did  the  same,  and  the 
result  was  the  same  :  another  and  another,  with  no  better  suc- 
cess. We  then  shouted  so  loud  that  our  voices  were  echoed 
and  re-echoed  by  the  surrounding  mountains,  hoping  if  there 
were  any  inhabitants  in  the  valley,  that  they  would  respond  to  ua. 
There  was  no  response, — all  was  silent  when  the  sound  of  our 
voices  died  away  in  the  gorges  and  ravines ;  and  at  ten  o'clock 
at  night  we  encamped  under  the  wide-spreading  branches  of  aft 

30 


350         DB8ERTED  HOUSE ARABLE  LAND. 

oak,  having  travelled  about  40  miles.  Striking  a  fire  and  heap- 
ing upon  it  a  large  quantity  of  wood,  which  blazed  brightl), 
displaying  the  gothic  shapes  of  the  surrounding  oaks,  we  pick- 
eted our  animals,  spread  our  blankets,  and  slept  soundly. 

It  rained  several  hours  during  the  night,  and  in  the  morning 
a  dense  fog  filled  the  valley.  Saddling  our  animals,  we  searched 
along  the  foot  of  the  next  range  of  mountains  for  a  trail,  but 
could  find  none.  Returning  to  our  camp,  we  proceeded  up  the 
valley,  and  struck  a  trail,  by  following  which  two  mUes,  we 
came  to  the  house,  (Barnett's.)  The  door  was  ajar,  and  en- 
tering the  dwelling  we  found  it  tenantless.  The  hearth  was 
cold,  and  the  ashes  in  the  jambs  of  the  large  fireplace  were  baked. 
In  the  corners  of  the  building  there  were  some  frames,  upon 
which  beds  had  b'een  once  spread.  The  house  e^^dently  had 
been  abandoned  by  its  former  occupants  for  some  time.  The 
prolific  mothers  of  several  families  of  the  swinish  species,  with 
their  squealing  progenies,  gathered  around  us,  in  full  expecta- 
tion, doubtless,  of  the  dispensation  of  an  extra  ration,  which  we 
had  not  to  give.  Having  eaten  nothing  but  a  crust  of  bread 
for  24  hours,  the  inclination  of  our  appetites  was  strong  to  draw 
upon  them  for  a  ration ;  but  for  old  acquaintance  sake,  and  be- 
cause they  were  the  foreshadowing  of  the  "  manifest  destiny," 
they  were  permitted  to  pass  without  molestation.  There  were 
two  or  three  small  enclosiu-es  near  the  house,  where  corn  and 
wheat  had  been  planted  and  harvested  this  year ;  but  none  of 
the  product  of  the  harvest  could  be  found  in  the  empty  house, 
or  on  the  place.  Dismounting  from  our  horses  at  a  limpid 
spring-branch  near  the  house,  we  slaked  our  thirst,  and  made 
our  hydropathical  breakfast  from  its  cool  and  delicious  water. 

Altliough  the  trail  of  the  valley  did  not  run  in  our  course, 
still,  under  the  expectation  that  it  would  soon  take  another  di- 
rection, we  followed  it,  passing  over  a  fertile  soil,  sufficientl)' 
timbered  and  watered  by  several  small  streams.  The  quan-. 
tily  of  arable  land  in  California,  I  believe,  is  much  greater 
than  lias  generally  been  supposed  from  the  accounts  of  the 
.  country  given  by  travellers  who  have  visited  only  the  parts  on  the 
Pacific,  and  liome  it^  of  the  missions.     Most  of  the  mcuntain 


MOUNTAINS  AND  VALLEYS.  35 

nJIeys  between  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  the  coast  are  exube- 
rantly fertile,  and  finely  watered,  and  will  produce  crops  of  all 
kinds,  while  the  hUls  are  covered  with  oats  and  grass  of  the 
most  nutritious  qualities,  for  the  sustenance  of  cattle,  horses,  and 
hogs.  The  acorns  which  fall  from  the  oaks  are,  of  themselves, 
a  rich  annual  product  for  the  fattening  of  hogs  ;  and  during  the 
period  of  transition  (four  or  five  weeks  after  the  rains  commence 
falling)  from  the  dry  grass  to  the  fresh  growth,  horses,  mules, 
and  even  horned  cattle,  -mostly  subsist  and  fatten  upon  these 
large  and  oleaginous  nuts. 

We  left  the  valley  in  a  warm  and  genial  sunshine,  about  1 1 
o'clock,  and  commenced  ascending  another  hia:h  mountain, 
timbered  as  those  I  have  previously  described.  When  we 
reached  the  summit  we  were  enveloped  in  clouds,  and  the  rain 
was  falling  copiously,  and  a  wintry  blast  drove  the  cold  element 
to  our  skins.  Crossing  this  mountain  three  or  four  miles,  we 
descended  its  steep  sides,  and  entered  another  beautiful  and 
romantic  hollow,  divided  as  it  were  into  various  apartments  by 
short  ranges  of  low  conical  hills,  covered  to  their  summits  with 
grass  and  wild  oats.  The  grass  and  other  vegetation  on  the 
level  bottom  are  very  rank,  indicating  a  soil  of  the  most  prolific 
quaUties.  In  winding  through  this  valley,  we  met  four  In- 
dians on  foot,  armed  with  long  bows,  and  arrows  of  corre- 
sponding weight  and  length,  weapons  that  I  have  not  previousl)'- 
seen  among  the  Indians.  Their  complexions  were  lighter  than 
those  of  the  rancheria  Indians  of  California.  They  evidently 
belonged  to  some  more  northern  tribe.  We  stopped  them  to 
make  inquiries,  but  they  seemed  to  know  nothing  of  the  country, 
nor  could  we  learn  from  them  from  whence  they  came  or  where 
they  were  going.  They  were  clothed  in  dressed  skins,  and  two 
of  them  were  highly  rouged. 

Ascending  and  descending  gradually  over  some  low  hills,  we 
entered  another  circular  valley,  through  which  flows  a  stream, 
the  waters  of  which,  judging  from  its  channel,  at  certain  sea- 
sons are  broad  and  deep.  The  ground,  from  the  rains  that 
have  recently  fallen  and  are  now  falling,  is  very  soft,  and  we 
had  difficulty  in  urging  our  tired  animals  across  this  valley.    We 


352  INE      N    RANCHERIA. 

soon  discovered  fresh  cattle  signs,  and  afterwards  a  large  herd 
grazing  near  the  stream.  Farther  on,  we  saw  five  old  and  mis- 
erably emaciated  Indian  women,  gathering  grass-seed  for 
bread.  This  process  is  performed  with  two  baskets,  one  shaped 
like  a  round  shield,  and  the  other  having  a  basin  and  handle. 
With  the  shield  the  top  of  the  grass  is  brushed,  and  the  seed 
by  the  motion  is  thrown  into  the  deep  basket  held  in  the  other 
hand.  The  five  women  appeared  at  a  distance  hke  so  many 
mowers  cutting  down  the  grass  of  a  meadow.  These  women 
could  give  us  no  satisfaction  in  response  to  inquiries,  but 
pointed  over  the  river,  indicating  that  we  should  there  find  the 
casa  and  ranckeria.  They  tlien  continued  theh  work  with  as 
much  zeal  and  industry  as  if  their  lives  were  dependent  upon 
the  proceeds  of  theh  labor,  and  I  suppose  they  were. 

Crossing  the  river,  we  struck  a  trail  which  led  us  to  the  casa 
and  ranckeria,  about  two  miles  distant.  The  casa  was  a  small 
adobe  building,  about  twelve  feet  square,  and  was  locked  up. 
Finding  that  admission  was  not  to  be  gained  here,  we  hailed  at 
the  ranckeria,  and  presently  some  dozen  squalid  and  naked 
men,  women,  and  children  made  then"  appearance.  We  inquired 
for  the  mayor  domo,  or  overseer.  The  chief  speaker  signified 
that  he  was  absent,  and  that  he  did  not  expect  him  to  return 
until  several  suns  rose  and  set.  We  then  signified  that  we  were 
hungry,  and  very  soon  a  loaf  made  of  pulverized  acorns,  min- 
gled with  wild  fruit  of  some  kind,  was  brought  to  us  with  a 
basket  of  water.  These  Indians  .manufacture  small  baskets 
which  are  impervious  to  water,  and  they  are  used  as  basins  to 
diink  from,  and  for  other  purposes. 

I  knew  that  we  had  been  travelling  out  of  our  course  all 
day,  and  it  was  now  three  o'clock,  p.  m.  Rain  and  mist  had 
succeeded  each  other,  and  the  sun  was  hidden  from  us  by  dark 
and  threatening  mas  ?es  of  clouds.  We  had  no  compass  with 
us,  and  could  not  determine  the  course  to  Nappa  valley  or 
Sonoma.  Believing  that  the  Indian  would  have  some  know- 
ledge of  the  latter  place,  we  made  him  comprehend  that  we 
wished  to  go  there,  and  mquired  the  route.  He  pointed  in  a 
direction  which  he  signified  would   take  us  to  Sonoma.     We 


ROUGH  CUSTOMERS.  353 

pointed  in  another  course,  which  it  seemed  to  us  was  the  right 
one.  But  he  persisted  in  asserting  that  he  was  right.  After 
some  further  talk,  for  the  shirt  on  my  back  he  promised  to 
guide  us,  and  placing  a  ragged  skin  on  one  of  our  horses,  he 
mounted  the  animal  and  led  the  way  over  the  next  range  of 
hills.  The  rain  soon  poured  down  so  hard  upon  the  poor  fel- 
low's bare  skin,  that  he  begged  permission  to  return,  to  which 
we  would  not  consent ;  but  out  of  compassion  to  him,  I  took 
off  my  overcoat,  with  which  he  covered  his  swarthy  hide,  and 
seemed  highly  delighted  with  the  shelter  from  the  pitiless 
storm  it  afforded  him,  or  with  the  supposition  that  I  mtended 
to  present  it  to  him. 

Crossing  several  elevated  and  rocky  hills,  just  before  sunset, 
we  had  a  view  of  a  large  timbered  valley  and  a  sheet  of  water, 
the  extent  of  which  we  could  not  compass  with  the  eye,  on 
account  of  the  thickness  of  the  atmosphere.  When  we  came 
in  sisfht  of  the  water,  the  Indian  uttered  various  exclamations 
of  pleasure ;  and  although  I  had  felt  but  little  faith  in  him  as 
a  pilot  from  the  first,  I  began  now  to  think  that  we  were  ap 
proaching  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco.  Descending  into  the 
valley,  we  travelled  along  a  small  stream  two  or  three  miles, 
and  were  continuing  on  in  the  twilight,  when  we  heard  the 
tinkling  of  a  cow-bell  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  stream. 
Certain,  from  this  sound,  that  there  must  be  an  encampment 
near,  I  halted  and  hallooed  at  the  top  of  my  voice.  The  halloo 
called  forth  a  similar  response,  with  an  interrogation  in  Eng- 
lish, "  Who  the  d — 1  are  you — Spaniards  or  Americans  ?" 
"  Americans.''  "  Show  yourself,  then,  d — n  you,  and  let  us 
see  the  color  of  your  hide,"  was  the  answer. 

"  Tell  us  where  we  can  cross  the  stream  and  you  shall  soon 
see  us,"  was  our  reply. 

"  Ride  back  and  follow  the  sound  of  my  voice,  and  be  d — d 
to  you,  and  you  can  cross  the  stream  with  a  deer's  jump." 

Accordingly,  following  the  sound  of  the  voice  of  this  rough 
colloquist,  who  shouted  lepeatedly,  we  rode  back  in  the  dark 
several  hundred  yards,  and  plunging  into  the  stream,  the  chan- 
nel of  which  was  deep,  we  gained  the  other  side,  where  "we 

30* 


354  trappers'  cami 

found  three  men  standing  ready  to  receive  us.  We  soon  dis 
covered  them  to  be  a  party  of  professional  hunters  or  trappers, 
at  the  head  of  which  was  Mr,  Greenwood,  a  famed  mountaineer; 
commonly  known  as  "Old  Greenwood.'  Th;y  invited  us  tc 
their  camp,  situated  across  a  small  opening  in  the  timber  about 
half  a  mile  distant.  Ha\'ing  unsaddled  our  tired  animals  and 
tm-ned  them  loose  to  graze  for  the  night,  we  placed  our  bag- 
gage under  the  cover  of  a  small  tent,  and  taking  our  seats  by 
the  huge  camp-fire,  made  known  as  far  as  was  expedient  our 
business.  We  soon  ascertained  that  we  had  ridden  the  entire 
day  (about  40  miles)  directly  out  of  our  course  to  Nappa  val- 
ley and  Sonoma,  and  that  the  Indian's  information  was  all 
wronsf.  We  were  now  near  the  shore  of  a  larare  lake,  called 
the  Laguna  by  Californians,  some  fifty  or  sixty  miles  in  length, 
which  lake  is  situated  about  sixty  or  seventy  miles  north  of  thf 
Bay  of  San  Francisco ;  consequently,  to-morrow  we  shall  be  com- 
pelled to  retrace  our  steps  and  find  the  trail  that  leads  from 
Barnett's  house  to  Nappa,  which  escaped  us  this  morning.  Wo 
received  such  directions,  however,  from  Mr.  Greenwood,  tha* 
we  could  not  fail  to  find  it. 

We  found  in  the  camp,  much  to  our  gratification  after  a  long 
fast,  an  abundance  of  fat,  grisly  bear-meat,  and  the  most  deli- 
cious and  tender  deer-meat.  The  camp  looked  hke  a  butcher's 
stall.  The  pot  filled  with  bear-flesh  was  boiled  again  and  again, 
and  the  choice  pieces  of  the  tender  venison  were  roasting,  and 
disappearing  with  singular  rapidity  for  a  long  time.  Bread 
there  was  none  of  course.  Such  a  delicacy  is  unknown  to  the 
mountain  trappers,  nor  is  it  much  desired  by  them. 

The  \unting  party  consisted  of  Mr.  Gieenwood,  Mr.  Turner, 
Mr.  Adams,  and  three  sons  of  Mi.  G.,  one  grown,  and  the  other 
two  boys  10  or  12  years  of  age,  half-breed  Indians,  the  mothei 
being  a  Crow.  One  of  these  boys  is  named  "  Governor  Boggs," 
after  ex-governor  Boggs  of  Missouri,  an  old  friend  of  the  fa- 
ther. Mr.  Greenwood,  or  "  Old  Greenwood,"  as  he  is  famil- 
iarly called,  according  to  his  own  statement,  is  83  years  of  age. 
and  has  been  a  mountain  trap{)cr  between  40  and  50  yenrs 
He  lived  among  the  Crow  Itidiaus,  where  he  married  his  infe 


"  OLD  GREENWOOD-'*  856 

between  thirty  and  forty  years.  He  is  about  six  feet  in  height, 
raw-boned  and  spare  in  flesh,  but  muscular,  and  notwithstanding 
his  old  age,  walks  with  all  the  ei-ectness  and  elasticity  of  youth. 
His  dress  was  of  tanned  buckskin,  and  from  its  appearance  one 
would  suppose  its  antiquity  to  be  nearly  equal  to  the  age  of  its 
wearer.  It  had  probably  never  been  off  his  body  since  he  first 
put  it  on.    "  I  am,"  said  he,  "  an  old  man — eighty-three  years — 

it  is  a  long  time  to  live ; — eighty -three  years  last ,    I  have 

seen  all  the  Injun  varmints  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, — have  fout 
them — lived  with  them.  I  have  many  children — I  don't  know 
how  many,  they  are  scattered  ;  but  ray  wife  was  a  Crow.  The 
Crows  are  a  brave  nation, — the  bravest  of  all  the  Injuns ;  they 
fight  like  the  white  man  ;  they  don't  kill  you  in  the  dark  like  the 
Black-foot  varmint,  and  then  take  your  scalp  and  run,  the  cow- 
ardly reptiles.  Eighty-three  years  last ;  and  yet  old  Green- 
wood could  handle  the  rifle  as  well  as  the  best  on  'em,  but  for 
this  infernal  humor  in  my  eyes,  caught  three  years  ago  in  biing 
ing  the  emigrators  over  the  de-sart."  (A  circle  of  scarlet  sur- 
jounded  his  weeping  eyeballs.)  "  I  can't  see  jist  now  as  well  as 
I  did  fifty  years  ago,  but  I  can  always  bring  the  game  or  the 
slinking  and  skulking  Injun.  I  have  jist  come  over  the  mountains 
from  Sweetwater  with  the  emigrators  as  pilot,  living  upon  bacon, 
bread,  milk,  and  sich  like  mushy  stuff.    It  don't  agree  with  me; 

it  never  will  agree  with  a  man  of  my  age,  eighty-three  last ; 

that  is  a  long  time  to  live.  I  thought  I  would  take  a  small  hunt 
to  get  a  little  exarcise  for  my  old  bones,  and  some  good  fresh 
meat.  The  grisly  bear,  fat  deer,  and  poultry,  and  fish — them  are 
such  things  as  a  man  should  eat.  I  came  up  here  where  I  knew 
there  was  plenty.  I  was  here  twenty  years  ago,  before  any  white 
man  see  this  lake  and  the  rich  land  about  it.  It's  filled  with  bisf 
fish.  Thar's  beer-springs  here,  better  than  them  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains ;  thar's  a  mountain  of  solid  biimstone,  and  thar'a 
mines  of  gold  and  silver,  all  of  which  I  know'd  many  years  ago, 
and  I  can  show  them  to  you  if  you  will  go  with  me  in  the 
morning.  These  black-skinned  Spaniards  have  rebel'd  again. 
Wall,  they  can  make  a  fuss,  d — m  'em,  and  have  revolutions 
every  year,  but  they  can't  fight.     It's  no  use  to  go  arter  *em, 


356  MOUNTAIN  SWEARING. 

unless  when  you  ketch  'em  you  kill  'em  They  won't  stand  an 
fight  like  men,  an'  when  they  can't  figl.t  longei'  give  up ;  bul 
the  skared  varmints  run  away  and  then  make  another  fuss,  d — m 
'em  "     Such  was  the  discourse  of  our  host. 

The  camp  consisted  of  two  small  tents,  which  had  probably 
been  obtained  from  the  emigrants.  They  were  pitched  so  as  to 
face  each  other,  and  between  them  there  was  a  large  pile  of 
blazing  logs.  On  the  trees  surrounding  the  canap  were  stretclied 
the  skins  of  various  animals  which  had  been  killed  in  the  hunt ; 
some  preserved  for  their  hides,  others  for  the  fur.  Bear-meat 
and  venison  enough  for  a  winter's  supply  were  hanging  from 
the  limbs.  The  swearins:  of  Turner,  a  man  of  immense  frame 
and  muscular  power,  during  our  evening's  conversation,  was 
almost  terrific.  I  had  heard  mountain  sAvearing  before,  but  his 
went  far  beyond  all  former  examples.  He  could  do  aU  the 
swearing  for  our  army  in  Mexico,  and  then  have  a  surplus. 

The  next  morning,  (Nov.  3d,)  after  partaking  of  a  hearty 
breakfast,  and  suspending  from  our  saddles  a  sufficient  supply 
of  venison  and  bear-meat  for  two  day's  journey,  we  started 
back  on  our  own  trail.  We  left  our  miserable  Indian  pilot  at 
his  ranchena.  I  gave  him  the  shirt  from  my  back,  out  of  com- 
passion for  his  sufferings, — he  well  deserved  a  dressing  of 
another  kind.  It  rained  all  day,  and  when  we  reached  Bar- 
nett's  (the  empty  house)  about  four  o'clock,  p.  m.,  the  black 
masses  of  clouds  which  hung  over  the  valley  portended  a 
storm  so  furious,  that  we  thought  it  prudent  to  take  shelter 
under  a  roof  for  the  night.  Securing  our  animals  in  one  of  the 
enclosures,  we  encamped  in  the  deseited  dwelling.  The  storm 
soon  commenced,  and  raffed  and  roared  with  a  fierceness  and 
strength  rarely  witnessed.  The  hogs  and  pigs  came  squealing 
about  tlie  door  for  admission  ;  and  the  cattle  and  horses  in  the 
valley,  terrified  by  the  violence  of  elemental  battle,  ran  back- 
wards and  forwards,  bellowing  and  snorting.  In  comfortable 
quarters,  we  roasted  and  enjoyed  our  bear-meat  and  venison, 
and  left  the  wind,  rain,  liglitning,  and  thunder  to  play  their 
pranks  as  best  suited  them,  which  they  did  all  night. 

On  the  morning  of  the  fourth,  we  found  the  trail  described  to 


HAPPA    VALLEY WET    LODGINGS.  357 

05  by  Mr.  Greenwood,  and  crossing  a  ridge  of  mountains,  de- 
scended into  the  valley  of  Nappa  creek,  which  empties  into  the 
Bay  of  San  Francisco  just  below  the  straits  of  Carquinez.  This 
is  a  most  beautiful  and  fertile  valley,  and  is  already  occupied  by 
several  American  settlers.  Among  the  first  who  established 
themselves  here  is  Mr.  Yount,  who  soon  after  erected  a  flouring- 
mill  and  saw-mUl.  These  have  been  in  operation  several  years. 
Before  reaching  Mr.  Yount's  settlement  we  passed  a  saw-mill 
more  recently  erected,  by  Dr.  Bale.  There  seems  to  be  an 
abundance  of  pine  and  red-wood  (a  species  of  fir)  in  the  canadds. 
No  lumber  can  be  superior  for  building  purposes  than  that 
sawed  from  the  red-wood.  The  trees  are  of  immense  size, 
straight,  free  from  knots  and  twists,  and  the  wood  is  soft,  and 
easily  cut  with  plane  and  saw.  Arriving  at  the  residence  of 
Dr.  Bale,  in  Nappa  valley,  we  were  hospitably  entertained  by 
him,  with  a  late  breakfast  of  coflFee,  boiled  eggs,  steaks,  and 
tortillas,  served  up  in  American  style.  Leaving  Nappa,  after 
travelling  down  it  some  ten  or  twelve  miles,  we  crossed  anothei 
ranofe  of  hills  or  mountains,  and  reached  Sonoma  after  dark, 
o\ir  clothing  thoroughly  drenched  with  the  rain,  which,  with 
intermissions,  had  fallen  the  whole  day.  I  put  up  at  the  same 
quarters  as  when  here  before.  The  house  was  covered  with  a 
dilapidated  thatch,  and  the  rain  dripped  through  it,  not  leaving 
a  dry  spot  on  the  floor  of  the  room  where  we  slept.  But  ther^ 
was  an  advantage  in  this, — the  inundation  of  water  had  coel 
pletely  discomfited  the  army  of  fleas  that  infested  the  building 
when  we  were  here  before. 

It  rained  incessantly  on  the  fifth.  Col.  Russell  arrived  at 
Sonoma  early  in  the  morning,  having  arrived  from  San  Fran- 
cisco last  night.     Procuring  a  boat  belonging  to  Messrs.  Howard 

6  Melius,  lying  at  the  embarcadero,  I  left  for  San  Francisco, 
but  owing  to  the  storm,  and  contrary  winds,  did  not  arrive  there 
until  the  morning  of  the  seventh,  being  two  nights  and  a  day  in 
the  creek,  and  ckurning  on  the  bay.  Purchasmg  a  quantity  of 
clothing,  and  other  suppUes  for  volunteers,  I  sailed  early  on  the 
morning  of  the  eighth  for  New  Helvetia,  in  a  boat  belonging  to 
tbe  sloop-of-war  Portsmouth,  manned  by  U.  S.  sailors,  under 


358  ARRIVAL  AT  NEW  HELVETIA. 

the  command  of  Midshipman  Byres,  a  native  of  Maysville,  Ky 
We  encamped  that  night  at  the  head  of  "Soeson,"  having 
sailed  about  fifty  miles  in  a  severe  storm  of  wind  and  rain.  The 
Mraves  frequently  dashed  entirely  over  our  httle  craft.  The 
rain  continued  during  the  ninth,  and  we  encamped  at  night 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Sacramento.  On  the  night  of  the  tenth 
we  encamped  at  "  Merritt's  camp,"  the  rain  stUl  falling,  and  the 
river  rising  rapidly,  rendering  navigation  up-stream  impossible, 
except  with  the  aid  of  the  tide.  On  the  night  of  the  eleventli 
we  encamped  fifteen  mUes  below  New  Helvetia,  still  raining. 
On  the  morning  of  the  twelfth  the  clouds  cleared  away,  and  the 
sim  burst  out  warm  and  spring-like.  After  having  been  ex- 
posed to  the  rain  for  ten  or  twelve  days,  without  having  the 
clothing  upon  me  once,  dry,  the  sight  of  the  sun,  and  the  in- 
fluence of  his  beams,  were  cheering  and  most  agreeable.  We 
arrived  at  New  Helvetia  about  twelve  o'clock. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

Leave  New  Helvetia — Pleasant  weather — Meet  Indian  volunteers — Tule- 
boats — Engagement  between  a  party  of  Americans  and  Califomians — • 
Death  of  Capt.  Burroughs  and  Capt.  Foster — Capture  of  Thomas  O.  Lar- 
kin — Reconnaissance — San  Juan  Bautista — Neglect  of  the  dead — Large 
herds  of  cattle — Join  Col.  Fremont. 

On  my  arrival  at  New  Helvetia,  I  found  there  Mr.  Jacob 
Mr,  Reed  had  not  yet  returned  fiom  tlie  mountains.  Nothing 
had  been  heard  from  Mr.  Lippincott,  or  Mr.  Grayson,  since  I  left 
the  latter  at  Sonoma.  An  autliorized  ngont  of  Col.  Fremont  had 
arrived  at  the  foi-t  the  day  that  I  left  it,  with  power  to  take  the 
caballada  of  public  horses,  and  to  enroll  volunteers  for  the  ex- 
pedition to  the  south.  He  had  left  two  or  three  days  before  my 
Arrival,  taking  witli  liim  all  the  horses  and  trappings  suitable  for 
service,  and  all  the  men  who  had  previously  raidezvoused  at  the 
fort,  numbering  about  sixty,  as  T  understood.     At  my  request 


INDIAN  VOLUNTEERS.  359 

messengers  were  seat  by  Mr.  Kern,  commandant  of  the  fort, 
and  by  Captain  Sutter,  to  the  Indian  chiefs  on  the  San  Joaquin 
river  and  its  tributaries,  to  meet  me  at  the  most  convenient 
points  on  the  trail,  witli  such  warriors  of  their  tribes  as  chose  tc 
volunteer  as  soldiers  of  the  United  States,  and  perform  military 
service  during  the  campaign.  I  believed  that  they  would  be 
useful  as  scouts  and  spies.  On  the  14th  and  15th  eight  men 
(emigrants  who  had  just  arrived  in  the  country,  and  had  been 
enrolled  at  Johnson's  settlement  by  Messrs.  Reed  and  Jacob) 
arrived  at  the  fort ;  and  on  the  morning  of  the  16  th,  with  these, 
we  started  to  join  Colonel  Fremont,  supposed  to  be  at  Monte- 
rey ;  and  we  encamped  at  night  on  the  Cos(}umne  river. 

The  weather  is  now  pleasant.  We  are  occasionally  drenched 
with  a  shower  of  rain,  after  which  the  sun  shines  warm  and 
bright ;  the  fresh  grass  is  springing  up,  and  the  birds  sing  and 
chatter  in  the  groves  and  thickets  as  we  pass  through  them.  I 
rode  forward,  on  the  morning  of  the  l7th,  to  the  Michelemes 
river,  (twenty-five  miles  from  the  CosQumne,)  where  I  met 
Antonio,  an  Indian  chief,  with  twelve  warriors,  who  had  assem- 
bled here  for  the  purpose  of  joining  us.  The  names  of  the  wai'- 
riors  were  as  follows  : — Santiago,  Masua,  Kiiibu,  Tocoso,  Nonelo, 
Michael,  Weala,  Arkell,  Nicolas,  Heel,  Kasheano,  Estephen.  Our 
party  coming  up  in  the  afternoon,  we  encamped  here  for  thf 
day,  in  order  to  give  the  Indians  time  to  make  further  prepara- 
tions for  the  march.  On  the  18th  we  met,  at  the  ford  of  the 
San  Joaquin  river,  another  party  of  eighteen  Indians,  inclu- 
ding their  chiefs.  Their  names  were — Jose  Jesus,  Filipe,  Ray- 
raundo,  and  Carlos,  chiefs;  Huligaiio,  Bonefasio,  Francisco, 
Nicolas,  Pablo,  Feliciano,  San  Antonio,  Polinario,  Manuel,  Gra- 
\iano,  Salinordio,  Romero,  and  Merikeeldo,  warriors.  The  chiefs 
and  some  of  the  warriors  of  these  parties  were  partially  clothed, 
but  most  of  them  were  naked,  except  a  small  garment  around 
the  loins.  They  were  armed  with  bows  and  arrows.  We  en- 
camped with  our  sable  companions  on  the  east  b.ink  of  the  San 
Joaquin. 

The  next  morning  (Nov.  19)  the  river  being  too  high  to  ford, 
we  constructed,  by  the  aid  of  the  Indians,  tule-boats,  upon  whkh 


360  A  BATTLE. 

our  baggage  was  ferried  over  the  stream.  The  tule-boat  con- 
sists of  bundles  of  tule  firmly  bound  together  with  willow  withea, 
When  completed,  in  shape  it  is  not  unlike  a  small  keel-boat. 
The  buoyancy  of  one  of  these  craft  is  surprising.  Six  men,  aa 
many  as  could  sit  upon  the  deck,  were  passed  over,  in  the 
largest  of  our  three  boats,  at  a  time.  The  boats  were  towed 
backwards  and  forwards  by  Indian  swimmers — one  at  the  bow 
and  one  at  the  stern  as  steersman,  and  two  on  each  side  as 
propellers.  The  poor  fellows,  when  they  came  out  of  the  cold 
water,  trembled  as  if  attacked  with  an  ague.  We  encamped 
near  the  house  of  Mr.  Livermore,  (previously  described,)  where, . 
after  considerable  difficulty,  I  obtained  sufficient  beef  for  sup- 
per, Mr.  L.  being  absent.  Most  of  the  Indians  did  not  get  intD 
camp  until  a  late  hour  of  the  night,  and  some  of  them  not  until 
morning.  They  complained  very  much  of  sore  feet,  and  wanted 
horses  to  ride,  which  I  promised  them  as  soon  as  they  reached 
the  Pueblo  de  San  Jose. 

About  ten  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  20th,  we  slaughtered 
a  beef  in  the  hills  between  Mr.  Livermore's  and  the  mission  of 
San  Jose ;  and  leaving  the  hungry  party  to  regale  themselves 
upon  it  and  then  follow  on,  I  proceeded  immediately  to  the 
Pueblo  de  San  Jose  to  make  further  arrangements,  reaching  tha+t 
place  just  after  sunset.  On  the  21st  I  procured  clothing  foi 
..he  Indians,  which,  when  they  arrived  with  Mr.  Jacob  in  the 
afternoon,  was  distributed  among  them. 

On  my  arrival  at  the  Pueblo,  I  found  the  American  popula- 
tion there  much  excited  by  intelligence  just  received  of  the  cap- 
ture on  the  15th,  between  Monterey  and  the  mission  of  San 
Juan,  of  Thos.  0.  Larkin,  Esq.,  late  U.  S.  consul  in  California, 
by  a  party  of  Californians,  and  of  an  engagement  between  the 
same  Californians  and  a  party  of  Americans  escorting  a  cahal- 
tada  of  400  horses  to  Colonel  Fremont's  camp  in  Monterey. 
In  this  affair  three  Americans  were  killed,  viz. :  Capt.  Burroughs^ 
Capt.  Foster,  and  Mr.  Earaes,  late  of  St.  Louis,  Mo.  The  mis- 
sion of  San  Juan  lies  on  the  road  between  the  Pueblo  de  San 
Jos6  and  MonttMoy,  about  fifty  miles  from  the  former  place,  and 
thirty  from  the  latter.     The  skirnii.sli  look  place  ten  miles  south 


MR.  larkin's  narrative.  361 

af  San  Juan,  near  the  Monterey  road.  I  extract  the  following 
account  of  this  aflFair  from  a  journal  of  his  captivity  published 
by  Mr.  Larkin : — 

"  On  the  15th  of  November,  from  information  received  of  the 
sickness  of  my  family  in  San  Francisco,  where  they  had  gone  to 
escape  the  expected  revolutionary  troubles  in  Monterey,  and 
from  letters  from  Captain  Montgomery  requesting  my  presence 
respecting  some  stores  for  the  Portsmouth,  I,  with  one  servant, 
left  Monterey  for  San  Francisco,  knowing  that  for  one  month  no 
Californian  forces  had  been  within  100  miles  of  us.  That  night 
I  put  up  at  the  house  of  Don  Joaquin  Gomez,  sending  my  ser- 
vant to  San  Juan,  six  miles  beyond,  to  request  Mr.  J.  Thompson 
to  wait  for  me,  as  he  was  on  the  road  for  San  Francisco.  About 
raidnight  I  was  aroused  from  my  bed  by  the  noise  made  by  ten 
Califoi-nians  (unshaved  and  unwashed  for  months,  being  in  the 
mountains)  rushing  into  my  chamber  with  guns,  swords,  pistols, 
and  torches  in  their  hands.  I  needed  but  a  moment  to  be  fully 
awake  and  know  my  exact  situation ;  the  first  cry  was,  '  Como 
estamos  Senor  Consul.*  '  Vamos  Senor  Larkin.'  At  my  bed- 
side were  several  letters  that  I  had  re-read  before  going  to 
bed.  On  dressing  myself,  while  my  captors  were  saddling  my 
horse,  I  assorted  these  letters,  and  put  them  into  different 
pockets.  After  taking  my  own  time  to  dress  and  arrange  my 
valise,  we  started,  and  rode  to  a  camp  of  seventy  or  eighty  men 
on  the  banks  of  the  Monterey  river ;  there  each  officer  and  prin- 
cipal person  passed  the  time  of  night  with  me,  and  a  remark  or 
two.  The  commandante  took  me  on  one  side,  and  informed  me 
that  his  people  demanded  that  I  should  write  to  San  Juan,  to 
the  American  captain  of  volunteers,  saying  that  I  had  left  Mon- 
terey to  visit  the  distressed  families  of  the  river,  and  request  or 
demand  that  twenty  men  should  meet  me  before  daylight,  that 
I  could  station  them,  before  my  return  to  town,  in  a  manner  to 
protect  these  families.  The  natives,  he  said,  were  determined 
on  the  act  being  accomplished.  I  at  first  endeavored  to  reason 
with  him  on  the  infamy  and  the  impossibility  of  the  deed,  but 
to  no  avail :  he  said  my  life  depended  on  the  letter ;  that  he 
was  willing,  nay,  anxious  to  preserve  my  life  as  an  old  acquaint* 

31 


362  MR.  larkin's  narrative. 

ance,  but  could  not  control  his  people  in  this  aff;iir.  From  a? 
gument  I  came  to  a  refusal :  he  ad\ased,  urged,  and  demanded- 
At  this  period  an  officer  called  out  *  *  *  *  (Come  here, 
those  who  are  named.)  I  then  said,  '  In  this  manner  you  may 
act  and. threaten  night  by  night;  my  life  on  such  condition  is  of 
no  value  or  pleasure  to  me.  I  am  by  accident  your  prisoner — 
make  the  most  of  me — write,  I  will  not :  shoot  as  you  see  fit, 
and  I  am  done  talking  on  the  subject.'  I  left  him,  and  went 
to  the  camp-fire.  For  a  half-hour  or  more  there  was  some 
commotion  around  me,  when  all  disturbance  subsided. 

"At  daylight  we  started,  with  a  flag  flying  and  a  drum 
beating,  and  travelled  eight  or  ten  miles,  when  we  camped  in  a 
low  valley  or  hollow.  There  they  caught  with  the  lasso  three 
or  four  head  of  cattle  belonging  to  the  nearest  rancho,  and 
breakfasted.  The  whole  day  their  outriders  rode  in  everj'  di- 
rection, on  the  look-out,  to  see  if  the  American  company  left 
the  mission  of  San  Juan,  or  Lieutenant- colonel  Fremont  left 
Monterey :  they  also  rode  to  all  the  neighboring  ranches,  and 
forced  the  rancheros  to  join  them.  At  one  o'clock,  they  began 
their  march  with  one  himdred  and  thu-ty  men,  (and  two  or 
three  hundred  extra  horses ;)  they  marched  in  four  single  files, 
occupying  four  positions,  myself  under  charge  of  an  officer  and 
five  or  six  men  in  the  centre.  Their  plan  of  operation  for  the 
night  was,  to  rush  into  San  Juan  ten  or  fifteen  men,  who  were 
to  retreat,  under  the  expectation  that  the  Americans  would 
follow  them,  in  which  case  the  whole  party  outside  was  to  cut 
them  off".  I  was  to  be  retained  in  the  centre  of  the  party. 
Ten  miles  south  of  the  mission,  they  encountered  eight  or  ten 
Americans,  a  part  of  whom  retreated  into  a  low  ground  covered 
with  oaks,  the  others  returned  to  the  house  of  Sefior  Gomez,  to 
alarm  their  companions.  For  over  one  hour  tlie  hundred  and 
thirty  Californians  surrounded  the  six  or  eight  Americans,  oc- 
casionally giving  and  receiving  shots.  During  this  period,  J 
was  several  times  requested,  then  commanded,  to  go  among 
the  oaks  and  bring  out  my  countrymen,  and  offer  them  theu 
lives  n  giving  up  thoir  rifles  and  persons.  1  at  last  offered  to 
go  and  call  them  out,  on  condition  that  they  should  return  tc 


DEATH  OF  BUKROUCnS  AND  FOSTER.  363 

San  Juan  or  go  to  Monterey,  with  their  arms ;  this  being  re- 
fused, I  told  the  commandante  to  go  in  and  bring  them  out 
himself.  While  they  were  consulting  how  this  could  be  done, 
fifty  Americans  came  down  on  them,  which  caused  an  action  of 
about  twenty  or  thirty  minutes.  Thirty  or  forty  of  the  natives 
leaving  the  field  at  the  first  fire,  they  remained  drawn  ofi"  by 
fives  and  tens  until  the  Americans  had  the  field  to  themselves. 
Both  parties  remained  within  a  mile  of  each  other  until  dark. 
Our  countrymen  lost  Captain  Burroughs,  of  St.  Louis,  Missouri, 
Captain  Foster,  and  two  others,  with  two  or  three  wounded. 
The  Californians  lost  two  of  their  countrymen,  and  Jos6  Garcia, 
5f  Val.,  ChiH,  Avith  seven  wounded." 

The  following  additional  particulars  I  extract  from  the 
"  Californian"  newspaper  of  November  21,  1846,  published  at 
Monterey :  "  Burroughs  and  Foster  were  killed  at  the  first  onset. 
The  Americans  fired,  and  then  charged  on  the  enemy  with 
their  empty  rifles,  and  ran  them  off.  However,  they  still 
kept  rallying,  and  firing  now  and  then  a  musket  at  the  Ameri- 
cans, until  about  eleven  o'clock  at  night,  when  one  of  the 
Walla- Walla  Indians  offered  his  services  to  come  into  Mon- 
terey and  give  Colonel  Fremont  notice  of  what  "was  passing 
Soon  after  he  started  he  was  pursued  by  a  party  of  the 
enemy.  The  foremost  in  pursuit  drove  a  lance  at  the  Indian, 
who,  trying  to  parry  it,  received  the  lance  through  his  hand ; 
he  immediately,  with  the  other  hand,  seized  his  tomahawk, 
and  struck  a  blow  at  his  opponent,  which  split  his  head  from 
the  crown  to  the  mouth.  By  this  time  the  others  had  come 
up,  and  with  the  most  extraordinary  dexterity  and  bravery, 
the  Indian  vanquished  two  more ;  and  the  rest  ran  away.  He 
rode  on  towards  this  town  as  far  as  his  horse  was  able  to  carry 
him,  and  then  left  his  horse  and  saddle,  and  came  in  on  foot. 
He  arrived  here  about  eight  o'clock  on  Tuesday  morning,  De- 
cember lYth." 

The  Americans  engaged  in  this  affair  were  principally  the 
vDlunteer  emigrants  just  arrived  in  the  country,  and  who  had 
U;ft  New  Helvetia  a  few  days  in  advance  of  me. 

Colonel    Fremont   marched   from   Monterey  as  soon  as  h« 


364  MISSION  OP  SAN  JUAN. 

heard  of  this  skirmish,  in  pursuit  of  the  Califomians,  but  did 
not  meet  with  them.  He  then  encamped  at  the  mission  of 
San  Juan,  waiting  there  the  amval  of  the  remaining  volunteers 
from  above. 

Leaving  the  Pueblo  on  the  afternoon  of  the  25th,  in  con- 
junction with  a  small  force  commanded  by  Captain  Weber,  we 
made  an  excursion  into  the  hills,  near  a  rancho  owned  by 
Captain  W.,  where  were  herded  some  two  or  three  hundred 
public  horses.  It  had  been  rumored  that  a  party  of  Cah- 
fornians  were  hovering  about  here,  intending  to  capture  and 
drive  off  these  horses.  The  next  day,  (November  26th,)  with- 
out having  met  any  hostile  force,  driving  these  horses  before 
us,  we  encamped  at  Murphy's  rancho.  Mr.  Murphy  is  the 
father  of  a  large  and  respectable  family,  who  emigrated  to  this 
country  some  three  or  four  years  since  from  the  United  States, 
being  originally  from  Canada.  His  daughter,  Miss  Helen,  who 
did  the  honors  of  the  rude  cabin,  in  manners,  conversation,  and 
personal  charms,  woiild  grace  any  di awing- room.  On  the  28th, 
we  proceeded  down  the  Pueblo  valley,  passing  Gilroy's  rancho, 
and  reaching  the  mission  of  San  Juan  just  before  dark.  The 
hills  and  valleys  are  becoming  verdant  with  the  fresh  grass  and 
wild  oats,  the  latter  being,  in  places,  two  or  three  inches  high. 
So  tender  is  it,  however,  that  it  affords  but  little  nourishment 
to  our  horses. 

The  mission  of  San  Juan  Bautista  has  been  one  of  the  most 
extensive  of  these  establishments.  The  principal  buildings  are 
more  durably  constructed  than  those  of  other  missions  I  have 
visited,  and  they  are  in  better  condition.  Square  bricks  are 
used  in  paving  the  corridors  and  the  ground  floors.  During 
the  twilight,  I  strayed  accidentally  through  a  half-opened  gate 
into  a  cemetery,  enclosed  by  a  high  wall  in  the  rear  of  the 
church.  The  spectacle  was  ghastly  enough.  The  exhumed 
skeletons  of  those  who  had  been  deposited  here,  lay  thickly 
Btrewn  around,  showing  but  little  lespect  for  the  sanctity  of  the 
grave  or  the  rights  of  the  dead,  from  the  living.  The  cool, 
damp  night-hreeze  sighed  and  mo;incd  through  the  shrubbery 
And  ruiiioiLs  arches  and   corridors,  planted  and  reiu-ed  by  those 


CALIFORNIA  BATTALION.  365 

whose  neglected  bones  were  now  exposed  to  the  rude  msults 
of  man  and  beast.  I  could  not  but  imagine  that  the  voices  of 
complaining  spirits  mingled  with  these  dismal  and  mournful 
tones ;  and  plucking  a  cluster  of  roses,  the  fragrance  of  which 
was  delicious,  I  left  the  spot,  to  drive  away  the  sadness  and 
melancholy  produced  by  the  scene. 

The  valley  contiguous  to  the  mission  is  extensive,  well  watered 
by  a  large  arroyo,  and  highly  fertile.  The  gardens  and  other 
lands  for  tillage,  are  enclosed  by  willow  hedges.  Elevated 
hills,  or  mountains,  bound  this  valley  on  the  east  and  the  west. 
Large  herds  of  cattle  were  scattered  over  the  valley,  greedily 
cropping  the  fresh  green  herbage,  which  now  carpets  moimtain 
and  plain. 

Colonel  Fremont  marched  from  San  Juan  this  morning,  and 
encamped,  as  we  learned  on  our  arrival,  ten  miles  south.  Pro- 
ceeding up  the  arroyo  on  the  29th,  we  reached  the  camp  of 
Colonel  F.  about  noon.  I  immediately  reported,  and  delivered 
over  to  him  the  men  and  horses  under  my  charge.  The  men 
were  afterwards  organized  mto  a  separate  corps,  of  which  Mr. 
R.  T.  Jacob,  my  travelhng-companion,  was  appointed  the  cap- 
tain by  Colonel  Fremont, 


CHAPTER    XXXI. 

California  battalion — Their  appearance,  and  costume — List  of  the  officers 
— Commence  our  march  to  Los  Angeles — Appearance  of  the  country  in 
the  vicinity  of  San  Juan — Slaughter  of  beeves — Astonishing  consumption 
of  beef  by  the  men — Beautiful  morning — Ice — Salinas  river  and  valley 
— Californian  prisoners — Horses  giving  out  from  fatigue — Mission  of  San 
Miguel — Sheep — Mutton — March  on  foot — More  prisoners  taken — Death 
of  Mr.  Stanley — An  execution — Dark  night — Capture  of  the  mission  oi 
San  Luis  Obispo — Orderly  conduct  and  good  deportment  of  the  Califor- 
nia battalion. 

November  30. — The  battalion  of  mounted  riflemen  imder  the 
command  of  Lieutenant-colonel  Fremont,  numbeis,  rank  and 

81* 


366  CALIFORNIA    BATTALION 

file,  including  Indians  and  servants,  428.  With  tte  exception 
)f  the  exploiing  party,  which  left  the  United  States  with  Colonel 
F.,  they  are  composed  of  volunteers  from  the  American  settlers, 
and  the  emigrants  which  have  arrived  in  the  country  within  a 
few  weeks.  The  latter  have  generally  furnished  their  own  am- 
munition and  other  equipments  for  the  expedition.  Most  of  these 
are  practiced  riflemen,  men  of  undoubted  courage,  and  capable  of 
bearing  any  fatigue  and  privations  endvu-able  by  veteran  ti'oops. 
The  Indians  are  composed  of  a  party  of  Walla-Wallas  from 
Oregon,  and  a  party  of  native  Californians.  Attached  to  the 
battahon  are  two  pieces  of  artillery,  under  the  command  of 
Lieutenant  McLane,  of  the  navy.  In  the  appearance  of  our 
small  army  there  is  presented  but  little  of  "  the  pomp  and  cir- 
cumstance of  glorious  war."  There  are  no  plumes  nodding 
over  brazen  helmets,  nor  coats  of  broadcloth  spangled  with  lace 
and  buttons.  A  broad-brimmed,  low-crowned  hat,  a  shirt  of 
blue  flannel,  or  buckskin,  with  pantaloons  and  moccasins  of  the 
same,  all  generally  much  the  worse  for  wear,  and  smeared  with 
mud  and  dust,  make  up  th.e  costume  of  the  party,  ofiioers  as 
well  as  men.  A  leathern  girdle  surrounds  the  waist,  from  which 
are  suspended  a  bowie  and  a  hunter's  knife,  and  sometimes  a 
brace  of  pistols.  These,  with  the  rifle  and  holster-pistols,  are 
the  arms  canied  by  officers  and  privates.  A  single  bugle  (and 
a  sorry  one  it  is)  composes  the  band.  Many  an  embryo  Napo- 
leon, in  his  own  conceit,  whose  martial  spirit  has  been  excited 
to  flaming  intensity  of  heat  by  the  peacock-plumage  and  gaudy 
trappings  of  our  militia  companies,  when  marching  through  the 
streets  to  the  sound  of  drum,  fife,  and  brass  band,  if  he  could 
have  looked  upon  us,  and  then  consulted  the  state  of  the  mili- 
tary thermometer  within  him,  would  probably  have  discovered 
that  the  mercury  of  his  heroism  had  fallen  several  degrees  below 
aero.     He  migh    jven  have  desired  that  we  should  not  come 

"  Between  the  wind  and  his  nobility." 

War,  stripped  of  its  pageimtry,  possesses  but  few  of  the  attrac- 
tions with  which  poetry  and  painting  have  embellished  it.  Th« 
following  Is  a  list  of  tl"-  officers  : — 


t,IST  OF  OFFICERS.  367 

lAat  of  Officers  composing  the  California  Battalion. 

Lieutenant-colonel  J.  C.  Fremont,  commanding  ;  A.  H.  Gil- 
lespie, major ;  P.  B.  Reading,  paymaster ;  Henry  King,  com- 
missary ;  J.  R.  Snyder,  quartermaster,  since  appointed  a  land- 
sm'veyor  by  Colonel  Mason ;  Wm.  H.  Russell,  ordnance  officer ; 
T.  Talbot,  lieutenant  and  adjutant ;  J.  J.  Myers,  sergeant-major, 
appointed  lieutenant  in  January,  1847. 

Company  A. — Richard  Owens,  captain ;  Wm.  N.  Loker,  1st 
lieutenant,  appointed  adjutant  Feb.  lOtli,  1847 ;  B.  M.  Hud- 
speth, 2d  lieutenant,  appomted  captain  Feb.  1847 ;  Wm.  Find- 
lay,  2d  lieutenant,  appointed  captain  Feb.  1847. 

Company  B. — Henry  Ford,  captain  ;  Andrew  Copeland,  1st 
heutenant. 

Company  C. — Granville  P.  Swift,  captain;  Wm.  Baldridge, 
1st  lieutenant;  Wm.  Hartgrove,  2d  do. 

Company  D. — John  Sears,  captain ;  Wm.  Bradshaw,  1st 
lieutenant. 

Company  E. — John  Grigsby,  captain;  Archibald  Jesse,  1st 
lieutenant. 

Company  F. — L.  W.  Hastings,  captain,  (author  of  a  work  on 
California;)  Wornbough,  1st  lieutenant;  J.  M.  Hudspeth,  2d  do. 

Company  G. — Thompson,  captain ;  Davis,  1st  heutenant ; 
Rock,  2d  do. 

Company  H. — R.  T.  Jacobs,  captain ;  Edwin  Bryant,  1st  lieu- 
tenant, (afterwards  alcalde  at  San  Francisco ;)  Geo.  M.  Lippiu- 
cott,  2d  do.,  of  New  York. 

Artillery  Company. — Louis  McLane,  captain,  (afterwards 
major ;)  John  K.  Wilson,  1st  lieutenant,  appointed  captain  in 
January,  1847 ;  Wm.  Blackbiu-n,  2d  do.,  (now  alcalde  of  Santa 
Cruz.) 

Officers  on  detached  service  and  doing  duty  at  the  South. 

S.  Hensley,  captain ;  S.  Gibson,  do.,  (lanced  through  the  body 
at  San  Pascual ;)  Miguel  Pedrorena,  do.,  Spaniard,  (appointed 
by  Stockton  ;)  Stgo.  Arguello,  do.,  Californian,  (appointed  by 
io. ;)  Bell,  do.,  (appointed  by  do.,)  old  resident  of  California, 
Jjos  Angeles ;)   H.  Rhenshaw,  1st  lieutenant,   (appointed  bv 


368  RAIN MUD. 

do. ;)  A.  Godey,  do.,  (appointed  by  do  ;)  Jas.  Barton,  do.,  (ap- 
pointed by  do. ;)  L.  Arguello,  do.,  Califomian,  (appointed  by  do.) 

After  a  march  of  six  or  eight  hours,  up  the  valley  of  the 
arroyo,  through  a  heavy  rain,  and  mud  so  deep  that  several  of 
our  horses  gave  out  from  exhaustion,  we  encamped  in  a  circidar 
bottom,  near  a  deserted  adobe  house.  A  caballada  of  some  500 
or  600  loose  horses  and  mules  is  driven  along  with  us,  but  many 
of  them  are  miserable,  sore-backed  skeletons,  having  been  ex- 
hausted with  hard  usage  and  bad  fare  during  the  summer 
campaign.  Besides  these,  we  have  a  large  number  of  pack- 
mules,  upon  which  all  our  baggage  and  provisions  are  trans- 
ported.    Distance  10  miles. 

We  did  not  move  on  the  1st  and  2d  of  December.  There 
being  no  cattle  in  the  vicinity  of  our  camp,  a  party  was  sent 
back  to  the  mission,  on  the  morning  of  the  1st,  who  in  the  af 
ternoon  returned,  driving  before  them  about  100  head,  most  of 
them  in  good  condition.  After  a  -  sufficient  number  were 
slaughtered  to  supply  the  camp  with  meat  for  the  day,  the  re- 
mainder were  confined  in  a  corral  prepared  for  the  purpose,  te 
be  driven  along  with  us,  and  slaughtered  from  day  to  day. 
Tlie  rain  has  continued,  with  short  intermissions,  since  we  com- 
menced our  march  on  the  30th  of  November.  The  ground  has 
become  saturated  with  water,  and  the  small  branches  are 
swollen  into  large  streams.  Notwithstanding  these  discomforts, 
ihc  men  are  in  good  spirits,  and  enjoy  themselves  in  singing, 
telling  stories,  and  playing  monte. 

December  .3. — Tbe  rain  ceased  falling  about  8  o'clock  this 
morning  ;  and  the  clouds  breaking  away,  the  sun  cheered  us 
once  mere  with  his  pleasant  beams.  The  battalion  was  formed 
into  a  hollow  square,  and  the  order  of  the  day  being  read,  we 
resumed  our  march.  Our  progress,  through  the  deep  mud, 
was  very  slow.  The  horses  were  constantly  giving  out,  and 
many  were  left  behind.  The  young  and  tender  grass  upon 
which  they  feed  JifTords  but  little  nourishment,  and  liard  labor 
Boon  exhausts  them.  We  encamped  on  a  low  bluff,  near  thf 
(xtroyo,  timbered  with  evergreen  oak.     Distance  eight  miles. 


BXTRAORDINAKY   C(^N:?UMPTION  OF  BEEF.  369 

December  4. — I  was  ordered  with  a  small  party  in  advance 
this  morning.  Proceeding  up  the  valley  a  few  miles,  we  left 
it,  crossing  several  steep  hills  sparsely  timbered  with  oak,  frou' 
which  we  descended  into  another  small  valley,  down  which  we 
continued  to  the  point  of  its  termination,  near  some  narrow  and 
difficult  mountain  gorges.  In  exploring  the  gorges,  we  discov- 
ered the  trail  of  a  party  of  Californians,  which  had  passed 
south  several  days  before  lis,  and  found  a  horse  which  they  had 
left  in  their  march.  This,  doubtless,  was  a  portion  of  the  party 
which  captured  Mr.  Larkin,  and  had  the  engagement  between 
Monterey  and  St.  Juan,  on  the  iVth  ult.  The  main  body 
coming  up,  we  encamped  at  3  o'clock.  The  old  grass  around 
our  camp  is  abundant ;  but  haiing  been  so  much  washed  by 
the  rains,  and  consequently  exhausted  of  its  nutritious  qualities, 
the  animals  refuse  to  eat  it.  The  country  over  which  we  have 
travelled  to-day,  and  as  far  as  I  can  see,  is  mountainous  and 
broken,  little  of  it  being  adapted  to  other  agricultural  pur- 
poses than  grazing. 

Thirteen  beeves  are  slavightered  every  afternoon  for  the  con 
sumption  of  the  battalion.  These  beeves  are  generally  of  good 
size,  and  in  fair  condition.  Other  provisions  being  entirely 
exhausted,  beef  constitutes  the  only  subsistence  for  the  men, 
and  most  of  the  officers.  Under  these  circumstances,  the  con- 
sumption of  beef  is  astonishing.  I  do  not  know  that  I  shall 
be  believed  when  I  state  a  fact,  derived  from  ob:.ervation  and 
calculation,  that  the  average  consumption  per  man  of  fresh  beei 
is  at  least  ten  pounds  per  day.  Many  of  them,  I  believe,  con- 
sume much  more,  and  some  of  them  less.  Nor  does  this  quan- 
tity appear  to  be  injurious  to  health,  or  fully  to  satisfy  the 
appetite.  I  have  seen  some  of  the  men  roast  their  meat  and 
devour  it  by  the  fire  from  the  hour  of  encamping  until  late  bed- 
time. They  would  then  sleep  until  one  or  two  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  when  the  cravings  of  hunger  being  greater  than  the 
desire  for  repose,  the  same  occupation  would  be  resumed  and 
continued  until  the  order  was  given  to  march.  The  Californian 
beef  is  generally  fat,  juicy,  and  tender,  and  surpasses  in  flavor 
any  which  I  ever  tasted  elsewhere.     Distance  10  miles. 


370  FROST SNOW-— SALINAS   RIVER. 

December  5. — I  rose  before  daylight.  The  moon  shone 
brightly.  The  temperature  was  cold.  The  vapor  in  the  at- 
mosphere had  congealed  and  fallen  upon  the  ground  in  feather}' 
flakes,  covering  it  with  a  white  semi-transparent  veil,  or  crystal 
sheen,  sparkling  in  the  moonbeams.  The  smoke  from  the  nu- 
merous camp-fires  soon  began  to  ciu-1  languidly  up  in  graceful 
wreaths,  settling  upon  the  mountain  summits.  The  scene  was 
one  for  the  pencil  and  brush  of  the  artist ;  but  when  the  envi- 
ous sun  rose,  he  soon  stripped  Madam  Earth  of  her  gauzy, 
holiday  morning-gown,  and  exposed  her  every-day  petticoat  of 
mud. 

Om-  march  to-day  has  been  one  of  great  difficulty,  through  a 
deep,  brushy  mountain  gorge,  through  which  it  was  almost 
impossible  to  force  the  field-pieces.  In  one  place  they  were 
lowered  with  ropes  down  a  steep  and  nearly  perpendicular  pre- 
cipice of  great  height  and  depth.  We  encamped  about  3 
o'clock,  p.  M.,  in  a  small  valley.  Many  of  the  horses  gave  out 
on  the  march,  and  were  left  behind  by  the  men,  who  came 
straggling  into  camp  until  a  late  hour  of  the  evening,  bringing 
their  saddles  and  baggage  upon  their  shoulders.  I  noticed, 
while  crossing  an  elevated  ridge  of  hills,  flakes  of  snow  flying 
in  the  air,  but  melting  before  they  reached  the  ground.  The 
small  spring-bi'anch  on  which  we  encamped,  empties  into  the 
Salinas  river.  The  country  surrounding  us  is  elevated  and 
broken,  and  the  soil  sandy,  with  but  little  timber  or  grass  upon 
it.     Distance  12  miles. 

December  6. — Morning  'clear  and  cool.  Crossed  an  imdula* 
ting  country,  destitute  of  timber  and  water,  and  encamped  in 
•a  circular  valley  surrounded  by  elevated  hills,  through  which 
flows  a  small  tributary  of  the  Salinas.  The  summits  of  the 
mountains  in  sight  are  covered  with  snow,  but  the  temperature 
in  the  valleys  is  pleasant      Distance  15  miles. 

December  7. — Ice,  the  first  I  have  seen  since  entering  Cali- 
fornia, formed  in  the  branch  of  the  thickness  of  window-glass. 
We  reached  the  valley  of  the  Salinas  about  11  o'clock,  a.  m., 
and  encamped  for  ths  day.  The  river  Salinas  (laid  down  in 
some  maps  as  Rio  San  Buenaventura)  rises  in  the  mountaina 


MISSION  OF  SAN  MIGUEL  371 

to  the  south,  and  has  a  course  of  some  sixty  or  eighty  miles, 
emptying  into  the  Pacific  about  twelve  miles  north  of  Monte- 
rey. The  valley,  as  it  approaches  the  ocean,  is  broad  and  fer> 
tile,  and  there  are  many  fine  ranchos  upon  it.  But  higher  up, 
the  stream  becomes  dry  in  the  summer,  and  the  soil  of  the 
valley  is  arid  and  sandy.  The  width  of  the  stream  at  this 
point  is  about  thirty  yards.  Its  banks  are  skirted  by  naiTow 
belts  of  small  timber.  A  range  of  elevated  mountains  rises 
between  this  valley  and  the  coast.  A  court-martial  was  held 
to-day,  for  the  trial  of  sundry  offenders.     Distance  8  miles. 

Dec.  8. — Morning  cool,  clear,  and  pleasant.  Two  Califor- 
nians  were  arrested  by  the  rear-guard  near  a  deserted  rancho, 
and  brought  into  camp.  One  of  them  turned  out  to  be  a  per- 
son known  to  be  friendly  to  the  Americans.  There  has  been 
but  little  variation  in  the  soil  or  scenery.  But  few  attempts 
appear  to  have  been  made  to  settle  this  portion  of  California. 
The  thefts  and  hostilities  of  the  Tular  Indians,  are  said  to 
be  one  of  the  causes  preventing  its  settlement.  Distance  15 
miles. 

Dec.  9. — The  mornings  are  cool,  but  the  middle  of  the  days 
are  too  warm  to  ride  comfortably  with  our  coats  on.  Our 
march  has  been  fatiguing  and  difficult,  through  several  brushy 
ravines  and  over  steep  and  elevated  hills.  Many  horses  gave 
out  as  usual,  and  were  left,  from  inability  to  travel.  Our  ca- 
hallada  is  diminishing  rapidly.     Distance  10  miles. 

Dec.  10. — Our  march  has  been  on  the  main  beaten  trail,  dry 
and  hard  and  over  a  comparatively  level  country.  We  passed 
the  mission  of  San  Miguel  about  3  o'clock,  and  encamped  in  a 
grove  of  large  oak  timber  three  or  four  miles  south  of  it.  This 
mission  is  situated  on  the  upper  waters  of  the  Salinas,  in  an 
extensive  plain.  Under  the  administration  of  the  /^at/j-es  it  was  a 
wealthy  establishment,  and  manufactures  of  various  kinds  were 
carried  on.  They  raised  immense  numbers  of  sheep,  the  fleeces 
of  which  were  manufactured  by  the  Indians  into  blankets  and 
joarse  cloths.  Their  granaries  were  filled  with  an  abundance 
of  maize  and  frijoles,  and  their  store-rooms  with  other  neces- 
saries of  life  from  the  ranchos  belonging  on  the  mission  lands 


S72  SHEEP AN  ARREST. 

in  the  vicinity.  Now  all  the  buildings,  except  the  church  and 
the  principal  range  of  houses  contiguous,  have  fallen  into  ruins. 
and  an  Englishman,  his  wife  and  one  small  child,  with  two  or 
three  Indian  servants,  are  the  sole  inhabitants.  The  church  is 
the  largest  I  have  seen  in  the  country,  and  its  interior  is  in  good 
repair,  although  it  has  not  probably  been  used  for  the  purpose 
of  worship  for  many  years.  The  Englishman  professes  to 
have  purchased  tlie  mission  and  all  the  lands  belonging  to  it 
for  S300 ! 

Our  stock  of  cattle  being  exhausted,  we  feasted  on  Calif or- 
nian  mutton,  sheep  being  more  abundant  than  cattle  at  this 
mission.  The  wool,  I  noticed,  was  coarse,  but  the  mutton  was 
of  an  excellent  quality.  The  country  over  which  we  have  trav- 
elled to-day,  shows  the  marks  of  long  drought  previous  to  the 
recent  rains.  The  soil  is  sandy  and  gravelly,  and  the  dead 
vegetation  upon  it  is  thin  and  stunted.  About  eighty  of  our 
horses  are  reported  to  have  given  out  and  been  left  behind. 
Distance  20  mUes. 

Dec.  12. — To  relieve  our  horses,  which  are  constantly  giving 
out  from  exiiaustion,  the  grass  being  insufficient  for  their  sus- 
tenance while  performing  labor,  the  entire  battalion,  officers  and 
men,  were  rrdered  to  march  on  foot,  turning  their  horses,  witli 
the  saddles  and  bridles  upon  them,  into  the  general  caballada 
to  be  driven  along  by  the  horse-guard.  The  day  has  been 
drizzly,  cold,  and  disagreeable,  Tjie  coimtry  has  a  barren  and 
naked  appearance,  but  this,  I  believe,  is  attributable  to  the  ex- 
treme drought  that  has  prevailed  in  this  region  for  one  or  U\q 
j'ears  past.  We  encamped  near  the  rancho  of  a  friendly  Cali- 
fornian, — the  man  who  was  taken  prisoner  tlie  other  day  and 
set  at  large.  An  Indian,  said  to  be  the  servant  of  Tortoria 
Pico,  was  captured  here  by  the  advance  party.  A  letter  was 
found  upon  liim,  but  its  contents  I  never  learned.  This  be- 
ing the  6rst  foot-march,  there  were,  of  course,  many  galled 
snd  blistered  feet  in  the  battalion.  My  servant  obtained,  with 
some  diflicidty,  from  the  Indians  at  the  ranclio,  a  pint  cup 
oi  2n^u)le,  or  parched  corn-meal,  and  a  quart  or  two  of  wheat, 
whicli    being    boiled,    furnished    some    variety   in   our  viands 


I 


FUHBRAL  OF  MR.  STANLEY — EXECUTION.      373 

at  supper,  fresh  beef  having  been  our  only  subsistence  since 
the  commencement  of  the  march  from  San  Juan.  Distance 
12  miles. 

Dec.  13. — A  rainy  disagreeable  morning.  Mr.  Stanley,  one 
of  the  volunteers,  and  one  of  the  gentlemen  who  so  kindly  sup- 
plied us  with  provisions  on  Mary's  river,  died  last  night.  He 
has  been  suffering  from  an  attack  of  typhoid  fever  since  the 
commencement  of  our  march,  and  unable  most  of  the  time  to 
sit  upon  his  horse.  He  was  buried  this  morning  in  a  small  cir- 
cular opening  in  the  timber  near  our  camp.  The  battalion  was 
formed  in  a  hollow  square  surrounding  the  grave  which  had 
been  excavated  for  the  final  resting-place  of  our  deceased  friend 
and  comrade.     There  was  neither  bier,  nor  coffin,  nor  pall — 

"  Not  a  drum  was  heard,  nor  a  funeral  note." 

The  cold  earth  was  heaped  upon  his  mortal  remains  in  silent 
solemnity,  and  the  ashes  of  a  braver  or  a  better  man  will  never 
repose  in  the  lonely  hills  of  California. 

After  the  funeral  the  battalion  was  marched  a  short  distance 
to  witness  another  scene,  not  more  mournful,  but  more  harrow- 
ing than  the  last.  The  Indian  captured  at  the  rancho  yester- 
day was  condemned  to  die.  He  was  brought  from  his  place  of 
confinement  and  tied  to  a  tree.  Here  he  stood  some  fifteen  or 
twenty  minutes,  until  the  Indians  from  a  neighboring  ranclieria 
could  be  brought  to  witness  the  execution.  A  file  of  soldiers 
were  then  ordered  to  fire  upon  him.  He  fell  upon  his  knees, 
and  remained  in  that  position  several  minutes  without  uttering 
a  groan,  and  then  sank  upon  the  earth.  No  human  being  could 
have  met  his  fate  with  more  composure,  or  with  stronger  mani- 
festations of  courage.  It  was  a  scene  such  as  I  desire  nevei 
to  witness  again. 

A  cold  rain  fell  upon  us  during  the  entire  day's  march.  We 
encamped  at  four  o'clock,  p.  m.,  but  the  rain  poured  down  in 
such  torrents  that  it  was  impossible  to  light  our  camp-fires  and 
keep  them  burning.  This  continued  nearly  the  whole  night, 
and  I  have  rarely  passed  a  night  more  imcomfortably.  A 
acouting  party  brought  in  two  additional  prisoners  this  evenir;g. 

32 


474  CAPTURE  OF  SAN  LUIS  OBISPO. 

Another  returned,  and  reported  the  capture  of  a  number  of  horses, 
and  the  destruction  of  a  rancho  by  fire.     Distance  12  miles. 

December  14. — ^The  battalion  commenced  its  march  on  foot 
and  in  a  heavy  rain.  The  mud  is  very  deep,  and  we  have  been 
compelled  to  wade  several  streams  of  considerable  depth,  being 
swollen  by  the  recent  rains.  At  one  o'clock  a  halt  was  ordered, 
and  beef  slaughtered  and  cooked  for  dinner.  The  march  was 
resumed  late  in  the  afternoon,  and  the  plain  surrounding  the 
mission  of  San  Luis  Obispo  was  reached  in  the  pitchy  darkness 
of  the  night,  a  family  in  the  caiiada  ha^ing  been  taken  prisoners 
by  the  advance  party  to  prevent  them  gi\ing  the  alarm.  The 
battalion  was  so  disposed  as  to  surround  the  mission  and  take 
prisoners  all  contained  within  it.  The  place  was  entered  in 
great  confusion,  on  account  of  the  darkness,  about  nine  o'clock. 
There  was  no  military  force  at  the  mission,  and  the  few  uihab- 
itants  were  greatly  alarmed,  as  may  well  be  supposed,  by  this 
sudden  invasion.  They  made  no  resistance,  and  were  all  taken 
prisoners  except  one  or  two,  who  managed  to  escape  and  fled  in 
great  terror,  no  one  knew  where  or  how.  It  being  ascertained 
that  Tortoria  Pico,  a  man  who  has  figured  conspicuously  in  mosi 
of  the  Californian  revolutions,  was  in  the  neighborhood,  a  part}- 
was  dispatched  immediately  to  the  place,  and  he  was  brought 
in  a  prisoner.  The  night  was  rainy  and  boisterous,  and  the 
soldiers  were  quartered  to  the  best  advantage  in  the  miserable 
mud  houses,  and  no  acts  of  violence  or  outrage  of  any  kind 
were  committed. 

The  men  composing  the  California  battalion,  as  I  have  before 
stated,  liave  been  drawn  from  many  sources,  and  are  roughly 
clad,  and  weather-beaten  in  their  exterior  appearance  ;  but  I 
feel  it  but  justice  liere  to  state  my  belief,  that  no  military  party 
ever  passed  through  an  enemy's  .country  and  observed  the  same 
strict  regard  for  the  rights  of  'ts  population.  I  never  heard 
of  an  outrage,  or  even  a  trespass  being  committed  by  one  of  the 
American  volunteers  during  our  entire  march.  Every  American 
appeared  to  understand  perfectly  the  duty  which  he  owed  to 
himself  and  otliers  in  this  respect,  and  the  deportment  of  the  bat- 
Alien  might  be  cited  as  a  model  for  imitation.    Distance  18  miles 


MISSION  OF  SAN  LUIS  OBISPO  37& 


CHAPTER    XXXII. 

i\wmendous  rain — Mission  of  San  Luis  Obispo — Gardens — Various  fruits — 
Farm — Cactus  Tuna — Caliuche — Pumpkins — Trial  of  Tortoria  Pico — 
Procession  of  women — Pico's  pardon — Leave  San  Luis — Surf  of  the  Pa- 
cific— Captain  Dana — Tempestuous  night — Mission  of  St.  Ynes — Effects 
of  drought — Horses  exhausted — St.  Ynes  mountain — View  of  the  plain 
of  Santa  Barbara  and  the  Pacific — A  wretched  Christmas-day — Descent 
of  St.  Ynes  mountain — Terrible  storm — Frightful  destruction  of  horses — 
Dark  night — What  we  are  fighting  for — Arrive  at  Santa  Barbara — Town 
deserted. 

December  15. — The  rain  fell  in  cataracts  the  entire  day.  The 
small  streams  which  flow  from  the  mountains  through,  and 
water  the  valley  of,  San  Luis  Obispo,  are  swollen  by  the  deluge 
of  water  from  the  clouds  into  foaming  unfordable  torrents.  In 
order  not  to  trespass  upon  the  population  at  the  mission,  in  their 
miserable  abodes  of  mud,  the  church  was  opened,  and  a  large 
nimiber  of  the  soldiers  were  quartered  in  it.  A  guard,  how- 
ever, was  set  day  and  night,  over  the  chancel  and  all  other 
property  contained  in  the  building,  to  prevent  its  being  injured 
or  disturbed.  The  decorations  of  the  church  are  much  the 
same  as  I  have  before  described.  The  edifice  is  large,  and  the 
interior  in  good  repair.  The  floor  is  paved  with  square  bricks. 
I  noticed  a  common  hand-organ  in  the  church,  which  played 
the  airs  we  usually  hear  from  organ-grinders  in  the  street. 

Besides  the  main  larare  buildinffs  connected  with  the  churcli, 
there  are  standing,  and  partially  occupied,  several  small  squares 
of  adobe  houses,  belonging  to  this  mission.  The  heaps  of  mud 
and  crumbling  walls  outside  of  these,  are  evidence  that  the 
place  was  once  of  much  greater  extent,  and  probably  one  of 
the  most  opulent  and  prosperous  establishments  of  the  kind  in 
the  country.  The  lands  surrounding  the  mission  are  finely  situ- 
ated for  cultivation  and  irrigation  if  necessary.  Tliere  are  sev- 
eral  large   gardens,  enclosed  by  high  and  substantial  walls, 


376      TROPICAL  FRUITS — FEMALE  PROCESSION. 

which  now  contain  a  great  variety  of  fruit-trees  and  shrubbery. 
I  noticed  the  orange,  fig,  palm,  oUve,  and  grape.  There  are 
also  large  enclosxu-es  hedged  in  by  the  prickly-pear,  (cactus,) 
which  grows  to  an  enormous  size,  and  makes  an  impervious  bar- 
rier against  man  or  beast.  The  stalks  of  some  of  these  plants 
are  of  the  thickness  of  a  man's  body,  and  grow  to  the  height 
of  fifteen  feet.  A  juicy  fruit  is  produced  by  the  prickly-pear, 
named  tuna,  from  which  a  beverage  is  sometimes  made  called 
calinche.  It  has  a  pleasant  flavor,  as  has  also  the  fruit,  which, 
when  ripe,  is  blood-red.  A  small  quantity  of  pounded  wheat 
was  found  here,  which,  being  purchased,  was  served  out  to  the 
troops,  about  a  pound  to  the  man.  Frijoles  and  pumpkins  were 
also  obtained,  delicacies  of  no  common  order. 

December  16. — A  court-martial  was  convened  this  morning 
or  the  trial  of  Pico,  the  principal  prisoner,  on  the  charge,  I 
mdcrstood,  of  the  forfeiture  of  his  parole  which  had  been  taken 
'n  a  former  occasion.  The  sentence  of  the  court  was,  that  he 
hould  be  shot  or  hung,  I  do  not  know  which.  A  rumor  is 
'♦urrent  among  the  population  here,  that  there  has  been  an  en- 
'(agement  between  a  party  of  Americans  and  Californians,  near 
Lios  Angeles,  in  which  the  former  were  defeated  with  the  loss 
')f  thirty  men  killed. 

December  17. — Cool,  with  a  hazy  sky.  While  standing  in 
jne  of  the  corridors  this  morning,  a  procession  of  females  passed 
by  me,  headed  by  a  lady  of  fine  appearance  and  dressed  with 
remarkable  taste  and  neatness,  compared  with  those  who  fol- 
lowed her.  Their  rebosos  concealed  the  faces  of  most  of  them, 
except  the  leader,  whose  beautiful  features,  I  dare  say,  she 
t  nought  (and  justly)  required  no  concealment.  They  proceeded 
to  the  quarters  of  Colonel  Fremont,  and  their  object,  I  under- 
stood, was  to  petition  for  the  reprieve  or  pardon  of  Pico,  who 
had  been  condemned  to  death  by  the  court-martial  yesterday, 
and  whose  execution  was  expected  to  take  place  this  morning. 
Their  intercession  was  successful,  as  no  execution  took  place, 
and  in  a  short  lime  all  the  prisoners  were  discharged,  and  the 
order  to  saddle  up  and  march  given.  We  resumed  our  march 
at  ten  o'clock,  and  encamped  just  before  sunset  in  a  small  but 


CAPTAIN    DANA.  ST7 

picturesque  and  fertile  valley  timbered  with  oak,  so  near  the 
coast  that  the  roar  of  the  surf  breaking  agaiast  the  shore  could 
be  heard  distinctly.     Distance  1  miles. 

December  18. — Clear,  with  a  dehghtful  temperatuie.  Before 
the  sun  rose  the  grass  was  covered  with  a  white  frost.  The 
day  throughout  has  been  calm  and  beautiful.  A  march  of 
four  miles  brought  us  to  the  shore  of  a  small  indentation  in  the 
coast  of  the  Pacific,  where  vessels  can  anchor,  and  boats  can 
land  when  the  wind  is  not  too  fresh.  The  surf  is  now  rolling 
and  foaming  with  prodigious  energy — breaking  upon  the  beach 
in  long  lines  one  behind  the  other,  and  striking  the  shore  hke 
cataracts.  The  hills  and  plains  are  verdant  with  a  carpet  of 
fresh  grass,  and  the  scattered  live-oaks  on  all  sides  appearing 
like  orchards  of  fruit-trees,  give  to  the  country  an  old  and  cul- 
tivated aspect.  The  mountains  bench  away  on  our  left,  the  low 
hills  rising  in  gentle  conical  forms,  beyond  which  are  the  more 
elevated  and  precipitous  peaks  covered  with  snow.  We  en- 
camped about  three  o'clock  near  the  rancho  of  Captain  Dana,  in 
a  large  and  handsome  valley  well  watered  by  an  arroyo. 

Captain  Dana  is  a  native  of  Massachusetts,  and  has  resided  in 
this  country  about  thirty  years.  He  is  known  and  esteemed 
throughout  California  for  his  intelligence  and  private  virtues, 
and  his  imbounded  generosity  and  hospitality.  I  purchased 
_ere  a  few  loaves  of  wheat  bread,  and  distributed  them  among  the 
men  belonging  to  our  company  as  far  as  they  would  go,  a  luxury 
which  they  have  not  indulged  in  since  the  commencement  of 
the  march.     Distance  15  miles. 

December  19. — The  night  was  cold  and  tempestuous,  with 
a  slight  fall  of  rain.  The  clouds  broke  away  after  sunrise,  and 
the  day  became  warm  and  pleasant.  We  continued  our  march 
up  the  valley  and  encamped  near  its  head.  The  table-land  and 
hills  are  generally  gravelly,  but  appear  to  be  productive  of  fine 
grass.  The  soil  of  the  bottom  is  of  the  richest  and  most  pro- 
ductive composition.  We  crossed  in  the  course  of  the  day  a 
vride  flat  plain,  upon  which  were  grazing  large  herds  of  brood- 
mares {manadas)  and  cattle.  In  the  distance  they  resembled 
large  armies  approachmg  us.     The  peaks  of  the  elevated  moun- 

32* 


878  EFFECTS  OF  DROUGHT. 

tains  ki  sight  are  covered  with  snow.  A  large  number  of  horsea 
gave  out,  strayed,  and  were  left  behind  to-day,  estimated  at 
one  hundred.  The  men  came  into  camp  bringing  their  saddles 
on  their  backs,  and  some  of  them  arriving  late  in  the  evening. 
Distance  18  miles. 

December  20. — Parties  were  sent  back  this  morning  to 
gather  up  horses  and  baggage  left  on  the  march  yesterday, 
and  it  was  one  o'clock  before  the  rear-guard,  waiting  for  the 
return  of  those,  left  camp.  The  main  body  made  a  short  march 
and  encamped  early,  in  a  small  hollow  near  the  rancho  of  Mr. 
Faxon,  through  which  flows  an  arroyo,  the  surrounding  hUls 
being  timbered  with  evergreen  oaks.  The  men  amused  them- 
selves during  the  afternoon  in  target-shooting.  Many  of  the 
battalion  are  fine  marksmen  with  the  rifle,  and  the  average 
of  shots  could  not  easily  be  surpassed.  The  camp  spread  over 
an  undulating  surface  of  half  a  mile  in  diameter,  and  at  night, 
when  the  fires  were  lighted,  illuminating  the  grove,  with  its 
drapery  of  drooping  Spanish  moss,  it  presented  a  most  pictu- 
resque appearance.     Distance  3  miles. 

December  21. — Clear  and  pleasant.  A  foot-march  was 
ordered,  with  the  exception  of  the  horse  and  baggage  guard. 
We  marched  several  miles  through  a  winding  hollow,  passing  a 
deserted  rancho,  and  ascending  with  much  labor  a  steep  ridge 
of  hills,  descending  which  we  entered  a  handsome  valley,  and 
•  ncamped  upon  a  small  stream  about  four  miles  from  the 
•Taission  of  St.  Ynes.  The  banks  of  the  arroyo  are  strewn  with 
lead  and  prostrate  timber,  the  trees,  large  and  small,  having 
>een  overtlirown  by  tornadoes.  The  plain  has  sufi'ered,  hke 
Quch  of  the  country  we  have  passed  through,  by  a  long-con- 
inued  drought,  but  the  composition  of  the  soil  is  such  as  indi- 
;ates  fertility,  and  from  the  eftects  of  the  late  rains  the  grass  is 
ipringing  up  with  great  luxuriance,  from  places  which  before 
were  entirely  denuded  of  vegetation.  A  party  was  sent  from 
tamp  to  inspect  the  mission,  but  returned  without  making  any 
anportant  discoveries.  Our  horses  are  so  weak  that  many  of 
them  are  unable  to  carry  their  saddles,  and  were  left  on  the 
road  u8  usual.     A  man  had  his  leg  broken  on  the  march  to* 


PLAIN  OF  SANTA  BARBARA.  379 

day,  by  the  kick  of  a  mule.  He  was  sent  back  to  the  rancho 
of  Mr.  Faxon.     Distance  15  miles. 

December  22. — Clear  and  pleasant.  Being  of  the  party 
which  performed  rear-guard  duty  to-day,  with  orders  to  bring 
in  all  stragglers,  we  did  not  leave  camp  imtil  several  hours 
after  the  main  body  had  left.  The  horses  of  the  caballada 
and  the  pack-animals  were  continually  giving  out  and  refusing 
to  proceed.  Parties  of  men,  exhausted,  lay  down  upon  the 
groimd,  and  it  was  with  much  uiging,  and  sometimes  with 
peremptory  commands  only,  that  they  could  be  prevailed  upon 
to  proceed.  The  country  bears  the  same  marks  of  drought 
Iveretofore  described,  but  fresh  vegetation  is  now  springing  up 
and  appears  vigorous.  A  large  horse-trail  leading  into  one  of 
Ihe  canadas  of  the  mountains  on  ovr  left,  was  discovered  by  the 
I'.couts,  and  a  party  was  dispatched  to  trace  it.  We  passed  one 
deserted  rancho,  and  reached  camp  between  nine  and  ten 
o'clock  at  night,  having  forced  in  all  the  men  and  most  of 
the  horses  and  pack-mules.     Distance  15  miles. 

December  23. — Raiuifell  steadily  and  heavily  the  entire  day. 
A  small  party  of  men  was  in  advance.  Discovering  in  a 
brushy  valley  two  Indians  armed  with  bows  and  arrows, 
they  were  taken  prisoners.  Learning  from  them  that  there 
was  a  caballada  of  horses  secreted  in  one  of  the  canadas,  they 
continued  on  about  ten  miles,  and  found  about  twenty-five 
fresh,  fat  horses,  belonging  to  a  Californian  now  among  the 
insurgents  below.  They  were  taken  and  delivered  at  the  camp 
near  the  eastern  base  of  the  St.  Ynes  mountain.  Passed  this 
morning  a  rancho  inhabited  by  a  foreigner,  an  Englishman. 

December  24. — Cloudy  and  cool,  mth  an  occasional  sprink- 
ling rain.  Our  route  to-day  lay  directly  over  the  St.  Ynes 
mountain,  by  an  elevated  and  most  difficult  pass.  The  height 
jf  this  moxmtain  is  several  thousand  feet.  We  reached  the 
summit  about  twelve  o'clock,  and  our  company  composing  the 
advance-guard,  we  encamped  about  a  mUe  and  a  half  in  ad- 
vance of  the  main  body  of  the  battalion,  at  a  point  which  over- 
looks the  beautiful  plain  of  Santa  Barbara,  of  which,  and  the 
>cean  beyond,  we  had  a  most  extended  and  interesting  view. 


380        CHEERLESS  CHRISTMAS. — ST.  YNES  MOUNTAIN. 

With  the  spyglass,  we  could  see  in  the  plain  far  below  us,  herd? 
3f  cattle  quietly  grazing  upon  the  green  herbage  that  carpets 
[ts  gentle  undulations.  The  plain  is  dotted  Avith  groves,  sur 
rounding  the  springs  and  beltmg  the  small  water-com-ses,  of 
which  there  are  many  flowing  from  this  range  of  mountains, 
Ranchos  are  scattered  far  up  and  down  the  plain,  but  not  one 
human  being  could  be  seen  stirring.  About  ten  or  twelve  miles 
to  the  south,  the  white  towers  of  the  mission  of  Santa  Barbara 
raise  themselves.  Beyond,  is  the  illimitable  waste  of  waters. 
A  more  lovely  and  picturesque  landscape  I  never  beheld.  On 
the  summit  of  the  movmtain,  and  surroimding  us,  there  is  a 
growth  of  hawthorn,  manzanita,  (in  bloom,)  and  other  small 
shrubbery.  The  rock  is  soft  sandstone  and  conglomerate,  im- 
mense masses  of  which,  piled  one  upon  another,  form  a  wall 
along  the  western  brow  of  the  mountain,  through  which  there 
is  a  single  pass  or  gateway  about  eight  or  ten  feet  in  width 
The  descent  on  the  western  side  is  precipitous,  and  appears 
almost  impassable.     Distance  4  miles. 

December  25. — Christmas-day,  and  a  memorable  one  to  me. 
Owing  to  the  difficulty  in  hauling  the  cannon  up  the  steep  ac- 
chvities  of  the  mountain,  the  main  body  of  the  battalion  did 
not  come  up  with  us  until  twelve  o'clock,  and  before  we  com- 
menced the  descent  of  the  mountain  a  furious  storm  commenced, 
raging  with  a  violence  rarely  surpassed.  The  rain  fell  in  torrents 
and  the  wind  blew  almost  with  the  force  of  a  tornado.  This 
fierce  stiife  of  the  elements  continued  without  abatement  the 
entire  afternoon,  and  until  two  o'clock  at  night.  Driving  our 
horses  before  us  we  were  compelled  to  slide  down  the  steep 
and  slippery  rocks,  or  Avade  through  deep  gullies  and  ravines 
filled  with  raud  and  foaming  torrents  of  water,  that  rushed 
downwards  with  such  force  as  to  carry  along  the  loose  rocks 
and  tear  up  the  trees  and  shrubbery  by  the  roots.  Many  of 
the  horses  falling  into  the  ravines  refused  to  make  an  effort  to 
extricate  themselves,  and  were  swept  downwards  and  drowned. 
Others,  bewildered  by  the  fierceness  and  terrors  of  the  storm, 
rushed  or  fell  hcjidlong  over  the  steep  precipices  and  were 
lulled.     Others  obstinately  refused   to  proceed,  but  stood  qua- 


DARK  AND  STORMY  NIGHT.  881 

king  with  fear  or  shivering  with  cold,  and  many  of  these  per- 
ished in  the  night  from  the  severity  of  the  storm.  The  advance 
party  did  not  reach  the  foot  of  the  mountain  and  find  a  place 
to  encamp  until  night — and  a  night  of  more  impenetrable  and 
terrific  darkness  I  never  witnessed.  The  ground  upon  which 
our  camp  was  made,  although  sloping  from  the  hills  to  a  small 
stream,  was  so  saturated  with  water  that  men  as  well  as  horses 
sunk  deep  at  every  step.  The  rain  fell  in  such  quantities  that 
fires  with  great  difficulty  could  be  hpjhted,  and  most  of  them 
were  immediately  extinguished. 

The  officers  and  men  belonging  to  the  company  having  the 
cannon  in  charge,  labored  imtil  nine  or  ten  o'clock  to  bring 
them  down  the  mountain,  but  they  were  finally  compelled  to 
leave  them.  Much  of  the  baggage  also  remained  on  the  side 
of  the  mountain,  with  the  pack-mules  and  horses  conveying 
them  ;  all  efforts  to  force  the  animals  down  being  fruitless 
The  men  continued  to  straggle  into  the  camp  until  a  late  hour 
of  the  night ; — some  crept  under  the  shelving  rocks  and  did 
not  come  in  until  the  next  morning.  We  were  so  fortunate  au 
to  find  our  tent,  and  after  much  difficulty  pitched  it  under  an 
oak-tree.  All  efforts  to  light  a  fire  and  keep  it  blazing  pro\T.ng 
abortive,  we  spread  our  blankets  upon  the  ground  and  endeav- 
ored to  sleep,  although  we  could  feel  the  cold  streams  of  water 
running  through  the  tent  and  between  and  around  our  bodies. 

In  this  condition  we  remained  until  about  two  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  when  the  storm  having  abated  I  rose,  and  shaking 
from  my  garments  the  dripping  water,  after  many  unsuccessful 
efibrts  succeeded  in  kindling  a  fire.  Near  our  tent  I  found  three 
soldiers  who  had  reached  camp  at  a  late  hour.  They  were  fast 
asleep  on  the  ground,  the  water  around  them  being  two  or  three 
inches  deep  ;  but  they  had  taken  care  to  keep  their  heads 
above  water  by  using  a  log  of  wood  for  a  pillow.  The  fire 
beginning  to  blaze  freely,  I  dug  a  ditch  with  my  hands  and  a 
sharp  stick  of  wood,  which  drained  ofi"  the  pool  surrounding  the 
tent.  One  of  the  men,  when  he  felt  the  sensation  consequent 
upon  being  "  high  and  dry,"  roused  himself,  and  sitting  upright, 
looked  aroimd  for  some  time  with  an  expression  of  bewildered 


382  DESTRUCTION  OF  HORSES. 

amazement.  At  length  he  seemed  to  realize  the  true  state  o» 
the  case,  and  exclauned  in  a  tone  of  energetic  soliloquy : 

"  Well,  who  wouldn't  be  a  soldier  and  fight  for  California  ?" 

"  You  ai'e  mistaken,"  I  rephed. 

Rubbing  his  eyes  he  gazed  at  me  with  astonishment,  as  if 
having  been  entirely  unconscious  of  my  presence  ;  but  reassuring 
himself  he  said : 

"  How  mistaken  ?" 

"  Why,"  I  answered,  "  you  are  not  fighting  for  California." 

"  What  the  d — 1  then  am  I  fighting  for  ?"  he  inquired. 

"  For  Texas." 

"  Texas  be  d — d  ;  but  hurrah  for  General  Jackson !"  and 
with  this  exclamation  he  threw  himself  back  again  upon  his 
wooden  pillow,  and  was  soon  snoring  in  a  profound  slumber. 

Making  a  platform  composed  of  sticks  of  wood  upon  the  soft 
mud,  I  stripped  myself  to  the  skin,  wringing  the  water  from 
each  garment  as  I  proceeded.  I  then  commenced  drying 
them  by  the  fire  in  the  order  that  they  were  replaced  upon  my 
body,  an  employment  that  occupied  me  until  daylight,  which 
sign,  above  the  high  mountain  to  the  east,  down  which  we  had 
rolled  rather  than  marched  yesterday,  I  was  truly  rejoiced  to 
see.     Distance  3  miles. 

Dec.  26. — Parties  were  detailed  early  this  morning,  and  dis- 
patched up  the  mountain  to  bring  down  the  cannon,  and  collect 
the  hving  horses  and  baggage.  The  destruction  of  horse-flesh, 
by  those  who  witnessed  the  scene,  by  daylight,  is  described  as 
frightful.  In  some  places  large  numbers  of  dead  horses  were 
piled  together.  In  others,  horses  half  buried  in  the  mud  of  the 
ni vines,  or  among  the  rocks,  were  gasping  in  the  agonies  of 
death.  The  number  of  dead  animals  is  variously  estimated  at 
"rom  seventy-five  to  one  hundred  and  fifty,  by  different  persons. 
iTie  cannon,  most  of  the  missing  baggage,  and  the  living  horses, 
were  all  brought  in  by  noon.  The  day  was  busily  employed  in 
cleansing  our  rifles  and  pistols,  and  drying  our  drenched  bag- 

Dec.  27. — Preparations  were  commenced  early  for  the  resimip- 
tioo  of  our  march ;  but  such  was  the  condition  of  every  thing  around 


ARRIVE  AT  SANTA  BARBARA.  383 

US,  that  it  was  two  o'clock,  p.  m.,  before  the  battalion  was  in 
readiness ;  and  then  so  great  had  been  the  loss  of  horses  in 
various  ways,  that  the  number  remaining  was  insuflficient  to 
mount  the  men.  One  or  two  companies,  and  portions  of  others, 
were  compelled  to  march  on  foot.  We  were  \'isited  dm-ing  the 
forenoon  by  Mr.  Sparks,  an  American,  Dr.  Den,  an  Irishman, 
and  Mr.  Burton,  another  American,  residents  of  Santa  Barbara. 
They  had  been  suffered  by  the  CaUfornians  to  remain  in  th* 
place.  Their  information  communicated  to  us  was,  that  the 
town  was  deserted  of  nearly  all  its  population.  A  few  houses 
only  were  occupied.  Passing  down  a  beautiful  and  fertile 
imdulating  plain,  we  encamped  just  before  sunset  in  a  Uve-oak 
grove,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  town  of  Santa  Barbara. 
Strict  orders  were  issued  by  Col.  Fremont,  that  the  property 
and  the  persons  of  CaUfornians,  not  foimd  in  arms,  should  be 
sacredly  respected.  To  prevent  all  collisions,  no  soldier  was 
allowed  to  pass  the  lines  of'the  camp  without  special  permission, 
or  orders  from  his  officers. 

I  visited  the  town  before  dark ;  but  found  the  houses,  with 
few  exceptions,  closed,  and  the  streets  deserted.  After  hunting 
about  some  time  we  discovered  a  miserable  dwelling,  occupied 
by  a  shoemaker  and  his  family,  open.  Entering  it  we  were  very 
kindly  received  by  its  occupants,  who,  with  a  princely  supply 
of  ci\ality,  possessed  but  a  beggarly  array  of  comforts.  At  our 
request  they  provided  for  us  a  supper  of  tortillas,  frijoles,  and 
stewed  came,  seasoned  with  chile  Colorado,  for  which,  paying 
them  dos  pesos  for  four,  we  bade  them  good-evening,  all  parties 
being  well  satisfied.  The  family  consisted,  exclusive  of  the 
shoemaker,  of  a  dozen  women  and  children,  of  all  ages.  The 
women,  from  the  accounts  they  had  received  of  the  intentions 
of  the  Americans,  were  evidently  unprepared  for  ci^il  treatment 
from  them.  They. expected  to  be  dealt  with  in  a  veiy  barba- 
rous manner,  in  all  respects ;  but  they  were  disappohited,  and 
lavited  iis  to  visit  them  again.     Distance  eight  miles. 


384  TOWN  OF  Si^NTA  BA&BA&A. 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

Santa  Barbara — Pictureeque  situation — Fertility  of  the  country — Climate- 
Population — Society — Leave  Santa  Barbara — Rincon — Grampus — Mis- 
sion of  St.  Buenaventura — Fine  sjardens — Meet  a  party  of  mounted  Cali- 
fornians — They  retreat  before  us — Abundance  of  maize — Arrival  of 
couriers  from  Com.  Stockton — Effects  of  war  upon  the  country — More 
of  the  enemy  in  sight — News  of  the  capture  of  Los  Angeles,  by  Gen. 
Kearnj'  and  Com.  Stockton — Mission  of  San  Fernando — The  Maguey — 
Capitulation  of  the  Californians — Arrive  at  Los  Angeles — Genera!  re- 
flections upon  the  march — Meet  with  old  acquaintances. 

The  battalion  remained  encamped  at  Santa  Barbara,  from  the 
2Vtli  of  December  to  the  3d  of  January,  1847.  The  U.  S.  flag 
was  raised  in  the  public  square  of  the  town  the  day  after  otu 
arrival. 

The  town  of  Santa  Barbara  is  beautifully  situated  for  the 
picturesque,  about  one  mile  from  the  shore  of  a  roadstead,  which 
affords  anchorage  for  vessels  of  any  size,  and  a  landing  foi 
boats,  in  calm  weather.  During  stormy  weather,  or  the  preva- 
lence of  strong  winds  from  the  southeast,  vessels,  for  safety,  are 
compelled  to  stand  out  to  sea.  A  fertile  plain  extends  som" 
twenty  or  thirty  miles  up  and  down  the  coast,  varying  in  breadtli 
from  two  to  ten  miles,  and  bounded  on  the  east  by  a  range  of 
high  mountains.  Tlie  population  of  the  town,  I  should  judge 
from  the  number  of  houses,  to  be  about  1200  souls.  Most  of 
the  houses  are  constructed  of  adobes,  in  the  usual  architectural 
style  of  Mexican  buildings.  Some  of  them,  however,  are  more 
Americanized,  and  have  some  pretensions  to  tasteful  architecture, 
and  comfortable  and  convenient  interior  arrangement.  Its  com- 
merce, I  presume,  is  limited  to  the  export  of  hides  and  tallow 
produced  upon  the  surrounding  plain ;  and  the  commodilics 
received  in  exchange  for  tliese  from  the  traders  on  the  coiiiri. 
D  Uibtless,  new  and  yet  undeveloped  sources  of  wealth  will  b( 
discovered  hereafter,  tliat  will  render  this  town  of  much  greatc 
importaDcc  than  it  is  at  present. 


MINERALS CLIMATE.  385 

On  the  coast,  a  few  miles  above  Santa  Barbara,  tbore  are,  I 
have  been  told,  immense  quantities  of  pure  bitumen  oi-  mineral 
tar,  which,  rising  in  the  ocean,  has  been  thrown  upon  'A'C  shore 
by  the  waves,  where  in  a  concrete  state,  like  rosin,  it  has  accu- 
mulated in  inexhaustible  masses.  There  are,  doubtless,  many 
valuable  minerals  in  the  neighboring  mountains,  which,  when 
developed  by  enterprise,  will  add  greatly  to  the  wealth  and  im- 
portance of  the  town.  For  intelligence,  refinement,  and  civiliza- 
tion, the  population,  it  is  said,  will  compare  advantageously 
with  any  in  California.  Some  old  and  influential  Spanish  fami- 
lies are  residents  of  this  place  ;  but  their  casas,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  that  of  Senor  Don  Jose  Noriega,  the  largest  house 
in  the  place,  are  now  closed  and  deserted.  Senor  N.  is  one  ol 
the  oldest  and  most  respectable  citizens  of  California,  having 
filled  the  highest  ofiices  in  the  government  of  the  country. 
One  of  his  daughters  is  a  resident  of  New  York,  having  married 
Alfred  Robinson,  Esq.,  of  that  city,  author  of  "  Life  in  Cali- 
fornia." 

The  climate,  judging  frorn  the  indications  while  we  remained 
here,  must  be  delightful,  even  in  winter.  With  the  exception 
of  one  day  which  was  tempestuous,  the  temperature  at  nigh  I 
did  not  fall  below  50°,  and  during  the  day  the  average  was 
between  60°  and  70°.  The  atmosphere  was  perfectly  clear 
and  serene,  the  weather  resembling  that  of  the  pleasant  days 
of  April  in  the  same  latitude  on  the  Atlantic  side  of  the  conti- 
nent. It  is  a  peculiarity  of  the  Mexicans  that  they  allow  no 
shade  or  ornamental  trees  to  grow  near  their  houses.  In  none 
of  the  streets  of  the  towns  or  missions  through  which  I  have 
passed,  has  there  been  a  solitary  tree  standing.  I  noticed  very 
few  horticultural  attempts  in  Santa  Barbara.  At  the  mission, 
about  two  miles  distant,  which  is  an  extensive  establishment  and 
in  good  preservation,  I  was  told  that  there  were  fine  gardens, 
producing  most  of  the  varieties  of  fruits  of  the  tropical  and  tem- 
perate climates. 

Several  Califomians  came  into  camp  and  oflfered  to  deliver 
themselves  up.  They  were  permitted  to  go  at  large.  They 
represented  that  the  Californian  force  at  the  south  was  dailf 

83 


386  "the  raNcoN" — fight  expected. 

growing  weaker  from  dissensions  and  desertions.  The  United 
States  prize-schooner  Julia,  arrived  on  the  30th,  from  which 
was  landed  a  cannon  for  the  use  of  the  battalion.  It  has, 
however,  to  be  mounted  on  wheels,  and  the  gear  necessary  for 
hauling  it  has  to  be  made  in  the  camp.  Reports  were  current 
in  camp  on  the  31st,  that  the  Calif ornians  intended  to  meet  and 
fight  us  at  San  Buenaventura,  about  thirty  miles  distant.  On 
the  1st  of  January,  the  Indians  of  the  mission  and  town  cele- 
brated new-year's  day,  by  a  procession,  music,  etc.  etc.  They 
marched  from  the  mission  to  the  town,  and  through  most  of 
the  empty  and  otherwise  silent  streets.  Among  the  airs  they 
played  was  "  Yankee  Doodle." 

January  3. — A  beautiful  spring-like  day.  We  resumed  our 
march  at  11  o'clock,  and  encamped  in  a  live-oak  grove  about 
ten  miles  south  of  Santa  Barbara.  Our  route  has  been  gener- 
ally near  the  shore  of  the  ocean.  Timber  is  abundant,  and 
the  grass  and  other  vegetation  luxuriant.     Distance  10  miles. 

January  4. — At  the  "  Rincon,"  or  passage  between  two 
points  of  land  jutting  into  the  ocean,  so  narrow  that  at  high 
tides  the  surf  dashes  against  the  nearly  perpendicular  bases  of 
the  mountains  which  bound  the  shore,  it  has  been  supposed  the 
hostile  Californians  would  make  a  stand,  the  position  being  so 
advantaffeous  to  them.  The  road,  if  road  it  can  be  called,  where 
all  marks  of  hoofs  or  wheels  are  erased  by  each  succeeding 
tide,  nms  along  a  hard  sand-beach,  with  occasional  projections 
of  small  points  of  level  ground,  ten  or  fifteen  miles,  and  the 
surf,  even  when  the  tide  has  fallen  considerably,  frequently 
reaches  to  the  bellies  of  the  horses.  Some  demonstration  has 
been  confidently  expected  here,  but  we  encamped  in  this  pass 
the  first  day  without  meeting  an  enemy  or  seeing  a  sign  of  one. 
Our  camp  is  close  to  the  ocean,  and  the  roar  of  the  surf,  as  it 
dashes  against  the  shore,  is  like  that  of  an  immense  cataract 
Hundreds  of  i  "  grampus  whale  are  sporting  a  mile  or  two  dis- 
iant  from  the  land,  spouting  up  water  and  spray  to  a  gic 
height,  in  columns  lesembling  steam  from  the  escape-pipes  of 
■teamboats.     Distance  0  miles. 

Jan.  5. — The  prize-schooner  Julia  was  ly^Tig  oflf  in  sight  liili 


NO  FIGHT COLD  LODGINOS.  887 

morning,  for  the  purpose  of  co-operating  with  us,  should  there  he 
any  attempt  on  the  part  of  the  enemy  to  interrupt  the  march  oi 
the  battalion.  We  reached  the  mission  of  San  Buenaventura,  and 
encamped  a  short  distance  from  it  at  two  o'clock.  ,  Soon  after, 
a  small  party  of  Californians  exhibited  themselves  on  an  eleva- 
tion just  beyond  the  mission.  The  battalion  was  immediately 
called  to  arms,  and  marched  out  to  meet  them.  But  after  the 
discharge  of  the  two  field-pieces,  they  scampered  away  like  a 
flock  of  antelopes,  and  the  battalion  returned  to  camp,  with 
none  killed  or  wounded  on  either  side.  Under  the  behef  that 
there  was  a  larger  force  of  Californians  encamped  at  a  distance 
of  some  five  or  six  miles,  and  that  during  the  night  they  might 
attempt  a  surprise,  or  plant  cannon  on  the  summit  of  a  hill 
about  a  mile  from  camp,  so  as  to  annoy  us,  a  party,  of  which  I 
was  one,  was  detached  after  dark  to  occupy  the  hill  secretly. 
We  marched  around  the  mission  as  privately  as  possible,  and 
took  our  position  on  the  hill,  where  we  remained  all  night 
without  the  least  disturbance,  except  by  the  tempestuous  wind, 
which  blew  a  blast  so  cold  and  piercing  as  almost  to  congeal 
the  blood.  When  the  sun  rose  in  the  morning,  I  could  see  far 
out  in  the  ocean,  three  vessels  scudding  before  the  gale  like 
phantom-ships.  One  of  these  was  the  little  schooner  that  had 
been  waiting  upon  us  while  marching  along  the  "  Rmcon."  Dis- 
tance 14  miles. 

Jan.  6. — The  wind  has  blown  a  gale  in  our  faces  all  day,  and 
the  clouds  of  dust  have  been  almost  blinding.  The  mission  of 
San  Buenaventura  does  not  differ,  in  its  general  features,  from 
those  of  other  establishments  of  the  same  kind  heretofore  de- 
scribed. There  is  a  large  garden,  enclosed  by  a  high  wall,  at- 
tached to  the  mission,  in  which  I  noticed  a  great  variet}  of  fruit- 
trees  and  ornamental  shrubbery.  Tliere  are  also  numerous 
enclosures,  for  cultivation,  bv  wiUow  hedges.  The  soil,  when 
properly  tilled,  appears  to  be  highly  productive.  This  mission 
is  situated  about  two  miles  from  the  shore  of  a  small  bay  or  in- 
dentation of  the  coast,  on  the  edge  of  a  plain  or  valley  watered  b\ 
the  Rio  Santa  Clara,  which  empties  into  the  Pacific  at  this  point 
A  chain  of  small  islands,  from  ten  to  twenty  xoiles  from  t]»« 


888  HOSTILE  CALIFORNIANS 

shore,  commences  at  Santa  Barbara,  and  extends  south  along  the 
coast  to  the  bay  of  San  Pedro.  These  islands  present  to  the 
eye  a  barren  appearance.  At  present  the  only  inhabitants  of 
the  mission  are  a  few  Indians,  the  white  population  having 
abandoned  it  on  our  approach,  with  the  exception  of  one 
man,  who  met  us  yesterday  and  surrendered  himself  a  pris- 
oner. 

Proceeding  up  the  valley  about  seven  miles  from  the  mission, 
we  discovered  at  a  distance  a  party  of  sixty  or  seventy  mount- 
ed Californians,  drawn  up  in  order  on  the  bank  of  the  river. 
This,  it  was  conjectured,  might  be  only  a  portion  of  a  much 
larger  force  stationed  here,  and  concealed  in  a  deep  ravine  which 
runs  across  the  valley,  or  in  the  canadas  of  the  hills  on  our  left. 
Scouting-parties  mounted  the  hilLs,  for  the  purpose  of  ascertain- 
ing if  such  was  the  case.  In  the  mean  time,  the  party  of  Cali- 
fornians on  our  right  scattered  themselves  over  the  plain,  pran- 
cing their  horses,  waving  their  swords,  banners,  and  lances,  and 
performing  a  great  .  variety  of  equestrian  feats.  They  were 
mounted  on  fine  horses,  and  there  are  no  better  horsemen,  if 
as  good,  in  the  world,  than  Californians.  They  took  special 
care,  however,  to  keep  beyond  the  reach  of  cannon-shot.  The 
battalion  wheeled  to  the  left  for  the  purpose  of  crossing  a  point 
of  hills  jutting  into  the  plain,  and  taking  the  supposed  concealed 
party  of  the  enemy  on  their  flank.  It  was,  however,  found  im- 
practicable to  cross  the  hills  with  the  cannon  ;  and  returning  to 
the  plain,  the  march  was  continued,  the  Californians  still  pran- 
cing and  performing  their  antics  in  our  faces.  Our  horses  were 
so  poor  and  feeble  that  it  was  impossible  to  chase  them  with 
any  hope  of  success.  As  we  proceeded  they  retreated.  Some 
of  the  Indian  scouts,  among  whom  were  a  Delaware  named 
Tom,  who  distinguished  himself  in  the  engagement  near  San 
Juan,  and  a  Californian  Indian  named  Gregorio,  rode  towards 
them  ;  and  two  or  three  guns  were  discharged  on  both  sides,  but 
without  any  damage,  the  parties  not  being  within  dangerous 
gun-shot  distance  of  each  other.  The  Californians  then  formed 
themselves  in  a  body,  and  soon  disappeared  behind  some  hills 
on  our  right     We  encamped  about  four  o'clock  in  the  valley/ 


COURIKR  FROM   LOS  ANGELES.  389 

the  mnd  blowing  almost  a  hurricane,  and  the  dust  flying  so  af 
nearly  to  blind  us.     Distance  9  miles. 

Jan.  1. — Continuing  our  march  up  the  valley,  we  encamped 
near  the  rancho  of  Carrillo,  where  we  found  an  abundance  of 
corn,  wheat,  and  frijoles.  The  house  was  shut  up,  having  been 
deserted  by  its  proprietor,  who  is  said  to  be  connected  with  the 
rebellion.  Californian  scouts  were  seen  occasionally  to-day  on 
the  summits  of  the  hills  south  of  us.     Distance  7  miles. 

Jan.  8. — Another  tempestuous  day.  I  do  not  remember  ever 
to  have  experienced  such  disagreeable  eflfects  from  the  wind 
and  the  clouds  of  dust  in  which  we  were  constantly  enveloped, 
driving  into  our  faces  without  intermission.  We  encamped  this 
afternoon  in  a  grove  of  willows  near  a  rancho,  where,  as  yester- 
day, we  found  corn  and  beans  in  abundance.  Our  horses,  con- 
sequently, fare  well,  and  we  fare  better  than  we  have  done 
One-  fourth  of  the  battalion,  exclusive  of  the  regular  guard,  i) 
kept  under  arras  during  the  night,  to  be  prepared  against  sur 
prises  and  night-attacks.     Distance  12  miles. 

January  9. — Early  this  morning  Captain  Hamley,  accompa 
nied  by  a  Californian  as  a  guide,  came  into  camp,  with  dispatche- 
from  Commodore  Stockton.  The  exact  purport  of  these  dis- 
patches I  never  learned,  but  it  was  understood  that  the  commo- 
dore, in  conjunction  with  General  Kearny,  was  marching  upon 
Los  Angeles,  and  that  if  they  had  not  already  reached  and  taken 
that  town,  (the  present  capital  of  California,)  they  were  by  this 
oime  in  its  neighborhood.  Captain  Hamley  passed,  last  night, 
the  encampment  of  a  party  of  Californians  in  our  rear.  He 
landed  from  a  vessel  at  Santa  Barbara,  and  from  thence  followed 
us  to  this  place  by  land.  We  encamped  this  afternoon  at  a 
rancho,  situated  on  the  edge  of  a  fertile  and  finely- watered  plain 
of  considerable  extent,  where  we  found  com,  wheat,  and  frijoles 
in  great  abundar  ce.  The  rancho  was  owned  and  occupied  by 
an  aged  Californian,  of  commanding  and  respectable  appearance. 
I  could  not  but  feel  compassion  for  the  venerable  old  man,  whose 
sons  were  now  all  absent  and  engaged  in  the  war,  while  he,  at  home 
and  unsupported,  was  suffering  the  unavoidable  inconveni^ncee 
and  calamities  resulting  from  an  army  being  quartered  upon  him. 

33* 


390  PASS  OF  SAN  FERNANDO — MORE  NEWS. 

As  we  march  south  there  appears  to  be  a  larger  supply  ol 
wheat,  maize,  beans,  and  barley,  in  the  granaries  of  the  ranchos. 
More  attention  is  evidently  given  to  the  cultivation  of  the  soil 
here  than  farther  north,  although  neither  the  soil  nor  climate 
is  so  well  adapted  to  the  raising  of  crops.  The  Califomian 
spies  have  shown  themselves  at  various  times  to-day,  on  the 
summits  of  the  hills  on  our  right.     Distance  12  mQes. 

January  10. — Crossing  the  plain  we  encamped,  about  two 
o'clock,  p.  M.,  in  the  mouth  of  a  canada,  through  which  we 
ascend  over  a  difficult  pass  in  a  range  of  elevated  lulls  between 
us  and  the  plain  of  San  Fernando,  or  Couenga.  Some  forty  or 
fifty  mounted  Californians  exhibited  themselves  on  the  summit 
of  the  pass  during  the  afternoon.  They  were  doubtless  a  por- 
tion of  the  same  party  that  Ave  met  several  days  ago,  just  below 
San  Buenaventura.  A  large  number  of  cattle  were  collected  ir. 
the  plain  and  corralled,  to  be  driven  along  to-morrow  for  sub- 
sistence.    Distance  10  miles. 

January  11. — The  battahon  this  morning  was  divided  into 
two  parties :  the  main  body,  on  foot,  marching  over  a  ridge 
of  hills  to  the  right  of  the  read  or  trail ;  and  the  artillery,  horses, 
and  baggage,  with  an  advance-guard  and  escort,  marching  by 
the  direct  route.  We  found  the  pass  narrow,  and  easily  to  be 
defended  by  brave  and  determined  men  against  a  greatly  supe- 
rior force ;  but  when  we  had  mounted  the  summit  of  the  ridge 
there  was  no  enemy,  nor  the  sign  of  one,  in  sight.  Descending 
into  a  Canada  on  \'he  other  side,  we  lialted  imtil  the  main  body 
came  up  to  us,  and  then  the  whole  force  was  again  reimited, 
and  the  march  continued. 

Emerging  from  the  hills,  the  advance  party,  to  which  I  was 
attached,  met  two  Californians,  bareheaded,  riding  in  great 
haste.  They  stated  that  they  were  from  the  mission  of  San 
Fernando;  that  the  Californian  forces  had  met  the  American 
forces  under  the  command  of  General  Kearny  and  Commodore 
Stockton,  and  liad  been  defeated  after  two  days'  fighting ;  and 
that  the  Americana  had  yesterday  marched  into  Los  Angeles. 
They  requested  to  be  conducted  immediately  to  Colonel  Fre- 
mont, which  request  was  complied  with.     A  little  farther  on  w« 


MISSION  OF  SAN  FERNANDO.  391 

K^'t  a  Frenchman,  who  stated  that  he  was  the  hearer  of  a  lettei 
from  General  Kearny,  at  Los  Angeles,  to  Colonel  Fremont. 
He  confirmed  the  statement  Ave  had  just  heard,  and  was  per- 
mitted to  pass.  Continuing  our  march,  we  entered  the  mission 
of  San  Fernando  at  one  o'clock,  and  in  about  two  hours  the 
main  body  arrived,  and  the  whole  battalion  encamped  in  the 
mission  buildings. 

The  buildings  and  gardens  belonging  to  this  mission  are  in 
better  condition  than  those  of  any  of  these  establishments  I  have 
seen.  There  are  two  extensive  gardens,  surrounded  by  high 
walls  ;  and  a  stroll  through  them  afforded  a  most  delightful 
contrast  from  the  usually  uncultivated  landscape  we  have  been 
travelling  through  for  so  long  a  time.  Here  were  brought  to- 
gether most  of  the  fruits  and  many  of  the  plants  of  the  temperate 
and  tropical  climates.  Although  not  the  season  of  flowers,  stili 
the  roses  were  in  bloom.  Oranges,  lemons,  figs,  and  olives  hung 
upon  the  trees,  and  the  blood-red  tuna,  or  prickly-pear,  looked 
very  tempting.  Among  the  plants  I  noticed  the  American  aloe, 
{argave  Americana,)  which  is  otherwise  called  maguey.  From 
this  plant,  when  it  attains  maturity,  a  saccharine  liquor  is  ex- 
tracted, which  is  manufactured  into  a  beverage  called  pulque, 
and  is  much  prized  by  Mexicans.  The  season  of  grapes  has 
passed,  but  there  are  extensive  Aineyards  at  this  mission.  I 
drank,  soon  after  my  arrival,  a  glass  of  red  wine  manvifactured 
liere,  of  a  good  quality. 

The  mission  of  San  Fernando  is  situated  at  the  head  of  an 
extensive  and  very  fertile  plain,  judging  from  the  luxuriance  of 
the  grass  and  other  vegetation  now  springing  up.  I  noticed  in 
the  granary  from  which  our  horses  were  supplied  with  food, 
many  thousand  bushels  of  corn.  The  ear  is  smaller  than  that 
of  the  com  of  the  Southern  States.  It  resembles  the  maize 
cultivated  in  the  Northern  States,  the  kernel  being  hard  and 
polished.  Large  herds  of  cattle  and  sheep  were  grazing  upon 
the  plain  in  sight  of  the  mission. 

January  12. — This  morning  two  Calif omian  oflScers,  accom- 
panied by  Tortoria  Pico,  who  marched  with  us  from  San  Loii 
Obispo,  oame  to  the  mission  to  treat  for  peace.     A  oonsaha' 


592  CAPITULATION. 

tion  was  held  and  terms  were  suggested,  and,  as  I  understand, 
partly  agreed  upon,  but  not  concluded.  The  officers  left  in  the 
afternoon. 

January  13. — We  continued  our  march,  and  encamped  near 
a  deserted  rancho  at  the  foot  of  Couenga  plain.  Soon  after  we 
halted  the  Californian  peace- commissioners  appeared,  and  the 
terms  of  peace  and  capitulation  were  finally  agreed  upon  and 
signed  by  the  respective  parties.     They  were  as  follows : 

ARTICLES  OF  CAPITULATION 

Made  and  f-ntered  into  at  the  Ranch  of  Couenga,  this  thirteenth  day  of 
January,  eighteen  hundred  and  forty-seven,  between  P.  B.  Reading,  major; 
Louis  McLane,  jr.,  commanding  3rd  Artillery ;  William  H.  Russell,  ord- 
nance otHcer — commissioners  appointed  by  J.  C.  Fremont,  Colonel  United 
States  Army,  and  Military  Commandant  of  California ;  and  Jose  Antonio 
Carrillo,  commandant  esquadron  ;  Augustin  Olivera,  deputado — commis- 
sioners appointed  by  Don  Andres  Pico,  Commander-in-chief  of  the  Califor- 
nian forces  under  the  Mexican  flag. 

Article  1st.  The  Commissioners  on  the  part  of  the  Californians  agree 
that  their  entire  force  shall,  on  presentation  of  themselves  to  Lieutenant- 
colonel  Fremont,  deliver  up  their  artillery  and  public  arms,  and  that  they 
shall  return  peaceably  to  their  homes,  conforming  to  the  laws  and  regula- 
tions of  the  United  States,  and  not  again  take  up  arms  during  the  war  be- 
tween the  United  States  and  Mexico,  but  will  assist  and  aid  in  placing  the 
country  in  a  state  of  peace  and  tranquillity. 

Article  2iid.  The  Commissioners  on  the  part  of  Lieutenant-colonel  Fre- 
mont agree  and  bind  themselves,  on  the  fulfilment  of  the  1st  Article  by  the 
Californians,  that  they  shall  be  guarantied  protection  of  life  and  property, 
whether  on  parole  or  otherwise. 

Article  .7d.  That  until  a  Treaty  of  Peace  be  made  and  signed  between 
the  United  States  of  North  America  and  the  Republic  of  Mexico,  no  Cali- 
fornian or  other  Mexican  citizen  shall  be  bound  to  take  the  oath  of  alle- 
giance. 

Article  4th.  That  any  Californian  or  citizen  of  Mexico,  desiring,  is  per- 
mitted by  this  capitulation  to  leave  the  country  without  let  or  hinderance. 

Article  5lh  That  in  virtue  of  the  aforesaid  articles,  equal  righte  and  privi- 
leges are  vouchsafod  to  every  citizen  of  California,  as  are  enjoyed  by  the 
citizens  of  the  United  States  of  North  America. 

Article  6th.  All  ollicers,  citiz»n.s,  foreigners  or  others,  shall  receive  Uia 
protection  guarantied  by  the  2d  Article. 

Arl.cle  7lh.  This  capitulation  is  intended  to  bo  no  bar  in  effecting  luck 
wrtangemeaXa  an  may  iu  future  be  in  justice  required  by  both  partiea 


ARRIVK  AT  LOS  ANGELES.  89S 

ADDITIONAL  ARTICLE. 

CiuDAD  DE  LOS  Anqeles,  Jed  16th,  1847. 
That  the  paroles  ol  aH  officers,  citizens  and  others  of  the  United  Statei 
ajd  of  naturalized  citizens  of  Mexico,  are  by  this  foregoing  capitulation 
cancelled,  and  every  condition  of  said  paroles,  from  and  after  this  date,  are 
of  no  further  force  and  effect,  and  all  prisoners  of  both  parties  are  hereby 
released. 

P.  B.  Reading,  Maj.  Cal'a.  Battalion. 
Louis  McLane,  Com'd.  Artillery. 
Wm.  H.  Russell,  Ordnance  Officer. 
Jose  Antonio  Carrillo,  Comd't  of  Squadron. 
AuGUSTiN  Olivera,  Deputado. 
Approved, 
J.  C.  Fremont,  Lieut.-Col.  U.  S.  Army,  ajid  Militfiry  Commandant  of 

California. 
Andres  Pico,  Commandant  of  Squadron  and  Chief  of  the  National  forces 
of  California. 

[The  next  morning  a  brass  howitzer  was  brought  into  camp, 
and  dehvered.  What  other  arms  were  given  up  I  cannot  say, 
for  I  saw  none.  Nor  can  I  speak  as  to  the  number  of  Cahfor- 
nians  who  were  in  the  field  under  the  command  of  Andres  Pice 
when  the  articles  of  capitulation  were  signed,  for  they  were 
never  in  sight  of  us  after  we  reached  San  Fernando.]  Distance 
12  miles. 

January  14. — It  commenced  raining  heavily  this  morning. 
Crossing  a  ridge  of  hills  we  entered  the  magnificent  undulating 
plain  surrounding  the  city  of  Angels,  now  verdant  with  a  carpet 
of  fresh  vegetation.  Among  other  plants  I  noticed  the  mustard, 
and  an  immense  quantity  of  the  common  pepper-grass  of  our 
gardens.  We  passed  several  warm  springs  which  throw  up 
large  quantities  of  bitumen  or  mineral  tar.  Urging  our  jaded 
animals  through  the  mud  and  water,  which  in  places  was  very 
deep,  we  reached  the  town  about  3  o'clock. 

A  more  miserably  clad,  wretchedly  provided,  and  unprepos- 
sessing military  host,  probably  never  entered  a  civilized  city. 
In  all  except  our  order,  deportment,  and  arms,  we  might  have 
been  mistaken  for  a  procession  of  tatterdemalions,  or  a  tribe  of 
Nomades  from  Tartary.  There  were  not  many  of  us  so  fortu- 
nate as  to  have  in  our  possession  an  entire  outside  garment 


894  GEN.  Kearny's  repokt. 

and  several  were  without  hats  or  shoes,  or  a  complete  covering 
to  their  bodies.  But  that  we  had  at  last  reached  the  terminua 
of  a  long  and  laborious  march,  attended  with  hardships,  expo- 
sure and  privation  rarely  suffered,  was  a  matter  of  such  heart- 
felt congratulation,  that  these  comparatively  trifling  inconve- 
niences were  not  thought  of.  Men  never,  probably,  in  the  en- 
tire history  of  military  transactions,  bore  these  privations  with 
more  fortitude  or  uttered  fewer  complaints. 

We  had  now  arrived  at  the  abode  of  the  celestials,  if  the  in- 
terpretation of  the  name  of  the  place  could  be  considered  as 
indicative  of  the  character  of  its  population,  and  drenched  with 
rain  and  plastered  with  mud,  we  entered  the  "  city  of  the  An- 
gels," and  matched  through  its  principal  street  to  our  tempo- 
rary quarters.  We  found  the  town,  as  we  expected,  in  the  pos- 
session of  the  United  States  naval  and  military  forces  under  the 
command  of  Commodore  Stockton  and  General  Kearny,  who, 
after  two  engagements  with  six  hundred  mounted  Californians 
on  the  8th  and  9th,  had  marched  into  the  city  on  the  10th. 
The  town  was  almost  entirely  deserted  by  its  inhabitants,  and 
most  of  the  houses,  except  those  belonging  to  foreigners,  or 
occupied  as  quarters  for  the  troops,  were  closed.  I  met  here 
many  of  the  naval  officers  whose  agreeable  acquaintance  I 
had  made  at  San  Francisco.  Among  others  were  Lieutenants 
Thompson,  Hunter,  Gray,  and  Renshaw,  and  Captain  Zeilin  of 
the  marines,  all  of  whom  had  marched  from  San  Diego.  Dis- 
tance 12  miles. 


CHAPTER   XXXIV. 

Military  operations  of  General  Keaniy  and  Commodore  Stockton — Thefa 
reports  to  the  Secretaries  of  War  and  Navy — Battles  of  San  Pasqual  an4 
San  Gabriel 

Thb  operations  of  General  Ke?  my  in  California,  and  after- 
varda  the  joint  operations  of  Commodore  Stockton  and  Genera) 


GEN.  KEARNY*S  REPORT.  39^ 

Kearny,  which  resulted  in  the  defeat  of  the  CaUfornians  on  the 
8th  and  9th  of  January,  and  tlie  capture  of  Los  Angeles,  are 
clearly  and  concisely  stated  in  their  official  reports  to  the  War 
Department,  which  were  dispatched  to  Washington  by  lieut. 
Gray  of  the  navy,  and  Lieut.  Emory  of  the  army,  immediately 
after  ovir  arrival  at  Los  Angeles.     The  reports  are  subjoined. 

Headquartkrb,  Army  op  the  West,  / 

San  Diego,  Upper  California,  Dec.  12,  1846.  > 

Sir  :  As  I  have  previously  reported  to  you,  I  left  Santa  F^  (New  Mexico) 
for  this  country  on  the  25th  September,  with  300  of  the  1st  dragoons,  under 
Major  Sumner.  We  crossed  to  the  bank  of  the  Del  Norte  at  Albuquerque, 
(65  miles  below  Santa  F6,)  continuing  down  on  that  bank  till  the  6th  Octo- 
ber, when  we  met  Mr.  Kit  Carson,  with  a  party  of  sixteen  uen,  on  his  way 
to  Washington  City,  with  a  mail  and  papers,  an  express  fron  Commodore 
Stockton  and  Lieut.-Col.  Fremont,  reporting  that  the  Califv  nias  were  al- 
ready in  possession  of  the  Americans  under  their  command  ;  tl,  t  the  Amer- 
ican flag  was  flying  from  every  important  position  in  the  territo  •,  and  that 
the  country  was  forever  free  from  Mexican  control;  the  war  i  i,ded,  and 
peace  and  harmony  established  among  the  people.  In  consequence  of  this 
information,  I  directed  that  200  dragoons,  under  Major  Sumner,  should  re- 
main in  New  Mexico,  and  that  the  other  100,  with  two  mountain-howitzers, 
under  Captain  Moore,  should  accompany  me  as  a  guard  to  Upper  California. 
With  this  guard,  we  continued  our  march  to  the  south,  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Del  Norte,  to  the  distance  of  about  230  miles  below  Santa  Fe,  when, 
leaving  that  river  on  the  15th  October,  in  about  the  33d  deg.  of  latitude, 
we  marched  westward  for  the  Copper-mines,  which  we  reached  on  the  18th, 
and  on  the  20th  reached  the  river  Gila,  proceeded  down  the  Gila,  crossing 
and  recrossing  it  as  often  as  obstructions  in  our  front  rendered  necessary ; 
on  the  lllh  November  reached  the  Pimos  village,  about  80  miles  from  the 
settlements  in  Sonora.  Those  Indians  we  found  honest,  and  living  comfort- 
ably, having  made  a  good  crop  this  year  ;  and  we  remained  with  them  two 
days,  to  rest  our  men,  recruit  our  animals,  and  obtain  provisions.  On  the 
22d  November,  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Gila,  in  latitude  about  32  degrees 
— our  whole  march  on  this  river  having  been  nearly  500  miles,  and,  with 
but  very  little  exception,  between  the  32d  and  33d  parallels  of  latitude 

This  river,  (the  Gila,)  more  particularly  the  northern  side,  is  bounded 
nearly  the  whole  distance  by  a  range  of  lofty  mountains ;  Jind  if  a  tolerable 
wagon-road  to  its  mouth  frojn  the  Del  Norte  is  ever  discovered,  it  must  bb 
on  the  south  side.  The  country  is  destitute  of  timber,  producing  but  few 
cotton-wood  am .  -"lUsquit-trees ;  anri  though  the  soil  on  the  bottom-lands  ii 
generally  good,  vet  we  found  but  very  little  grass  or  vegetation,  in  cons» 


396  GBN.  KEARNT*S  REPORT. 

qnence  of  the  dryness  of  the  climate  and  the  little  rain  which  fells  her* 
The  Pimos  Indians,  who  make  good  crops  of  wheat,  corn,  vegetables,  &c., 
irrigate  the  land  by  water  from  the  Gila,  as  did  the  Aztecs,  (the  former  in- 
habitants of  the  country,)  the  remains  of  whose  sequias,  or  little  canals,  were 
seen  by  us,  as  well  as  the  position  of  many  of  their  dwellings,  and  a  large 
quantity  of  broken  pottery  and  earthenware  used  by  them. 

We  crossed  the  Colorado  about  10  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Gila,  and 
marching  near  it  about  30  miles  further,  turned  off  and  crossed  the  desert- 
a  distance  of  about  60  miles — without  water  or  grass 

On  the  2d  December,  reached  Warner's  rancho,  (Agua  Caliente,)  the 
frontier  settlement  in  California,  on  the  route  leading  to  Sonora.  On  the 
4th  we  marched  to  Mr.  Stokes's  rancho,  (San  Isabella,)  and  on  the  5th, 
were  met  by  a  small  party  of  volunteers,  under  Captain  Gillespie,  sent  out 
from  San  Diego  by  Commodore  Stockton,  to  give  us  what  information  they 
possessed  of  the  enemy,  600  or  700  of  whom  are  now  said  to  be  in  arms 
and  in  the  field  ^throughout  the  territory,  determined  upon  opposing  the 
Americans  and  resisting  their  authority  in  the  country.  Encamped  that 
night  near  another  rancho  (San  Maria)  of  Mr.  Stokes,  about  40  miles  from 
San  Diego. 

The  journals  and  maps,  kept  and  prepared  by  Captain  Johnston,  (my 
aid-do-camp,)  and  those  by  Lieutenant  Emory,  topographical  engineers, 
which  will  accompany  or  follow  this  report,  will  render  any  thing  further 
from  me,  on  this  subject,  unnecessary. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant,  ; 

S.  W.  KEARNY, 

Brigadier-general,  U.  S.  A 

Brigadier-general  R.  Jones,  ) 
Adjutant-general,  USA     > 

HEADatJARTERS,  ArMY  OF  THE  WeST, 

San  Diego,  Upper  California,  Dec.  13,  1846. 

Sir:  In  my  communication  to  you  of  yesterday's  date,  I  brought  the  le- 
ports  of  the  movements  of  my  guard  up  to  the  morning  of  the  5th  instant, 
in  camp  near  a  rancho  of  Mr.  Stokes,  (Sautu  Maria,)  about  40  miles  from 
San  Diego. 

Having  learned  from  Captain  Gillespie,  of  (he  volunteers,  that  there  was 
an  armed  party  of  Californians,  with  a  number  of  extra  horses  at  San  Pati- 
qual,  three  leagues  distant  on  a  road  loading  to  this  place,  I  sent  Lieutenant 
llamtiiond,  Ist  dragoone  with  a  few  men  to  make  a  recounoissance  of 
them.  He  returned  at  two  in  I  »o  norning  of  the  f'th  instant,  reporting  that 
he  had  found  l\w  party  in  the  ;>iuce  mentioned,  and  that  he  had  bf'-'n  seen, 
though  not  purHued  by  them.  I  then  determined  that  I  wouin  march  for 
Rad  attack  thorn  by  break  of  day.     Arrangements  were  accordingly  mad* 


6BN.  KBARNT*S  REPf  RT.  391 

tot  the  purpose.  My  aid-de-camp,  Capt.  Johnston,  dragoons,  was  assigned 
to  the  command  of  the  advanced  guard  of  twelve  dragoons,  mounted  on  the 
best  horses  we  had ;  then  followed  about  fifty  dragoons  under  Capt.  Moore, 
mounted,  with  but  few  exceptions,  on  the  tired  mules  they  had  ridaen  from 
Santa  F6,  (New  Mexico,  1,050  miles;)  then  about  twenty  volunteers  of 
Captain  Gibson's  company  under  his  command,  and  that  of  Captaui  Gilles- 
pie ;  then  followed  our  two  mountain-howitzers,  with  dragoons  to  manage 
them,  and  under  the  charge  of  Lieutenant  Davidson  of  the  1st  regiment 
The  remainder  of  the  dragoons,  volunteers,  and  citizens,  employed  by  the 
officers  of  the  staff,  &c.,  were  placed  under  the  command  of  Major  Swords, 
(quartermaster,)  with  orders  to  follow  on  our  trail  with  the  baggage,  and  to 
see  to  its  safety. 

As  the  day  (December  6)  dawned,  we  approached  the  enemy  at  SanPeis- 
qual,  who  was  already  in  the  saddle,  when  Captain  Johnston  made  a  furious 
charge  upon  them  with  his  advance-guard,  and  was  in  a  short  time  after 
supported  by  the  dragoons  ;  soon  after  which  the  enemy  gave  way,  having 
kept  up  from  the  beginning  a  continued  fire  upon  us.  Upon  the  retreat  of 
the  c-iieniy,  Captain  Moore  led  ofl^  rapidly  in  pursuit,  accompanied  by  the 
dragoons,  mounted  on  horses,  and  was  followed,  though  slowly,  by  the  others 
on  their  tired  mules ;  the  enemy,  well  mounted,  and  among  the  best  horse- 
men in  the  world,  after  retreating  about  half  a  mile,  and  seeing  an  interval 
between  Captain  Moore  and  his  advance  and  the  dragoons  coming  to  his 
support,  rallied  their  whole  force,  charged  with  their  lances,  and,  on  account 
of  their  greatly  superior  numbers,  but  few  of  us  in  front  remained  untouched ; 
for  five  minutes  they  held  the  ground  from  us,  when  our  men  coming  up, 
we  again  drove  them,  and  they  fled  from  the  field,  not  to  return  to  it,  which 
we  occupied  and  encamped  upon. 

A  most  melancholy  duty  now  remains  for  me :  it  is  to  report  the  death  of 
my  aid-de-camp,  Captain  Johnston,  who  was  shot  dead  at  the  commence- 
ment of  the  action  ;  of  Captain  Moore,  who  was  lanced  just  previous  to  the 
final  retreat  of  the  enemy  ;  and  of  Lieutenant  Hammond,  also  lanced,  and 
who  survived  but  a  few  hours.  We  had  also  killed  two  sergeants,  two  cor- 
porals, and  ten  privates  of  the  1st  dragoons  ;  one  private  of  the  volunteers, 
and  one  man,  an  engage  in  the  topographical  department.  Among  the 
wounded  are  myself,  (in  two  places,)  Lieutenant  Warner,  topographical 
engineers,  (in  three  places,)  Captains  Gillespie  and  Gibson  of  the  volunteers, 
(the  former  in  three  places,)  one  sergeant,  one  bngleman,  and  nine  privates 
of  the  dragoons ;  many  of  these  surviving  from  two  to  ten  lance  wounds, 
most  of  them  when  unhorsed  and  incapable  of  resistance. 

Our  howitzers  were  not  brought  into  the  action  ;  but  coming  to  the  frott 
at  the  close  of  it,  before  they  were  turned,  so  as  to  admit  of  being  fired  upon 
the  retreating  enemy,  the  two  mules  before  one  of  them  got  alarmed,  and 
freeing  themselves  from  their  drivers,  ran  off,  and  among  the  enem}(  SLoi 
▼as  thus  lost  to  us. 

34 


396  GEN.  Kearny's  aeport. 

The  enemy  proved  to  be  a  party  of  16C  Californians  under  Andres  Pic«^ 
brother  of  the  late  governor ;  the  number  of  their  dead  and  wounded  mas* 
have  been  considerable,  though  I  have  no  means  of  ascertaining  how  many, 
as  just  previous  to  their  final  retreat,  they  carried  off  all  excepting  six. 

The  great  number  of  our  killed  and  wounded  proves  that  our  officen 
and  men  have  fully  sustained  the  high  character  and  reputation  of  our 
troops  ;  and  the  victory  thus  gained  over  more  than  double  our  force,  may 
assist  in  forming  the  wreath  of  our  national  glory. 

I  have  to  return  my  thanks  to  many  for  their  gallantry  and  good  condu«** 
on  the  field,  and  particularly  to  Capt.  Turner,  first  dragoons,  (assistant 
acting  adjutant-general,)  and  to  Lieut.  Emory,  topographical  engineers, 
who  were  active  in  the  performance  of  their  duties,  and  in  conveying  orders 
from  me  to  the  command. 

On  the  morning  of  the  7th,  having  made  ambulances  for  our  wounded, 
and  interred  the  dead,  we  proceeded  on  our  march,  when  the  enemy  showed 
himself,  occupying  the  hills  in  our  front,  but  which  they  left  as  we  ap- 
proached ;  till,  reaching  San  Bernado,  a  party  of  them  took  possession  of  a 
hill  near  to  it,  and  maintained  their  position  until  attacked  by  our  advance, 
who  quickly  drove  them  from  it,  killing  and  wounding  five  of  their  number, 
with  no  loss  on  our  part. 

On  account  of  our  wounded  men,  and  upon  the  report  of  the  surgeon 
that  rest  was  necessary  for  them,  we  remained  at  this  place  till  the  morning 
of  the  11th,  when  Lieut.  Gray,  of  the  navy,  in  command  of  a  party  si 
sailors  and  marines,  sent  out  from  San  Diego  by  Com.  Stockton,  joined  us 
We  proceeded  at  10,  a.  m.,  the  enemy  no  longer  showing  himself;  and  on 
the  I2th,  (yesterday,)  we  reached  this  place  ;  and  I  have  now  to  offer  my 
thanks  to  Com.  Stockton,  and  all  of  his  gallant  command,  for  tho  very 
many  kind  attentions  we  have  received  and  continue  to  receive  from  the  m. 
Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

S.  W.  KEARNY,  Brig.  Gen.  U.  S.  A. 

BaiGADIBR-GENERAL  R.  JoNES, 

Adjutant-general,  U.  S.  A.,  Washington. 

Headquarters,  Army  of  the  West, 
Ciudad  de  los  Angeles,  Upper  California,  Jan.  12,  1847. 
Sir  :  I  have  the  honor  to  report  that,  at  the  request  of  Com.  R.  F.  Stock- 
ton, United  Stales  Navy,  (who  in  September  last  assumed  the  title  of  gov 
ernor  of  C-'alifornia,)  I  co  isentcd  to  take  command  of  an  e.xpedition  to  thi" 
place,  (the  capital  of  tlie  country  )  and  that,  on  the  29th  December,  I  left 
San  Diego  with  about  ."iOO  meui  lonsisting  of  sixty  dismounted  dragooni 
under  Capt.  Turner,  fifty  California  vohintoors,  and  the  remainder  of  ma- 
rines and  sailors,  with  a  battery  of  artillery — Lieut.  Emory  (topographical 
engineers)  acting  as  asHistaut  adjutant-general.  Com.  Stockton  accom' 
panied  ua. 


GEN.  KEARNY*S  REPORT.  399 

We  proceeded  on  our  route  without  seeing  the  enemy,  till  on  the  8th 
iliBtant,  when  they  showed  themselves  in  full  force  of  600  mounted  men, 
with  four  pieces  of  artillery,  under  their  governor,  (Flores,)  occupying  the 
heights  in  front  of  us,  which  commanded  the  crossing  of  the  river  San 
Gabriel,  and  they  ready  to  oppose  our  further  progress.  The  necessary  dis- 
position of  our  troops  was  immediately  made,  by  covering  our  front  with  a 
strong  party  of  skirmishers,  placing  our  wagons  and  baggage-train  in  rear 
of  them,  and  protecting  the  flanks  and  rear  with  the  remainder  of  the  com- 
mand. We  then  proceeded,  forded  the  river,  carried  the  heights,  and  drove 
the  enemy  from  them,  after  an  action  of  about  an  hour  and  a  half,  during 
which  they  made  a  cliarge  upon  our  left  flank,  which  was  repulsed  ;  soon 
after  which  they  retreated  and  left  us  in  possession  of  the  field,  on  which  we 
encamped  that  night. 

The  next  day  (the  9th  instant)  we  proceeded  on  our  march  at  the  usual 
hour,  the  enemy  in  our  front  and  on  our  flanks:  and  when  we  reached  the 
plains  of  the  Mesa,  their  artillery  again  opened  upon  us,  when  their  fire  was 
returned  by  our  guns  as  we  advanced  ;  and  after  hovering  around  and  near 
us  for  about  two  hours,  occasionally  skirmishing  with  us  during  that  time, 
they  concentrated  their  force  and  made  another  charge  on  our  left  flank, 
which  was  quickly  repulsed.  Shortly  after  which  they  retired,  we  contin- 
uing our  march,  and  we  (in  the  afternoon)  encamped  on  the  banks  of  the 
Mesa,  three  miles  below  this  city,  which  we  entered  the  following  morning 
(the  10th  instant)  without  further  molestation. 

Our  loss  in  the  actions  of  the  8th  and  9th  was  small,  being  but  one  private 
killed,  and  two  officers — Lieut.  Rowan  of  the  navy,  and  Capt.  Gillespie,  of 
the  volunteers,  and  eleven  privates  wounded.  The  enemy,  mounted  on 
fine  horses,  and  being  the  best  riders  in  the  world,  carried  off  their  killed 
and  wounded,  and  we  know  not  the  number  of  them,  though  it  must  have 
been  considerable. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

S.  W.  KEARNY,  Brigadier-general. 

Brigadier-general  R.  Jones, 

Adjutant-general,  U.  S.  A.,  Washington. 

Statement  of  killed  and  wounded  in  the  action  of  the  8th  January,  1847 
Killed. — Frederick  Strauss,  seaman.  United  States  ship  Portsmouth,  ar- 
tillery corps  ;  cannon-shot  in  neck. 

Wounded. — 1st.  Jacob  Hait,  volunteer,  artillery  driver,  wound  in  left 
breast ;  died  on  evening  of  9th.  2d.  Thos.  Smith,  ordinary  seaman, 
United  States  ship  Cyaue,  company  D,  musketeers,  shot,  by  accident, 
through  the  right  thigh  ;  died  on  night  of  the  8'..h.  3d.  William  Cope 
seaman.  United  States  ship  Savannah,  company  B,  musketeers,  wound  in 
flw  right  thigh  and  right  arm  ;  severe.  4'i,h.  George  Bantum,  ordi- 
nary seaman,  United  States  ship  Cvane,  pikeman,   punctured   wound  of 


400  GEN.  Kearny's  report 

hand,  accidental ;  slight.  5th.  Patrick  Campbell,  seaman,  United  States 
ship  Cyane,  company  D,  musketeers,  wound  in  thigh  by  spent  ball ;  sligh-- 
6th.  William  Scott,  private.  United  States  marine  corps,  ship  Portsmouth, 
wound  in  the  chest,  spent  ball ;  slight.  7th.  James  Hendry,  seaman. 
United  States  ship  Congress,  company  A,  musketeers,  spent  ball,  wound 
over  stomach  ;  slight  Sth.  Joseph  Wilson,  seaman.  United  States  ship 
Congress,  company  A,  musketeers,  wound  in  right  thigh,  spent  ball ;  slight. 
9th.  Ivory  Coffin,  seaman,  United  States  ship  Savannah,  company  B,  mus- 
keteers, contusion  of  right  knee,  spent  ball  ;  slight. 

Wounded  on  the  9th. — 1st.  Mark  A.  Child,  private,  company  C,  1st 
regiment  United  States  dragoons,  gunshot  wound  in  right  heel,  penetrating 
upwards  into  the  ankle-joint ;  severe.  2d.  James  Cambell,  ordinary  sea- 
man, United  States  ship  Congress,  company  D,  carbineers,  wound  in  right 
foot,  second  toe  amputated  ;  accidental  discharge  of  his  own  carbine.  3d 
George  Crawford,  boatswafe's  mate.  United  States  ship  Cyane,  company  D, 
musketeers,  wound  in  left  thigh  ;  severe.  Lieut.  Rowan,  United  States 
navy,  and  Capt.  Gillespie,  California  battalion,  volunteers,  contused  slightlj 
by  spent  balls. 

I  am,  sir,  most  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

JOHN  S.  GRIFFIN,  Assistant  Surgeon,  U.  S.  N 
CapL  Wm.  H.  Emory, 

Assistant  Adjutant-general,  U.  S.  forces. 

CiDDAD  DE  LOS  Angeles,  California,  Jan.  11,  1847 

HEADQrARTERS,  ArMY  OF  THE  WeST,  "i 

Ciudad  de  los  Angeles,  Upper  California,  Jan.  14,  1847.  \ 
Sir:  This  morning.  Lieutenant-colonel  Fremont,  of  the  regiment  of 
mounted  riflemen,  reached  here  with  400  volunteers  from  the  Sacramento  ; 
the  enemy  capitulated  with  him  yesterday,  near  San  Fernando,  agreeing 
to  lay  down  their  arms,  and  we  have  now  the  prospect  of  having  peace  and 
quietness  in  this  country,  which  I  hope  may  not  be  interrupted  again. 

I  have  not  yet  received  any  information  of  the  troops  which  were  to 
come  from  New  York,  nor  of  those  to  follow  me  from  New  Mexico,  but 
presume  they  will  be  liere  before  long.  On  their  arrival,  I  shall,  agreeably 
to  the  instructions  of  the  President  of  the  United  States,  have  the  manage- 
ment of  affairs  in  this  country,  and  will  endeavor  to  carry  out  his  views  io 
relation  to  it. 

Very  respectfully    your  obedient  servant, 

S.  W.  KEARNY   Brigadier-genermL 
Buoadier-orneral  R.  Jones, 

Adjutant-gemral,  U  S.  A.,  Waikingtom 


COMMODORE    STOCKTON's   REPORT.  401 


HEADaUARTERS,  ClUDAD  DE  LOS  AnOELES,   ) 

January  11,  1847.  S 

Sra :  I  have  the  honor  to  inform  you  that  it  has  pleeised  God  to  crown 
mki  poor  efforts  to  put  down  the  rebellion,  and  to  retrieve  the  credit  of  our 
arms,  with  the  most  complete  success.  The  insurgents  determined,  with 
their  whole  force,  to  meet  us  on  our  march  from  San  Diego  to  this  place, 
and  to  decide  the  fate  of  the  territory  by  a  general  battle. 

Having  made  the  best  preparation  I  could,  in  the  face  of  a  boasting  and 
vigilant  enemy,  we  left  San  Diego  on  the  29th  day  of  December,  (that 
portion  of  the  insurgent  army  who  had  been  watching  and  annoying  us, 
having  left  to  join  the  main  body,)  with  about  six  hundred  fighting  men, 
composed  of  detachments  from  the  ships  Congress,  Savannah,  Portsmouth, 
and  Cyane,  aided  by  General  Kearny,  with  a  detachment  of  sixty  men  on 
foot,  from  the  first  regiment  of  United  States  dragoons,  and  by  Captain 
Gillespie,  with  sixty  mounted  riflemen. 

We  marched  nearly  one  hundred  and  forty  miles  in  ten  days,  and  found 
the  rebels,  on  the  8th  day  of  January,  in  a  strong  position,  on  the  high  bank 
of  the  "  Rio  San  Gabriel,"  with  six  hundred  mounted  men  and  four  pieces 
of  artillery,  prepared  to  dispute  our  passage  across  the  river. 

We  waded  through  the  water,  dragging  our  guns  after  us,  against  the 
galling  fire  of  the  enemy,  without  exchanging  a  shot,  until  we  reached  the 
opposite  shore,  when  the  fight  became  general,  and  our  troops  having  re- 
pelled a  charge  of  the  enemy,  charged  up  the  bank  in  a  most  gallant  man- 
ner, and  gained  a  complete  victory  over  the  insurgent  army. 

The  next  day,  on  our  march  across  the  plains  of  the  "  Mesa"  to  this 
place,  the  insurgents  made  another  desperate  effort  to  save  the  capital  and 
their  own  necks ;  they  were  concealed  with  their  artillery  in  a  ravine  until 
we  came  within  gunshot,  when  they  opened  a  brisk  fire  from  their  field- 
pieces  on  our  right  flank,  and  at  the  same  time  charged  both  on  our  front 
and  rear.  We  soon  silenced  their  guns,  and  repelled  the  charge,  when 
they  fled,  and  permitted  us  the  next  morning  to  marcli  into  town  without 
any  further  opposition. 

We  have  rescued  the  country  from  the  hands  of  the  insurgents,  but  1 
fear  that  the  absence  of  Colonel  Fremont's  battalion  of  mounted  riflemen 
will  enable  most  of  the  Mexican  officers,  who  have  broken  their  parole,  to 
escape  to  Sonora. 

I  am  happy  to  say  that  our  loss  in  killed  and  wounded  does  not  exceed 
twenty,  whilst  we  are  informed  that  the  enemy  has  lost  between  seventy 
uid  eighty. 

This  dispatch  must  go  immediately,  and  I  will  wait  another  opportuiutj 
84* 


402  COMMODORE    STOCKTON  S    I JIPORT. 

to  furaiah  you  with  the  details  of  these  two  battlf  e,  and  the  gallant  condne* 
of  the  officers  and  men  under  my  command,  with  their  names. 
Faitb^illy,  your  ohedient  servant, 

R.  F.  STOCKTON,  Commodore,  ^e 


To  the  Hon.  George  Bancroft, 


)FT,  ) 

on,  D.  C.  \ 


Secretary  of  the  Navy,  Washingt 

P.  S.  Enclosed  I  have  the  honor  to  send  to  you  a  translation  of  the  lett-^i 
handed  to  me  by  the  commissioners  mentioned  in  another  part  of  this 
dispatch,  sent  by  Jos6  Ma.  Flores,  to  negotiate  peace  honorable  to  both 
nations.  The  verbal  answer,  stated  in  another  page  of  this  letter,  was  S3nt 
to  this  renowned  general  and  commander-in-chief.  He  had  violated  hia 
honor,  and  I  would  not  treat  with  him  nor  write  to  him. 

General  Flores'  letter  is  here  given — 
[Translation.] 
Civil  and  Military  Oovernment  of  the  Department  of  California. 

The  undersigned,  governor  and  commandant-general  of  the  department, 
and  commaader-in-chief  of  the  national  troops,  has  the  honor  to  address 
himself  to  the  commander-in-chief  of  the  naval  and  land  forces  of  the 
United  States  of  North  America,  to  say  that  he  has  been  informed  by  per- 
sons worthy  of  credit,  that  it  is  probable  at  this  time  the  differences  which 
have  altered  the  relations  of  friendship  between  the  Mexican  republic  and 
that  of  the  United  States  of  North  America  have  ceased,  and  that  you 
looked  for  the  news  of  the  arrangement  between  the  two  governments  by 
the  schooner  Shark,  expected  every  moment  on  this  coast. 

A  number  of  days  have  elapsed  since  the  undersigned  was  invited  by 
several  foreign  gentlemen  settled  in  the  country,  to  enter  into  a  communica- 
tion with  you,  they  acting  as  mediators,  to  obtain  an  honorable  adjustment 
for  both  forces,  in  consequence  of  the  evils  which  all  feel  are  caused  by  the 
unjust  war  you  wage  ;  but  the  duty  of  the  undersigned  prohibited  bin! 
from  doing  so,  and  if  to-day  he  steps  beyond  the  limits  marked  out  by  iv, 
it  is  with  the  confidence  inspired  by  the  hope  there  exists  a  definitive  ar- 
rangement between  the  two  nations ;  for  the  uudorsigned  being  animated 
with  tlie  strongest  wishes  for  the  return  of  peace,  it  would  be  most  painful 
to  him  not  to  have  taken  tiie  means  to  avoid  the  useless  effusion  of  human 
blood  and  its  terrible  consequences,  during  moments  when  the  general  peace 
might  have  been  secured. 

The  undersigned  flatters  himself  with  this  hope,  and  for  that  reason  has 
thought  ii  op|)orluno  to  (wrcct  to  you  this  note,  which  will  be  placed  in 
your  hands  by  Messrs.  Julian  Workman  and  Charles  Fluge,  who  have 
▼oluntarily  olhired  themselves  to  act  us  mediators.  But  if,  uufortunuteiy, 
the  mentioned  news  Klir)iil(l  prnvc>  untrue,  and  you  should  not  be  disposed  U 


COMMODORE    STOCKTON's    REPORT.  403 

grtat  a  truce  to  the  evils  under  which  this  unfortuaate  country  Buffers,  of 
whioli  70U  alone  are  the  cause,  may  the  terrible  consequences  of  your  want 
of  consideration  fall  on  your  head.  The  citizens,  all  of  whom  compose  the 
national  forces  of  this  department,  are  decided  firmly  to  bury  themselves 
under  the  ruins  of  their  country,  combating  to  the  last  moment,  before  con- 
senting to  the  tyranny  and  ominous  discretionary  power  of  the  agents  of 
the  government  of  the  United  States  of  North  America. 

This  is  no  problem  ;  different  deeds  of  arms  prove  that  they  know  how 
to  defend  their  rights  on  the  field  of  battle. 

The  undersigned  still  confides  you  will  give  a  satisfactory  solution  to  this 
affair,  and  in  the  mean  time  has  the  honor  of  offering  to  you  the  assuranot 
of  his  consideration  and  private  esteem. 

God  and  liberty  !  JOSE  MA.  FLORES 

Headquarters  at  the  Angbles,  i 
January  1,  1847.  S 


General  Order. 

Headquarters,  Ciudad  db  lob  Anobi.eb,  i 

January  11, 1847.  ^ 

'  The  commander-in-chief  congratulates  the  officers  and  men  of  the 
southern  division  of  the  United  States  forces  in  California,  on  the  brilliant 
victories  obtained  by  them  over  the  enemy  on  the  8th  and  9th  instants,  and 
on  once  more  taking  possession  of  the  "  Ciudad  de  los  Angeles." 

He  takes  the  earliest  moment  to  commend  their  gallantry  and  good  con- 
duct, both  in  the  battle  fought  on  the  8t]i,  on  the  banks  of  the  "  Rio  San 
Gabriel,"  and  on  the  9th  instant,  on  the  plains  of  the  "  Mesa." 

The  steady  courage  of  the  troops  in  forcing  their  passage  across  the 
"  Rio  San  Gabriel,"  where  officers  and  men  were  alike  employed  in  drag- 
ging the  guns  through  the  water  against  the  galling  fire  of  the  enemy, 
without  exchanging  a  shot,  and  their  gallant  charge  up  the  banks  against 
the  enemy's  cavalry,  has  perhaps  never  been  surpassed  ;  and  the  cool  de- 
termination with  which,  in  the  battle  of  the  9th,  they  repulsed  the  charge 
of  cavalry  made  by  the  enemy  at  the  same  time  on  their  front  and  rear^ 
nas  extorted  the  admiration  of  the  enemy,  and  deserves  the  best  thanks  JJ 
thnr  countrjrmen. 

R.  F.  STOCKTON, 

Ghternor  and  Commander-in-chief 

of  the  Territory  of  Califorma 


404  COMMODORE    STOCKTON's   REPORT. 

On  the  14th,  Colonel  Fremont  had  arrived,  and  Commodore 
Stockton  wrote  as  follows — 

HlADaUARTERS,  ClUDAD  DE  LOB  AmQEUS,  ) 

January  15,  1847.  \ 

Sir  :  Referring  to  my  letter  of  the  11th,  I  have  the  honor  to  inform  you 
»f  the  arrival  of  Lieutenant-colonel  Fremont  at  this  place,  with  four  hun- 
dred men — that  some  of  the  insurgents  have  made  their  escape  to  Sonora, 
and  that  the  rest  have  surrendered  to  our  arms. 

Immediately  after  the  battles  of  the  8th  and  9th,  they  began  to  disperse  ; 
and  I  am  sorry  to  say  that  their  leader,  Josd  Ma.  Flores,  made  his  escape 
and  that  the  others  have  been  pardoned  by  a  capitulation  agreed  upon  by 
Lieutenant-colonel  Fremont. 

Jos6  Ma.  Flores,  the  commander  of  the  insurgent  forces,  two  or  three 
days  previous  to  the  8th,  sent  two  commissioners  with  a  flag  of  truce  to 
my  camp,  to  make  a  "  treaty  of  peace."  I  informed  the  commissiouers- 
that  I  could  not  recognise  Jos6  Ma.  Flores,  who  had  broken  his  parole,  as 
an  honorable  man,  or  as  one  having  any  rightful  authority,  or  worthy  to  be 
treated  with — that  he  was  a  rebel  iu  arms,  and  if  I  caught  him  I  would 
have  him  shot.  It  seems  that  not  being  able  to  negotiate  with  me,  and 
having  lost  the  battles  of  the  8th  and  9th,  they  met  Colonel  Fremont  on  the 
12th  instant,  on  his  way  here,  who,  not  knowing  what  had  occurred,  he 
entered  into  the  capitulation  with  them,  which  I  now  send  to  you;  aud, 
although  I  refused  to  do  it  myself,  still  I  have  thought  it  best  to  approve  it. 

The  territory  of  California  is  again  tranquil,  and  the  civil  governmeiil 
formed  by  me  is  again  in  operation  in  the  places  where  it  was  interrupted 
by  the  insurgents. 

Colonel  Fremont  has  five   hundred   men  in   his  battalion,  which  will   be 
quite  sufficient  to  preserve  the  peace  of  the  territory  ;  and  I  will  immediately 
withdraw  my  sailors  and  marines,  and  sail  as  soon  as  possible  for  the  coasl 
of  Mexico,  where  I  hope  they  will  give  a  good  account  of  thpmselves, 
Faithfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

R.  F.  STOCKION,  Commodore,  ^ 


To  the  Hon.  Geof  >ie  Bancroft, 
Secretary  of  the  Navy,  Waahingtor. 


rv,  i 

.,  D.  C  I 


CITT  OF  AlTGEUi.  405 


CHAPTER    XXXV. 

City  of  Angels — Gardens — ^Vineyards — Produce  of  the  vine  in  California- 
General  products  of  the  country — Reputed  personal  charms  of  the  fe- 
males of  Los  Angeles — San  Diego — Gold  and  quicksilver  mines — Lowei 
California — Bituminous  springs — Wines — A  Kentuckian  among  the  an- 
gels— Missions  cf  San  Gabriel  and  San  Luis  Rey — Gen.  Kearny  and 
Cora.  Stockton  leave  for  San  Diego — Col.  Fremont  appointed  Governor 
of  California  by  Com.  Stockton — Com.  Shubrick's  general  order — Insur- 
rection in  the  northern  part  of  California  suppressed — Arrival  of  Col. 
Cook  at  San  Diego. 

La  Ciudad  de  los  Angeles  is  the  largest  town  in  California, 
containing  between  fifteen  hundred  and  two  thousand  inhabitants. 
Its  streets  are  laid  out  without  any  regard  to  regularity.  The 
buildings  are  generally  constructed  of  adobes  one  and  two  sto- 
ries high,  with  flat  roofs.  The  public  buildings  are  a  church, 
quartel,  and  government  house.  Some  of  the  dwelling-houses 
are  frames,  and  large.  Few  of  them,  interiorly  or  exteriorly, 
have  any  pretensions  to  architectural  taste,  finish,  or  conveni- 
ence of  plan  and  arrangement.  The  town  is  situated  about  20 
miles  from  the  ocean,  in  an  extensive  undulating  plain,  bounded 
on  the  north  by  a  ridge  of  elevated  hills,  on  the  east  by  high 
mountains  whose  summits  are  now  covered  with  snow,  on  the 
west  by  the^cean,  and  stretching  to  the  south  and  southeast  as 
far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  The  Rio  St.  Gabriel  flows  near 
the  town.  This  stream  is  skirted  with  numerous  vineyards  and 
gardens,  enclosed  by  willow  hedges.  The  gardens  produce  a 
great  variety  of  tropical  fruits  and  plants.  The  yield  of  the 
vineyards  is  very  abundant ;  and  a  large  quantity  of  wines  of  a 
good  quality  and  flavor,  and  aguardiente,  are  manufactured 
here.  Some  of  the  vineyards,  I  understand,  contain  as  many 
as  twenty  thousand  vines.  The  produce  of  the  vine  in  Califor- 
nia will,  undoubtedly,  in  a  short  time  form  an  important  item 
in  its  exports  and  commerce.      The  soil  and  cUmate,  especially 


406  CITY  OF  ANGELS. 

of  the  southern  portion  of  the  country,  appear  to  be  peculiarly 
adapted  to  the  culture  of  the  grape. 

We  found  in  Los  Angeles,  an  abundance  of  maixe,  wheat,  and 
&ijoles,  showing  that  the  surrounding  country  is  highly  produc- 
tive of  these  important  articles  of  subsistence.  There  are  nc 
mUls,  however,  in  this  vicinity,  the  universal  practice  of  Cali- 
fornian  famiUes  being  to  grind  their  corn  by  hand  ;  and  conse- 
quently flour  and  bread  are  very  scarce,  and  not  to  be  obtained 
in  any  considerable  quantities.  The  only  garden  vegetables 
which  I  saw  while  here,  were  onions,  potatoes,  and  chile  color 
ado,  or  red  pepper,  which  enters  very  largely  into  the  cuisine  of 
the  country.  I  do  not  doubt,  however,  that  every  description 
of  garden  vegetables  can  be  produced  here,  in  perfection  and 
abundance. 

WhUe  I  remained  at  Los  Angeles,  I  boarded  with  two  or 
three  other  officers,  at  the  house  of  a  Mexican  Californian,  the 
late  alcalde  of  the  town,  whose  political  functions  had  ceased. 
He  was  a  thin,  delicate,  amiable,  and  very  pohte  gentleman, 
ti'eating  us  with  much  courtesy,  for  which  we  paid  him,  when 
his  bill  was  presented,  a  very  liberal  compensation.  In  the 
morning  we  were  served,  on  a  common  deal  table,  with  a  cup 
of  coffee  and  a  plate  of  tortillas.  At  eleven  o'clock,  a  more 
substantial  meal  was  provided,  consisting  of  stewed  beef,  sea- 
soned with  chile  Colorado,  a  rib  of  roasted  beef,  and  a  plate  of 
frijoles,  with  tortillas,  and  a  bottle  of  native  wine.  Our  supper 
was  a  second  edition  of  the  eleven  o'clock  entertainment. 

The  town  being  abandoned  by  most  of  its  population,  and 
especially  by  the  better  class  of  the  female  portion  of  it,  those 
who  remained,  which  I  saw,  could  not,  without  injustice,  be 
considered  as  fair  specimens  of  the  angels,  which  are  reputed 
here  to  inhabit.  I  did  not  happen  to  see  one  beautiful  or  even 
comely-looking  woman  in  the  place;  but  as  the  fair  descend- 
ants of  Eve  at  Los  Ango'es  have  an  exalted  reputation  for  per- 
sonal cliarms,  doubtless  the  reason  of  the  invisibility  of  those 
examples  of  feminine  attractions,  so  far-famed  and  so  much 
looked  for  by  the  sojourner,  is  to  be  ascribed  to  their  "una- 
voidable absence,"  on  account  of  the  dangers  and  casualties  0/ 


BAT  OF  SAN  PEDRO.  407 

war.  At  tliis  time,  of  course,  every  thing  in  regard  to  society, 
as  it  usually  exists  here,  is  in  a  state  of  confusion  and  disor- 
ganization, and  no  correct  conclusions  in  reference  to  it,  can  bf 
drawn  from  observation  under  such  circumstances. 

The  Bay  of  San  Pedro,  about  twenty- five  miles  south  of  Los 
Angeles,  is  the  port  of  the  town.  The  bay  affords  a  good  an- 
chorage for  vessels  of  any  size,  but  it  is  not  a  safe  harbor  at  all 
times,  as  I  have  been  informed  by  experienced  nautical  men  on 
this  coast.  The  St.  Gabriel  river  empties  into  the  bay.  The 
mission  of  San  Gabriel  is  about  twelve  miles  east  of  Los  An- 
geles. It  is  represented  as  an  extensive  establishment  of  this 
kind,  the  lands  surrounding  and  belonging  to  it  being  highly 
fertile.  The  mission  of  San  Luis  Rey  is  situated  to  the  south, 
about  midway  between  Los  Angeles  and  San  Diego.  This 
mission,  according  to  the  descriptions  which  I  have  received  of 
it,  is  more  substantial  and  tasteful  in  its  construction  than  any 
Other  in  the  country  ;  and  the  gardens  and  grounds  belonging  to 
it  are  now  in  a  high  state  of  ciiltivation. 

San  Diego  is  the  most  southern  town  in  Upper  California.  It 
is  situated  on  the  Bay  of  San  Diego,  in  latitude  33°  north.  The 
country  back  of  it  is  described  by  those  who  have  travelled 
through  it  as  sandy  and  arid,  and  incapable  of  supporting  any 
considerable  population.  There  are,  however,  it  is  reported  on 
authority  regarded  as  rehable,  rich  mines  of  quicksilver,  copper, 
gold,  and  coal,  in  the  neighborhood,  which,  if  such  be  the  fact, 
will  before  long  render  the  place  one  of  considerable  impor- 
tance. The  harbor,  next  to  that  of  San  Francisco,  is  the  best 
on  the  Pacific  coast  of  North  America,  between  tlie  Sti-aits  of 
Fuca  and  Acapulco. 

For  the  following  interesting  account  of  Lower  California  1 
am  indebted  to  Rodman  M.  Price,  Esq.,  purser  of  the  U.  S. 
sloop-of-war  Cyane,  who  has  been  connected  with  most  of  the 
importants  events  which  have  recently  taken  place  in  Upper 
and  Lower  California,  and  whose  observations  and  opinions  are 
valuable  and  reliable.  It  will  be  seen  that  the  observations  of 
Mr.  Price  diifer  materially  from  the  generally  received  opinioiu 
in  reference  to  Lower  California. 


106  LOWER  CALIFORNIA 

Burlington,  N.  J.,  Juru  7,  1848. 

Dear  Sm, — It  affords  me  pleasure  to  give  you  all  the  infor- 
mation I  have  about  Lower  California,  derived  from  persona, 
observation  at  several  of  its  ports  that  I  have  visited,  in  the  U. 
S.  ship  Cyane,  in  1846-47. 

Cape  St.  Lucas,  the  southern  extremity  of  the  peninsula  of 
Lower  California,  is  in  Lat.  22°  45'  N.,  has  a  bay  that  affords 
a  good  harbor  and  anchorage,  perfectly  safe  nine  months  in  the 
year ;  but  it  is  open  to  the  eastward,  and  the  huiTicanes  which 
sometimes  occur  during  July,  August,  and  September,  blow  the 
strongest  from  the  southeast,  so  that  vessels  will  not  venture  in 
the  bay  dming  the  hm-ricane  season.  I  have  landed  twice  at 
the  Cape  in  a  small  boat,  and  I  think  a  breakwater  can  be  built, 
at  small  cost,  so  as  to  make  a  safe  harbor  at  all  seasons.  Stone 
can  be  obtaiaed  with  great  ease  from  three  cones  of  rocks  rising 
from  the  sea,  and  forming  the  extreme  southerly  point  of  the 
Cape,  called  the  Frayles.  Looking  to  the  future  trade  and  com- 
merce of  the  Pacific  ocean,  this  great  headland  must  become  a 
most  important  point  as  a  depot  for  coal  and  merchandise,  and 
a  most  convenient  location  for  vessels  trading  on  that  coast  to 
get  their  supplies.  Mr.  Ritchie,  now  residing  there,  supplies  a 
large  number  of  whale-ships  that  cruise  off  the  Cape,  annually, 
with  fresh  provisions,  fruits,  and  water.  The  supplies  are  drawn 
from  the  valley  of  San  Jose,  twenty  mQes  north  of  the  Cape, 
as  the  land  in  its  immediate  vicinity  is  mountainous  and  sterile ; 
but  the  valley  of  San  Jose  is  extensive  and  well  cultivated,  pro- 
ducing the  greatest  variety  of  vegetables  and  fruits.  The  sweet 
and  Irish  potato,  tomato,  cabbage,  lettuce,  beans,  peas,  beets, 
and  carrots,  are  the  vegetables  ;  oranges,  lemons,  bananas,  plan- 
tains, figs,  dates,  grapes,  pomegranates,  and  ohves,  are  its  fruits. 
Good  beef  and  mutton  are  clieap.  A  large  amount  of  sugar- 
cane is  grown,  from  which  is  made  panoche,  a  favorite  sugai 
with  the  natives  :  it  is  the  sirup  from  the  cane  boiled  down,  and 
run  into  cakes  of  a  pound  weight,  and  in  appearance  is  like  our 
maple-sugar. 

Panoche,  cheese,  olives,  raisins,  dried  figs,  and  dates,  put  up 
in  ceroons  of  hide,  with  the  great  staples  of  the  Californiaa— 


LOWER  CALIFORNIA.  409 

hides  and  tallow — make  the  export  of  San  Jose,  which  is  carried 
Lo  San  Bias  and  Mazatlan,  on  the  opposite  coast.  This  com- 
merce the  presence  of  the  Cyane  interrupted,  finding  and  cap- 
ruring  in  the  Bay  of  La  Paz,  just  after  the  receipt  of  the  news 
of  war  on  that  coast,  in  September,  1846,  sixteen  small  craft; 
'.nii  up  during  the  stormy  season,  engaged  in  this  trade. 

I  cannot  dismiss  the  valley  of  San  Jose,  from  which  the  crew 
of  the  Cyane  have  drawn  so  many  luxuries,  without  alluding  to 
the  never-failing  stream  of  excellent  water  that  runs  through 
it  (to  which  it  owes  its  productiveness)  and  empties  into  the 
Gulf  here,  and  is  easily  obtained  for  shipping  when  the  surf  is 
low.  It  is  now  frequented  by  some  of  our  whale-ships,  and 
European  vessels  bound  to  Mazatlan  with  cargoes,  usually  stop 
here  to  get  instructions  from  their  consignees  before  appearing 
off  the  port ;  but  vessels  do  not  anchor  during  the  three  hum- 
"ane  months.  The  view  from  seaward,  up  this  valley,  is  beauti- 
ful mdeed,  being  surrounded  by  high  barren  mountains,  which 
:?  the  general  appearance  of  the  whole  peninsula,  and  gives  the 
"ncression  that  the  whole  country  is  without  soil,  and  unpro- 
fiuctive.  When  your  eye  gets  a  view  of  this  beautiful,  fertUe, 
cmtivated,  rich,  green  valley,  producing  all  the  fruits  and  vege- 
'ftbies  of  the  earth,  Lower  California  stock  rises.  To  one  that 
uias  been  at  sea  for  months,  on  salt  grub,  the  sight  of  this  bright 
spot  of  cultivated  acres,  with  the  tvu-keys,  ducks,  chickens, 
eggs,  vegetables,  and  fruit,  makes  him  believe  the  country  an 
Eldorado.  Following  up  the  coast  on  the  Gulf  side,  after 
passing  Cape  Palmo  good  anchorage  is  foimd  between  the 
peninsula  and  the  island  of  Cerralbo.  Immediately  to  the 
north  of  this  island  is  the  entrance  to  the  great  and  beautiful  bay 
of  La  Paz.  It  has  two  entrances,  one  to  the  north  and  one  to 
the  south  of  the  island  of  Espiritu  Santo.  The  northern  one  is 
the  boldest  and  safest  for  all  craft  drawing  over  twelve  feet. 
The  town  of  La  Paz  is  at  the  bottom  or  south  side  of  the  bay, 
about  twenty  miles  from  the  mouth.  The  bay  is  a  large  and 
beautiful  sheet  of  water.  The  harbor  of  PicheHnque,  of  perfect 
millpond  stillness,  is  formed  inside  of  this  bay.  The  Cyane  lay 
at  tbig  quiet  anchorage  several  days.     Pearl-fishing  is  the  chi^ 

3d 


410  LOWER  CALIFORNIA 

employment  of  the  inhabitants  about  the  bay,  and  the  pearls  are 
said  to  be  of  superior  quaUty,  I  was  shown  a  necklace,  valued 
at  two  thousand  dollars,  taken  in  this  water.  They  are  all  found 
by  diving.  The  Yaque  Indians  are  the  best  divers,  gomg  down 
in  eight-fathom  water.  The  pearl  shells  are  sent  to  China,  and 
are  worth,  at  La  Paz,  one  dollar  and  a  half  the  arroha,  or  twen- 
ty-five pounds.  Why  it  is  a  submarine  diving  apparatus  has 
not  been  employed  in  this  fishery,  with  all  its  advantages  over 
Indian  diving,  I  cannot  say.  Yankee  enterprise  has  not  yet 
reached  this  new  world.  I  cannot  say  this  either,  as  a  country- 
man of  ours,  Mr.  Davis,  living  at  Loretta,  has  been  a  most  sue 
cessful  pearl-fisher,  employing  more  Indians  than  any  one  else 
engaged  m.  the  business.  I  am  sorry  to  add  that  he  has  suffered 
greatly  by  the  war.  The  country  about  La  Paz  is  a  good  gra 
zing  country,  but  very  dry.  The  mountains  in  the  vicinity  are 
said  to  be  very  rich  in  minerals.  Some  silver-mines  near  San 
Antonio,  about  forty  miles  south,  are  worked,  and  produce 
well.  La  Paz  may  export  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  a  year 
of  platapina.  Gold-dust  and  \irgin  gold  are  brought  to  La 
Paz.  The  copper  and  lead  mines  are  numerous  and  rich.  To 
the  north  of  La  Paz  are  numerous  safe  and  good  harbors.  Es- 
condida,  Loretta,  and  Muleje,  are  all  good  harbors,  formed  by 
the  islands  in  front  of  the  main  land.  The  island  of  Carmen, 
lying  in  front  of  Loretta,  has  a  large  salt  lake,  which  has  a  solid 
salt  siirface  of  several  feet  thickness.  The  salt  is  of  good  quahty, 
is  cut  out  like  ice,  and  it  could  supply  the  world.  It  has  here- 
tofore been  a  monopoly  to  the  governor  of  Lower  California, 
who  employed  convicts  to  get  out  the  salt  and  put  it  on  the 
beach  ready  for  shipping.  It  is  carried  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile,  and  is  sent  to  Mazatlan  and  San  Bias.  A  large  quantity 
of  salt  is  used  in  producing  silver.  To  the  north  of  Muleje, 
which  is  nearly  opposite  Guymas,  the  gulf  is  so  much  naiTOwer 
that  it  is  a  harbor  itself.  No  accurate  sm'vey  has  ever  been 
made  of  it — indeed,  all  the  peninsula,  as  well  as  the  coast  of 
Upper  California,  is  laid  down  wrong  on  the  charts,  being 
about  twelve  miles  too  far  easterly.  The  English  government  now 
hare  two  oaval  ships  engaged  in  surveying  the  Gulf  of  California 


LOWER   CALIFORNIA.  411 

On  the  Pacific  coast  of  tlie  peninsula  there  is  the  great  Bay 
af  Magdalena,  which  has  fine  harbors,  but  no  water,  provisions, 
or  inhabitants.  Its  shores  are  high,  barren  mountains,  said  tc 
possess  great  mineral  wealth.  A  fleet  of  whale-ships  have  been 
there  during  the  winter  months  of  the  last  two  years,  for  a  new 
species  of  whale  that  are  found  there,  represented  as  rather  a 
small  whale,  producing  forty  or  fifty  barrels  of  oil ;  and  what 
is  most  singular,  I  was  assured,  by  most  respectable  whahng 
captains,  that  the  oil  is  a  good  paint-oil,  (an  entire  new  quality 
for  fish-oil.)  Geographically  and  commercially,  Lower  Califor- 
nia must  become  very  valuable.  It  will  be  a  constant  source  of 
regret  to  this  country,  that  it  is  not  included  in  the  treaty  of 
peace  just  made  with  Mexico.  We  have  held  and  governed  it 
during  the  war,  and  the  boundary  of  Upper  California  cuts  the 
head  of  the  Gulf  of  California,  so  that  Lower  California  is  left 
entirely  disconnected  with  the  Mexican  territory. 

Cape  St.  Lucas  is  the  great  headland  of  the  Pacific  ocean, 
and  is  destined  to  be  the  Gibraltar  and  entrepot  of  that  coast, 
or  perhaps  La  Paz  may  be  preferred,  on  account  of  its  superior 
harbor.  As  a  possession  to  any  foreign  power,  I  think  Lower 
California  more  valuable  than  the  group  of  the  Sandwich  Isl- 
ands. It  has  as  many  arable  acres  as  that  group  of  islands, 
with  rich  mines,  pearl-fishing,  fine  bays  and  harbors,  with  equal 
health,  and  all  their  productions.  As  a  country,  it  is  dry, 
mountainous,  and  sterile,  yet  possessing  many  fi^ne  valleys  like 
San  Jose,  as  the  old  mission  establishments  indicate.  I  have 
heard  Todas  Santos,  Comondee,  Santa  Guadalupe,  and  others, 
spoken  of  as  being  more  extensive,  and  as  productive  as  Sao 
Jose. 

I  am,  most  faithfully  and  tiiily,  yours, 

RODMAN  M.  PRICE, 

Purser,  U.  S.  Navy. 
EowiN  Bryant,  Esq.,  City  Hotel,  New  York. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Los  Angeles  there  are  a  number  of  warm 
springs  which  throw  out  and  deposite  large  quantities  of  bitumen 
or  mineral  tar.     This  substance,  when  it  cools,  becomes  hard 


412  BITUMEN VINEYARD WINES. 

and  brittle,  like  rosin.  Around  some  ot  these  springs  manv 
acres  of  ground  are  covered  with  this  deposite  to  the  depth  of 
several  feet.  It  is  a  principal  material  in  the  roofing  of  houses. 
When  thrown  upon  the  fire  it  ignites  immediately,  emitting  a 
smoke  like  that  from  turpentine,  and  an  odor  like  that  froin 
bituminous  coal.  This  mineral,  so  abundant  in  California,  may 
one  day  become  a  valuable  article  of  commerce. 

There  are  no  reliable  statistics  in  California.  The  traveller 
is  obliged  to  form  his  estimate  of  matters  and  things  chiefly 
from  his  own  observation.  You  can  place  but  little  reliance 
upon  information  derived  from  the  population,  even  when  they 
choose  to  answer  your  questions ;  and  most  generally  the  re- 
sponse to  your  inquiries  is — "  Quien  sabe,"  (who  knows  ?)  No 
CaUfornian  troubles  his  brains  about  these  matters.  The  quan- 
tity of  wines  and  aguardiente  produced  by  the  vineyards  and 
distilleries,  at  and  near  Los  Angeles,  must  be  considerable — 
basing  my  estimate  upon  the  statement  of  Mr.  Wolfskill,  an 
American  gentleman  residing  here,  and  whose  house  and  vine- 
yard I  visited.  Mr.  W.'s  vineyard  is  young,  and  covers  about 
forty  acres  of  ground,  the  number  of  vines  being  4,000  or  5,000. 
P>om  the  produce  of  these,  he  told  me,  that  last  year  he  made 
180  casks  of  wine,  and  the  same  quantity  of  aguardiente.  A 
cask  here  is  sixteen  gallons.  When  the  vines  mature,  their 
produce  will  be  greatly  increased.  Mr.  W.'s  vineyard  is  doubt- 
less a  model  of  its  kind.  It  was  a  delightful  recreation  to  stroll 
through  it,  and  among  the  tropical  fruit-trees  bordering  its 
walks.  His  house,  too,  exhibited  an  air  of  cleanliness  and  com- 
fort, and  a  convenience  of  arrangement  not  often  met  with  in 
this  country.  He  set  out  for  our  refreshment  three  or  four 
specimens  of  his  wines,  some  of  which  would  compare  favorably 
with  the  best  French  and  Madeira  wines.  The  aguardiente  and 
peach-brandy,  which  I  tasted,  of  Iiis  manufacture,  being  mel- 
lowed by  age,  were  of  an  excellent  flavor.  The  quantity  of 
wine  and  aguardiente  produced  in  California,  I  would  suppose, 
amounted  to  100,000  casks  of  sixteen  gallons,  or  1,600,000 
gallons.    Th's  quantity,  by  culture,  can  be  increased  indefinitely. 

It  was  not  possible  to  obtain,  at  Los  Angeles,  a  piece  of  wool* 


SCARCITY  OF  CLOTHING CLIMATB.  418 

en  cloth  sufficiently  large  for  a  pair  of  pantaloons,  or  a  pair  of 
shoes,  which  would  last  a  week.  I  succeeded,  after  searching 
through  all  the  shops  of  the  town,  in  procuring  some  black 
cotton-velvet,  for  four  yards  of  which  I  paid  the  sum  of  $12. 
In  the  United  States  the  same  article  would  probably  have  cost 
$1.50.  For  four  dollars  more  I  succeeded  in  getting  the  pan- 
taloons made  up  by  an  American  tailor,  who  came  into  the 
country  with  General  Kearny's  forces.  A  Rocky  Mountain 
trapper  and  trader,  (Mr.  Goodyear,)  who  has  established  himself 
near  the  Salt  Lake  since  I  passed  there  last  year,  fortunately 
arrived  at  Los  Angeles,  bringing  with  him  a  quantity  of  dressed 
deer  and  elk  skins,  which  were  purchased  for  clothing  for  the 
nearly  naked  soldiers. 

Among  the  houses  I  visited  while  here,  was  that  of  Mr. 
Pryor,  an  American,  and  a  native  of  Louis\alle,  Ky.  He  has 
been  a  resident  of  the  country  between  twenty  and  thirty  years, 
but  his  Kentucky  manners,  frankness,  and  hospitality  still  adhere 
to  him. 

I  remained  at  Los  Angeles  from  the  14th  to  the  29  th  of 
January.  During  this  time,  with  the  exception  of  three  days, 
the  weather  and  temperature  were  pleasant.  It  rained  one  day, 
and  during  two  days  the  winds  blew  strong  and  cold  from  the 
northwest.  The  nights  are  cool,  but  fires  are  not  requisite  to 
comfort.  The  snow-clad  mountains,  about  twenty-five  or  thirty 
miles  to  the  east  of  us,  contrast  singularly  with  the  brilliant 
fresh  verdure  of  the  plain. 

On  the  18th  of  January  General  Kearny,  with  the  dragoons, 
left  for  San  Diego.  There  was  understood  to  be  a  difference 
between  General  Kearny  and  Commodore  Stockton,  and  Gen- 
eral Kearny  and  Colonel  Fremont,  in  regard  to  their  respective 
powers  and  duties  ;  which,  as  the  whole  subject  has  subsequently 
imdergone  a  thorough  investigation,  and  the  result  made  pubhc, 
it  is  imnecessary  for  me  to  allude  to  more  particixlarly.  I  did 
not  converse  with  General  Kearny  while  he  was  at  Los  Angeles, 
and  consequently  possessed  no  other  knowledge  of  his  \'iews  and 
intentions,  or  of  the  powers  with  which  he  had  been  inrested  by 
the  President,  than  what  I  derived  from  report 

35* 


414  ARRIVAL  OF  COM.  SHUBRICK. 

On  the  19tli,  Commodore  Stockton  and  suite,  witli  a  small 
escort,  left  for  San  Diego.  Soon  after  his  departiu-e  the  bat- 
taUon  was  paraded,  and  the  appointment  of  Colonel  Fremont 
as  governor  of  California,  and  Colonel  W.  H.  Russell  as  secre- 
taiy  of  state,  by  Commodore  Stockton,  was  read  to  them  by 
Colonel  Russell.  It  was  announced,  also,  that  although  Colonel 
Fremont  had  accepted  the  office  of  chief  ci^dl  magistrate  of  Cal- 
ifornia, he  would  still  retain  his  military  office,  and  command 
the  battalion  as  heretofore. 

From  the  date  of  the  annexed  cncular,  v/hich  I  find  pubhshed 
in  the  "  Californian"  newspaper  of  Feb.  6th,  it  was  written  three 
days  after  the  public  announcement  of  Colonel  Fremont  as  gov- 
ernor, as  above  stated. 

A    CIRCULAR. 

The  peace  of  the  country  being  restored,  and  future  tranquillity  vouchsafed 
by  a'treaty  made  and  entered  into  bj'  commissioners  respectively  appointed 
by  the  properly  authorized  California  officers,  on  the  one  hand,  and  by  ray- 
self,  as  military  commandant  of  the  United  States  forces  in  the  district  of 
California,  on  the  other,  by  which  a  civil  government  is  to  take  place  of  the 
military,  an  exchange  of  ail  prisoners,  etc.,  etc.,  forthwith  ensure  to  the  end 
that  order,  and  a  wholesome  civil  police,  should  obtain  throughout  the  laud. 
A  copy  of  which  said  treaty  will  be  immediately  published  in  the  California 
newspaper,  published  at  Monterey 

Therefore,  in  virtue  of  the  aforesaid  treaty,  as  well  as  the  functional  that 
in  me  rest  as  civil  governor  of  California,  I  do  hereby  proclaim  order  and 
peace  restored  to  the  country,  and  require  the  immediate  release  of  all  pris- 
oners, the  return  of  the  civil  officers  to  their  appropriate  duties,  and  as  strict 
an  obedience  of  the  military  to  the  civil  authority  ue  is  consistent  with  the 
security  of  peace,  and  the  maintenance  of  good  order  when  troops  are 
garrisoned. 

Done  at  the  capitol  of  the  territory  of  California,  temporarily  seated  at 
ae  Ciudad  de  ios  Angeles,  this  22d  day  of  January,  a.  d.  1847. 

J.  C.  FREMONT, 
Governor  and  commander-in-chief  of  California. 

Witness — Wm.  H.  Russell,  Secretary  of  State. 

Commodore  Shubrick  bad,  however,  arrived  at  Monterey  on 
the  23d  of  January,  in  the  U.  S.  ship  Independence,  and  rank- 
ing Commodore  Stockton,  had  assumed  the  chief  command  in 
California,  as  appears  by  the  date  of  the  following  general  order^ 
published  in  the  "  Californian"  newspaper  at  Monterey  : — 


▲irOTIIER  INSURRECTION  SUPPRESSED.  415 

GENERAL    ORDER. 

The  commander-in-chief  has  great  satisfaction  in  announcing  to  the  in- 
nabitants  of  Monterey,  that,  from  information  received  from  various  sourcea, 
he  has  every  reason  to  believe  that  the  disorders  vrhich  have  recently  dis- 
turbed the  territory  of  California  are  at  an  end,  and  that  peace  and  security 
are  restored  to  this  district  certainly,  and  he  hopes  to  the  whole  territory. 

The  improved  state  of  affairs  in  the  district,  and  the  arrival  of  a  company 
of  United  States  artillery,  under  Captain  Tompkins,  has  enabled  the  com- 
mander-in-chief to  dispense  with  the  services  of  the  company  of  mounted 
volunteers,  under  Lieutenant  Maddox,  of  the  marine  corps.  The  patriotic 
fcettlers  who  composed  this  company  nobly  stepped  forward  in  time  of  dan- 
ger, and  stood  between  the  flag  of  the  United  States  and  the  defenceless 
women  and  children  of  Monterey,  on  the  one  hand,  and  the  bands  of  lawless 
disturbers  of  the  peace  on  the  other. 

For  such  disinterested  conduct,  the  company  of  mounted  volunteers  under 
Lieutenant  Maddox,  of  tlie  marine  corps,  (acting  as  captain,)  is  tendered  the 
thanks  of  the  commander-in-chief,  and  will  without  doubt  receive  commen- 
dation and  due  recompense  from  the  general  government. 

Given  on  board  the  U.  S.  ship  Independence,  harbor  of  Monterey,  Feb- 
ruary 1st,  1847.  W.  BRADFORD  SHUBRICK, 

Commander-in-chief. 

To  explain  some  of  the  allusions  in  the  preceding  "  General 
Order"  of  Commodore  Shubrick,  it  is  necessary  to  state  that  an 
insurrection,  headed  b}'  Don  Francisco  Sanchez,  had  broken 
out  in  the  upper  portion  of  California  some  time  towards  the 
last  of  December,  which  had  been  put  down  by  a  detachment 
of  marines  and  volunteers.  The  insurgents  had  committed 
some  outrages,  and  among  other  acts  had  taken  prisoner  Lieu- 
tenant W.  A.  Bartlett,  acting  Alcalde  of  San  Francisco,  with 
some  other  Americans.  An  account  of  the  suppression  of  this 
affair,  I  find  in  the  "  Californian"  newspaper  of  February  6th, 
1847,  from  which  it  appears  "  that  a  party  of  one  hundred  and 
one  men,  commanded  by  Captain  Ward  Marston  of  the  United 
States  marines,  marched  from  San  Francisco  on  the  29th  De- 
cember in  seaich  of  the  enemy,  whom  they  discovered  on  the 
2d  of  January,  about  one  hundred  in  number,  on  the  plains  of 
Santa  Clara,  under  the  command  of  Francisco  Sanchez.  An 
attack  was  immediately  ordered.  The  enemy  was  forced  to  re- 
tire, which  they  were  able  to  do  in  safety,  after  some  resistance, 
in  consequence  of  their  superior  horses.   The  affair  lasted  abonl 


416  ANOTHER  INSURRECTION  SUPPRESSED. 

an  hour,  during  which  time  we  had  one  marine  slightly  wounded 
m  the  head,  one  volunteer  of  Captain  Weber's  command  in 
the  leg ;  and  the  enemy  had  one  horse  killed,  and  some  of  their 
forces  supposed  to  be  killed  or  wounded.  In  the  evening  the 
enemy  sent  in  a  flag  of  truce,  with  a  communication,  request- 
ing an  interview  with  the  commanding  officer  of  the  expedition 
the  next  day,  which  was  granted,  whew  an  armistice  was  en- 
tered into,  preparatory  to  a  settlement  of  the  difficulties.  On 
the  3d,  the  expedition  was  reinforced  by  the  mounted  Monterey 
volunteers,  fifty-five  men,  under  command  of  Captain  William 
A.  T.  Maddox,  and  on  the  Vth  by  the  arrival  of  Lieutenant 
Grayson  with  fifteen  men,  attached  to  Captain  Maddox's  com- 
pany. On  the  8th  a  treaty  was  concluded,  by  which  the  enemy 
surrendered  Lieutenant  Bartlett,  and  the  other  prisoners,  as 
well  as  all  their  arms,  including  one  small  field-piece,  their  am- 
munition and  accoutrements ;  and  were  permitted  to  return 
peaceably  to  their  homes,  and  the  expedition  to  their  respective 
posts." 

A  list  of  the  expedition  which  marched  from  San  Francisco 
i.<5  given  as  follows  :  Captain  Ward  Marston,  commandant ;  As- 
sistant-surgeon J.  Duval,  aid-de-camp.  A  detachment  of 
United  States  marines  under  command  of  Lieutenant  Tansil, 
thirty-four  men ;  artillery  consisting  of  one  field-piece,  under 
the  charge  of  Master  William  F.  De  longh,  assisted  by  Mid. 
John  M.  Kell,  ten  men ;  Interpreter  Jolin  Pray ;  mounted  com- 
pany of  San  Jos('  volunteers,  under  command  of  Captain  C.  M. 
Weber,  Lieutenant  John  Murphy,  and  acting  Lieutenant  John 
Reed,  thirty-three  men;  mounted  company  of  Yerba  Buena 
volunteers,  under  command  of  Captain  William  M.  Smith,  Lieu- 
tenant John  Rose,  with  a  small  detachment  under  Captain  J. 
Martin,  twelve  men. 

Thus  ended  the  insurrections,  if  resistance  against  invasion 
can  properly  be  so  called,  in  Upper  California. 

On  the  20th  of  January,  the  force  of  sailors  and  marines 
which  had  marched  with  Commodore  Stockton  and  General 
Kearny,  left  Los  Angeles  to  embark  at  San  Pedro  for  San  Di- 
ego.    On  the  2l8t  a  national  salute  was  fired  by  the  artillerj 


LEAVE   LOS  ANGELES.  417 

company  belonging  to  the  battalion,  in  honor  of  Governor  Fre* 
mont.  On  the  22(1,  letters  were  received  from  San  Diego,  sta- 
ting that  Colonel  Cooke,  who  followed  General  Kearny  from 
Santa  Fe  with  a  foi'ce  of  four  hundred  Mormon  volunteers,  had 
reached  the  neighborhood  of  that  place.  Having  applied  for 
my  discharge  from  the  battalion  as  soon  as  we  reached  Los 
Angeles,  I  received  it  on  the  29th,  on  which  day,  in  company 
wrth  Captain  Hastings,  I  set  out  on  my  return  to  San  Fran- 
cisco, designing  to  leave  that  place  on  the  first  favorable  oppor- 
tunity for  the  United  States. 


CHAPTER   XXXVI. 

Leave  Loe  Angeles  for  San  Francisco — Doa  Andre?  Pico — A  Califomiat. 
returning  from  the  wars — Domestic  life  at  a  rancbo—  Women  in  favor  ol 
peace — Hospitable  treatment — Fandango— Singular  custom — Arrive  ai 
Santa  Barbara — Lost  in  a  fog — Valley  of  the  Salinas — Californiaus  want 
ing  Yankee  wives — High  waters — Arrive  at  San  Francisco. 

We  left  Los  Angeles  late  in  the  afternoon  of  the  29  th  of 
Januaiy,  with  two  Indian  vaqueros,  on  miserable,  broken-down 
horses,  (the  best  we  could  obtain,)  and  encamped  at  the  deserted 
rancho  at  the  foot  of  Couenga  plain,  where  the  treaty  of  peaiie 
had  been  concluded.  After  we  had  been  here  some  time,  two 
Indians  came  to  the  house,  who  had  been  sent  by  the  oroprietor 
of  the  rancho  to  herd  the  cattle.  Ha-\ing  notnmg  to  eat  with 
us,  a  tempting  offer  prevailed  upon  the  Indians  to  milk  one  of 
the  cows ;  and  we  made  our  supper  and  our  breakfast  next 
morning  on  milk.  Both  of  our  Indian  vaqueros  deserted  in  the 
night,  carrying  with  tbem  sundry  articles  of  clothing  placea  in 
their  charge.  A  few  days  have  made  a  great  change  in  me 
appearance  of  the  country.  The  fresh  grass  is  now  several 
inches  in  height,  and  many  flowers  are  in  h.ootn.  itxe  usj  ia 
bright,  and  the  temperature  deUghtfoL 


418  DON  ANDRES   PICO — RKTURNINr;   WARRIOR. 

On  the  EOth  of  January,  leaving  the  mission  of  San  Fernanda 
on  oui-  right,  at  a  distance  of  eight  or  ten  miles,  we  followed  the 
usually  travelled  trail  next  to  the  hills,  on  the  western  side  of 
the  plain.  As  we  were  passing  near  a  rancho,  a  well-dressed 
Californian  rode  out  to  us  ;  and  after  examining  the  horses  of  our 
miserable  caballada,  politely  claimed  one  of  them  as  his  property. 
He  was  told  that  the  horse  was  drawn  from  the  pubhc  caba- 
llada, at  Los  Angeles,  and  could  not  be  given  up.  This  seemed 
to  satisfy  him.  After  some  further  conversation,  he  informed 
us  that  he  was  Don  Andres  Pico,  the  late  leader  and  general 
of  the  Californians.  The  expression  of  his  countenance  is  in- 
^elUgent  and  prepossessing ;  and  his  address  and  manners 
courteous  and  pleasing.  Shaking  hands  and  bidding  us  a  very 
earnest  adios,  he  put  spurs  to  his  horse  and  galloped  away. 

We  were  soon  after  overtaken  by  a  yoimg  Californian,  who 
appeared  at  first  rather  doubtful  whether  or  not  he  should  make 
our  acquamtance.  The  ice  being  broken,  however,  he  became 
very  loquacious  and  communicative.  He  stated  that  he  was 
returning  to  his  home,  near  Santa  Barbara,  from  the  wars,  in 
which  he  had  been  engaged  against  his  will.  The  language 
that  he  used  was,  that  he  with  many  others  of  his  acquaintances, 
were  forced  to  take  up  arms  by  the  leading  men  of  the  country. 
He  was  in  the  two  battles  of  the  8th  and  9th  of  January,  below 
Los  Angeles ;  and  he  desired  never  to  be  in  any  more  battles. 
He  was  heartily  rejoiced  that  there  was  peace,  and  hoped  that 
there  would  never  be  any  more  wars.  He  travelled  along  with 
us  until  afternoon,  wher  he  fell  behind,  and  we  did  not  see  him 
again  until  the  next  day. 

After  passing  two  or  three  deserted  houses,  we  reached  an 
inhabited  rancho,  situated  at  the  extremity  of  a  valley,  and  near 
a  narrow  gorge  in  the  hills,  about  four  o'clock,  and  our  jaded 
animals  performing  duty  with  reluctance,  we  determined  to  halt 
for  the  night,  if  the  prospect  of  obtaining  any  thing  to  eat  (of 
which  we  stood  in  much  need)  was  flattering.  Riding  up  to 
the  house,  a  small  adobe,  with  one  room,  and  a  shed  for  a 
kitclu'.n,  the  ranchero  and  the  ranchera  came  out  and  greeted  us 
witb  a  hearty  "  Buenos  tardea  Seflorea,  paisanoa,  aminos,"  shaking 


CAMFORNIAN   KITCflEJX.  419 

hands,  and  inviting  us  at  the  same  time  to  alight  and  remain  for 
the  night,  which  invitation  we  accepted.  The  kind-hearted 
ranchera  immediately  set  about  preparing  supper  for  us.  An 
Indian  muchacha  was  seated  at  the  metdte,  (hand-mill,) 
which  is  one  of  the  most  important  articles  of  the  Californian 
culinary  apparatus.  While  the  muchacha  ground,  or  rather 
crushed  the  wheat  between  the  stones,  the  ranchera,  with  a 
platter-shaped  basket,  cleansed  it  of  dust,  chaff,  and  all  impure 
particles,  by  tossing  the  grain  in  the  basket.  The  flour  being 
manufactured  and  sifted  through  a  cedazo,  or  coarse  sieve,  the 
labor  of  kneeding  the  dough  was  performed  by  the  muchacha. 
An  iron  plate  was  then  placed  over  a  rudely-constructed  fur- 
nace, and  the  dough  being  beaten  by  hand  into  tortillas,  (thin 
cakes,)  was  baked  upon  this.  What  would  American  house- 
wives say  to  such  a  system  as  this  ?  The  viands  being  pre- 
pared, they  were  set  out  upon  a  small  table,  at  which  we  were 
invited  to  seat  ourselves.  The  meal  consisted  of  tortillas,  stewed 
jerked- beef,  with  cAi/e  seasoning,  milk,  and  quesadillas,  or  cheese- 
cakes, green  and  tough  as  leather.  However,  our  appetites 
were  excellent,  and  we  enjoyed  the  repast  with  a  high  relish. 

Our  host  and  hostess  were  very  inquisitive  in  regard  to  the 
news  from  below,  and  as  to  what  would  be  the  effects  of  the 
conquest  of  the  country  by  the  Americans.  The  man  stated 
that  he  and  all  his  family  had  refused  to  join  in  the  late 
insvuTection.  We  told  them  that  all  was  peaceable  now ;  that 
there  would  be  no  more  wars  in  California ;  that  we  were  all 
Americans,  all  Californians, — hermanos,  hermanas,  amigos. 
They  expressed  their  delight  at  this  information  by  numerous 
exclamations. 

We  asked  the  woman  how  much  the  dress  which  she  wore, 
a  miserable  calico,  cost  her?  She  answered,  "  Sets  pesos,"  (six 
dollars.)  When  we  told  her  that  in  a  short  time,  under  the 
American  government,  she  could  purchase  as  good  a  one  "jcor 
un  peso,"  she  threw  up  her  hands  in  astonishment,  expressing 
by  her  features  at  the  same  time  the  most  xmbounded  delight 
Her  entire  wardrobe  was  soon  brought  forth,  and  the  price 
paid  for  every  article  named.    She  then  inquired  what  would  b« 


420  AMERICAN  POPULARITY — AMUSEMENTS. 

tLe  cost  of  similar  clothing  under  the  Ame.ican  go\  ernment; 
which  we  told  her.  As  we  replied,  exclamation  followed  upon 
exclamation,  expressive  of  her  surprise  and  pleasure,  and  the 
whole  was  concluded  with  "  Viva  los  Americanos — viva  los 
Ameticanos  /"  1  wore  a  large  coarse  woollen  pea-jacket,  which 
the  man  was  very  desirous  to  obtain,  offering  for  it  a  fine  horse. 
I  declined  the  trade. 

In  the  evening  several  of  the  brothers,  sisters,  and  bro- 
thers and  sisters-in-law  of  the  family  collected,  and  the  guitar 
and  violin,  which  were  suspended  from  a  beam  in  the  house, 
were  taken  down,  and  we  were  entertained  by  a  concert  of  in- 
strumental and  vocal  music.  Most  of  the  tunes  were  such  as 
are  performed  at  fandangos.  Some  plaintive  airs  were  played 
and  sung  with  much  pathos  and  expression,  the  whole  party 
joining  in  the  choruses.  Although  invited  to  occupy  the  only 
room  in  the  house,  we  decUned  it,  and  spread  our  blankets  or 
the  outside. 

The  next  morning  (January  31st)  when  we  woke  the  sxxn  was 
shining  bright  and  warm,  and  the  birds  were  singing  gayly  in 
the  grove  of  evergreen  oaks  near  the  house.  Ha\'ing  made 
ready  to  resume  our  journey,  as  delicately  as  possible  we  of- 
fered our  kind  hostess  compensation  for  the  trouble  we  had 
given  her,  which  she  declined,  saying,  that  although  they  were 
not  rich,  they  nevertheless  had  enough  and  to  spare.  We 
however  insisted,  and  she  finally  accepted,  with  the  condition 
that  we  would  also  accept  of  some  of  her  quesadillas  and  tor- 
tillas to  carry  along  with  us.  The  ranchero  mounted  his  horse 
and  rode  witli  us  three  or  four  miles,  to  place  us  on  the  right 
trail,  when,  after  inviting  us  very  earnestly  to  call  and  see  him 
again,  and  bidding  us  an  affectionate  adios,  he  galloped  away. 

Travelling  over  a  hilly  country  and  passing  the  ruins  of  several 
deseiled  ranclios,  the  grounds  surrounding  which  were  strewn 
with  the  bones  of  slaughtered  cattle,  we  reached,  about  five 
o'clock,  1'.  M.,  a  cluster  of  houses  in  the  valley  of  Santa  Clara 
river,  ten  miles  east  of  the  mission  of  San  Buenaventura.  Here 
we  stopped  at  the  house  of  a  man  named  Sanchez.  Our  arri- 
ral  was  thouglit  '.o  be  wortliy  of  notice,  and  it  vras  accoidingly 


SINGULAR  CUSTOM.  421 

celebrated  in  the  evening  by  a  fandango  given  at  one  of  the 
houses,  to  which  we  were  invited.  The  company,  to  the  number 
ot'  some  thirtj''  or  forty  persons,  young  and  old,  were  assembled 
in  the  largest  room  of  the  house,  the  floor  being  hard  clay. 
The  only  furniture  contained  in  the  room  was  a  bed  and  some 
benches,  upon  which  the  company  seated  themselves  when  not 
engaged  in  dancing. 

Among  the  senoritas  assembled,  were  two  daughters  of  an 
American  named  Cliapman,  who  has  been  a  resident  of  the 
country  for  many  years.  They  were  fair-skinned,  and  might  be 
called  handsome.  An  elder  and  married  sister  was  also  pres- 
ent. They  called  themselves  Americans,  although  they  did 
not  speak  our  language,  and  seemed  to  be  more  proud  of  their 
American  than  their  Spanish  blood. 

A  singular  custom  prevails  at  these  fandangos.  It  is  this : 
during  the  intervals  between  the  waltzes,  quadrilles,  and  other 
dances,  when  the  company  is  seated,  a  young  lady  takes  the 
floor  solus,  and  after  showing  off"  her  graces  for  sreneral  obser- 
vation  a  few  minutes,  she  approaches  any  gentleman  she  may 
select  and  performs  a  variety  of  pirouettes  and  otlier  Terpsi- 
chorean  movements  before  him  for  his  especial  amusement  and 
admiration,  until  he  places  on  her  head  his  hat  or  cap,  as  the 
case  may  be,  when  she  dances  away  with  it.  The  hat  or  cap 
has  afterwards  to  be  redeemed  by  some  present,  and  this  usually 
k  in  money.  Not  dancing  ourselves,  we  were  favored  with 
numerous  special  exhibitions  of  this  kind,  the  cost  of  each  of 
which  was  un  jhiso.  With  a  long  journey  before  us,  and  with 
purses  in  a  nearly  collapsed  condition,  the  drafts  upon  us  became 
so  frequent,  that  at  an  early  hour,  under  a  plea  of  fatigue  and 
want  of  rest,  we  thought  it  prudent  to  beat  a  retreat,  leanng 
our  fair  and  partial  fandangueras  to  bestow  their  favors  upon 
others  better  able  to  bear  them.  The  motions  of  the  Califor 
nian  females  of  all  classes  in  the  dance  are  highly  graceful 
The  waltz  is  their  favorite  measure,  and  in  this  they  appeal  ts 
excel  as  much  as  the  men  do  in  horsemanship.  During  the. 
progress  of  the  dance,  tho  males  and  females  improvise  dog- 
gerel rhymes  complimentary  of  the  personal  beauties,  and  grace* 

86 


422  A  NIGHT  S  LODGING. 

of  those  ■whom  they  admire,  or  expressive  of  their  love  and  d«- 
voiion,  which  are  chanted  with  ihe  music  of  the  instruments, 
and  the  whole  company  join  in  the  general  chorus  at  the  end 
of  each  verse.    The  din  of  voices  is  sometimes  almost  deafening. 

Our  host  accompanied  us  to  our  lodgings  on  the  opposite 
Bide  of  the  way.  Beds  were  spread  down  under  the  small  porch 
outside,  and  we  laid  our  bodies  upon  them,  but  not  to  sleep, 
for  the  noise  of  the  fandango  dancers  kept  us  awake  until  broad 
daylight,  at  which  time  it  broke  up. 

Hiring  fresh  horses  here,  and  a  vaquero  to  drive  our  tired 
animals  after  us,  we  started  about  9  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and 
passing  through  San  Buenaventura,  reached  Santa  Barbara,  45 
miles,  a  little  after  two  in  the  afternoon.  We  stopped  at  the 
house  of  Mr.  Sparks,  who  received  us  with  genuine  hospital- 
ity. Santa  Barbara  presented  a  more  lively  appearance  than 
when  we  passed  here  on  our  way  down,  most  of  its  population 
having  returned  to  their  homes.  Procuring  fresh  but  miserably 
poor  horses,  we  resumed  our  journey  on  the  afternoon  of  tlie  2d 
of  February,  and  encamped  at  tlie  rancho  of  Dr.  Den,  situated 
on  the  plain  of  Santa  Barbara,  near  the  seashore.  The  soil  of  this 
plain  is  of  the  most  fertile  composition.  The  fresh  grass  is  now 
six  or  eight  inches  high,  and  the  varieties  are  numerous.  Many 
of  the  early  flowers  are  in  bloom.  I  noticed  a  large  wheat-field 
near  the  house,  and  its  appearance  was  such  as  to  promise  a 
lich  harvest. 

The  rain  fell  heavily  on  the  morning  of  the  3d,  but  continu- 
ing our  journey  we  crossed  tlie  St.  Ynes  mountain,  and  jtass- 
ing  the  mission  by  that  name,  reached  the  rancho  of  Mr.  Faxon 
after  dark,  where  we  halted  for  the  night.  Around  the  mis- 
sion of  St.  Ynes  I  noticed,  as  we  passed,  immense  quantities 
of  cattle-bones  thickly  strewn  in  all  directions.  Acres  of  ground 
were  white  with  these  remains  of  the  inamense  hei'ds  belonging 
to  this  mission  in  the  days  of  its  prosperity,  slaughtered  for 
their  hides  and  tallow.  We  met  two  or  three  elegantly-dres.sed 
(Lilifornians  to-day,  who  accosted  us  with  much  civility  and  ap- 
parent friendliness. 

Mr.  Faxon  is  an  Englisl^man  by  birth,  and  has  resided  in 


»««•  Oir« MR.  BRANCH.  4X9 

Cafifornia  about  thirty  \ft}ir<^  He  is  married  to  h  Californian 
lacj^.  and  has  a  faniilv  of  Tnf»«r>Ninmfl:  and  beautiful  childrwi.  A 
large  portion  of  the  land  belonging  to  his  rancho  is  admirably 
adapted  to  agriculture,  and  he  raises  crops  of  com  and  vege- 
tables as  well  as  wheat  without  irrigation.  He  informed  me 
that  the  yield  of  wheat  on  his  rancho  was  fully  seventy  bushels 
to  the  acre.  Mr.  F.  showed  me  specimens  of  lead  ore  from 
which  he  moulds  his  bullets,  taken  from  an  inexhaustible  mine 
in  the  Tular  valley,  some  fifty  miles  distant  from  this.  It  is  cer- 
tainly the  richest  ore  that  I  have  ever  seen,  appearing  almost 
like  the  pure  metal.  He  also  showed  me  a  caustic  alkali,  pro- 
duced by  burning  a  plant  or  shrub  which  grows  in  great  abun- 
dance in  the  Tular  valley.  This  substance  is  used  by  him  in 
the  manufacture  of  soap. 

About  noon  on  the  4th,  we  halted  at  the  rancho  of  Captain 
Dana,  where  we  procured  fresh  horses,  leaving  our  wretchedly 
lean  and  tired  animals,  and  proceeding  on,  stopped  for  the  night 
at  the  rancho  of  Mr.  Branch,  an  intelligent  American,  origin- 
ally from  the  state  of  New  York,  who  has  been  settled  in  the 
country  a  number  of  years.  His  rancho  is  situated  on  what  is 
called  the  arroyo  grande,  a  small  stream  which  empties  into 
the  Pacific  some  two  or  three  miles  from  the  house.  The 
house  is  new,  and  constructed  after  American  models  of  farm- 
bouses,  with  neat  and  comfortable  apartments,  chimneys  and 
fireplaces.  The  arable  lands  here  are  finely  adapted  to  the 
culture  of  maize,  wheat,  and  potatoes. 

Our  horses  straying,  it  was  twelve  o'clock  on  the  5th  before 
we  found  them.  The  rain  had  fallen  steadily  and  heavily  all 
night,  and  during  the  forenoon,  and  was  poiiring  down  when 
we  started.  We  passed  through  the  mission  of  San  Luis  Obis- 
po just  before  sunset,  intending  to  halt  at  a  rancho  about  three 
miles  distant  in  a  Canada.  But  the  storm  increasing  in  strength, 
it  became  suddenly  so  dark  in  the  mountain-gorge,  that  wft 
aould  not  distinguish  the  trail ;  and  after  wandeiing  about  some 
time,  vainly  attempting  to  find  tlie  house,  we  were  compelled  tc 
bivouac,  wet  to  our  skins,  without  fire  or  shelter,  and  the  raio 
pouring  down  in  torrents. 


424  EARLY  l'LCWERS--SAN  LORENZO. 

The  uext  mornmg,  (Feb.  6,)  in  hunting  up  our  loose  horses, 
we  discovered  thp  house  about  half  a  mile  distant  from  our 
camp.  Continuing  ou.r  journey,  we  halted  about  nine  o'clock 
at  a  rancho  near  the  ruins  of  Santa  Margarita.  A  solitary  Indian 
was  the  only  occupant  of  the  house,  and  only  inhabitant  of  the 
place ;  and  he  could  furnish  us  with  no  food.  Passing  two  or 
three  other  deserted  ranchos,  we  reached  the  house  of  a  Mexi- 
can about  one  o'clock,  where  we  obtained  a  meal  of  fried  eggs 
and  tortillas,  after  having  been  without  food  thirLy  hours.  Late 
in  the  afternoon  we  arrived  at  the  mission  of  San  Miguel,  now 
occupied  by  an  Englishman  named  Reed,  liis  mestiza  wife,  and 
one  chUd,  with  two  or  three  Indian  vaqueros.  Crossing  the 
Salinas  in  the  morning,  (Feb.  7,)  we  continued  down  its  eastern 
side,  and  encamped  in  a  wide  bottom  under  a  large  live-oak. 
A  quesadilla  was  all  we  had  to  eat.  This  was  divided,  one  half 
being  reserved  for  breakfast.  The  fresh  vegetation  has  so  much 
changed  the  face  of  the  countr}^  on  this  river  since  we  passed 
along  here  in  December,  that  I  scarcely  recognise  it.  The  grass 
is  six  or  eight  inches  high  in  the  bottom,  the  blades  standing  so 
thick  as  to  present  a  matted  appearance,  and  the  hills  are  biil- 
Jiant  with  flowers — pink,  purple,  blue,  and  yellow. 

On  the  8th  we  continued  down  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Sali- 
nas, passing  through  several  large  and  fertile  bottoms,  and 
reachino-  tlie  rancho  of  San  Lorenzo  about  twelve  o'clock.  This 
rancho,  as  we  learned  from  the  proprietors,  is  owned  by  two 
,  bachelor  brothers,  one  of  whom  told  me  that  he  had  not  been 
off  his  lands  but  once  or  twice  for  several  years.  Large  herds 
of  fat  cattle  and  horses  were  grazing  upon  the  luxuiiant  grasses 
of  the  plain,  and  there  were  several  extensive  enclosures  sowed 
in  wheat,  wliich  presented  all  the  indications  of  an  abundant 
harvest.  But  with  all  these  natural  resources  surrounding  him, 
the  elder  brother  told  us  that  he  had  nothing  to  eat  in  his  house 
but  fresh  beef.  A  quantity  of  the  choice  pieces  of  a  fat  beef 
was  roisterl  by  an  Indian  boy,  which  we  enjoyed  with  all  the 
relish  of  liuiigry  men.  Our  host,  a  gentleman  of  intelligence 
and  politeness,  made  apology  after  apology  for  his  rude  style  of 
living,  a  principal  excuse  being  tint  lie  had  no  wife.     He  in- 


YANKEE  WOMEN  WANTED.  425 

quired,  with  apparent  earnestness,  if  we  could  not  send  him  two 
pretty,  accomplished,  and  capable  American  women,  whom 
they  could  marry ;  and  then  they  would  build  a  fine  house, 
have  bread,  butter,  cheese,  and  all  the  delicacies,  luxuries,  and 
elegancies  of  life  in  abundance.  He  appeared  to  be  well  pleased 
with  the  conquest  of  the  country  by  the  Americans,  and  de- 
skous  that  they  should  not  give  it  up.  When  we  resumed  our 
journey  in  the  afternoon,  he  rode  with  us  four  or  five  miles  to 
show  us  the  waj'' ;  and  on  taking  his  leave,  invited  us  to  return 
again,  when  he  said  he  hoped  his  accommodations  would  be 
much  improved.  Riding  15  miles,  we  halted  at  a  tule-cabin, 
where  we  remained  until  two  o'clock  in  the  morning,  when,  the 
moon  shining  brightly,  we  mounted  our  horses  and  continued 
our  journey. 

We  reached  the  Monterey  road  just  at  daylight.  My  inten- 
tion had  been  to  visit  Monterey  ;  but  the  Salinas  being  unford- 
able,  and  there  being  no  ferry,  it  was  not  possible  to  do  it 
without  swimming  the  river,  which  I  did  not  feel  inclined  to  do. 
Monterey  is  situated  on  the  bay  by  that  name,  about  90  miles 
by  water  south  of  San  Francisco.  The  bay  affords  a  good  an- 
chorage and  landing  in  calm  weather,  being  exposed  only  to 
the  northers,  which  blow  violently.  The  town  contains  about 
1,500  inhabitants,  and  is  rapidly  increasing  in  wealth  and  popu- 
lation. Aniving  at  the  rancho  of  Don  Joaquin  Gomez,  we  found 
no  one  but  a  mestiza  servant  at  home,  and  could  obtain  nothing 
to  eat  but  a  qucsadilla.  All  the  streams,  large  and  small,  are 
much  swollen  by  late  heavy  rains,  and  the  travelling  is  conse- 
quently very  laborious  and  difficult.  Resting  our  horses  a  short 
time,  we  crossed  the  mountains,  and  reached  the  mission  of  San 
Juan  Bautista  about  noon. 

At  San  Juan  we  met  with  Messrs.  Grayson,  Boggs,  and  a 
party  of  volunteers  returning  from  Monterey  to  San  Francisco, 
havinci-  been  discharged  since  the  suppression  of  the  rebellion  in 
this  part  of  Cahfornia,  headed  by  Francisco  Sanchez.  Here  we 
learned,  for  the  first  time,  the  arrival  at  Monterey  of  Commo- 
dore Shubrick  in  the  ship  Independence,  and  of  the  Lexington 
irth  Captain  Tompkins's  company  of  artillery,  and  freighted 

36- 


486  ARRIVE  AT  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

otherwise  with  munitions,  storeS;  and  tools  necessary  to*  the 
erection  and  defence  of  durable  fortifications  at  Monterey  and 
San  Francisco. 

Seven  or  eight  miles  beyond  San  Juan,  we  found  that  the 
waters  of  the  arroyo  had  risen  so  as  to  inundate  a  wide  valley 
which  we  were  compelled  to  cross.  After  making  several  inef- 
fectual attempts  to  reach  the  opposite  side,  wading  through  the 
water,  and  sometimes  falling  into  deep  holes  from  which  it  was 
difficult  for  either  men  or  horses  to  extricate  themselves,  we  en- 
camped for  the  night  on  a  small  elevation  in  the  valley,  entirel} 
surrounded  by  water.  Our  condition  was  miserable  enough. 
Tired,  wet,  and  hungry,  we  laid  down  for  the  night  on  the  damp 
ground. 

The  next  day,  (Feb.  10,)  about  eleven  o'clock,  we  succeeded 
in  finding  a  ford  across  the  valley  and  stream,  and  procured 
dinner  at  a  soap-factory  on  the  opposite  side,  belonging  to  T.  0. 
Larkin,  Esq.  Continuing  on,  we  encamped  at  a  rancho  occu- 
pied by  an  Englishman  as  mayor  domo.  He  was  very  glad  to 
see  us,  and  treated  us  with  unbounded  hospitality,  furnishing  a 
superabundance  of  beef  and  frijoles  for  our  consiimption.  On 
the  11th,  about  three  p.  m.,  we  arrived  at  the  Pueblo  de  San 
Jose ;  and  finding  there  a  launch  employed  by  Messrs.  Howard 
&  Melius  in  collecting  hides,  bound  for  San  Francisco,  we  em- 
barked in  her,  and  on  the  morning  of  the  13th,  arrived  at 
that  place.  We  found  lying  here  the  U.  S.  sloop  Warren, 
and  Lieutenant  Radford  politely  furnished  us  with  a  boat  to 
land.  In  the  afternoon  the  Cyane..  CommonJer  Dupont,  with 
Gen.  Keainy  on  board,  and  the  ?i.ore- s/iip  Erie,  with  Col.  Mason 
on  board,  arrived  in  the  harbor.  Col.  Mason  is  from  the  U.  States 
direct,  via  Panama,  "nd  brings  late  and  interesting  intelligence. 

The  Cyane  and  Warren  have  just  returned  from  a  cruise  on 
the  southern  P.icific  coast  of  Mexico.  The  town  of  Guymas 
hiid  bc<!n  taken  by  bombardment.  The  Cyane  had  captured, 
during  her  cruise,  fourteen  prizes,  besides  several  guns  at  San 
Bias.  The  boats  of  the  Warren,  xuider  the  command  of  Lieut. 
Radford,  peiformed  the  gallant  feat  of  cutting  out  of  the  harbor 
of  Mazatlan,  the  Mexican  schooner  Malek  Abd  ;L 


PROGRESS  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO.  427 

Landing  in  San  Francisco  I  found  my  wardrobe  which  I  had 
deposited  in  the  care  of  Capt.  Leidesdorff ;  and  the  first  time 
for  nearly  five  months  dressed  myself  in  a  civilized  costume. 
Having  been  during  that  time  almost  constantly  in  motion,  and  ex- 
posed to  many  hardships  and  privations,  it  was,  as  may  be  sup- 
posed, no  small  satisfaction  to  find  once  more  a  place  where  I 
could  repose  for  a  short  time  at  least. 


CHAPTER    XXXVII. 

Progress  of  the  town  of  San  Francisco — Capt  Dupont — Gen.  Kearuy— 
The  presidio — Appointed  Alcalde — Gen.  Kearny's  proclamation — Arri- 
val of  Col.  Stevenson's  regimeu' —Horse-thief  Indians — Administration 
of  justice  in  California — Sale  of  lots  in  San  Francisco. 

Wherever  the  Anglo-Saxon  race  plant  themselves,  progress 
is  certain  to  be  displayed  in  some  form  or  other.  Such  is  their 
"  go-ahead  energy,  that  things  cannot  stand  still  where  they 
are,  whatever  may  be  the  circumstances  surrounding  them. 
Notwithstanding  the  wars  and  insurrections,  I  found  the  town 
of  San  Francisco,  on  my  arrival  here,  visibly  improved.  An 
American  population  had  flowed  into  it ;  lots,  which  heretofore 
have  been  considered  almost  valueless,  were  selling  at  high 
prices  \  new  houses  had  been  built,  and  were  in  progress  ;  new 
commei  3ial  houses  had  been  established ;  hotels  had  been 
opened  for  the  accommodation  of  the  travelling  and  business 
public  ;  and  the  publication  of  a  newspaper  had  been  com- 
menced. The  little  \'illage  of  two  hundred  souls,  when  I 
arrived  here  in  September  last,  is  fast  becoming  a  town  of  im- 
portance. Ships  freighted  with  full  cargoes  are  entering  the 
port,  and  landing  tlieir  merchandise  to  be  disposed  of  at  whole- 
sale and  retail  on  shore,  instead  of  ihe  former  mode  of  vending 
them  afloat  in  the  harbor.  There  is  a  prevailing  air  of  activity, 
enterprise,  and  energy ;  and  men,  in  view  of  the  advantageous 
position  of  the  town  for  commerce,  are  making  large  calculations 


428  CAPT.  DtJPONT — GEN.  KBARNT. 

upon  the  future  ;  calculations  which   I  believe  will  be  fully 

realized. 

On  the  15th  I  dined  on  board  the  sloop-of-war  Cyane,  with 
Commander  Dupont,  to  whom  I  had  the  good  fortune  to  be  the 
bearer  from  home  of  a  letter  of  introduction.  I  say  "  good 
fortime,"  because  I  conceive  it  to  be  one  of  the  greatest  of  social 
blessings,  as  well  as  pleasures,  to  be  made  acquainted  with  a 
truly  upright  and  honorable  man, — one  whose  integrity  never 
bends  to  wrongful  or  pusillanimous  expediency ; — one  who,  armed 
intellectually  with  the  panoply  of  justice,  has  courage  to  sustain 
it  under  any  and  all  circumstances ; — one  whose  ambition  is,  in 
a  pubHc  capacity,  to  serve  his  country,  and  not  to  serve  him- 
self ; — one  who  waits  for  his  coimtry  to  judge  of  his  acts,  and  if 
worthy,  to  place  the  laurel  wi-eath  upon  his  head,  disdaining  a 
self-wrought  and  self-assumed  coronal.  Capt.  Dupont  is  a  na- 
tive of  Delaware  ;  and  that  gallant  and  patriotic  state  should 
feel  proud  of  such  a  son.  He  is  one  of  whom  all  men,  on  sea 
or  on  land,  with  whom  his  duties  as  an  oflScer  or  a  citizen  of 
our  republic  brings  him  in  contact,  speak  well ;  and  whose  pri- 
vate mtues,  as  well  as  professional  merits,  are  deserving  of  the 
warmest  admiration  and  the  highest  honors. 

Although  I  have  long  known  Gen.  S.  W.  Kearny  from 
reputation,  and  saw  him  at  Los  Angeles,  I  was  here  introduced 
to  him  for  the  first  time.  Gen.  K.  is  a  man  rising  fift^'  years  of 
age.  His  height  is  about  five  feet  ten  or  eleven  inches.  His 
figure  is  all  that  is  required  by  symmetry.  His  features  are 
regular,  almost  Grecian  ;  his  eye  is  blue,  and  has  an  cagle-hke 
expression,  when  excited  by  stern  or  angry  emotion  ;  but  in 
ordinary  social  intercourse,  the  whole  expression  of  his  counte- 
nance is  mild  and  pleasing,  and  his  manners  and  conversation 
are  unaffected,  urbane,  and  conciliatory,  without  the  slightest 
exhibition  of  vanity  or  egotism.  He  appears  the  cool,  brave, 
and  energetic  soldier  ;  the  strict  disciplinarian,  without  tyranny  ; 
the  man,  in  short,  detcrmnied  to  perform  his  duty,  in  what- 
ever situation  he  ma)-  be  placed,  leaving  consequences  to  fol- 
low in  their  natural  course.  Those,  my  first  impressions,  were 
fully  confirmed   by   subsequent  intercourse,    in  situations  and 


THE  PRESIDIO FORT  42fi 

under  circumstances,  which,  by  experience,  I  have  found  an 
unfailing  alembic  for  the  trial  of  cliaracter, — a  crucible  wherein, 
if  the  metal  be  impure,  the  drossy  substances  are  sure  to  display 
themselves.  It  is  not  my  province  to  extol  or  pronounce  judg- 
ment upon  his  acts  ;  they  are  a  part  of  the  military  and  civil 
history  of  our  country ;  and  as  such  will  be  applauded  or  con- 
demned, according  to  the  estimate  that  may  be  placed  upon 
them.  But  I  may  be  allowed  to  express  the  opinion,  that  no 
man,  placed  under  the  same  circumstances,  ever  aimed  to  per- 
form his  duty  with  more  uprightness  and  more  fidelity  to  the 
interests  and  honor  of  his  country ;  or  who,  to  shed  lustre  upon 
his  coimtry,  ever  braved  greater  dangers,  or  endured  more 
hardships  and  privations,  and  all  without  vaunting  his  perform- 
ances and  sacrifices. 

On  the  16th,  in  company  of  Gen.  Kearny,  Capt.  Turner,  and 
Lieuts.  Warner  and  Hallock,  of  the  U.  S.  Engineer  Corps,  I 
rode  to  the  Presidio  of  San  Francisco,  and  the  old  fortification 
at  the  mouth  of  the  bay.  The  presidio  is  about  three  miles 
from  the  town,  and  consists  of  several  blocks  of  adobe  buildings, 
covered  with  tiles.  The  walls  of  most  of  the  buildings  are 
crumbling  for  the  want  of  care  in  protecting  them  from  the 
annual  rains  ;  and  vnthout  this  care  they  will  soon  become  heaps 
of  mud.  The  fort  is  erected  upon  a  commanding  position,  about 
a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  entrance  to  the  bay.  Its  walls  are 
substantially  constructed  of  burnt  brick,  and  are  of  sufficient 
thickness  and  strength  to  resist  heavy  battering.  There  are 
aine  or  ten  embrazifes.  Like  every  thing  else  in  the  country 
belonging  to  the  public,  the  foi't  is  fast  falling  into  ruins.  There 
nas  been  no  garrison  here  for  several  years ;  the  guns  are  dis- 
mounted, and  half  decomposed  by  exposure  to  the  weather,  and 
from  want  of  care.     Some  of  them  have  sunk  into  the  groimd. 

On  the  20th  I  was  waited  upon  by  Gen.  Kearny,  and  re- 
quested to  accept  the  office  of  alcalde,  or  chief  magistrate  of  the 
district  of  San  Francisco.  There  being  no  opportunity  of  re- 
turning to  the  United  States  immediately,  I  accepted  of  the 
proposed  appointment,  and  on  the  22d  was  sworn  into  office ; 
my  predecessor,  Lieut.   W.  A.  Bartlett,  of  the  navy,  being 


430  SALUTB BIRTHDAY  OF  WASIIINGTOH. 

ordered  to  his  ship,  by  the  commanding  officer  of  the  squad-' 
ron 

The  annual  salute  in  celebration  of  the  birthday  of  the  immor- 
tal and  illustrious  founder  of  our  republic,  required  by  law  from 
all  the  ships  of  the  na\'7  in  commission,  in  whatever  part  of  the 
world  they  may  be  at  the  time,  strikes  us  more  forcibly  wlien 
in  a  far-off  country,  as  being  a  beautifid  and  appropriate  tribute 
to  the  unapproachable  virtues  and  heroism  of  that  great  bone- 
factor  of  the  human  race,  than  when  we  are  nearer  home,  or 
upon  our  own  soil.  The  U.  S.  ships  in  the  harbor,  at  12 
o'clock  on  the  2 2d,  each  fired  a  national  salute  ;  and  the  day 
being  calm  and  beautiful,  the  reports  bounded  from  hill  (o  hUl, 
and  were  echoed  and  re-echoed  imtil  the  sound  died  away, 
apparently,  in  the  distant  gorges  of  the  Sierra  Nfi^ada.  This 
was  a  voice  from  the  soul  of  Washington,  speaking  in  majestic 
and  thunder-tones  to  the  green  and  flowery  valleys,  the  gentle 
hills  and  lofty  mountains  of  California,  and  o.onsecrating  them  as 
the  future  abode  of  millions  upon  millions  of  the  sons  of  liberty. 
The  merchant  and  whale  ships  lying  at  anchor,  catching  the  en- 
thusiasm, joined  in  the  salute  ;  and  for  a  time  the  harbor  and  bay 
in  front  of  the  town  were  enveloped  in  clouds  of  gunpowder  smoke. 

General  Kearny  left  San  Francisco,  in  the  frigate  Savannah, 
Captain  Mervine,  on  the  23d,  for  Monterey,  and  soon  after  his 
arrival  at  that  place,  the  following  circular  and  proclamation 
were  issued : 

CIRCULAR. 
To  nil  whom  it  may  concern,  he  it  known — 

That  the  President  of  the  United  States,  desirous  to  give  and  secure  t« 
the  people  of  California  a  share  of  the  good  government  and  happy  civil 
organization  enjoyed  by  the  people  of  the  United  States,  and  to  protect 
thein  at  the  same  time  from  tlie  attacks  of  foreign  foes,  and  from  internal 
coniinotions — has  invested  the  undersigned  vvitii  separate  and  distinct 
powers,  civil  and  military  ;  a  cordial  co-operation  in  the  exorcise  of  which, 
it  is  hoped  and  helievod,  will  have  the  happy  results  desired. 

To  the  commander-in-chief  of  the  naval  forces  the  President  has  as- 
signed  the  regulation  of  the  import  trade — the  conditions  on  which  vesseii 
of  all  nations,  our  own  as  well  as  foreign,  may  be  admitted  into  the  pui-ta 
of  th)  territory,  and  the  cslablislimenl  of  all  port  regulations. 


PROCLAMATION    OF  GEN.  KEARNT.  431 

To  the  commanding  military  officer  the  President  has  assigned  the  direc- 
tion of  the  operations  on  land,  and  has  invested  him  with  administrativ* 
funciions  of  government  over  the  people  and  territory  occupied  by  the  forces 
of  the  United  States. 

Done  at  Monterey,  capital  of  California,  this  1st  day  of  March,  a.  d 
1847 

W    BRANFORD  SHUBRICK, 

Commander-in-Chief  of  the  Nana    farces 
S.  W.  KEARNY,  Brig.  Gen.  U.  S.  A., 

and  Governor  of  California 


PROCLAMATION  TO  THE  PEOPLE  OF  CALIFORNIA. 

The  President  of  the  United  States  having  instructed  the  undersigned  to 
take  charge  of  the  civil  government  of  California,  he  enters  upon  his  duties 
with  an  ardent  desire  to  promote,  as  far  as  he  is  able,  the  interests  of  the 
country  and  the  welfare  of  its  inhabitants. 

The  undersigned  has  instructions  from  the  President  to  respect  and  pro- 
tect the  religious  institutions  of  California,  and  to  see  that  the  religious 
rights  of  the  people  are  in  the  amplest  manner  preserved  to  them,  the 
constitution  of  the  United  States  allowing  every  man  to  worship  his  Creator 
in  such  a  manner  as  his  own  conscience  may  dictate  to  him. 

The  undersigned  is  also  instructed  to  protect  the  persons  aud  property  of 
the  quiet  and  peaceable  inhabitants  of  the  country  against  all  or  any  of 
their  enemies,  whether  from  abroad  or  at  home  ;  and  when  he  now  assures 
the  Californians  that  it  will  be  his  duty  and  his  pleasure  to  comply  with 
those  instructions,  he  calls  upon  them  all  to  exert  themselves  in  preserving 
order  and  tranquillity,  in  promoting  harmony  and  concord,  and  in  maintain* 
iug  the  authority  aud  efficiency  of  the  laws. 

It  is  the  wish  and  design  of  the  United  States  to  provide  for  California, 
with  the  least  possibls  delay,  a  free  government,  similar  to  those  in  her 
other  territories ;  and  the  people  will  soon  be  called  upon  to  exercise  their 
rights  as  freemen,  in  electing  their  own  representatives,  to  make  such  laws 
as  may  be  deemed  best  for  their  interest  and  welfare.  But  until  this  can 
be  done,  the  laws  now  in  existence  and  not  in  conflict  with  the  constitution 
of  the  United  States,  will  be  continued  until  changed  by  competent  authori- 
ty ;  aud  those  persons  who  hold  office  will  continue  in  the  same  for  the 
present,  provided  they  swear  to  support  that  constitution,  and  to  faithfully 
perform  their  duty. 

The  undersigned  hereby  absolves  all  the  inhabitants  of  California  from 
any  further  allegiance  to  the  republic  of  Mexico,  and  will  consider  them  as 
citizens  of  the  United  States ;  those  who  remain  quiet  and  poaceuble  will 
be  respected  in  their  rights  and       otected  in   them.      Should   any  take  up 


132  OPINIONS  OF  THE  PEOPLE 

anna  against,  or  oppose  the  government  of  this  territory,  or  Instigate  other? 
to  do  so,  they  will  be  considered  as  enemies,  and  treated  accordingly. 

When  Mexico  forced  a  war  upon  the  United  States,  time  did  not  permit 
the  latter  to  invite  the  Califoruians  as  friends  to  join  her  standard,  but  com- 
pelled her  to  take  possession  of  the  country  to  prevent  any  European  povvei 
from  seizing  upon  it,  and  in  doing  so,  some  excesses  and  unauthorized  acts 
were  no  doubt  committed  by  persoi*  employed  in  the  service  of  the  United 
States,  by  which  a  few  of  the  inhabitants  have  met  with  a  loss  of  property  ; 
Buch  losses  will  be  duly  investigated,  and  those  entitled  to  remuneration 
will  receive  it. 

California  has  for  many  years  suffered  greatly  from  domestic  troubles : 
civil  wars  have  been  the  poisoned  fountains  which  have  sent  forth  trouble 
and  pestilence  over  her  beautiful  land.  Now  those  fountains  are  dried  up  ; 
the  star-spangled  banner  floats  over  California,  and  as  long  as  the  sun  con- 
tinues to  shine  upon  her,  so  long  will  it  float  there,  over  the  natives  of  the 
land,  as  well  as  otliers  who  have  found  a  home  in  her  bosom ;  and  under 
it  agriculture  must  improve  and  the  arts  and  sciences  flourish,  as  seed  in  a 
rich  and  fertile  soil. 

The  Americans  and  Califoruians  are  now  but  one  people ;  let  us  cherish 
one  wish,  one  liepe,  and  let  that  be  for  the  peace  and  quiet  of  our  country 
Let  us,  as  a  band  of  brothers,  unite  and  emulate  each  other  in  our  exertions 
to  benefit  and  improve  tliis  our  beautiful,  and  which  soon  must  be  our  happy 
and  prosperous  home. 

Done  at  Monterey,  capital  of  California,  this  first  day  of  March,  a.  d 
1847,  and  in  the  seventy-first  year  of  independence  of  the  United  States. 
S.  VV.  KEARNY,  Brig.  Gen.  U.  S.  A., 

and  Governor  of  California. 

The  proclamation  of  General  Kearny  gave  great  satisfactiou 
to  the  native  as  well  as  the  emigrant  population  of  the  coimtry. 
Several  of  the  alcaldes  of  the  district  of  my  jurisdiction,  as  well 
as  private  individuals,  (natives  of  the  country,)  expressed  by 
letter  and  orally,  their  approbation  of  the  sentiments  of  the 
proclamation  in  the  warmest  terms.  They  said  that  they  were 
heartily  willing  to  become  Americans  upon  these  terms,  and 
hoped  that  there  would  be  the  least  possible  delay  in  ad- 
mitting them  to  the  rights  of  American  citizenship.  There 
was  a  general  expectation  among  natives  as  well  as  foreigners, 
that  a  lopresciitjilivc  form  of  territori;il  government  would  be 
immediately  established  by  General  Kearny.  The  reason  why 
this  was  not  done,  is  explained  by  the  recent  publication  of 
General  Scott's  letter  to    General   Kearny,    dated  Novembei 


HORSB-TlilEF    INDIANS.  433 

3d,  1846,  of  wlich  Colonel  Mason  was  the  bearer,  he  having 
left  the  United  States  on  the  7th  of  November.  In  this  letter 
General  Scott  says : — 

"  As  a  guide  to  the  civil  governor  of  Upper  California,  in  our 
lauds,  see  the  letter  of  June  the  3d,  (last,)  addressed  to  you  by 
the  Secretary  of  War.  You  will  not,  however,  formally  declare 
the  province  to  be  annexed.  Permanent  incorporation  of  the 
territory  must  depend  on  the  government  of  the  United  States. 

"  After  occupybg  with  our  forces  all  necessary  points  in 
Upper  California,  and  establishing  a  temporary  civil  govern- 
ment therein,  as  well  as  assuring  youi'self  of  its  internal  tran- 
quillity, and  the  absence  of  any  danger  of  reconquest  on  the  part 
of  Mexico,  you  may  charge  Col.  Mason,  United  States  first 
dragoons,  the  bearer  of  this  open  letter,  or  land  officer  next  in 
rank  to  your  own,  with  your  several  duties,  and  return  yourself, 
with  a  sufficient  escort  of  troops,  to  St.  Louis,  Missouri ;  but  the 
body  of  the  United  States  dragoons  that  accompanied  you  to 
California,  will  remain  there  imtil  further  orders." 

The  transport  ships  Thomas  H.  Perkins,  Loo  Choo,  Susan 
Drew,  and  Brutus,  with  Col.  Stevenson's  regiment,  arrived  a1 
San  Francisco  during  the  months  of  March  and  AprU.  These 
vessels  were  freighted  with  a  vast  quantity  of  munitions,  stores, 
tools,  saw-mills,  grist-mills,  etc.  etc.,  to  be  employed  in  the  for- 
tification of  the  principal  harbors  on  the  coast — San  Francisco, 
Monterey,  and  San  Diego.  The  regiment  of  Col.  Stevenson 
was  separated  into  different  commands,  portions  of  it  being  sta- 
tioned at  San  Francisco,  Sonoma,  Monterey,  Santa  Barbara, 
and  Los  Angeles,  and  some  companies  employed  against  the 
horse-thief  Indians  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  the  Tulares. 

As  good  an  account  of  these  horse-thief  Indians,  and  their 
depredations,  as  I  have  seen,  I  find  in  the  "  California  Star,"  of 
March  28th,  1847,  written  by  a  gentleman  who  has  been  a  resi- 
dent of  California  for  a  number  of  years,  and  who  has  been  a 
sufiierer.     It  is  subjoined  : 

"  During  the  Spanish  regime,  such  a  thing  as  a  horse-thief 
was  unknown  in  the  country,  but  as  soon  as  the  Mexicans  took 
possession,  their  characteristic  anarchy  began  to  prevail,  and 


434  A  NOTED  HORSE-THIEF. 

the  Indians  to  desert  from  the  missions.  The  first  Indiitn  horse 
thief  known  in  this  part  of  the  country,  was  a  neophyte  of  the 
mission  of  Santa  Clara,  George,  who  flourished  about  twenty 
years  ago.  He  absconded  from  his  mission  to  the  river  of  Sta- 
nislaus, of  which  he  was  a  native.  From  thence  he  returned 
to  the  settlements,  and  began  to  steal  horses,  which  at  that  time 
were  very  numerous.  After  pursuing  his  depredations  for 
some  time,  he  was  at  last  pursued  and  killed  on  his  return  from 
one  of  his  forages.  The  mission  of  Santa  Clara  has  been,  from 
that  time  to  the  present  day,  the  greatest  nui'sery  for  horse- 
thieves,  as  the  Stanislaus  river  has  been,  and  is  their  piincipal 
rendezvous.  I  have  taken  some  pains  to  inquire  among  some 
of  the  most  intelligent  and  respectable  of  the  native  inhabitants, 
as  to  the  probable  number  of  horses  that  have  been  stolen  be- 
tween Monterey  and  San  Fi'ancisco  within  the  last  twenty  years, 
and  the  i-esult  has  been  that  more  than  one  hundred  thousand 
can  be  distinctly  enumerated,  and  that  the  total  amount  would 
probably  be  double  that  niunber.  Nearlj'^  all  these  horses  have 
been  eaten  !  From  the  river  of  StanisUtus,  as  a  central  point, 
the  evil  has  spread  to  the  north  and  south,  and  at  present  ex- 
tends from  the  vicinity  of  the  Mickelemes  river  on  the  north,  to 
the  sources  of  the  St.  Joaquin  on  the  south.  These  Indians 
inhabit  all  the  western  declivity  of  the  great  snowy  mountains, 
within  these  limits,  and  have  become  so  habituated  to  Mving  on 
horseflesh,  that  it  is  now  with  them  the  principal  means  of 
subsistence. 

"  In  past  time  they  have  been  repeatedly  pursued,  and  many 
of  them  killed,  and  whole  villages  destroyed,  but  so  far  from 
being  deterred,  they  are  continually  becoming  more  bold  and 
daring  in  their  robbeiies,  as  horses  become  scarcer  and  more 
carefully  guarded.  About  twenty  persons  have  been  killed  by 
them  within  the  knowledge  of  the  writer.  Among  others,  Mr. 
Lindsay  and  Mr.  Wilson  were  killed  by  them  not  long  ago. 
Only  about  one  month  since,  they  shot  and  dangerously  wound- 
ed four  persons  employed  on  the  farm  of  Mr.  Weber  near  the 
Pueblo  of  St.  Joseph,  and  at  the  same  time  stole  the  horses  oi 
*he  farm,  and  those  also  from  the  farms  of  Captain  Fisher,  and 


MK.   STANLCV,   THE     ARTIST.  436 

Mr.  Bumal,  in  the  same  vicinity ;  in  all,  above  two  hondred 
head.  Within  the  last  ten  days,  numerous  parties  of  them  have 
been  committing  depredations  on  many  of  the  farms  in  the  ju- 
risdiction of  the  Contra  Costa,  and  scarcely  a  night  passes  but 
we  hear  of  their  having  stolen  horses  from  some  one.  Three 
days  ago,  a  party  of  them  were  met  by  some  y^img  men  who 
had  been  out  catching  wild  horses  on  the  plains  of  the  St.  Joa- 
quin, but  as  they  were  mounted  on  tu"ed  animals,  they  were  only 
able  to  recapture  the  stolen  horses,  but  could  not  overtake  the 
thieves." 

It  has  not  been  within  the  scope  of  my  design,  in  writing  out 
these  notes,  to  enter  into  the  minute  details  of  the  conquest  and 
occupation  of  California  by  the  forces  of  the  United  States. 
To  do  so  would  require  more  space  than  I  have  allowed  my- 
self, and  the  matter  would  be  more  voluminous  than  interesting 
or  important.  My  intention  has  been  to  give  such  a  sketch  of 
the  military  operations  in  California,  during  my  residence  and 
travels  in  the  coimtry,  as  to  afford  to  the  reader  a  general  and 
correct  idea  of  the  events  transpu'ing  at  the  time.  No  impor- 
tant circumstance,  I  think,  has  escaped  my  attention. 

Among  the  officers  of  the  army  stationed  at  San  Francisco, 
with  whom  I  became  acquainted,  were  Major  Hardie,  in  com- 
mand of  the  troops,  Captain  Folsom,  acting  quartermaster- 
general  in  California,  and  Lieut.  Warner  of  the  engineer  corps. 
Lieut.  Warner  marched  with  Gen.  Kearny  from  the  United 
States,  and  was  at  the  battle  of  San  Pasqual.  I  have  seen  the 
coat  which  he  wore  on  that  occasion,  pierced  in  seven  different 
places  by  the  lances  of  the  enemy.  He  did  not  make  this  ex- 
hibition himself,  and  I  never  heard  him  refer  to  the  subject  but 
once,  and  then  it  was  with  the  modesty  of  a  veteran  campaigner. 

The  corps  of  topographical  engineers  accompanying  Gen. 
Kearny,  iu:ider  the  command  of  Captain  Emory,  will,  doubt- 
less, furnish  in  their  report  much  interesting  and  valuable  in- 
formation. Mr.  Stanley,  the  artist  of  the  expedition,  completed 
his  sketches  in  oil,  at  San  Francisco ;  and  a  more  truthful,  in- 
teresting, and  valuable  series  of  paintings,  delineating  mountain 
scenery,  the  floral  exhibitions  on  the  route,  the  savage  tribet 


430  JURISPRUDENCE. 

between  Santa  Fe  and  California — combined  with  camp-life  and 
marches  through  the  desert  and  wilderness — has  never  been, 
and  probably  never  will  be  exhibited,  Mr.  Stanley  informed 
me  that  he  was  preparing  a  work  on  the  savage  tribes  of  North 
America,  and  of  the  islands  of  the  Pacific,  which,  when  com- 
pleted on  his  plan,  will  be  the  most  comprehensive  and  descrip- 
tive of  the  subject,  of  any  that  has  been  published. 

Legal  proceedings  are  much  less  complex  in  California  than 
in  the  United  States.  There  is  no  written  statute  law  in  the 
country.  The  only  law-books  I  could  find  were  a  digested 
code  entitled,  "  Laws  of  Spain  and  the  Indies,"  published  in 
Spain  about  one  hundred  years  ago,  and  a  small  pamphlet  de- 
fining the  powers  of  various  judicial  officers,  emanating  from 
the  Mexican  government  since  the  revolution.  A  late  Mexican 
governor  of  California,  on  being  required  by  a  judicial  magis- 
trate to  instruct  him  as  to  the  manner  in  which  he  should  ad- 
minister the  law  within  his  jurisdiction,  replied,  "  Administer  it 
in  accordance  with  the  principles  of  natural  right  and  justice,'' 
and  this  is  the  foundation  of  Californian  jurisprudence.  The 
local  bandos,  or  laws,  are  enacted,  adjudicated,  and  executed  by 
the  local  magistrates,  or  alcaldes.  The  alcalde  has  jurisdiction 
in  all  municipal  matters,  and  in  cases  for  minor  offences,  and  for 
debt  in  suras  not  over  one  hundred  dollars.  In  cases  of  heinous 
or  capital  offences,  the  alcalde  has  simply  an  examining  power, 
the  testimony  being  taken  down  in  writing,  and  transmitted  to 
the  juez  de  primera  instancia,  or  first  judge  of  the  district,  before 
whom  the  case  is  tried.  Civil  actions,  for  sums  over  one  hundred 
dollars,  must  also  be  tried  before  i\\QJuez  de  primera  instancia, 
and  from  liim  tliere  is  an  appeal  to  the  prefect,  or  the  governor 
of  the  province.  The  trial  by  hombres  buenos,  or  good  men,  is 
one  of  the  established  legal  tribunals  when  either  of  the  par- 
ties d<;raaiKl  it,  and  is  similar  to  our  trial  by  jury  ;  the  difference 
l)eing  in  llie  number,  tlie  hombres  buenos  usually  consisting  of 
three  or  five,  as  tliey  may  be  ordered  by  the  magistrate,  or  re- 
quested by  the  litigants,  and  our  jury  of  twelve.  With  honest 
and  intelligent  magi.strates  the  system  operates  «dvantageously, 
aB  justice  is  speedy  and  certain  ;  but  the  reverse  of  this,  with  cor- 


PUEBLOS.  437 

nipt  and  ignorant  magistrates,  too  frequently  in  power,  the  con- 
sequences of  the  system  are  as  bad  as  can  well  be  imagined. 

The  policy  of  the  Mexican  government  has  been  to  encourage 
in  certain  localities  the  erection  of  pueblos,  or  towns,  and  for  thi» 
piu-pose  they  have  made  grants  of  land  to  the  local  authorities, 
or  municipalities,  within  certain  defined  limits,  to  be  regnmted 
upon  application,  in  lots  of  fifty  or  one  hundred  varass,  is  the 
case  may  be,  to  persons  declaring  their  intention  to  settle  and 
to  do  business  in  the  town.  For  these  grants  to  individuals  a 
certain  sum  of  money  is  paid,  which  goes  into  the  treasury  of 
the  municipality.  The  magistrates,  however,  without  special 
permission,  have  no  power  to  grant  lots  of  land  within  a  certain 
number  of  feet  of  or  below  high-water  mark.  This  power  is 
reserved  to  be  exercised  by  the  governor  of  the  province.  It 
being  necessary  for  the  convenient  landing  of  ships,  and  for  the 
discharging  and  receiving  of  their  cargoes,  that  the  beach  in 
front  of  the  town  of  San  Francisco  should  be  improved  with 
wharves,  etc.  etc.,  and  that  titles  should  be  granted  to  individ- 
uals who  otherwise  would  make  no  durable  improvements,  as 
magistrate  of  the  town,  in  compliance  with  the  request  of  nu- 
merous citizens,  I  solicited  from  General  Keai'ny,  the  acting 
governor,  a  relinquishment  on  the  part  of  the  general  govern- 
ment of  the  beach  lands  in  front  of  the  town  in  favor  of  the 
municipality,  under  certain  conditions.  General  Kearny  made 
the  following  decree : 

I,  Brigadier-general  S.  W.  Kearny,  -Governor  of  California,  by  virtue 
of  authority  in  me  vested,  by  the  President  of  the  United  States  of  Ameri- 
ca, do  hereby  grant,  convey,  and  release  unto  the  town  of  San  Francisco, 
the  people,  or  corporate  authorities  thereof,  all  the  right,  title,  and  interest  ol 
the  Government  of  the  United  States,  and  of  the  Territory  of  Cahfornia,  in 
and  to  the  beach  and  water  lots  on  the  east  front  of  said  town  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, included  between  the  points  known  as  the  Rincon  and  Fort  Mont- 
gomery, except  such  lots  as  may  be  selected  for  the  use  of  the  United  States 
Government  by  the  senior  officers  of  the  army  and  navy  now  there  ;  Pro- 
vided the  said  ground  hereby  ceded  shall  be  divided  nito  lots,  and  sold  by 
public  auction  to  the  highest  bidder,  after  three  months'  notice  previously 
given :  the  proceeds  of  said  sale  to  be  for  the  benefit  of  the  town  of  San 
Francisco. 

87* 


438  BEACH  LOTS. 

Given  at  Monterey,  capital  of  California,  this  10th  day  of  Marchi  1847 
and  the  seventy-first  year  of  the  Independence  of  the  United  States. 

S.  W.  KEARNY, 
Brigadier-general  and  Governor  of  California. 

These  beach  lots  were  advertised  immediately,  and  having  been 
surveyed  subsequently,  were  sold  at  public  auction  by  my  suc- 
cessor.   I  subjoin  the  advertisement  under  which  they  were  sold : 

Great  Sale  of  Valuable  Heal  -Estate  in  the  Tovm  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, U'jyper  California. 

By  the  following  decree  of  his  Excellency,  General  S.  W.  Kearny,  Gov- 
ernor of  California,  all  the  right,  title,  and  interest  of  the  United  States,  and 
of  the  Territory  of  California,  to  the  beach  and  water  lots  on  the  east  front 
of  the  town  of  San  Francisco,  have  been  granted,  conveyed,  and  released, 
to  the  people  or  corporate  authorities  of  said  town. 

(Here  follo\ys  the  decree  copied  above.) 

In  pursuance  of,  and  in  compliance  with  the  conditions  of  the  foregoing 
decree,  all  the  ungranted  tract  of  ground  on  the  east  front  of  the  iown  of 
San  Francisco,  lying  and  situated  between  Fort  Montgomery  and  the  Rin- 
con,  and  known  as  the  water  and  beach  lots,  (the  reservations  by  the  gen- 
eral ana  town  governments  excepted,)  will  be  surveyed  and  divided  into 
convenient  building  lots  for  warehouses  and  stores,  and  offered  at  public  sale, 
to  the  highest  bidder,  on  Tuesday  the  29th  day  of  June  next,  at  ten  o'clock, 
A.  M.  A  plan  of  lots  in  connection  with  a  general  map  of  the  town,  will 
be  mado  out  and  exhibited  on  or  before  the  day  of  sale. 

Terms  of  sale,  one  fourtli  cash, — one  fourth  in  six  months, — one  fourth 
in  twelve  months. — and  one  fourth  in  eighteen  months,  the  purchaser  giv- 
ing approved  security  bearing  an  interest  of  ten  per  cent,  per  annum  from 
the  day  of  sale. 

Otner  conditions  will  be  made  known  on  or  before  the  day  of  sale. 

The  site  of  the  town  of  San  Francisco  is  known  by  all  navigators  ana 
mercantile  men  acquainted  with  the  subject,  to  be  the  most  commaudinu; 
commercial  position  on  the  entire  eastern  coast  of  the  Pacific  ocean,  and 
the  town  itself  is,  no  doubt,  destined  to  become  the  commercial  emporium 
of  the  western  side  of  the  North  American  continent.  The  property  offeree 
lor  sale  is  the  most  valuable  in,  or  belonging  to  the  town,  and  the  acquisition 
of  it  is  an  object  of  deep  interest  to  all  mercantile  houses  in  California  ant" 
elsewliore  engaged  in  the  coinmerce  of  tlie  Pacific. 

Ei:)VVIN  BRYANT 
Alcalde,  or  Chief  Magistrate,  Town  and  Dist.  of  San  Vraneiteo 
8am  Fkanrihco,  Urri£R  Calivornia,  ) 
Mardi  1(J,  1647.  S 


PROGRESS  OF  SA^  FRANCISCO.  439 

WUle  acting  as  magistrate  of  the  district  of  San  Francisco, 
a  survey  of  the  town,  commenced  under  my  predecessor,  was 
completed  under,  my  directions,  and  the  plan  extended  so  as  to 
mclude  the  pueblo  lands  contained  in  the  grant  of  the  general 
government  to  the  municipality.  This  survey  was  made  by  Mr. 
Jasper  O'Farrell,  the  departmental-surveyor  imder  the  Mexican 
government,  and  a  plan  of  the  town,  in  connection  with  a  map 
of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  and  its  environs,  was  admirably 
drawn  by  him.  After  the  survey,  lots  were  granted  to  ap- 
plicants in  conformity  with  the  Mexican  laws  and  precedents. 
The  following  extracts  from  the  "  California  Star,"  published  at 
San  Francisco,  will  afford  the  best  idea  of  the  thrift  and  progress 
of  the  place : 

From  the  California  Star,  March  13,  18^" 

The  town  of  San  Francisco,  is  now  rapidly  improving,  and  bids  fair  to 
rival,  in  rapidity  of  progress,  the  most  thriving  town  or  city  on  the  American 
continent.  If  the  necessary  labor  and  lumber  can  be  obtained,  from  three 
to  five  hundred  houses  vcill  probably  go  up  in  the  course  of  the  present  year. 
There  b  room  here  for  artisans,  mechanics,  and  laborers  of  all  kinds.  Tbo 
highest  wages  are  paid,  and  will  continue  to  be  paid  ;  and  the  highest  price 
for  lumber,  brick,  adobes,  and  every  description  of  building  materials,  will 
be  given  upon  their  delivery  here,  payable  in  cash. 

The  town  of  San  Francisco  is  no  doubt  destined  to  be  the  Liverpool  or 
New  York  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  At  this  point  will  be  concentrated  nearly 
all  the  commercial  enterprise  and  capital  engaged  and  invested  m  the  Pa- 
rific  trade.  The  position  of  the  town  for  commerce  is  unrivalled,  and  never 
2an  be  rivalled  unless  some  great  convulsion  of  nature  shall  produce  a  new 
harbor  on  the  Pacific  coast  equalling  in  beauty  and  security  our  maffiiiil- 
cent  bay.  Without  difficulty  or  danger,  ships  of  any  burden  can  at  all 
times  enter  the  harbor,  which  is  capacious  enough  to  contain  the  navies  of 
the  whole  world.  The  extensive  and  fertile  countries,  watered  by  the  Sa- 
cramento and  San  Joaquin  rivers,  and  the  numerous  navigable  creeks  emp- 
tying into  the  bay,  must,  when  they  are  settled  upon  with  an  iuaustrious 
population,  as  they  soon  will  be,  pour  their  produce  into  this  place,  and  re- 
ceive in  exchange  from  our  merchants,  all  their  supplies  of  manufactures 
and  luxuries.  AH  the  products  of  the  gold,  silver,  cojjper,  iron,  and  quick- 
silver mines,  with  which  the  country  abounds,  must  be  concentrated  here 
for  manufacture  and  exportation.  In  a  few  years  our  wharves  and  streets 
will  present  a  scene  of  bnsy  iife,  resembling  lliise  witnessed  in  Liverpool, 
New  Orleans,  and  New  York.     Mechanics  and  artisans  from  all  parts  at 


440  PROGRESS  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

the  world  will  flock  here,  and  we  shall  be  in  the  full  enjoyment  of  all  th« 
elegancies  and  luxuries  of  the  oldest  and  most  polished  countries  of  the 
globe.  This  is  no  fancy  sketch  ;  but,  on  the  contrary,  all  who  now  read 
may  Uve  and  see  it  fully  verified. 

•  From  the  same. 
Regular  Mail. — Our  readers  will  be  pleased  to  learn,  that  Governor 
Kearny  heis  established  a  semi-monthly  mail,  to  run  regularly  between  San 
Francisco  and  San  Diego.  This  mail  is  to  be  carried  on  horseback,  by  a 
party  consisting  of  two  soldiers,  and  is  to  commence  on  the  19th  instant. 
Starting  every  other  Monday  from  San  Diego  and  San  Francisco,  the 
parties  to  meet  at  Captain  Dana's  rancho  the  next  Sunday,  to  exchange 
mails  ;  start  back  on  their  respective  routes  the  next  morning,  and  arrive  at 
San  Diego  and  San  Francisco  on  the  Sunday  following,  and  so  continuing. 
The  mail  will  thus  be  carried  once  a  fortnight  from  San  Diego  tc  San 
Francisco,  and  from  San  Francisco  to  San  Diego. 

From  the  same,  May  8. 

Public  meeting — Church  in  San  Francisco. — A  meeting  of  the  citizens 
of  this  place  was  called  on  Thursday  evening  last,  for  the  purpose  of  ascer- 
taining the  prevailing  sentiment  in  relation  to  the  establishment  of  a  church 
in  the  town  of  San  Francisco. 

We  hail  this  as  tlie  first  step  towards  planting  the  standard  of  our  glori- 
ous institutions  on  tlie  shores  of  the  Pacific,  and  trust  an  energetic  co-opera- 
♦ion  of  our  citizens  will  ensure  success  to  the  enterprise. 

From  the  same,  May  22. 
A  Sabbath -school,  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  J.  H.  Merrill,  superintend- 
ent, ha«  been  organized,  and  will  be  held  at  the  office  of  the  Alcalde  every 
Sunday,  at  the  hour  of  D  a.  m.,  and  at  2  p.  m.  All  children,  with  their  pa- 
rents, are  respectfully  invited  to  attend.  Donations  will  be  thankfully  re- 
ceived and  appropriated  to  the  use  of  the  school.  A  library  is  to  be  pre- 
sented by  the  iiev.  W.  Roberts,  superintendent  of  the  Oregon  mission. 

J.  D.  Maiiston,  Secretary. 

From  the  same,  May  29. 

Illumination. — 1  he  first  grand  illumination  of  the  town  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, took  plane  jcKtcniay  evening,  in  honor  of  General  Taylor's  glorious 
achievement.  Every  dwelling,  store,  and  tavern,  shone  in  a  blaze  of  splen 
rtor,  and  never  ninco  the  founding  of  the  ])laco  were  the  qualities  of  sperm 
00  fully  listed,  nor  did  the  tallow  of  the  country  ever  meet  V'ith  «lloh  • 
•ome  consumptioQ. 


FIRST  SETTLEMENT  OF  THE  MISSI0NARIB8.  441 

Prom  th ;  aame. 

Our  town. — The  town  of  San  Francisco  is  progressing  in  population  with 
a  rapidity  almost  without  example,  certainly  with  no  example  on  the  waters 
of  the  Pacific  ocean.  Not  less  than  fifty  houses  have  gone  up  within  the 
last  month.  Every  man  now  here  finds  constant  employment,  and  if 
thousands  more  were  here  in  search  of  labor,  they  would  find  it,  and  receive 
for  their  services  as  much  as  any  reasonable  man  would  require. 

Lumber,  adobes,  brick  and  lime,  are  much  wanted,  and  whoever  em- 
barks largely  in  the  manufactory  of  these  building  materials,  foi  consump- 
tion at  this  place,  will  reap  a  rich  harvest  of  profits.  The  high  price  now 
demanded  for  them,  renders  building  expensive  ;  and  the  houses  now  going 
up  are  consequently  small.  But  another  year  we  trust  will  remedy  this 
difficulty. 

Numerous  merchant-vessels  are  arriving  here  almost  daily,  furnishing 
our  wholesale  and  retail  commercial  houses  with  large  supplies  of  mer- 
chandise of  every  description.  San  Francisco  is  now  a  point  where 
many  articles  of  merchandise  can  be  furnished  nearly  as  cheap  as  they  can 
be  in  the  United  States,  carriage  and  commissions  excepted.  Merchants 
along  the  seaboard  to  the  south  can  do  better  by  coming  here  to  replenish 
their  stock  of  merchandise,  than  by  sending  to  the  Islands. 


CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 

GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  UPON  THE  COUNTRY. 

Rrst  settlement  of  the  missionaries — Population — Characteristics  of  white 
population — Employments — Pleasures  and  amusements — Position  of  wo- 
men— Soil — Grasses — Vegetable  productions — Agriculture — Fruits — Cat- 
tle— Horses — Wild  animals — Minerals — Climate — Flora — Water-power 
— Timber — Religion. 

It  was  during  the  month  of  November  1602,  the  sun  just 
retiring  behind  the  distant  highland  vvliich  forms  the  back- 
ground of  a  spacious  harbor  at  the  southernmost  point  of  Alta 
California,  that  a  small  fleet  of  vessels  might  have  been  seen 
directmg  their  course  as  if  in  search  of  a  place  of  anchorage  ; 
their  light  sails  drawn  up,  while  the  larger  ones  swelling  now 
and  then  to  the  action  of  the  breeze,  bore  them  majestically 
along,  forcing  their  way  through  the  immense  and  almost  im- 
penetrable banier  of  se?.  weed  to  a  haven,  which  at  the  remote 


442  ESTABLISHMENT  OF  MISSIONS. 

period   stated  was  considered  the  unexplored  region  of  the 

North.  The  fleet  referred  to  hauled  their  wind  to  the  shore, 
and  passing  a  bluff  point  of  land  on  their  left,  soon  came  to 
anchor  ;  but  not  until  the  shades  of  night  had  cast  a  gloom  over 
tne  scene  so  recently  lighted  up  with  the  gorgeous  rays  of  a 
setting  sun. 

This  was  the  commencement,  or  rather  preliminary  mark  of 
civilization  in  this  coimtry,  by  the  Spaniards,  (if  so  it  can  be 
called,)  and  on  the  following  morning  a  detachment  was  landed, 
accompanied  by  a  friar,  to  make  careful  investigation  of  the  long 
ridge  of  highland  which  sei*ves  as  a  protection  to  the  harbor 
from  the  heavy  northwest  gales.  They  found,  as  reported,  an 
abnndance  of  small  oak  and  other  trees,  together  with  a  great 
variety  of  useful  and  aromatic  herbs ;  and  from  its  summit  they 
beheld  the  extent  and  beauty  of  the  port,  reachmg  as  they  said 
full  three  leagues  from  where  the  vessel  lay  at  anchor.  A 
large  tent  was  erected  on  the  sandy  beach  to  answer  the  pur- 
poses of  a  church,  where  the  friar  might  perform  mass,  and  by 
directions  of  the  commanding  officers,  the  boats  were  drawn  up 
for  repairing,  wells  were  dug,  parties  were  sent  off  to  cut 
wood,  while  guards  were  placed  at  convenient  distances  to  give 
notice  of  the  approach  of  any  hostile  force.  The  latter  pre- 
caution was  hardly  can-ied  into  effect,  ere  a  large  body  of  naked 
Indians  were  seen  moving  along  the  shore,  armed  with  bows 
and  arrows.  A  friar,  protected  by  six  soldiers,  was  dispatched 
to  meet  them,  who,  making  signs  of  peace  by  exhibiting  a  white 
flag  and  throwing  handfuls  of  sand  high  into  the  air,  influenced 
them  to  lay  aside  their  arms,  when  affectionately  embracing 
them,  the  good  old  friar  distributed  presents  of  beads  and  neck- 
laces, with  which  they  eagerly  adorned  their  persons.  This 
manifestation  of  good  feeling  induced  them  to  draw  near  to 
where  the  commander  had  landed  with  his  men,  but  perceiving 
so  large  a  number,  they  retreated  to  a  neigliboring  knoll,  and 
from  thence  sent  forward  to  the  Spaniards  ten  aged  females, 
who,  possessing  apparently  so  much  affability,  were  presented 
immediately  with  gifts  and  instructed  to  go  and  inform  theii 
people  of  the  friendly  disposition  cherished  for  them  by  the  whit* 


BST^  BLISHMENT   OF  MISSIONS.  443 

strangers.  This  was  sufficient  to  implant  a  free  intercourse 
with  the  Indians,  who  daily  visited  the  Spaniards  and  bar- 
tered off  their  skins  and  furs  in  exchange  for  bread  and  trinkets. 
But  at  length  the  time  arrived  for  the  fleet  to  depart,  and  they 
proceeded  northward,  visiting  in  their  course  Monterey  and 
Mendocino,  where  the  same  favorable  result  attended  the  en- 
terprise as  at  other  places,  and  they  returned  in  safety  to  Ne^|^ 
Spain. 

So  successful  had  been  the  character  of  this  expeditioi 
throughout  the  entu'e  period  of  its  execution,  that  an  enthusi- 
asm prevailed  in  the  minds  of  the  Spaniards,  which  could  only 
be  assuaged  by  an  attempt  to  conquer  and  Christianize  the  in- 
habitants of  that  distant  portion  of  the  American  continent. 
Many  were  the  fruitless  results  of  the  Spanish  adventurer — 
numerous  were  the  statements  of  his  toil  and  labor,  till  at 
length  a  formidable  attempt,  under  the  patronage  and  direction 
of  Don  Gaspar  de  Portala  and  Father  Junipero  Serra,  success- 
fully achieved  the  desired  object  for  which  it  was  planned  and 
executed. 

At  San  Diego,  where,  a  century  and  a  half  before,  the  primi- 
tive na\agators  under  Cortez  communed  with  the  rude  and  un- 
sophisticated native — there,  where  the  zealous  devotee  erected 
his  altar  on  the  burning  sand,  and  with  offerings  of  incense  and 
prayer  hallowed  it  to  God,  as  the  bu-thplace  of  Christianity  in 
that  region — upon  that  sainted  spot  commenced  the  spiritual 
conquest,  the  cross  was  erected,  and  the  holy  missionaries  who 
accompanied  the  expedition  entered  heart  and  soul  upon  their 
rehgious  duties.  Successful  in  all  they  undertook,  their  first 
estabhshment  in  a  short  time  was  completed,  and  drawing 
around  it  the  converted  Indians  in  large  numbers,  the  rude  and 
uncultivated  fields  gave  plac6  to  agricultural  improvement — ■ 
the  arts  and  sciences  gradually  obtained  foundation  where  be- 
fore all  was  darkness,  and  day  after  day  hundreds  were  added 
JO  the  folds  of  the  holy  and  apostolic  church.  Thus  trium- 
phantly proceeded  the  labors  of  the  Spimish  conquerors !  In 
course  of  time  other  institutions  were  founded  at  Santa  Bar- 
bara, Monterey,  and   San  Francisco,  where  at   each   place  a 


444  DESTRUCTION  OF  THE  MISSIONS. 

military  fortress  was  erected,  which  served  for  their  protestion.; 
and  to  keep  in  check  such  of  the  natives  who  were  disin- 
clined to  observe  the  regulations  of  the  community. 

The  natives  formed  an  ardent  and  almost  adorable  attach- 
ment for  their  spiritual  fathers,  and  were  happy,  quite  happy, 
under  their  jurisdiction.  Ever  ready  to  obey  them,  the  laboi 
in  the  field  and  workshop  met  with  ready  comphance,  and  so 
prosperous  were  the  institutions  that  many  of  them  became 
wealthy,  in  the  increase  of  their  cattle  and  great  abundance 
of  then-  granaries.  It  was  no  unusual  sight  to  behold  the 
plains  for  leagues  literally  spotted  with  bullocks,  and  large 
fields  of  corn  and  wheat  covering  acres  of  ground.  This  state 
of  things  continued  untU  the  period  when  Mexico  miderwent 
a  change  in  its  pohtical  form  of  government,  which  so  dis- 
heartened the  feelings  of  the  loyal  missionaries,  that  they  be- 
came regardless  of  their  estabhshments,  and  sufiered  them  to 
declme  for  want  of  attention  to  their  interests.  At  length, 
tivil  discord  and  anarchy  among  the  Californians  prepared  a 
more  effective  measure  for  their  destruction,  and  they  were 
left  to  the  superintendence  of  individuals  who  plundered  them 
of  all  that  was  desirable  or  capable  of  removal.  Thus,  the  gov- 
ernment commenced  the  robbery,  and  its  hirelings  carried  it  out 
to  the  letter,  destroying  and  laying  waste  wherever  they  were 
placed.  In  order  to  give  the  inhabitants  a  share  of  the  spoils, 
some  of  them  were  permitted  to  slaughter  the  cattle  by  con- 
tract, which  was  an  equal  division  of  the  proceeds,  and  the 
contractors  were  careful  when  they  delivered  one  hide  to  a 
mission,  to  reserve  two  for  tliemselves,  in  tliis  way  following  up 
the  example  of  their  superiors. 

This  important  revolution  in  the  systematic  order  of  the 
monastic  institutions  took  place  in  1836,  at  which  period  the 
most  important  of  them  possessed  property,  exclusive  of  their 
lands  and  tcnemtMits,  to  the  value  of  two  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand  dollars.  At  the  present  day  they  have  but  a  little 
more  than  dilapidated  walls  and  restricted  boundaries  of  terri- 
tory. Notwiihstanding  this  wanton  devastation  of  property, 
contrary  to  tlie  ojjiiiion  of  many  wlio  were  stiongly  in  favor  erf 


STATISTICS.  445 

supporting  these  religious  institutions,  the  result  proved  bene- 
ficial to  the  country  at  large.  Individual  enterpiise  succeeded 
as  the  lands  became  distributed,  so  that  the  Californian  beheld 
himself  no  longer  dependent  on  the  bounty  of  his  spiritual  di- 
rectors, but,  on  the  contrary,  he  was  enabled  to  give  support 
to  them,  from  the  increase  and  abimdance  of  his  own  posses- 
sions. 

Subsequent  to  the  expulsion  of  the  Mexicans,  numbers  of 
new  farms  were  created,  and  hundreds  of  Americans  were 
scattered  over  the  country.  Previous  to  1830,  the  actual  pos- 
sessions of  horned  cattle  by  the  rancheros  did  not  exceed  one 
hundred  thousand;  but  in  1842,  according  to  a  fair  estimate, 
made  by  one  on  the  spot,  the  number  had  increased  to  four 
himdred  thousand  ;  so  that  the  aggregate  is  equal  to  that  held 
by  the  missions  when  in  their  most  flourishing  condition.  The 
present  number  is  not  much,  if  any,  short  of  one  million. 

Presuming  a  statistical  knowledge  of  this  country,  before 
and  after  the  missionary  institutions  were  secularized,  may  be 
interesting,  I  will  insert  the  followmg  returns  of  1831  and 
1842,  to  contrast  the  same  with  its  present  condition : — 

\st.  In  1831  the  white  population  throughout  Alta-Califor- 
nia  did  not  exceed  4,500.  while  the  Indians  of  the  twenty-one 
missions  amounted  to  19,000;  in  1842,  the  former  had  in- 
creased to  Y,000,  and  the  latter  decreased  to  about  5,000. 

2d,  In  the  former  year,  the  number  of  horned  cattle,  in- 
cluding individual  possessions,  amounted  to  500,000 ;  in  the 
latter,  to  400,000. 

Zd.  At  the  same  period,  the  number  of  sheep,  goats,  and 
pigs,  was  321,000;  at  the  latter,  32,000. 

4iA.  In  1831  the  number  of  horses,  asses,  mules,  etc.,  was 
64,000;  in  1842  it  was  30,000. 

5th.  The  produce  in  corn,  etc.,  had  decreased  in  a  much 
greater  proportion — that  of  seventy  to  four. 

The  amount  of  duties  raised  at  the  custom-house  in  Monterey, 
from  1839  to  1842,  was  as  follows,  viz. : — 

1839 $85,613 

1840 72,308 

38 


446  POPULATION. 

1841 101,150 

1842 ,.      73,729 

The  net  amount    of   revenue  seldom  exceeding   in  any  yetii 
eighty  thousand  dcllars ;  so  that  when  a  deficiency  took  place, 
to  supply  the  expenditures  of  government,  it  had  been  usual  tc 
call  upon  the  missions  for  aid. 

The  value  of  the  hides  and  tallow  derived  from  the  annual 
matanzas,  may  be  estimated  at  |372,000.  These  two  com- 
modities, with  the  exception  of  some  beaver,  sea-otter,  and 
other  furs,  comprise  the  most  important  part  of  the  exporta- 
tions,  which,  in  addition,  would  augment  the  value  of  exports 
to  1400,000. 

The  permanent  population  of  that  portion  of  Upper  California 
situated  between  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  the  Pacific,  I  estimate 
at  25,000.  Of  this  number,  8,000  are  Hispano-Americans, 
5,000  foreigners,  chiefly  from  the  United  States,  and  12,000 
christianized  Indians.  There  are  considerable  numbers  of  wild 
or  Gentile  Indians  inhabiting  the  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin,  and 
the  gorges  of  the  Sierra,  not  included  in  this  estimate.  They 
are  probably  as  numerous  as  the  Christian  Indians.  The  Indian 
population  inhabiting  the  region  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  Mary's 
river,  the  oases  of  the  Great  Desert  Basin,  and  the  country  bor- 
dering the  Rio  Colorado  and  its  tributaries,  being  spread  over  a 
vast  extent  of  territory,  are  scarcely  seen,  although  the  aggregate 
number  is  considerable. 

The  Californians  do  not  differ  materially  from  the  Mexicans, 
from  whom  they  are  descended,  in  other  provinces  of  that 
country.  Physically  and  intellectually,  the  men,  probably,  are 
superior  to  the  same  race  farther  south,  and  inhabiting  the 
countries  contiguous  to  the  city  of  Mexico.  The  intermixture 
of  blood  with  the  Indian  and  negro  races  has  been  less,  although 
it  is  very  perceptible. 

The  men,  as  a  general  fact,  are  well  made,  with  pleasing, 
sprightly  c:nuitenanc(;s,  and  possessing  much  grace  and  ease  of 
manners,  and  vivacity  of  conversation.  But  hitherto  they  have 
had  little  knowledge  of  the  world  and  of  events,  beyond  whA'l 
tbey  have  heard  through  Mexico,  and  derived  from  the  supei 


CHARACTERISTICS — PURSL   Ts  AH 

cargoes  of  merchant-ships  and  whalemen  touching  upon  tii<; 
coast.  There  are  no  pubhc  schools  in  the  country — at  least  1 
never  heard  of  one.  There  are  but  few  books.  General  Vallejo 
has  a  library  with  many  valuable  books,  and  this  is  the  only  one 
I  saw,  although  there  are  others ;  but  they  are  rare,  and  confined 
to  a  few  families. 

The  men  are  almost  constantly  on  horseback,  and  as  horse- 
men excel  any  I  have  seen  in  other  parts  of  the  world.  Fi-om 
the  nature  of  their  pursuits  and  amusements,  they  have  brought 
horsemanship  to  a  perfection  challenging  admiration  and  exciting 
astonishment.  They  are  trained  to  the  horse  and  the  use  of 
the  lasso,  [riata,  as  it  is  here  called,)  from  their  infancy.  The 
first  act  of  a  child,  when  he  is  able  to  stand  alone,  is  to  throw  his 
toy-lasso  around  the  neck  of  a  kitten  ;  his  next  feat  is  performed 
on  the  dog ;  his  next  upon  a  goat  or  calf ;  and  so  on,  until  he 
mounts  the  horse,  and  demonstrates  his  skill  upon  horses  and 
cattle.  The  crowning  feat  of  dexterity  with  the  riata,  and  of 
horsemanship,  combined  with  daring  courage,  is  the  lassoing  of 
the  grisly  bear.  This  feat  is  performed  frequently  upon  this 
large  and  ferocious  animal,  but  it  is  sometimes  fatal  to  the  per- 
former and  his  horse.  Well  drilled,  with  experienced  mihtary 
leaders,  such  as  would  inspire  them  with  confidence  in  their 
skill  and  prowess,  the  Californians  ought  to  be  the  finest  cavalry 
in  the  world.  The  Californian  saddle  is,  I  venture  to  assert,  the 
best  that  has  been  invented,  for  the  horse  and  the  rider.  Seated 
in  one  of  these,  it  is  scarcely  possible  to  be  unseated  by  an}' 
ordinary  casualty.  The  bridle-bit  is  clumsily  made,  but  so  con- 
structed that  the  horse  is  compelled  to  obey  the  rider  upon  the 
slightCot  intimation.  The  spurs  are  of  immense  size,  but  they 
answei  to  an  experienced  horseman  the  double  purpose  of  ex- 
citing the  horse,  and  of  maintaining  the  rider  in  his  seat  under 
difficult  circumstances. 

For  the  pleasures  of  the  table  they  care  but  little.  With  his 
horse  and  trappings,  his  sarape  and  blanket,  a  piece  of  beef  and 
%  tortilla,  the  Cahfornian  is  content,  so  far  as  his  personal  com- 
forts are  concerned.  But  he  is  ardent  in  his  pursuit  of  amuse- 
ment and  pleasure,  and  these  consist  chiefly  in  the  fandango^ 


448  AMUSEMENTS PRODUCTION. 

the  game  of  monte,  horse-racing,  and  bull  and  bear  baiting. 
They  gamble  freely  and  desperately,  but  pay  their  losses  with 
the  most  strict  punctuaUty,  at  any  and  every  sacrifice,  and  man- 
ifest but  little  concern  about  them.  They  are  obedient  to  their 
magistrates ;  and  in  all  disputed  cases  decided  by  them,  acqxii- 
esce  without  uttering  a  word  of  complaint.  They  have  been 
accused  of  treachery  and  insincerity.  Whatever  may  have  been 
the  grounds  for  these  accusations  in  particular  instances,  I  know 
not ;  but  judging  from  my  own  observation  and  experience,  they 
are  as  free  from  these  quahties  as  our  own  people. 

While  the  men  are  employed  in  attending  to  the  herds  of 
cattle  and  horses,  and  engaged  in  their  other  amusements,  the 
women  (I  speak  of  the  middle  classes  on  the  ranchos)  superin- 
tend and  perform  most  of  the  drudgery  appertaining  to  house- 
keeping, and  the  cultivation  of  the  gardens,  from  whence  are 
drawn  such  vegetables  as  are  consumed  at  the  table.  These 
are  few,  consisting  of  frijoles,  potatoes,  onions,  and  chiles.  Thf 
assistants  in  these  labors  are  the  Indian  men  and  women,  legally 
reduced  to  servitude. 

The  soil  of  that  portion  of  California,  between  the  Sierra 
Nevadf  and  the  Pacific,  will  compare,  in  point  of  fertility,  with 
any  that  I  have  seen  elsewhere.  As  I  have  already  described 
such  portions  of  it  as  have  come  under  my  observation,  it  i? 
unnecessary  for  me  here  to  descend  to  particulars.  Wheat 
barley,  and  other  small  grains,  with  hemp,  flax,  and  tobacco, 
can  be  produced  in  all  the  valleys,  without  inigation.  To  pro- 
duce maize,  potatoes,  and  other  garden  vegetables,  irrigation  i& 
necessary.  Oats  and  mustard  grow  spontaneously,  with  such 
rankness  as  to  be  considered  nuisances  upon  the  soil.  I  have 
forced  my  way  through  thousands  of  acres  of  these,  higher 
than  my  head  when  mounted  on  a  hone.  The  oats  grow  to 
the  summits  of  the  hills,  but  they  are  not  here  so  tall  and  rani 
us  in  the  valleys. 

The  varieties  of  grasses  are  greater  than  on  the  Atlantic  side 
of  the  continent,  and  far  more  nutritious.  I  have  seen  scveii 
different  kinds  of  clover,  several  of  them  in  a  dry  state,  deposit- 
ing a  seed  upon  thp  ground  so  abundant  as  to  cover  it,  'inrhicL 


AGRICULTURE.  449 

is  lapped  up  by  the  cattle  and  horses  anc  other  animals,  as  com 
or  oats,  when  threshed,  would  be  with  us.  All  the  grasses,  and 
they  cover  the  entire  country,  are  heavily  seeded,  and  when 
ripe,  are  as  fattening  to  stock  as  the  grains  which  we  feed  to 
our  beef,  horses,  and  hogs.  Hence  it  is  unnecessary  to  the 
sustenance  or  fattening  of  stock,  to  raise  corn  for  their  con- 
sumption. 

Agriculture  is  in  its  rudest  state.  The  farming  implements 
which  have  been  used  by  the  Californians,  with  few  exceptions, 
are  the  same  as  were  used  three  hundred  years  ago,  Avhen  Mex- 
ico was  conquered  b)^  Cortez.  A  description  of  them  would  be 
tedious.  The  plough,  however,  which  merely  scratches  the 
ground,  is  the  fork  of  a  small  tree.  It  is  the  same  pattern  as 
the  Roman  plough,  two  thousand  years  ago.  Other  agricul- 
tural implements  are  of  the  same  description.  The  Americans, 
and  other  foi-eigners,  are,  however,  introducing  the  American 
plough,  and  other  American  farming  tools,  the  consequence  oi 
which  has  already  been,  to  some  extent,  to  produce  a  revolution 
in  agiiculture.  The  crops  of  wheat  and  barley,  which  I  saw 
about  the  1st  of  June,  while  passing  through  the  country  on 
my  journey  to  the  United  States,  exceeded  in  promise  any 
which  I  have  seen  in  the  United  States.  It  was  reported  to  me 
that  Captain  Sutter's  crop  of  wheat,  for  1847,  would  amount  to 
75,000  bushels. 

The  natural  vegetable  productions  of  California,  have  been 
sufficiently  noticed  in  the  com-se  of  this  work,  for  the  reader  to 
form  a  correct  estimate  of  the  capabilities  of  the  soil  and  cli- 
mate. It  is  supposed  by  some,  that  cotton,  sugar,  and  rice, 
could  be  produced  here.  I  do  not  doubt  but  there  are  portions 
of  the  coimtry  where  these  crops  would  thrive ;  but  I  question 
whether,  generally,  they  could  be  cultivated  to  advantage. 
Nearly  all  the  fruits  of  the  temperate  and  tropical  climates  are 
produced  in  perfection  in  California,  as  has  before  been  stated. 

The  principal  product  of  the  country  has  been  its  cattle  and 
horses.  The  cattle  are,  I  think,  the  largest  and  finest  I  ever 
saw,  and  the  beef  is  more  delicious.  There  are  immense  herds 
of  these,  to  which  I  have  previously  referred ;  and  their  hides 

38* 


450         CATTLE HORSES WILD  ANIMALS. 

and  tallow,  when  slaughtered,  have  hitherto  composed  the  pric 
?ipal  exports  from  the  country.  If  I  were  to  hazard  an  esti- 
mate of  the  nimiber  of  hides  annually  exported,  it  would  be 
conjectural,  and  not  worth  much.  I  would  suppose,  however, 
at  this  time,  (1847,)  that  the  number  would  not  fall  much  short 
of  150,000,  and  a  correspondiug  number  of  arrobas  (25  pounds) 
of  tallow.  The  average  value  of  cattle  is  about  five  dollars  per 
head. 

The  horses  and  mules  are  correspondingly  numerous  with  the 
cattle  ;  and  although  the  most  of  them  are  used  in  the  country, 
considerable  numbers  are  driven  to  Sonora,  New  Mexico,  and 
other  southern  provinces,  and  some  of  them  to  the  United 
States,  for  a  market.  They  are  smaller  than  the  American 
horses,  and  I  do  not  think  them  equal  for  continuous  hard  ser- 
^^ce ;  but  on  short  trips,  for  riding,  their  speed  and  endm-ance 
are  not  often,  if  ever,  equalled  by  oui*  breed  of  horses.  The 
value  of  good  horses  is  from  $10  to  $25  ;  of  mares,  $5.  The 
prices  have,  however,  since  the  Americans  came  into  the  coun- 
try, become  fluctuating,  and  the  value  of  both  horses  and  cattle 
is  increasing  rapidly. 

The  wild  animals  of  California  are  the  wild-horse,  the  elk, 
the  black-tailed  deer,  antelope,  grisly  bear,  all  in  large  numbers. 
Added  to  these  are  the  beaver,  otter,  coyote,  hare,  squirrel,  and 
the  usual  variety  of  other  small  animals.  There  is  not  so  great 
a  variety  of  small  birds  as  I  ha^'e  seen  elsewhere.  I  do  not 
consider  that  the  country  presents  strong  attractions  for  the 
ornithologist.  But  what  is  wanting  in  variety  is  made  up  in 
numbers.  The  bays  and  indentations  on  the  coast,  as  well  as 
the  rivers  and  lakes  interior,  swarm  with  myriads  of  wild-geese, 
ducks,  swans,  and  other  water  birds.  The  geese  and  ducks  are 
a  mongrel  race,  their  plumage  being  variegated,  the  same  as  our 
barnyard  fowls.  Some  of  the  islands  in  the  harbor,  near  San 
Francisco,  are  white  with  the  guano  deposited  by  these  birds ; 
and  boatloads  of  eggs  are  taken  from  them.  The  pheasant  and 
partridge  are  abundant  in  the  mountains. 

In  regard  to  the  minerals  of  California,  not  much  is  yet  known, 

has  been  the  policv  of  the  owners  of  land  upon  which  there 


PRECIOUS  METALS — TEMPERATURE.  451 

existed  minerals,  to  conceal  them  as  much  as  possible.  A 
reason  for  this  has  been,  that  the  law  of  Mexico  is  such,  that  if 
one  man  discovers  a  mine  of  any  kind  upon  another  man's  land, 
and  the  proprietor  does  not  work  it,  the  former  may  denounct 
the  mine  and  take  possession  of  it,  and  hold  it  so  long  as  he 
continues  to  work  it.  Hence  the  proprietors  of  land  upon  which 
there  are  valuable  mineral  ores,  conceal  their  existence  as  much 
as  possible.  While  m  California  I  saw  quicksilver,  silver,  lead, 
and  iron  ores,  and  the  specimens  were  taken  from  mines  said  to 
be  inexhaustible.  From  good  authority  I  learned  the  existence 
of  gold  and  copper  mines,  the  metals  being  combined ;  and  I  saw 
specimens  of  coal  taken  from  two  or  three  different  points,  but 
1  do  not  know  what  the  indications  were  as  to  quality.  Brim- 
stone, saltpetre,  muriate  and  carbonate  of  soda,  and  bitumen,  are 
abundant.  There  is  little  doubt  that  California  is  as  rich  in 
minerals  of  all  kinds  as  any  portion  of  Mexico. 

I  have  taken  much  pains  to  describe  to  the  reader,  from  day 
to  day,  and  at  different  points  duiing  my  travels  in  California, 
the  temperature  and  weather.  It  is  ra»ely  so  cold  in  the  settled 
portions  of  Cahfornia  as  to  congeal  water.  But  twice  only 
while  here  I  saw  ice;  ?nil  then  not  thicker  than  window-glass. 
1  saw  no  snow  resting  ipon  the  ground.  The  annual  rains  com- 
mence in  November,  and  continue,  with  intervals  of  pleasant, 
spring-like  weather,  until  ^lay.  From  May  to  November, 
usually,  no  rain  falls.  Theie  are,  however,  exceptions.  Ram 
sometimes  falls  in  August.  The  thermometer,  at  any  season  of 
the  year,  rarely  sinks  below  50°  or  rises  above  80°.  In  certain 
positions  on  ♦he  coast,  and  especially  at  San  Francisco,  the 
winds  rise  diurnally,  and  blowing  fresh  upon  the  shore  render 
the  temperat\ire  cool  in  midsummer.  In  the  winter  the  wind 
blows  from  the  land,  and  the  temperature  at  these  points  is 
warmer.  These  local  peculiarities  of  cUmateare  not  descriptive 
of  the  generfil  ( liinaie  of  the  interior. 

For  salulirity  1  do  not  think  there  is  any  climate  in  the  world 
superior  to  that  of  the  coast  of  California.  I  was  in  the  coun- 
try nearly  a  year,  exposed  much  of  the  time  to  great  hardships 
and  privations,  sleeping,  for  the  meet  part,  in  the  open  aij,  and 


452  SALUCRITV   OF  CLIMATE — FLORA. 

I  never  felt  while  there  the  first  pang  of  disease,  or  the  slightest 
indication  of  bad  health.  On  some  portions  of  the  Sacramento 
and  San  Joaqiiin  rivers,  where  vegetation  is  rank,  and  decays  m 
the  autumn,  the  malaria  produces  chills  and  fever,  but  general- 
ly the  attacks  are  slight,  and  yield  easily  to  medicine.  The  at- 
mosphere is  so  pure  and  preservative  along  the  coast,  that  I 
never  saw  putrified  flesh,  although  I  have  seen,  in  midsummer, 
dead  carcasses  lying  exposed  to  the  sun  and  weather  for  months. 
They  emitted  no  oflFensiA  e  smell.  There  is  but  httle  disease  in 
the  country  arising  from  the  climate. 

The  botany  and  flora  of  California  are  rich,  and  will  hereafter 
form  a  fnutful  field  of  discovery  to  the  naturahst.  There  are 
numerous  plants  reported  to  possess  extraordinary  medical  vir- 
tues. The  "  soap-plant"  (amdle)  is  one  which  appears  to  be 
among  the  most  serviceable.  The  loot,  which  is  the  sapona- 
ceous portion  of  the  plant,  resembles  the  onion,  but  possesses 
the  quahty  of  cleansing  linen  equal  to  any  "  oleic  soap"  manu- 
factured by  my  finends  Cornwall  &  Brother,  of  Louisville,  Ky. 

There  is  another  plant  in  high  estimation  with  the  Cahfomi- 
ans,  called  canclmlagua,  which  is  held  by  them  as  an  antidote 
for  all  the  diseases  to  which  they  are  subject ;  but  in  particidar 
for  cases  of  fever  and  ague.  For  pmifying  the  blood,  and  reg- 
ulating the  system,  I  think  it  siu'passes  all  the  medicinal  herbs 
that  have  been  brought  into  notice,  and  it  must  become,  in  time, 
one  of  the  most  important  articles  in  the  practice  of  medicine. 
In  the  season  for  flowers,  which  is  generally  during  the  months 
of  May  and  June,  its  pretty  pink-colored  blossoms  form  a  con- 
spicuous display  m  the  great  variety  which  adorn  the  fields  of 
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e^A   TREASURY    OF     ENGLISH    WORDS.^ 


Thesaurus  of  Engllsli  Words  &  Phrases 

Classified  aiifl  arraiijifed  so  as  to  faoHifato  t!ie  c-npression  of  idt-as, 

and  assist  in  literary  composiiion.  Dy  I'J/lKii  JMakk  Roget,  !M.D.,  F.K.S. 
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strength  of  language. 

This  work  is  truly  a  bank  from  whiclrtlio  sneaker  can  draw  either  ready  coin  and  small  change  for 
conversation,  or  invested  riches  of  language  for  the  essay  or  sermon.  A  copious  vocabulary  always 
plea.ses.  Conversationist,  orator,  debater,  editor,  preacher,  writer,  lady,  or  gentleman,  should  get  and 
master  the  treasures  of  Eugiidh  speech. — Union,  SchcaectaJ}/,  N.  Y. 

A  book  designed  to  aid  the  English  student  at  once  to  exactness  and  elegance  of  expression.  Wc 
have  for  years  had  two  copies  of  the  manual  in  constant  employ,  one  at  our  oifice  desk  itixd  one  p 
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The  new  edition  is  Tastly  superior  to  all  fonner  one.q.  'While  there  are  many  dictionaries  ani* 
works  on  synonyms,  none  can  be  named  beside  this. — Round  Table,  London. 

Almost  a.""  indispensable  to  all  writers  as  a  dictionary. —  The  World,  New  York. 


The  Handy  Bible  Cyclopedia; 

and  liIBL,E-REABEIl'.S  ASSISTANT.  Containing-  a  new  and  complete 
Illustrated  Dictionary  of  the  Holy  liible.  Compri.siiig  a  General  Index  in 
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HURST'S     POPULAR     CLASSICS. 

In  this  popular  series  are  included  some.of  the  choicest  productions  of  the  human  mind.  Both 
ancient  and  !nodern  literature  are  repi'eseiit^d.  The  scries  forms  the  cheapest  library  ever  ottered  to 
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Gulliver's  Travels,  and  Ovren  Meredith. 
Baron  Munchausen.  Petrarch. 


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Ai'ahian  Nights. 
Arnold,  Edvrin. 
IJaniin's  Woi-ks. 
Bible  Dictionary. 
Brief  Biographies. 
Bnrns. 
Byron. 

Children  of  the  Abbey. 
Corinne. 

Creasy's  Fifteen  Deci- 
sive Battles. 
Dante. 
Don  Qujxote. 

Eliot,  Georgfe. 
Fa\'orite  Poems. 
Goethe.  fpliy  of. 

Franklin,      Autobiogra- 
Goldsmith. 

Greene,    Marlowe,     and 
Jonson. 


Heine. 

Hemans. 

Homer's  Odyssey. 

Homer's  Iliad. 

Hugo. 

Hypatia. 

Ingelo\v. 

Jane  Eyre. 

John  Halifax. 

Kingsley. 

Knickerbocker. 


Language  and  Poetry  Tasso. 


Pilgrim's  Progres 

Poe. 

Pope. 

Robinson  Crusoe. 

Komola. 

Kossetti,  Dante. 

SchUler. 

Scott. 

Scottish  Chiefs. 

Sketch-book. 

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of  Flowers 
Liast  of  the  Moliicans-. 
Eongfellow. 
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Miss  Mnloch. 
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One  ThoHsaiul  aiid  One 


Tennyson. 

Thaddeus  of 'Warsaw. 
Thomjison. 
Tom  Brown's  School- 
days. 
Tupper. 
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Virgil. 


AUTOBIOGRAPHY   OF   BENJAMIN   FRANKLIN. 

Together  -with  his  Essays  on  Political,  Financial,  Moral,  Social,  and 
PJiilosophical  Subjects.    18mo,  clotli.    Price  40  ets.    By  naail  lO  cts.  extra. 

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an  account  of  every  action  of  his  life,  but  he  unveils  his  thoughts,  gives  us  his  motives— whether  cred- 
itable to  him  or  not.  This  secret  history,  renninlnT.  i.<  of  a  man  who  went  through  every  phase  of 
life,— of  whom  Jefferson  said,  "England  glories  in  her  I.urd  Bacon,  and  America  as  justly  prides  her- 
self upon  Benjamin  Franklin."  Franklin's  life  is  as  amusing' as  Gil  Bias,  as  instructive  as  that  of 
Morse-  The  schoolboy,  the  scientist,  and  the  statesman  alike  tmd  annisement  BHd  information  in  the 
pleasing  pages  of  "  Poor  Richard."    Every  family  in  the  land  should  hove  n  copy  of  this  book 


-■THIE- 


Fruse  Writers  of  Ameriea 

^        J 

A,  OoUection  of  Eloquent  and  interesting  Eztracts  from  the 
"Writings  of  American  Authors. 

By    GEORGE    B.    CHEEVER 


This  book  is  an  absolute  necessity  to  any  one  who  wishes  to  be  acquainte<^ 
with  the  excellencies  as  well  as  the  peculiarities  of  our  great  prose  writers  and 
orators.  Here  will  be  found  specimens  of  some  o/  the  most  exquisitely  fine,  grand, 
fiery,  simple,  ornate  and  effective  writing  and  oratory  that  the  language  contains- 
ItiS  full  of  "thoughts  that  breathe  and  words  that  burn."  Anyone  that  has  carefuiij 
read  this  volume  v>'ill  be  able  to  realize  fully  the  splendid  God-given  gen. us  cj 
those  that  have  helped  to  crush  vice,  elevate  patriotism  ana  wreathe  the  pure  browj 
of  virtue  with  amaranthine  flowers. 

We  append  the  names  of  some  of  the  many  authors  whose  best  utterances  ap 
pear  in  this  work  : 

Buckminster, 

Franklin, 

Paulding, 

Kirkland.5 

Beecher, 

Ticknor, 

ZrovTn, 

Jay,  Nott,  Rush, 

This  splendid  array  of  names  by  no  means  includes  all  the  gifted  persons, 
specimens  of  whose  works  appear  in  these  pages.     It  would  take  months  of  tim? 
lo  go  through  the  hundreds  of  volumes  to  find  such  excellent  examples  as  wiJi 
Dfi  found  here. 
One  volume,  12  mo.,  cloth,  488  pp.    Price  One  Dollax. 

THE 

Poets  of  America. 

By    GEORGE    B.    CHEEVER. 


Du  Buceau, 
Big:  Elk, 
Webster, 
MarshaD . 
Ramsay, ' 
Everett, 
Adams, 


Cass, 


Fitch, 


Red  Jacket, 

Emerson, 

Madison, 

Bancroit, 

Silliraan, 

Cooper, 

Ames, 


Flint 


Sedgwick, 

Jefferson, 

Channing, 

Guincy, 

Dwiglit, 

Irving, 

Norton, 


"Waylanc!,. 
Appleton, 
Dana, 
Dennie, 
Mason, 
Sparks, 
Carter, 
V/Lrt. 


This  work  is  one  much  needed.  It  contains  all  the  most  truly  beautiful  short 
pieces  of  American  Poetry— the  clear  wheat  winnowed  of  all  chaff.  We  have 
only  to  give  a  li?t  of  the  names  of  some  of  the  contributors  to  this  volume  to  show 
that  its   leaves  are  enriched  hy  offerings  of  the  very  choicest  poetical  gems. 

The  work  contains  one  or  more  jioems  by 
Long-fellow,     Woodworth,      Huntington, 

Rockwell, 

Wluttier, 

Brainard, 

Sprague, 

Bryant, 

Mellen, 


McLellan, 
Davidson, 
Pierpont, 
Graham, 
Wilcoi.., 
Norton , 
Sands, 


Sigoumey, 

Eastburn, 

Thatcher, 

Percival, 

Peabody, 

Halleck, 

Lewis, 


Dawes,       "Ware,       Dana, 


Townsend, 

Hale, 

GarrisoHj 

Gilman,  '  1. 

Everett, 

Brooks, 

Doane, 

Gould. 


Hillnouse, 

Pickerin,? 

Goodrich, 

Friabee, 

Willis, 

Alston, 

Flint,       Neal, 

There  are  immcroi:'-.  pieces,  in  addition,  which  appeared  in  various  lueiary' 
papers  atwnviiwusly,  ;,iul  which  have  since  become  f.inious,  and  which  it  is  ira. 
[xjssihlc  lo  find  except  in  llicse  pages.  This  book  is,  in  truth,  the  most  complete 
compendium  of  the  best  jjoems  of  our  best  poets  that  lias  yet  been  made.  It 
must  be  remembered,  too,  that  the  majority  of  articles  in  this  book  were  selcctei' 
%v  the  authors  aa,  ao  lo  speak,  the  choicest  arrows  in  their  quivers. 
Ouc  Uaiidsouiu  volume,  i^  mu.,    cloth,  ao(i  pp.    Pncfi  One  DollELT. 


The  Perfect  Shakespeare. 

Carefully  prepared  from  the  tarliest  and  more  modern  editions,  selected  where 
coiUiQentators  have  differed  as  to  the  Sense  of  obscure  or  doubtful  passages,  from 
those  rcadinp:s  which  the  ablest  critics  believe  to  be  the  most  Shakesperean  and  best 
suited  to  a  popular  cA\uon,  J/hisiraied  iviih  Thirty  Large  Ett^-rai/ings,  designed 
by  Mr.  John  Coxen,  the  celebrated  artist  and  engraver,  and  a  steel  portrait  of 
Shakespeare. 

We  have  used  the  term  ''^Perfect''''  as  applicable  to  this  edition,  and  anyone 
that  will  examine  it  will  see  that  iu  well  merits  the  title;  and,  indeed,  is  the  only 
.edition  that  fully  deserves  the  title  if  "/Vr/trf." 

'  There  are  numerous  edi'ionso^  this  wonderful  writer's  works,  got  up  in  all 
styles,  and  at  every  price.     But,  unfortunately  they  are  all  more  or  less  faulty. 

From  some  editions  many  of  the  strongest  passages  are  omitted  in  deference  to 
squeamish  namby-pambyism.  In  other  editions  some  fanciful  critic  has  tried  to 
improve  the  language  of  the  mighty  master — as  if  a  rushlight  could  add  lustre  to 
the  blazing  beams  of  the  noonday  sun. 

In  other  editions,  again,  many  scenes  are  transposed,  till  the  plays  arp  made, 
like.  Joseph's  coat,  a  thing  "of  shreds  and  patches." 

But  in  this  Edition,  the  "Perfect"  Shakespeare 
./4//the  Poems — all  the  Plays — all  the  Characters — all  the  Language — are  given  un- 
abridged, clear  and  "perfect"  as  they  originally  sprang  from  the  august  brow  of 
this  Jove  of  Poets — the  sublime  Shakespeare. 

It  is  not  necessary  at  this  late  day  to  say  aught  in  praise  of  Shakespeare's  works; 
for  they  are  universally  admitted  to  be  the  grandest  efforts  of  any  human  mind. 
Works  that  have  been  eulogized  by  Ben  Johnson,  by  Dryden,  by  Addison,  by  Mi'- 
ton  (PrinC     ">f  Poets)  who  has  beautifully  written  of  him  ar, 

'■'Sweetest  Shakespease — Nature's  child — 
IVarbling  his  native  wood-notes-wild." 
ieeds  no  ct- igy  from  meaner  men. 

IT  YOU  n^VB  BUT  ONE  BOOK  LET  THAT  BOOK  BE  "SHAKESPEARE." 
It  is  an  epitome  of  all  human  Passions,  Motives,  Actions  and  expressions. 
None  are  too  low;  none  too  high  to  miss  being  instructed  as  well  as  delighted 

by  the  Plays  and  Poetry  of  Shakespeare. 

Even  if  a  person  is  not  easily  moved  by  "concord  of  sweet"  words  it  is  a  mat' 

ter  of 

I]Srecessaj3:r37-  ZPoHji-b©   Ed-uLcatioxi. 

to  be  well  informed  about  the  works  of  "the  sweet  Swan  of  Avon."  For  one  can 
hardly  take  up  a  book,  listen  to  a  conversation,  or  even  hear  a  sermon,  but  that  he 
will  see  or  hear  characters  alluded  to,  or  lives  quoted  from  the  peerless  author  of 
whom  Dr.  Johnson  has  truly  said:  "That  the  stream  of  time  which  washed  away 
the  perishable  fabrics  of  poets,  passed  harmlessly  by  the  adamantine  fame  of 
'^'"^kespeare." 

Jott  can  Learn  the  English  Language  from  Shakespeare  Alont. 

The  great  Hungarian  Patriot,  Kossuth,  who  spoke  English  with  the  eloquence 
oi  z.  Clay  or  a  Webster,  says  that,  while  in  prison,  he  learned  all  that  he  knew  of 
English  with  no  other  book  than  a  "perfect  Shakespeare." 

is  in  every  respect  the  best  edition.  Every  word  of  the  original  is  in  it.  It  is 
printed  from  new,  clear,  eaisily  read  type.  It  is  a  fine,  large,  handsome  book — an 
crnament  to  a  parlor  table.     It  is  embellished  with  many  striking  illustrations. 

IT  IS  SOLD  FOR  THE  EXCEEDINGLY  SMALL  SUlu.         $1.50. 

The  "Perfect"  Shakespeare,  in  addition  to  the  whole  of  Shakespeare's  Comedies, 
Histories,  Tragedies  and  Poems,  all  that  he  ever  wrote,  contains  ihe  full  te.xt>.: 
Shakespeare  Will  as  recorded  in  the  office  of  the  Prerogative  Court  of  Canterbury, 
and  aiso  a  complete  exoianatory  glossary  of  all  the  unusual  words  or  ))hra';es  occui- 
tng  in  his  .vorks,  making  one  Handsome  Quarto  Volume,  Bound  in  the  best  En^'-*^ 
Oc  th  with  artistic  designs  in  Black  and  Gold  on  Back  and  Side.     Price 

^pies  of  the  above  sent  hy  Mailj  to  anj^  addiess.   HUSiST  &  CO..  12  2  N  Eissan  Stn  S>X> 


Good  News  for  the  Little  Ones 


The  Kind  of  Books  Boys  and  Girls  Want  to  Have. 


SOMETHING  TO  MAKE  HOME  HAPPY 


RARE  TREAT  FOR  THE  JUVENILE? 


^RFTTY  STORIES- 
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Boys  and  Girls  Story  Book. 

By  "COUSIN  VIkGINIA." 

"Tiis,  although  a  new  book,  is  full  of  the  true  home-like  spirit  that  filled  the  stc;-? 
»  r--  s  of  our  childhood.  The  Coys  and  Girls  Story  Book  is  crammed  with  the  most 
'' eMifhtiul  tales  that  faiicy  ever  painted.  Boys  and  Girls,  as  well  as  all  kinds  o( 
jMnning  and  interesting  animals,  figure  in  the  different  chapters.    What  rare,  sea- 

I  ned  humor,  is  crowded  into  "The  Dog's  Story,"  "The  Experience  of  a  Chicken 
/  one,"  "The  Bat's  Story,"  "The  Sunbeam's  Story,"  "The  Rat's  Family,"  "Jack's 

.ircus,''  "How  the  Canary  Bird  Caught  Cold,"  and,  indeed,  every  page  is  alive 
Mth  innocent  fun  and  frolic.  Almost  every  sentence  brings  a  happy  smile,  except 
rthere  occasionally  a  sweet,  tendei  sentiment  makes  a  few  precious  tears  drop  into 
jne  nrctty  dimples. 

.-•e  children  that  get  this  beautiful  Book  for  their  holiday  gift,  will  bea',i 
the  happier  and  better  for  it.  One  large  elegantly  printed  12  mo.  vol..  cloth,  vitt 
a  superbly  designed  and  engraved  cover  in  black  and  gold,  illustrations.  Sent  cr 
nwil.ri'"      •-■3  on  receipt  of  price,  $1.25 


ivierry's  Games  and  Puzzles. 

The  prettiest  garden  is  not  more  full  of  Flowers,  than  is  this  book  of  Pictuv-ir 
t£i\  Stories.  And  Such  Plcturesl  all  full  of  life  and  fun;  and  Suck  S/orui.'  f.iir' 
bi  ilin-Tf  over  with  interest.  Such  a  lot  of  Caincs  and  Puzzles^  too,  as  will  keep  3 
home  circle  pi<r:isantly  perplexed  for  hours,  except  when  loud  laughter  bicaks  (ortl 
us'jmc  Hllle  wise  head  solves  the  intricate  riddles.  'Tis  such  a  book  as  this  iha^ 
keep!,  the  young  folks,  well  pleased,  in-doors  during  the  longstormy  win'"'"Vhts 

Richly  bound  in  cloth,  black  and  gold.    Price  $1.!45 


SG 


THF  lion*-'- 
SOUTHERN  B6<f  parking  W\"  0095-1388 


80m-8,'66(F6 


*^™T205  00033  5644 


